..is an international journey – we have searched far and wide for exclusive summer stories, and we thank the designers who have collaborated with us.
Start your global voyage and click on REVIEWS for innovative frames.Our Designer of the Month is a vintage collector from Istanbul, and in Rome,
we highlight a boutique run by a trendsetting team of eyewear connaisseurs. In CITY GUIDES, you’ll find a stunning book for eyewear lovers. We have an month of exciting features lined up, so stay with Eyestylist for eyewear and fashion news.
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28th June 2013 This month, Kilsgaard sunglasses are one of our favourite recommendations for men who want to get away from wearing the obvious. This high-quality Danish label produces clean, precise styling in aluminium, combined, if you wish, with slick luxurious acetate temples. The minimal, classic shapes in their range for men are paired with deep soulful colours and the technical qualities are built in carefully – colours, for example, are anodised so they cannot peel away; the materials are perfectly light for really easy comfort.
Designed in Denmark, produced in Italy and colour anodised back in Denmark – no corners cut here -, styles such as model Sun 6.7/7 below, in a matt green, and the strong masculine shapes such as Sun 5.1/1 and Sun 2.1/1, are fitted with polycarbonate lenses that have coordinating colour tints with the super frame tones. Kilsgaard is an award-winning independent eyewear label (iF Product Design Award 2010 / red dot design award winner in 2010), created by Jacob Kilsgaard in 2007 in a design collaboration with the famous architectural design company, Bonnelycke MDD. CN
25th June 2013 Summer is here, and with a little bit of luck, here to stay! Paulino Spectacles, the young Portuguese eyewear label that we are starting to see in some of our favourites stores in London and Paris, has added some new sunglass styles to its core collection, combining their signature smooth-to-the-touch acetate and expressive shapes. The colours are inspired by the finest vintage palettes, and each design has something charismatic – the eye-catching open circle at the bridge in the cats eye called Filipa is unique to this style.
As a wearer of Paulino’s Naty sunglasses, I can vouch for the quality and out-of-the-ordinary design that is reminiscent of an authentic vintage classic. The acetates are among the finest, classical, and highly polished for a dazzling shine.
To celebrate the launch of Filipa and Diogo sunglasses, Paulino has produced new images featuring different landmarks in the label’s hometown, Lisbon.
Credits: photo shoot (top image): Production and photography : Vilma Costa; models, Andre Costa and Ines Silva; Make-up, Olga Jose. Hair, Aurelio Ramos; assistant, Marcio Neris; Stylist, Silvana Querido, thanks to Roda Gira & Veronique Boutique.
22nd June 2013 Eyestylist is always supportive of independent label collaborations and here is one notable one that has been happening this week at the London Collections: Men (LCM). It’s a link up between Berlin’s Lunettes Kollektion and the young British menswear designer, James Long.
This is not the first collaborative project for Lunettes Kollektion, who have a strong, well-established link with the fashion industry.
According to Long, the Lunettes brand has the right synergy with his latest “Beyond the Velodrome” collection for SS 14. “The fabrication and design detailing of Lunettes Kollektion is really interesting, clever and modern,” he explains. “We thought working with Lunettes would be a great addition to the SS14 collection.”
Appearing in London was the “dandified” circular Flaneur style, with Long’s new colour coding, in white, green, red and blue, paired with classic and much praised frame colours of toffee and incense. The styles coordinated with Long’s cycling-inspired blocked colours, powerful stripes and super, carefully played out details.
21st June 2013This summer the variety of sunglasses available is wonderful – so many desirous styles. Do you visualise yourself in a more exotic frame? Are you ready to try an unusual colour? Are you a classicist, but also want some flair? Here are two designs created to stir the imagination. Lome by Lafont (above) in stainless steel, in a colour explosion of blue and purple, is the perfect frame to add vibrancy to summer fashions. www.lafont.com
Voluminous round shaping highlights Phrase, a chic design by Anne et Valentin. Khaki titanium and burgundy acetate unite in the lens shape, and the double-bridge is elegant and distinctive. www.anneetvalentin.comJG
18th June 2013Statuesque and stunning, Grace Woodward arrives for our meeting wearing a chic black dress, a fabulous gold necklace, and gorgeous Anna-Karin Karlsson sunglasses – she has a passion for beautiful accessories. The London based stylist and director of Grace Woodward Creative looks every inch the part of her busy life as a style coordinator, trend spotter and TV personality. She covered the Royal Wedding for Sky News, and does live fashion reporting from Glorious Goodwood and The York Races. She shares with Eyestylist her approach to being a trend developer.
“While some think that fashion people are all crazy, there are those who appreciate trend information in advance,” says Woodward, “and my antennae is usually about 1-2 years ahead. Then you have to turn this into stuff. Sometimes my timing is too far ahead – but all this does give a different perspective of the world. For Autumn/Winter 2013/14 everything is quite subdued, even for the luxury industry. There are only a few bursts of colour; otherwise everything is safe. It’s a reflection of the times. This is not the moment to step out and take risks.”
Woodward is a champion of the non-conformist. “In the last ten years, we’ve been bombarded with a desire for newness and that is stimulating; however, the flip side is that it’s too conformist. I admire an individual personality like Helena Bonham-Carter. Fashion can be a bit rigid, which you can see with the celebrity conformity. I’m also a proponent of quality, and there is nothing like saving up for something really good. What you wear is an expression of your personality. Fashion is about painting pictures.”
British designer Vivienne Westwood is the person who piqued Grace’s interest in fashion. “Westwood was my first awakening of fashion,” remember Woodward, “because she was about distinctive references. i love her clothes and still do. Alexander McQueen is also a favourite. i like people who want to be more. I feel so fortunate to be near to fashion and working in it – I like the proximity. We have to subvert the past to find the future. Christian Lacroix refers to the past – there is always something more going on in his designs.”
Grace Woodward also has a special kinship with eyewear. “If I don’t wear my glasses, people don’t recognise me! I love Anna-Karin Karlsson designs, Linda Farrow and Retrosuperfuture (top photo). I love clothes and eyewear – rather than ‘fashion’, and I see it as a way of self-expression. www.gracewoodward.comJG
15th June 2013 Nico Design presents a new series of images featuring design students from the International School of Comics, Turin. The shoot will appear in the next issue of the Vanni Magazine, which is out next week on the Vanni website; we absolutely love the pictures featuring comics and art works by the young artists, and we thank Nico Design for sharing them with Eyestylist.com and providing exclusive images.
The girls are wearing Vanni’s Surf-ing sunglasses (above), a new style for 2013 that delivers a youthful design and a yearning for hot summer days. Fitted with graduated nylon lenses developed in soft tones that match each frame colour, the collection cleverly reworks the texture of rock in metal, incorporating both a hammered effect and a high gloss finish.
For more on the Italian eyewear design label Vanni Occhiali and the special edition of the Vanni Magazine, launching next week, visit www.vanniocchiali.comCN
13th June 2013Susanne Klemm is a multi-talented woman – a contemporary jewellery designer, an optician and her latest venture is an exclusive eyewear collection. I so look forward to trying on these frames. When we spoke, Susanne, a Netherlands resident, related that she likes to design in 3D, with an unusual round shape, so it was difficult to find people who could produce these unique frames. With her tenacity she was able to find craftspeople in Venice who hand make the glamorous designs, using fine quality Italian acetate. Face the Face (above) is beautifully faceted with distinctive, strong angles.
Travels light features smaller rounded shaping, and the ultra smooth surface of the acetate provides a graceful tactile expression, and the design is particularly stunning in sea blue. For more about this exciting eyewear designer, visit www.suzyglam.comJG
11th June 2013 Photo shoots are good fun, and hard work too! Photographers and models do get to take a welcome break on occasion. What do the models get up to when the photographer leaves his camera unattended? Well…..on a fashion shoot in Marseille, France for L.G.R. Sunglasses, the models made their own attempt at being the photographer, and were playing around with his camera.
The result is this lovely image of a model wearing L.G.R.’s new Keren CM (top photo). The sleek matt black frame features metal temples, and polarized petroleum mirrored lenses. The design is also available in Havana, with green and gold (above) and black with gold. Definitely a summer style statement! www.lgr-sunglasses.comJG
7th June 2013 I have not come across any other design companies that specialise in stands to hold frames and sunglasses in a stylish and tidy way. Based in San Francisco, Bushakan is run by Tobi Adamolekun and Lauren Van Horn, an architect and ex-lawyer whose hand-finished wood designs have quickly attracted attention in the smartest optical retail circles.
“We select the best grade wood available for our stands and currently use two types of wood, maple and walnut,” explains Tobi. ” The maple is a light wood with a unique combination of brown, tan, white and cream streaks. The streaks give it an amazing range as they reveal the natural characteristics of the wood by showing the broad range of grain colours. The walnut is darker, with a rich chocolate tone and sometimes hints of black, grey and crimson. It has a beautiful grain pattern and is the only dark brown hardwood grown domestically. We are committed to a sustainable model of production; through the whole process we use a special finish on each piece which maintains the beauty of the wood.”
At present the stands hold one, two, three or five frames, or you can choose a design that holds both a frame and iphone, a slick concept for very useful organisation at home. I have received the nicely proportioned three frame stand and the sleek single presentation stand this week, and both have instantly found a place in my work space at home, although the rest of the family seem to have their eye on them too. The Bushakan team are also working on some larger stands for LA’s Gogosha Optique – www.gogosha.com and Oklahoma’s Black Optical – www.blackoptical.com – and they plan to launch these later in the year. To buy online today, visit www.bushakan.com/collections/all CN
5th June 2013Sunshine and warm temperatures have arrived – finally! So it’s the perfect moment to indulge in summer accessories – especially beautiful sunglasses. These distinctive styles have really caught our attention: Orbison (above) by Oliver Goldsmith is sleek and gorgeous in acetate, with an exaggerated cat eye shaping, in a lovely colour called Wakame, named after the delicious edible seaweed. To order Wakame – and other super sunnies from Oliver Goldsmith – click on: http://www.barneys.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-BNY-Site/default/Search-Show?q=oliver+goldsmith+sunglasses
Swedish designer Anna-Karin Karlsson can always be counted on for mesmerizing frames, with creativity, ingenuity and beauty. We love “Cause I flippin’ can” (above) in creamy ivory acetate, embellished with elegant roses. To order online and view more of Anna-Karin’s stunning sunglasses, click on BOUTIQUES on Eyestylist, and then the Anna-Karin Karlsson banner. www.annakarinkarlsson.comJG
Shane Baum at Leisure Society expresses supreme elegance in his design Du Cap. The name is a tribute to the fabulous Hotel Du Cap on the French Rivera, the inspiration for this beautiful frame in titanium and acetate. The titanium temples deserve special mention – they are plated in gold, accented with coloured enamel, and elaborately etched with precise detail. The Mountain Tortoise acetate is achieved with a Tokyo tortoise base, with blacks and yellows, and the top half is then accented with a subtle layer of gold flakes. www.leisure-society.comJG
Danish design is recognised for its clear, pure architectural lines, and Lindberg is the Danish specialist in eyewear. This beautiful frame expresses character and strength. Matt acetate and titanium enhance its classical lines, and the details are superb – from the texture of the acetate, to the distinctive sides in titanium and acetate. www.lindberg.comJG
There is a cosmopolitan attitude and personal touch in eyewear designs by Coppe+Sid. The frames in the collections are named after major global cities, and their respective airports. Each frame is handmade in Italy, numbered, and comes with a warranty to guarantee the customer has the genuine article. Manila (above) in beautiful hues of soft turquoise with surf white sides, expresses a hint of retro with its gentle cat eye shape. www.coppeandsid.comJG
Designer Jeremy Tarian searched for two years to find a particular acetate colour to include in his collections. The Silmo D’Or winner achieved his goal with acetate that looks like horn, created exclusively for Tarian. The variance in the colourations and shadings give De Beauce a classic dignity and beauty. www.jeremytarian.comJG
In a little workshop in Barcelona, Baptiste Vuerich creates original, fun frames handcrafted from old recycled skateboard decks. Vuerich points out that only used decks – which he buys mainly from skateboarder teenagers – are transformed into frames. Cruisin is artfully designed so that the smooth wood grain is evident, and the pale blue sides add a delicate touch. www.vuerichb.comJG
Cool, fresh and pure lines keynote this lovely frame by Tom Stevens. The Netherlands based designer creates quality eyewear for men and women who appreciate refinement and frames with linear flow . Refreshing mint green is the gracious colour for Chloe in beta titanium, that is coated with a special lacquer for sustainability. www.stevenseyewear.comJG
1st June 2013 Vala 9/9 (above) is one of the Limited Edition designs in the evocative Nine Worthies Collection, the most recent launch from the British label Fan Optics. The label highlights a commitment to traditional spectacle making, producing, unusually, its frames in England, whilst bringing together some of the highest-quality materials available in the business. These include special multi-barreled hinges, Zeiss sun lenses for good UV protection, and a handmade soft leather case also produced in the UK.
For the Nine Worthies, the clean elegant shapes from FAN’s existing inaugural collection are created in a rare 90s Italian vintage acetate. Found in the old English factory where the Fan Optics designs are produced, it has a character and artisanal finish all of its own.
And the significance of the 14th century name? The nine special frames in the Edition – three shapes in three colour variants – pay hommage to the nine historical, scriptural and legendary personages of the Middle Ages – the Nine Worthies – representing the ideals of chivalry. They were a common theme in art and literature at the time, and a reminder, to those who saw these representations, of bravery, heroism and high deeds. It’s a great story and link for these frames of substance, and one that might have you leafing through dusty old history books to find out more. For more information on the Nine Worthies by FAN Optics plus superb online sunglasses shopping, visitwww.fanoptics.co.uk
There is a momentum for environmentally friendly frames, and the independent label Rigards sets the pace. The Hong Kong atelier specialises in artisan designs that are made from water buffalo horn on small African farms. I saw the collection when Rigards presented in Paris, and the designs include the above frame with its signature individuality. The frames are creative, with unexpected shapes and decorative accents. www.rigards.comJG
Clodagh and I recently spent a leisurely afternoon discovering and admiring frames from the Lesca collection. The company is a vintage specialist, and we loved seeing the gorgeous designs, in wonderful materials, handcrafted with the finest details. Just right for summer are these creamy satin acetate sunglasses, beautifully moulded into a distinctive shape. The fit is superb, and the high quality lenses provide excellent sun protection. www.lescalunetier.comJG
1st June 2013 RVS by V., the Turkish spectacle label, based in Istanbul, was created by Vidal Erkohen, a collector of vintage eyewear. Handmade to order, the frames are colourful and exotic, both in acetate and metal.
“We give importance to colour, timeless design and quality. We also offer custom colour combinations. You are able to choose your own custom lens colour along with your temple and frame front colour with each order you make. We are also able to custom imprint all frames depending on your request. By letting customers add some of their imagination into each design makes a real difference for them; for us it helps us better understand what they want in the future.
Erkohen became interested in eyewear at an early age. “When I was at high school I found a drawer full of my father’s sunglasses which had not been worn in years. I took them to an optician in Istanbul who turned out to be a real artisan. He restored the frames for me and showed me how to do so in the process. It was then that I fell in love with the art of frame making and restoration. After wearing the frames we restored, people started to ask me for similar styles. I got to a point where there was enough demand to open up my own vintage website, Rare Vintage Sunglasses. Over time we started to supply boutiques, private clients and celebrities worldwide.”
In 2007, Erkohen launched his own collection. “I launched a 25 piece collection at Selima Optique in New York. My goal was to bring back the quality and originalty in design that was put into frames of the past; I believed that was missing at that time due to the lack of independent brands around.”
RVS by V. now has its own small-scale factory in Turkey. “We have 2 floors spread out to 4000sm area; it is more then 50 years old. We have 30 people working there who all still do almost every aspect of our production by hand, working together like a family. We have now also started to produce for other brands that are looking for an alternative other then China or Italy and believe that very soon we will be able to showcase more of our production on a larger scale all over the world. Turkish craftsmanship is truly wonderful although not known as well as it should be. Our goal is to make sure we promote what we can do in the best way possible.
So what’s the focus for 2013? “As always we are focusing on new colours and interesting colour combinations combined with new materials that have never been used before. They are sure to awaken the imaginations of all those who love colour. We have eight new optical frames in the new RVS Love Collection, featuring vintage and new Mazzucchelli acetates in colours that try to reflect the mood people are in when in the state of love. We are bringing a lot of new designs, collaborations and inovations to the table in 2013, along with our new label – POV, Point of View.
Of his influences, Erkohen talks of many but particularly his travel experiences. His former years were spent in New York where he lived with his family (father who is Turkish) and mother (who is Morrocan/Israeli) and brother until he was 11. “We later moved to Istanbul where I got the chance to see and live a very different culture then I was used to until that time. Once we started to live in Istanbul we were traveling in Europe frequently; this gave me a wider perspective that very much affected my sense of style. I always look back fondly at those days and believe that is the reason for my need to create something that reflects classic chic while also bringing something different to the table. Turkey is a country full of history and inspiration that most of the world is still unaware of. Living in Istanbul brings inspiration to my designs and everything I do almost everyday, for this I feel very lucky.”
Erkohen shows great passion for the current growth in individual independent labels in eyewear. “I think this is not only a good time but it isThe Time for independent brands to start creating new things and take over the eyewear world with their creations. The main reason we started RVS was to bring something new and limited to the table and educate consumers on what they were buying when the eyewear world was still ruled by mass production and companies producing pieces by the millions.
Today the situation has changed. Consumers have started to educate themselves on the quality of eyewear they are buying and they have also started to take notice of the smaller brands and look for originality and quality in the product they are purchasing. Is an exciting time for independent brands and we are happy to be a part of this movement.” CN
1st June 2013 Eyewear and fashion fans will truly appreciate this beautiful book – a visual journey through the history of 20th and 21st century eyewear design. Author Simon Murray has one of the largest private eyewear collections in the world – built up over decades of avid collecting around the globe. Co-author Nicky Albrechtsen is a costume designer and the owner of The Vintage Resource in London.
In addition to marvelous frame images, there are also fabulous photos of style icons wearing a variety of designs, plus posters and ads featuring spectacles. What could people be wearing into the 2020s? You’ll find a preview for the next decade and beyond. This stunning book is sure to be a collector’s item, and already has a special place in my library! Fashion Spectacles, Spectacular Fashion by Simon Murray and Nicky Albrechtsen, published by Thames & Hudson Ltd.www.thamesandhudson.comJG
1st June 2013 I have got to know Carmen Cox of Monocle in Rome over the last three years although we have never met! We have similar interests in unique eyewear and we have come across each other many times through social media networks. For this reason, I was curious about the store where she works with owner Gabriele Vergerio.
Monocle is located in the heart of Rome on Via Campo Marzio near several prestigious boutiques and lots of other interesting shops. “We are surrounded by art galleys, handmade perfume stores, and alternative clothing brands, Carmen explains. “This is an area of Rome for Italians and tourists, looking for particular items to show their individuality.”
Monocle was opened on April 1, 2010 by Vergerio after 20 years working in a traditional family optical store, next to the Pantheon. “I created the new shop with the idea of giving people exclusive high quality design – eyewear, but also a full range of accessories including jewellery, hats, and readers,” he explains. “We have a minimal interior, perfumed with incense and completely white and uncluttered.”
“Today we sell only very high quality labels, and no industrial brands at all,” he explains. “Our selection includes styles by Ron Arad, Hoffman, Matsuda, Chrome Hearts, Kuboraum, Rolf Spectacles, Thierry Lasry, vue dc, Cutler & Gross, Brioni, Masunaga, Hapter, Rick Owens, and Lunor…and we are working on our own label to be ready for 2014. We also sell handmade silver jewellery by Manuel Bozzi and the stainless steel ‘butterfly’ pince-nez by Hoet.”
“Recommending glasses is more than choosing a shape for a face so we try to find a design that goes well with a person’s personality and style reflecting the way they want to be perceived,” comments Carmen. ” This summer we are expecting to do well with the round models and oversized frames. We are very excited with the new collection from Kuboraum which has been a great success for us. It is a label we like a lot and it resembles us…. a continuing evolution.” www.monocle.itCN
Monocle Eyeglasses gallery/Eyewear/Accessories, Via di Campo Marzio 13, 00186, Roma, Italy
Toronto based Rapp Eyewear has been a highlight on the Canadian optical scene for over twenty years with their unique shop. Several seasons ago, they started creating their own collection, and Wim is a new release, expertly crafted with acetate and titanium temples. In addition to this feature, is the round shape with its vintage flair, and finely curved nosepiece. The tortoise acetate and crystal combination is a beloved classic. www.rappoptical.comJG
The spectacular natural beauty of Swedish Lapland is the inspiration for E&E glasses. Designers Emilia and Erik are influenced by their homeland – its purity and spaciousness. This is reflected in eyewear with streamlined shapes in transparent colours. This season that includes Tärnaby Northern Light in country green acetate, with metal side inserts. For more information on this newcomer to the eyewear scene, visit www.eoe-glasses.comJG