Fun yet classic, with focus turned to sustainable, energy-efficient production as well as charming, easy-to-wear design, the second capsule by Gemma Styles and Kenmark Eyewear is announced with a further 5 timeless shapes, in youthful colours including honey, watermelon and caramel. Styles says she focused on the longevity of the shapes, making sure they could be loved and enjoyed by their owners for years to come.
“The Young Ones” – a petite acetate cat eye – pictured above in carbon: “The inspiration for this shape was a photograph of my grandma from the early 1970s” says Styles.
Continuing the theme of the first collection, each sunglass is named after songs from Styles’ personal favourite playlist that embody the look and feel of the frame. Gemma also wanted to give back to a cause near and dear to her heart, mental health.
To do so, she created a special ‘Find the Light’ style (‘Don’t Stop’ in Caramel) specifically to donate 10% of the proceeds to mental health research. It was important that this style had a positive song association.
The first line created as a collaboration between influencer/writer Gemma Styles and Kenmark Eyewear launched in 2018 with four styles. The new sunglass designs are available exclusively at www.baxterandbonny.com from the official launch date of 7th August 2020. For more information about Kenmark visit www.kenmarkeyewear.com
While small-scale brands enjoy popularity among consumers who seek authenticity, quality and style, these labels are also seeing more and more opportunity to propose bold statement designs, with interesting colours and a more individual look, even in these times of global pandemic.
Certainly, growth in timeless, unisex classically oriented specs and sunglasses is expected where economic recession looms, and a desire to play things safe may become the status quo. However, smaller independent labels continue to tell us that their specialist designs – those that offer a different more unique style focus, are still very much in the running when it comes to current purchasing trends. Some have even cited lifestyle changes such as our continued use of Zoom – where the camera hones in on the upper body and face – as precipitating a trend for more adventurous specs choices and a shift toward colour and more impactful, memorable shapes.
Above: SOL SOL ITO model 048 offers a new interpretation of a 70s square eye shape in daring tones of red, hippie gold or blue – the sunglass style is eye-catching for its novel shaping but also for its beautifully curated colour palette – if wearing with a mask then coordinate colours carefully. www.solsolito.com Photo by Hans Hansen
For an unforgettable statement, the bold signature shaping of a floating lens mount is the eye-catching focus of the Regumbo by l.a.Eyeworks – a frame that is as extraordinary as it is aesthetically exciting. The dazzling colour choices range from the classic black to a soft delicate powder pink and absolutely adorable patterned ‘Merry Mix’. Visit www.la-eyeworks.com
Elongated narrow 90s inspired sunglasses have been around for a while now and are still a staple for Gen Z. The colourful versions which offer a funkier spin (AF17 above by Reflect Eyewear) are a particularly desirable statement-making style accessory this summer with growing appeal for all ages and sexes. The Newquay comes in black and coral red – and has decent UV protective lenses at a very competitive price. Find more 90s inspired shapes in this genre for men and women at www.reflect-eyewear.com
A neo-retro artisan collection of frames by a Toulouse optician/designer
A small roster of young French artisan brands are making waves in Europe, several of which are the work of independent opticians, combining their technical knowledge and passion for their work with a love of design and handcrafted traditions of making spectacles – passed down through generations.
Kley’s lunettes françaises is a label by Simon Bousquet, a French optician from Toulouse. “I was looking for an original design for an acetate frame, and the Kley’s nose was born!” he told Eyestylist. “With this design, the optician can adjust the nose fitting and increase the comfort to fit each face. Each style is named after a member of my family…”
Above: Dany Sun by Kley’s – every frame has the distinctive adjustable acetate nose fitting
The style of the collection is a delicate mix of a retro look with contemporary lines defined by slim, light stainless steel temples – and a fine, balanced, timeless colour palette. Elegant and characterful, the subtle yet distinctive nose fitting is combined with other artistic features: a very small delicate design at the temple in metal – described as “un clin d’oeil” or “blink of the eye”, a sign that links with the words which form the name “Kley’s” : clé (key) in French, and from English, “key” and “eyes“.
The Kley’s “family” of frames is made in the Jura (France), each design engraved with the words ‘Produite en France‘ on the temples. An authenticity card is also provided to show the provenance of the product. Today Kley’s is available in a handful of exclusive boutiques across France including L’Oeil de L’Odon (Aunay sur Odon), Colombette Optique (Toulouse), Lunetterie Laurent (Nimes) and Le Comptoir de la Lunette (Beauvais) to name a few. Look out for this label in future! To find out more visitwww.kleys-eyewear.com
The annual Zurich eyewear fair at Papiersaal + Folium (Sihlcity) is confirmed for 13-14th September 2020
European optical events update: As the optical business continues to see cancellations of some trade fairs, it’s a heart-warming pleasure to see our friends at the Hall of Frames, Zurich fair confirming their dates for September 2020, in Switzerland. The friendly, intimate atmosphere of this event presents a popular setting for opticians and brands alike. Reuniting industry representatives soon after the summer and bringing together new releases and new innovative concepts in eyewear by specialist independent designers is always an important element of the Hall of Frames show and is likely to be an even greater draw for visitors this year, as the European optical business gets back on its feet after difficult months of crisis, closure and lockdown.
After more than 10 years, HOF Zurich has established itself as a platform for independent opticians and eyewear designers in Switzerland, and owes much of its success, say the organisers, to a constantly evolving format. In particular, the fair has brought together and strengthened the “alternative” market for spectacle frames in the region. This year HOF has announced a new partnership with Reize Optik with the Nikon ‘lens’ brand and a new collaboration with Dynoptic (www.dynoptic.ch/de), a network of 100 opticians from across Switzerland.
Hall of Frames has been officially recognised for its ecological footprint (www.saubere-veranstaltung.ch). This year, all emissions will be calculated and offset via ‘myclimate.org’ making the fair the first event of its kind in optics which is practically carbon neutral.
Exhibitors at the 2020 HOF event in September 2020 promise new designs and new announcements: confirmed brands include Coblens, Didier Voirol, Einstoffen, JF Rey, Kypers, Mykita, Nirvan Javan, YOU MAWO and Orgreen Optics. For more details and to see the full list of exhibitors visit: www.hallofframes.ch – opening hours at the 2-day event are: 13th September 2020 – 10 to 1800 / 14th September 9 to 1600. This article was written by Clodagh Norton, Eyestylist.com – all rights reserved.
Californian luxury concept store partners with SALT. in exceptional sunglasses edition
The new capsule collection produced in a collaboration between the concept store and the Californian eyewear brand is one of the most beautiful eyewear collaborations to launch in 2020, with three sophisticated and timeless designs that pay homage to iconic sunglasses of the past. Above and below: The Trois, the round titanium rimmed silhouette in the trio of new designs in the exclusive collaboration. The Trois – with design elements that evoke the mid-century modern style of the A’maree’s store, is available in black, honey gold, rose gold or traditional silver. The campaign for the collection was shot at A’maree’s in Newport Beach, a distinctive architectural landmark dating back to the 1960s.
The Deux is based on a cateye frame shape with a glamorous fairly oversized silhouette based on the iconic styles worn by Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn. This design is available in antique rose, A’maree’s signature white, black or toasted coffee.
Inspired by the wayfarer of the 1950s, The Un continues an eyewear tradition that has been a staple through the decades. A functional riveted plaque subtly evokes the styling of the era, while the specific sizing allows for a unisex fit. Colours include antique rose, black, indigo blue or toasted coffee.
All styles in the line are produced to the highest quality in Japan and feature premium materials, Japanese components and polarised lenses with backside A/R coating.
About A’maree’s – Located at Newport Beach, the family-owned luxury store has grown from a tiny boutique into a high fashion force, known across America. The store is still run by Nancy and daughters Apryl and Dawn who bring together art, fashion labels and accessories from across the world. They include one-off jewellery pieces by Alan Faye, hats by Italian brand FILU and Christina Kim’s dosa clothing and accessories. The sunglasses edition is available at A’maree’s (www.amarees.com) and selected boutiques/optical stores. For more information about the collection visitwww.saltoptics.com
Must-haves for aficionados of the Danish label’s lightweight design
LINDBERG sun titanium celebrates a mood of avantgarde chic with statement shapes and intriguing fashion combinations for blissful summer days. The latest collection by the luxury Danish label is a creative playground, founded on the signature LINDBERG craftsmanship and care for quality, reduced weight and fine artisan finishing. With modernist overtones, the pronounced shapes and proportions unite with an array of brilliant colour pairings and delicate transparencies which dress the face with elegance and a bold fresh vision. Above: LINDBERG 8328, a cat-eye inspired, 5-sided eye shape. The transparent frame and angular form has a dramatic beauty on the face
Model 8327 plays with an interesting contrast where the thick transparent rim can be teamed with a brightly toned lens, according to each customer’s requirements. The very slim titanium temples contrast with the uniquely glamorous elongated square eye shape.
The hexagonal 8588 provides the classic, minimal, couture style of a LINDBERG frame in a light, comfortable construction with a shape that is versatile yet perfectly on point. All LINDBERG sun models are fitted with premium sun lenses to ensure optimal vision and exceptional glare protection, throughout the day. Find more sunglasses and ophthalmic styles at www.LINDBERG.com
A collective initiative by some of the most prominent designers in eyewear in the US brings together some favourite and iconic optical frames in a look book celebrating materials, colours, and imaginative shapes. The edition is a reminder that while public health concerns necessitate the masking of the face, the eyes are now ‘the centrepiece of communication and beauty’.
The project is the work of edCFDA, a group of independent eyewear designers within the CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America), and has resulted in a showcase of memorable, individualistic styles from their current collections an expression of creativity, craftsmanship and fashion flair in eyewear design – from LA, Miami, and NYC.
Participating designers and their brand namesakes include: Ahlem Manai-Platt (Ahlem), Barbara McReynolds & Gai Gherardi (l.a.Eyeworks), Blake Kuwahara (Blake Kuwahara), Christian Roth & Eric Domège (Christian Roth), Jeff Press (Morgenthal Frederics – Robert Marc), Patty Perreira (Barton Perreira), Selima Salaun (Selima) and Shane Baum (Leisure Society).
The initiative also offers a timely reminder on the importance of eyewear care and suggests more regular and thorough cleaning of frames by wearers during the Covid-19 epidemic. It highlights the professionalism of fine independent opticians in approaching the creative styling of fashion eyewear with an elevated sensibility about hygiene and client safety at this time when stores have reopened with new protocols such as social distancing and greater availability of private appointments and contact-free consultations. Find out more: https://cfda.com/news/view-the-edcfda-digital-lookbook
From high-tech sun-clips, combination designs (Polyamide fronts with titanium sides are popular) through to new collections by a healthy number of different types of company, the 3D printed eyewear choices are clearly pleasing wearers. The key properties of lightness and comfort alongside a growing variety of design options point to ongoing growth in this field where evolving design styles and more individualistic looks are now more readily available.
Above: Launched this month : Gotti Switzerland’s refined new sun clip (designed for models DAGO / DALE) – in titanium and 3D printed polyamide, offered in 12 colours and 4 different lens tints – www.gotti.ch
Modo’s 3D Lab collection, announced in June 2020, is the first 3D printed line in this company’s portfolio and is described as utilizing the latest in additive manufacturing. A wide choice of colours and styles are featured as is typical with 3D printed, with preference given to a high-tech matte surface. Temples are produced in beta titanium balancing the Polyamide front and creating – overall – a sleak and minimal finish. Find out more: www.modo.com
Start-ups have also taken a keen interest in the potential of 3D printing in eyewear – and highlight the sustainable production and ease of customization for sizing and fit. We’ve identified a selection of small labels like Liq Eyewear (www.liq-eyewear.es); started initially as a small project by Josep Mateo Muñoz, product designer at Creax Design, a design and innovation studio in Barcelona, the team has taken the line further to launch it online and through opticians – so far in Mallorca, Ibiza, Barcelona and locations in mainland Spain. A modern, cosmopolitan style balances fashion and technology in frames which are easy to wear, and produced “on demand” with reduction in waste. For more of the latest 3D printed product news follow our updates – For our latest review featuring 3D printed sunglasses (Côte du Soleil edition by neubau eyewear) visit: https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/06/maurice-by-neubau/CN
Delicate, mixed hues continue to trend in women’s eyewear and recent releases show a distinct rebirth of airy mottled tones and colour variants with transparencies. At a time when flattering easy-to-wear styles will be widely appreciated, these fresh ultra-modern palettes offer uplifting new modes for sophisticated feminine styling. Above: Veronika Wildgruber model Rachel in ‘pastel’. Two transparencies combine in a confident minimal shape with highlighted top bar. Find more designs at www.eyewear.veronikawildgruber.com
The new model Freda at Andy Wolf (Ultra Light – White Heat Collection) combines the very narrow two-tone metal frame with characteristic acetate nose bridge of this range and the matching acetate tips. The line uses custom acetates with unusual colour accents such as the Springtime-inspired design above combining yellow, pink and green. www.andy-wolf.com
Fleye’s beautifully considered colour palette and playful tonal contrasts explore natural hues and, in the latest models in the Signature Collection, the translucent Nordic light – captured in works by the 19th century Skagen painters. Model Lukas has an earthy texture, reminiscent of a classic tortoiseshell, with a lighter more translucent clarity. Find out more about these frames which were due to preview at the cancelled Mido fair in February at www.fleye.dk
In the brand new releases at Volte Face Paris this month, the spectacle styles like Orely mix exclusive colours and unexpected transparencies to showcase French craftsmanship and artisan details, with chic patterning (some designs are directly inspired by contemporary textiles) and a subtle asymmetrical twist. Find out more about this new-look line at www.jfrey.fr
@boyfromdagbon x @davidnyanzi shoot with streetwear brand Covrt Project in Piccadilly, London
Out of lockdown, and back on the street: Covrt Project, the emerging British streetwear brand, returns with its first shoot post-quarantine in central London by photographers @boyfromdagbon x @davidnyanzi.
The featured Covrt sunglasses from the award-winning _Mission One collection 2020 include the MP1 style, a black CNC milled steel frame with Base 2 visor lens. The innovative design of the lens is a unique element at the bridge influencing the overall shape of the sunglasses; bolted on with visible screws to the front it’s also cut away at the top and bottom, lightening the structure and creating a different and defining style-driven look.
Covrt Project eyewear is designed by Marcello Martino in London and produced exclusively in Italy. The first collection is available at high-end optical stores in UK, France, Italy and Germany – and online at www.covrtproject.com
Eyestylist.com joins with Covrt Project in a special giveaway on Instagram – from Wednesday 10th June at 9am (GMT). For a chance of winning this pair of award-winning sunglasses, visit our Instagram page at @eyestylistmagazine between 10th and 13th June 2020. For more information: www.covrtproject.com
Different materials are arriving as the sustainability conversation evolves
‘Eco-friendly’ materials in eyewear are advancing, with new additions applying processes of recycling, repurposing and upcycling or exploring plant-based opportunities with a sustainable goal. This follows the fashion industries gradual introduction of materials such as bio leathers, bamboo and hemp, the use of corn starch, castor oil, roots of mushrooms (MycoTEX), bananas and pineapples and a much greater acceptance of recycled and repurposed material with more regular use of off-cuts, scraps and waste parts that would normally be thrown away.
Here are 3 independent European eyewear labels – using different eco-oriented methods and material combinations to create an alternative sustainable style (Above: EOE Eyewear – Regrind – photo credit: Farago & Farago).
1. EOE Regrind (Swedish Lapland)
EOE Regrind sunglasses are made from old, surplus eyewear. The frames are collected, sorted and then undergo a “grinding” process to produce new blocks of raw material. The colorations of the new models depend on the predominant colours of the old frames and how they are mixed. The first edition of Regrind sunglasses was a chic mainly black fashion collection with tiny flecks of coloured plastic. EOE Eyewear has extended the collection to include ophthalmic models as well as sunglasses in 2020. Find out more: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/09/exclusive-regrind-by-eoe-eyewear/www.eoe-eyewear.com
2. Ferilli Eyewear (Italy)
Ferilli is an Italian label working with cactus. Their frames are made exclusively in Italy and have a delicate finish with the natural patterns of the plant. Their new line called “Aéras” ( “air” in Greek) is composed of six models created in prickly pear “cactus” and ebony and is dedicated to the most picturesque villages of Puglia. www.ferillieyewear.com
3. Ochis Coffee (Ukraine)
Max Gavrilenko founded Ochis Coffee Eyewear in 2018. The eco brand uses reusable organic materials – flax and coffee – as an alternative to plastic. A soybean oil based glue is used for the assembly. The frames are biodegradable and give off a natural subtle coffee aroma. www.ochiscoffee.com CN
The Austrian brand – Rolf Spectacles – who have pioneered the production of fine wood and horn spectacles made through a precise balance of technical innovation and time-honored artisan techniques, since 2009, is adding a new material to its collections in 2020.
The label, which has also developed its own unique collections using stone and 3d printed titanium is now adding a line made from a natural plant-based material taken from a species of the Euphorbiaceae family (commonly known as spurge), with exciting sustainable credentials.
“The plants are grown in tropical climates without any kind of genetic engineering, they don’t compete with food crops, and they can grow very tall, very quickly: where a spruce or a beech will only grow a few centimeters taller every year, this remarkable plant will shoot up six metres in just four months, and it comes back every year,” explains company founder and visionary Roland Wolf. “This makes the new material more sustainable and kinder to the environment than ever – and the perfect foundation upon which to build a new collection of glasses…”
The new 3d printed Substance collection by Rolf comprises 23 flexible natural skin-friendly frame styles in 6 colours and makes a highlight of the refined design typical of a Austrian-made Rolf product, as well as the unique Flexlock hinge. Find out more about Substance at www.rolf-spectacles.com