….and throughout the month, we’ll be reporting on beautiful eyewear being presented at the autumn shows. In Reviews, you’ll find innovative designs, while the Boutique spotlight is on a shop in Taiwan and the BOX Boutique, London. Read all about the creative inspiration of an exceptional French creator in Designer of the Month. In City Guides, fashion meets fantasy at a museum exhibition. And we are very excited about the forthcoming NewcomerAwards…..click and stay with Eyestylist for trends, fashion and memorableeyewear!
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30th October 2012There is nothing like a splash of vibrant red to uplift the spirits! This season red eyewear is plentiful, in a variety of tones, and sometimes teamed with black, for a hint of mystery. If concerned that red is too harsh for your skin tone, designers have taken this into consideration. The beautiful transparency of Lafont’s Lido (above) provides a lovely, luminous glow to the skin. www.lafont.com
Swiss designer Didier Voirol is also a sculptor, and these skills are handsomely crafted in Odile (above). The acetate front is striking in black and red, and the temples are deftly sculpted in stainless steel. www.metalartconcept.comJG
27th October 2012On a first very windy trip to the Turner Contemporary at Margate’s seafront, we visited the Alex Katz exhibition, running until January 2013. This is an exciting space to visit – especially as we were able to enjoy the views of the stormy sea from inside – and downstairs the children spent time exploring Maria Nepomuceno’s installation, “Tempo para Respirar” (Breathing Time); they said it was a really nice feeling walking on tiny coloured marbles which massaged their feet and they went back in for another go before we left. Upstairs we visited the exhibition, Alex Katz: ‘Give me Tomorrow’, which brings together paintings – large and small, oil studies and collages, as well as some unusual cutouts of people canoeing (painted on both sides); the works on display span the American artist’s whole career – he is now 85 – and their diversity provided lots of talking points for youngsters. If you admire Katz’s work you will love this and the gallery is an atmospheric place to see his work. ‘Black Hat’ (above) features the artist’s wife Ada who appears in a number of the works of art.
27th October 2012 I’ve seen plenty of frames where two or even three colours are combined, and at the moment there are some fine proposals where two colours are paired on the front, with a matching tone for temples. A really striking collection I’ve seen this month that plays with combinations of this kind is by the London designer Claire Goldsmith – great granddaughther of Oliver Goldsmith, one of the most influential eyewear designers of the past. Claire’s new spectacle designs in the CG Legacy collection, previewed in Paris in September, include some unique colour pairings such as for model Bailey (above), where the crystal and tortoise gently merge at the top of the temple. This elegant colour technique also works effectively in stronger tones – the chocolate on transparent jade is a particularly eye-catching one. We also recommend model Brooke, a style that has strong vintage lines and comes in these lovely calm tones of nougat (below) – the darker tone overlaps the paler one harmoniously almost as if one has been hand-painted over the other; this frame is also a brilliant choice in black on liquorice or black on transparent pink.
25th October 2012 Hall of Frames Stuttgart was located next to the Meilenwerk – a classic car museum with gorgeous old cars, which proved to be quite an attraction, as well as the beautiful frames on display! Several international eyewear designers at the event were on hand to present their collections, including Ciro Tugnoli from Blue Magic Eye in Italy, (above) who took time out to cast an admiring glance at a Chandler Six 1919 Touring car. A 1950’s Mercedes-Benz and a sleek 1947 black and white Cadillac laden with chrome, were additional classic car highlights. www.bluemagiceye.com
The new eyewear collection by designer Tom Stevens in The Netherlands (above) was drawing attention with graceful, delicately sophisticated frame shapes. Tom reported that the inspirational colours for Spring 2013 include cool, smooth sorbet tones, and his eyewear features some lovely examples. www.stevensevewear.com
Sid Firoozkoohi travelled from London to exhibit the new collection from Coppe+Sid, and Sid (above) explains how he and Coppe want to make their designs memorable. So each frame has a small blue lapis lazuli stone tucked inside the temple tip. “Lapis Lazuli is the friendship stone, “says Sid, “and we want to present this feeling to the people who wear our glasses.” Acetate designs are all polished to gleaming perfection. www.eyedesignclub.comwww.hallofframes.chJG
Photos Exclusively for Eyestylist.com by Gilles Stüssi
23rd October 2012 Enthusiastic anticipation filled the Stuttgart venue with the announcement of the Hall of Frames and Eyestylist.com Newcomer Awards 2012 – and here are the winners! In the above photo: HOF founders Dirk Geissmann (far left) and Nathanael Wenger (far right) with Gold award winner Rolf Spectacles, accepted by Dominic Ferlings (centre) on behalf of the Austrian designers; Silver was awarded to pq Eyewear designed by Ron Arad, accepted by Frederic Ferrant (second left); and the Bronze award to Frency & Mercury, accepted by Dominique Kasper (second right) on behalf of the company. The Gold winner receives a complimentary booth at HOF shows in 2013, and the Silver and Bronze recipients receive a substantial reduction on a booth. All winners received a copy of Moss Lipow’s stunning book – Eyewear – a Visual History – published by TASCHEN. Congratulations to all! www.rolf-spectacles.comwww.pq-eyewear.comwww.dualview.it
Eyestylist.com has been established to give a specific platform for designers with frames of excellence. This has been an exciting occasion – and we thank all the participants who entered the Hall of Frames/Eyestylist.com Newcomer Awards 2012. www.hallofframes.chJG
Photos exclusively for Eyestylist.com by Gilles Stüssi
20th October 2012This weekend launches new eyewear history as Hall of Frames is presented in Stuttgart for the first time – AND – the winners of the first Newcomer of the Year Award 2012, in collaboration with Hall of Frames and Eyestylist.com, will be announced early next week. We are enthusiastic about the responses that we have received! Among the entrants is Jeremy Tarian from Paris, (above, pictured in Paris after winning the Silmo d’Or). www.jeremytarian.com
Rolf Spectacles from the lovely Tyrol region of Austria, have submitted a design made from natural stone, sourced from their amazing landscape. Silverstone (above) is handmade, beautifully crafted, and the stone is deliciously smooth and polished. www.rolf-spectacles.com. Stay tuned with Eyestylist.com for chats with designers at the Stuttgart event, and the winners of the Hall of Frames/Eyestylist Newcomer of the Year Award for 2012! www.hallofframes.chJG
19th October 2012 André Le Guin was visiting Hall of Frames Zurich, and I had the opportunity to meet him, and see his remarkable frames! A background with classic training in fine mechanics, Andre’s expertise in this metier is evident in his outstanding titanium frames with a satin glow finish. “The devil is in the detail,” explains the charming and personable creator, (above) “And I wanted to combine fashion and the technical side.” Definitely, every detail in the frame is an art in itself. Le Guin spent two years in research and development to perfect the shape and the technical elements.
The construction of the frame is complex – medical stents are inserted into the frame, and special shape memory alloys are used, along with unique processing – there are more than 60 production steps to make just one frame. DLC – diamond-like carbon coating – is used on the frames – and ensures it is as hard and durable as a diamond. “It’s a slow process, but the result is the best quality,” says Le Guin. The frame is extremely comfortable and feels wonderful against the skin. Three colours are available – black, gold and silver – in a Limited Edition of only 100 pieces – for all three colours. Price? €4500. – A sound investment in eyewear fashion and heritage. www.leguin.deJG
Photo of André Le Guin exclusively for Eyestylist.com by Gilles Stüssi
17th October 2012 In the historic setting of Papiersall, opticians and visitors to Hall of Frames Zurich were enthusiastic about the diverse range of independent designer eyewear on display. International names were represented – Götti, Isson, Res/Rei, Lindberg, Orgreen, Theo, Blue Magic Eye, Framers and LGR, among others – providing a fashion feast for chic, individual eyewear. Sven Götti of Götti Switzerland (Designer and CEO, above right, with Sales Manager Felix Moreno, trying on TILO) said:”As we are a Swiss brand, this is a wonderful atmosphere – it’s like a family reunion.” Götti’s new collection is a brilliant mix of creativity and technology, in beautifully refined colours. www.gotti.ch
Res/Rei’s Oliviero Zanon, (above) designer and co-founder, was presenting his eyewear collection in Switzerland for the first time – avant-garde designs, lovingly constructed and handmade in Italy. Oliviero loves to search in old factories for vintage acetate, and the limited editions in unique designs are genuine collectors items. Hall of Frames Zurich was a delightful celebration of innovative designers who are creating dazzling eyewear style and making history! www.resrei.comwww.hallofframes.chJG
Photos: Exclusively for Eyestylist.com by Gilles Stüssi
15th October 2012 A lot is being written about this new collaboration between the German label Mykita and Damir Doma, the Croatian-born designer, since it appeared on the runway at Paris Fashion Week (pictured together above, Moritz Krueger, Mykita and fashion designer, Damir Doma). Contrasting materials usually work with great effect in spectacle design and are being re-explored in progressive ways. This luxurious edition proves that two materials that are poles apart in their make-up – buffalo horn that is warm and natural in colour tone and touch and stainless steel, cool and man-made but aesthetically exciting and futuristic – can be brought together to create something that stands out on its own.
I held these pieces in my hand in Paris and tried one on; designed to be fitted with sun or optical lenses, the glasses have a light construction and the material combination is reminiscent of the characteristic mix of coarse, stiff fabric and soft flowing textures in the Damir Doma fashion collections. Seeing a designer’s concept like that translated with such care and precision in a frame design deserves appraisal, and I look forward to seeing more collaborations between fashion and eyewear designers at this level.
Doma himself explains: “This particular shape perfectly rounds up the Damir Doma look. From the very beginning, our aim was to translate the traditional shape into something modern and create an iconic object.” At the same time, the style is a historic reference to the round glasses worn by the intellectual avant-garde – a design which transcends time. The collection is available at the Damir Doma store in Paris. www.mykita.comwww.damirdoma.comCN
Damir Doma, Store, 54 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore, 75008 Paris.
This report was written by Clodagh Norton exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Please see our disclaimer above.
13th October 2012 Blessed with a gorgeous lake and stunning mountain views, Zurich is always a delightful destination. Adding to the pleasure of this visit is Hall of Frames Zurich, held this weekend (14th and 15th October) in the historical Papiersaal building. Th event highlights international, independent creators, including Bellinger from Denmark. Claus and Marlene (above) founders and designers at Bellinger, produce a diverse range of frames – very lightweight, in splashy colours and classics, in a variety of materials.
The company now make their own acetate, and the frames can include from 2-5 different types of acetates, creatively mixed to achieve a polished, high quality product. For the newest Bounce series (above) – the inspiration is airplanes and boats – modes of transportation associated with romance and glamour, and translated into beautiful frames. For more fashion led, designer frames, the place to be this weekend is Hall of Frames Zurich! www.hallofframes.chwww.bellinger.dkJG
12th October 2012 It may have been set up as a fine footwear destination, but the Box Boutique has now become one of the most striking destination stores in London for accessories, including some of the most sought after creative sunglasses. Eyestylist.com visited the store to meet co-owners and sisters, Elena and Yulia Pashevkina.
“We are one of a kind,” explains Elena, “our shoe brands include exciting names like Ruthie Davis, Chrissie Morris and Crisian & McCaffrey. “We pick our labels without really following trends, and so we have been able to introduce something new in London, sophisticated, and diverse.”
Alongside the shoes, three complimentary sunglass brands are showcased: Anna-Karin Karlsson, a-morir, and Mykita. “We started with Kerin Rose’s embellished sunglasses, and we introduced Anna-Karin’s designs last year. The two designers are different and individual, but both fit so perfectly with our concept. Mykita is desirable; our customers relate to the gold sunglasses they created with Bernhard Willhelm Franz, worn by Sarah Jessica Parker, and the collection also offers something intriguing for our male customer.”
The setting of the Box Boutique is also glamourous and sophisticated, with neon and neo-baroque placed side by side. The sunglass brands are a perfect pick in this context, an exciting find for Eyestylist.com.
11th October 2012 The round shape is not new – a dapper Benjamin Franklin in Paris was charming the ladies in his round spectacles in the 18th century. The earliest round designs were encased in heavy brass frames – and viva la difference three centuries later! We found some must-have round creations at SILMO, orchestrated in lustrous materials. Above, a beautiful round interpretation with translucent, expressive dimensions from the Danish award-winning company Lindberg. www.lindberg.com
Lunettes Kollektion in Berlin has revisited the 1920’s for the elegant Constructivismo, (above) inspired by the Constructivist movement of the period. The top edge of the acetate frame features a moulded motif reminiscent of the Russian avant-garde. We tried this frame on – looks great and a pleasure to wear! www.lunettes-kollektion.comJG
This copy was written by Joan Grady exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Please see our disclaimer above.
8th October 2012 There has been some tremendous catwalk action in the last weeks with lots of hints of the new sunglass styling for next year. This special design for Nicole Farhi’s S/S 2013 show is one that stood out in London. This is a wood-effect acetate model that illustrates the growing enthusiasm for frames with a natural grainy almost rough finish. The oversized flat fronted style complemented light, elegant sheer fabrics and neutral tones of white, taupe and grey, inspired by the marble quarries of Carrara in Italy. The show was the last for the 65 year old designer Nicole Farhi whose label will be headed in the seasons to come by new creative director, Joanna Sykes. www.nicolefarhi.comCN
6th October 2012 We’ve seen some beautiful eyewear collections at SILMO, but one we greatly admire is René, the inventive creation of Tim Van Steenbergen with Theo. These very special frames are a tribute to Steenbergen’s grandfather, René, a Belgian architect, who taught Tim to draw, appreciate art, and was his mentor. Many of the art deco inspired buildings designed by René Van Steenbergen are connected to religious architecture, and Tim found the contrast of heavy concrete, glass and light to be a great attraction.(Above René No 6. and No. 8)
The acetate and stainless steel frames exude craftsmanship and luxury. Each design has geometric details in a primary colour – a reference to stained glass windows. The multi-dimensional aspect of the frames adds to their beauty and mystery. Only 150 sets of Limited Edition René will be produced, so this is the moment to grab a slice of eyewear history! www.theo.beJG & CN
4th October 2012 We are heading for SILMO today, eager to see the new eyewear designs. The previews that we’ve seen have really tweaked our interest – so we look forward to seeing the complete collections. We are impessed with the artisan influences at Jono Hennessy – their inspiration ranges from the early 20th century Arts & Crafts movement through to Art Nouveau. The cat eye shape looks so fresh, particularly when interpreted as in the graceful design above – (style 8250). www.jonohennessy.com
The dashing cosmopolitan collection from Coppe+Sid includes this chic little cat’s eye (above) in vibrant red acetate. As an affirmation of the sophisticated nature of the frames, each design is named after an international city. www.coppeandsid.co.uk Click and stay with Eyestylist as we bring you news of our favourite eyewear discoveries! JG & CN
1st October 2012 Fashion takes its cue from many sources, and frequently it is the cinema. Over one hundred of the most iconic costumes designed for unforgettable cinema characters go on display this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The collection is a dazzling statement of cinema fashion from classics such as The Wizard of Oz (1939), Gone With the Wind (1939), the memorable ‘little black dress’ designed by Hubert de Givenchy for Holly Golightly (Audrey Hepburn) in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), plus Titanic (1997), and Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007), amongst others.
The exhibition is meticulously researched, with the clothes placed in their original context, alongside interviews with Hollywood costume designers, directors, and actors, talking about the role costume plays in creating a character. Sourcing, identifying and securing objects required tracking leads worldwide during the past five years. Sir Christopher Frayling, guest curator, said: “The design of costumes for films is a distinctive form of design, which is often taken for granted or misunderstood. This V&A exhibition presents the ideal opportunity to set the record straight – and will do so in the most spectacular way.”
Hollywood Costume Victoria & Albert Museum London 20 October 2012 through 27 January 2013. More details at www.vam.ac.ukJG
Photos: Titanic 20 Century Fox/Paramount/The Kobal Collection
Elizabeth: The Golden Age Universal/Working Title/The Kobal Collection/Greg Williams
Geometric colour blocks and strong contrasts- a tribute to Piet Mondrian – signify the dramatic eyewear collection from Face à Face that they are launching this autumn. The bold shape with its sharp angles creates a real continuity between the acetate pieces. Purity, elegance and simplicity combine in this design by Pascal Jaulent, to create a beautiful new classic. www.faceaface-paris.comJG
“Music Express” is the theme for the latest collection from the German company Wonderglasses. The cat eye shape is curvy and charming, with striking colour combinations. The gracefulness of the design extends to the distinctive nose piece, and the overall effect is a harmonious blend of sweet and strong. This new Wonderglass collection is also available in a delightful selection of cat eye optical styles. www.wonderglasses.com JG
Futuristic styling meets retro in this bold design from Lotho. Thinical Beta-Titanium is superbly crafted into this arty frame in deep forest green – a lovely accompaniment to autumn fashions. The flat top bridge and intriguing nose detailing ensure this is a true original for the discriminating sunglass lover. www.lotho.frwww.ibrandseurope.comJG
If autumn or winter holidays to warm locations are on your agenda, Pierre Eyewear has festive frames to enjoy wearing for sunny expeditions. Shiny white polka dots on blue acetate, and the retro shape, definitely add zip and flair for under-the-sun activities. Ludo is just one of a stunning new range that Pierre Eyewear will unveil at Silmo. www.pierre-eyewear.comJG
Unique technology – a stainless steel front with a precious metal coating, and the temples in a special epoxy plastic – combine harmoniously in Fiona by Götti Switzerland. The shape is a subtle statement – with an enduring timelessness that Sven Götti creates so perfectly. Fiona features Götti’s patented 360° Spin&Stow system, so the frames fold easily and compactly. Great colours too — shiny silver, lilac matte, shiny gold and black. We are reliably informed that Fiona is a favourite of several New York fashion editors – we understand why! www.gotti.ch JG
Blade is the exclusive new cellulose acetate block devised and produced for the Italian Vanni collection. The material structure is sliced into minute parts and all the two-tone pearly fragments compact together against a transparent or solid underlayer.
A new combination of deep blue and warm grey is on offer, as well as some lovely variants on the lime-green and burnt umber, dusky ruby, and anthracite. Blade frames come in larger shapes that are perfect for progressive lenses. The forms are slightly feminine, with an inner block texture against either a transparent underlayer or a top layer in ‘hip’ tones such as deep blue-turquoise, petroleum-grey, havana, classic black, or bright red. To see more on Vanni, visit www.vanniocchiali.com. CN
The Dawson is a super retro P-3 shape that is smart and instantly fashionable for men this Autumn/Winter season. Part of the Original Penguin eyewear range, the frame features a smooth plastic front augmented with thin wire temples and suspended metal nosepads. The choice of colours includes the classic dark tortoise pictured and a striking grey tortoise effect. Coloured tortoise, by the way, is on the rise. The keyhole bridge adds extra vintage elegance. See more of the frames from this elegant fashion range for men at www.kenmarkoptical.com or visit www.originalpenguin.comCN
A super little cat’s eye shape is always a lovely idea for the winter and this style sums up how adorable this design can be. I like the pretty moulded line of the upper front, and the choice of a classic red, which can be a top one (sometimes unexpectedly) for many skin colours. It is a smallish frame, but full of character. Try it and see! www.emmanuellekhanhparis.comCN
Graduated colours or gradients such as this acetate example by the label Tom Stevens are a must-have in the coming months. This colour scheme is very soft and gentle on the face, while the shape offers the right level of statement for girls who like their frames bang on trend. For more on this boutique brand by Dutch designer Tom Stevens, visit their website: www.stevenseyewear.comCN
A couple of British opticians have written and recommended this new eyewear line. Most of the designs are in acetate, and are bold and quite chunky in line with the vintage revival; this metal one has an interesting shape and quite a finely worked thin frame featuring an antique finish which is very trendy. Sir Edwin Hardy Amies, the founder of the label, was often described as the king of British style and was best-known for his official title as dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II; the label lives on, with a new creative director, Claire Malcolm and collections for both men and women. This is a first optical range by the luxury fashion house, focusing on clean cut silhouettes and strong lines. To see the full range, visit www.hardyamieseyewear.com. Frames from £145.00. CN
1st October 2012 Anne Valentin, the co-founder of Anne et Valentin in Toulouse, on frames, creativity and the beauty of colourful eyewear.
Explain how you first started. It just happened one day, from a desire to break with boredom…. A first collection made as beginners, then another, then another,until beautiful objects appeared: great eyeglasses! For over fifteen years, we have been designing them, constantly renewing our shapes and colours. Convinced that uniform grey is nobody’s dream, and that this profession is a pleasure only if it is accompanied by some spirit with lots of heart. Today, our brand, Anne et Valentin is available throughout Europe, in the United States, Canada, Korea, Japan…in the most innovative boutiques of the world.
Do you design as a team?Caroline Dufour, Anne Valentin’s assistant, leads the design team. They have known each other for a very long time. Sitting at the same table, they think and imagine a concept to work with. Everyone is there to enrich an idea. It is this dialogue that creates our requirements. Working together on all projects. A mix of collective and individual work. We work with lots of ideas until the moment when the frame perfectly translates the intention of the initial project.
And your philosophy for eyewear design? To design frames suited to the personality of the wearer. We want to create a collection that is rich enough for everyone to feel free to express his or her personality. This idea always guides us.
Your label is seen by many inside the eyewear business as one of the creative innovators. Please comment. I believe this is because we are in harmony with our times, while providing a more timeless spirit. Colour is one of your signature traits. How have you managed to take your own unique path with colour? What are your favourite colours for spectacles?
Colours allow the expression of a whole subtle, delicious language in which we can find that we do not know what to choose, and rather like everything. We give special attention to this language because it is made of light.
Your inspiration for your designs often comes from areas beyond fashion and fashion trends. Our inspiration comes from all the different elements of our culture, and from our constant searches and our wanderings. What puts us in motion is the need to discover.
You have your own store in Paris – please tell us about it. We wanted it to be nestled in a vibrant, eclectic neighbourhood where everyone likes to go and have a drink. It opened in 2001. We wanted it to be timeless; for that reason we chose materials with a soul. The floor is made from solid oak and so is the staircase, which welcomes you on the first floor with open arms. Almost all the furniture was designed and made by us in our workshops. It is a fresh and friendly place to buy our spectacles and sunglasses.
How do you connect with today’s customers and understand their needs? We are connected to life in general. We travel and and listen enough to observe and feel the trends.
Is it easy for a French boutique label to develop a design ethos that appeals to an international audience? Please comment. We are deeply attached to our culture, and our identity is strongly anchored in our philosophy; it is shown in our work and reveals a very determined aesthetic. We believe everybody dreams of things from far away places…
Explain how your new collections launching in Paris this week are focused, commenting on key colours, shapes and design elements. Our sunglasses are beautiful objects, defined by an impressive acetate structure, with a clean finish. We have featured an unexpected chromatic line; for example, we are using a very translucent lime green, outlined in black; an ochre with a pearly grey and, of course, the famous tortoiseshell associated with navy blue. The new titanium frames feature duplicate layers of colour which overlap and create a colour vibration. The sobriety of the colours underlines the elegance of these models.
Anne et Valentin, 4 Rue Ste Croix la Bretonnerie, Quartier Saint Gervais, 75004 Paris