Beautiful eyewear – optical frames and sunglasses – surprise and delight with stunning new season styles. Shapes are varied; colours range from subtle tones to rich colourations; and materials combine classic favourites and high tech innovations. Click on all the Eyestylist sections, and find creative eyewear – skillfully crafted – from international independent designers – plus boutiques and captivating cultural quests.
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Napoleon III used aluminium plates for state dinners – and Jules Verne – in his novel – “Journey to the Moon” – describes an aluminium space rocket. Now Ti Kwa at RIGARDS, uses this exceptional and naturally occurring metal for sculpted frames. This traditional material is strong, yet lightweight, durable and non-toxic. The result is five marvellously crafted designs in three colours – grey, ink blue, and gold.
Creative shapes for men and women that embrace RIGARDS gutsy, yet refreshing eyewear expressions, enhance the designs. The frames feature specially created screw-less hinges, and innovatively designed nose-pads for superb fit. For more info on RIGARDS Metalloid directional frames, visit www.rigards.comJG
From Heidelberg to Zurich, and many other towns, opticians and visitors arrived in Stuttgart for Die Brillenmesse 2015. The vibrant Motorworld location for the 4th edition of Die Brillenmesse was a success, according to Dirk Geissmann, one of the event organisers.
“There was a ten percent increase in visitors; and a happy relaxed ambience confirmed that the format of the show works,” said Steffen Keil, the show partner with Geissmann, “because when we started, there was much more distance between the brand representatives and the visitors. This year, there were no barriers – visitors stayed for a long time, and engaged with the exhibitors. There is a real interest in designer brands, an openness, almost a hunger, for new ideas.”
Motorworld is a place dedicated entirely to automobiles,” noted Nathanaël Wenger, the third member of the Die Brillenmesse team, “and it is an interesting mix between a museum, exhibition, and work space for car lovers. The combination of fine designer glasses and vintage autos works perfectly. New brands in Stuttgart this year included 999.9; Tom Rebl; Dick Moby; Robert Rüdger; JF Rey and Liebeskind.” Save the dates now for 2016! Die Brillenmesse at Motorworld 15th and 16th October. www.diebrillenmesse.deJG
Top photo: Dirk Geissmann co-coordinator Die Brillenmesse with eyewear designers Adrian Marwitz and Didier Voirol. 1974 red convertible Jaguar courtesy of Arthur Bechtel Classic Motors at Motorworld www.arthur-bechtel.com All photos for Eyestylist by Rouven Koehnen All Rights Reserved
Congratulations go out to Norwegian brand Karmoie, who have become one of the few eyewear labels to gain the Positive Luxury Butterfly Mark for social commitment (www.positiveluxury.com).
Karmoie founders Lars and Kirsten Iversen say their aim is to create beautiful, uncompromising eyewear while also contributing in a committed and conscious way towards a better future. For every pair of Karmoie frames sold, a pair of corrective glasses is given to a person in need, through a partnership with Eyejusters.
The Butterfly Mark is awarded by Positive Luxury – the organisation that communicates and celebrates luxury brands’ sustainable actions – and is a seal of approval which enables consumers to recognise brands they can trust.
Through Positive Luxury’s screening process, Karmoie has demonstrated a commitment to people and the planet across all aspects of their business including sourcing traceability policies, reducing their environmental footprint and the use of sustainable and recyclable materials. For more information, visit www.karmoie.com CN
Swiss, German and Austrian opticians visited the recent Hall of Frames event in Zurich – the only platform for designer frames in Switzerland. Kongresshaus was the amicable location, affording a quintessential view of Zurich’s beautiful lake and mountains. Co-coordinator Nathanael Wenger said; “This simple and elegant show is a ‘must go’ for all boutique opticians, and it is also a good opportunity to meet up with colleagues and friends.
“New brands presented for the first time in Zurich included: Edwardson from Geneva; Tom Rebl and Retrosuperfuture from Italy; Caroline Abram and Anne et Valentine from France; and Claire Goldsmith and Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses from the UK.” Wenger noted that the diversity in style, sizes and colours is huge – “there are almost no limits in every direction. We could see an increasing number of brands with oversized, fine rimmed metal frames, from Coblens, Orgreen, and Götti – this could be the next big trend.”
Dates for the 2016 Hall of Frames Zurich have already been set – so note on your calendar – 2nd and 3rd October 2016 – to discover the latest, distinctive, artisan eyewear collections surrounded by Switzerland’s majestic beauty. www.hallofframes.chJG
Top Photo: Nathanael Wenger, Tina, the ad campaign model, and Dirk Geissmann
The world-famous modernist De La Warr Pavilion (www.dlwp.com) in Bexhill, England is the setting for an eyewear campaign by British eyewear label, Rockoptika. Creative Director Tom Herrington fulfils his passion for quality eyewear and fashion photography in the new images, which he shot with stylist Philly Piggott and assistant photographer Paul Cocks.
“The campaign is an integral part of my collection and how I believe it should be presented. I was already planning and visualising how it would look when I began to design the frames a year and a half ago. ”
Tom explains: “I love the De La Warr, and it’s just five miles away from RockOptika HQ in St Leonards on the English coast. It’s an exceptional backdrop for a luxury collection which has been created in tune with modernist aesthetics. We are a lucky to have had special access to shoot at this architectural landmark.”
The latest RockOptika collection is influenced by the sweeping curves, stark lines and muted colours of Bexhill’s iconic building. Featuring in the campaign are model Sinistre, a modified round shape with a flattened top – and Saiph and Vega, each one in keeping with the building’s hard edges and soft contours in a neutral colour palette – crystal, tortoise and classic black – creating a natural yet striking focus against the De La Warr’s streamlined concrete and steel. For more information about RockOptika frames, visit www.rockoptika.comCN
“My mission is to provide women with effortless sophistication” Wes Gordon
Young American designer Wes Gordon has teamed with Silhouette Eyewear in a new sunglasses collaboration for SS16, shown for the first time at New York Fashion Week in September.
With the super light qualities typical of the Austrian eyewear company, the small round design features rimless lenses in a barely there high tech wire frame, produced according to Silhouette’s state-of-the-art eyewear expertise.
Minimal and clean with a distinctive feminine charm, the design featured on the runway in four colours – nude brown, classic grey (pictured above), classic green and ocean blue, teamed with Gordon’s 2016 S/S Ready-to-Wear Collection, luxurious and timeless, with crisp silhouettes in coordinated white, yellow and neutral tones, and delicate monochrome prints. For more on Wes Gordon visit www.wesgordon.com. More details on Silhouette Eyewear at www.silhouette.comCN
Beautiful eyewear, vintage cars, and a countryside setting just outside Stuttgart, is an inviting prospect for the weekend of 17th and 18th October. The entertaining ambiance of Motor World hosts Die Brillenmesse, where approximately seventy international designers and companies will present their latest collections.
Both new brands exhibiting for the first time in Stuttgart, and familiar favourites will be showing their collections – including among others: Orgreen; Onkel Ferdi; KBL; Kirk & Kirk; Götti; L.G.R.; Entourage of 7; Face à Face; and Liebeskind. Kirk & Kirk presents their Kaleidoscope designs, and their lovely new matt colours in the Vivarium Collection. www.kirkandkirk.comTop image: Wallace in Cobalt Blue from the Vivarium Collection.
Sunglasses and optical frames in graceful shapes and lovely colours highlight the collection at Entourage of 7 in Denmark, all finely crafted in Japan. www.eof7.com
Liebeskind from Berlin features vibrant colourations with their own print creations, made with a high-resolution HD printing technology. The results are striking! www.wagner-kuehner.de
Die Brillenmesse is an excellent opportunity to investigate the latest collections by eyewear innovators in a unique and memorable location. So save the date – 17th and 18th October at Motor World in Stuttgart. Further details at www.diebrillenmesse.deJG
The Paris show Silmo yielded a vast array of exciting styles and trends, an opportunity for buyers to select high quality, high-tech, creative and unusual, individual designs – which are clearly seeing greater desirability for a wider audience.
Above: A new sleek limited edition aviator, handsome, minimal, and typically luxurious. Designed by Jesse Stevens. www.finestseven.com
RVS by V Handmade Eyewear had an eclectic mix of eye-popping acetates (model Fame and Flatliner), asymmetric ideas (Annette) and very clean minimal round shapes, including the new Avner, a stainless steel/Mazzucchelli acetate combination design – for sun or optical lens fittings. www.rvseyewear.com
Regular attendees showed a tremendous attention to design details – the most prevalent trend of them all – and a plethora of new colour, shape and design trends – very fine frame structures in metal and acetate, new interpretations in metal (Metalloid at Rigards was striking) and true finesse in finishings and material combinations. The flat-effect of the Base 2 lens popped up time and again and will lead in SS16. Sunglass shapes were classically inspired and included versions of the aviator, circular shapes, cat eyes and the P3 – but look our for more eccentric directions here too.
ic! berlin launched an exceptional collection produced with new Design Director, Werner Aisslinger. The line is made up of frames linked with members of the ic! berlin team, inspired by them, named after them and created by them, each with a unique story. The debut collection by Aisslinger with ic! Berlin, the products are designed according to shapes from different historical periods, reimagined with new technologies like the new superfine 4 mm hinge. Find out more at www.ic-berlin.de
Layering effects, in the same vein as fabric layering on the catwalks, were a popular way to explore a fresh design story. Kyme Sunglasses had some interesting pieces including floral decorations in a luxury collaboration with Rada and minimal layering effects on frame fronts, illustrated in model Sabry. www.kymesunglasses.com
Handmade artisan techniques were strongly represented as was the new avant-garde trend and ongoing development in 3d technology with excellent results at Cabrio Belgium (Cabriolet CC) and Tom Stevens. Mykita launched their digitally tailored eyewear concept, MY VERY OWN, MVO. Noteworthy independent brands exhibiting for the first time included specialist international creators Alfred Kerbs from Barcelona, Jacques Marie Mage from LA and Dabrach from Italy – www.dabrach.com, all showing commitment to eyewear quality, precision and creative design.
More information about Silmo Paris can be found at www.silmoparis.com. The next Silmo Paris fair takes place on 23rd to 26th September 2016. CN
Small and charismatic or oversized and edgy, today’s cat’s eyes have come a long way since they first emerged in the 1950s and boomed as a decorative fashion accessory thanks to Elsa Schiaparelli. Interpretations in Paris this week were excitingly eclectic for SS16, and confirmed the classic shape will continue to impress.
Following the success of the limited edition Paris II, a creation with a-morir, RVS by V releases their own dual colour, hand finished statement metal cat eye design named Michelle (above), in thrilling colours, and in RVS by V tradition, with the added benefit of a standout mirror lens. www.rvseyewear.com
At la Eyeworks, the playful mood was enhanced by dynamic colour equations. Spectacle style Noisette presents an acetate overlay on beta titanium, in a gorgeous array of tones, such as ‘smoky iris split on deep eggplant’. “Daring and elegant” it is! www.laeyeworks.com
Barcelona’s newcomer Alfred Kerbs, exhibiting at Silmo for the first time this year, update a classic well-fitting cat eye form with a minimal full-screen lens by Divel, attached to the front of the frame. The Mazzucchelli material and its graduated colouring turn the retro shape into an elegant modern proposal. ‘Le Chat’ comes in three distinctive colour choices. www.alfredkerbs.com CN
Setting the tone for the season, this very fine acetate model 9184 comes in fancy graduated tones and soft matt finishes. Offering as always a great level of comfort and fit, the designs in this collection are for stepping out confidently. The understated key hole bridge is a nice touch. www.carterbond.comCN
The cat-eye shape is enjoying a stylish renaissance, and Rome based designer Paola Costantini at Pollipo’ creates a beautifully feminine cat-eye frame in bi-layer acetate. The slender silhouette in asparagus green melts onto white horn sides. Pollipo’ also has a gorgeous range of handcrafted cases – including the handsome special patterned craquelé white leather design shown above. www.pollipocchiali.it JG
A new creative design from theo eyewear that plays on the concept of perspective or “representing depth in a painting or drawing”. The stainless steel frames in this eyewitness series feature two contour lines that give the impression of volume. Combining a basic colour and a shadow colour the result is a spectacular 3d optical illusion on the face, surprising, artistic, and a little bit light-hearted too! Launched this week at Silmo Paris. www.theo.be CN
Refinement, elegance and artistic elements characterise L.G.R. frames. Designer Luca Gnecchi Ruscone selects superb materials that are 100% crafted in Italy. Model Martin expresses contemporary style for men in sanded cellulose acetate in sleek matt blue. With a passion for details, L.G.R. incorporates frame traditions with high tech innovations in each of their creations. www.lgrworld.comJG
Sinistre by RockOptika is a favourite style in this swish new line designed in the UK and made in France. Designer Tom Herrington offers a quirky take on artisan styling, with precise details, and painstaking attention to fit and technical details such as pantoscopic tilt. The result? Something we’d love to wear! www.rockoptika.comCN
Original Penguin celebrates their 60th anniversary with a Special Edition frame that captures the brand’s vintage heritage. This cool eyewear design for men combines a nostalgic look and feel with trends of the moment.The SixtyGR features a retro shape in buffed grey matte acetate with black sides. www.kenmarkoptical.comJG
The charming Italian medieval village of Castiglione Olona is the home location for Mazzucchelli – the internationally acclaimed producers of acetate. Product Development Manager Elena Orsi Mazzucchelli has graciously shared the amazing history of this remarkable brand with Eyestylist.
Could you please give the history of Mazzucchelli? “Born as a tiny factory, established in 1849 for the production of combs and buttons made from animal horn, bone and tortoiseshell, Mazzucchelli is now the worldwide leader in the production and distribution of the plastic material traditionally used for the production of optical frames: Cellulose Acetate. The company, still owned by the Mazzucchelli family, has been operating for the last 165 years through 6 generations. Now, the last two generations are directly involved in the company, always focused on carrying out the traditional of this exceptional example of Italian excellence. Throughout the years, Mazzucchelli 1849 has been active in several industrial fields and is now performing as the parent company of the most important industrial conglomeration worldwide, which supplies semi-finished products for the optical market (acetate sheets and granules, metal components and sunglass lenses). Massucchelli’s products are aimed at markets ranging from spectacles, sunglasses and fashion accessories, to interior decoration and design objects, where quality and aesthetical values are greatly appreciated. The products with technical qualities are valued by safety, sports and automotive industries.”
Mazzucchelli has successfully survived major upheavals including two World Wars, and economic transitions. How has this been realised or accomplished? “Over three centuries entrepreneurial spirit, intuition, vision have enabled Mazzucchelli to take a global view of the countless new challenges of the market, and to converse with the fashion world, which demands a particular sensibility to aesthetical and innovative features.
“Quality, creativity, and innovation have always been Mazzucchelli’s core values and advantages over its competitors. Over the years, Mazzucchelli has always shown a great capacity for innovation and this has enabled the company to face successfully all the major upheavals, including the two World Wars and economic transitions. After the First World War, with great insight, Mazzucchelli decided to produce on an industrial scale the first thermoplastic material, celluloid, and celluloid still remains a vivid product in collective imagination. Another reason for the success of Mazzucchelli was the elaboration of a new product: cellulose acetate, a polymer of plant origin. The research laboratories developed this product which has the same characteristics of celluloid, but it is safer because it is flame-proof. Even when the standards of beauty evolved towards a ‘modern’ concept of design (since the 60’s), Mazzucchelli, thanks to its traditional vocation to be a pioneer, readily caught these new values participating actively in the new trend, and working with major companies such as Kartell and Campari in the production of articles which had become cult objects. Starting from the 70’s, the eyewear world has been highly influenced by design. Emerging Italian fashion designers, such as Armani, Valentino and Missoni gave a strong acceleration to the evolution of taste and distinguished themselves in the global fashion environment with the concept of Made in Italy. Mazzucchelli did not remain indifferent to such a huge phenomenon and conveyed the new standards to its product.”
What do you think is the most important development or improvement in the eyewear industry in the past fifty years? “Over the past fifty years, the biggest evolution in the eyewear industry has been the metamorphosis of the optical frame into a fashion accessory, a trendy item. Once the prosthesis function was lost, the optical frame became the answer – in the colours and designs to the specific taste of the moment. this was a real revolution, and since fashion entered the world of eyeglasses nothing has ever been the same. Mazzucchelli started to collaborate with leading fashion brands, and created a research center dedicated to the study of trends, and to all the socio-cultural factors capable of influence on the current taste. This research center, the historic ‘Centre O” is still operating and has become the undisputed benchmark in the world of eyewear.”
Mazzucchelli creates thousands of different colours every year – what general research methods do you incorporate in this massive project? “Product development has always been guaranteed by the Italian ‘Centre O’ based in Castiglione Olona. This research center works closely with brands, designers and customers from all over the world, offering a wide range of products and design consultancy. Every year this activity creates 40 collections inspired by different stylistic tendencies.The creative source for inspiration comes from fashion trends, design trends, from the suggestions collected travelling, from visits to fairs, art exhibitions, as well as from the stimulating conversations with customers, designers or artists. Besides the collections, Mazzucchelli annually develops about 6,000 new colours, unique products specifically manufactured for individual customers, developed to satisfy the need for customization, nowadays increasingly demanded by the market.”
What three colours are enduring favourites with designers? “The colour selection for optical frames includes: a tortoiseshell that, according to the prevailing fashion of the moment, could be a bleeding or a streaky tortoiseshell, or a spotted one. Black as a basic colour, and a unique colour and pattern combination which personalizes the selection.”
What are Mazzucchelli’s insights or perceptions for the future of eyewear? “Trends remain the guiding principles over the years, but as we have seen, a new requirement has become more assertive, that of personalization. We also feel that the quality and attention paid to detail will gain more significance each day, along with the need to accompany each product with its history, in order to convey its value and its DNA to the market. Eyeglasses will be more and more an object of cult used to reinforce the concept of brand identity. They will also become a new post-modern communicational tool, used to express one’s personality and to feel at ease in specific contexts.”
Creating Mazzucchelli acetate requires specialized skills. Nowadays, are young people interested in this unique and challenging career? “Every day we perceive an increasing interest in knowing more about the material used for production, because it’s only by being aware of its origin, of its history and of its components that we can be sure it is suitable to meet specific needs. Mazzucchelli manufacturers a wide range of products from classical to trendy and avant-garde. In particular, it’s the sheet produced following the Block process which represents a great attraction for stylists and designers, because the block, being made up of many and always different elements, can create inimitable effects allowing release of boundless and free creativity. This creativity can find expression thanks to the aesthetic sensibility of the workers in the laboratory, whose specialized skills are the outcome of a school, and a long cultural tradition and craftsmanship handed down from generation to generation. Yes, Mazzucchelli receives many requests from people who would like to take part in this creative process: this induces us to continue our work with great enthusiasm.” www.mazzucchelli.comJG
Les Lunettes Óptica, a leader in independent eyewear in Barcelona, has opened its third store, just off Paseo de Gracia and close to Gaudi’s exotic Casa Batlló. A minimal white interior with industrial vintage fittings and natural wood make a perfect backdrop for creative frames selected by Eva Mena.
Collections launched here in August included LGR, Res/Rei, Gentle Monster and Barcelona’s own young eyewear label, Alfred Kerbs.
Each of the Les Lunettes stores has a handpicked selection of frames and a different style of interior in keeping with the location of the store. Owner Eva explained: “All our stores are unique. The starting point for the new interior in Consell de Cent was a set of old industrial drawers and the iron stairway, painted neon yellow – with this we have added some 1950s touches including vintage mirrors and chairs. We will add more individual touches as we go along.”
Fashion, portrait and still life images by Irving Penn (1917-2009), are among the photography masterpieces in black-and-white and colour on display at the Smithsonian in Washington D.C. The exhibition is the first retrospective in twenty years of the photographer who captured street scenes from the American South; fine-art fashion photos; still life and celebrity portraits; and photos made for magazine editorials and commercial advertising; including previously unseen images.
Penn’s photographic career spanned nearly seventy years, and at Vogue magazine, Penn’s portraits and fashion images defined 1950’s elegance. There are approximately one hundred fifty photos, plus Super 8mm films of Penn in Morocco, made by his wife – who was a model – Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn – that add a dynamic insight into the artist at work.
Irving Penn: Beyond Beauty opens at The Smithsonian American Art Museum on 23rd October, and continues through 20th March 2016 – it will then travel to several cities across America. The exhibition beautifully celebrates Penn’s photographic legacy as a modern master of his craft. For info on The Smithsonian click on www. americanart.si.edu. For Exhibition details – www.americanart.si.edu/exhibitions/archive/2015/irving_penn/.JG
Photos: Top image – Irving Penn Leontyne Price New York, 1961 Smithsonian American Art Museum Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation Copyright Condé Nast Ball Dress: Smithsonian American Art Museum Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation Copyright Condé Nast Young Boy: Smithsonian American Art Museum Gift of The Irving Penn Foundation Copyright The Irving Penn Foundation