Join us this month for an accessory adventure – eyewear of course – plus hats, scarves, and sunwear essentials. In Reviews, there are fun, innovative frames for children. Paris is the destination for a little jewel you’ll find in Boutiques, and the location of our multi-talented Designer of the Month. Visit the French seaside for an exhibition that unites fashion and art. Click and stay with Eyestylist for summer and style eyewear expressions.
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28th July 2013 We have covered a few special accessory labels this month, and this one is on my “most wanted” listed for next season. Ali Taylor Mapletoft designs luxurious printed silk scarves with unique patterns and motifs, as well as other elegant accessories including hats and cushions. Dedicated to quality and integrity, Ali puts a twist on her designs that she describes as “wearable luxury with a playful punk twist.” The combination of the natural fibres such as pure silk and cool modern decorations – from abstract to slogans, to line drawings and pug puppy prints – bring a whole new modern feel to the classic scarf as we know it.
For A/W 2013, Ali’s collection includes what you see here, a brilliant world of colour and designs and motifs celebrating rebellion. Trompe l’oeil robes, chains and antique French linens are printed on the silk or wool, combined with contrasting delicate patterns and glamourous female portraits hidden through the bold stripes, deconstructed from the Union Jack flag.
26th July 2013At Eyestylist, we are always excited to find accessories with history. So when I was in Vienna, Sarah Halbeisen of Baumvision Europe kindly introduced me to the fourth generation Viennese family owned boutique – Mühlbauer – a premier player in the worldwide headwear market. Over a century ago – 1903 – Julianna Mühlbauer opened a small millinery shop, which has blossomed into a global enterprise, with designs sought after by an international clientele, including Merly Streep and Brad Pitt.
This shop is paradise for passionate hat lovers and wearers – like me! Age-old know how and traditional crafting techniques of hat making are interpreted in exciting and unusual designs for many occasions. The summer collection was on display when I visited – and it’s brilliant. Included are casual straw sun visors, baseball caps, stunning wide-brimmed designs, and a fun lobster series that is ready to party. Elegant straws are perfect for weddings, summer horse races and boating events. If you love hats, Mühlbauer hutmanufaktur seit 1903 is the place to visit in Vienna, at Seilergasse 10. Good news – you can purchase on line too – at www.muehlbauer.atJG
25th July 2013 It is super to see some new, go-ahead stores emerging right around the world, and with that thought, Eyestylist is pleased to introduce Hello Glasses in Ukraine.
Kyiv (Kiev) is a historic city with many special places to visit. Among them are the city beaches along the impressive Dnieper river, where temperatures can soar….stylish sunnies selected by Hello Glasses are therefore likely to be much sought after, but so too are their curated collections of fashion specs which the owners have selected carefully. They include Mykita, Vidal Erkohen’s RVS by V., Ksubi, Black Eyewear and a range of interesting vintage frames (Ray-Ban, l.a. eyeworks and very nice Anglo American examples), as well as famous mainstream lines such as Retrosuperfuture, Prada and Persol.
Set up in 2008, first with a vintage blog, and then a showroom, the Hello Glasses team opened to the public in June with its first specs store in an interesting location in the Vozdvizhenka district, a newly renovated historic part of Kyiv. The opening included an informal presentation by Mykita designer, Martin Guentert.
Eyestylist asked Sasha Anisin about the store concept: “We are a two person team – myself and Daria Bespalova. We want to give the city of Kyiv an opportunity to purchase high quality optics with a good, well thought-out concept. We are fully involved in the development of the business and the visual content, design, site development and store furniture which have all been created by us.”
23rd July 2013 British based Coppe+Sid have a selection of elegant sunglasses for summer destinations that are beautifully crafted, and available in subtle, stylish colours. Phuket (above) expresses the classic elements in eyewear design that are so important to the two designers – a graceful shape, fine Zeiss lenses, and the marbled effect on superior quality acetate is particularly stunning. www.coppeandsid.com
Oliviero Zanon, who admits to a passion not only for eyewear, but also acetate, designs for the Italian based Res/Rei. With Lucio, (above) two-tone acetate in black and Havana is moulded into a round shape with gentle volume and extended temples. All Res/Rei creations are handmade in Italy, with precise attention to details, fit, and of course, beauty. www.resrei.comJG
19th July 2013 We love accessories at Eyestylist! Eyewear, jewellery, hats and bags are special favourites, particularly when the items are handmade and created with passion. On a visit to Vienna, I was fortunate to meet designer Mona Moore, who creates one-off jewellery – every item is completely handmade and unique. “I’ve always loved beads and jewellery,” explained Mona, when we met surrounded by the artistic atmosphere of The Vienna Opera House and The Albertina Museum, “and I wanted to do only exclusive pieces. I find items everywhere for my designs – in markets, on holiday, in shops. Once in Venice I found some amazing Murano glass, and I placed a special order for handmade glass blown beads. It took six months for them to be made; then I returned to Venice to collect them. It’s important to me that everything is one-of-a-kind.” Above: Chandelier earrings
Coral stones, crystals, mother of pearl and freshwater pearls, lava stone, frosted and iridescent beads, and wood and glass beads are used individually in designs, or beautifully, eclectically mixed together, with stunning results. Earrings, bracelets, gorgeous, swingy necklaces, and hatpins are imaginative, unusual, desirable and exciting to wear. For more information about Mona Moore’s exclusive designs, visit www.monamoore.atJG
16th July 2013 I have recently been wearing a classic style of sunglasses by Sunpocket, the company that specialises in foldable designs. The one I have is Kauai in matt black (above) but it comes in many versions, and there is even a new edition (see below) in a collaboration for concept store Colette in Paris.
The frames are made in Mauritius, and aim for a balance of quality, affordability and overall style. It’s not the first style of its type that I’ve tried (I know the Persol ones), but I’m finding it useful to carry these as my spare pair of shades. The shape of the Kauai works for everyday – it’s a bit like having a pair of jeans that you can wear with anything. And the story is quite intriguing – Sunpocket shades were originally popular with skiers and climbers in the 1970s, and they became a bit of a cult accessory, first in France, but now more widely.
The sunglasses fascinate my children because they fit into a tiny well designed transparent box – they must be quite robust or they might not have survived the constant opening up and packing away again by a six year old.
Created in the 1970s, Sunpocket was relaunched in 2011 by Swedish entrepeneur Jacob Hoglund. Stockists now include Opening Ceremony (stocked in NY and the new store in London open from July 19th), Selfridges, UK, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong and Colette, Paris. CN
12th July 2013 Beautiful eyewear, gorgeous polo ponies and a winning Belgian team were among the highlights at the Dutch Open Polo event, held in the Dutch countryside at the picturesque Polo Club Vreeland. As co-sponsor of the event, Leisure Society designer Shane Baum was present to see the Belgium team win the coveted trophy, plus the luxurious, elegant sunglasses – Highgate – from the LS collection.
The stunning frame in gold and tortoiseshell with enamel detailing, features lenses protected with Diamond Cast anti-scratch coating. With these fabulous frames, the Belgium team is bound to win even more polo matches! JG
9th July 2013Glasses express who we are, and designer Sven Götti believes that we should wear frames that say something about ourselves. Götti’s new campaign spotlights designs that are individual and discerning – never overpowering – just beautifully crafted eyewear in elegant, quality materials. Fanny (above) encapsulates classic elements with its beautiful shape in tortoiseshell, gold and black. The voluminous lenses and the curved double bridge add to the allure.
Götti sunglasses feature the Spin & Stow system that is brilliant, as the frames fold flat and safely, and easily tuck into your pocket or bag.
Acetates feature in this collection too – and Filipa is particularly charming in sea-tone turquoise – perfect for summer. The images in the Götti campaign were staged by award-winning photographer Loan Nguyen, who has exhibited her work in Paris, Berlin, Los Angeles and the Winterthur Photo Museum in Switzerland. www.gotti.chJG
4th July 2013 If there is one thing to buy this summer it’s a proper, smart, beautifully made hat. These ones at SuperDuper Hats are covetable, cute – and made with love by hand. The label won a prestigious Who is On Next award? at Pitti Uomo last month, and they have recently collaborated with Lotho, the Parisian eyewear label, with a series called “Diamond Point” featuring hats and pince-nez (S/S 2013 collection). (Above: Panama, The Monk, 265 euros).
The reworked pince-nez designs are attached to the hats by an elegant gold chain, and when not worn, sit on the brim, making a decorative statement. Simple, quirky and ever so wearable. Buy SuperDuper Hats online at www.superduperhats.comwww.lotho.frCN
Zoobug always creates the most stylish sunnies for children. Sunny in Amber is certain to appeal to young fashionistas with its voluminous shape and a hint of 1960’s retro flair. Children’s vulnerable eyes are safely protected with polarized brown tinted lenses that coordinate smartly with the lovely amber acetate. Cool, sophisticated and a must-have for 6-12 year olds. www.zoobug.comJG
This joyful, sea-inspired colour says summer! Oliver Goldsmith Mini Icons is a delightful selection of children’s eyewear; made with all the splendid characteristics you find in the adult collection….in fact, some designs are exact replicas of iconic OG frames. Manhattan Aqua Fresh in silky-smooth acetate boasts retro styling, and the contrasting white sides are finely etched in thin stripes. For a further peek at this cool collection of children’s sunglasses, go to www.olivergoldsmith.com – or visit the charming vintage friendly Oliver Goldsmith Boutique in Notting Hill – 15 All Saints Road, London W11 1HA www.olivergoldsmith.comJG
This is a fun frame in crystal acetate with confetti sparkles that enliven the perky round shape. The bright pink is contrasted with a darker tone on the metal temple, and the rubber ends provide a comfortable fit, so that glasses stay in place on active little faces. There are other delicious colours too – blue marine, rich red and black. This is just one example of Lafont’s diverse collection of children’s eyewear. www.lafont.comJG
This adorable cat eye is from Red Optical in The Netherlands. They specialise in children’s eyewear, and the designs have great appeal – because Red Optical knows that kids follow fashion trends too! Los Angeles allows youngsters to feel very grown up, with the exaggerated cat eye design in classic tortoise Mazzuchelli acetate. The beautiful shaping and fine quality are crafts that Red Optical ensures feature in all their designs. www.redoptical.comJG
Teenagers will enjoy wearing frames from Vanni Tribe – the look is uncluttered and discreet, and keeps pace with fashion trends. The metal collection features rims that are lightly sheathed in rubber, and the colours are luscious – contrasting twin tones or tone-on-tone, in royal blue, burgundy (shown above) and aubergine. For active teenagers, Nico Design uses strengthened metal, so shock resistance is maximised.
1st July 2013 Christian Dior’s family home in the French seaside town of Granville, was an inspiration for his work throughout his life. Villa “Les Rhumbs” now the Christian Dior Museum, presents an intriguing exhibition this summer that links Impression art with Dior’s creations. The enchanting surroundings of “Les Rhumbs” with its garden overlooking the sea, echoes the “alfresco” – open-air ideal – of Impressionist artists that notably influenced Dior’s fashion creations. Above: Rose Pompon, silk chiffon dress printed with roses. Dior Haute Couture collection, spring-summer, S/S 1952, Sineuse line. Copyright: Laziz Hamani
There is an exceptional array of loans from prominent museums, including Musée d’Orsay, Musée Galliera, Musée Marmottan-Monet and Musée des Arts Décoratifs. In addition, there are splendid items from private Dior collectors. The exhibition establishes a dialogue between more than 70 dresses, plus a selection of masterpieces from Impressionist painters themselves, ranging from Monet to Degas, Renoir to Berthe Morisot. In conjunction with the exhibition, Rizzoli has published Impressions Dior by Florence Müller, fashion historian and curator of the exhibition. Impressions Dior continues through 22nd September 2013. www.musee-dior-granville.comJG
1st July 2013 The Kuboraum Limited Edition gold burnt masks are something of a spectacle. They combine a futuristic identity with references to the ancient traditions of mask making and they are made with painstaking care and attention to minute detail and special handcrafting techniques. Designed in Berlin and made in Italy, Ltd Burnt is based on an extraordinary and still patent pending handcrafting technique. Every mask is burnt by hand in a complicated process that makes each design unique. During the process, 24 carat gold accessories, made by a Venetian artisan, are inserted onto the frame itself. The lenses are treated with 18 carat gold for the ultimate luxury look.
Sergio Eusebi of Kuboraum told Eyestylist: “With our eyewear, we would like to give people the opportunity to feel unique and special, with a timeless taste; to be able to look in the mirror and have a feeling of evolution, authenticity, and amazement. We see eyewear as sculpture, attracting a strong relationship from which it would be difficult to return. Our Ltd Gold Burnt is without doubt the maximum expression of the power of the Kuboraum mask, a power that is ready to be revealed on real faces.”
Kuboraum was created in February 2012 by Livio Graziottin, designer/artist, Sergio Eusebi, anthropologist/marketing director and Antonio Pincin, production engineer. The Gold Edition has been made exclusively for show at Isetan Tokyo and Monocle Rome, stores that both have a special relationship with the Berlin label. Kuboraum will open a new store and showroom in Berlin during Berlin Fashion Week on 4th July 2013. Kopenicker Strasse 96, D-10179, Berlin, Germany. In the UK, Kuboraum can be found at selected stockists including Viren Jani (www.virenjani.com) and Layers (www.layerslondon.com).
1st July 2013Caroline Abram escorts me into her wonderfully spacious premises, complete with a terrace, a loft and a proper kitchen. It’s a lovely, airy environment in which to design and work, a hub of creativity for Abram’s many talents, and her expanding international business. She has an intriguing eyewear history- her parents are involved optics – her father is an eye surgeon, and her mother Annette was the guiding light behind les créateurs d’Opta, the Paris boutique, which was among the first to promote independent eyewear designers. Her creative daughter launched Filao eighteen years ago – a collection of eyewear accessories made in Africa. Abram speaks fondly of the women who make her designs. “Yes, I have my Filao ladies in Senegal,” says Abram, “these women make the accessories by hand – beaded and glass chains and cases, and other items. I spent my childhood in Senegal, and living there helped me so much with my work, because the women there are always mixing colours – yellow, blue red – anything they put together works. They have a real sense of colour, and they know what they are doing.
“In 2008 I made my first frames, and the real question is – ‘why didn’t I do it sooner’?” I’d had it in my mind for a long time, but I wanted to create my own identity first, away from everything I saw in the stores. And then I decided to start my cat eye project – which people were not wearing at that time.” The concept developed in parallel with Abram’s life in Africa, and the considerable time she spends in southern Florida. “Florida is my ‘country home’ – the American version,” she says with a laugh, “and my mother and I are crazy about thrift shops – it’s a real hobby. There are many of them in Florida, with items from the 50’s, 60’s, and 70’s. We are buying, buying and buying. I’m in this time dimension – I’ve always been a matching colour lady, and friends kid me about that because I dress differently. I mix Miami and the colours of Senegal, far from the European way of life. My frame collection had to be a colourful cat eye – it was meant to be! I have variations on the cat eye – large and small. I like to use clear colours and bi-colour, happy frames, fresh and alive. I think the collection is a reflection of me – cat eye with a sense of humour.”
Caroline loves all accessories. “With my designs, I want an accessory environment. I want people to understand that frames are a real accessory. That is why the name Filao will soon disappear, and the new brand name is Caroline Abram Eyewear and Fashion Accessories. My next plan is to further the men’s collection.” The vivacious designer describes her concept of the woman who wears Caroline Abram frames. “The complexity of a woman is always in my mind. She wants everything, and then she doesn’t want anything. In French we call it ‘contraire’ (contrary). She is independent and funny in everything that she does – perhaps a bit stubborn too. The designs include all the characteristics of women, with no age barrier. She is happy, and my frames are always wearable, and she doesn’t feel out of place. Freshness and happy – that’s important for me. People want personality without exaggeration.” www.carolineabram.comJG
1st July 2013When Clodagh and I were on our Parisian Discovery Tour, we popped into a charming optical boutique – Segoola – that was opened last year by Alexia Cohen. She features exciting international independent eyewear designers including Thierry Lasry, Götti Switzerland, Illesteva, Isson, Linda Farrow Luxe, Lunettes Kollektion, Graz, Emmanuelle Khanh, John Dalia and Be Kind from Italy. The chic little boutique, located on rue Turenne in the Haut Marais, features oak panelling, and is decorated with lovely mirrors. Vintage fans will love the selection of retro frames, and will find something unusual among the designs that Cohen has in the boutique. If in Paris, be sure to include a visit to Segoola for optical treasures. www.segoola.fr JG