beautiful glasses and sunglass designs that are the ultimate accessory, as you’ll discover in REVIEWS. China is the destination in BOUTIQUES, and the Designer of the Month is award-winning Vera Wang, who always has a sizzling pulse on fashion. In CITY GUIDES, a Paris exhibition pays homage to a 19th Century designer whose influence resonates today. Eyestylist…for inspirational eyewear and accessories.
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29th April 2015 Two hundred and forty optical boutiques from Cologne and surrounding areas plus Bonn, Frankfurt, and shops in Austria and Switzerland, experienced the Cologne show. In an airy and friendly atmosphere, opticians were able to leisurely browse to look at the speciality collections. Independent designers on hand to present their collections included Etienne Frederiks from Suzy Glam in the Netherlands, Adrian Marwitz from Germany (Etienne and Adrian in top photo) plus Jèrèmy Tarian and Lucas de Staël from France.
“We are very happy about the show,” said organisers Nathanaël Wenger and Dirk Giessmann, “this is our first show in Cologne, and we think people were waiting for something here. We’ve had positive feedback. It’s an opportunity for opticians to see high end products in this area. The atmosphere is very relaxed and people were really interested. It’s a very good start.” www.diebrillenmesse.dewww.suzyglam.comwww.adrianmarwitz.comJG
Photos: Max Gudczinski exclusively for Eyestylist.com All Rights Reserved
27th April 2015A “beauty contest” with a difference was the driving force behind Charmant’s decision to support an interactive television casting show featuring real people – regular men and women from all over the world. The aim is to encourage a more positive self-image, and change unrealistic standards that prevail in the fashion and beauty industry.
Women and men, independent of nationality, size or skin colour could register their profile via The Fashion Hero website. Judging was online and by the twelve sponsor companies, with the final held in Cancun Mexico. “As luck would have it, two of our finalists are both British,” says Louise Brunton at Charmant.
Melissa Douglas is a student from Scotland, and Carl Jones, an electrician from England. Melissa (top) was photographed in Dolce XL2064 from the elegant Line Art Collection, and Carl wears Charmant Z Titanium. The candidates were asked to give their Life Philosophy. Melissa says: “It is important for me to enjoy what I do because it will show.” For Carl, “If you believe, you will receive” is his motto. And for Charmant, their creed is to create high quality, finely crafted eyewear that promotes individual well-being and excellent comfort. The Fashion Hero is currently televised in America. www.charmant.comwww.thefashionhero.comJG
24th April 2015 Red has long been a top contender in eyewear, alongside other classic shades of black, brown and tortoise. This season sees several glam interpretations that take the colour straight into the realms of out-of-the-ordinary. The Italian label Pollipo releases Style n. 596 this month, an acetate with a red pixelated effect on front and temples. www.pollipostore.com
At Anni & Anni Shades, optical frame Laura combines an asymmetrical colour pairing of violet and red – in fine dyed natural wood. Made by hand in the label’s workshop in Ohio, this frame has a wonderfully unique shape, and attractive matte finish. www.annishades.com
In the same vein, Topas by Veronika Wildgruber combines a minimal optical shape with flat top and two-tone effect where red is used under the horn-effect browline to circle the eyes. Dramatic and memorable. Wear as an optical or with sun lenses. www.veronikawildgruber.comCN
21st April 2015 Cologne’s magnificent cathedral, its world-class museums and galleries are wonderful reasons to visit this elegant city. Another world-class event takes place this weekend in Cologne – 25th and 26th April – when independent eyewear designers present their collections at Hall of Frames on the Rhine River at Dock One. Among those participating is Fabian Hoffmann at Coblens, who will show his stylish new collection, Lunapark. The design inspiration is the mystical surrounding of the Lunapark pleasure ground that was an important attraction in Berlin during the 1920’s. The graceful character of “Die Shimmytreppe” (above) is highlighted with etched scores on the frame front. www.coblens.com
Lafont Paris will introduce their Autumn/Winter 2015 collections for men, women and children in Cologne. Fabulous colourations in the Réédition range include this striking acetate design in Blue Tortoise (above). Craftsmanship, fine details and contemporary styling characterise all Lafont frames. www.lafont.com
Jérémy Tarian presents his statement collection, including the spot-on trend Osaka (above) in chic blue and black with coloured lenses. All Tarian frames are handcrafted in France with immaculate details. www.jeremytarian.com
ONKEL FERDI from Germany will exhibit their new collection at Die Brillenmesse. Intricate frame processes include techniques that were important in the past, and revived today, to ensure individuality and top-notch quality. ONKEL FERDI Mattes (above) acquire an ultra-smooth surface with sandblasting. www.onkelferdi.de Additional information at www.diebrillenmesse.deJG
19th April 2015 The work of Canadian War Artist, Fashion Illustrator and Modern Painter Irwin ‘Bud’ Crosthwait (1914 – 1981) with go on sale at a special exhibition in London by GRAY M.C.A., later in the year. The exhibition will include more than 60 original works from private collections: War Art, Fashion Illustration & Modern Art with prices ranging from £350 to £10,000.
Coinciding with London Fashion Week (SS16), the exhibition will highlight Crosthwait’s work as one of Paris’s acclaimed Fashion Illustrators, commissioned by publications including Harpers Bazaar, Vogue, Elle, Jardin Des Modes, Herald Tribune, New York Times & Femina and designers Givenchy, Dior, Marc Vaughan, Pucci, Courrèges & Yves St Laurent. Above: Irwin Crosthwait 1977 St Emica Watercolour (£1,500).
Gallery 8, 8 Duke Street, St James’s, London SW1. From 17th to 22nd September 2015. www.graymca.co.ukCN
17th April 2015Slender, superbly light frames are among the cool and confident designs captivating spectacle wearers. Frames with a new perspective in colour nuances and shape bring fresh appeal to the designs. Spectacle Eyeworks in Canada blends modern and modish in the latest additions to the RETRO line with Sandra (above) in acetate with beautiful blue tonalities. “Dimension, not distraction,” says designer Mehran Baghaie. www.spec-eyeworks.com
Think Thin is the motto at Götti Switzerland. Lightness and shape perfection highlight wafer-thin frames that include Sunny in hand-polished purple acetate. Sunny especially emphasizes feminine contours with the sleek, dashing shape. www.gotti.ch
Winona by Orgreen makes a dazzling style statement in Emerald Green in a super-slender silhouette. The shape is generous in scale, but light as a feather. www.orgreenoptics.comJG
15th April 2015 Alongside the trend for metallic touches in accessories and fashion, metal frames are making a smart statement for the warmer season with sleek refined styling in evidence at the top end of the spectacle spectrum.
Veronika Wildgruber is an interior and product designer with a fascination for materials. She describes her own work as “simple and surprising”, a phrase that sums up her frames. The current collection – made entirely in Italy and France, includes metals used in unexpected ways, such as model Empty, where “empty space” defines the volume and produces a light, attractive filigree effect. www.veronikawildgruber.com/eyewear
A favourite classic themed sunglass shape this season, model Pratt by Salt Optics shows similar artistry in metal. This luxurious lust-worthy aviator – pictured in Honey Gold, is produced in Titanium/Beta Titanium in Japan and exhibits all the attention to detail and luxury finishing of a fine piece of handcrafted sunwear. Model Pratt is fitted with Polarized CR39 “Lovers Soul” Gradient lenses. Full details at www.saltoptics.comCN
13th April 2015Beautiful designs and details enrich optical frames, with a wonderful selection of styles, shapes and colours. Bold and dramatic is the theme for Ainjali Fine at Finest Seven (above), wearing Style 04 in black with a distinguished gold brow bar. www.finestseven.com
Travel is the inspiration for the elegant new Bridges Collection from Coppe & Sid. Lagoon blue acetate – Style VCE Venezia – transports the wearer to dreamy destinations, with handcrafting and luxurious details. www.eyedesignclub.com
Silhouette’s latest collection for men includes handsome frames that are ultra light – including the SPX Illusion – a true modern classic in tortoiseshell. www.silhouette.comJG
8th April 2015 Enhance your golf game with ic! berlin’s cutting-edge eyewear for the golf course. An exciting collaboration with ic! berlin and OptiSwiss, a subsidiary of Carl Zeiss AG, The Green Collection combines lightweight, unbreakable eyewear and brings superior functionality to the golf course. Top photo:U9 Guentzelstrasse in black with photo-copper mirrored lenses.
The photochromic lenses enhance the white balance and contrast of greens. The frames have been specifically developed for golf to help follow the ball through the air, and find the break on the green. The lenses adapt with the sun and UV exposure, to improve lighting conditions and enhance the depth of field perception.
Improve your chances for a Grand Slam with ic! berlin’s striking new Green Collection – available in electric green, pearl and black — all with a distinctive green clip. www.ic-berlin.deJG
Lucia Pasin launched her stunning new collection in Milan – frames that are colourful and inspiring. Luxurious flowers blossom on cellulose acetate – an ecological raw material – with creative textures, powerful shapes, and fresh characteristics. Rose Flowers+Geometry Veruschka highlights care for details, and Pasin’s intuitive understanding for designs that are elegant, feminine and strong. “My frames are indeed for a woman who knows the pleasure of ornament,” says the Italian designer. More details at www.lupastudio.itJG
The acclaimed Mexican painter Frida Kahlo is a source of inspiration for Spectacle Eyeworks in Canada. Frida (above) comes with five different colours of Brow pieces, originally inspired by Kahlo’s quote: “Nothing is absolute, everything changes, everything moves, everything revolutionizes…” Frida represents agility and change with the varied colour “brow pieces.” www.spec-eyeworks.comJG
The Alium S 1 is the latest addition in this line of pure lightweight aluminium designs by the French eyewear design company. Impressively, the new Alium styles are 25% thinner than previous designs and each one features miniature air vents at the temple – invisible when worn, but technically exciting as there is no soldering – this creates a flex hinge that’s strong and durable. The Alium frames come in fantastic eye-popping shades as well as more conservative tones with bright inner linings. A perfect balance of design tech and modern fashionable styling, and one of our highlights at the shows this year. www.faceaface-paris.comCN
An artistic air permeates Jono Hennessy’s lovely collection of Watercolour Sheers. Luminous acetate in soft spring green highlights a design with contemporary flair, and a gentle sculptured shape with extended temple details. Watercolour Sheers also include see-through tones of blue, tortoiseshell and a smooth chocolate brown. More information on the latest Jono Hennessy collections at www.jonohennessy.comJG
The German designer has launched his latest collection featuring streamlined, sleek frames in sophisticated colours. “The idea was to design a simple frame with a modern shape, and very high quality,” says Marwitz, “sometimes it is enough to make a good frame with less details.” The new Cazual range in fine titanium is clean and classical, and available in deep purple (above) olive green, pewter grey and rich chocolate. www.adrianmarwitz.comJG
1st April 2015Nowadays, the fine art of eyewear is admirably manifested in distinguished materials with impressive design. Get set for spring and summer with LINDBERG’S distinctive collection of beautiful sunglasses, with many innovative details. Light, flexible, comfortable and durable Titanium is dramatically sculpted into style 8307 (above) – a stunning style statement from LINDBERG Sun. www.lindberg.com
Fashion and costume designer Tim Van Steenbergen is inspired by “la femme fatale” – film noir from Hollywood Classics – with his sunglass collection for theo in Belgium. Angel Diane celebrates the film Angel Face, the 1950’s film directed by Otto Preminger. Big, glamorous and colourful, Angel Diane combines glossy acetate with matte details in rich, vivid green. www.theo.be
Silhouette has been awarded the prestigious Red Dot Design Award for their innovative frames – Titan One – crafted from one-piece of Titanium. The frames have been described as ‘State of the Art’ and ‘An impressive piece of design engineering.’ The Titan One is crafted in Austria, and the design was praised for its combination of quality materials, exemplary aesthetic design, and hand-finished precision. The Titan One masterpiece involves 170 steps to create the unique design. Above: Style 4481. www.silhouette.comJG
Vera Wang creations are the epitome of chic and contemporary fashion. The celebrated designer dresses an international clientele of sophisticated women who appreciate her understated styling in beautiful fabrics. Frames are also a passion for Vera Wang, and in an exclusive interview with Eyestylist, she shares her thoughts on fashion and eyewear.
“I’m always excited about eyewear – it can change the way you look; it’s like wearing a new cosmetic, and can change your whole mood. Eyewear is the biggest accessory, and eye protection is so valuable against sun levels. I’m into studying lens making and flat screen eyewear. It’s important to keep the quality going, and keep exploring lens construction. I’m bursting with ideas and excitement and fascinated with eyewear. Temples can be mixed with various materials, or take lenses used for skiing and adapt to sunglasses. It’s challenging, and competitive, but always exciting.
“Eyewear has always interested me, and I’m a hands on designer – very much involved, and I bring passion to what I do, and study what is going on in the market. I design from my heart. I’ve seen so much change – it is a staggering new world.
“A woman can express herself creatively, while protecting her eyes. Glasses give you attitude, and they make you look totally different. I design in the context of what I feel as a designer – and perhaps as an artist. I’m fascinated by it all.
“The focus on eyewear in Los Angeles is so obvious. It comes from loving sports. The vocabulary of eyewear has changed. Eyewear is a form of self-expression, and I always encourage women to express themselves, and also offer options and alternatives.
“I’m intrigued with jewelled eyewear. Diana Vreeland and Carrie Donavan (both editors and style icons at Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar at different periods) were defined by their eyewear – they saw the potential and power of eyewear.” www.kenmarkoptical.com / www.verawang.comJG
1st April 2015 A special chapter in French fashion history is highlighted with the intuitive creations of Jeanne Lanvin, now on display in the Palais Galliera. Curated in close collaboration with Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Maison Lanvin, the exhibition honours the oldest French fashion house still in business. In 1889, the twenty-two year old designer Jeanne Lanvin opened her first shop in Paris, and launched her long career that demonstrated her artistry in materials, embroidery, topstitches, twists, spirols, and cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturière’s craft. For the period, Jeanne Lanvin was very entrepreneurial, opening shops in Deauville, Cannes, Biarritz, and Le Touquet, as well as abroad in Barcelona and Buenos-Aires.
Her voracious curiosity inspired her to create unusual fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours. Her favourite colour – blue – was inspired by the intense blue in frescoes by Fra Angelico, and marvelous shades of blue were always magnificently presented in her collections (top photo). Her lifelong muse was her daughter Marguerite, who was born in 1897. Mme Lanvin’s dresses flattered the female form, and often she mixed fabrics – silk crêpe with silk tulle, or silk velvet with silvered metal sequin embroidery – with stunning results. She loved embroidery and beads, and used generous amounts in her designs.
When Jeanne Lanvin introduced her perfume Arpège – from the musical term arpeggio – the name was a tribute to the pianistic skills of her daughter, and for Marguerite’s 30th birthday, Jeanne dedicated her legendary perfume to her beloved daughter.
Jeanne Lanvin is the first Paris exhibition devoted to this discreet, visionary designer, and features more than one-hundred models from the amazing collections of the Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage. Alber Elbaz said: “I think we have managed to create an exhibition around the dream of fashion. What I am hoping for is to hear people say ‘I love Jeanne Lanvin'”. Through 23 August 2015. www.palaisgalliera.paris.frJG
Light and airy with soft and feminine styling characterize the latest designs from Charmant’s Line Art Collection. The timeless, romantic rimless design features a streamlined temple. Crafted from Excellence Titan – an exclusive material created by Charmant – the frame is amazingly light, and extremely durable. Dolce XL2063 is available in gold (above) plus black and a rich purple. www.charmant.comJG
Coterie’s new store in Chengdu is its 10th to date. The independent chain champions top level collections, international independent designers and artisan labels, including Anna-Karin Karlsson, a-morir, Mykita and Thierry Lasry.
“In our Chengdu store,” explains David Leung, “we also launch Vava, Lapis and Coco & Breezy. We allocate certain brands exclusively to each location, depending on demographic and positioning in the area.” The store is in a newly opened shopping area – Taikoo Li, where Hermes, Givenchy, Chloe, Apple, and Maria Luisa have all opened flagships in recent months.”
“It seems to us that Chinese consumers are starting to move toward specialised designer eyewear labels. In general, we see more openness to quality design products than we did a few years ago when we first started,” explains Leung.
Asked about further expansion, Leung says while there is much interest abroad, Coterie plans to innovate in other ways, through new collaborations, a wider accessories offering and a unique shopping experience for consumers in China.
“We believe good quality, inspiring design, and value for money are always the criteria for consumers’ selections. Regarding trends, we have seen in the last year a particular interest in mirrored lenses, combination and oversized frames overall.” Find out more about Coterie at www.coterie.cnCN