Eyewear style in the heart of the Portuguese capital
27th July 2011 We have recently come across Óptica do Sacramento, one of the few eyewear boutiques in Portugal to be working with luxury eyewear brands. Opened in 2009, this store is located in the heart of Lisbon, in the fashionable shopping area of Chiado. The store is found in a traditional Portuguese building with high ceilings and huge windows; a refined Marie Antoinette inspired interior features ornate lighting, Venetian mirrors, and a number of interesting vintage curiosities including a classic typewriter.
“The philosophy of this store is to have a wide selection of classic looks that never go out of style,” explains Rui Romão, sales manager, Optica do Sacramento. “We have become well known also for our different, avant-garde, vintage and retro style collections, which include Moscot, Oliver Peoples, Paul Smith, Garrett Leight, Jacques Durand, Paul Frank, Cutler & Gross, Framers, KBL, Jil Sander, and Cheap Monday. We also provide a selection of vintage frames.” One to visit should you be visiting the Portuguese capital. CNwww.opticadosacramento.com Óptica do Sacramento, Calcada do Sacramento, 14, 1200-394 Lisbon, Portugal.
19th July 2011 Mykita has re-opened its Berlin Flagship store featuring a new concept and a Zeiss Relaxed Vision Center. Mykita will collaborate closely with German optical brand Carl Zeiss in the future. The aim, says Mykita is to pool both companies expertise in optics and design, to create cutting-edge new products. An interesting link-up. www.mykita.comCN
Images by paparazzo photographer Settimio Garritano
16th July 2011 An exhibition of images of Jackie Onassis, taken by Italian paparazzo Settimio Garritano has opened at La Conchiglia Gallery, Grand Hotel Quisisana, Capri, Italy. Sponsored by Tod’s the exhibition includes many photographs of Jackie O in typically stylish oversized shades, and they are a treat to see….they show the President’s wife in relaxed mode, shopping, browsing, walking on the beach, sitting in cafe’s…enjoying her time off, happy and relaxed. And every bit the fashion (and sunglass) icon that she was and remains, to this day. If you are not able to visit the exhibition over the summer, I’d recommend taking a peek at some of the images exhibited on the website below.
Image above by Settimio Garritano, featured in the exhibition (sponsored by Tod’s) at La Conchiglia, Grand Hotel Quisisana, Capri, Italy.
Exhibition open until August 20th 2011. For full information and to view images visit www.unmitonelmito.comCN
15th July 2011 City dynamics are changing so rapidly in Paris, that finding a wonderful little bistro that serves great food is becoming rare. So I am extremely fortunate to have Le Tournebièvre virtually on my doorstep! Clodagh and I have been here several times, and thoroughly enjoyed the food and ambience. Talented chef Malaury Sibille and his lovely wife Clara opened this cosy restaurant three years ago. Malaury has won several awards for his cuisine, and Parisians and visitors from foreign destinations appreciate his formidable skills in the kitchen. He uses fresh seasonal ingredients, and there are daily specials. French favourites like escargot, canard and Entrecote are all individually prepared. I’m a great fan of the seafood dishes, and if I’ve been to the gym, then there isn’t too much guilt in indulging in a light and creamy tiramisu for dessert. In summer, al fresco dining on the terrace, with Notre Dame in view, is truly a splendid way to enjoy fine cuisine in a charming Parisian setting. The wine list from an acclaimed caviste adds to the pleasure and culinary delights of Le Tournebièvre. Reservations: +33 (0) 1 44 07 27 34. www.letournebievre.comJG
July Eyestylist has numerous treats in store – a selection of wonderfully eccentric sunglasses and unique ophthalmic frames; a profile on a rising young star in eyewear design; boutiques that Clodagh has discovered in Mexico and Spain; and frames with seaside influences – perfect for summer. Plus, during the month of July, you’ll find notable comments from our “Eyewear Enthusiasts” – wearers tell Eyestylist about their frames and fashion preferences. In City Guides, there’ll be terrace restaurants to discover for summer dining pleasure, plus numerous cultural events. So join us for a month of new adventures! JG
28th July 2011 The launch of Palladium 001 by RVS by V., the Turkish eyewear company headed by designer Vidal Erkohen, comes just as 1960s fashion styling is about to make a serious comeback for A/W. This delicate round model is made from ultra light palladium coloured stainless steel, and is released in six colours. Conceived according to the Golden Ratio (a mathematical calculation), the model has been designed in line with the RVS brand’s commitment to true and timeless design and aesthetics. Retailing in dollars at around $345, and available at a variety of shops including Selima Optique Paris, Silver Lining Opticians, New York, Andre Opticas, Lisbon, and Etiler Optik, Istanbul. We hope to bring you more on this label soon. CN
Surf and Turf is the colour name for this lovely new frame from California based l.a.Eyeworks. Fashion forward eyeglass wearers are flocking to butterfly shapes this summer, and Magpie is ready to take flight! I haven’t tried on this frame, but years of experience with l.a.eyework designs, assures the wearer of perfect fit, and this particular frame is beautifully crafted in luxurious acetate. Magpie is scaled to accommodate petite to medium size faces. However, l.a. Eyeworks perfect handling of shape and line creates the illusion of a much larger frame, making Magpie youthful, lifting, smart and modern. A frame that instantly updates summer fashions! In addition to the seaside tones of Surf and Turf shown above, Magpie is available in delicious shades of Iris Fade and Cherry Bomb, and Kettle Korn and Tortoise Berry Split. www.laeyeworks.comJG
21st July 2011 The sea has many colour moods, and Pierre Eyewear captures the stunning blue of the Pacific in this glossy acetate frame. A classic rectangular shape is enhanced with subtle boldness, giving the design a deluxe mix of modern and retro. Fine craftsmanship, handmade from French artisans, adds to the natural beauty and uncluttered features. An excellent selection of Pierre Eyewear is available at Optique des Entrepreneurs, 39 rue Entrepreneurs 75015 Paris +33 (0) 1 45 78 03 61. For additional information: www.pierre-eyewear.comJG
I have just started researching the autumn trends, and I came across some images produced by Wolfgang Proksch that set a mood of more autumnal fashions and a slightly 60s feel, a decade which is to have a comeback for A/W 2011/12.
The Proksch frame which is already out in the shops is a retro style also with a ’60s spin, yet the sculptured curve of the acetate and the nosebridge brings it right up to date. This German designer has worked for many eyewear labels in the past and launched this new line at Mido in March this year. Photography by Mark Mainz (www.markmainz.com) CN
17th July 2011 I was recently introduced to the French label Struktur by Seamus McClintock of McClintock Eyewear in Covent Garden (www.mcclintock-eyewear.co.uk). Struktur has been created by young French designer Hugh Poillerat. Handmade in a small company in Auxerre, France, the frames offer high quality and exciting patterning and colours and each one makes a special statement. We will be following this guy…more on Struktur coming up soon! The only London stockist I know of so far for this label is McClintock Eyewear. CN
Alexandre Gilbert Management Consultant, Paris, France
15th July 2011 “I think I’ve always worn Rayban sunglasses (Alex, photographed above with Paco, in Rayban style 3211), I don’t remember that I’ve ever had any other brand! When I look for glasses, I start with style, then quality, then price. As a Management Consultant, I wear suits every day for business meetings. However, for evenings and weekends, I like casual, very casual clothes – jeans and a t-shirt, that’s it! If I could be dressed by a favourite designer, it would be Hugo Boss – I actually love his clothes.” JG
14th July 2011 This crisp white acetate frame with slivers of green and sea blue stripes, is lovely for warm summer days. Just to look at it is refreshing! Blue Magic Eye is the brand name for the creative Italian eyewear designs of Guya Montermini and Ciro Tugnoli. I tried on these frames at the eyewear exhibition MIDO – a stylish retro/modern mix, with the side pieces in metal, and end tips in rubberized acetate – great for comfort! JG www.bluemagiceye.com
13 July 2011 “When I’m shopping for frames, I look for a style that fits my face and is not too ‘original’. I used to wear red transparent glasses years ago, but that time is over for me. I have to wear glasses all the time, so they need to look good, be discreet and not too fragile. I wear both ophthalmic and sunglasses, and more and more, I love wearing sunglasses, even without the sun! I always start shopping for glasses at Selima Optic, on rue Vieille de Temple. They always have the frames that nobody else has in Paris, and they know what is good for me. Then if I don’t find what I like, I go where my eyes take me. My favourite brands are definitely Persol and Ray Ban for sunglasses (in the above photo with her dog James, Florence wears Ray Ban). For ophthalmic, I like Paul & Joe, Selima Optic, Tom Ford and Herrlicht. The colours I like best are transparent, light brown and sometimes black, depending on the design. I don’t have a particular fashion style – I follow my daily mood. But I always wear good fabrics – silk, cashmere and linen. This way, whatever you’re wearing looks smart and well cut. I work at home, so I am mostly casual, but when I have meetings I love suits and high heels, with silk lingerie. For fun, it could go from jeans to skirts, Tod’s to Louboutin, depending on the fun!” JG
Paris based writer Mark Tungate explains his love of specs
10th July 2011 “I started wearing glasses when I was 20 years old, and even at that self-conscious age I wasn’t worried that they would make me look unattractive. Many of my role models wore glasses: Michael Caine, Woody Allen, Morrissey of The Smiths – they were the quirky-but-cool faces of spectacle wearing. Even Indiana Jones could be glimpsed in a pair of round tortoiseshell frames while teaching archaeology classes and squinting at runic symbols. Glasses, then, were not inimical to a life of adventure. Just the thing, in fact, for a journalist – which is what I had recently become. My first pair of specs were not unlike Indiana’s. They were resolutely retro, with wire ends that hooked over my ears. I believe they were made by a company called Anglo American. They went very well with the second-hand tweed jacket, chinos and trench coat I’d adopted as my reporter’s “uniform”. Since then, I’ve alway chosen classic frames, although in recent years they’ve been more rectangular than round – more Woody that Indiana, let’s say. I’ve worn glasses by Yves Saint Laurent and Paul Smith, and several pairs by Oliver Peoples – which remains my default choice. The glasses I’m wearing today are of genuine horn and bear the brand name of JLC, my optician on Rue de Bac here in Paris.
After more than 20 years of glasses wearing, I suppose you could say I’m an enthusiast. I certainly have no intention of wearing contact lenses – my glasses are part of my personality, as my wife would confirm. Actually, I’m no longer sure where character ends and image begins. Am I bookish and diffident because I wear glasses? Apart from projecting an image, glasses are practical. Frames hide the dark rings under your eyes. When you need them in the morning, you simply pick them up from the bedside table. You can take them off to rub your eyes. Or you can take them off if you want the world to look like an Impressionist painting. In short, there’s little chance that I will take advantage of the affordability of laser surgery. I don’t know what the future will bring,but I’ll be looking at it through glasses”. JG
Mark Tungate’s next book Branded Beauty:How Marketing Changed the Way We Look will be published by Kogan Page in October 2011
“I’ve been wearing glasses for about twenty years, and I have always worn Lafont. I appreciate the fact that they are reliable – a frame has never broken – and you can always find the type of frame that will suit your face. Plus the employees at Lafont are very professional. As I am happy with Lafont, I’ve never tried to find another brand, and I appreciate having glasses that fit with all life situations. I work in an industrial group, so my fashion style for work is quite classical, but with a touch of modernity. I prefer wearing a nice cashmere sweater rather than a jacket – that would be too formal. I love wearing jeans, which I can do sometimes at work. For leisure, my clothes are quite informal. I try to be both feminine and comfortable.” JG
7th July 2011 “I like the styling of Prada sunglasses, they are large and I like the colour of this particular frame. I purchased these glasses in 2008, and still love wearing them! I always look for UV protection first, and then the style. In order to find the best frames, I like to visit lots of shops! These Prada frames are really great, because they are also excellent for skiing. They are very strong and the lenses are good for snow conditions. Well, I’m really unable to describe my fashion style, because I really don’t have one! For me, it’s a “feeling” about the clothes, particularly about colours and choosing clothes in which I feel good. Overall, I’m classical.” JG
5th July 2011 I am often asked to recommend frames and particularly sunglasses and interesting labels. I am currently sporting a frame that I picked out at Mido, sent through to me by American brand Salt Optics. This shape ticks two important boxes for me – first, it’s chic but wearable and I find that versatility as a working mum is pretty important when it comes to accessories, shoes, sunglasses, bags, everything in fact! The second is it is comfortable and does not leave marks around my nose. I have lots of models that do. This shape fits nicely on my face and its subtle 50s feel is trendy but still pretty classic and easy to wear, whether I’m in jeans or a cocktail dress. www.saltoptics.com CN
5th July 2011 A Preview of Jason Wu’s Resort 2012 Collection, inspired by Puerto Rico, featured his sunglass model Genevieve. It’s always helpful to see a designer’s sunglass range in context and this lovely classic shape works nicely with the bright details and piping, pretty patterns and lace and leather details… a very attractive resort line and promise of a classy sunglass collection by the New York designer for 2012. To see the full collection visit www.jasonwustudio.com
1st July 2011 Our search for top-rate opticians has taken us a long distance from home this time, but to a place for which I have a special fondness (but that’s another story, Mexico is one of my favourite places to visit). In the incredible metropolis of Mexico City is this unique little shop, an inspirational gem in our view, and so it’s very pleasing to share it with our readers. If it was in my neighbourhood I’d be a daily visitor, just for browsing the fine eyewear and touchy feely atmosphere. The opening took place in May and according to owner Jose Juan Castellanos, they are rushed off their feet! Some lovely collections are featured and displayed in a quirky way which reminds me of the colourful arrangements of a fine delicatessen, a traditional book store or the precise presentation of an old-school cake shop! My favourite details are in fact the cake stands in the window, which give special place to individual frame designs.
An extra touch I adore is the blog featuring customers in their frame choices – it’s been done with a true eye for style in eyewear, it is not commercial but beautifully artistic. Find these fabulous frames from the shop on personalities at http://dr-york.blogspot.com/2011_05_01_archive.html
Collections here include many eyestylist favourites including Mykita, L.G.R. and l.a. Eyeworks; I wish we lived nearer, those outside seats for balmy evenings look very appealing. CN
If you would like to be featured in our Boutiques section, please write to us at [email protected] showing a new image of your optical shop.
3rd July 2011 Introducing the first of a number of members of the public who have kindly agreed to be featured on Eyestylist to talk about the frames they love…
Géraldine Dormoy-Tungate, Café Mode Founder
In 2005, a young marketing student was about to embark on a Masters Degree at the prestigious Parisian Institut Français de la Mode. Géraldine Dormoy loved fashion, but had no one with whom to share her interest. So she decided to start an online exchange with people who might have the same interest. “That was the case immediately,” recalls Géraldine, about the launch of Café Mode (www.cafemode.fr). “I started with small posts, then it became a sort of diary of my school year at IFM. I was learning so much about fashion that I wanted to share my feelings with the readers. My luck is that Café Mode was one of the first to talk about fashion in France, so it quickly triggered media interest. Today that would be another story.”
“There has been so many exciting discoveries!”, continues Géraldine; “I didn’t know anything about the business of fashion when I started, so basically everything was a discovery. The most exciting one remains the fashion weeks. I still can’t believe that part of my job is to attend all these amazing shows. Reporting about it on Café Mode and on L’Express Styles website (http://www.lexpress.fr/styles/) is still a great pleasure, season after season.
“I should also talk about glasses. Before working in fashion, I did not really notice them on people, even though I wear them myself. It’s different now; I really like taking street style pictures of people who express their originality through their spectacles. Vive les lunettes!” (Géraldine wears Cutler & Gross in the photo)
Check out Géraldine’s site for regular updates on many areas of fashion. Géraldine just taken on a new role – that of “maman” with the happy arrival of baby Gustave John. And – she’ll continue to keep readers informed about varied and exciting events in the world of fashion on the excellent, elegant Café Mode. JG
I introduced one of of Anna’s designs in May, and I can’t resist showing this one too. Anna was first attracted to sunglasses when she tried on a style by iconic eyewear creator, Christian Roth. Anna has worked for some time designing bespoke luxury frames for a list of private clients including a few celebrity ones. ‘Rose et La Mer’ has caught the imagination of fashion editors with its super luxury design and asymmetrical lounging leopard. It’s a style based on fantasy, fun and humour! At eyestylist.com we look forward to seeing how Anna follows this imaginative style. It seems like there is a rush on at The Optical Wardrobe (www.theopticalwardobe.com) to buy these and they cost SEK 4500 which is about £435. CNwww.annakarinkarlsson.com
Some of you may have noticed that I am a bit of a fan of this label. There is something a bit cheeky about the model Bubbly. Whilst this wonderful vintage-look bug shape would not suit me personally I do think is a great look if you can get away with it. Teamed with this on-trend transparent shocking pink, it’s even better! If you don’t know about Thierry Lasry and you like statement luxury, take a look at www.thierrylasry.com. His clever take on vintage is fun and very creative. Quality of course is paramount and you can always guarantee you are getting the very best acetate, produced by leading Italian producers Mazzucchelli. The brand is available at Liberty (London), and some fine boutiques across the world including Storm in Copenhagen and Galeries Lafayette, Berlin. CN
The epitomy of eccentric eyewear, I am very delighted to be able to present l.a. eyeworks’ fabulous Toluca sunglass. This chic cat, a must-have shape this summer, comes in a very lush striped acetate, a colour referred to as “Blue Purple Friends”. A typical feature of the plastic frames by this company, Toluca features clever milling (the technique used to cut away layers of the acetate material) to give a contoured brow and a decidedly flirtatious design. A frame to make heads turn “from Hollywood to St. Tropez”. Also available in some other imaginatively named colour choices: “wine and grapes”, “nut butter”, and a real stunner for the ladies, “girly pinks”. www.laeyeworks.comCN
On first glimpse this looks like a horn style, but it’s actually a lovely acetate style with the look and patterning of buffalo! Handmade in Italy, the shape is a version of the brand’s already iconic Leonard style, with the undersides cut out. Illesteva was founded in 2009 by Daniel Silberman and born-and-raised New Yorker Jus Ske. The designers strive to push normal boundaries of design by exploring fresh shapes and materials like bamboo, titanium and natural horn. A name that is already much favoured by the fashion elite, the brand is now in London at Matches, Browns and Liberty, and at Box in St Tropez, France. The online shop at www.illesteva.com shows the full collection. CN
An instant eye-catcher, it’s the original lenticular panel designs of the Kinetic Solaire Collection that have brought this sunglass range particular recognition. While a photo really doesn’t do the effect justice, you can just see the kaleidoscopic rainbow colours of the temple panel decorating model Goddess in the image above. I like the combination of classic oversized shape in traditional tortoise fused with the unexpected futuristic moving imagery. Available in six shapes and four classic colours, white, tortoise (pictured), black and aubergine. Recommended retail price: £269.00. Available from the Kirk Originals flagship store at 6 Conduit Street, London W1, just off Regent’s Street. CN
This expressive frame with its dramatic, geometric shape is also known as Full Volume, and it’s easy to understand why! The king of Op Art, Victor Vasarely, a Hungarian-French artist, recognised for his optical illusion art and sculpture, was the inspiration for this superb design by Christian Roth and Eric Domege. As a wearer of ophthalmic frames, I especially like the beautiful flow of handmade black acetate, which is then given additional depth with double sided laminated black on crystal, providing a three dimensional effect. It’s an elegant frame, exuding refinement and beauty. A must for devotées of chic eyewear! It’s also available in delicious colours of purple on blue, honey on beige, and Havana on transparent green. www.christian-roth.comJG
Summer is the season to relish wearing colours that relate to nature – the luscious blue of the sky, the white froth of an ocean wave, the green variations of gardens and trees. Pierre Eyewear translates some of nature’s bounty into a stylish white acetate design, highlighted with tones of aqua and turquoise. The rectangle shape is graceful and easy to wear. Handmade in France, and always produced to his exacting standards, Pierre believes that eyewear should be fun, as well as functional. Available at Optique des Entrepreneurs in Paris. www.pierre-eyewear.com JG
I first discovered Grotesque eyewear at SILMO several years ago, and thought what a creative collection. A short while later, I was choosing glasses at one of my favourite Parisian boutiques – Les Créateurs d’Opta in Montmartre. Optician Annette Hoffmann showed me a Grotesque design that was a “must have” , and I still enjoying wear it. The newest designs include the P-series, with Patty shown above. Transparent acetate is engraved with patterns on the frame front, achieved with superfine CNC-milling tools. The frame captures light beautifully. It’s available in four candy colours – including the glossy pink featured – plus black. Grotesque recently opened their unique shop in Germany, housed in two sea containers (Eyestylist 5 May 2011). Grotesque frames are also available at Créateurs d’Opta www.opta-createurs.com and Auerbach & Steele in London www.auerbach-steele.com. For more information, see www.grotesque-frame.comJG