roar in like a lion for March, and COLOUR is keynote from subtle to strong, see our designer eyewear REVIEWS. Utrecht in The Netherlands is your destination for an elegant boutique, and our DESIGNER OF THE MONTH is a bonafide Parisian. Take a voyage down fashion’s memory lane with a beautiful exhibition in CITY GUIDES. Eyestylist.com updates regularly in all sections throughout the month, so for the latest accessories and style statements, click and stay with Eyestylist.
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28th March 2014Tortoiseshell has been a treasured material since ancient times, as people loved the splendid markings and its organic warmth. In eyewear, the use of tortoiseshell was first noted about 1675. However, real tortoiseshell has been banned since the 1970’s to protect turtles – an endangered species – and fragile eco systems. Fortunately, technology has paved the way for lovely tortoiseshell adaptations made from superior quality acetate.
Tortoiseshell and its timeless beauty contributed to the success of the costumes for The Great Gatsby. Catherine Martin won an Oscar for Best Costume Design this year. Christian Roth, who understands the lure and naturalness of beautiful classic materials and fine design, created the distinctive sunglasses featured in the film. Elizabeth Debicki (above) portrays 1920’s chic with her sleek turban and voluminously proportioned Christian Roth Tortoiseshell sunglasses. www.christian-roth.com
Claire Goldsmith and Ainjali Fine at Finest Seven both enthusiastically embrace modern day tortoiseshell interpretations. Robust proportions enhance Begbie by Claire Goldsmith in glossy Electric Tortoiseshell acetate, with expertly beveled temples.
Soft Tortoiseshell acetate with subtle shading and a keyhole bridge highlight Zero05 by Finest Seven. With elegance and superb crafting, Tortoiseshell possesses beauty and enduring style.JG
Chocolate by ‘SAID dal 1923’, Prosecco by Nino Franco and sunglasses by Mondelliani….
26th March 2014Rome’s handmade sunglasses label Mondelliani brought some much needed Spring ‘pizazz‘ to a cold rainy evening in London’s West End this evening. The brand held its launch event at ‘SAID dal 1923’, a branch of the Roman chocolatier that opened in the UK a few months ago. With its Mediterranean colours and spirited 1960s and 1970s character, the Eolie collection by Mondelliani was showcased with brightly coloured chocolate bars, and alongside a new delicate capsule collection, DOC – inspired by three iconic wine glass silhouettes.
Mondelliani sunglasses are now available at leading opticians and fashion boutiques in London including Wolf & Badger and Kirsten Goss. New optical stockists soon to be announced on Eyestylist.com. For worldwide stockists and further information visit www.mondelliani.itCN
25th March 2014United Nude’s collaboration (AW14) with Iris Van Herpen, the avant-garde fashion designer, is a super chic display of innovation in shoe design. First shown on the catwalk in Paris this month, the futuristic Biopiracy Boot and the Biopiracy peep toe ankle Bootie feature staggeringly high 7 inch platform cantilevered heels which extend the legs with an exciting silhouette.
United Nude was launched by architect Rem D Koolhaas and seventh generation shoemaker Galahad Clark in 2003. Turning dreams into reality, their first shoe ‘the Möbius’ was developed with the guidance of the great Sergio Rossi and technical shoemaker Maurizio Martignago in Italy. Ever since, United Nude has become an iconic brand at the intersection of fashion and design, creating products that are about clear concepts, elegance and innovation. While available in over 50 countries worldwide, United Nude now has seven flagship stores in Amsterdam, London, New York, Vienna, Tel Aviv, Seoul and Tokyo. CN
21st March 2014A charming, fashion forward design, Sunny – by award winning Zoobug – is now available in a catwalk inspired python print finish. The frame is one that children will love to wear with its smart round shape and distinct details. Eye surgeon Dr. Julie Le created Zoobug; so she understands the vulnerability of children’s eyes, and the need to protect them. High quality polarised lenses ensure safety as well as style for young wearers.
In two graceful colours – pale blue and pale pink – Zoobug’s Sunny possesses ultimate sunglass savvy for today’s fashion conscious young girls, who want to be au courant with trends. www.zoobug.com JG
18th March 2014We’ve seen some beautiful eyewear and accessories this spring in gorgeous grey variations. Grey is a lovely alternative to black and looks fresh and elegant. Jérémy Tarian has included a stunning, strong style – Zurich – in his sunglass collection in tonal greys that work harmoniously on the skin, and with a variety of colours in one’s wardrobe. www.jeremytarian.com
Silvery sparkle for chic footwear is highlighted at Zoe Lee, whose beautiful shoes and boots are luxuriously crafted and fit like a dream. Silver leather and mesh unite in this streamlined boot – a super asset for spring fashions. Zoe’s innovative footwear can be found in her Paris boutique and at www.zoelee.co.uk
Handcrafted in England by Algha Works, Savile Row presents Sussex – an acetate optical frame with an unusual textural effect that resembles wood. The frame shape combines a hint of vintage with modern overtones; it’s lightweight and so comfortable to wear. www.algha.com
Rich slate grey acetate is the theme at Finest Seven in style Zero04 – an authentic retro shape accented with a metal trim. Clodagh wears these frames which she describes as “gorgeous and very unique.” www.finesteven.comJG
14th March 2014Akris designs are timeless treasures. I discovered these beautiful clothes years ago in London, and have been a fan ever since. The Swiss fashion house, located in picturesque St. Gallen, is acclaimed for its sleek, streamlined glamour that is dedicated to women who value and appreciate pure elegance and loving craftsmanship – clients include Princess Charlene of Monaco.
To celebrate the Akris participation in Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, and the 50th anniversary of Austrian eyewear company Silhouette, both brands were featured on the catwalk together. Albert Kriemler’s luxurious, yet low-key creations in superb fabrics, complemented the lightweight, modern Silhouette eyewear. “My fashion is about lightness and naturalness that links body consciousness and effortless functionality,” says Akris Creative Director Kriemler.
Both Silhouette and Akris adhere to a design philosophy that is strongly expressive, and chicly minimal. The Silnouette special edition aviators were handcrafted in Austria. www.akris.ch www.silhouette.com JG
11th March 2014 Fabric has a pretty, elegant effect in acetate eyewear. Berlin label Framers are the latest designers to explore that appeal in a frame collection that coordinates with a unique silk scarf created by designer Sarah Settgast – pictured above, Sarah holds her multi-coloured scarf design with rose “tattoo” motif. The first Silk Eyewear Collection to be launched at Framers, the two coordinating accessories – scarf and frame – are available to purchase individually or as a set. Each pair of the multi-coloured silk-lined glasses features a different section of the silk material making each one completely unique.
“A Celebration of British design, craftsmanship, engineering and innovation
7th March 2014 A new exhibition at Linley in Pimlico, London (open until 14th March), brings together some of Britain’s exceptional luxury labels and companies, focusing on craftsmanship, skill and innovative design. From disciplines as diverse as fashion, fishing, shooting, furniture and construction, the exhibition beautifully portrays examples of the highest quality traditional British design alongside contemporary labels such as BVS Bespoke, producers of fine accessories and handmade bags. Highlights also include exquisite examples of furniture by Linley – www.davidlinley.com, hats by Lock and Co. – www.lockhatters.co.uk –, the first hatters to design the iconic Bowler, and eyewear by the historic spectaclemakers – who made frames for Sir Winston Churchill and Napoleon Bonaparte – C.W. Dixey (pictured above). www.cwdixeyandson.com
There is also a rare chance to get close to some of the most exciting designs from iconic automobile and motorbike manufacters such as McClaren and Gladstone Motorcycles.
Curated by David Linley and Scott Simpson, the exhibition is taking place at Linley Belgravia Showroom, 60 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8LPwww.davidlinley.comImages (top, and centre) provided by www.davidlinley.com
7th March 2014Milan is a chic cosmopolitan metropolis, and Eyestylist absorbed the upbeat stylish atmosphere at the eyewear event. The internationalism of eyewear is exciting, and here we present several of our favourite finds in Milan.
Music inspires the Shadows collection that Tim Van Steenbergen created for theo in Belgium. In his younger days, Van Steenbergen loved big guitar sounds, and Shadows features voluminous, bold frames in neutral, “shadowy” colours of white, grey, black and dark blue. The shapes of the sunglasses are offbeat, and robust with distinction. Shadow 5 (above) emphasizes volume and intensity. An imaginative accent is the detail in the ear tip that looks like a guitar pick. A superb Limited Edition! www.theo.be
Luca Gnecchi Ruscone at LGR in Rome captures the artful beauty of wisteria – the cascading flower that grows in clusters – in Victoria. Gracefully sculpted and handmade by Italian artisans, the lifted brow brings additional glamour to the rich colour and shape of the sunglasses. Colour co-ordinated photochromic lenses harmonize with the luxurious design. www.lgr-sunglasses.com
Green and its numerous interpretations is an important colour trend in eyewear. Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland is right on target with a men’s frame in chic olive green acetate. The expressive shape is subtle, yet strong. It’s a great design for men who prefer classics, but also desire style and flair. www.gotti.ch
The Tangram designs by Vanni are inspired by Tangram, an old Chinese puzzle made up of a square divided into several different geometrical shapes, each in one colour. The art of the game lies in creating as many complete figures as possible, using combinations of these parts. Vanni has transformed this puzzle into frames of stylish wisdom, made from custom-made Mazzucchelli slab acetate, and the Tangram texture is all cubes splint into irregular pyramids. This is alternated against a deep crystalline background, which may be see-through or solid. An inventive concept that generates a kaleidoscope of reflected colour. www.vanniocchiali.comJG
ic! berlin and Liechtenstein – Style and Song in Milan
5th March 2014Milan is the fashionable setting for clothing and accessories, and this season’s show for eyewear was enhanced with the presence of German crooner Friedrich Liechtenstein, who lives in the ic! berlin building, and is the Internet sensation performing in ads for Edeka – the German supermarket – with the the song Supergeil. He has achieved superstar status with his natural musical and acting ability. Crowds gathered at ic! berlin to listen to the melodious voice of Liechtenstein, wearing über-smart ic! berlin frames with mirror lenses – U1 Kotti. Spectators were ready to start dancing to Liechtenstein’s velvety tones!
ic! berlin designer and CEO Ralph Anderl joined in the spirited songfest looking cool and chic in his shiny black shades – Rapo 3 – with exclusive frozen mirrored lenses.
Coming Into Fashion with Condé Nast at Palais Galliera
1st March 2014The rich archives of Condé Nast New York, Paris, Milan and London brings together in this exhibition 150 mostly original prints from leading fashion photographers from 1918 through to the present day. Images from Henry Clarke, Cecil Beaton and Deborah Turbeville, Norman Parkinson, Horst P Horst, the elegant photos of John Rawlings, who had 66 VOGUE covers, plus Herb Ritts and Irving Penn are among the photographers included.
Viewing the photos is a pleasure, as they are well placed to appreciate the creativity, originality and dreamy contexts of the images. Although fashion photography hovers between realism and fiction, the images in Condé Nast publications generally veer towards dreams. In fact, Irving Penn, a Vogue photographerfrom 1943 to 2004 said: “I always felt we were selling dreams, not clothes.”
The photos are accompanied by fifteen haute couture items from the collections of the Palais Galliera. Two reading rooms provide access to over fifty magazines, plus there are contemporary films projected on a large screen, that provide a glimpse of the possible future of fashion photography. The exhibition continues through 25th May 2014. www.palaisgalliera.paris.frJG
Photos: All images copyright Condé Nast. Top Image: Edward Steinchen, American Vogue, December 1923
1st March 2014 Etienne Frederiks and Jolana Reinink of Hall of Frame in Holland share with Eyestylist the history of their boutique.
“We opened the shop in 2008,” says Frederiks, “and Jolanda and I (above photo) wanted to start a little boutique where we could sell things we liked ourselves. In Utrecht, in the middle of the country, there was no such place. We were fantasising about this over a coffee, when we saw a broker hanging up a “For Rent” sign in this beautiful location. Without a plan, we decided to start at that very moment, and agreed with the agent to rent the place. We only wanted to sell what we liked ourselves, and the best brands for us at the moment are Garrett Leight and Suzy Glam. We also love other brands with a strong identity like Mykita, Moscot and Lunettes Kollektion. In addition to this, our collection of vintage frames is getting better and bigger.
“For the interior, we searched ourselves for some unique furniture. We wanted an interior that looks exclusive – but accessible. More a fashion store than an optical shop. We are always the first in the Netherlands showing the newest Moscot collection and often we are the only shop in the Netherlands with some limited editions. And of course, we stock the entire Suzy Glam collection. (Etienne’s partner is Suzy Glam designer Susanne Klemm).
“Retro is still the big thing, but a lot of these styles can be bought now at internet shops or chains. So we are looking for new shapes – metal and acetate combinations, good fittings for different faces, and real good design. For us, business is good, but it’s a pity most opticians don’t choose a specific direction – independent shops suit independent labels.” www.hallofframe.euJG
1st March 2014 Scarves are into a new era. Several independent designers are giving them a new stylish lease of life with a fresh take on how to wear them to make a modern style statement. British fashion designer Alexia Parmigiani creates a range of beautiful scarves, ponchos and kaftans in luxurious fabrics with brightly coloured exotic prints. For Spring/Summer, find florals and jungle motifs, designed into brightly coloured wonderland fabrics. Alexia is always true to her mantra, proposing, in each feminine design a creation that is “more than a scarf”. Her fabrics are sensual and delicate – silk satin, silk georgette and cotton voile and the designs and colour schemes will sweep you away to dream places…Woodstock, the Riviera, Malibu and Palm Springs.
Eyestylist first met the west-London based designer Alexia Parmigiani at London’s popular fashion event Scoop – www.scoop-international.com. Her Spring/Summer look book pairs Alexia’s exciting designs with eyewear by Moo Piyasombatkul. The new collection by Alexia launches this week at Tranoi, Paris (Carrousel Du Louvre, Gabriel Delorme stand M02).
1st March 2014His tall, lithe figure is silhouetted against Parisian landmark buildings – Eglise Saint Germain des Près, and Aux Deux Magots – the latter the favourite café of Jean-Paul Satre, Simone de Beauvoir and other literary luminaries. In his own metier, Jérémy is an eyewear designer of international acclaim. Paris is an inspriation for Tarian – The Left Bank being a favourite and familiar haunt, while The Marais is another source of energy and reference. Streets, buildings, and history all inspire his work. But so do travel, people, museums, nature, architecture – in fact – life itself.
We settle comfortably at Deux Magots, and over delicious coffee, Jérémy relates his eyewear odyssey. “I designed my first fame for myself, as ‘revenge’ because I needed to wear glasses from the age of eight.” However, his “revenge” evolved into a continuing unbridled passion for eyewear. He worked at ic! berlin for two years – where he won his first Silmo d’Or – before setting up his own business three years ago. In 2012 he captured his second Silmo d’Or – the eyewear equivalent of a Bafta or Oscar trophy – for his sunglass design Saintonge. Tarian’s sunglasses and optical frames can now be found in over 200 boutiques worldwide.
How does his design process work? “When I design, I really need to concentrate only on design, and I find this more and more necessary. I just cannot say ‘oh well, I’ll take an hour and design'”, explains Tarian. He also finds his master classes in eyewear design at HEAD (Geneva University of Art and Design/Switzerland) have a reflection in his work. “I find that working with the students opens me to new ideas. Glasses are not just a product, but also a personality on the face. I find that talking with the students, and listening to their stories, who are from all over the world, comes into my thinking.
Tarian draws each line, curve and detail of a frame design, and he says: “My designs now are very different from when I began five years ago. I focus more on comfort, and I can see how just one millimetre can change everything. Harmony is important – how the shape will fit on the face. I love working in acetate and metal, and there are so many things to explore with these two materials. For the collection in the autumn, we are experimenting with new textures, using these two elements.” The Tarian Collection is also eco-friendly, and only the finest quality acetate is used in his designs.
“For independent designers, it’s so important to keep independent in terms of product, and to explain the brand philosophy,” says Tarian. His original, unique and desirable frames contribute to making eyewear such an exciting accessory with creative design and style. www.jeremytarian.com JG