14th October 2011 I have come across Olga Ljutic-Trentin on my travels recently. Olga opened an optical store in Ontario in August this year. She has succeeded in designing a quirky “destination” store, with statement retro inspired fittings. The shop is stocking lots of brands that eyewear aficionados will love including Claire Goldsmith, Theo, Orgreen and Lindberg and the owner is a true fan of well-designed eyewear.
We were excited to see the sculpture in the shop which was created as an eyewear display, inspired by the orchid, a commission carried out by Jeremy Guy (http://www.jeremy-guy.com/).
Eyewear by Olga, 1 Hurontario Street, unit 5, Mississauga (Port Credit), Ontario, L5G-0A3, Canada
10th October 2011 A great book by Josh Sims that came out a little earlier this year…of course we love the cover featuring Gregory Peck in superb shades. A chapter is included on the iconic Ray-Ban aviators immortalised in Top Gun. Other staple men’s garments discussed include the mac, the trench coat, and classic shoes such as brogues, all of which have shaped the way men dress today.
In the UK the book is widely available priced at £19.95. CN
We have been at two leading shows in Paris during September, the optical show, Silmo, and Tranoi…keeping track of the trends and directions in eyewear and accessories…we hope to share some truly beautiful discoveries in the weeks and months coming up and a true taste of the new mood in frame design that we are very excited about …and now we urge you to enjoy all the different sections we are offering this month. Our Reviews Section features 10 frames we sought out this weekend, our designer of the month, a talented French guy we managed to catch just before the show…and then there’s the boutique of choice this month…a very special trendsetter from L.A…. CN
28th October 2011 The next stop on our Austrian eyewear tour is to meet Klaus Huber, designer at Robert La Roche, the iconic brand who has been creating statement frames since the 1970’s. Klaus shares his design philosophy with Eyestylist.
“My inspiration for designs is life – it means that I travel a lot. In doing so, I let myself be inspired by urban life, even by the city I am living in. Vienna gives me a special attitude towards Imperial life, the culture and arts of a modern global city. Coupled with the past, it is a perfect ‘Viennese mélange’ – a Viennese coffee mixture. My approach to design is, as with sculptors, working on mass, which is brought by condensation or rejuvenation, into flowing forms. For me, haptics (the science applying tactile touch), sensation and control, plus interaction with computer application, is very important; facets and sloping areas guarantee a special look. Even the surface of the frame is specially shaped, which requires the best manual skills. We produce in Europe/Japan to achieve optimum quality. But it is getting more and more difficult to obtain the highest standards with competitive prices.
“Of course, I love to work with acetate – it feels silky, soft and warm. It is the kind of material where you can feel the special process in our glasses. I try to take care of Robert La Roche’s heritage. I don’t see myself as a caretaker. I rather want to bring the spirit of the past into the present, and develop it further into the future.” www.robert-laroche.comJG
26th October 2011 Austria is a country that likes to live in its illustrious past, but in no way is it parochial. Vienna remains a great cultural capital, and throughout the country, creativity and innovation abound. For several eyewear designers, their location in this beautiful country with its legendary history, has an enormous influence on their work and creative endeavours. Eyestylist talks to these award-winning Austrians who are a major force in eyewear. First, we meet Christian Wolf at Rolf Spectacles.
“Everybody on the Rolf team grew up in the Tyrolean Alps, and we love the beautiful environment, and the wide range of possibilities to enjoy nature. The Alps recharge our mind and body, and give us inspiration for our work. Our surroundings deeply influence our attitude and style of work. We want to create something unique in the field of eyewear production. The frames in our collections are all named and inspired by old cars – we love old cars. We have a dream to renovate one old car on each continent, and design a special frame for each one of them.
“We are a young and open-minded team of creative people who love to work with living materials. We place great value on regionalism and that is why we try to produce the frames in our own facilities. A production abroad is not to be considered. We look for special materials all over the world, and the finishing is done locally. We use stone, bamboo, and seven different kinds of wood for our frames. Our newest result is a combination of wood and stone, and who knows what is coming next! We love what we do, and we are who we are!” www.rolf-spectacles.comJG
25th October 2011 Here is another eye-catching tortoise sunglass style which also demonstrates a love of the aviator. We are seeing more and more modified pilot shapes for 2012, both in metal and acetate, with references to the very earliest designs from the 40s and 50s.
Fame by RVS by V., the Turkish label founded by Vidal Erkohen, is a new unisex sunglass model launched this autumn, which we are delighted to introduce on Eyestylist. Erkohen is a vintage eyewear enthusiast, and his own refined designs are handmade to the same quality as the rare vintage frames he has collected from the past.
Model Fame plays with the 2012 trend for round glasses, while also keeping the very popular aviator shape alive in the design of the frame. The outcome, explains RVS, is a shape that resembles protective eyewear of the 50s, worn by welders. These frames were usually fitted with flat lenses, a detail that has been picked up on in the design “because the lenses completed the look of the frame’s flat front beautifully.” Also offered in a gorgeous natural honey tone which we recommend. For more information on this company visit www.rvsbyv.com RVS by V. frames are available at Selima Optique, Paris, StureOptikern, Stockholm, Astrologo Ottica Srl, Roma, and The Monocle Order Inc, www.monocleorder.com. CN
24th October 2011 Eyewear fans eagerly await the arrival in bookstores of Eyewear – a Visual History. This lavishly illustrated edition is the creation of New York collector and designer Moss Lipow. As an avowed collector, Lipow searched across the globe to find glasses that spanned the centuries. He has unearthed the fascinating history of a very practical apparatus, which has evolved into a mesmerizing international business – for those needing corrective lenses, as well as the fashionistas who adore glasses. Available in six languages – English, German, French, Spanish, Italian and Portuguese, this book is an eyewear joy. Published by Taschen. Images by kind permission of Taschen.www.taschen.comJG
20th October 2011 Tortoise is going to be a popular choice in 2012…and while it is traditionally more common in the men’s ranges, the women’s collections have a fair few treats in store…interpretations of tortoise colours and patterns are very luxurious and refined for next year.
I am delighted to have viewed the Vera Wang Salon collection 2012 this month.. featuring the sunglass style above, Paulette, a modified cat with lots of charm, combining tortoise with a contrasting gold side. This elegant model sums up the luxurious mood of tortoise and its more feminine side. www.verawang.com
At the British designer Claire Goldsmith, the exceptional Legacy Collection also features this stand-out design “Irwin”, a unisex shape but we love it as a choice for women….the depth of the patterning is very elegant and the shape is one that will please fans of updated retro. www.clairegoldsmith.com
One other strong example of tortoise that I have picked out is from the German company Lunettes Kollektion who specialise in vintage frames, but have this great modern collection combining characteristics from past and current epochs.The tortoise design Jeunesse Toujours can be worn as an optical or sunglass model. The light tortoise tone is very much on trend, and is extremely attractive paired with the green lenses, discreet but very strong as a style statement. Stunning. www.lunettes-kollektion.com
I have lots of other tortoise favourites at the moment so it is not easy to select just three! I might be reporting back with more favourites soon, for me they are modern-day classics that deserve another renaissance (and another… and another…) CN
18th October 2011 This stylish Germany company, who celebrates its 20th anniversary next year, offers an amazing range of creative frames for men and women, that are especially beloved by artists and musicians. Rainbow acetate in soft tones of lilac and blue (above), give this beautiful shape a gentle luminosity. Handmade in their own factories, Funk Eyewear is dedicated to quality and attention to all the little details that make their eyewear unique. www.funk.deJG
17th October 2011 I do always like to see a new line from the French eyewear company Alain Mikli….and this one certainly carries the character of the fashion designer behind it. The first Jean Paul Gaultier by Mikli Collection features 20 frames – 12 specs and 8 sunglasses…and underlines technical qualities for comfort, and a big injection of individuality in the form of “double” or “triple” temples. Model Evantail is the beauty of the collection with its unique triple temple, and comes in black, lilac and ivory (pictured above) but the sunglasses with double and triple “comb” sides are hot on its trail. Visit www.mikli.com for the video. CN
15th October 2011 Didier Voirol launched his new eyewear range in Zurich at Hall of Frames, with an unusual collection in copper and stainless steel. In the photo above, Didier wears one of his designs, appropriately called ‘Didier’. Voirol’s sculptures are distinguished by a special welding point – and he uses this same technique in his eyewear. For extra durability, the frames are coated in pure iron. www.metalartconcept.comJG
14th October 2011 We caught up with several designers at Hall of Frames, including Guya Montermini and Ciro Tugnoli (above) from Blue Magic Eye in Italy, as they enjoyed a relaxing moment at the Zurich event. Guya, left, wears a lovely Havana grey and violet design, style 3304, while Ciro chose one of the important colours for men this season – a handsome matt green – style 3303. www.bluemagiceye.com
Pascal Jaulent, designer at Face à Face in Paris, jetted into Zurich for the show, and enjoyed a chat about the new collection with HOF organiser Nathanaël Wenger. Pascal wears Print 3, in smart ink blue and green, while Nath is seen in Argus, a sleek frame from Danish creators Orgreen. www.faceface-paris.comwww.orgreen.dkwww.hallofframes.chJG
Special thanks to photographer Gilles Stussi for images at Hall of Frames.
13th October 2011 There is a subtle, yet profound change in men’s eyewear – designs are more adventuresome, and so are the colours. This was evident at Hall of Frames in Zurich, so we asked several designers, their colleagues and friends – what frames/sunglasses are you wearing now? Here are some of the favourites:
Left to right: Dominique Kasper wears Malawi in black from Paul and Joe, Dirk Geissmann sports Pitch Pole, an all carbon frame from Blac, and Hall of Frames Organiser Nathanaël Wenger favours Special Edition sunglasses from Strada del Sole. www.wenger-eyewear.chwww.stradadelsole.ch
Designer and founder of Entourage of 7, Jakob Talbo, is partial to Hank in matt black from his own collection. www.eof7.comJG
12th October 2011 Metal specs are bouncing back as a top trend, and I am impressed to see how much some labels have put into developing their techniques for working with favourites such as stainless steel and titanium. One company that has some quickly evolving proposals in stainless steel is l.a. Eyeworks. They have a range of perforated styles which infuse references to classical shaping with a feeling that is new and contemporary….Catnip is a catseye with a difference…it comes in coloured steel – pink, gold or black as pictured, and the light penetrates the surface so that it is somewhat softened. Delightful and totally out there for any one who loves a cat design. www.laeyeworks.comCN
11th October 2011 Hall of Frames, held in Zurich, Switzerland, was an inspirational fountain of eyewear design, and a tempting preview of what’s in store for 2012. Featured were unique, independent international brands that included Götti (shown above, MICA in soft turquoise), Wonder Glasses, Funk, Entourage of 7, Blac, Bellinger, Face à Face, Robert Marc, Paul and Joe, and Rolf Eyewear among others. Swiss Sculptor Didier Voirol, transcends his considerable talents to eyewear and launched a collection with artisan elements. Hall of Frames illustrated the immense variety that is now possible in fine eyewear design. www.hallofframes.ch www.gotti.chJG
Innovative Creators at Hall of Frames, Zurich, Switzerland
8th October 2011 Men’s eyewear is pioneering new style trends. Thinner, more linear shapes are emerging, such as this handsome Bellinger frame, (shown above). The Danish company, recognised for its quality designs for both men and women, is among the select group of eyewear creators exhibiting at Hall of Frames in Zurich, Switzerland that opens on Sunday. We are keen to see the collections that include Papiersall, a native Zurich brand; Götti, whose home base is also Zurich; Tom Davies from London; Funk from Germany and more. An exciting line up! www.hallofframes.chwww.bellinger.dkJG
07 October 2011 This weekend I’m going to be in Zurich – a favourite destination – to attend the prestigious Hall of Frames. This twice-yearly event is a little jewel of an exhibition where you can find superb eyewear. Organiser Nathanial Wenger is passionate about eyewear and independent designers. It promises to be an exciting role call of international creators – including Orgreen from Denmark, Götti of Switzerland, Blue Magic Eye from Italy, Robert Marc from New York, Face à Face in Paris and Framers, the cool Berlin brand (featured above), among others. Watch this space for the latest über chic eyewear fashion statements from Zurich. www.hallofframes.chwww.framers.deJG
6th October 2011 I have been studying some of the men’s collections for 2012 this week, and a number of people have suggested there is a new direction towards thinner more delicate plastic frames…a refreshing and elegant refinement of the much loved geek chic theme of recent years….the spectacles in this picture from Kilsgaard rather sum this mood up…the style has a simple, elegant shape that is less bulky than what has been in fashion recently…
Kilsgaard is a Danish design company using acetate and aluminium…the frames are produced in Italy and Denmark with great attention to detail. www.kilsgaard-eyewear.comCN
5th October 2011 Crystal acetate is expressed with unusual artistry at Chrome Hearts. The voluminous frame shape is bold and dramatic, and further enhanced with the sterling silver signature Chrome Hearts motif on the sides. I tried on this frame at the Paris show SILMO, and its generous proportions, superb fit and the luxurious acetate assures that Schlore is a genuine collector’s item. This frame is also available in black acetate and Schiaparelli pink, a dashing shade that pays homage to fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli,who adored this hue. www.chromehearts.comJG
4th October 2011 Among the many tempting eyewear collections we viewed at SILMO were the modern classics from Paul Frank. The California based company revealed their winning ways in eyewear with multi-coloured acetate, including model “matter of fact” (above) in fashionable aubergine and pink. Softly curvaceous, the thickness at the temples, with colour highlights and contrasting rim tone, give this frame a sleek and pure look. Paul Frank Eyewear is available at Marc Le Bihan in Paris, and in Vienna at Brillen Manufaktur. Further details at www.baumvision.com/paulfrankJG
3rd October 2011 We were delighted to meet with Henry Holland this week-end. He has recently launched a sunglass collection with Le Specs, and talked to us about his inspiration for this. “We have used round shapes and references to eye lashes and eyebrows. I love to use colour; my sunglasses for Le Specs are one-offs, but we have worked hard on the shapes as I wanted them to be unique yet wearable. Fashion should be fun, enjoyable and an expression of your personality.”
Holland’s new collaboration with Le Specs looks set to expand next year with a new line for House of Holland. Pictured above, the fashion editors’ favourite style Hoodies in the Henry Holland for Le Specs Collection. CN
1st October 2011 On my travels at the eyewear show, more and more conversations revolved around the beauty you can achieve by revisiting production techniques of the past… there is a lot of work being done by hand to achieve designs that guarantee functionality, comfort and real style…from Germany’s Lunettes Kollektion to the very beautiful collection we saw from Australia’s Graz (www.grazmulcahy.com), the love of past eyewear trends and true craftsmanship was very much in the air. CN
Music, art, acting and the fantasies that emanate from these creative forces, all find their way into the amazing frames created by Anna-Karin Karlsson. Private clients of the Swedish designer have been fortunate to wear her innovative frames for the past several years; now she has debuted her first official collection in Paris. The above frame is dedicated to her sister Rose, whom Anna-Karin says is “my one and only super star.” Fabricated in sleek acetate, the luscious rose motif is reference to the beauty and romance that she envisions for her sister – with less thorns in life and more petals! www.annakarinkarlsson.comJG
The touch and feel of smooth, sensuous calfskin, expertly tooled, possesses an elegant look for distinctive eyewear. The latest collection from Historie de Voir is particularly outstanding.This style with its dramatic shape, is totally handcrafted from fine quality calf skins, with the rim and temple in inox. One of the lovely aspects of leather is that with continued wear, it becomes even more beautiful. Available in ten gorgeous colours, including Red Pony, shown above. Historie de Voir is sold at Eyes Pleasure, 40 rue Saint Suplice, Paris 75005, and at Optic Gallery, Galerie Louise 18, 1050 Brussels. Further details at www.histoire-de-voir.com JG
Mae West was a gutsy gal who always exhibited brash vitality and enthusiasm for life. She would certainly be enthusiastic about these Silmo d’Or nominated sunglasses from Face à Face. West’s emboldened spirit motivated many, including fan Salvador Dali, and he created the well-known Mae West Lips Sofa, the inspiration for these flirty, feminine frames. The artistically crafted, sculptured shape is accented with just a hint of “red lipstick” on the sides to highlight their impertinence. Mae West would approve! www.faceaface-paris.com JG
This stunning design by Shane Baum is a classic 1970’s shape in sleek gold plated titanium across the top and temples, and tortoise acetate. Then the wearer is spoilt for choice, with a selection of either diamonds, sapphires, or tigers eye nestled into the temple. With its 70’s demeanour, Ivy League sophistication, and superb shape, these exquisite sunglasses possess an equally exquisite fit. Baum Vision’s eyewear crafting is truly couture, like handcrafted clothes from master designers. www.baumvision.comJG
Frédéric Beausoleil is passionate about acetate. For nearly a quarter of a century, he has transformed this material into glamorous eyewear with his creative ingenuity and reverence for tradition. His latest collection – The Monte Carlo – is a selection of stunning sunglasses in sensuously smooth acetate. The design above, is a distinctive creation in lemon with an intricate mix of tortoise/lemon for contrast, exclusive colours to Beausoleil. Modernity and timeless, faultless elegance are expressed in the gracious shape. All lenses are polarized for effective sun protection. www.beausoleil.frJG
1st October She wears 10-inch heels and doesn’t fall over (impressive!); Tom Ford calls her ‘probably the most stylish woman living’; and as a collector of Couture, she has the best. Daphne Guinness has worked, and inspired, some of the world’s greatest couturiers, including Karl Lagerfeld and Valentino, and she was privileged to call the late Alexander McQueen a close friend. An exhibition of her fabulous personal couture collection has opened at the Museum of The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City.
More than 100 garments from her collection (Chanel, Dior, Givenchy) are on view, along with films, videos and some of her extraordinary accessories, from Philip Treacy’s hats to Christian Louboutin shoes. Daphne Guinness, on view at The Museum at FIT, provides exciting insight into an original fashion icon. A”must see” if in New York City! Until 07 January 2012. www.fitny.edu JG