Luxurious optical frames, innovative sunglasses and stylish accessories keynote this month’s edition of Eyestylist. International designers, boutiques and gorgeous frames are to be discovered in all our sections – so click and find eyewear and accessory style excitement at your fingertips. If you have not already done so, be sure to sign up for Eyestylist Exclusives – our monthly newsletter highlighting new trends and collections.
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29th August 2014 European influences from Italy, Switzerland and France are among the short-listed entires for the Hall of Frames/Eyestylist Newcomer Awards. Oliviero Zanon at Res/Rei in Italy expresses artisan expertise and heritage in his beautiful collection of optical and sunglass designs. Zanon likes to explore unique eyewear possibilities, and an excellent example is Caravaggio (above) in acetate and metal, handcrafted with distinction. www.resrei.com
As a trained carpenter Dominik Gasser brings a different dimension to his frame designs. Influenced by his beautiful Swiss surroundings, his love of nature, fishing and craftsmanship, Gasser personally creates handmade natural wood frames in his atelier high in the mountains.
Gouv/Au frames are made in the oldest active eyewear company in France, founded in 1878. The subtly styled frames are classics with a contemporary twist. Quiet elegance is reflected in style 101, a perfect round shape in shiny Tokyo tortoiseshell lacquer with satin gold.www.gouvau.com. The winners of the 2014 Hall of Frames/Eyestylist Newcomer Award will be announced at Stuttgart Hall of Frames in October. www.hallofframes.chJG
26th August 2014 The Paris eyewear fashion fair Silmo – www.silmoparis.com – fast approaches and Eyestylist looks forward to a jam-packed four day event which we will report on live from France. Already, we have an eye on what’s about to headline: the colours, shapes and influences, as well as the noteworthy newcomers from different parts of the globe.
Eyewear designers draw on the versatility of colour in modern materials. Jono Hennessy from Australia launches a multi-coloured collection which includes the Limited Edition 8330, an oversized woman’s design, fashionable, comfortable, with a retro silhouette, in tones elevated by the smooth high-quality acetate; Eyestylist has an eye on the chambray denim, but you can also find fresh gelato pastel and a luxurious modern tortoise. www.jonohennessy.com
French designer Jeremy Tarian shows new optical and sunglasses collections at the fair next month. The designer has a gift for eyewear with beautiful structure and elegant attitude: maxi sunglass shapes in bold acetate explore 50s design traits with smart metallic inserts. Crafted in the Jura, each design is exquisitely finished; striated horizontal patterns, two-toned split fronts, and intriguing versions of traditional and coloured tortoise create new drama for the eyes. www.jeremytarian.com
Exhibiting for the first time at Silmo, Jean Philipp Joly proposes inventive shapes with trend-led associations of colour – produced in bold cuts of Mazzucchelli acetate. Joly is a proponent of handmade eyewear, and makes his own prototypes with an old machine from Oyonnax, France, before his designs are created in a family factory for production in Italy. http://www.jeanphilippejoly.com Silmo takes place on 26th to 29th September 2014 at Paris Villepinte. For exhibitor/visitor information: www.silmoparis.comCN
20th August 2014 Israeli design duo Maya Sapir and Dafna Lustig are wowing fashion aware women with their new “Leopard Collection” of unique sunglasses. Mays is an optician with a keen instinct on what customers desire; Dafna is a model, TV and radio broadcaster for fashion and culture. Corso Como in Milan quickly snapped up their first collaboration, and as of 1st September, the designs will also be available in Austria, Switzerland and Germany. The frames are sold under the label Hamashkifa x Dafnalu. Hamishkifa is a Hebrew word that has two meanings – either “the observer” or “a person that puts glasses on your face.” In the above photo, Dafna, left, wears Ronili and Maya sports Lali – both designs from The Leopard Collection, handmade in Mazzucchelli acetate. www.hamashkifa.com
Italian artisan crafting is evident with inventive shapes in eyewear and accessories by Pollipò in Rome. The sunglasses embrace a fresh new mood in handmade acetate (style P477) with a verdigris honeycomb finish. A chic jewel clutch in Tuscan leather with an ostrich pattern has an Arizona turquoise gemstone nestled on a mother-of-pearl disc. Pollipò also designs jewellery, and Italian dash meets America’s wild west in a rhodium-plated sterling silver bracelet with Arizona turquoise gemstones. www.pollipocchiali.itJG
19th August 2014 A marvelous vintage steam engine is not a usual sight on Boulevard Saint Germain – but certainly an intriguing one! The gleaming green engine that captures the attention of passers by and motorists is part of a superb exhibition – Il Ètait Un Fois L’Orient Express. The trains are displayed in the outdoor space at L’Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris.
Carriage interiors can be visited, and a nostalgic look at train travel during The Golden Age reflects the amazing grandeur, service, elegance and pampering passengers enjoyed in another era. The “wagon-lits” as they are called in French, are beautifully appointed with fine wood panelling, and carved René Lalique glass insets. Gourmet dining is further enhanced with lovely cutlery and china.
Inside L’Institut du Monde Arabe, visitors can trace the long and fascinating history of The Orient Express – the inaugural voyage was in 1883 between Paris and Constantinople – with letters, photos, film clips and other memorabilia. The allure, mystery, romance and luxury of The Orient Express is indicative of a different way of life and living…and yet can still be enjoyed today! More information at www.imarabe.orgwww.orient-express.euJG
15th August 2014 Lindberg, the elegant Danish label, features sleek, modern designs in luxurious materials. The Lindberg Strip 9700 Collection offers a unique blending of technology and style. Model 9703 (above) has a distinctive, richly textured front and unique temple details. The lenses are encircled by a special acetate inner rim – the overall effect – stunning!
The Lindberg kid/teen collection is especially designed to meet the increasingly fashion conscious preferences of children and teenagers. Durability, flexibility, comfort and lightness are perfect for active children and teenagers. The frames are crafted in nickel-free and hypoallergenic materials – perfect for young, sensitive skins. Featured above: left, style 1502 and right 9553. www.lindberg.comJG
12th August 2014 A recent revelation about Her Majesty The Queen Mother came to light when it was discovered that she had a collection of eyewear that spread across an entire century. The Queen Mother wore spectacles, but rarely in public. She died in 2002, and the administrator of her household approached the Royal Optician, Roger Pope, with a blue box of the Queen Mother’s spectacles and sunglasses. They had been carefully preserved, even though many were decades old, and others had broken components. Among the frames was a design by the German company Marwitz, which the Queen Mother ordered during the 1990’s – she liked the frame so much, that she had the same design made in both optical and sun spectacles.
Eyestylist asked designer Adrian Marwitz, heir to the Marwitz family eyewear history, if he knew the Queen Mother wore his frames.”This is a wonderful surprise,” said Adrian, “and I am very proud of my grandfather because he had a fan in England – and it was The Queen Mother! I am a fan of Her Majesty Queen Elisabeth II. I really think she is a trendsetter. It would be wonderful if she would find my designs and wear third generation Marwitz frames. We have some nice shops in London that carry Adrian Marwitz, so perhaps one day the Royal Family will wear Marwitz frames again!”
The Queen Mother’s eyewear collection starts about 1919, and continues through to the late 1990’s. With the kind permission of HM The Queen, the frames were donated to The British Optical Association Museum. Neil Handley, curator at the Museum said: “We were delighted that the Queen consented to the donation of these items. They represent one individual’s full lifetime of spectacle wearing, spanning an entire century.” www.adrianmarwitz.comwww.college-optometrists.org/museumJG
8th August 2014Luxurious simplicity that is classic and modern characterises the elegant Cabriolet Stud. Created by Bieke Hoet at Cabrio Belgium, the temples are polyurethane with synthetic leather, attached to the lens with a metal stud. Two neutral, stylish colours are available – brown/beige and khaki green (above) – that transform your sunglasses into a contemporary accessory. The Cabriolet Stud demonstrates both flair and elegance. www.cabrio.hoet.eu / www.hoet.euJG
11th August 2014 GRAY M.C.A leading specialists in Fashion Illustration are holding a selling exhibition of original fashion illustrations from Post War 1940s through to the 1970s from Thursday 11th – Tuesday 16th September 2014 at Gallery 8, 8 Duke Street, St James’s, London. Coinciding with London Fashion Week SS15, the exhibition will include more than 40 original works by some of the leading illustrators of the time from Britain, Europe and America including René Bouché, René Gruau & Carl ‘Eric’ Erickson for publications including British & American Vogue, Harpers & Queen, The Sunday Times, Frau im Spiegel (Germany) & Jardin des Modes (France) as well as advertising work for L’Oreal and other famous names in Haute Couture such as Nina Ricci.
A selection of original designs by designers will be featured including Dior, Barbara Hulanicki of BIBA & Zandra Rhodes. Prices from £300 – £10,000. As Connie Gray of Gray M.C.A explained: “For too long fashion illustrators and their illustrations have been seen as a secondary art form, no matter how beautifully executed the image. More often than not, fashion illustrators were more widely known for their advertising work than they were for their work as highly skilled fashion illustrators. Though their style was familiar to the reader & their names published internationally alongside their illustrations, they have never been recognized as true artists. It was almost a secret world in which only those working in the industry knew and admired each other.”
Exhibition dates: Thursday 11 September to Tuesday 16 September 2014Gallery 8, 8 Duke Street St James’s, London, SW1Y 6BN – www.graymca.co.ukImage caption: illustration above by American illustrator Tod Draz (1917-2002). CN
Advice from an expert / tips on finding the eyewear of your dreams
5th August 2014Eyestylist is seeing a rise in requests from readers to help find or suggest specialist frames that suit different faces, complexions and personal desires. In response, we are creating a series with expert advice and frame suggestions.
In the first of the series, Gwendoline Radley, a dispensing optician and eyewear stylist at Adam Simmonds / Primrose Hill Optometrists (www.adamsimmonds.co.uk), talks about finding styles for a round female face on the basis of a request we received from a German lady in Munich. Gwendoline has particular experience of working with independent collections and the finest creative frames and sunglasses.
“I generally don’t subscribe to the ‘face shape’ rule,” explains Radley. “Yes, it has its basic merits and can provide a good foundation to work from, but there are so many wonderful shapes out there it seems a little archaic now to categorise them down. So many subtle enhancements to a shape can really make a style stand out, so the wearer looks and feels fantastic.”
Gwendoline suggests these steps: “This particular customer who wrote to Eyestylist has a round face, big eyes and a smallish bridge. She was wanting to change her look and feel more business-like but also more feminine and sexy in specs.
I would always suggest a wearer try things they wouldn’t consider normally, and that way they are more likely to end up falling in love. I get so excited when I hear, ‘I wouldn’t have picked this up but I really like it!’ or ‘I had never thought about this colour!” Choosing eyewear is ultimately about inspiring confidence, and as we all know, confidence affects deportment and well being!”
Gwendoline suggested 3 women’s shapes that would be well suited to many round or oval faces; colours would be dependent on the individual, hair colouring, complexion, fashion tastes and so on. The more colours that you try on, the more you will get a feel for what looks good, what you like best and what will work as a part of your wardrobe.
1/ A soft cat eye – such as Joanne 1 by Face à Face – www.faceaface-paris.com – this has a delicate feminine look and it’s definitely eye-catching; a harsh flat-top style for this face shape should be avoided. 2/ An 80s design with a slightly dropped bridge such as Keren by L.G.R. (top) www.lgr-sunglasses.com. 3/ A soft contoured oblong for a slightly safer option. The Abbott by Claire Goldsmith – www.clairegoldsmith.com – is a good example of stylish but easy-to-wear; the red tone is very good for paler skin tones but often gets overlooked. A high quality acetate will always look elegant and a cut above the rest.
If you have a question about spectacles and styling, you can write to Eyestylist at [email protected]tylist.com. We also recommend talking to a local independent optician stocking a good range of design collections. See the Eyestylist Boutiques section to find some of the top optical boutiques around the world.
1st August 2014 Eric Balzan and Mirko Forte are continually inspired by the mysterious and beautiful Dolomite Mountains, and their new design is a replica of the heirloom Military Goggles they found on the mountainous former battlefield, that instigated the HAPTER project. Model MG01 is crafted with the special manufacturing process applied to the entire tx1001 collection.
Surgical steel and Superfine Merino wool manufactured by the renowned Italian Cerruti Woolen Mills pair in a design that is timeless in creativity and quality. Zeiss sun lenses with Gold ET Zeiss exclusive anti-reflective coating ensure protection and style. Photographed on 5 Torri (five towers) in The Dolomites, and the model is mountain guide Andrea, a close friend of the founders. www.hapter.it
A creative collaboration between horn eyewear maker RIGARDS and the avant-garde Shanghai-based designer Ziggy Chen has produced an exciting and special Limited Edition frame. The glasses are amazingly crafted with interesting graceful, hand-carved bevels and curves that reference the robust brush strokes found in East Asian calligraphy. The effect is a three-dimensional quality, and the hand-polished matte finish calls to mind elegant calligraphy ink stones. The semi-rimless design also features a keyhole nose bridge and curved temple tips. Distinguished and distinctive, the frame is carved out of a solid block of genuine horn, and available in natural colours of black and onyx. www.rigards.comJG
The contemporary styling of Jono Hennessy’s latest optical collection flatters a variety of face shapes. With beautiful colourations of silky Japanese turquoise acetate, highlighted with laminated tortoiseshell, the frame has a soft glow that harmonizes with the lovely jewel tones that are a fashion trend for autumn/winter 2014/2015. www.jonohennessy.comJG
Robert and Paul, from RVS by V., give a hint of what’s coming up from designer Vidal Erkohen for Autumn/Winter 14/15. Taking inspiration from the late 80s, the styles showcase a new direction in metal/acetate frame combos. The bridge is a detailed gold piece which is screwed in to the acetate with the RVS by V. signature hand painted red screws. As with most of the frames from this brand, the styles are available in an exciting choice of 15 different single colours and endless custom colour combinations. Prices from US$375. See more details at www.rvsbyv.comCN
A romantic, dreamy design, Magdalena echoes a hint of vintage with a beautifully sculpted acetate shape. The colourations are luxurious – gradations of mauve to rose to blush add subtle elegance. Another superb colour in this new and stunning optical collection by Vera Wang is Iceberg – cool and chic. For more information visit www.kenmarkoptical.comJG
Part of a new Modernist concept launched this year by French brand Anne & Valentin, the Modern Art frame is immediately eye-catching with its soft round inner rim and modified oval shape on the outer rim – a new take on the traditional panto. The frames in the Modernist collection all have the metal temple detail that ‘wraps’ onto the acetate front. A perfectly classic design – full of spark and good taste – that will have a lasting appeal through the seasons and years to come. www.anneetvalentin.comCN
Inspired by the opulence and passion of the opera, XL2049 features seven-lined temple filaments that represent musical sound waves. Created in lightweight and luxurious Excellence Titan, the delicately crafted temples express a melodic synthesis of design and technology.A frame that captures the emotion and joy of an operatic performance! Colours include a soft café au lait (featured) plus gold and pink. www.charmant.comJG
1st August 2014 Marvellous masks, Carnival and Venice have a long and illustrious history. Masks by Kartaruga are sought after not only for Carnival, but are used for opera and theatre, cinema and fashion shoots. A mask is, of course, an accessory. So eighteen month ago, Kartaruga opened a stunning accessory boutique, with beautiful bags, scarves, jewellery and hats. Managed by the effervescent Francesca Cecamore on calle de le bande in the heart of Venice, the accessories are all created by independent designers. “I love jewellery, I love accessories!”, exclaims Francesca, “and we have specialist creators, several in Venice and Naples, who make items for us. The main purpose of accessories is to be elegant, but simple.”
Francesca and her staff are knowledgeable and helpful, and delighted to show customers the beautiful accessories. There are wonderful clutch bags in snakeskin and leather; great totes, elegant scarves in cotton and linen; an assortment of lovely jewellery, and super hats. You won’t leave empty-handed after a visit to Kartaruga! www.kartaruga.comJG
Photos: Exclusively for Eyestylist by Travelonics LLC
1st August 2014 Coppe Gualtiero and Sid Fiz talk to Eyestylist about their designs.
“We have been active in the optical industry for over twenty years. Our worldwide travel experience was an inspiration for us when the idea of creating Coppe+Sid emerged a few years ago. We wanted to create something of an exceptional quality with no compromise for our optician friends. When Coppe+Sid was born five years ago, there was no business planning, just a passion to create beautiful eyewear with the best materials in the best factories possible. Handcrafted in Italy is at the heart of our collection, and we are always inspired by looking at the rich and colourful past. Whether it is an old movie, architecture, fashion or a beautiful classic car that inspires us, we try to bring that forward to relate to today.
“We love acetate – it’s tactile and versatile – it has soul. We never work with mood boards or look at colours and think what is in this season. The “IN” season shape or colour is what we like to get away from as far as possible.We create modern classics, with no logo, made by the finest craftsmen. Our customers are people who appreciate quality and understand the artisanal work involved in producing Coppe+Sid. Our showroom in London has allowed us to work more closely with consumers and this is a great experience for us, to see customers and experience their feedback. We like to see the smile when they are fitted with a Coppe+Sid frame and hear the compliments! It is an absolute joy and an affirmation we are doing the right thing by pushing the boundaries when we create.
“In the last few years, we have seen a movement towards more artisanal craftsmanship – something of an old school production concept. At the same time, the new 3D printing is pushing the boundaries forward. It’s very interesting that on one hand we see a harking back to the old times, but also we see technologies developing eyewear that are looking to the future. Eyewear is an integral part of fashion – we look at iconic figures such as Michael Caine, John Lennon, Audrey Hepburn…can we imagine them without their glasses and sunglasses? Can we imagine Jack Nicholson without his sunnies? In relation to today’s world, specs are simply cool. Geek chic is here to stay. Glasses act as a face accessory – to hide – or to dress up and transform yourself. They are no longer just a pair of glasses. Consumers are aware of the powerful transformation the right pair of glasses have on the wearer.” www.coppeandsid.com JG
Photos: Exclusively for Eyestylist by Luca Santocono All Rights Reserved
1st August 2014 Christian Dior became the most famous couturier in the world when his first collection appeared in 1947. Dior’s mother Madeleine and his boyhood home “Les Rhumbs” were always inspiration for the shy and retiring Frenchman. Nowadays, the tranquil setting of Les Rhumbs in Granville, France is a charming museum that hosts special summer exhibitions. This year is a retrospective of the legendary photographers who took images of Dior’s beautiful collections. In the post-war years, Richard Avedon, Horst P. Horst, Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn, Henry Clarke, and Helmut Newton are among the exalted photographers who captured the magic of Dior designs. Contemporary talents photographing Dior include Bruce Weber, Nick Knight, Terry Richardson and Patrick Demarchelier, among others. A selection of two hundred iconic images accompanied by approximately sixty haute couture dresses and archival documents reveals the historic ties the House of Dior has with celebrated talents. To mark the occasion, Rizzoli has published a book with the same title, and include many images that have never been seen before. Dior: The Legendary Images continues through 21st September. www.musee-dior-granville.comJG