By Clodagh on April 19, 2012
Kings of Past
19th April 2012 Last month I had the opportunity to meet with Kings of Past for the first time….Sebastien showed me a small selection of their latest pieces, some of which we are publishing here. I have also talked to Musadik Rajani, an expert on vintage eyewear and one of the principals of Kings of Past, the vintage eyewear retailer. Musadik has shared his insights here into this special world of glasses….and over the last weeks he has given me a really good understanding of the beauty and quality of some of the best vintage eyewear (image above, Emmanuelle Khanh sunglasses at www.kingsofpast.com).
Why is vintage so desirable? I believe fashion is always inspired by the past. The past sets a precedent for the future to follow. And ‘vintage’ is a very loose term used to describe the past. In eyewear specifically, the past is very interesting because all the designs were original. Eyewear as a mainstream fashion accessory is a 30-40 year old concept, so the eyewear from that era is largely considered to be original in design. In today’s tech-savvy world, people are really looking for originality and design. A simple branded logo on a mass produced eyeglass or sunglass is not enough.
Vintage Persol from Kings of Past
Do you work with celebrities? Why do they choose rare vintage?
We work with many celebrities either directly or through many of our accounts. Celebrities are constantly being photographed, and this drives a greater desire for them to look and be different. They choose Kings of Past vintage eyewear because of the authenticity, the rarity and the fact that all our eyewear is unworn. We work with anyone who has a genuine appreciation for fine and unique eyewear.
Vintage Killy frame from Kings of Past
Which are your favourite vintage pieces this year? This is very difficult. I have many many favourites for different reasons. The Jean Claude Killy sunglasses (pictured above) are a favourite because of the incredible details…the hollowed carbon fibre temples, ‘wishbone’ hinges, folding temple tips, shocks in the bridge, and the lenses. I also like our vintage Ralph Lauren pieces with acetate fronts and detail engraved metal, and the Cazals are a favourite because of their outrageous designs and impact on American culture. We also do very well with Alain Mikli vintage styles at the moment. Continue reading “A vintage voyage with…”
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By Clodagh on April 18, 2012
Original Penguin
18th April 2012 Original Penguin was one of the first companies to understand the social and fashion changes taking place in America in the 1950′s. Personal freedom and personal taste coincided with the birth of Original Penguin. The buttoned-up formality of the 1940′s was gone, relaxation was the new mantra, and looking swell while you were at it. At this juncture, Original Penguin created a polo shirt that became a classic – trendy, smart and affordable. The Original Penguin polo (followed by other fashion items) emerged as the era’s most popular shirt – suburbanites to the Las Vegas Rat Pack – were seen wearing it – and the polo became the ‘new uniform’ – making everyman feel like Frank Sinatra – cool, confident, moving and shaking. The above photo features The Doyle – in oh-so-vintage-crystal with black.
The Bernard Sun - Original Penguin Eyewear Collection 2012
Original Penguin Eyewear is a fantastic mix of retro styling, a trifle geeky, with a bit of chic, and a whole lot of cool. The frames express high-style vintage inspiration, and they are a favourite with both men and women. The same traits that so enamoured people with the Original Penguin concept, is beautifully translated into the eyewear. The Rat Pack would love it! www.originalpenguin.com www.kenmarkoptical.com JG
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By Clodagh on April 17, 2012
17th April 2012 These 1960s larger-than-life styles Koko and Fuz, pictured above, are by Oliver Goldsmith, and they are very much still a feature of the present Oliver Goldsmith collections in this pristine stand-out white, a colour Audrey Hepburn wore so well (in Two for a Road). It’s statement vintage styling at its best – big squares and rounds are a perfect choice as we go into spring/summer and much is owed to Oliver Goldsmith for this and many more 1960s trends in sunwear that happily live on. Square, by the way, is fighting its way back in while everyone talks about the round styles…. I expect it to grow and grow as an important, characterful trend for 2013….
I have visited the Oliver Goldsmith store in Notting Hill on a number of occasions – it is full of treasures, new and vintage, by the Goldsmith family – now also including Claire Goldsmith’s label Legacy. This is also where you can have a bespoke sunglass made up should you wish to see the full vintage collection and have one of the designs re-created. The shop is around the corner from colourful Portobello Road and near some fine cafes, delis and restaurants. One of London’s finest eyewear emporiums…CN
Oliver Goldsmith, 15 All Saints Road, Notting Hill, London W11 1HA www.olivergoldsmith.com
Fuz by Oliver Goldsmith
Koko by Oliver Goldsmith
Image (top): Front cover, Vanity Fair, May 1965, provided courtesy of Claire Goldsmith, Oliver Goldsmith.
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By Clodagh on April 16, 2012
Architectural Optical Gem Opens in Paris
16th April 2012 La Galerie de Lunettes is a delightful optical boutique find in the trendy Canal St. Martin area. Opened just two months ago, knowledgeable and charming opticians Marie-Charlotte and Jessica offer clients a warm welcome to the architecturally pleasing shop. The artistically thought out interior was created by the Parisian firm Dumazer-Lafallisee (www.dumazer-lafallisse.com), owned by Marie-Charlotte’s sister, so La Galerie is very much a family affair. Smooth, quality maple wood enhances the airy feeling of the boutique. There is a ‘gallery of mirrors’ on one wall – a beautiful collection of various shaped mirrors, found in markets and antique shops. A cornucopia of the most sought after designer frames are featured: LGR, Thierry Lasry, Prism, Graz, Lunettes Kollektion, Garrett Leight, l.a. eyeworks, Waiting for the Sun, and more. The very newest styles from these collections are available, and the selection is varied and vast. La Galerie de Lunettes is the perfect destination for personalised optical service, haute-style, and a charming atmosphere. www.lagaleriedelunettes.com JG
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By Clodagh on April 16, 2012
RES/REI, Italy
16th April 2012 The frame company Res/Rei, a small producer of handmade frames with a lovely simplicity and elegance, have launched a Limited Edition which caught my eye last month. The company has sourced acetate from the 1980s and 1990s to produce the ten colour sets in the collection, which it says, have been flying off the shelves….they are super limited, given the small amount of patterned vintage acetate found. Some of the frames are one-offs, otherwise they are produced in tiny batches of 3 or 4.
Limited Edition Set VI
The firm is by no means the first to use materials from the past in its present lines, but it has done it with clever results. I have seen some other stunning designs using vintage materials at a number of labels this year, including great ones by Thierry Lasry and Robert Marc. I expect there are more out there I haven’t seen, any suggestions? www.resrei.com CN
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By Clodagh on April 14, 2012
14th April 2012 Dots are very much in fashion as the vintage revival revs up for summer and there are good examples to be found in frames, including some that were brought to my attention by Iris et Prunelle L’Opticien Lunetier, by Moschino. The French accessory specialists Valrose have this pretty polka dot line which I saw in Munich earlier in the year. This is a purse-style case for the finest catseye or butterfly. Valrose also produce brightly coloured felt cases which have always caught my eye; view this brightly themed collection in full at www.valrose.net CN
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By Clodagh on April 13, 2012
Michaela Kühn, Berlin Fashion Film Maker
13th April 2012 “I’ve been interested in vintage since I was a little girl. During the late 1970′s and 1980′s, I was very impressed with old films from the 1930′s to the 60′s. So in effect, it was much more interesting for me to check out the old dresses and coats of my grandmother’s wardrobe, than it was to buy moon washed jeans and adidas basketball sneakers. Vintage appeals because I like the classical look, to show the waist and look feminine. The quality of most pieces I have is fantastic. On one hand, it is charming to know that all my vintage stuff tells stories about the past. On the other hand, I feel much better wearing used clothes and have old furniture, than to be part of an unfair industry of big businesses. I shop for Vintage everywhere I go on my journeys – flea markets, stores and ebay. My favourite shops in Berlin are cache coeur, and Lunettes Selection (www.lunettes-selection.de). Almost every piece of furniture I have is from flea markets or shops. I restore most pieces myself. And here we are at the same point: the quality is ten times better than all the new stuff. My favourite vintage furniture piece is a Finnish teak dining table from the 1950′s, from Berlin Magasin (www.magasin-berlin.de) and my 1940′s sunglasses from Lunettes Selection. The other favourite piece is my black silk-velvet 1920′s coat with art-deco lining. I found this in Berlin at cache coeur.” (www.cachecoeur.de) JG
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By Clodagh on April 12, 2012
A 3-day vintage eyewear ‘pop-up’ shop, Bond 07 by Selima, New York
12th April 2012 Opening today for three days is this special opportunity to buy vintage eyewear at New York’s Bond 07 by Selima. The 500 or so unworn frames have been sourced in London by Kajal, a Columbia business school student who is set to launch her own eyewear company this year. Carefully curated with Selima Salaun, founder of Selima Optique, who will host the special pop-up shop, the collection includes a variety of spectacles and sunglass styles by brands like Lacroix (top left), Dior (top right), Hugo Boss, Ferre (below left, and definitely my favourite amongst these four great samples) and Cazal (below right), with models for men and women. Favourite decades for retro fashion such as the 1950s and the 1970s are well represented. Prices start at an affordable $150.
“Inspired by her family’s entrepreneurial journey in eyewear, Kajal spent her younger years visiting eyewear shows throughout Europe and developed an affinity for the artisanal design of vintage pieces. We believe there is a real appreciation for vintage fashion in New York and a customer who isn’t afraid to express himself or herself by wearing the bold and vibrant designs of the vintage era.”
Selima Optique / Bond 07 Showroom, 7 Bond Street, NYC, NY 10012 www.selimaoptique.com CN
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By Clodagh on April 11, 2012
Derome Brenner 9898
11th April 2012 Play it again…..this sleek retro frame is homage to beauty, craftsmanship and lasting style. Derome Brenner frames are crafted in acetate made from wood and cotton, and the designs require over sixty different hand techniques to achieve the quality, refinement, and exclusivity found in each frame. The design above is smooth black acetate in a sculptural shape, and further accentuates its individuality with an open nose bridge. The arty necklace and bracelet is from the Derome Brenner accessory collection. This Friday, 13 April, Xavier Derome will be the guest of honour at Gogosha Optique in Silver Lake, California. If you are fortunate enough to be in the region, pop into the boutique for a visit from 4PM to 9PM, with this delightful French artisan and eyewear creator. www.deromebrenner.com www.gogosha.com JG
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