Eyestylist

erase by Masahiro Maruyama – two new releases

Two new models – just released this month – express the unusual aesthetic of a handmade collection inspired by erasing pencil lines – the brand releases unique spectacles every season based on the concept of unfinished art

erase by Masahiro Maruyama, the Japanese creative designer known for special artisan design work and impeccable craftsmanship, sees the addition of two new models this month – MM-0089 and MM-0090. The precisely calculated designs explore a playful idea where all traditional notions of how a frame should look are broken –  the right and left sides of the frames do not match – and nor do the front eye shapes. The uneven, asymmetrical lines and shapes are positively celebrated and explored with passion to finely craft each tiny aspect of the frames! This turns the designs into beautiful artistic pieces that offer the wearer a completely unique item for their face, like no other. Above: MM-0089 by the Japanese designer Masahiro Maruyama – avantgarde shape with details created with expertise and precision 

MM-0090 by Masahiro Maruyama comes in bright tones of red or green – the eye shape is loosely based on a classic oval design

Both models are released in four colours which include bright tones of green, blue, red as well as a refined black or black and gold. The erase collection by Masahiro Maruyama was first introduced on Eyestylist.com in March 2018 : https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/03/erase-by-masahiro-maruyama/

Interview exclusive: Oscar Mamooi

A multi-faceted designer, Oscar Mamooi has lived many lives as a stylist, illustrator and door selector of a prestigious Milanese nightclub, among other ventures. Since 2020, Mamooi has harnessed his flair for life and channelled this energy into producing fearless, avant-garde eyewear collections that embrace the power of self-expression, each frame empowering their wearer to see life with clarity, light and positivity. Eyestylist’s feature writer Victoria G. L. Brunton speaks to Mamooi on sustainability, dream muses and upcoming projects…

Tell us a bit about your professional journey…Before arriving in the world of eyewear, I held various roles thanks to my eclectic and always lively personality, characterized by a constant search for new work stimuli. This way of being has led me to work as a stylist for various fashion magazines. At the same time, I held the role of “door selector” at the historic Milanese club Killer Plastic.

I have always had a sort of obsessive mania for sunglasses, ardently wanting to create my own line that would break the mould of the current market. My goal was to create an object that was not only aesthetically beautiful, but capable of telling a story and conveying a unique personality. From this desire was born my first collaboration with the “Celebration” project, for which I dedicated a pair of glasses to the fashion journalist Anna Piaggi. (Note: view on Eyestylist.com in 2014  at https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/09/anna-piaggi-fashion-influential/)

Subsequently, I had the opportunity to learn about Prophilo, the company that currently produces the Oscar Mamooi line, furthering my dream of innovating and revolutionising the eyewear industry. Above: portrait of the designer

A signature piece: the SAINT by Oscar Mamooi – “a beacon of bold provocative elegance” – 2024

Which of your frames or collections best represents you as a designer, and why? I am particularly fond of the asymmetrical and glacial silhouette that bears the name Pluto, and I believe it fully reflects my ever-changing creativity, embodying the incessant search for new horizons.

You cite inspiration in the connection between man and nature, can you explain this further? How does it manifest in physical frames? Organic shapes and lines can be key elements in the creative process, offering stimuli to generate elements inspired by nature. In summary, the connection between man and nature manifests itself in man’s vision through natural shapes, colours and textures, combining aesthetics and details that evoke the natural world. This approach creates visually and tactically pleasing products, promoting a message of sustainability and respect for the environment.

The physical frame can be manifested through the vision of what you intend to create and express. This idea guides the entire creative process and translates into an element that tells a story or evokes specific emotions. For example, a collection inspired by modern architecture might incorporate clean lines, sharp angles and innovative materials.

OM Vespertine – vibrant hues and bold sculpted structure

What is your view on sustainability across the fashion industry / with reference to eyewear? Sustainability in the fashion industry has become an essential priority, and this also applies to the eyewear industry. I firmly believe that the eyewear industry can and should play a significant role in reducing environmental impact. Many brands are already adopting eco-friendly materials such as biodegradable and recycled acetate, wood and bamboo, as well as recycled metals. This not only decreases our dependence on non-renewable resources, but also reduces waste.

Furthermore, production processes are becoming increasingly efficient and environmentally friendly, thanks to the use of advanced technologies that reduce waste and energy consumption. Transparency in the production chain and environmental certifications also play a crucial role in ensuring sustainable and ethical practices.

If you could choose anyone in the world to be your muse or campaign star, dead or alive, who would it be, and why? I can do no more than think about Grace Jones. With her perfect personality, capable of simultaneously embodying Parisian elegance and Jamaican allure, she is an immortal style icon. Her wild, dazzling, and androgynous presence made every appearance a memorable event. Her ability to transform sunglasses into a distinctive and bold accessory is unmatched, contributing to defining a timeless style that continues to inspire.

Oscar Mamooi optical collection – captivating and bold with colour

What are you planning for the new season, creatively speaking? Nature will continue to be the predominant element of my creations. There will be new concepts inspired by natural elements, infusing our collections with organic shapes, textures and colours found in the natural world. This approach not only allows us to create unique and innovative designs, but also underlines our connection with nature.

If you didn’t work in the optical industry, where do you think you would work / what would you do? If I wasn’t working in the optical industry, I think I would take up painting. Creativity and artistic expression have always been a key part of my life and give me a great sense of fulfilment. Painting would allow me to further explore my love for colours, shapes and textures, and to communicate emotions and ideas in a visual way. I believe that art, in all its forms, is a powerful medium for connecting people and telling stories, and I’m fascinated by the idea of being able to contribute to this universal dialogue through my expressiveness.

Will you exhibit at SILMO Paris in September? Yes, I will be present at SILMO Paris with many new features. I can’t wait to present our latest collections, which combine innovative design and refined details. This event represents a unique opportunity to share our passion for artisan excellence with an international audience. We are preparing a series of new models inspired by natural elements, with sculpted details that I believe will surprise and fascinate visitors. I look forward to meeting colleagues, customers and enthusiasts in the sector to discuss future trends and our creative visions. www.oscarmamooi.com

Look Moda: Italian classics

Two new frames combine classic style and easy comfort

At Italian eyewear company Look, two new optical frames in acetate – with a fashionable “sculpted effect” – have been added to the three best-selling styles from the 4570 series, introduced by the company last year.

Unisex panto shape 04573 in the Look Moda collection, features a keyhole bridge in a wearable yet flattering design, while model 04574 has a softly contoured rectangular design – an easy style for men. By balancing form and function, the styles reflect the company’s heritage in a subtle and unpretentious way. Warm, natural shades, including varieties of classic havana elegantly adapt to any personality and occasion. Above and below: a straightforward Italian-made panto design – combining two classic acetate colours – for enthusiasts of timeless eyewear – the 04573 from Look has just been released

04574 – detail of the rectangular style

The Moda collection has been created to narrate Look’s interpretation of new trends while at the same time maximizing the brand’s cultural roots through a design distinguished by absolute production quality. While the acetate profiles are bold, their qualities such as lightness ensure the all important comfortable fit.

Made entirely in Italy, these frames in the Moda collection are the product of a traditional eyewear company’s tried-and-tested blending of technology and production know-how, and their commitment to excellence in the details and functionality of each design. To find out more about Look visit their new website at: https://www.lookocchiali.it/en

Sunglasses: summer’s bold and colourful looks

In sunwear, the choice of glamorous shapes and colours is particularly enticing this season, as a desire for self-expression  – alongside safe, high-quality UV protection, continues to drive creativity and an individuality of style 

While some say the season’s apparel was about playing it safe, sunglasses this season are served up less discreetly, as the ideal opportunity to add effect, drama, humour, or an individualised expression of style. Enter a whole host of oversized and sculptural shapes – including square, geometric, oval and cat eye, with some tremendous detailing – sometimes subtle and sometimes over-the-top – and a fascinating colour story which is extremely broad, and bursting with exciting colours to enliven any outfit. Above: model Rose Sun by Jisco – the Spanish eyewear brand – is an elegant, oversized square-shaped sunglass style, offered in four colourways – with sun lenses in eye-catching contemporary hues, www.jiscoeyewear.com

Lapima – Lisa in “daisy yellow” – a light, zesty citrus tone

Brazilian label Lapima brings audacious notes of brightness to their collection in models like Lisa, a distinctive rectangular acetate design with thick rims that have a handcrafted “sculpted” finish. The new yellow tone that has been introduced for several models in a limited edition is said to offer an expression of “celebration and vitality, a toast to the summer of ’24!” www.lapima.com

Zaiku 1 by FACE A FACE – a playful concept from the Parisian eyewear brand

The Zaiku 1 by FACE A FACE – in the Japan Now! collection – is inspired by the Yosegi-zaiku “parquet work” – a type of traditional marquetry which resembles a mosaic – and is most well-known for its use in creating Japanese puzzle boxes. The frame combines this influence with a gorgeous combination of several bright and intense tones and transparent coloured acetates. www.faceaface-paris.com

Marni by RSF – Magneticus in the colour “lazuli”

The unisex Magneticus frame at Marni is a bright spark in their new collection for summer: the butterfly shape has a rounded lens design and a 1950s inspired twist in its detailing. Thick temples feature distinctive forked tips while the overall structure is full of character with its sculpted look and natural custom finish. www.marni.com

Odd Fruits by Gigi Studios – the Citrus sunglasses

Tones of bright pink, yellow, red and orange are all part of the mix in the Spring/Summer sunglass collections. The Odd Fruits collection by Gigi Studios has based its colour palette on some of them, inspired by unusual exotic fruits and their beautiful tropical or citrus variations. www.gigistudios.com

theo’s Suprematisme is a striking multicoloured sunglass (unisex) with an artistic theme

In theo’s new Artisme collection, the sun models such as Suprematisme are like miniature artworks, with complex structures, unusual shapes and saturated colour schemes with striking patterned sections, all combined together for the most creative and eye-catching “denouement” to accessorise the eyes! Find out more about this new artsy collection from the Belgian design label at www.theo.be

Coup de Coeur in the Hybrid Collection! – by J.F. Rey

Three creative, colourful additions introduced in the combined metal and acetate frame collection at French design label, J.F. Rey : JF3060, JF3061, JF3059

Fresh, bright, creatively colourful! The new designs, which include the hexagonal shaped model JF3060, offer custom-made acetate laminations in a blend of colours and patterns on a lightweight metal structure in complementary hues. Each style celebrates the possibilities of unexpected combinations and an aesthetic uniqueness – wholly characteristic of the J.F. Rey brand!

For all three styles, the frame fronts are adorned with a bespoke acetate construction: a play of laminations blending colour, pattern, and texture -assembled carefully to highlight the idiosyncratic beauty of each shape. Above and below: JF3060 by J.F. Rey

JF3061 by J.F. Rey – a striking round model offered in bright, alluring colours and contrasts of saturated and crystal colours – pictured above: the JF3059

The velvety satin finish of the metal frame structure enhances the three new designs, adding a contemporary elegance described as “an expressive, distinctive and memorable visual signature” that reflects the essence of J.F. Rey’s dedicated work in colour. Find out more at www.jfrey.fr