December 2012

2nd Skin

Lucas de Stael

Leather is unusual in eyewear or more often used as a trim with other materials. I tried this design on a few weeks ago, and it felt soft and pliable and looks incredibly unique as it is made from one piece and has no hinges. Handmade in Paris, the style pictured here in a gorgeous rich purple is one of the colours that stood our for me in the new collection from Undostrial and designer Lucas de Stael, who already produces some very special designs featuring wood. 4 shapes and 5 colours are featured in 2nd Skin. The frames have an invisible metal core giving them their strength and easy adjustability and making it easy to clip in the lenses. Innovative! http://undostrial.com/ CN

Peleo

Epos Milano

A stark black design I saw in Paris, Peleo by EPOS is a classic, timeless frame but totally trendy right now: it offers the kind of price tag that many would hope for for a nice quality, robust frame with a simple yet strong design. The style carries tinted lenses very well too, giving it a strong wayfarer look. On the website you can test the optical frame with different lens colour choices which is a cute tool if you haven’t made up your mind which tone you like best. For more information, visit www.eposmilano.com//product/show/77/173 CN

Jono Hennessy

Optical Creativity in Australia

1st December 2012 The lively, joyous colours in frame collections by Jono Hennessy gives a clue to his location – Sydney Australia. Here in “down under” -with  kangaroos and koala bears, amazing surfing and natural splendours, and the dazzling Opera House, is where Hennessy and his lovely, vivacious wife Louise, create eyewear that is sold globally. The land and its history are all inspiration for eyewear designer Jono Hennessy – where outdoor pursuits and cultual dimensions merge comfortably. The latest version of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s memorable “The Great Gatsby” (opening in spring 2013) was filmed in Australia. “My designs, inspirations, and philosophy include growing up in the surf culture of Australia, where Billabong, Mambo and Quiksilver were born,” says Hennessy “and we grew up with the same rebellious approach to what we liked, and what was exciting around us. There were no rules – no magazines or people telling us what was cool – or not. You just created things that you liked and reacted to.  I studied graphic design and marketing at the School of Visual Art in Sydney – when I started my business, I did exactly the opposite to everything I had been taught at school.

“For me an influence is what creates excitement, or love, or respect, or intellectual appreciation. An influence has to give you a feeling of butterflies in your stomach and a ‘wow, isn’t that clever,” or “doesn’t that look incredible’!” For eyewear, the influences come from the influences of fashion.So when architecture moves to wood and natural products, we know this will appear in fashion, as it has over the past two to three years. Or it can be an influence of the 1920’s. I saw a Bally 1920’s flying jacket in the window of a store the other day, and was excited by how clever it was, and it engendered the feeling of a First World War fighter pilot heading off on a terrible mission. I got butterflies looking at it. Maybe that is all a bit strange, but as a designer, the joy is in what you make from these influences, how well you make it, and how it feels.

 

Catseye colour and craftsmanship by Jono Hennessy

“I love acetate. I love its softness, and its strength to hold the lenses and metal hinges. I love the feel of acetate and the smell when it comes out of the polishing barrels. I love that we use the best polish in the world in the barrels. My joy is to fill the samples with metal files – these are long metal files with turned wooden handles. They are mainly used in wood working, but I use them to hand shape the acetate. I found these metal files in a country market in Tasmania. They were made by an expert craftsman who was so proud of his work. So my influences are fashion – when it results from other influences such as periods in time, like architecture and industrial design, and of course, my passion for Pop Art”. www.jonohennessy.com JG

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Sjaöu Boutique

Eyewear Inspiration on The Nordic Island

1st December 2012 Seventeen years ago, Gylfi Björnsson and his wife, Anna Björnsdottir, opened their eyewear boutique Sjaôu in Reykjavik, Iceland. A new chapter in their eyewear story began earlier this year, with the launch of a charming boutique in a new location. “Our customers cover a very broad spectrum of the population of Reykjavik and surrounding areas,” says Gylfi, “and they are mainly people from 15-55 years of age, urban, creative individuals. Ranging from university professors to members of the Icelandic Symphonic Orchestra, or simply the city-centre-café-latte-drinkers and lifestyle enthusiasts, we take great pride in the loyalty of our customers, who usually come back again and again for our personal service and quality eyewear.”

The designer names featured in the shop include Framers, Paul Frank, Theo, Caroline Abram, Moscot and Mykita, among others. Large windows allow passersby an unobstructed view from the street into the shop. The concept is minimalist, with warmth, comfort and a very pleasant ambience. “We have noticed that customers seem to be looking for more conservative/earth tones, or ‘safer’ colours like black, blue, or dark brown, and tortoise has been popular as well. Which is interesting and could be connected to the post-crisis mentality that is a major topic here in Iceland, and is opposite to the pre-2008 economic collapse style that was all about bright colours and crazy shapes. Round shapes and Panto-style glasses remind us of early 20th century design, as well as the continuing 50’s and 60’s plastic frame trend.”

“We have ‘special happenings’ at Sjaöu. In August, we take part in the annual “Culture Night” and offer in-store concerts and a Trunk Show from a brand or designer – Theo, Framers or Mykita for example. In December we offer live music on Saturdays, and a special Christmas welcoming evening with a painting exhibition. We want to create a homey and comfortable environment for our customers; we put our ambition into offering high quality products, and we like to make it easy for customers to express their wishes. We believe that the messages we receive from customers ensures a direct way to the best professional solution. Our two principles are: We sell exciting products, and that our customers enjoying come to see us. We welcome everybody into the shop for consulting, or even just for a talk!” Sjaöu Boutique Hverfisgata 52, Reykjavik, IcelandJG

 

Valentino – Master Couturier

Legendary Fashion Designer Retrospective

1st December 2012 The splendid neo-classical building Somerset House is the spectacular setting for the glamorous exhibition Valentino: Master of Couture. During Valentino’s fifty years as a celebrated couturier, he has crafted breathtakingly beautiful designs, worn by icons ranging from Grace Kelly to Jackie Kennedy Onassis, and Sophia Loren to Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece. Valentino is often associated with his signature colour “Valentino Red”, and many of these creations are included in the exhibition. Photo above: Valentino with models c.2007 Lorenzo Agius

Valentino 1992-1993 Fall Winter Haute Couture

In addition to the exquisite fashions on display,(the dress above is black velvet with white ribbons) including many which have never been seen outside the Valentino atelier, there is also a glimpse into his private life, with personal photographs, and images of his life at work and play from his archive in France. Valentino: Master of Couture is a fascinating opportunity to view the behind-the-scenes world of the designer, and to experience close up, the magnificence of his amazing couture craftsmanship. Exhibition continues through 3 March 2013. www.somersethouse.org.uk JG