Tortoise is an all-time favourite, and it’s lovely to see that it is enjoying a fashionable renaissance. l.a. eyeworks has done a marvellous interpretation of tortoise with Big Wheel – an epic play of marble against tortoise. There is a feeling of volume in the design, yet a minimalist aura prevails as well. The high quality acetate ensures a frame of fantastic quality and beauty. www.laeyeworks.com JG
The rich, sun drenched colours of the desert are found in the new sunglass collection from Isson in Australia. The flat fronted round shape deepens the dramatic temple volume, and the frames are fitted with aspheric (flat) anti-reflection coated lenses. Designer Catherine Federici has captured the essence of the desert in Ella, with intense colouration and bold shaping. www.isson.com.au JG
1st August 2012 Xavier Derome bounds into the Blois train station, and the first thing I notice are his sunglasses — quietly distinctive, effortlessly luxurious and exuding confident quality. Blois is situated in the Loire Valley – that sumptuous region of France with its beautiful river and amazing chateaux. This area is Derome’s professional and personal territory – he was raised here, and many family members live here too – close to the historical, magical chateaux, and where Derome creates his own spell with beautifully crafted eyewear.
We drive by one of the most famous Chateau – Chambord – and as I’ve never been, Xavier graciously stops so we can have coffee in the garden, while admiring the extravagant architectural dream of King François 1. What inspires you, I ask Xavier? He looks up from his coffee and surveys the magnificence around him. “All of this,” he responds, gesturing to the beauty of the green forest, the open spaces, the superb chateau, the Loire River. “I was born in this region; it’s in my blood.”
Studying history at La Sorbonne didn’t really prepare Derome for the eyewear world. However, his father was involved in the production of frames, and this is where the seeds for his future career were sown. “What I really wanted to do was go live in Vietnam, to move away from France.” However, he believes in fate, and began to become interested in eyewear. “But I knew,” says Xavier, “that if I wanted to do this, it would be a long road to design eyewear, and I needed the skills. I learnt production at the ‘grass roots’ and the new technology. Eyewear production is still very special, and I developed a fondess for acetate, because with acetate, I could make jewellery too.”
We move onto Derome’s production facilities in the small village of Bracieux, and Flo Flo, Xavier’s adorable little miniature dachshund, greets us with enthusiastic barking. When all ten employees of Derome Brenner are at work, the factory is a beehive of activity. “I love machines and all this fascinates me,” says Derome, “and these Italian machines are able to do many processes, which are all intricate.” Derome Brenner frames are acclaimed for their exceptional craftsmanship, and the distinctive multiple layering of acetate that gives the impression of volume, without ever being heavy. The acetate is polished in special tumblers filled with wood chips, and Xavier savours holding each piece in his hands to observe the polishing process. No detail is overlooked; as a result, quantities are very small. “We keep no stock, and many frames are made to order. Everything is finished by hand – there are over 60 different steps. Only hand finishing can produce superior quality,” notes Derome, “and this requires concentration and good eyes.”
Xavier’s concentration, determination, creativity, passion and perseverance won him a SILMO d’OR in 2009, and his frames are sold worldwide. Recently, he lanched jewellery, which has met with great success. “I’ve carved a nice in the market,” says Derome, “and I have my own production plant; I can travel; I love my work; I love my job.” And eyewear fans across the globe love his beautiful frames. www.deromebrenner.com JG
1st August 2012 At the beginning of the 20th century, women’s clothing was corseted and mobility was limited with long, flowing and layered skirts. By the end of the century, a revolution had taken place, including natural free shaping. Fashion – A History of the 20th Century beautifully illustrates through text and stunning photos the enormous changes that took place, and explores the influence that designers such as Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, Mario Fortuny, Yves Saint Laurent and many more, demonstrated over the decades. The impressive assortment of distinctive designs, plus hats, bags, shoes has been collected by The Kyoto Costume Institute. This is an inspirational and informative book for fashion and social history enthusiasts. Published by TASCHEN www.taschen.com JG
Christian Dior photo (below) copyright Takashi Hatakeyama
Model Simon embodies everything I love about the frames by Turkish label RVS by V. Colour is one of their trademarks and they offer unique ideas on colour combos, as this version of Simon clearly illustrates. My current favourites are this trendsetting matt pink with tortoise and the same model in a gorgeously soft yellow with purple temples, both exemplary of the collection in that they move dramatically away from more classic tonal pairings. Typical here is the clever matt finish which is both edgy and extremely soft and comfortable on the skin. To find out more about RVS by V. visit www.rvsbyv.com CN