and at Eyestylist we’re happy to celebrate wonderful new eyewear discoveries – both beautiful and exciting – for 2015. This month we again feature outstanding International Designers in REVIEWS; visit an über-chic boutique in Amsterdam, meet a globally acclaimed craftsman in Designer of the Month; and visit an exceptional fashion exhibition in New York City. Eyestylist wishes the happiest and healthiest New Year to our sponsors and readers!
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30th January 2015 The little Ethiopian lad above smiles delightedly because he is able to read. He is among the fortunate children who have benefited from the initiatives of Orbis, the international eye charity that works to prevent and treat avoidable blindness, particularly in children. Eye surgeon, Dr. Julie Diem Le and the founder of the award winning British brand Zoobug, commented: “We have been looking forward to working with Orbis and supporting their initiatives for improving eye health care, and the availability of much needed trachoma treatments for children in Africa.”
Orbis and Zoobug are united in their objective to raise awareness of the global issue of childhood blindness, which is an enormous challenge to developing countries. Saving or restoring a child’s sight depends on early detection, the quality of the treatment and the follow-up care received. Orbis also operates the Flying Eye Hospital, which is a fully equipped mobile teaching hospital.
Dr. Le founded Zoobug with a strong message about eye protection for children and safety in the sun. The designs for youngsters combine fun, fashionable styles that children love, plus desirable colours and clever details. www.zoobug.comwww.orbis.orgJG
Iconic store opens doors to Danish titanium collection
28th January 2015The OG flagship store in London is now stocking Danish label Ørgreen, following the alliance between the two brands, announced last September (https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/09/designers-unite/). Arriving just in time for Spring, the Copenhagen brand does fine titanium frames and sunglasses with an emphasis on sleek modern styling in accessible style-driven colourways.
Try a classic style like Observer (above) for super comfort and up to the minute refinement or go a little bit more wild and fashion savvy with the excellent Visionaire, a modified pince-nez inspired design with circular eye shape; the brilliant modern colours include mat Olympian blue with sandblasted titanium.
27th January 2015Luxury decoration is a desirable look for 2015 – but it is by no means a direction that is new. In ‘Eyewear – A Visual History‘ by Moss Lipow, frames of the 50s are described as “heavily festooned” with motifs – from small and subtle to positively crazy, embellished lavishly with pavé rhinestones, or synthetic – sometimes genuine – rubies and diamonds. Art deco design was much referenced with rhinestones being the preferred sparkle for many women’s designs of the time.
Today, the most desirable decorations on eyewear are those by independent designers who set the bar high: they include wonderful floral designs, metal work, handmade porcelain and luxurious hand assembled gem embellishments – notably, by a young generation of talented female designers including Anna-Karin Karlsson (Sweden) – www.annakarinkarlsson.com, Kerin Rose (NYC) – www.a-morir.com, and Moo Piyasombatkul (Thailand).
Polish based Massada Eyewear – by designer Kate Lupinsky,- adds another take on statement-making decoration in the independent segment, with the launch of her own jewellery collection online. Designed as customised eyewear jewellery, the frames are embellished with 50s inspired decorations on either side of the front. “Model Gnossienne (above and below) is named after a word created by French composer, Eric Satie,” explains Lupinsky. “It was a word to describe a new type of musical symbol.” The frame offers an opportunity to the wearer to decide on their own colour composition, including the lens tint, frame colour and decorative gold and metal work.
Swan Lake (above) features a removable gold clip with coloured Swarovski elements. Made in Italy, each design is classically inspired with an elegant finish, and, for unique contrast, fitted with brightly toned mirror lenses. RRP from 569 euros. www.massadaeyewear.comCN
23rd January 2015 Designers Christian Roth and Eric Domège live in Miami’s South Beach, and find the area a haven for all-round cool-factor renaissance. Roth and Domège report: “Miami is an all-hours, high-octane city with a casual, sexy magnificence and a laid back attitude. It has the best beaches, tropical landscaping, amazing restaurants, and is a lure for young artists and lovers of art.
“The vibrant colour of this tropical city is mixed with a fabulous range of architecture from the 1920’s until today. Miami Beach has become more than a resort area and playground…it is on the way to become a city of the future.
“Fly Girl is a classic CR design that is very Miami, very resort chic, and very 2015. We have designed it in blue for the ocean, green and tortoise for the lush and tropical vegetation of the region, and in pink (top image) for the Art Deco colourations of Miami Beach.”
South Beach vibes are also evident in Power Plug, sleek sunglasses with a seamless look and feel. High gloss black acetate is accented with gold titanium temples. Korean artist, JunChang Park, designed a whimsical geometric pattern featured on the enamel placement as an ode to the Christian Roth brand. All CR frames are handcrafted in Japan. JG
21st January 2015 This month, Auerbach & Steele in London launches a bespoke design collection in collaboration with Central Saint Martin’s (CSM), one of the world’s leading centres for art and design education. The collection is available on request at Auerbach & Steele’s flagship store on the King’s Road, Chelsea – with prices from £1600 pounds.
Forty BA jewellery design students were briefed on the basic requirements of a spectacle frame; they were then asked to submit two designs each, one functional and one extravagant.
Judged by a panel of industry experts including owner, Gail Steele, a series of winners have gone on to have their frames developed and manufactured by A&S. Above: Design inspired by Asian face jewellery, created by Haya Lutfullah, age 21, from Pakistan. (Price £2300).
A&S are constantly looking for new, innovative ways to expand the brand which has been at the forefront of avant-garde eyewear since its inception in 1996. The project with CSM, voted the world’s best higher education institution in 2012, was developed as a way of investing in the achievements and creative energy of its graduates.
A&S was looking to find the ‘next big thing’ in eyewear design, as well as add an extra dimension to the carefully edited range of ophthalmic frames available for purchase at A&S – ensuring the brand remains at the forefront of the spectacle frame industry.
The Auerbach & Steele King’s Road store has on display more than 1,000 spectacle frames and sunglasses. A & S’s frame ranges are not the usual designer logo collections that are found in every high street opticians. Auerbach & Steele staff search the world for unusual, off-beat styles, such as Caroline Abram, Adrian Marwitz, Rolf Spectacles and Mondelliani to name but a few of their desirable mix of frames. Auerbach & Steele, 129 King’s Road, Chelsea, London SW3 4PWwww.auerbach-steele.comCN
20th January 2015 London’s optical fair 100%, now in its second year, is coming up in early February; in anticipation, Eyestylist has been looking ahead at highlights and launches for the new season: lively colour trends, modified eyewear shapes and new materials in the collections by independent designers.
ic! berlin’s cutting-edge Plotic Collection – 3D printed eyewear – will be on show in London for the first time. Highlights are the two plotic-metal hybrids with a revolutionary new half ring construction. The state-of-the-art 3D printed material has a soft, very desirable finish, and combined with metal, brings new possibilities in aesthetics – an exciting move forward. www.ic-berlin.de
The showcase of European design labels at 100% includes Copenhagen’s Ørgreen who promise several new releases in their Titanium collection, including Vicki (above), in a smooth finish – pictured here in a deep berry tone. www.orgreenoptics.com
At Parisian label Face à Face, an offering of specs in multiple colour combinations sets the Spring mood. They include this expressive panto shape – model Emmie (above) – in teal and black, and the imaginative Bocca line.
Bocca City 2 (above) is a charming example of the opticals in this creative collection – a simple, easy-to-wear shape combines with elegant legs wearing fabulous fashionista shoes. www.faceaface-paris.com
London’s iconic brand Oliver Goldsmith will attend the fair with their OG Sunglasses Collection and modern CG line from Claire Goldsmith. Their new Spring collections propose several wonderful OG Icons: Gopas (above), a beautifully crafted classic flattop, dating back to 1972, has enduring appeal: available today in fresh colourways such as matte Tokyo black, Wakame and matte dark tortoise. www.olivergoldsmith.com
100% Optical takes place from 7th to 9th February 2015 at Excel London; for further details and a full list of exhibitors, visit www.100percentoptical.comCN
16th January 2015Silhouette welcomes the resort season with new designs that are innovative and sleekly minimalist. Modern twists on favourite shapes are further enhanced with beautiful colourations and attention to details.
Allure (above) was designed in the 1970’s – a frame with originality and personality. The low-set temple arms deliver a standout feature to create an unconventional design, and a striking statement in luxurious colour.
The Aviator shape is the style-stamp of US Air Force pilots, and this classic design – Adventurer Aviator – is re-visted by Silhouette in a rimless interpretation, suitable for both men and women. A super look for functionality and sophistication. www.silhouette.comJG
13th January 2015The Opti fair this weekend showcased exceptional talent in fine eyewear design. Natural materials remain an important highlight in the artisan collections, and there were several new releases and trends on the rise.
Rolf Spectacles launched “Topolino 94”, a distinctive round shape, and part of their “evolved collection”. Inspired by the Fiat Topolino, one of the smallest cars in the world at the time of its production, the name also translates as “little mouse” (and Mickey Mouse, from the Italian). Topolino comes in four covetable natural wood combinations: smoked eucalyptus, bog oak/maple/bog oak, bog oak/walnut and walnut (pictured above). www.rolf-spectacles.com
Rigards showed new “slow-wear” natural horn designs in their collection of heirloom pieces with a unique and enduring beauty. They include model RG 0044 (above), a gentle almond eye shape combined with a special high bridge and pale lilac tinted lenses. www.rigards.com.
From Denmark, Kilsgaard showed a first-class Acetate Collection, handcrafted in Japan. Bestselling shapes in their aluminium line have been translated into acetate, and a balanced natural colour palette lends refinement – they include classical Havana, dark tortoise and subdued classics like bottle green and amber with a subtle fade effect (model Petri, above). A shiny miniature metal Kilsgaard logo is embedded in temple ends. www.kilsgaard-eyewear.com
At a packed Andy Wolf stand, natural acetate colours sat alongside more adventurous neons and brights, a suggestion that both colour palettes will keep their place as lead fashion directions in 2015. Andy Wolf 5045c (above) is one of the Austrian label’s optical show pieces – a super statement cat-eye shape in smooth ivory-like dual tone acetate. For full details visit www.andy-wolf.atCN
The Opti trade fair takes place from 15th to 17th January 2016, at the Fairground Messe Munchen. Visit www.opti.de/en/home/CN
9th January New and beautiful eyewear collections launch in Munich today, and here are three designs to put on your must-see list. Theo brings sunny cheer to eyewear with Mille+14 (above) in translucent orange. This is a striking new acetate colour in the collection, featuring both a shiny and rough finish, in a bold statement theo shape. www.theo.be
Suzy Glam is planning in advance for holiday escapades with Fasten Seat Belt Sunglasses. The elegantly bevelled acetate shape is gracefully sculpted into a lovely modern retro frame, in delicious Toffee with grey gradient lenses. www.suzyglam.com
Vinylize in Budapest celebrate English rock band Pink Floyd with a Limited Edition. Rare blue coloured Pink Floyd vinyl is re-mastered into designer eyewear. The grooves pass from the vinyl onto the frame. With these frames in super cool electric blue, you are ready to rock! www.vinylize.comJG
6th January 2015 The Munich optical event Opti is three days away and we are pleased to highlight some of the launches and new products that will premier at the fair, by a selection of international brands and eyewear independents.
Tom Stevens launches a new concept in 3D technology frames, featuring 7 models including model D02, a modified cateye (pictured above). Produced in the Netherlands, the collection is created using a high-tech process for printing, polishing and colouring, followed by the assembly of the parts by hand. The 3D collection is a new addition to the existing Tom Stevens Collection of Mazzucchelli acetates and super thin beta titanium frames, produced in Japan. www.stevenseyewear.com
US label SALT, specialists in refined, paired down shapes with a gorgeous quality and finish, bring their full collection featuring refined acetates in crystal and landscape inspired colours; clean cut, modern optical design Albert is one of their eye-catchers in tea toned crystal (above) – or smokey grey, matte burlywood or matte black havana. Handmade in Japan. www.saltoptics.com
Known for his creative artistry young Parisian eyewear entrepeneur Jeremy Tarian presents his charming Limited Editions in Munich this week. Faubourg is the ultimate designer style with 50s inspired proportions and a neat metal insert on frame front and temples, coordinating with the marbled tones of the acetate structure and delicate colored lens tints. www.jeremytarian.com
Award-winners Kirk & Kirk from the UK highlight the desirability of animal motifs in high fashion in their launch collection, Vivarium, where tiny silver or gold animal pins are a featured decoration – choose a lion, ram, horse or fly. Acrylic frame Carson is decorated with the silver fly (above) and comes in this excellent shade of vivid blue – a favourite tone that continues to grace the catwalks. www.kirkandkirk.com
Italian innovators Hapter bring their collection from Italy following another award success: the label has just won the Good Design Award by the Chicago Atheneum of Design and Architecture, one of the most prestigious design awards in North America. Model D01M (above) is Hapter’s bestseller and is typical of Hapter’s finely crafted thin profiles and retro-inspired aesthetics. A frame that is entirely produced in Italy in surgical steel and high-end textiles. Find out more at www.hapter.it CN
The British naval officer and explorer John Oxley is the inspiration for Shane Baum’s elegant Oxley, in lightweight titanium that is plated in 18K gold, with a thin acetate silhouette that creates a luxurious two-tone look. High quality enamel and intricately etched insets on precious metal add to the subtle refinement. Handcrafted in Japan, polarized CR-39 lenses with Anti-reflective UGR12, and Diamond Cast Anti-Scratch, Hydrophobic coating complete the striking look. Available in Havana Tortoise 18K Gold (above) plus matte black 12K silver, and brown 24K gold. www.leisure-society.comJG
Rust is perfect for a man of stature who wishes to wear a high-quality titanium frame: a medium rectangular shape with compact proportions, this frame has a strong identity and yet won’t take over the face. The contours are slim and the bridge is paired down, in line with current trends for men. A closer look with show the attention to detail in the Danish handcrafting and an original colour palette. Orgreen Optics will attend the OPTI show in Munich – www.opti.de. For the latest updates visit www.orgreenoptics.comCN
A snappy green acetate frame is the ideal solution to perk up wintery days. Lafont’s soft retro shape with beautiful temple detailing in gradated green tones reflects quiet elegance, with a sculptured frame front for additional distinction. Lafont is exhibiting at OPTI Munich, where the entire collection of optical designs and sunglasses for men, women and children can be seen. www.lafontparis.comwww.opti.deJG
A good example of the clever colorations in the autumn/winter acetate release by ic! berlin. Five subdued and shadowy acetate colourways are represented, each one offering a cool earth tone such as flint grey, yellow sand or brown driftwood, as pictured, inspired by driftwood washed up on the beach. Frames can be fitted as opticals or sunglasses with slick matching graduated lens colours. The natural finish of the material is modern and mature. See more images at https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/11/trends-the-two-tone-front.www.ic-berlin.deCN
African beauty and mystery influence L.G.R.’s Sahara sunglasses. The bold character of the design is characterised with superb quality cellulose acetate in Havana brown that extends to the temples, and a black stainless steel lower rim and nose bridge. Tempered mineral glass lenses are an important feature in sunglasses, and the Blue High Definition lenses in Sahara are exceptionally fine quality. For more L.G.R. eyewear excitement, visit their new website at www.lgrworld.comJG
1st January 2015The enthusiastic crowd jostled for shoulder space, while enjoying the music and festive atmosphere. The occasion was the opening of the Suzy Glam Boutique in Amsterdam – a cause for celebration for the Swiss born-Netherlands based designer. The boutique is the culmination of months of work by Susanne Klemm and her partner Etienne Frederiks. “We’ve done everything ourselves,” said Frederiks, “and that includes all the electrical work and painting, and Susanne did the design. The previous owner of this shop – which was a sport shop specialist with lots of fishing items – really didn’t do anything to the space for probably forty years. It’s been a lot of work, but we enjoy it.”
The shop location is close to the Museum District, and the famed Concertgebouw, and easily reached by Amsterdam’s convenient and marvellous trams. The shop interior is refined and uncluttered – just like the exquisite eyewear designs by Susanne Klemm. Walls are pristine white – a perfect backdrop for the collection. The previous shop owner left his fine wood shelving and glass-fronted cases, which turn out to be ideal for eyewear display and stock.
It is just two years since Suzy Glam was launched, and her frames are now sold internationally. Suzy Glam was awarded Gold in The Hall of Frames/Eyestylist Newcomer Award in 2013. The opening night showcased the SG collection and the guest collection of Paulino Spectacles from Portugal, with designer Ramiro Paulino present.
The event was an exhilarating occasion for the presentations of exciting collections. Eyestylist wishes Susanne Klemm and Etienne Frederiks every success with their new boutique. Along with Van Gogh and The Rijksmuseum on your Amsterdam to do list, remember to include Suzy Glam Boutique! Roelof Hartstraat 32 1071 VK Amsterdam www.suzyglam.comJG
Photos: Photo of Susanne Klemm, Ramior Paulino and Etienne Frederiks by Dervin Curiel All other images by Dick Kikstra
Zac Posen launched his modern American glamorous fashion collection in 2001. The award winning designer is recognised for his artisanal craftsmanship and masterful use of textiles.
Do you have any favourite inspirations for designing clothing and eyewear? “I’m inspired by everything that surrounds me – people, places, art, and even a mood. I recently created a colourful gown in my ZAC Zac Posen collection that was inspired by a sunset I saw while taking a vacation in Harbour Island. I wouldn’t say one influence has driven the design of our eyewear collection. I’ve drawn inspiration from the essence and DNA within the Zac Posen brand. The collection, both men’s and women’s, is infused with the notion of modern American glamour that is always present in everything I create. Translating that to eyewear has been an exciting process for me.”
What is your favourite material in which to design clothing – and eyewear? “That’s hard to say, I’ve used so many wonderful and highly innovative materials and fabrics from all around the world over the years. In eyewear I’ve always loved the use and look of metal combined with other materials. We always try to use it in innovative and interesting ways to create a bold and distinctive frame that exudes sophisticated glamour.”
What do you find the most interesting aspect in eyewear design?“Form and function within the design of eyewear has always interested me. The use of certain methods when designing eyewear fascinates me. It’s essential that you consider the function of the product when introducing certain design elements or materials to the frame.”
You are now designing Bridal wear – are their other items you would like to design – perhaps beyond fashion? “Of course! Design and my love for creating is definitely not exclusive to fashion. I’ve been fortunate enough to create many other things outside my Zac Posen brand. I’ve designed cars, technology products, and even a Barbie! I always look to stretch my design skills outside of my everyday role so I am continually inspired and challenged.”
Do your fashion designs ever inspire frames – or frames a fashion piece? “Yes, quite often one influences the other. Both the dramatic and subtle gestures of our pieces can be translated across to the eyewear. We also design our exclusive runway eye collection to fit into the overall design theme of that particular season. The design consistency across the categories allow us to maintain the common themes that build brand recognition.” www.zacposen.comwww.kenmarkoptical.comJG
Victorian & Edwardian Mourning Attire at Anna Wintour Costume Center New York City
1st January 2015 “She was beginning to find that everyone had an air of remoteness; she seemed to see people and life through the confusing blur of the long crape veil in which it was a widow’s duty to shroud her affliction.” Edith Wharton, “New Year’s Day,” in Old New York (New York; D. Appleton, 1924
Mourning after the death of a loved one was an intricate part of social mores in the 19th Century. Throughout this period, the duty of wearing mourning fell primarily on women, whose sartorial choices were seen as a reflection of the family’s collective grief, as well as their social status, economic standing, and level of respectability. A woman in full mourning dress became the emblematic icon of bereavement in Europe and America. Mourning dress served as a visual symbol of grief and respect for the deceased.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York traces the mores and fashions of this period in Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire. The mourning period could be up to a year; however, after being widowed in 1861, Queen Victoria limited her public appearances, and dressed in shades of mourning for the remaining forty years of her life, presenting an image of chast widowhood, in her “widow’s weeds.” The thematic exhibition is organised chronologically and features mourning dress from 1815 to 1915, primarily from The Costume Institute’s collection.
Formal rituals of bereavement aided in memorializing the dead, and mourning attire was subject to increasingly complex codes of etiquette and fashion. For Queen Victoria, in her forty years of widowhood, her mourning never lightened. When King Edward, Victoria’s son died in 1910, The Palace issued messages that wedding celebrations should take place as scheduled. The weddings did take place, but most guests still wore black. Even in sadness and grief, fashion played an influential role. Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire continues at the Metropolitan Museum of Art through 1st February 2015. www.metmuseum.orgJG
All images: Gallery View Anna Wintour Costume Center, Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery Copyright: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
1st January 2015A hint of Spring colour is on the way, and new combinations are on the rise. The classic monochrome black and white pairing sees a new influence: canary, acid or mustard yellow tones. In eyewear and accessories, these colours pop up in inspiring interpretations, retro tinged and perfectly glamorous.
Velvet Valerie in the “theo by Tim Van Steenbergen Hollywood Classics” collection is our choice in black for those coordinating this colour combo. Inspired by Hollywood diva Valerie Stanton this is a glossy acetate design with matte detailing and a wonderful classically inspired voluminous shape. www.theo.be
Team the above with diva heels: Si-V’s Scarpa 6 is part of the Italian label’s New York School Collection SS15, a line that explores several trios of colour in shoes and bags. Designer Sivan Shraga, who we met last season at Tranoi embraces a colourful world of artsy Pollock inspired prints, block colours, prints and polka dots for this new elegant Made-in-Italy collection. www.sivmilano.com
Envol by Face à Face is the sweetest most feminine version we found of this three way colour trend in eyewear: the miniature houndstooth print in classic black is trimmed with an uplifting coloured eyebrow. www.faceaface-paris.com
Barbara McReynolds of l.a.Eyeworks has long been a proponent of bright hues such as yellow in eyewear and wears this colour herself – see the Eyestylist Designer of the Month feature in October 2014 (www.eyestylist.com/2014/10/l-a-eyeworks/). The stylish sunglass Gigantor is the label’s latest design on the theme in acetate/metal, with subtle graduated brown lens. Team with the dazzling l.a. Eyeworks polka dot pattern case – releasing as part of the 2015 collection in the deliciously zingy canary/black matching colourway. www.laeyeworks.comCN