to all our sponsors and readers – we wish you health and joy in this New Year. We launch 2013 celebrating the start of our 3rd year with Eyestylist, and some exciting changes. We have initiated a new format for our Reviews, where we will select themed trends. For January, the accent is on Super Brights – with frames in the most amazing fluo colours – click on REVIEWS to find out more! In Boutiques, we spotlight a lovely Concept Store in Switzerland, and in City Guides, throughout the month, you’ll find news on books, fashion, exhibitions and more on the cultural scene. For what’s happening in eyewear and fashion, click and stay with Eyestylist!
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30th January 2013 ‘opti’ – the German trade show, where I have been this weekend, searching out new trends – has highlighted again that the independent eyewear designers are setting the bar very high when it comes to quality, comfort and achievements in design and fashion styling. There is an extraordinary attention to minutiae – for comfort and aesthetics – and respect for time-honoured techniques in many of the leading creative collections. Here is a first taste of what is coming…our observations on the individual trends and directions will follow in the weeks ahead.
Above, Pierre Eyewear’s collection for 2013 combines French old-school glamour re-imagined in exciting colours and inventive shapes. Catch a glimpse, if you can, of Pierre’s new campaign images which are a discovery in themselves. www.pierre-eyewear.com
Italian wood label FEB31st launched a collaborative project with Riva 1920 this weekend in Munich. The frames in the edition are made from ancient kauri wood from New Zealand which has been preserved underground for 48000 years. Stefano Cipriani explained to me that the company has developed their own techniques to be able to create the frames in this exceptional natural material which has a unique texture, colour and smell. www.feb31st.it
Luca Gnecci Ruscone, Founder of L.G.R. showed us their elegant optical collection at the Munich show, and their growing sunglasses collection which featured this handsome patterned piece. He also gave me a sneak peak of a wonderful new L.G.R. Limited Edition – more on that coming up. www.lgr-sunglasses.com
28th January 2013Fashion excitement in eyewear is not for adults only! OG Mini-Icons are fun, colourful, and have all the attributes that parents look for – safety, durability, and protection. The frames are mini replicas of fabulous OG vintage designs. We are particularly fond of the styles featured here – Carl (above left) and Sophia (right) – innovative shapes that children will love.
The adorable little fashionista (above) wears Bude – vintage charm in luminous acetate. Other vibrant colours are available too – plus the craftsmanship and styling of OG Mini-Icons are a wonderful way to introduce youngsters to quality and beauty in eyewear. www.olivergoldsmith.comJG
25th January 2013 From Benjamin Franklin to Mahatma Ghandi, John Lennon to Jackie O, the round shape has been the preference of intellectuals and style setters. Now round has returned – in some magnificent variations that combine the charm of the original shape, with new colours and curves. Lunettes Kollektion in Berlin has a gorgeous example in La Passante – a gracious round shape in delicious pastels, such as the robin egg blue model (above) www.lunettes-kollektion.com
Paris designer Lucas de Staël launched his own collection last year – LDS – and the elegant goatskin design above (style 15 Grisbleu) combines classic and contemporary elements in a round shape. www.lucasdestael.com
A distinctive round design is highlighted in tortoise acetate (above Bassa) one of several interesting variations on round shapes in wonderful colours by Blue Magic Eye. Definitely classic chic! www.bluemagiceye.comJG
23rd January 2013 A hot new sunglasses project from E&E glasses in Swedish Lapland has caught our attention today. This is a collaboration with Swedish band, Sahara Hotnights to celebrate the music scene in Sweden. “The sunglasses in this edition are inspired by strong women like Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe,” explained CEO Emilia Lindmark. “It’s got the feel of the American West Coast meeting the Swedish Midnight Sun.” Voluptuous and striking in a classical 50s colour palette this range will be released in March. We will keep you updated!
22nd January 2013Mariano Fortuny created his amazing fashion and textiles in the early 20th century in the magical surroundings of Venice Italy. Women adored his flowing, fluid dresses – Isadora Duncan was a fan. Nowadays, his glorious dresses can be seen in the Museo Fortuny in Venice, where he lived and worked. Fortunately, his exquisite textiles are still available and manufactured on the island of Giudecca. In the just published, lavishly illustrated book – FORTUNY INTERIORS – readers are transported around the globe, to stunning homes that are decorated in Fortuny textiles.
Fortuny loved fabrics, fashion and technology, and his designs include luxurious silks and velvets – he was a true Renaissance man. This book pays homage to Fortuny’s textile genius, and how his sophisticated designs continue to inspire an international following. Mickey Riad, who with his brother Maury, now own the company, edited FORTUNY INTERIORS, and they commented:”We feel honoured and blessed to carry on this incredible legacy.” www.fortuny.comJG
21st January 2013 I really don’t think that decorated frames can get much better than this. I have been waiting for these pictures. From designer Chris Mascré and handmade in France, if you see these up close you will, like me, fall in love with them. The contrast between the Swarovski and jet black frame is played out perfectly. The catty frame above is called Kis and as well as the colourful decorative excitement it has a very elegant, curvaceous sculptured shape.
Their other Limited Edition is the Rok 100 which is studded across the frame and all the way along the temples with Swarovski stones and 18kt gold. Artistic sparkle for the lover of hand-produced eyewear, we recommend catching sight of these in Munich this week. www.vuedc.comCN
18th January 2013 The colour green is associated with many positive images – it is the symbol of nature, wellbeing, ecology, rebirth and harmony. Eyewear designers are creatively interpreting green variations, and the result is exciting, uplifting and stylish frames. Theo in Belgium – who say that “green is our middle name” – present a bright and brilliant green acetate frame from their cyclists collection – Merckx (above). The colour play juxtaposes vivid green with neutrals for a striking design. www.theo.be
Face à Face Paris is also going green this season, with a lovely group of green-inspired designs, including this sophisticated frame with a smooth matt stainless steel front, and handmade acetate temples in contrasting tones (above Smoke 1). This frame derives from the fascination for the mythic image of Audrey Hepburn holding a chic “porte-cigarette”. The design is a delightful mix of contemporary elegance, with the vivacious spirit of Audrey. Note the distinctive artistic touch with the nose design! www.faceaface-paris.comJG
15th January 2013 His Royal Highness Crown Prince Frederik and her Royal Highness Crown Princess Mary of Denmark (above) visited Hong Kong and Beijing to experience how Danish design is thriving in the Chinese Market. CEO Henrik Lindberg (far right) and Marketing Director Peter Warrer (far left) proudly showed their Royal Highnesses the newest Lindberg Eyewear Collection.
In honour of the royal visit, Lindberg hosted a fabulous fashion event (above) in collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur and House of Amber – two Danish designer brands that are very successful in the Chinese market. Four hundred VIP guests from China visited the Danish Embassy in Beijing to attend an open sky fashion show, a Christmas tree charity auction, and a gala dinner in the presence of royalty. The temperatures plummeted to minus 11 degrees in the embassy courtyard, so the models were fortunate to be wearing fur coats! To ward off the winter freeze, guests enjoyed a cup of the traditional, warm Danish drink “Glogg”.
CEO Henrik Lindberg told Eyestylist: “Frames are more visible than before, and fashion is a bigger and bigger issue. You can wear our frames from twenty years ago, and they are totally modern – they never go out of style. What opportunity the world gives us!” The exciting events in China successfully illustrate Lindberg’s strong eyewear presence in the global marketplace. www.lindberg.comJG
11th January 2013 We are attracted by the unusual in eyewear, and we certainly don’t like to miss a frame that explores a new concept. The Swedish label Hyde’s Spectacles have been collaborating with Ann-Sofie Back and the result is this dramatic little piece in acetate and metal (and an oversized mask or visor “Hyde’s for Back” style, but this is the one that jumped out at me in particular) that I’d say should be on the collector’s lists for 2013.
Back is the Swedish fashion maverick whose designs are described habitually as subversive, so this unusual combo frame -which loosely interprets a cat’s eye but works it into quite an angular bug eye shape with an acetate top – is in line with her imaginative fashion creations – perhaps you will remember her blood-dripping sunnies back in 2009?
This new Hyde’s/Back collaboration looks set to go places. The Hyde’s team are big on fashion and personality in eyewear and are already a fixture at Paris Fashion Week – and knowing their own label they are keen on carefully made pieces that offer superior quality. Another label to watch from Sweden! www.ehydes.com/sunglasses.htmlCN More on Hyde’s on Eyestylist: www.eyestylist.com/2011/05/model-no-3/
1oth January 2013 Our friends José Castellanos and Elena Orestano from Mexico City have created a very special Dr. York concept store in Los Angeles. They told us all about it in Paris a few months ago while the work was in progress! The store is now open and it is looking amazing.
Set up to bring new generation independent eyewear brands to L.A., the eclectic mix of up-and-coming brands includes many favourites at Eyestylist…. Italian labels Res/Rei and Blue Magic Eye; from Sweden, Oscar Magnuson, from Paris, Caroline Abram, from Rome, L.G.R. by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, and many more. As in the Mexico City store, there is also a special vintage collection on offer; each design from the past has been lovingly restored to its former glory by the owners.
The architect-designed interior has the feel of an art gallery with some of the personal vibe of the Mexico store we find so engaging – with similar touches such as the welcoming chair outside. At the new store you will also be welcomed by Elena’s charming golden retriever and running companion, Renzo.
We wish we could have been there in December for the opening – our eye is on this store for how things develop and which labels will be added in the months ahead. Good luck Dr. York Los Angeles! CNDr. York Optical, 8302 West 3rd Street (at South Sweetzer Avenue), Los Angeles – 310-857-6797.
8th January 2013 Vanni Eyewear, the Turin-based label, celebrated its new Vanni frame collection last month at an art gathering for Autofocus, an arts competition that has been sponsored by the brand for the last four years. The label organised the exhibition at The Others, a popular art space and Turin’s former prison.
The event was attended by the winning artists of Autofocus and many guests and these pictures featuring the acetate frames caught our eye. The guests included artist Christopher Kline – www.hushhushhush.com – pictured above wearing Vanni Happy Days; Laura Bartoli of Minigallery_Assisi – http://www.minigallery.it/ (below) pictured wearing Vanni Backlight and Claudio Composti (below) of Mc2gallery in Milan (www.mc2gallery.it), wearing Vanni Blade.
Vanni Eyewear’s acetate collection for 2013 includes a fresh mix of colours and gorgeous patterning with surprising effects. For further information on Vanni Eyewear visit www.vanniocchiali.com. For one of our most recent posts on styles from this collection, click on www.eyestylist.com/2013/01/vanni-solid/CN
5th January 2013This is an exciting time for children’s eyewear – as noted by Clodagh on Eyestylist 1st January 2013. Very desirable eyewear for the young set features shapes that are prevalent in grown up designs – especially the Renaissance of lovely round shapes, and the continuing allure of cats eye designs. A charming new style – Sunny – (above) from the eminent children’s eyewear company Zoobug, highlights the Mini Me look with its stylish round form. Available in black, amber and lovely brights. Image above from the new Zoobug look book 2013, photo by www.flanneryokafka.blogspot.com/www.zoobug.com
Beautiful Belle above) wears a sleek mini cat eye (style 0724) in tortoise acetate by Red Optical. The Netherlands based company has a delightful range of styles that youngsters will really enjoy wearing. Great colours too! Both Zoobug and Red Optical have eyewear collections that are fun, fashionable, and expertly crafted to cope with energetic children’s activities! www.redoptical.comJG
The new colours are coming…and we have created a new presentation in our reviews where we will pick the stand-out trends. To start, the super brights, from oranges and lemons to the big buzz on turquoise and other great chic shouts of colour. This round shape from The Row – model Row 45 – is likely to fare well in the spring and summer months as a fashion piece. The style comes in ochre, beige, bottle green (an ideal new choice for 2013) and teracotta – pictured above with solid dark red lenses – as well as classic black or tortoise. The style here also has luxe dark red soft lamb skin covered arms combined with stainless steel inserts to top things off, as well as CR39 lenses. The Row’s designers, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen were named womenswear designers of the year 2012 by The Council of Fashion Designers of America. CN www.therow.com / For the new Linda Farrow website go to www.lindafarrow.co.uk
The French label BOZ has some quirky upbeat treats coming for 2013, and here is one of their most exciting new shapes. The turquoise is laid over panther print. The design – both the butterfly shape and glam colours – are the combo for dressing up! Gorgeous and very original in the bright colour selections we have seen, and the super elegant white with panther is also very tempting. BOZ has other must-haves in this line if you love feminine statement pieces – I have fallen for the curvy pink version of Spice 8000. www.boz-eyewear.com CN
Apart from being a big fan of the Erdem fashion collections, it is exciting to see this label joining up with Linda Farrow for the first time for Spring/Summer 2013. These stainless steel sunglasses are inspired by insects and their antenna and it is in my top 10 list of must-have, head-turning styles for 2013 already. The fashion designer has created a shape and look that is quite different from anything we have seen in 2012, that brings lots of glamour and elegance with it, suggesting that we are on the cusp of a new trend for statement metal designs. The mirrored lenses are particularly dramatic in the design which has been modified from a cat’s eye shape. These shades are available in purple petrol, ice blue, yellow petrol (our number one choice), silver metal and lilac metal, with expertly coordinated lens colours and mirrors. They have just gone live on the Linda Farrow site, from £237.00 or $400 here http://us.lindafarrow.com/erdem-2www.erdem.co.ukhttp://uk.lindafarrow.com/ CN
Vidal Erkohen of RVS by V. is a colourist and loves the bolder colour stories and the unexpected results of pairing bright tones….I recently saw one of his new yellow sunnies but I also like this fluo-like colour. Made in Turkey, the RVS by V. sunnies are custom made and therefore you can choose a big colourful statement mirror lens to go with the frame colours of your choice. The signature matt finish gives an added potency to the colours available. Find out more at www.rvsbyv.com CN
Heidi Chan judges her collections very carefully and produces strong, vibrant sunglass styles for the fashion pack with some very desirable detailing including pressed flowers in acetate that I hope to show you soon. Heidi has talked to me in detail about the process used to make her designs, and her knowledge and enthusiasm for a craft that runs in her family is impressive. This style (H1021) is a stunner and an easy fix if you want big colour but a feminine take on super bright colour blocking. We think it is a style to lounge about it in by the pool – but it would be perfectly fitting for city wear. Available at Henri Bendel in New York and selected stockists around the world. See Heidi’s full collection and a full list of stockists at www.heidilondon.comCN
Vanni has created this line of frames in solid plain-tone acetate that work really well. The colours are stunning and the shapes included tend to be quite broad and trendy. These are made exclusively in Italy with colours ranging from ‘energy’ orange, ‘dreamer’ pink, and ’emotive’ turquoise to ‘creative’ purple. We’ve seen the full collection and we were very impressed with the freshness of the colour presentation. www.vanniocchiali.comCN
Designer Patty Perreira at Barton Perreira always comes up with sophisticated colourways, and this red version of the model Sherilyn is a classic acetate that would be a winner in 2013 if colour is something that you want to explore. The clean shade of red – referred to as “bourgeois” – and easy retro shape combine to perfection. Find more styles and colourways at www.bartonperreira.comCN
Another brightly toned collection of nicely produced spectacles, this time from one of our favourite Danish labels, Kilsgaard. The styles in this range are clean and simple and made of a combination of aluminium and acetate, a bit unusual but lovely and light and robust when it comes to wear and tear. As Jacob Kilsgaard has explained to me in the past, the aim is for tech solutions that are really elegant. This is one of the colours that will take 2013 by storm! See the collection at www.kilsgaard-eyewear.com and see our previous editorial at www.eyestylist.com/2012/08/model-39-10/. CN
I love this colour and it works beautifully in this high-quality combination design by Face à Face, the Parisian eyewear label. A shade that will be strong for this year, here it is layered onto a very pale contrasting and delicious looking mint. A delight and very pretty on many complexions, this whole collection is one that holds many surprising colours for the new season and particularly interesting combinations including some much loved tortoise designs for women. www.face-a-faceparis.comCN
I first saw a few of the titanium designs from this collection in September and I hope to see how things develop in their collections in the next 12 months. Based in Antwerp the company prides itself on European production; it is part of a larger company called EyeTech Art who produce other lines including pieces of jewellery that also require work in titanium and diamond-cutting. Perfetto is a good and colourful example of the luxe styling in its bold and durable Titanium 0.5 Collection. Stockists include Les Plus Belles Lunettes du Monde in Paris, and Icon the Opticians in London. http://ateliervingtdeux.com/CN
1st January 2013Fashion Designers A-Z is truly a beautiful book – a luscious voyage with designer greats of the 20th and 21st centuries who have changed the fashion landscape. Taschen, the German book company, has published this fascinating and stunning edition. This work is co-authored by Valerie Steele, director and curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, (and an eyewear fan – see Eyestylist 1st April 2012) and Suzy Menkes the doyenne fashion editor and influential fashion critic of the International Herald Tribune. Lavishly illustrated, the book features photos of over 500 garments from the permanent collection at the FIT Museum, with designs by Coco Chanel, Cristobal Balenciaga, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen among others, and the text explains the significance of each design, and its importance in fashion history.
The book is available as a series of six Designer Editons, bound in a fabric created by one of six designers who are ‘au courant’ today, including Akris (designed by Albert Kriemler) Stella McCartney, Missoni, Prada, and Diane Von Furstenberg. Albert Kriemler’s design (top photo) features a race car motif pattern for the Akris Edition of 2000 copies, which was created in the spirit of the devil-may-care-elegance of John Frankenheimer’s 1966 movie Grand Prix. Kriemler – whom I’ve had the pleasure of meeting in the beautiful atmosphere of St. Gallen Switzerland, where the company is based – is a favourite designer of Princess Charlene of Monaco. His designs subtly capture the spirit of modernity and quiet chic, as in the design from the 2011 collections (above ) in printed wool mousseline with a metal chain belt. Fashion Designers A-Z is a one-of-a-kind book – crafted by hand in Italy and individually stamped. It’s a remarkable visualisation of fashion, social history, and a poignant tribute to fashion creators. www.taschen.comwww.akris.chJG
Akris image Copyright 2012 The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
1st January 2013 Followers of Eyestylist know that I really love Switzerland, and I have found yet another reason to be enchanted – a delightful Concept Store in Geneva – Le Labo. The boutique is the creation of Leila Krir, an optician with fashion flair, optical expertise and unbounded enthusiasm. “I worked in the luxury eyewear sector for more than ten years,” explains Leila, “and I acquired great experience and know how in high-end client relationships. I met a lot of opticians and eyewear designers, and I fell in love with many concept stores that I visited during my different journeys. That’s where the idea of combining both the fashion and eyewear aspects originated.”
The boutique opened in September 2011 and the shop features an impressive roster of eyewear designers: L.G.R., Lotho, Andy Wolf, Prism, Strada del Sole, Retrospecs, Marma London, La Loop and Linda Farrow among others. In addition, Le Labo has a variety of unusual accessories that include scarves from Yarnz, hats from Inverni and cuff links by Samuel Gassmann. Leila is also researching other accessories to introduce into the boutique for next summer.
The fashion and optical profile is further highlighted with monthly events held in the boutique. “We could have a designer appearance – like Italia Independent, or have a vintage theme, or a Christmas motif, perhaps combining with other stores in Geneva who have the same philosophy,” says Leila, “as our typical customer is trendy and demanding – looking for the ‘rare pearl’.” If Geneva or somewhere in the region is your destination, do include Le Labo on your ‘must see’ list – it’s a wonderful celebration of fashion eyewear and accessories. www.lelabo-geneva.com JG
1st January 2013 January is the start of a new hunt for the leading creative designs at Eyestylist.com. I have seen much of Anne et Valentin’s 2013 sun and optical collection but I shall be revisiting this one over and over in the months ahead. One of the women’s specs that pops out from what I have seen so far is this vibrant cat style Adele (above) – a modern take on the traditional catty shape designed in sweet colours including a shiny tortoise and a forest and emerald green. The style is featured in the label’s look book 2013 which we have found very inspiring. And the cat’s eye shape is a safe choice again in 2013 – it’s going to be popular. www.anneetvalentin.com
At Theo, the creative eyewear specialists in Antwerp, we have been much impressed by the houndstooth trend they have reinterpreted in frames, first reviewed by Eyestylist here: www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/ew-te-227/. A totally inspired Eye Witness collection combining the innovative, reproduced pattern and trendy colour pairings such as the red with orange highlighted here, we are following this design concept with a close eye. www.theo.be
ic! berlin say they will be showing a new selection of frames for children in Munich in a few weeks time (opti ’13), including this perky little shape with cute eye lashes. This is one of a number of highlights we predict are coming in children’s spectacle design this year. www.ic-berlin.deCN