April 2013

Bespoke at Oliver Goldsmith

10th April 2013

A unique service for handcrafted eyewear

10th April 2013 Last month we were back at Oliver Goldsmith HQ in London, a visit that allowed us a chance to become more acquainted with the extraordinary OG archive and its rows of iconic designs. We also learnt about their bespoke service and how you can have a frame inspired by the vintage archive made especially for you. This is a unique experience in bespoke creations, and a chance to have your own little piece of eyewear history. “You find it with shoes, you find it with bags, but you have to dig deep to find a bespoke service in eyewear where you can have a frame handmade to your chosen design and sizing,” explained Zoe Cosby as we pulled open drawer upon drawer of inspiring Oliver Goldsmith designs from the past. “The bespoke frames are made in the last surviving British eyewear factory individually and by hand, it’s a painstaking process with a result that is comparable to the finest bespoke products available.”

Oliver Goldsmith archive, OG store London

If you don’t live in London or the UK and can’t get to the Oliver Goldsmith store itself, there are now over 10 stores around the world that can measure and order a bespoke handcrafted Oliver Goldsmith acetate style for you. They include LA’s famous Gogosha Optique – www.gogosha.com and the very unique Eyesite boutique in Philadelphia – http://eyesite-phila.com/. Find the OG Store at: www.olivergoldsmith.com/shop.aspx

LOFT Santa Monica Show October 16th and 17th

MIDO 6-8 February 2027. Welcome to Eyewearland

SILMO Paris - The Optical Fair. 25th - 28th September 2026

Photography by Margarida Viegas exclusively for Eyestylist.com CN

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Christian Roth and Eric Domège

8th April 2013

A new story, rooted in the past, at Christian Roth Eyewear

8th April 2013 I first started following Christian Roth when I got my first job in optical publishing back in 1999. In the ’80s and ’90s, this independent label had already played an impressive role in establishing sunglasses as a key accessory in the fashion arena, and their glamorous shades were worn by everyone who was anyone in fashion and music…memorably, because of the extraordinary images that ensued, Kate Moss, Agyness Dean, Lenny Kravitz, and many, many more.

Series A, Optical Affairs Christian Roth / circa 19?? — PAST: Series A, Christian Roth / 1980s

Today Roth and Domège have new plans, both in eyewear and beyond, with new capsule collections including optical frames and sunglasses, and other Christian Roth accessories that they will unveil in 2014/15 via the website. As part of our special Vintage Edition, we asked them, in an exclusive interview, about their new project, the launch of their e-commerce destination and what the future holds for this iconic name in sunglass fashion.

PAST: Optical Affairs / Christian Roth, the early years – signed by Warhol

“Our first overnight success was with Series A (above), our rimless frame in acetate and metal, designed so you could customise the lens shape with the colour of the frame. It was something very different back then, so that it became an overnight success and went straight on the cover of WWD. At that time, we were seeing our frames on all kinds of influential people from different walks of life, from Andy Warhol to Diana Ross, but it wasn’t endorsement, they were genuinely buying our frames and wanting to wear them because they loved them. It was incredible. It is our privilege to have lived in NYC in that period when celebrity culture was not such an issue.

“In the early 90s we joined the CFDA, thanks to Anna Wintour and Candy Pratts Price (the US Vogue team) who wanted the best eyewear designers on board as part of the Association; that was another important moment. We were the first to be a part of it, we were there at the right time! And it offered so much – we were given the support of Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs as our ‘godfathers’. We began to work with these very big designers. We had a very inspiring working relationship with Karl Lagerfeld for the runway shows and collaborations with the most prolific and talented designers of our times continued for decades. We had our own studio in New York and we started to run private views of our collections. It was in a very cool place next door to a famous agency where we met a very young Claudia Schiffer.

Kaleidoscopic Cool by Christian Roth — PRESENT: From the new Christian Roth BLOCK-ON Capsule 2013

“Today we have completely redefined the Christian Roth concept, our image, and collections – placing the spotlight on the best of “Christian Roth”. We have created a whole new life for the brand adding fun, excitement and the unexpected for eyewear aficionados. Our goal is to now connect through our crisp, conceptual and modern e-commerce destination – www.christian-roth.com – with our many visionary fans from all over the world, and to reach more seekers of beautiful and unique eyewear. It is a very different, very personal site, where you can get behind the scenes.

“In 2013, the new frames will be availably via the site and through a few ambassador optical stores. Our first Block-On capsule collection includes Italian acetates and Japanese titanium. It is all about craftsmanship, high-quality and mixing geometric, precise, graphic and modern elements. We have worked in a very detailed way with special touches, mixing colour and chic transparent tones. Every frame is crafted by artisans to have its own identity and uniqueness, and we will renew our capsule every few months with new additions, another unusual concept in eyewear that we feel will be exciting for our online customers. On the site, we have added a small shopping area for rare vintage designs, both our own and others; it is something fun, for collectors and people who love the history of frames. The site also shows our support for OrphanAid Africa, something which touches our hearts.

“For the future we want Christian Roth to grow into a one-of-a-kind independent accessory brand with new categories which we will launch in 2014/15. We believe this is really something that will complement our frames and the spirit of the brand and appeal to the luxury market’s expectations. We have a great devotion to eyewear, and it is exciting for us to develop a new choice of accessories that will make sense for Christian Roth Eyewear”. CN

www.christian-roth.com

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New vintage – three picks for Summer

8th April 2013

8th April 2013 If you love vintage and would like to start the S/S season with a new frame with vintage overtones, we have picked three pieces that make a modern statement. Choose from classic round, oversized with a flat top or super feminine butterfly. The colours are perfect for now; soft and calming pastels and natural tones that feel fresh and easy as temperatures start to climb.

The latest from Mykita / Damir Doma is model DD04 (above), launching in May in the Damir Doma flagship store and selected retailers. It’s a sculptured take on the round shape, this time in acetate, and it is deeply rooted in the 1930s, with its clean-cut minimal temples. A super no-fuss reinterpretation of an old classic design, with colours ranging from tortoise to amber, the collection was presented at Damir Doma’s A/W 13/14 catwalk show. www.mykita.com

For more on the first releases in this collaborative collection which explored material combinations, visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/10/trend-watch-juxtaposed-materials/

From Dutch designer Ralph Vaessen, we have noticed this wonderful contemporary super luxe sunglass style that is made in Germany by hand. Vaessen is a master in luxury horn, and it is interesting to see how he has accomplished a combination of genuine horn and coloured wood – that’s a rarity in eyewear. Model Constance boasts fine details such as the layering effect at either side of the front of the frame and it has a delicate butterfly shape, with subtle graduated lens colour to match the natural tones of the horn and coloured wood. It’s a frame that is likely to remain covetable for seasons to come. See the S/S collection by Ralph Vaessen at www.ralphvaessen.com

Point of View - Amnesia — Point of View – Amnesia – handmade in Turkey

For instant attitude, look no further than the Turkish independent label, RVS by V.’s new project, Point of View (POV), and their bold sunglasses collection which I previewed in Milan in early March. There are 20 models (each offered in 3 or 4 colours), all quite different with a lot of retro elements, from pearlised finishes and marbling effects to the use of old-school materials such as tortoise. Designer Vidal Erkohen is a vintage collector who has brought his love of the past to the drawingboard for this launch. “With POV, I wanted to make something different on a new level that is distinctive from our RVS by V. collection.”

My style in this collection was the oversized flat-top, Amnesia (pictured above in clear/apple but also very nice in black); with its contrasting browline, this design speaks volumes if you are looking for a cool, urban mood. Stockists include Dr. York, LA and Astrologo Ottica, Rome. www.rvsbyv.com and coming soon to www.poveyeworks.com CN

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Götti Celebrates!

4th April 2013

Happy 20th Anniversary Götti Switzerland

Götti Switzerland family and friends, opticians and customers, and the wonderful Götti staff toasted the company’s 20th anniversary in Lucerne with delicious Swiss specialities, music, dancing and festivities. Eyestylist was delighted to participate in this occasion, and we had an opportunity to chat with founder and designer Sven Götti. “This is such a good and special moment,” said Götti, “as when we opened the store it was my dream to design. However, I felt I needed to learn more about optics and what customers really wanted. So we started slowly, and it’s a good feeling to know that people like what we create.”

Götti Switzerland: style, innovation and technology

Twenty years on, Götti designs have global reach in more than 1200 speciality shops around the world. The company has been recognised with prestigious awards including the Red Dot, The Swiss Economic Award, and the Travel & Leisure Award. Götti creations are a trinity of style, technical accomplishments and innovation. Watch this space for more news on the exciting Götti exhibition, that will be travelling to various European cities. Congratulations to Sven and the Götti team! www.gotti.ch JG

Photos: Top photo: Sven Götti with his dog Lucky Copyright: Gilles Stüssi

Arts + travel

Paris Haute Couture

1st April 2013

Designer Masterpieces at Paris City Hall

1st April 2013 The elegant surroundings of Paris City Hall celebrates haute couture with a dazzling selection of designs by fashion luminaries from Doucet to Dior, Chanel to Courrèges, and Vionnet to Yves Saint Laurent. The exhibition is organised in collaboration with the Galliera Museum in Paris and Swarovski, whose crystals have a long history with haute couture and designers. Over one hundred designs are featured – many of which have never been on public display before. Haute couture was born in Paris in the mid-19th century, and since then, generations of designers have transformed this supposedly frivolous discipline into high art.

Haute Couture elegance from Bruyere 1944

What is amazing on viewing the gorgeous assemblage of outfits is to think of the talent and skills in the hands of the people who made the designs a reality – embroiders and plumassiers (feather workers); hands that knew exactly how and where to place or form a flower and other couture embellishments. The exhibition is a beautiful tribute to Haute Couture and provides insight into the behind the scenes process of world-famous fashion houses. The exhibition continues through 6 July 2013 at Paris City Hall, Saint-Jean Room, 5 rue Lobau, 75004 Paris. Open every day except Sundays and bank holidays, from 10h00 to 19h00. JG

Photos: Coutresy of Paris City Hall Top photo: Balenciaga Evening Outfit August 1967