and reason – for celebration…and we are always ready to toast independent specs designers at Eyestylist! Click on REVIEWS for exceptional shapes and colours in glasses and sunglasses. For creativity from Australia to Iceland, visit Designer of the Month and Boutiques. Valentino is highighted in City Guides, with a stunningexhibition in London. And we highlight frames featuring diamonds and art deco details. To all our readers – Joyous and Healthy Holidays!
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29th December 2012 When the temperatures dip to zero, resort fashions look so tempting…..so do sunglasses that look as if they were especially created for the beach and poolside. I’ve come across two lovely styles that are fun, colourful, and perfect for warmer climes and sunny days. Sheriff and Cherry’s nautically inspired Mediterranean blue acetate frames (above style 8766) with blue lenses are spiked with white trim on the temple ends, and an anchor and star motif, handmade in their Croatian workshop. www.sheriffandcherry.com
Both sea and sky tones are featured in Summazeit (above) by Andy Wolf. Luminous acetate in tones of turquoise, violet, yellow and soft pink highlight the round shape. Handcrafted in Austria, the turquoise lenses are stunning! www.andy-wolf.comJG
26th December 2012 I have been looking at the beautiful grainy effects and natural finishes and textures in eyewear. Not only are we seeing more and more frames made from horn and wood where the natural colouring, texture and natural grains in the material are clearly visible, but there are also more and more wood-look and marbled acetate styles on offer, that have grainy surfaces or striated colouring….all of which are very elegant and show remarkable attention to the end result.
Examples pictured here include the natural horn frame (below) by the Hong Kong based label Rigards – the textured surface is very beautiful, and reminds me of early 15th or 16th handmade spectacles but the Rigard shapes are interesting and often wacky for a 21st century interpretation. www.rigards.com
The Carter Bond frames (examples top and below), designed by Jono Hennessy, have the warmth and feel of wood to the point where I was sure it was wood; I have a selection of these sitting on my desk and everyone keeps commenting on how cool the matt wood frames are. But I have been put right: “These frames are acetate. It is a technique Jono has developed to give that natural wood look; the frames are fully adjustable, so they adjust and glaze exactly the same as another acetate frame.” Impressive! Designed by Jono Hennessy in Australia. www.carterbond.com
I am also very taken with the subtle textures inside smooth acetate. The white example from Bologna’s Blue Magic Eye (top image, centre frame, model BME V3107) shows a gentle pattern that is similar to that of the smooth inside of an oyster shell, coloured in a pure striated snow white and combined with a silver metal detail on the arms. It is a very chic design, robust, with a clever pairing of the materials. www.bluemagiceye.comCN
21st December 2012 On our must-see list at the show coming up in Munich are a number of collections for men including cool classic design for the well-heeled gent and strong statement pieces for the fashion aficionado. From Brit label Kirk Originals, models from the Beam collection gives a suitably punchy colour kick for 2013, with new tone proposals launching including a bright almost fluo orange, a trendy choice for the season. Kirk Originals will also show their Stripe and Pins lines in the Twenty Collection, a celebration of their recent 20th Anniversary offering colour in a retro style and an interpretation that is clearly a nod to the brand’s heritage and international successes over the years. www.kirkoriginals.co.uk
Leisure Society (Baum Vision Europe) will include the presentation of the very dapper classic round model Byron at opti, a new style by Shane Baum, inspired by the poet and featuring a classic key hole bridge and rich colourings. “With each new style comes heritage, perfect for the spring flaneur and chic conventionalism”, says Baum. “As a designer I am always aware of the smallest details in my surroundings; it is in the tiny features of even the most grandiose items that I find inspiration.” www.leisure-society.com
Also exhibiting in Munich is the young Californian designer Garrett Leight, son of Oliver Peoples’ founder Larry Leight and one of a small gang of new generation eyewear designers with a genuine passion for quality and creativity – and returning that to eyewear for the future.
The GLCO designs are contemporary classics, use traditional craftsmanship and hand finishing techniques, and feature old-school materials and natural, muted colorations – typically tortoise – that highlight the elegance of spectacles of the past. I saw them in Paris this year for the first time, and was surprised by the classical, understated direction and earthy natural colours I was shown. No attention-grabbing bright colours were featured here and yet the collection has its own personality that the fashion crowd connects with. One to see. www.garrettleight.com
For a full list of the designers and companies that will be visiting Munich on 25th to 27th January, go to www.opti-munich.comCN
19th December 2012 Blood & Tears is a new collection from the Monocle Order, a Members’ Club for sunglass enthusiasts and one of the most exciting online retailers based in New York, stocking a selection of super eyewear labels, including Thierry Lasry, RVS by V., Illesteva, L.G.R. and Waiting for the Sun. In Paris this year, Zoe Nightingale Wiseman told me how how her love of sunglass fashion has brought about the creation of the Monocle Order’s own label, produced in a collaboration with Turkish label RVS by V.
Why “Blood and Tears”? Blood and Tears is the inspiration behind the things that really matter in life. From art to music to love, these are the liquids that saturate the most important moments in our lives. So for us, there was no better name for something into which we put so much of our heart and soul.
What is the idea behind the designs and how/where they were made? We approached Vidal Erkohen from RVS by V. because we are always so impressed with his eye for colour and detail. Together, we decided to update the classic wayfarer, because of its timeless sex appeal and universally wearable shape.We pored over books and consulted with our clients, trying to figure out what it was they loved about eyewear and what they felt was lacking. It took a while to find the right combination, but after the painful process of making prototypes and corrections we finally decided on one that was longer, thinner and sexier than its predecessor.
Our first collection features four colours. All of our frames were made in the RVS factory in Istanbul, using Mazzucchelli acetate produced in Italy. Each colour is matched with one of four different lenses, all gradiated, and all custom hand dyed in Turkey. We wanted to offer something classic, but with vibrant colour and lenses that gave each model its own unique style. Each frame in the 200 piece collection has been hand stamped with a number that corresponds to its number in the production line.
Is there more to come in this collaboration? We are currently working on six new styles. We are very excited to show everyone the signature lines we are in the process of making for a world-famous DJ. Stay tuned, for the best is yet to come!
The new Blood & Tears collection is available exclusively from the Monocle Order online at www.monocleorder.com To view their new shoot featuring models from the line and a very famous puppy called Boo, visit the Monocle Order on Facebook.
Eyestylist is delighted to announce that we will be gifting one of the new limited “Blood & Tears” sunglass styles, packaged in a presentation box, and accompanied by an exclusive membership of Monocle Order in New York. For more information follow our Facebook page. CN
17th December 2012 Diamonds! Girl’s best friend, treasured gemstone, diamonds are forever! They are luxurious, beautiful, glamorous and desirable. Eyewear and diamonds, plus beautiful natural metals are a winning combination – and two gorgeous creations we present here. From Lindberg’s Precious Collection is this elegant design that unites 18K yellow gold with forty shimmering diamonds (above Spirit 2174). Handmade in Denmark, there is a unique story behind the Precious Collection. The gold is found in one of the world’s smallest mines in Greenland, and Lindberg has exclusive world rights to use this gold. The highest quality, brilliant-cut diamonds are individually set, and the result is a magnificent heirloom design.www.lindberg.com
Shane Baum at Leisure Society has created these superb sunglasses (above Petite Vallée in Silverlake) – pure Titanium, coated with 12K gold, and stunning turquoise acetate. Three little diamonds are discreetly positioned – one on each side, and another directly in the middle of the graceful, classically shaped, individually numbered frame. Enamel and laser techniques, and superior diamond coated lenses, ensure a frame of enduring beauty and a joy to wear. www.leisure-society.comJG
14th December 2012 Lovely, sparkly frames are the perfect accessories for holiday fashions. Marc Jacobs endorses the sparkling effect with a Limited Edition dazzling sunglass design (above style 454) that has over two hundred and fifty Swarovski crystals embedded in the frame. A bright and brilliant creation with vintage inspiration and individual style. www.marcjacobs.com
Black acetate and rhinestones are a glamorous combo by Emmanuelle Khanh and capture the holiday mood (above style EK1962). The frame shape is wonderfully vintage, and the multitude of tiny rhinestones on the upper part of the frame provide a delightful glow. The holidays are the perfect opportunity to indulge in glamorous frames with a shining spirit! www.emmanuellekhanhparis.comJG
12th December 2012 Orgreen’s Marketing Manager Emma Kristensen and designer Tobias Wandrup (above) jetted into Paris from Denmark last week for their 15th anniversary celebrations at Eyespleasure – the chic boutique on Saint Suplice. They met and chatted with customers, and delighted in the pre-Noël Parisian spirit. Wandrup is one of the founders of Orgreen, and he reflected on the many and varied channels where inspiration can be found. “You never really know where inspiration may appear”, said Wandrup, “and it’s not always in cities. Travel is always a source of inspiration – different faces in the world are great inspiration too. What we like to do at Orgreen is bring ideas from the past – old techniques with modern style; bring vintage into new times. We love to play with colour too. As Danes, we are brought up with the concept of traditional design.”
Clear, uncluttered, pure lines in beautiful colourations and finishes, such as the style above – model Billie 391 – express the modern, elegant style that is Orgreen’s hallmark. Their love of colour is vibrantly alive in matt duo-toned electric blue and champagne Titanium. A contemporary and stylish eyewear expression. www.orgreen.dkJG
10th December 2012 Eyestylist is looking forward to meeting old friends and new at the next international trade show for optics and design, ‘opti’, which takes place in Munich, a city we are just starting to get to know better. For this year, we have our eye on lots of special designers and emerging labels, including German ones and a handful of favourite Brit ones.
Representatives from the UK will include Linda Farrow who are exhibiting for the first time. They have recently teamed up with Erdem Moralioglu (collection previewed above, at London Fashion Week, Photo by Margarida Viegas for Eyestylist), who won the New Establishment Award at the British Fashion Awards and is one of the most acclaimed names in contemporary fashion. Inspired by insects and their antennae, this sunglass collection is full of punchy colour and features distinctive feminine shapes and gorgeous mirrored lenses.
We shall also be hunting down the Brit label Cutler & Gross to see their surrealism theme for S/S13 and some exciting new pieces such as this little work of art above – the 1082 Black on Cream Trompe L’Oeil frame, milled individually to craft a 3d cubist design. Cutler & Gross will also show their new collaborative collection with Italian fashion designer, Alberta Ferretti; this range debuted at the Alberta Ferretti catwalk show (Autumn/Winter 2012) in Milan and includes this evocative ruby red design (model AF0001) with super curvy sides. www.cutlerandgross.com/shop/Collaborations/AF0001-Ruby-Red/ Further details on this line on Eyestylist: www.eyestylist.com/2012/04/trend-alert-vintage-curves-and-swirls/
For more on ‘opti’, which takes place on 25-27th January 2013 at the Messe Munchen, keep your eye on this space; we will have more previews in the run up to the exhibition, and a show report; for a full list of designers and companies attending, visit: www.opti-munich.comCN
7th December 2012 Combining black and gold in eyewear provides great versatility. Depending on how it is used, the colour mix can be glamorous or traditional. Los Angeles (above) takes the glam route in this chic sunglass design by Lafont. The acetate cat eye shape is flecked with gold on the front and temples. Definitely eye catching! www.lafont.com
For a sleek look in black and gold, Luca Gnecchi Ruscone at L.G.R. has created charismatic Casablanca (above) in celluloid acetate with nickel-free stainless steel temples in gold. With its bold shape, this is a frame design with a strong, independent statement. www.lgr-sunglasses.comJG
6th December 2012 As a fan of Mary Katrantzou’s fashion creations, I love this idea. The designer has come up with a Christmas Tree for the Design Museum in London, incorporating patterns from her Autumn/Winter 2012 Collection. Featured on the outer wall of the museum, the 2d design highlights the elegant embroideries created by Katrantzou in a collaboration with Swarovski and Lesage.
Mary Katrantzou: “The print was inspired by formal gardens and artful box parterres; these were layered and overlaid to create an intricate maze-like print reminiscent of a hand-embroidered lace motif.”
To see the tree, visit the Design Museum, Shad Thames, London SE1 2YD. On display now until 9th January 2013. www.designmuseum.orgCN
4th December 2012 There is no doubt this is the age of digital and high tech; however, I’m still besotted with beautiful, luxurious stationery, and elegant pens. So it was delight at first look when I saw this lovely pen – STYL-O – created by Theo. The discovery of this chic writing instrument occurred when I visited the wonderful Theo boutique in Antwerp. This stunning red pen is perfect for holiday gift giving – and a present that keeps on giving! Packaged in a handsome gift box, there are other colours, including cobalt blue and emerald green.
Co-ordinate your eyewear with a Theo design in vibrant red like Jors (above) that is certain to add cheer to winter wardrobes, with its gracefully sculpted cat eye shape in gleaming red acetate. www.theo.be Boutique:www.somersoptiek.beJG
If sunny, warm climes are your destination, these fun, stylish frames from Andy Wolf are just the item to tuck in with your beach gear. At Hall of Frames Zurich, I had the opportunity to speak with Andy Wolf co-founder, Wolfgang Scheucher, about the design concepts that are the hallmark of the collection – colour and imagination – such as Sweet Summer Dreams (above). The exotic shape is striking in acetate and metal, and the luscious tones of aqua and sea green are superb with a suntan! www.andy-wolf.comJG
Japanese acetate and pure titanium create an effective duo in this handsome Italian Olive and gold sunglass design. There is a hint of retro in the shape, combined with a contemporary edge in the temple details, and the ‘grill’ effect on titanium, highlighting the top of the frame and nose bridge. The Seiko lenses are anti-reflex – providing fashion and protection credibility. 2347 Miles Crush is just one of a sleek new collection from Frency & Mercury. www.dualview.it JG
Crystal is making a welcome return to frame designs – with its 1960’s flair that transcends the decades. Tara by Pierre Cariven at Pierre Eyewear, features a nose bridge decoratively accented in black, and the cat eye shape is a forever favourite. Handmade in France in the Jura, Tara is also available in a stunning colour range – including red, tortoise, black, cream and a lively orange sorbet – each with a contrasting nose bridge colour accent. www.pierre-eyewear.comJG
At Silmo, Clodagh and I were impressed with the sunglass collection by fashion and eyewear designer Vera Wang. Shown above is Miela – in three stunning variations. Italian acetates team with stainless steel – in a black and gold version; plus orange and cream; and my favourite, crystal with cappuccino. The distinctive nose bridge accent is a stainless steel metal clip. Handmade in Italy, the frames are chic and elegant – like Vera’s sought after clothing designs! www.kenmarkooptical.comJG
It was really a pleasure to rediscover Lesca Eyewear and catch up with Joel Lesca and his son Mathieu at the shows this autumn. The collection is authentic vintage, crafted in France, using century old traditions of handwork to achieve luxurious frames. Largo (above) in the colour Tokyo, is a compilation of all that Lesca does so well – gorgeous, superior quality acetate, in a wonderful retro shape – and a Limited Edition. For more details on Lesca’s French heritage creations, visit www.lescalunetier.comJG
Mykita’s Mylon material has gained much praise for its lightness, adjustability and design potential. No surprise then that they have launched Mykita Mylon spectacles, which have thinner rims than you would expect (if you’ve seen the sunglasses) and to the touch, feel soft and smooth. The colour that stands out in my view is Ocean Blue (centre, above, named Pantara), but this material also has a strong fashion feel in Pitch Black and the more unusual Racing Green www.mykita.comCN
Unconventional shapes are in and this one shows that if you combine that with crazy colours and patterns, you can achieve something very unique indeed. Mikli’s Portofino is a Limited Edition series that goes for bold statement style and colour in acetate. Described as “sweet and fruity” by the company, each design combines pearly opaline, a combination of mother of pearl and colour that catches the light, and turquoise, anis, pink, or purple! A colour cocktail! www.alainmikli.comCN
Nile is one of the optical styles in L.G.R.’s new spectacles collection, which we have seen in full last month. This collection ranks very highly…the acetates are classical and yet have a subtle modern feel about them – this grey marbled version is extremely appealing. I also picked out this model because of its angled eye shape which underlines the handcrafting (and love of craftsmanship) that has gone into this product. A fine product that offers something quite different from the ordinary and mass produced. CN
Leather is unusual in eyewear or more often used as a trim with other materials. I tried this design on a few weeks ago, and it felt soft and pliable and looks incredibly unique as it is made from one piece and has no hinges. Handmade in Paris, the style pictured here in a gorgeous rich purple is one of the colours that stood our for me in the new collection from Undostrial and designer Lucas de Stael, who already produces some very special designs featuring wood. 4 shapes and 5 colours are featured in 2nd Skin. The frames have an invisible metal core giving them their strength and easy adjustability and making it easy to clip in the lenses. Innovative! http://undostrial.com/ CN
A stark black design I saw in Paris, Peleo by EPOS is a classic, timeless frame but totally trendy right now: it offers the kind of price tag that many would hope for for a nice quality, robust frame with a simple yet strong design. The style carries tinted lenses very well too, giving it a strong wayfarer look. On the website you can test the optical frame with different lens colour choices which is a cute tool if you haven’t made up your mind which tone you like best. For more information, visit www.eposmilano.com//product/show/77/173CN
1st December 2012 The lively, joyous colours in frame collections by Jono Hennessy gives a clue to his location – Sydney Australia. Here in “down under” -with kangaroos and koala bears, amazing surfing and natural splendours, and the dazzling Opera House, is where Hennessy and his lovely, vivacious wife Louise, create eyewear that is sold globally. The land and its history are all inspiration for eyewear designer Jono Hennessy – where outdoor pursuits and cultual dimensions merge comfortably. The latest version of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s memorable “The Great Gatsby” (opening in spring 2013) was filmed in Australia. “My designs, inspirations, and philosophy include growing up in the surf culture of Australia, where Billabong, Mambo and Quiksilver were born,” says Hennessy “and we grew up with the same rebellious approach to what we liked, and what was exciting around us. There were no rules – no magazines or people telling us what was cool – or not. You just created things that you liked and reacted to. I studied graphic design and marketing at the School of Visual Art in Sydney – when I started my business, I did exactly the opposite to everything I had been taught at school.
“For me an influence is what creates excitement, or love, or respect, or intellectual appreciation. An influence has to give you a feeling of butterflies in your stomach and a ‘wow, isn’t that clever,” or “doesn’t that look incredible’!” For eyewear, the influences come from the influences of fashion.So when architecture moves to wood and natural products, we know this will appear in fashion, as it has over the past two to three years. Or it can be an influence of the 1920’s. I saw a Bally 1920’s flying jacket in the window of a store the other day, and was excited by how clever it was, and it engendered the feeling of a First World War fighter pilot heading off on a terrible mission. I got butterflies looking at it. Maybe that is all a bit strange, but as a designer, the joy is in what you make from these influences, how well you make it, and how it feels.
“I love acetate. I love its softness, and its strength to hold the lenses and metal hinges. I love the feel of acetate and the smell when it comes out of the polishing barrels. I love that we use the best polish in the world in the barrels. My joy is to fill the samples with metal files – these are long metal files with turned wooden handles. They are mainly used in wood working, but I use them to hand shape the acetate. I found these metal files in a country market in Tasmania. They were made by an expert craftsman who was so proud of his work. So my influences are fashion – when it results from other influences such as periods in time, like architecture and industrial design, and of course, my passion for Pop Art”. www.jonohennessy.comJG
1st December 2012 Seventeen years ago, Gylfi Björnsson and his wife, Anna Björnsdottir, opened their eyewear boutique Sjaôu in Reykjavik, Iceland. A new chapter in their eyewear story began earlier this year, with the launch of a charming boutique in a new location. “Our customers cover a very broad spectrum of the population of Reykjavik and surrounding areas,” says Gylfi, “and they are mainly people from 15-55 years of age, urban, creative individuals. Ranging from university professors to members of the Icelandic Symphonic Orchestra, or simply the city-centre-café-latte-drinkers and lifestyle enthusiasts, we take great pride in the loyalty of our customers, who usually come back again and again for our personal service and quality eyewear.”
The designer names featured in the shop include Framers, Paul Frank, Theo, Caroline Abram, Moscot and Mykita, among others. Large windows allow passersby an unobstructed view from the street into the shop. The concept is minimalist, with warmth, comfort and a very pleasant ambience. “We have noticed that customers seem to be looking for more conservative/earth tones, or ‘safer’ colours like black, blue, or dark brown, and tortoise has been popular as well. Which is interesting and could be connected to the post-crisis mentality that is a major topic here in Iceland, and is opposite to the pre-2008 economic collapse style that was all about bright colours and crazy shapes. Round shapes and Panto-style glasses remind us of early 20th century design, as well as the continuing 50’s and 60’s plastic frame trend.”
“We have ‘special happenings’ at Sjaöu. In August, we take part in the annual “Culture Night” and offer in-store concerts and a Trunk Show from a brand or designer – Theo, Framers or Mykita for example. In December we offer live music on Saturdays, and a special Christmas welcoming evening with a painting exhibition. We want to create a homey and comfortable environment for our customers; we put our ambition into offering high quality products, and we like to make it easy for customers to express their wishes. We believe that the messages we receive from customers ensures a direct way to the best professional solution. Our two principles are: We sell exciting products, and that our customers enjoying come to see us. We welcome everybody into the shop for consulting, or even just for a talk!” Sjaöu Boutique Hverfisgata 52, Reykjavik, Iceland. JG
1st December 2012The splendid neo-classical building Somerset House is the spectacular setting for the glamorous exhibition Valentino: Master of Couture. During Valentino’s fifty years as a celebrated couturier, he has crafted breathtakingly beautiful designs, worn by icons ranging from Grace Kelly to Jackie Kennedy Onassis, and Sophia Loren to Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece. Valentino is often associated with his signature colour “Valentino Red”, and many of these creations are included in the exhibition. Photo above: Valentino with models c.2007 Lorenzo Agius
In addition to the exquisite fashions on display,(the dress above is black velvet with white ribbons) including many which have never been seen outside the Valentino atelier, there is also a glimpse into his private life, with personal photographs, and images of his life at work and play from his archive in France. Valentino: Master of Couture is a fascinating opportunity to view the behind-the-scenes world of the designer, and to experience close up, the magnificence of his amazing couture craftsmanship. Exhibition continues through 3 March 2013. www.somersethouse.org.uk JG
1st December 2012 Art Deco has been a source of inspiration since the style was first created in the 1920s, and it has seen something of a spectacular resurgence in the Spring/Summer this year. For this season and next, designers pick out the glamorous details of this style to dramatic effect across clothing, jewellery, accessory lines – and spectacles and sunglasses too. From sparkling metallics to jewel tones and bold geometric gold patterns and finishes, this is a chic style with plenty of glitz and colour to get you in the Christmas spirit. Image credit: Eyestylist.comCN