September 2016

Pushing boundaries: Silmo Paris 2016

At the heart of the fast-paced, fast-expanding frames market, creative innovation is as strong as ever, with independent designers and makers taking new routes that require experimental techniques, new technology and, at times, several years’ research and development. Silmo Paris is an international platform for inspired new design concepts and this year’s show confirmed that leading directions in eyewear revolve around huge opportunities in high-tech alongside a return to artisan principles and impressively high standards in handcrafting.

The Italian label LGR is one of the Italian leaders in small production artisan-quality eyewear. Founder Luca Gnecchi Ruscone (above right in model Scorpio) incorporates attentive details and finishes, noteworthy not only for their refined aesthetics but also for comfort and fit – the mix of classic and directional statement eyewear provides something for everyone who appreciates good design. Look out for their new “hammered” effect finish in the metal range – “it’s a little gothic,” says Gnecchi Ruscone with a smile. Very delicate metal profiles with high bridges connect each lens gracefully. www.lgrworld.com

Cole in moss by Gotti Switzerland
Cole in moss by Gotti Switzerland

Gotti Switzerland, a brand that specialises in quality, technical precision and beautiful quality materials, launched their first 3d printed collection: Dimension, at the show last weekend. Sven Gotti told Eyestylist he has been working with his team on this line for around three years with the aim of providing the same levels of detail, finish, comfort and fit in the cutting-edge material that they have mastered in acetate, horn and titanium. Further information at www.gotti.ch

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RES/REI’s Oliviero Zanon continues on the artisan path with dedication to design finesse and innovative aesthetic detailing in Mazzucchelli acetate. The new frames with tiny perforated decoration are ingenious and make a wonderful addition to the core collection. www.resrei.com

Vera Wang capsule collection
Vera Wang capsule collection

With metal sunglasses booming in terms of prevalent trends, several directions were quickly identified at the Paris show: very fine profiles, continued attention on the zero base “flat” suns lenses, and all kinds of ideas for double bridges and lens shapes. The Vera Wang collection from Kenmark is a luxury capsule line that embodies these particular details with subtlety and flair. www.verawang.com / www.kenmarkoptical.com

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Mondelliani's new Rigadritto collection
Mondelliani’s Rigadritto collection

Named after American actors – including Woody, Quentin, and Scarlet – the sunglasses in the Rigadritto collection are a first delightful step for the Rome-based brand Mondelliani towards an all metal construction. The frames are very light, easy to wear, and minimal in a design that speaks volumes on the face. www.mondelliani.it

Artisan expertise at Rigards
Artisan expertise at Rigards
Budri Eyewear: model Bernini
Budri Eyewear: model Bernini in precious Lapis Lazuli

Finally, collections using natural materials continue to expand with speed. The Silmo show had several highlights: Monoceros frames in buffalo horn, made from a single piece of horn, free from metal and plastic (www.monoceros.cc), Rigards’ buffalo horn creations by Ti Kwa, incorporating brilliant material mixes and exceptional textures, polished surfaces and coordinating colours – (www.rigards.com), and a new luxury eyewear collection in marble from the Italian Marble Inlay experts Budri, designed by Valerio Cometti in collaboration with Gianmarco Budri and a team of craftsmen. The collection has taken two years to come to fruition and includes marble, onyx and semi-precious stones. www.budri.com

Eyestylist looks forward to sharing further highlights, details and observations on the new collections in the months ahead.

Silmo Paris takes place from 6-9th October in 2017. For more details on the Silmo fair visit www.silmoparis.com CN

Hall of Frames Zurich: imaginative independent designers

A high point of the autumn fashion calendar is the Hall of Frames exhibition in Zurich. This distinguished event brings together independent eyewear designers who present their latest artisan inspirations – an A-List of creative spirits. Eyestylist showcases several of the participants whose designs capture the seemingly limitless possibilities for striking frames.

Parisian designer Jérémy Tarian – whose latest stunning collection is presented in Zurich – also conducts Master classes at the Genève University of Art and Design/Switzerland (HEAD-Genève) for inspired and discerning students. This year – Jérémy’s second collaboration with the school – included a Workshop programme that required students to reinterpret tortoiseshell colour from Mazzuchelli – the renowned Italian acetate manufacturer. Eva by Eva Gaumé (above) was the winning student with her dynamic, bold design in tortoiseshell and luminous crystal. Her successful creation is now part of the TARIAN + Head collection. www.jeremytarian.com

The Actor by Monoqool
The Actor by Monoqool

Scandinavian design is acknowledged for its purity, clean and distinctive style. Monoqool handsomely achieves translating that heritage into eyewear with 3D designs crafted in Denmark, in super lightweight polyamide. The shape of a bicycle inspires The Actor in trendy Marsala red  – a fashion colour to appreciate. www.monoqool.com

Pamela by Didier Voirol
Pamela by Didier Voirol

Glitter and shine dazzles on eyewear this season, and Swiss designer Didier Voirol translates his magical skills as a sculptor into frames. Contemporary shaping in metal highlights Pamela (above) sprinkled with tiny rhinestones that brighten your eyes, face, and perhaps perspective! Discover more Didier Voirol designs at www.metalartconcept.com

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Yokko by Face à Face Paris
Yokko by Face à Face Paris

The Face à Face collection for 2017 procures inspiration from Oriental Art Deco concepts. Advanced technology and geometric lines – in aluminium and bronze with enlightened colour accents – bring vigor and individuality to Yokko. www.faceaface-paris.com

See the complete list of inventive eyewear designers presenting in Zurich this weekend – 2nd-3rd October – at www.hallofframes.ch JG

Hana by Kirk & Kirk

The lightweight acrylic collection by Kirk & Kirk sees new entries for the Paris show this weekend. The modified cateye glasses ‘Hana’ – a bubbly “out-there” shape for women – is to make an appearance in a new fresh Violet shade, with dual tone crystal effect – light and dazzling on the face. Acrylic remains one of Kirk & Kirk’s hallmark materials, offering incredible comfort and lightness as well as different, daring colour options. All the styles which are made exclusively in France, can be ordered with an Asian bridge fitting as required. See the full selection at www.kirkandkirk.com CN

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Anna-Karin Karlsson at Bergdorf Goodman

Swedish designer Anna-Karin Karlsson presented her luxurious eyewear collection at Bergdorf Goodman, New York City’s illustrious fashion emporium. Karlsson’s individualistic, charismatic frames were among the highlights of the Fashion Week experience.

“I love Bergdorf Goodman and I am thrilled that their team is so very adventurous and fashion forward to carry my work. Such a joy to do my in-store visits and events a couple of times a year and meet the lovely staff, and the folks that have enough confidence to wear my work.” Anna-Karin is photographed (above right) with Linda Fargo – the dynamic senior vice-president fashion and store presentation. www.annakarinkarlsson.com www.bergdorfgoodman.com JG

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Paris notes: what’s coming?

Bold colour, edgy eye shapes, a mix of exotic combinations and favourite touches of retro….the new trends are emerging as SILMO approaches at the end of the week. The show promises cool eyewear designs by a selection of the leading independent designers who set the agenda for creative trends and artisan quality at an international level.

They include Danish brand Ørgreen who present innovative ophthalmic and sun designs in a campaign by Casper Sejersen. The frames appear on models in a cold, concrete environment where solid surfaces and clean lines resonate simplicity and functionality. Each exclusive design offers the minimal edge of an Ørgreen design with a new colour scheme that embraces the opportunity of innovative finishes in slick titanium. Further details: www.orgreenoptics.com

SoupCan Collection 2.0 by Tavat
SoupCan Collection 2.0 by Tavat

Based on its masterful award-winning Soupcan design, Tavat launches “TAVAT SoupCan Collection 2.0” – a new extra light edition with pantos and round shapes available in “all-metal” or “combination” versions.

In this new series, TAVAT strives to reinterpret its brilliant design for every-day, all-day wear whilst staying close to the original. SoupCan 2.0 “C” features all acetate temples allowing for more adjustment and has removed a lot of material to give the overall aesthetic a more refined look. The adjustable nosepads and optional clip-on with melanin lenses makes the design ultra-wearable and suitable for all men and women. www.tavat-eyewear.com

Zero 11 by Finest Seven
Zero 11 by Finest Seven

British luxury label Finest Seven return to Paris to unveil new sunglasses in their luxurious heirloom collection known for its pristine elegance and well-tuned production which results in a great blend of lightness and design. www.finestseven.com

Götti Switzerland
KOT by Vue DC
KOT by Vue DC

Timeless and breaking with convention, acetate model Kot from Vue DC shows energy and impact in a characterful shape, highlighting a brilliant upbeat combination of red and black. Made in France, the statement frame is also available in black and white, and two single colours with a polished/brushed finish. www.vuedc.fr

Akiko 2 by Face a Face
Akiko 2 by Face a Face

Sometimes classical with a refined colour palette is the most elegant and desirable choice for an eyewear wardrobe in the winter months. Akiko 2 by Face à Face draws its creative inspiration from the expressive qualities of Japanese ‘manga‘, displaying true elegance in its unique assembly of circles and arches. It demonstrates technical flair using a single nylon thread instead of screws. The lightweight aluminium in matt colours adds the exciting contemporary feel. www.faceaface-paris.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from Friday 23rd-26th September at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit www.silmoparis.com CN