City guides

Fashion Divas Honoured at Costume Institute, NYC

10th May 2012 Two grand Italian fashion design divas, from totally different eras, are the subject of a fascinating exhibition at The Metropolitan of Art Costume Institute in New York City. Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada:Impossible Conversations opens today, and explores the striking affinities between these two Italian designers from distinctive fashion decades. Iconic ensembles by Schiaparelli and Prada are in the galleries, with approximately 100 designs and 40 accessories by Schiaparelli (1890-1973), dating from the late 1920′s to the early 1950′s, and Prada’s creations span the years from the late 1980′s to the present. Harold Koda, Curator in Charge, noted: “Juxtaposing the work of Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada allows us to explore how the past enlightens the present, and how the present enlivens the past.” Curator Andrew Bolton added: the connection of the historic to the modern highlights the affinities, as well as the variances, between two women who constantly subverted contemporary notions of taste, beauty, and glamour.”

Miuccia Prada, spring/summer 2011

Schiaparelli worked in Paris from the 1920′s until her house closed in 1954, and she was closely associated with the Surrealist movement – she collaborated with Salvador Dali on several projects. Prada, who holds a degree in political science, took over her family’s Milan-based business in 1978, and focuses on fashion that reflects the eclectic nature of Postmodernism. Both women are influential style mavens, and their designs continue to make an impact on fashion culture – and beyond. Exhibition dates: 10 May – 9 August 2012 www.metmuseum.org JG

Photo credits: Top image of Wallis Simpson in Elsa Schiaparelli, Vogue 01 June, 1937 Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s. Prada photo: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by David Sims.

Paris Fashion Museum Opens on La Seine

16th April 2012 Two stunning, simultaneous exhibitions are taking place at the newly opened Les Docks – cité de la Mode et du Design – Cristobal Balenciaga, and Comme des Garçons. The homage to Balenciaga is a beautiful retrospective of the Spanish creator, who was a genius with scissors and gorgeous fabrics. His choice of materials included cut out laces and embroidered velvets, sequined and jewelled silks, luxurious cashmeres – and every design flattered and enhanced the female form. His artistry was such that many of the evening creations could be worn today – and for lucky Balenciaga patrons – they are. Balenciaga is a style collector’s dream.

White Drama is the theme of the Comme des Garçons presentation, created by tour de force Rei Kawakubo. The Spring/Summer 2012 collection on display is a fantasy of romanticism in monochrome, with several designs featuring amazing crochet hoods and stoles. The exhibitions continue through 7 October. Visitors can enjoy the opulence of the fashion exhibitions, and savour the location of this new venue as well, located directly on La Seine. More details at www.paris-docks-en-seine.fr  Above photo by Jean-François José JG

27th March 2012 Marni is to present, during Salone del Mobile 2012 (the Furniture Fair held in Milan), a collection of 100 chairs. Made in Colombia by ex-prisoners, the chairs consist of metal structures and multi-colored PVC threads featured on the backs and arm rests. They are linked to the “L’Arte del Ritratto” project through a photo exhibition created in collaboration with the photographer and filmmaker Francesco Iodice. The chairs are used as a background for a series of portraits of Marni teams from different departments. The chairs will be shown at the Marni Boutique and its courtyard, in Milan during the Furniture Fair (17 to 22 April 2012). www.marni.com CN

Renowned Works of Tiffany Studios at Flagler Museum,

Palm Beach, Florida

1st March 2012 Palm Beach holds cherished memories for me – the incredible expanse of sea and silky white beaches, the Mediterranean-style homes, shopping on Worth Avenue, and the stunning Flagler Museum. When American industrialist Henry Flagler’s Gilded Age estate in Palm Beach was finished in 1902, the New York Herald hailed it as “more wonderful than any palace in Europe….”. Now the former private dwelling is a beautiful museum, currently showcasing “A New Light on Tiffany:Clara Driscoll and the Tiffany Girls”. Behind the famed glass designs of Louis C. Tiffany was a small brigade of women, headed by Miss Driscoll, who was responsible for many of the masterpieces now inextricably linked to the Tiffany name. The Daffodil Shade (above) was probably designed by Clara Driscoll, circa 1900-06. The Crutch Oval base, circa 1900-06. (Courtesy of New York Historical Society, Gift of Dr. Egon Neustadt)

Wisteria Lamp designed by Clara Driscoll circa 1901

Clara Driscoll was a prodigious writer who wrote voluminous letters to her mother and sister – providing a first-hand account of the inner workings of Tiffany Studios. There are more than fifty lamps on display, plus historic design drawings, sheets of Tiffany glass, and the tools used to make the intricate shades. What is also pleasant to discover, is that Mr. Tiffany demonstrated steadfast support for his women workers- not very common in the 20th century. If your travels take you to America’s East Coast, this is an exhibition that will impress and delight. The Flagler Museum at any time is a joy. Through 22 April www.flaglermuseum.us JG

(Wisteria Lamp photo courtesy of New York Historical Society, Gift of Dr. Egon Neustadt)