New Perspectives

Eyestylist launches the New Year anticipating excitement and innovations in eyewear and accessories during 2014. On the 1st of each month, click on all our departments – Reviews, Boutiques, Designer of the Month and City Guides for creative and cultural inspiration. We post regularly throughout the month, bringing you international updates on luxurious, finely crafted specs and sunglasses, fashion and accessories, plus interesting style news and events. We wish all our readers and sponsors a joyous, healthy and creative New Year!

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The Elegance and Beauty of Natural Horn

Sophisticated and Subtle Eyewear Excellence

30th January 2014 Men need look no further than the elegance and natural beauty of horn to make a distinct eyewear style statement. The richness and colour harmony of this luxurious material has fascinated eyewear creators since Horn was first used for frames in Germany in the 16th Century. Here are three superb examples that show the illustrious virtues of horn. Nature, conservation, and the appreciation of resources are in the genes of the Rolf Team, as they develop and produce amazing frames in their Tyrol atelier. Their horn creations are sculptural beauties elegantly crafted with finesse and precision. Majestic (above) is Pure Horn, created without metal or other additional materials. Horn is a highly sensitive natural product, and exactitude in its process is an absolute must. Pure Horn – pure perfection. www.rolf-spectacles.com


 Eyewear Art in Horn by Sven Götti

Eyewear Art in Horn by Sven Götti

Working in beautiful, natural materials has always been keynote for Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland. When he started designing, his first frames were crafted in Horn. Blaze (above) is among the latest designs – a suave, gracious shape that artfully illustrates the gorgeous shadings and lovely, natural lustre that are inherent in horn. www.gotti.ch

 

Refined handcrafted horn by Amaury
Refined handcrafted horn by Amaury

Parisian based Amaury Cagniard is a newcomer to frame design, and he enjoys working in authentic materials – Horn being a special favourite. This contemporary two-tone handcrafted Horn frame (above Style AAE Horn) with its refined lines, expresses Amaury’s desire for details and uniqueness. www.amaury.eu.com JG

Scoop International, London

Exciting fashion + accessory labels, a stunning trade show!

28th January 2014 With a line up of British and international brands in womenswear and accessories, both established and emerging, London’s fashion trade show Scoop has become a must for buyers across the country. The event last week, held at the prestigious Saatchi Gallery and Phillips, was of particular interest to Eyestylist this year as we delve further into the world of emerging labels and creative independent brands in accessories and fashion – and there were plenty.

Personal highlights included meeting designer Ali Mapletoft at Age of Reason, the British luxury scarf label and big favourite here – www.age-of-reason-studios.com, and newcomer Anja Mury of the eponymous handbag label – www.mury.co.uk – these bags are inspired by the urban environment blending luxurious materials and cutting-edge design.

Other brands we spotted who we will continue to keep an eye on were jewellery designers, Kat & Bee – www.katandbee.com, Pearl & Queenie from Hastings, www.pearlandqueenie.com, Alexia Parmigiani, designer of luxury scarves – www.alexiafashion.co.uk (report coming shortly), Vanessa Tugendhaft Joaillerie – www.vanessa-tugendhaft.com – from Belgium, and London based jewellery brand, Pink Powder – www.pinkpowder.com.

Age of Reason - Surrender Pink Ship
Age of Reason – I Will Never Surrender Pink Ship Silk Scarf

For more on Age of Reason, see: http://www.eyestylist.com/2013/07/a-favourite-new-season-accessory/ For information on Scoop London (next showing from 13-15th July 2014), visit www.scoop-international.com. We’d like to see some sunglasses collections there in July. CN

Dare to be Different!

Men’s Eyewear Fashion Alert!

24th January 2014 Little by little, men are choosing to be more creative with their clothing, accessories and eyewear. They are discovering that they can experiment with new shapes and colours, and still feel very comfortable. Style and flair keynote this fine men’s frame (above) by Netherlands-based designer Susanne Klemm for Suzy Glam. SG Metropolis is crafted with the skilled sculpturing and bevelled details that are unique to Suzy Glam designs. Great colour too – Cedar – neutral with a touch of edginess. www.suzyglam.com 

Wow factor! Günther N by ic! berlin
Wow factor! Günther N by ic! berlin

Ralph Anderl at ic!berlin has always dared to be different. His bold designs reflect Ralph’s love of modernity and technology. His latest innovation is to bring colour and sparkle to stainless steel – shown in Günther N (above). The intricate technical process is possible by applying an extra thin layer of crystals to the stainless steel, so there is a beautiful sheen that won’t tarnish or scratch. Paired with electric blue lenses, the result is striking! www.ic-berlin.de JG

Elsa Schiaparelli Auction at Christie’s Paris

Personal Collection of Legendary Designer in Landmark Sale

20th January 2014 The fashion luminary Madame Elsa Schiaparelli was at the heart of avant-garde ideas in 1930’s Paris. She was a collector, collaborator, friend and patron to many leading artists of the day – from Salvador Dali and Man Ray to Cocteau and Diego Giacometti. Icons of the Golden Age of Hollywood loved her designs – Marlene Dietrich was a client. The sale includes a dynamic combination of Schiaparelli’s fashion designs, as well as furniture, fine art and decorative arts. The vast collection – 180 lots are included in the sale – has passed by descent to Elsa Schiaparelli’s granddaughter, the model and actress Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson. “My grandmother was an inspiration and always has been, and now I think it’s very important for younger generations to know who she was, to have a taste of that wonderful world that she lived in, that she created, that she left behind her,” says Marisa, “and I think my grandmother’s personal belongings will inspire future generations; this is an extraordinary and fascinating legacy.”

Giacometti  Lamp in Elsa Schiaparelli Sale at Christie's Paris
Giacometti Lamp in Elsa Schiaparelli Sale at Christie’s Paris

The diverse collection presents a veritable feast of fashion, artworks and objects that reflect their owner’s significant role as a taste-maker.Elsa Schiaparelli loved to entertain in her homes in Paris and Tunisia – the latter location frequently inspired her fashion collections. Yves Saint Laurent said: “Madame Elsa Schiaparelli was incomparable. There is no equivalent to be found. Her imagination knew no bounds.” The Personal Collection of Elsa Schiaparelli takes place at Christie’s in Paris on Thursday 23rd January. This very personal collection captures the essence of Schiaparelli’s unique style and vision. The full pre-sale exhibition is on view at  Christie’s Paris, 9 Avenue Matignon through 22nd January. For more details visit www.christies.com JG

Top photo:’Bucking Bronco’ intricately beaded waistcoat inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1940’s trip to Texas. Both photos courtesy of Christie’s Images Limited 2014

 

RVS by V. launches collaboration

with New York’s a-morir

21st January 2014 Turkish independent label RVS by V. by Vidal Erkohen and luxury designer Kerin Rose Gold of a-morir have joined forces to produce an exotic Limited Edition Luxury Collection.

Vidal Erkohen spoke to Eyestylist: “This is the first of several collaborations we plan with Kerin Rose. Included in this first launch are existing RVS classics embellished in the luxurious a-morir style (above), and new designs made with Mazzucchelli acetate with the RVS by V. signature matte finish.”

All designs featured in this first collaborative series by the two eyewear labels will be released in limited editions of 100 pieces per model and sold through selective boutiques worldwide.

For more information visit www.rvsbyv.com. www.a-morir.com CN

Warren Alfie Baker

Fashion Tips from Noted Men’s Stylist

17th January 2014 Our thanks to Brent Zerger at l.a.eyeworks for introducing us to Warren Alfie Baker – celebrated men’s stylist for magazines, TV and cinema. Baker offers suggestions and insights into what well-turned out males will be wearing in fashion and eyewear.

Do you see any definitive trends for men’s fashion in 2014? “I think for spring we are going to see men being a little more adventurous with bold prints and colours. A resurgence of the bold 1970’s colours like Burnt Oranges and Yellows, with some Fuchsia pinks. Also, I have seen some great pastel coloured suiting for men that I think will be a huge trend.”

Do you think that men are paying more attention to how they dress? “For sure, there are a good percentage of men that get fashion and follow trends, but there is also probably the same percentage of men that don’t care too much. A lot of my job is about education and how to make clothes work for a particular person’s body. I still think a lot of men are scared to try something new, but that is changing…..slowly.”

Who are your favourite men’s wear designers? “OK – so I’m a huge fan of Vivienne Westwood’s tailoring. They have superb fabrics and colours, not for everyone, but I love her designs. I love Ports 1961 – again great fabric choices with classic cuts. I love Sandro too, simple but super chic.”

What should men look for when selecting eyewear? “When I select glasses for my client I look for frames that will suit their personality and style. I think frame selection is an important one to get right, as they will be the one item that people look at constantly. Look at colour, and the shape to make sure it fits the frame of your face perfectly. I have these beautiful 50’s style frames from l.a.eyeworks that are metallic gold with a beautiful design (Silverman). They are simply amazing and I can’t go anywhere without them!” www.warrenalfiebaker.com www.laeyeworks.comJG

“To See and To Be Seen”

Men’s Frames with Character and Style

14th January 2014 Coppe and Sid – creators of fine eyewear – offer suggestions for men on how to choose frames that are elegant and smart, and suit the wearer.

“Think about your lifestyle and needs – will I be wearing these frames in the office? home? outdoors? work? Listen to your optician for advice on size, materials and how to choose suitable products, especially when high index/progressive lenses are required. Select a design with which you are comfortable, and a colour that best suits your style. Be unique without being eccentric! Pay attention to the quality of the product and look for where it is made. Just because a brand or style is popular, does not mean that it is the best style for you…so try on a variety of frames. And be aware of good value for money – the quality of the frame, the style, design and price. Because frames are “to see and to be seen!” www.eyedesignclub.com JG

Featured frame: Wellington 03 from the Oceania Routes Collection by Coppe and Sid. Handmade in Italy in fine quality acetate and titanium.

 

The Japanese innovators

Factory 900

11th January 2014 If you haven’t seen this name already, then take a look. The super creative Factory 900 hailing from Japan have particular technical aptitude when it comes to voluminous plastic, and this translates into some out-of-the-ordinary colourful designs.

The round style with floating lens (above) fa-1111 won the Silmo d’Or in the Sunglasses Category last September, but alongside that, there are plenty of others that break the mould. Factory 900 has produced several avantgarde show pieces including a collaboration with Aoyama Kogaku and an unusual multicoloured stained glass window mask design, first launched in 2011.

fa 1120, colour 450
fa 1120, colour 450

We took a look at the label’s full collection recently, and were pleased to see a growing number of wearable styles featured throughout, including the two-tone full rim fa 1120 (above), which also comes in crystal with bright tone combinations. In 2013, the Belgian eyewear label THEO and Factory 900 created two models together – theo by Factory 900 – for more on this project visit:

http://www.eyestylist.com/2013/11/cutting-edge-collaboration/ CN

Hapter at Ottica Fontani, Florence

10th January 2014 Pitti Uomo has come round again, and there have been some eyewear brands of note in attendance. They include the award-winning Italian design label Hapter, whose frames are made from natural fibres and stainless steel.

Guests try out Hapter Eyewear
Pitti guests try Hapter Eyewear

The label’s opening event for Pitti took place in central Florence at Ottica Fontani on Wednesday – www.otticafontani.com. “We have launched our new window presentation at Ottica Fontani,” Eric Balzan, Founder at Hapter, told Eyestylist, on route to Munich, “you will see this display of our collection in top optical stores across Europe in the months ahead.” CN

New display ay Hapter
New display ay Hapter

www.hapter.it

 

British Eyewear Heritage

Artisan Eyewear Production in London

7th January 2014 London’s East End is abundant with history – from the Red Bull Inn (sadly demolished) mentioned in Charles Dickens’ Pickwick Papers, to George Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris and London. Manufacturing has been well established in The East End since the mid-18th century. So it was with anticipation that Clodagh and I made our way to a 100-plus year old building that specialises in bespoke eyewear. In 1932, Algha Works began its eyewear legacy when the entrepreneurial and then owner Max Wiseman, purchased German made optical machinery and had it shipped to London. The seeds were sown for innovative, ongoing eyewear history.

Specialist crafting at Algha Works
Specialist crafting at Algha Works

“All the machines here – built in Germany in 1921 – are still functioning today – they are antique but authentic”, says Peter Viner, Managing Director of Algha Works, who accompanied Clodagh and I on our tour, along with Jason Kirk, Business Development Director. Viner continued: “When I arrived here, it was like opening the door and there was Pandora’s box. There is a tradition of British eyewear production, and I want to see this expand, rekindle and recapture the spirit of British production. We have a small group of young people who are learning from the masters, and we want to create personalised, bespoke frames.” During the 1950’s, and several decades following, Algha was one of two suppliers who made spectacles for the NHS (National Health Service). In 1975, Algha Works made 1.5 million frames. However, new Government regulations in the 1980’s changed Algha’s fortunes, and in 1988 the brand Savile Row was born, to create individual, handmade frames, made in the Algha Works factory.

Eyewear with Distinction: Norfolk by Savile Row
Eyewear with Distinction: Norfolk by Savile Row

Nowadays, the company looks excitedly towards the future, with its superb quality frames, all bespoke, crafted from fine metals. “We use rolled gold in our designs, and each frame is hand pressed, not machined. There are 143 separate operations in each Savile Row frame”, says Viner. A new direction is to create eyewear from fabulous old acetate sheets in Algha’s collection. Keeping pace with history has seen Algha Works produce frames that were worn by John Lennon – now in The Beatles Museum in Liverpool; the designs are also a favourite of Eric Clapton; and the frames were featured in the Harry Potter movies. Algha Works and their Savile Row brand are bringing new dynamics to British eyewear manufacturing. www.algha.com JG

Islero

Rolf Spectacles

Award winning Rolf Spectacles sets the tone for superb men’s eyewear with their new frame – Islero. The Tyrolean based designers mix shale and wood in a timeless shape, expertly crafted. Featured above is Shale Black Line 40. The colour variations of shale vary from greenish-blue grey, and black grey through to yellowish, red and purple tones. Shale rocks are found predominately in Europe in Spain, France the UK Portugal and Germany. Islero was awarded the “Best of Show” at Stuttgart Hall of Frames. www.rolf-spectacles.com JG

The Gus

Original Penguin

As original as the brand name, the Gus is a striking frame in mixed materials with unusual details. The handsome matt acetate front  is further enhanced with a metal double bridge. The sides are composed of metal with an intricate cross-stitch, placed over a wood insert. It’s a stunning design for men to wear with flair and style. Available in Safari (above) black, navy and tortoise. www.kenmarkoptical.com JG

Nantucket

Lafont Paris

A vintage shape combines with a super modern material – carbon – in a striking frame by Lafont Paris. A “hammered effect” highlights the carbon, which is then accented with metal details, and acetate ends for comfort and fine fit. It is particularly smart in pewter grey – distinguished and elegant. Lafont has an imaginative, yet discreet collection of men’s frames, which are available internationally, and in their charming Paris boutiques. More information at www.lafont.com JG

Beckett

Anne & Valentin

Beckett was launched in Paris in the autumn – the name gives away the inspiration and design. A unisex style with classic intellectual overtones and a spiritual twist, the design is part of ‘Les Elegantes’, a collection that shows a new stroke of inspiration for Anne & Valentin: each model has been directly inspired by frames that have gone down in history. “Our designers worked hard to recreate classic shapes into modern, updated forms, taking advantage of the latest technologies. ‘Les Elegantes’ are the culmination of this quest : gold and silver rimmed frames, sometimes married with a chocolate brown accent, others with coal black.”

The designs are more subtly shaped than their predecessors, from the round or square pair of glasses to the beveled P3. The unexpected marriage of matte and gloss effects, and two-tone temples with Calder-style hinge, create an air of intrigue. From £308.00. www.anneetvalentin.com CN

 

Song

L.G.R.

Sleek and refined, Song combines timeless design with beautiful hand finishing, a trademark of this Italian artisan label. One of five new retro-inspired models, Song is available as an optical style or as a sunglass fitted with Zeiss G15 lenses in green – the narrow double bridge is elegant either way. 100% handmade in Italy. www.lgr-sunglasses.com CN

Stranger No.1

Adrian Marwitz

Several of today’s innovative new designers have a passion for eyewear in their DNA and family legacy. The eyewear dynasty of Adrian Marwitz began in 1919 with his grandfather. Nowadays, Adrian continues the family history with frames in Titanium – his favourite material – that are handmade in Germany. Stranger No. 1 is from Marwitz’s new collection of Urban Strangers, shown here in sophisticated matt blue – predicted to be a notable colour for 2014 – in a shape that harmoniously unites tradition and trend. www.adrianmarwitz.com JG

Alaïa Retrospective In Paris

Palais Galliera Celebrates Iconic Designer

1st January 2014 After a long period of renovation, the sumptuous Palais Galliera has re-opened in Paris with a gala retrospective of Azzedine Alaïa’s timeless designs. For decades, the Tunisian creator has been a dramatic influence on fashion. Alaïa cuts straight to the essence of each garment – the shapes he constructs are bold and creative statements in their own right, without need for further adornment.

Subline Shaping by Azzedine Alaïa
Subline Shaping by Azzedine Alaïa

The exhibition features over seventy garments – clothes that are sensual, sublime and superbly sleek. Unlike most designers, Alaïa travels little, except within his own fertile imagination and visualization. When Alaïa arrived in Paris in the 1960’s, he had the good fortune to meet two Parisian legends – the actress Arletty and the designer and author Lousie de Vilmorin. These elegant women, along with Greta Garbo, and in later years, models Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Yasmin Le Bon inspired him to make ‘garments that last’. He also likes to say: “I make clothes, women make fashion”. A Must See Exhibition!

Until January 26th www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr JG

Amaury Store – Paris

1st January 2014 Just a short stroll from several of the most notable monuments in Paris – Notre Dame, La Sorbonne, and Le Panthéon – is a new establishment creating its own distinguished legacy. Amaury is an innovative gallery – dedicated to handcrafted artisan creations. Amaury Cagniard is a young, sophisticated eyewear designer, and a connoisseur of fine quality products. In this recently opened boutique, you’ll find Amaury’s beautiful eyewear collection in horn, acetate and metal. His frames are gracefully refined, all handmade in France in the renowned Jura area.

Refined and elegant eyewear by Amaury
Refined and elegant eyewear by Amaury

In addition, the boutique offers an eclectic selection of intriguing products – including leather accessories – the leather sourced from a small producer in Florence, Italy -and  olive oil from a small grove just outside Rome. Perfume, soap, men’s hats and jumpers in luxurious materials with classic chic, and imaginative furniture from Sculptures Jeux – a French company – can also be leisurely viewed and appreciated in the 350 square metre shop. Each item is chosen with care and concern for authenticity – the same philosophy that Amaury endorses for his eyewear collection. “I make a frame design and then it evolves without force; sometimes I have a precise idea, but everything must flow, be clear and pure without eccentricity.” Just like his gallery boutique. Amaury Store 5, rue Dante 75005 Paris France For more details, visit www.amaury.eu.com JG

Men’s Eyewear Centre Stage

Sven Götti Shares Style Suggestions for Men

1st January 2014 During the month of January, Eyestylist will feature innovative frames for men from specialist designers. Several creators discuss their ideas and concepts for this important men’s accessory. We start the series with Sven Götti of Götti Switzerland.

“Glasses are one of the few accessories that men can wear. Women can put on makeup to achieve another look. Glasses can release a total make over. The most important is to feel comfortable with glasses. If a man is wearing them every day they have to procure a good feeling. Glasses support the style of a man, and his character. Götti Switzerland designs explicit men’s collections with a very clear and masculine shape. We think it’s a must that everyone can identify himself with the style of his glasses. Apart from that fact, the glasses have to be perfect on the nose, and the size of the frame needs to be correct – it has to appear harmonious with the owner’s face. When it comes to colours, for men dark tones are mostly recommended, however, lighter skin types can play with colours. Havana and black will definitely suit men with dark hair. Colours have a strong symbolic effect, and say more than a thousand words – the colour of glasses says a lot about the character of a person. Is he brave? or confident? or likes to hide in the backseat? Last but not least,: Is there something like the “perfect face for glasses?” Yes. Just as there are certain types of people who can wear a hat easily. There is a frame for everyone. Sometimes it just takes a little more effort to find the perfect choice.” www.gotti.ch JG  

Above: PINO in titanium from the Götti Switzerland Collection