Eyestylist

Paul Smith and Cutler and Gross are to join forces as eyewear partners, with a first collection launch planned for March 2019. The British eyewear brand will utilise its traditional production expertise that spans almost 50 years to create Paul Smith eyewear and sunglasses with a luxurious finesse in the metal and acetate materials and subtle design details that will tie in with the fashion designer’s colours and tailoring. Marie Wilkinson, long serving Design Director for the London eyewear brand will oversee the creation and development of the frames in collaboration with Smith’s design experts.

In a statement, Paul Smith explained: “I’ve always had enormous admiration for Cutler and Gross. Before we sadly lost him, Tony Gross was a personal friend of mine. The attention to detail and expertise that Tony practiced is still absolutely central to the work the company are doing today. I’m delighted to be collaborating with Cutler and Gross and look forward to an exciting and creative future.”

The frames, which will feature high quality Dalloz sun lenses, will be on show to retailers at Mido Milan – the Italian trade fair – in February. They will then be available from Paul Smith and Cutler and Gross outlets and a selection of premium stores and opticians globally. For more details about Cutler and Gross visit www.cutlerandgross.com CN

The passion to create original and imaginative eyewear creatively flows in the Goldsmith genetic code. The family-run business – now under the leadership of dynamic Claire Goldsmith – is embracing new horizons for the nearly century-old British company. Claire comments on the creation of her own innovative collection – Claire Goldsmith Optical.

Please tell us how you perceived and envisioned the concept that developed and evolved into CG Optical? “CG evolved through an inner ambition to pursue something for myself. Initially all the OG designs we made were replicas of styles held in our archive. They were relics brought back to life in beautiful new colour ways and modern acetates. We’ve since developed the collection to include new original designs, but at the conception of the relaunch there wasn’t a platform for me to create new styles. I was dubious about doing so under the Oliver Goldsmith name. It was so iconic and historically treasured. I wanted something of my own to create, and so the natural evolution was to launch my own brand.” (Above image:Claire Goldsmith)

Was your inspiration or motivation influenced by fashion trends; art or architecture; travel; or other appealing circumstances? “My initial inspiration certainly came from my heritage and the incredible brand my great grandfathers had created and the legacy they left behind. OG was at its peak during the 1960’s and 70’s – and these decades continue to be enormously influential to me: from fashion, car design, architecture…there is something so cool about that period of time that I am forever drawn to the fantasy of the era – the celebrity, the clothes, the apposition of both frivolity and attention to detail  – in detail. But CG is a new brand, and much as I enjoy looking to the past for inspiration, it is today’s customer we are dressing, and as a Londoner (myself) and as a London brand, I am lucky to be continually inspired by the city, and the people who live within it.”

What are your favourite materials and colours in which to create a collection? “OG is an acetate brand, and so it’s very much what I know best. It’s a material I understand, and I love the joy of creating new materials through laminates or changing the thickness of a frame to reveal the richness of its colour. For me, acetate is part of our identity, whether we are talking OG or CG. I adore super light stainless steel frames; I think they are beautiful, but you can’t be every brand to every person and it’s exhausting trying to be. I dabble with metals and combination frames, but my core material will always be acetate – other brands already do metals or wood or vinyl so well – I’ll stick to what I know and do best!”

What is the demographic profile of the CG Optical wearer? “I don’t really think demographics exist in the same way they once did. The CG customer is varied, simply because of the incredible cities and stores around the world where we are represented. Our frames are contemporary classics, and our customers tend to revere the values of the brand rather than because they fit into a particular demographic. We’ve dressed the eyes of so many different people, and so many age groups, and I love that.”

What shapes and colours do customers most desire this season? “When I purchase something I want it to last more than a season, and I like to think my customers buy into CG as a lifestyle rather than a seasonal piece. Personal style is so – well – personal – and if my frames can help someone express themselves or become an integral part of their image, then that makes me happy. I truly don’t design to fit into trends. Of course, I’m conscious of what fashion is dictating, but what someone wears on their face doesn’t always correlate with what they wear on their body. There are some amazing brands producing incredibly modern and fashion forward eyewear who dictate micro trends within the eyewear industry, but the colours and shapes we produce at CG focus more on longevity.”

You love to create and have an enterprising spirit. Are there possible creative design thoughts or ideas being cultivated? “Definitely! We are living in such an entrepreneurial era, with the internet and social media providing a platform for almost anyone to launch a brand or concept. I find this both incredibly inspiring and at times, overwhelming, but I do like the idea of being able to be creative in other industries: to dabble or delve into different projects as I see fit. For now, CG an OG keep me more than busy, but who knows, perhaps that enterprising spirit will need exercising at some point!” www.clairegoldsmith.com JG

“Since 2012, we have held Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart at Motorworld in Boblingen,” said organiser Nathanaël Wenger, “and this year we decided to change the venue to the centre of Stuttgart, where we found a beautiful, historical building – Haus der Wirtschaft. (Top image:Lars Malmsten Vasuma Eyewear and Nathanaël Wenger)

“Quality, independent labels were present – including among others – Blackfin; Orgreen; Von Arkel; Vasuma; Nirvan Javan; Didier Voirol; Götti; Coblens; and neubau. However, we were disappointed with the number of opticians that visited during the two days – which was below our projected expectations. Perhaps the rivalry of superb weather; Stuttgart’s Octobefest; shops open on Sunday; and Stuttgart’s challenging traffic contributed to fewer shops visiting.

“It has always been our goal to bring independent designer brands and opticians together. We have so enjoyed our years of involvement with Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart, but have now decided not to continue for 2019, and will focus on Hall of Frames Zurich for next year. We look forward to seeing you in Switzerland!”  www.hallofframes.ch JG 

Photos:Andrea Tännier All Rights Reserved

Jubilee festivities resonate – as Kirk & Kirk salutes the 100th anniversary of the renowned British brand, with a stunning new range of beautiful designs in exquisite colours – The Centena Collection. Jason and Karen Kirk – the guiding force bringing the label and its optical history into the next century – commented: “The Centena Collection is important to Kirk & Kirk, as it is an embodiment of the celebration of the Kirk family’s one hundred year history in optics. (Top image: Dennisin in Crystal; Sarah in Walnut; Esme in Crimson; Cecil in Tiger; Sidney in Corn from The Centena Collection)

“Ever since Sidney and Percy Kirk converted a sewing machine into a lens cutter back in 1919, the Kirk family has innovated eyewear, offering technical or stylistic approaches that are designed to excite and inspire. The Centena Collection mirrors this enthusiasm with its use of acrylic, an unconventional, avant-garde material that is featherweight – and incredibly comfortable to wear. We have used 10mm acrylic for this collection which has been such fun to work with. Each frame is like an individual sculpture featuring beautiful angles to exploit the glasslike properties of the material.”

Acrylic is not only lightweight – it is strong and durable. The colours are luxurious  – Iris, Tiger, Corn, Crystal, Crimson, Walnut, Sage and Royal. Designs are bold and strong manifesting the confident colours that re-enforce Jason and Karen Kirk’s philosophy that fine eyewear is made to be experienced – and enjoyed. Visit www.kirkandkirk.com for more CENTENA details – and other optical and sunglass designs. JG

Celebrations accompanied the 10th anniversary edition of Hall of Frames Zurich, which took place in “Papiersaal” in Sihlcity in the centre of town. Organiser Nathanaël Wenger noted: “Forty-four exhibitors presented their autumn designs over two floors with the urban style of the former paper mill relating well with the design claim of Hall of Frames. Almost all Swiss Eyewear brands were present, including Newcomers Baselli; Fussungswerk; Specs Lab and Nirvan Javan, and interior designer Martha Arenas. Others are well established like Götti; Didier Voirol; Einstoffen and  Von Arkel.(above image left to right) Marco and Rico Rihm Specs Lab Zurich; Martha Arenas Interior Designer; Nathanaël Wenger HOF Zurich organiser; Joan Grady Co-Founder Eyestylist.com; Sven Götti Götti Switzerland; Birgitte Falvin Falvin Eyewear

“It’s great that the designers use Hall of Frames to show their work together with other well-known international eyewear designers.” Among others participating included: Any Di from Germany; Rolf Spectacles, Andy Wolf and neubau from Austria; Falvin and Orgreen from Scandinavia; Vasuma from Sweden; Blackfin in Italy; Vinylise from Budapest, and Face à Face in France.

The occasion was highlighted with a celebration dinner on the Sunday evening, organised by Nath Wenger with superb food, in the atmospheric restaurant “Rüsterei” in the Papiersaal venue. “Approximately fifty opticians and exhibitors shared and enjoyed a pleasant evening together,” said Nath, “with a relaxed atmosphere, and exhibitors and visitors felt very comfortable in the location.”

With the positive feedback, the show will again be held in Papiersaal for the 2019 event. Note the dates now – 22nd and 23rd September 2019 – one week before Silmo Paris.

In the meantime, Eyestylist will keep you up to date on events and exhibitors for next year’s Hall of Frames Zurich at Papiersaal. www.hallofframes.ch JG Photos exclusively for Hall of Frames Zurich by Robert Gose All Rights Reserved

Eyewear colour has realised new heights and horizons this season with boldness, creativity and the surprisingly unexpected. Whether you favour serene and subdued, or bright and energetic colourations – the vast selection of eyewear hues affords endless possibilities for spectacle wearers. Res/Rei celebrates colour (above) with unique combinations in custom-crafted acetates, all handmade in Italy. Ortensia is the latest addition to the Res/Rei collection of stunning optical and sunglass designs. www.resrei.com

Exclusive colour tint lenses by Carl Zeiss take centre stage at Anna-Karin Karlsson with her glamorous Full Moon sunglasses, inspired by the colour of the sky where Anna-Karin lives in the Stockholm Archipelago. www.annakarinkarlsson.com

Nowadays, Graffiti is everywhere – so why not eyewear? Theo has the solution with The Graffiti Collection designed by Serge Bracké that implements fabulous colourations that automatically stimulates the ultimate street cred. www.theo.be

Finest Seven brings spirited colour to their plated surgical stainless steel sun specs – Zero 14 – with a striking inner acetate rim in bright orange. Voluminous in shape, the frames are superbly lightweight. Visit www.finestseven.com for more sleek designs.

Soft shades of pink with a hint of rose feature in eyewear with Sandbridge by Blackfin  – suggesting a delicate yet dramatic, expressive style.  The unique titanium frame structure with its sophisticated colouration is totally handcrafted by Italian artisans. www.blackfin.eu JG

The award winning Austrian label – Rolf Spectacles – excels in moving beyond barriers to create new possibilities and horizons. When the company launched, Tyrol woods were crafted into superb quality frames. Then there were unique designs in stone, and luxurious buffalo horn frames. For their latest eyewear adventure, Rolf has launched a Titanium collection with fresh innovations.

The Titanium Skyline Collection includes sixteen designs for prescription glasses, and six sun styles. Technical engineering is evident with intricate detailing, so finely optimised, and the frames are amazingly slim and light. The glasses are made with only three major components, so therefore, highly flexible, as well as sturdy. Finishes are smooth and sleek, or beautifully textured.

Rolf stated: “Our mission is to follow our vision, to create new things never seen before, and to set new trends while remaining true to our roots.” For more information on the distinctive Titanium Skyline Collection – visit www.rolf-spectacles.com JG