By Clodagh on February 29, 2012
In the next several days, you’ll find the continuation of our series Men and Their Glasses; click on Boutiques for a unique shop, and City Guides for a stunning exhibition. Click and stay with Eyestylist -keeping you well informed.
For February, Eyestylist focuses on men’s glasses featuring exclusive handmade labels, respected for style and expression, from independent creators. Also in this edition – this unique leap-year month – designers share their take on trends for men, and predictions for men’s frame collections. In Reviews, you’ll discover exciting men’s designer frames, and in Boutiques, where to buy them. Our Designer of the Month is a talented creator from Sweden.. JG
Posted in Home, Intro
By Clodagh on February 29, 2012
Tom Davies – TD Tom Davies, London, England
29th February 2012 “When designing men’s eyewear, there are obvious differences in size. Women are buying more masculine styles, but through my couture service, they are applying some basics to make them fit better. When I design for men, I think about the stability of the frame. I find that (no surprises) men treat their frames badly and certain constructions are just not suitable for men. In terms of shape, men go for flatter tops and more geometric lines. Anything that squares up the jaw and make us look more rugged is great. I would say that quality is now important to men, more than before. Overall, we are still miles behind women when it comes to brands and fashion, but it gets closer each year.
Masterful Elegance by Tom Davies
Interest in vintage depends on the man and the country. Overall, I’d say that the preference for vintage is stronger in women, but that seems mainly because men are still buying metal frames – vintage is more often about engineered design. In my collection, titanium styles are building momentum. My favourite men’s wear designer is Paul Smith – for his details and quality.” www.tdtomdavies.com JG
Posted in Category header, Design and Inspiration, Home, Uncategorized
By Clodagh on February 28, 2012
Daniel Benner – Benner Eyewear, Germany
28th February 2012 “Men’s frames must not be as playful and colourful as women’s. For men, more straight and clean lines are needed. Designing women’s frames allows more creativity. Absolutely, men are more aware of fashion, brands, and quality now. I feel that men are as interested in vintage as women – there is no difference between men and women requesting vintage or classic styles.
Holey - designed by Daniel Benner - which he wears in the photo above
Men are still not as daring with colour as women. Using vibrant colour for men is still difficult. I think men’s frames will never be very colourful, but this is also good as it is a challenge for eyewear designers to create something original, and special, without using much colour, but other design elements. For my personal clothing designer favourites, I like how Desigual followed their very colourful and great women’s collection with a men’s collection, that is original but wearable. Using more patterns than colour, it’s still out of the box, without using too much vibrancy”. www.benner-eyewear.com JG
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By Clodagh on February 27, 2012
Best looks for Spring: softer shapes for men
27th February 2012 With so many great styles coming out for the Spring, and some exciting shapes that show a new approach to the most familiar men’s designs, we have picked some favourites as part of this month’s special edition. These styles express a new mood, with more curves and gentle preppy styling; there are some nice aviator specs out there, and some deconstructed classics, plus frames in beautiful natural materials such as wood. Pictured above, Kilsgaard Eyewear, www.kilsgaard-eyewear.com
Augusto by Res/Rei
The aviator specs “Augusto” by Res/Rei feature an open bridge. Res/Rei is a relatively new, quality-focused Italian label, specialising in handmade frames made by artisans, some of whom have worked in the field for over 30 years. Available in London at www.mcclintock-eyewear.co.uk who are fans of the quality and design details offered in the collection. www.resrei.com
Leisure Society’s model Harvard (below) is a preppy style designed as a unisex frame which merges modern with classic aesthetics; this is a variation of the shape originated from a style issued to troops by the army in World War II. The model is made from titanium plated in 12k, 18k, or 24k gold combined with Japanese acetate and includes a special hidden spring hinge. www.leisure-society.com
Harvard by Leisure Society
MOD. 302 by W-Eye, designed by Matteo Ragni, offers classic design with its rectangular shape that has soft, contoured lines. This frame can be produced as sunglasses or spectacles and comes in a variety of woods, pictured here in the light grainy ‘Sapelli’. A very smart idea.
MOD. 302, W-Eye
W-Eye is an Italian company producing hand-finished wooden eyewear. For more information visit www.w-eye.it CN
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By Clodagh on February 25, 2012
Bold and Beautiful from Face à Face Paris
25th February 2012 Graphic, technical, sleek and bold, fashionably sums up this handsome men’s design from Face à Face Paris. In grey and blue acetates, Clark is ideal for men who desire stylish, distinctive glasses, while at the same time, an expression of classicism. The colour blue, and its many variations, is a timely trend for women – it also has impact on men’s fashion. Handmade in France, the details and finishing are superb. www.faceaface-paris.com JG
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By Clodagh on February 24, 2012
Graz Mulcahy, Australia
23rd February 2012 “The biggest difference – I think – between designing eyewear for men and women is the fit – women have smaller heads on average than men. I also think it is harder to design for men – they won’t wear big oversized frames, and obviously not cat eye styles. I am broadly speaking of course. But men have a limited boundary in what they will wear it seems. You have to make it fit right, and make it simple and cool. I guess it’s the same in clothing. I’ve lost some of my favourite jeans and t-shirts to girls ‘borrowing them’ – I can’t say I have any of their clothes in return! I think men now care more, know more, buy more and pay more attention to brands, fashion and quality. However, I think that the collective consciousness of the world – men and women – are yearning for a better experience – people want a quality of experience in everything they do, as they now have more choice than ever.
K.M.C. Sunglasses by Graz
For vintage eyewear, I think men are even more interested than women – I think I see two men to one women sporting a well kept pair of vintage frames. Ninety percent of the vintage eyewear collectors I know are men. I only wear grey, so I have a limited choice every season for clothing, and it keeps me buying many brands. I love Margeila, I only wear Common Projects shoes, and really like Vanishing Elephant. I only notice the trends once they are here – or passed. I somehow manage to stay relevant in my design, just by nature”. www.grazmulcahy.com JG
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By Clodagh on February 23, 2012
Fabian Hofmann, Eyewear Designer, Berlin, Germany
23rd February 2012 “When I look at the anatomical side in designing men’s eyewear, men tend to have wide nose bridges. I’ve given up labelling a style purely male or female; maybe it’s the no-frills approach that I prefer. I think of design in terms of a process, a story that I tell. The actual shapes are a consequence of that thinking. I would definitely say that men are more aware of brands, quality and fashion. Wouldn’t you agree that men are even more interested in vintage than women? Men looked fabulous in the fifties and sixties. Who doesn’t want to look like Steve McQueen nowadays? It may sound banal, but difficult times tend to bend our view towards the past, and that’s where vintage comes from. We are made to believe that originals from the past, or even just the lifestyle of a certain past era, stand for stability and safeness.
Amagansett by Fabian Hofmann for Whiteout & Glare
Yes, men are definitely more daring with colour now. I live in Berlin and one thing I observe is that men here tend to go for solid colours, not garish ‘in your face fashion show colour blockings’. I don’t have a favourite men’s clothing designer – most of my pieces are pretty nondescript or plain classic. Good quality tends to have a longer life span. Good design always have a portion of the unexpected – but it has the advantage to interest people. that is a risk a designer must take every time he starts a new project.” www.whiteout-glare.com JG
Photo of Fabian Hofmann by Gilles Stüssi
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By Clodagh on February 22, 2012
Titanium Elegance from Lindberg
22nd February 2012 The Danish company’s newest design features lightweight titanium, superbly crafted, that successfully merges aesthetics – functionality, technology, quality, beauty and style. This design, in particular, gives the wearer a feeling of confidence and well-being, with its classic form, interpreted with subtle modernity. The distinctive temple detail adds to the beauty and craftsmanship of the design. www.lindberg.com JG
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By Clodagh on February 20, 2012
Ciro Tugnoli, Blue Magic Eye, Italy
21st February 2012 “There are definitely differences between designing eyewear for men and for women. Guya (my design partner) and I have always found it easier to create glasses for women, but I cannot forget that our best-selling model is a pair of glasses with a more masculine connotation. It’s not easy to design an original and outgoing shape for a man. I find more elements to work with when I think of a female style. Men are now more aware of fashion, brands and quality, including fitness or beauty products. In general, men are more attentive to their own global image, presentation or look – although I think men are less brand addicted than women.
Timeless Classic - Tortoise Frames by Blue Magic Eye
Vintage has permeated fashion in all its aspects. Vintage, dandy, the beautiful and the damned, or Steve McQueen styles have always been sources of great inspiration in men’s styles. Traditional colours are still popular for men – black, brown, honey, Havana, but on the temples you can dare a little more with orange, red, blue and yellow. We’ve had success using double layer acetate – soft colour outside and fluorescent or bright inside. My favourite men’s designer is Paul Smith, but I’m quite conservative in clothing.” www.bluemagiceye.com JG
Photo of Ciro Tugnoli: Gilles Stüssi
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