Eyestylist

Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

2nd April 2020

Claire Goldsmith on her family legacy

Since 1926, fans of the Oliver Goldsmith label have been drawn to the pure heritage style and signature design flair of this British brand which continues under the direction of Claire Goldsmith, the great granddaughter of the founder. Claire took the business under her wing in 2005, leaving a steady regular job to reignite the tremendous legacy and style of her family’s historic company.

In a new video, Claire talks about the origins of the business, the release of Oliver Goldsmith “sunspecs” at Fortnum & Mason in Picadilly in London in the late 1930s, and the appearance of OG in Vogue in 1942 – the first acknowledgment by a fashion magazine of the potential of spectacles as a statement style accessory.

Above: The iconic OG style Yatton – first created in London in 1964 – has been re-released in the gorgeous colour combination described as White Christmas Maze. The soft geometric shaping of the design provides the iconic dramatic glamour typical of the Oliver Goldsmith label. https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/yatton/

The video (above) – ‘An introduction to Oliver Goldsmith by Claire Goldsmith’ – includes rare footage and imagery of early OG designs, and the most famous people who have worn the glasses through the last decades…personalities who include musicians, actors, actresses and members of the royal family whose eyewear was a natural enhancement to their style and personality.

Today, the Spring season brings new colourful releases to the iconic OG collection which preserves its history and artisan quality, in designs reignited through the label’s extensive and carefully preserved archives – and the intricate skill and technological benefits of modern eyewear crafting. In the Decades collection, this thick rimmed round sunglass style pays homage to the 1930s, and the Hollywood stars of the era. The frame is handmade in Japan from acetate and comes with 2-base flat 100% UVA/UVB lenses with backside AR coating.

One of the most famous styles in the Oliver Goldsmith repertoire, the Manhattan sunglasses – represent classical statement style with the perfect timeless balance of shape and colour. As well as the iconic dark and light tortoise versions, the Manhattan sunglasses are made in contemporary tones of mocha or the delightful ‘rain’ colour – a delicately mottled blue/black finish. Find out more about the iconic specs and sunglass styles by Oliver Goldsmith and visit the online store at www.olivergoldsmith.com

Vintage-infused, 4 different ways

30th March 2020

Timeless, detail conscious, with a peerless level of craft

Four distinctive shapes, created with luxury materials and precise artisan workmanship. The quality of eyewear designed with dedication and exceptional attention to detail, as it was in past decades, continues to garner attention, underlining traditional values with reflection on genuine workmanship and innovation.

At the German company Coblens, the metal collection ‘Schiffahrtsstrasse’ – with focus on titanium, made in Japan – presents very narrow rimmed classic shapes this season – where every detail is visible, functional and reliable. Aviator and pilot shapes as well as round and multi-sided vintage-inspired glasses provide looks for everyday and multiple face shapes. Above: the soft octagononal model Mole in the Titanium collection, Schiffahrtsstrasse by Coblens. The octagon is a lovely flattering shape which is currently enjoying a resurgence. www.coblens.com

Gauloise by Lafont Paris – glamorous patterning and a monochrome colour palette

The classic shaping of model Gauloise by Lafont Paris is enriched with artistic colour combinations or fabric effects, which add subtle sparkle and delicate light reflections. Visit www.lafont.com for more details on the new luxurious classic styles in their extensive artisan eyewear collection.

Berwick by Savile Row – hand polished rhodium

The Berwick is an iconic design in the British-made Savile Row collection. Offering clean lines with its beautiful architectural brow line and rectangular eye shape the frame has a statement elegance which is both alluring and flattering, highlighting the line of the wearer’s natural brow line. Find a selection of classic spectacles, monocles and sunglass clips in their online store at www.savileroweyewear.com

Christian Roth – Round-Wav in Amber Smoke – described by Roth as a ‘spacey oval’

Christian Roth continues to present exceptional pieces of design as a part of Dita Group; deconstructing its own precious archive of frames and re-imagining a new paradigm of style. The oval shape of Round-Wav (available as an ophthalmic or sunglass style) is a common thread in Roth’s collections and is significant now as one of the favourite trending ‘vintage’ inspired looks. Roth’s designs have been worn by a host of celebrities in the last decades including Kate Moss, Lenny Kravitz and Kurt Cobain, who wore the iconic oval Series 6558. For more information: www.christianroth.com

Einstoffen

20th March 2020

A pledge to show support of independent retailers in the COVID-19 crisis with donation from online sunglass sales

Young Swiss eyewear label Einstoffen is taking immediate action in light of the global health crisis by donating a percentage of their online sunglasses sales back to their long-term optical partners.

Philippe Rieder told Eyestylist: “We have decided to support our customers in these difficult times as much as our strengths allow. From 18th March to 19th April 2020, 50% of the turnover of each pair of sunglasses purchased online will be credited to the opticians in the town where the purchase has been made.”

“We do not want to benefit at the expense of our partners. Our corrective frames will continue to be available only in specialist shops but we hope that this percentage of our online sunglasses sales could at least help alleviate our customers’ losses in some way…”

This spring, the brand has launched its biggest collection yet: ‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ with 40 new styles in titanium, wood acetate and steel. It celebrates independent minds and free spirits with forward-thinking designs, unusual materials and material combinations, with a focus on easy-to-wear design with the occasional ‘surprising twist’.

‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ stays true to the signature Einstoffen style, mixing natural resources with technical materials and easy-fitting shapes. New eye-catching details include very detailed micro-engravings, sprayed titanium, lenses in multiple colours and tiny wooden inserts. Find out more about the collection at www.einstoffen.ch

EINSTOFFEN is a young eyewear and fashion brand founded in 2008 by four friends from Switzerland. Inspired by nature, art, film and music, the brand has since created shirts, glasses, sunglasses, T-shirts and watches for cosmopolitan individualists with a sense of humour. “In our eyes, eyewear and streetwear, nature and urbanity, Swiss quality awareness and a pinch of extravagance go together very well.”

Eco trend: neubau + natural3D

16th March 2020

The eco choices in eyewear continue to widen and neubau eyewear from Austria – one of the young innovative companies focusing on eco-friendly design, has just added to its selection of materials with their own new 100% bio-based ‘natural3D’. A special edition sunglasses collection has been released to show off the fresh relaxed styling and fresh Spring-infused colours available, with 3 models – Romy (above on model), Maurice and Alain.

Oversized and glamorous in new eco-friendly material: model Romy by neubau

What is ‘natural3D’? The all-new material, natural3D by neubau eyewear, is created via an innovative and sustainable production process. The surface is skin-friendly with smooth sealed edges and vibrant colour intensity which will not fade. The material is formed using the oil extracted from the castor oil plant’s seeds. The resulting powder derived during this extraction is merged together layer by layer by a laser during 3D printing and any excess material is then reused for additional frames (ensuring zero waste).

Laid-back chic styling: model Greta from neubau eyewear, one of four new optical styles

neubau eyewear has also launched four new optical styles in the new eco-friendly material, available from April 2020. The frames are named after environmental activists. For mode details visit www.neubau-eyewear.com

Art works: l.a. eyeworks, California

11th March 2020

‘The lens cleaning cloth re-imagined as a canvas for creative action’

l.a. Eyeworks – whose long-term commitment to the art world has evolved through many years via an exciting legacy of collaborations with visual innovators – artists, illustrators, graphic designers and photographers – has a fresh line-up of art inspiration coming our way shortly. The brand has commissioned Los Angeles-based artists Liz Young and Julian Hoeber, and designer Gere Kavanaugh, an AIGA Medalist to create new designs for their cleaning cloths accompanying all their Spring 2020 eyewear and sunglass styles.

Above: the design by Gere Kavanaugh, a prolific voice in the history of American design, Gere Kavanaugh’s pioneering spirit and talents have touched almost every aspect of the discipline. A unifying thread throughout Kavanaugh’s work is the designer’s passion for colour (“I could eat colour”), bountifully represented in this explosive, fractal composition.

Julian Hoeber – ‘sampler of eyes’ design

Julian Hoeber’s artwork for the iconic eyewear label explores the mysterious territory between oppositions – organic and inorganic, conceptual and experiential – as a way to illustrate the workings of the human mind. Hoeber’s sampler of eyes is described as “representing a journey from a literal self-portrait along a path of historical and pop culture references to an almost complete (and yet recognizable) abstraction”.

Working in diverse media, often with labor-intensive methods, artist Liz Young focuses on themes that evoke the beauty, fragility, and inevitable decay of nature and the human body. Perhaps metaphorically referencing the American West, Young’s photograph of a horse’s eye captures a moment of stillness, a poetic pause between vitality and decline. Find out more about l.a. Eyeworks at www.laeyeworks.com

SALT. Optics – into Spring/Summer

9th March 2020

The natural landscapes of California and the colours and textures of endorheic basins of the world have inspired a new mood and colour palette in the C1-20 collection of eyewear.

Inspired by effortless beauty, and the natural formations and colours of endorheic basins – the characteristic of which is usually a saline lake or salt flats, the new releases at SALT. bring together two key characteristics, stylish design with a high-class, lasting finish. The collection, which includes new optical and sunglass shapes, is made in Japan, where producers create the frames according to time-old traditions.

Above: the Hillier sunglasses by SALT. Optics are named after the lake in Middle Island, Archipelago of the Recherche, Western Australia – a classically chic oval shape fitted with polarized CR39 gradient lens – available at https://saltoptics.com/products/hillier-tt

Hillier Sun – available in black, taupe, antique rose and toasted toffee

The smallest details, right down to the pins visible at either side of the front of the frames are distinctive in their quality and finish set flush into the surface of the acetate. Alongside classic tones of black and indigo blue, hues inspired by the colorations of salt flats and lakes include taupe, smoke grey, whiskey and woodgrain.

Fuller 50 in black and Fuller 48 in taupe – Collection 1 2020

Model Fuller – available in tones which include black, smoke grey, tortoise grey and woodgrain – is one of the classic 1960s infused shapes in the collection, created in multiple sizes for a wide variety of faces. The thin clean lines of the silhouette – which has a delicate key hole bridge – define the signature timeless aesthetic of SALT. VIew model Fuller at: https://saltoptics.com/products/fuller-50-rx-tg

SALT. Optics optical and sunglass collections are designed in California and made in Japan. The models in Collection 1 2020 are available through selected optical retailers and online at www.saltoptics.com. CN

Exclusive collection: EOE 10th Anniversary

6th March 2020

Collection 2020: re-edition of ‘favourite styles’ with elegant contemporary finish – a celebration of the sustainable label’s 10th Anniversary

One of eyewear’s innovative ‘treasures’, creative, pioneering, and committed to excellence in design, EOE Eyewear is celebrating 10 years in the optics business with inspirations in art and beautiful, wearable signature eyewear collectibles. Among the re-edition frames, each one updated with special nuances and nature inspired hues, are models Burträsk and Abisko – created in two special editions.
The EOE Eyewear brand started in 2010 when Erik and Emilia Lindmark were taking a snowmobile ride outside the small village of Ammarnas in northern Sweden. The white and softly rolling landscape gave birth to the idea of an eyewear brand that would combine inspiration from the barren nature of Lapland with the fastidious elegance so significant for Scandinavian design.
To mark the special Anniversary, EOE Eyewear has also been developing a special artistic collaboration. Finnish artist, Linda Linko has worked to translate some of the most evocative places and materials of their homeland which have inspired the EOE co-founders Erik and Emilia Lindmark throughout their first 10 years. Her work (above) will appear in packaging and cleaning cloths in 2020.

Burträsk is the cool cateye of the EOE Eyewear “family.” Inspired by Emilia’s grandpa, this dramatic feminine statement frame is now reissued in a new material, made entirely from waste products from inside the EOE Eyewear factory.

The light modified cat’s eye shape of the second Burträsk edition is a wonderfully creative interpretation of this dramatic shape, with a lightness achieved through the open sections above the lenses and the narrow semi-rimless structure of the smooth metal which frames the top rim.

Model Abisko is named after a village located north of the Arctic Circle, a place known for spectacular views of the aurora borealis. The newly updated aviator shape has a very fine chic profile and highlights the U-shape of the Lapponian Gate, a striking element of the local landscape. Produced in a wonderful trendy green tinted titanium, the new edition also has a graduated tinted lens, inspired by the colours of the Northern Lights.

Meanwhile the Abisko Round takes the concept further in an oval eye shape with a uniquely feminine yet minimal design. Inspiration for the subtle delicacy of the light pink-purple lens tone comes from the early morning hues of Lapland’s crisp winter skies.

“All of our frames are sustainably produced and fully recyclable and bio-degradable. EOE of today is considered a pioneer in sustainability. In 2019, we broke new ground when launching REGRIND, a concept which made us the first player in the global eyewear industry to produce new frames made from old ones.” – Emilia Lindmark, EOE Eyewear

For more information visit www.eoe-eyewear.com

Oscar Mamooi: daring splendour

3rd March 2020

The Iceland Collection by Oscar Mamooi: seven outstanding new frames with a bold design, original combination of materials and ‘gleaming’ textures which replicate the beauty of ice – each frame is named after a track by Bjork as a homage to the singer.

Irregular shapes, conceived as a reflection of the connection between man and nature characterise new eyewear work by Italian designer Oscar Mamooi – launched this month. The frames replicate the unexpected, unpredictable forms, structures and jagged edges of icebergs and glaciers, contrasted with the smoothness and tactile experience of pieces of ice. Above: model Unison in the Iceland collection

Oscar Mamooi model Unison: an elongated cat’s eye – rigid and angular lines

The designer has explored advanced technologies and techniques such as hot pressing, creating ad hoc moulds for every single part of the frame. “These parts are then compressed to create the acetate, giving life to surprising volume effects,” says Mamooi.

Oscar Mamooi – Utopia – sunglasses collection 2020: “For those who dare…”

Oscar Mamooi is a multi-talented designer/stylist and illustrator. His love for eyewear dates back several years; in 2014 he designed the Celebration Collection, a tribute to Italian journalist and fashionista Anna Piaggi. See the Iceland Collection at www.oscarmamooi.com

For more about Oscar Mamooi visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/09/anna-piaggi-fashion-influential/

New angles

27th February 2020

Angles, edges, corners. An articulated architectural style. Multi-sided, multi-faceted or softly layered. Whatever will work for you this season, we’re noting a choice of dramatic details and design flourishes defined by geometric lines and clean-cut silhouettes.

Above: SOL SOL ITO sunglasses photographed by Nina-Maria Glahé. The frames are made from high-quality acetate with hand-polished surfaces and all elements processed and refined with painstaking care. www.solsolito.com

The new proposition from Mykita and Helmut Lang offers a deconstruction of a wraparound sunshield with several component parts. The HL002 is curvilinear and fluid with a strong angular style for the design of the temple and side – the model is pictured above in white/silver flash sides with silver flash lenses. For more details visit www.mykita.com

Essedue Sunglasses model 488: Spring 2020 release

Launching this week for the Spring/Summer season the new Essedue range of sunglasses includes hexagonal designs (model 488) and chunky shapes with visible bevelling to create a strong dynamic structured frame design. On-trend colorations include the delicate coral above and some vintage inspired tortoise tones – see more shapes at www.esseduesunglasses.com

Milan Fashion Week – February 2020

24th February 2020

Anything goes is the mantra for 2020 in the women’s sunglass collections. In Milan this weekend, blue skies brought out plenty of eyewear chic on the street outside the shows, and a pleasing breadth of designs to pair with outfits and accessories with pride, purpose and precision. Popular styles included the large square-ish tortoise frames, a variety of mini and maxi rimless styles, very large iconic visors, and a consistent fondness for the 1990s looks. Above: Outside the shows at Milan Fashion Week: Mandy Bork wears oversized visor / Fendi FW20. Photo: Gennaro D’Elia / Eyestylist

Vintage-love: Chloe Lecareux in rimless butterfly sunglasses with black tuxedo suit – *photo by Gennaro D’Elia /Eyestylist*

Vintage-infused styles were popular paired with miniature bags, and a predilection for boyfriend shirts and suits came dressed up with a variety of sunglass statements, from very feminine cat’s eyes to 90s micro “blackouts” which shield the eyes with purpose from the sun (and the cameras).

@mascarada.paris in vintage-look tortoise sunglasses

Fashion blogger “Mascarada Paris” wears quirky oversized sunglasses, a multi-colored top and super baggy boyfriend trousers. (Photo by Gennaro D’Elia/Eyestylist).

Oversized acetate or the classic round and rimless

A good mix of classic eyewear or vintage-infused shapes in Milan suggests that anything really goes this season! See more of our photos from Milan, Italy on our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist. All rights reserved.

Savile Row, London

21st February 2020

Eyestylist returned to Algha Works, London – the home of classical British eyewear

Behind the memorable doors of Algha Works, an historic artisan eyewear factory now surrounded by new builds and wastelands in the East End of London, are some of Europe’s most highly skilled craftsmen and women, making spectacles the traditional way, through years – in some cases decades – of dedication to the meticulous craft.

The building itself has stood the test of time. In 1940, a bomb exploded just outside on Smeed Road and it was described as a miracle that Algha Works – and its extraordinary collection of German-made machinery and specialised tools survived. Today, within the factory’s distinctive graffitied walls, lies a complex artisan operation that remains much as it was in the ’30s, historic and infused with a deep heritage which has brought it consistent recognition and loyalty from customers around the world.

Classic Savile Row: The Beaufort with Windsor rim

Preserving the most classical forms and constructions, delicately tweaked for the contemporary wearer, each of the Savile Row rolled-gold styles today continues to be produced in the old fashioned manner with numerous steps to achieve a final “bespoke-finished” product. Model Beaufort exemplifies the ultimate signature panto shape of the Savile Row collection, worn by a host of well-known faces such as Harrison Ford (as Indiana Jones) and Johnny Depp. Typical of the styles in the line, the frame comes in a choice of gold or rhodium with a choice of colour for the Windsor rim, typically black, chestnut, tortoise or blond. https://savileroweyewear.com/retailshop/beaufort

Elegant, distinguished style: The Panto gold

The Savile Row Panto is unequivocally a star in the collection, worn famously by John Lennon as well as Eric Clapton (the Diaflex Panto version). Engravings, which elevate the unique finish of these retro-infused spectacles, can be applied to parts of the frame such as the bridge (illustrated above) – the operation to create such a delicate and ornate patterning is precise and requires particular expertise – using the very same machines that were brought from Germany many decades ago. Link to The Panto online: https://savileroweyewear.com/retailshop/panto For more details about Savile Row Eyewear visit www.savileroweyewear.co.uk

Eyestylist returned to Algha Works in January 2020. For further details about previous visits to the factory, visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/01/british-eyewear-heritage/

New season at Falvin Eyewear, Denmark

18th February 2020

A sensual soft style evolves in new designs at the luxury brand

The Danish eyewear designer, Birgitte Falvin points to the sensual finesse of her handcrafted frames for Spring/Summer 2020. “A Nordic ambience infuses our new designs, pure and streamlined,” says Falvin. “The Premium Collection unites this mood with precise details, superb Japanese quality and skillful craftsmanship.” Above: Danish model Marina Ohm wears model Venus; photography by Henrik Adamsen.

Patrycja Walczak wears model Uranus by Falvin Eyewear, in delicate rose gold

Falvin’s unisex aviator shape, Uranus, is sleek, sophisticated and commanding in its expression of quality – ideal for all activities – both sports and professional. The structure is oversized with a dramatic square-ish eye shape to suit men and women. The colour choices are typical of the brand with uniquely inspiring luxury pairings which include mat onyx with mat black gold or mat topaz with 24 carat gold.

Sensual silhouette: the new model Venus by Falvin Eyewear with precious rose gold

The soft, sensual form of frame model Venus is interpreted with a light construction, satisfyingly comfy fit, and a striking matt and shiny finish to symbolise charisma and subtle personality. FALVIN offers the additional possibility of a fully customised design, decorated with sparkling Wesselton diamonds. The brand works in close collaboration with a distinguished Danish jeweller to create the jewellery encrusted frames with a luxurious and compelling expression of individual style.

FALVIN’s exciting new eyewear designs include models Venus and Uranus. The frames will be available at international stockists from Spring 2020. They will show at the trade fair in Denmark: Copenhagen Specs March 7/8. Find out more at www.falvineyewear.com