“Since 2012, we have held Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart at Motorworld in Boblingen,” said organiser Nathanaël Wenger, “and this year we decided to change the venue to the centre of Stuttgart, where we found a beautiful, historical building – Haus der Wirtschaft. (Top image:Lars Malmsten Vasuma Eyewear and Nathanaël Wenger)
“Quality, independent labels were present – including among others – Blackfin; Orgreen; Von Arkel; Vasuma; Nirvan Javan; Didier Voirol; Götti; Coblens; and neubau. However, we were disappointed with the number of opticians that visited during the two days – which was below our projected expectations. Perhaps the rivalry of superb weather; Stuttgart’s Octobefest; shops open on Sunday; and Stuttgart’s challenging traffic contributed to fewer shops visiting.
“It has always been our goal to bring independent designer brands and opticians together. We have so enjoyed our years of involvement with Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart, but have now decided not to continue for 2019, and will focus on Hall of Frames Zurich for next year. We look forward to seeing you in Switzerland!” www.hallofframes.chJG
Jubilee festivities resonate – as Kirk & Kirk salutes the 100th anniversary of the renowned British brand, with a stunning new range of beautiful designs in exquisite colours – The Centena Collection. Jason and Karen Kirk – the guiding force bringing the label and its optical history into the next century – commented: “The Centena Collection is important to Kirk & Kirk, as it is an embodiment of the celebration of the Kirk family’s one hundred year history in optics. (Top image: Dennisin in Crystal; Sarah in Walnut; Esme in Crimson; Cecil in Tiger; Sidney in Corn from The Centena Collection)
“Ever since Sidney and Percy Kirk converted a sewing machine into a lens cutter back in 1919, the Kirk family has innovated eyewear, offering technical or stylistic approaches that are designed to excite and inspire. The Centena Collection mirrors this enthusiasm with its use of acrylic, an unconventional, avant-garde material that is featherweight – and incredibly comfortable to wear. We have used 10mm acrylic for this collection which has been such fun to work with. Each frame is like an individual sculpture featuring beautiful angles to exploit the glasslike properties of the material.”
Acrylic is not only lightweight – it is strong and durable. The colours are luxurious – Iris, Tiger, Corn, Crystal, Crimson, Walnut, Sage and Royal. Designs are bold and strong manifesting the confident colours that re-enforce Jason and Karen Kirk’s philosophy that fine eyewear is made to be experienced – and enjoyed. Visit www.kirkandkirk.com for more CENTENA details – and other optical and sunglass designs. JG
Celebrations accompanied the 10th anniversary edition of Hall of Frames Zurich, which took place in “Papiersaal” in Sihlcity in the centre of town. Organiser Nathanaël Wenger noted: “Forty-four exhibitors presented their autumn designs over two floors with the urban style of the former paper mill relating well with the design claim of Hall of Frames. Almost all Swiss Eyewear brands were present, including Newcomers Baselli; Fussungswerk; Specs Lab and Nirvan Javan, and interior designer Martha Arenas. Others are well established like Götti; Didier Voirol; Einstoffen and Von Arkel.(above image left to right) Marco and Rico Rihm Specs Lab Zurich; Martha Arenas Interior Designer; Nathanaël Wenger HOF Zurich organiser; Joan Grady Co-Founder Eyestylist.com; Sven Götti Götti Switzerland; Birgitte Falvin Falvin Eyewear
“It’s great that the designers use Hall of Frames to show their work together with other well-known international eyewear designers.” Among others participating included: Any Di from Germany; Rolf Spectacles, Andy Wolf and neubau from Austria; Falvin and Orgreen from Scandinavia; Vasuma from Sweden; Blackfin in Italy; Vinylise from Budapest, and Face à Face in France.
The occasion was highlighted with a celebration dinner on the Sunday evening, organised by Nath Wenger with superb food, in the atmospheric restaurant “Rüsterei” in the Papiersaal venue. “Approximately fifty opticians and exhibitors shared and enjoyed a pleasant evening together,” said Nath, “with a relaxed atmosphere, and exhibitors and visitors felt very comfortable in the location.”
With the positive feedback, the show will again be held in Papiersaal for the 2019 event. Note the dates now – 22nd and 23rd September 2019 – one week before Silmo Paris.
In the meantime, Eyestylist will keep you up to date on events and exhibitors for next year’s Hall of Frames Zurich at Papiersaal. www.hallofframes.ch JG Photos exclusively for Hall of Frames Zurich by Robert Gose All Rights Reserved
Eyewear colour has realised new heights and horizons this season with boldness, creativity and the surprisingly unexpected. Whether you favour serene and subdued, or bright and energetic colourations – the vast selection of eyewear hues affords endless possibilities for spectacle wearers. Res/Rei celebrates colour (above) with unique combinations in custom-crafted acetates, all handmade in Italy. Ortensia is the latest addition to the Res/Rei collection of stunning optical and sunglass designs. www.resrei.com
Exclusive colour tint lenses by Carl Zeiss take centre stage at Anna-Karin Karlsson with her glamorous Full Moon sunglasses, inspired by the colour of the sky where Anna-Karin lives in the Stockholm Archipelago. www.annakarinkarlsson.com
Nowadays, Graffiti is everywhere – so why not eyewear? Theo has the solution with The Graffiti Collection designed by Serge Bracké that implements fabulous colourations that automatically stimulates the ultimate street cred. www.theo.be
Finest Seven brings spirited colour to their plated surgical stainless steel sun specs – Zero 14 – with a striking inner acetate rim in bright orange. Voluminous in shape, the frames are superbly lightweight. Visit www.finestseven.com for more sleek designs.
Soft shades of pink with a hint of rose feature in eyewear with Sandbridge by Blackfin – suggesting a delicate yet dramatic, expressive style. The unique titanium frame structure with its sophisticated colouration is totally handcrafted by Italian artisans. www.blackfin.euJG
The New York eyewear scene continues to see a healthy surge in creativity and directional trends. This month sees the launch of yet another newcomer called SpiltMilk Eyewear, set up with the creative input from the NYC based designer Vidal Erkohen (RVS Eyewear). Made in Japan, with focus on quality standards and innovative design concepts with a global inspiration, the collection is proposing some experimental ideas “to represent the conjunction between fashion and culture” and builds from a high-energy colour palette – on point for SS19.
In the mix for the launching collections of sunnies are designs that combine two shapes in one (Bali), a super round shape with inner rim connected with an open wire mesh (Bora Bora), a detailed aviator statement piece (Maldives) and a narrow elongated trendy wire form that is slightly upswept – in chic combos such as lime with scarlet and pastel pink with black (Phi Phi).
The new brand has been under development since 2017, and is owned by Saif Ghobash (London) and Judge Khanna (NYC) – a New York based accessories designer. Spilt Milk launches its first sunglasses collection at the end of October and goes online shortly at www.spiltmilkeyewear.com. CN
The award winning Austrian label – Rolf Spectacles – excels in moving beyond barriers to create new possibilities and horizons. When the company launched, Tyrol woods were crafted into superb quality frames. Then there were unique designs in stone, and luxurious buffalo horn frames. For their latest eyewear adventure, Rolf has launched a Titanium collection with fresh innovations.
The Titanium Skyline Collection includes sixteen designs for prescription glasses, and six sun styles. Technical engineering is evident with intricate detailing, so finely optimised, and the frames are amazingly slim and light. The glasses are made with only three major components, so therefore, highly flexible, as well as sturdy. Finishes are smooth and sleek, or beautifully textured.
Rolf stated: “Our mission is to follow our vision, to create new things never seen before, and to set new trends while remaining true to our roots.” For more information on the distinctive Titanium Skyline Collection – visit www.rolf-spectacles.com JG
Creative highlights from this year’s Paris eyewear event
There’s one thing we are always in search of at the international eyewear event, SILMO: and that’s innovation with a clearly defined creative or technical achievement in the construction, design or overall concept. This year the stands were loaded with forward-thinking design work and original collections, for the most part, with a strong infusion of interesting colour, exquisite tonal and material combinations, and increasingly daring shapes – which sat alongside very minimal pared back collections where the focus is clearly on lightness and comfort.
Key shapes included elongated cateyes and new 90s-inspired ovals, but the shape story is not confined to these statement looks and we found many geometric forms, octagonal or hexagonal shapes, and a strong trend for complex shapes or constructions that require accomplished design tricks with layering, cutting and colour. Above: a new collection by FACE A FACE with imagery which explores the phenomenon of Synaesthesia. The frames play with contrasts of colour and materials, taking inspiration from the world of fine art.www.faceaface-paris.com
Ørgreen’s state-of-the-art Quantum collection saw the addition of the first Sun styles – a brilliant collection of 5 unisex, male and female designs, with futuristic cases fitted uniquely with the specific form of two of the statement styles.
Pictured above, 3.11 is one of the statement pieces among the designs: an oversize sun style for women which takes strong visual inspiration from the classics of the 1970s – a key theme at SILMO. The low bridge contrasts with large rectangular tinted lenses recall acetate frames from a bygone era, while the titanium and polyamide material add an urban and modern touch. 3.11 is available in three refreshing colours contrasting frame and lenses – from Black/Gun with an amber hue lens to Red Wine / Gold with a light grey and bronze tinted lens. www.orgreenoptics.com
Exceptional handcrafting in precious materials is always a highlight at the fair. From the Netherlands, Alexanian has a devoted following of customers who look for craftsmanship and luxury refinement in rimless and full rim designs created to perfection in solid gold, and in many cases studded boldly with jewels, on frame and even nose pads. The frame with a sculptural detail on the rim above in their new collection is inspired by watches and comes in white gold and 18kt gold. www.alexanian.nl
French eyewear creativity is well represented across the fair, and a handful of young designers are following the traditional spectacle making techniques making use of classic materials and features. The classical style was beautifully conveyed at Meg Eyewear, a label that produces frames in Oyonnax. The designs, specifically for women, offer high quality and sophisticated elegance in ‘sober’ iconic colour tones. www.megeyewear.com
Designers have also paid much attention to the effect of layering rims in different colours or materials on the front of the frame, to play with light and structure. A super example is the Theodore by SALT. Optics, where the round titanium rim features a delicate crystal inner rim in acetate. www.saltoptics.com
Also in our highlights this year is Portrait Eyewear, run by a young delightful brother and sister team, based in Milan, with a genuine passion for art and eyewear. There new Glitch concept is based on the glitch-art movement most often related to video art and photography. The frame surface reproduces the digital and analog interference with an unexpectedly glamorous effect on the face. Find out more at www.portraiteyewear.com
ALERT! Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart will be held at Haus der Wirtschaft (above image) at Willi-Gleicher-Strasse 19, 70174 Stuttgart, commencing Saturday 13th October from 11h00 to 18h00; and Sunday 14th October from 10h00 to 16h00. www.hausderswirtschaft.de
The 2018 edition of Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart takes place in a uniquely historical building with royal connections – and warmly welcomes guests seeking energised state-of-the-art eyewear. Located in the centre of Stuttgart, Haus der Wirtschaft was built at the end of the 19th century as an exhibition centre and museum, and was opened by King Karl I in June 1896. The elegant structure was fortunate to survive the bombing of WW2, and has been updated with caring diligence – and great awareness of its long history. Independent eyewear artisans will introduce their latest collections that include superlative designs in beautiful materials, enhanced with – and highlighting – cutting-edge technology, with original colourations.
The ingenious engineering in Von Arkel’s Calibre 4 Outline designs is a masterpiece of fine detail and the resplendent polishing on the frames is borrowed from the meticulous craftsmanship of watchmaking. www.vonarkel.com
In the Blackfin autumn collection stylistic innovation reigns with sleek cat-eye shaping in titanium and beta-titanium in Sunnyside – blending design sophistication and interplays of technology. www.blackfin.eu
Andy Wolf, the Austrian label, will be in Stuttgart to show their minimalist White Heat design collection that incorporates a divergence of materials and balanced proportions. www.andy-wolf.com
Handmade in Germany, Matze Marpe will present contemporary optical designs in acetate and stainless steel. www.matzemarpe.de
RESERVE THESE DATES for Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart – and the stunning venue – Haus der Wirtschaft – 13th and 14th October – for artisan eyewear from participating – and passionate – independent labels. www.diebrillenmesse.deJG
Fashion permeates the air in Paris as shows regale with exciting new perspectives in clothes and accessories. Silmo Paris salutes eyewear – with the annual event opening on 28th September. Tempting frames from international designers are on display during the four-day event at Parc Des Expositions – Paris Nord Villepinte. Creativity abounds: here is an advance peek at styles that will impress and delight. German model Toni Dreher (above image) wears a striking, bold design by Sol Sol Ito – the boutique Swiss brand. www.solsolito.com
The new Perspective Collection by Götti Switzerland highlights the interplay between segments of circles, reduced corners, and lines for pure avant-garde form. www.gotti.ch
Relaxed, laid-back California style: SALT.Optics beautiful designs are inspired by the fascinating Joshua Tree National Park. www.saltoptics.com
SILMO Paris opens the doors to the latest fashion-savvy eyewear in just a few days. Ernest Hemmingway would agree – it is a feast…for the eyes! Eyestylist previews indicate that the collections will be a plethora of new discoveries in concepts; technology; materials; colours; and irresistible style. Savour the possibilities – and opportunities – and come explore new and beautiful eyewear.
The wondrous world of flowers inspires Lafont Paris as they launch the elegant Les Delicieuses capsule collection (top image). www.lafont.com
A dream come true for Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland with the release of Dimension Next Generation glasses with futuristic 3D printing for young people. www.gotti.ch
Streamlined and sophisticated: LINDBERG presents new elements infused into titanium eyewear. www.lindberg.com
A special Limited Edition in a variety of beautiful colourations is a highlight by Australia’s Jono Hennessy. www.jonohennessy.com
Sensational surprises at theo with Matali Crasset’s collection – Trait d’union – for the Belgian brand, radiant with colour in stainless steel. www.theo.be
A symphony of synergy, lightness and technical achievement hallmark the latest designs in the Line Art Collection by Charmant. www.charmant.com
SILMO Paris – the French eyewear fashion event of the year takes place at Paris Nord Villepinte 28th September – 1st October. Further details at www.silmoparis.comJG
Handmade eyewear, of our time: Patinated Copper with Aluminum Magnesium
Ti Kwa’s commitment to design innovation is increasingly recognised across the industry and in the upper echelons of the optical retailing community and he continues to quietly push the boundaries in his work in materials, textures and specialist production techniques, with resounding individuality and an unmistakable style.
This September, his label RIGARDS explores an exceptional copper material finish with a gently-toned verdigris in a model designed for avant-garde fashion designer Ziggy Chen (RG1911CU), based on an existing “small and narrow” shape in the collection that has come to be known as the ‘Mad Scientist’.
The finish, a tribute to Bronze Age ritual vessels and their weathered slightly mottled greenish tones, appears in a unique way in all the models as the copper takes the patina finish differently from frame to frame.
“We added an interchangeable clip-on,” explains the designer. “Made from ultralight aluminum-magnesium — it locks onto the frame front and converts the glasses from optical frame to sunglasses. Two small side holes hold an eyeglass chain, allowing the sun-clip to double as jewellery.” Both the glasses and the clip-on can be fitted with lenses through built-in openings, part of RIGARDS’ exclusive screwless spring-hinge mechanism designed to ensure the product is both aesthetically pleasing and maintenance-free.
RIGARDS (from Hong Kong) was first launched in 2012, and exhibited their handcrafted buffalo horn eyewear months later at SILMO, the Paris eyewear fair (see our first story in 2012 at https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/rg0006/ ). Designer Ti Kwa has a refreshingly different perspective on design and has gradually opened eyes to the possibilities in creating exclusive artisan pieces with a distinctive modern approach to production techniques and eyewear aesthetics. RIGARDS exhibits at SILMO (Paris) and Paris Fashion Week. Don’t miss this collection: https://rigards.com CN
Hall of Frames Zurich returns to its roots – the historical and refurbished location Papiersaal – that was originally an ageing paper factory – to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the show. Organiser Nathanael Wenger reflected: “During the years, opticians all over Switzerland have supported our event, even during different moves inside the city. The event grew slowly, but now we have over forty independent brands, some whom have been with us since the beginning.”
Wenger is particularly delighted that more and more Swiss designers have joined the show. Some are Newcomers – Baselli, Fassungswerk, Specs Lab and Nirvan Javan – while other brands are well established and include Götti, Didier Voirol, Einstoffen, and Von Arkel. “We are proud that these companies show their collections at Hall of Frames Zurich along with many other well-known labels,” said Wenger.
The two-day event will showcase unique eyewear brands featuring artisan quality, creative imaginations, and enticing styling. Koali by Morel Lunettes introduces stunning new optical and sun designs (above photo) in a collection that is rich in beautiful colourations and shapes. www.morel-france.com
German designer Anne Dickhardt creates fabulous bags…and innovative, fun and useful eyeglasses cases (above) in elegant natural materials, with a welcoming sense of humour. www.any-di.com
Blackfin’s latest collection is highlighted with new craftsmanship processes and stylistic features. A unique frame structure reflects masterful technology with Leven BF850 – an innovation that anchors the beta titanium bridge to the titanium rims. www.blackfin.eu
Hungarian brand Vinylize introduces sleek geometric shapes in octagonal, square and round variations. The Vinylize signature vinyl record exterior on Roach (above) is individualised with graceful sculpted temples. Handcrafted in Budapest. www.vinylize.com
Mark the dates – now! 7th and 8th October at Papeiersaal in Zurich for the 10th anniversary celebrations of Hall of Frames Zurich. Seize the moment and experience skilfully gifted eyewear collections – from long-time favourites – as well as new and talented independent designers. www.hallofframes.ch JG