September 2016

Forup by Fleye

Eyewear technology harmonises elegantly in the sleek, new collection from Fleye in Denmark. Carbon and coloured wood handsomely fuse in designs to achieve frames with an expressive material mix, superbly crafted. FORUP in supremely light carbon is united with coloured Platan wood in a gorgeous shade of Indigo Blue. Fleye will present their innovative concept, and other distinctive designs at Silmo in Paris 23rd-26th September at Villepinte. Discover the philosophy and beauty of Scandinavian eyewear style by Fleye in Hall 5/E124. www.fleye.dk JG

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Carefree & confident designs

“Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn” Orsen Welles

Eyewear style has evolved over time, and nowadays designers are manifesting creativity, originality and craftsmanship with distinctive identity and individuality. Suzy Glam – designed by Susanne Klemm – is among the new wave of eloquent creators who is transforming frames into ever more intriguing achievements. At Silmo, Suzy Glam will launch Limited Edition sunglasses that will be produced for only fifty fortunate wearers – worldwide. Glitters (above) combines daring, elegance and refinement. www.suzyglam.com Photo by Aisha Zeijpveid in collaboration with Judith Veenendaal.

Cello by Bellinger
Cello by Bellinger

Danish design is symbolic with uncluttered, innovative products that embrace high quality, attentive and defined details – all resulting in quite the style statement. The latest Bellinger eyewear collection possess all those attributes, plus beautiful shapes and colours. Cello (above) is the epitome of refined, elegant and contemporary elements. www.bellinger.dk

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Corsair Parajumpers by Coppe-Sid
Corsair Parajumpers by Coppe-Sid

Eyewear inspiration is derived from many sources – with history and aviation the foundation for frames in the Parajumpers Collection by Coppe-Sid. The American fighter aircraft Vought F4U Corsair, which was in service during World War 11, sparked the dashing, streamlined Corsair sunglasses (above), that are carefully handcrafted in Italy in acetate and metal, with a double bridge that is spot on trend. www.coppeandsid.it

Nielsen by SALT.Optics
Nielsen by SALT.Optics

Bold, impressive and high performance: Nielsen – chic and sophisticated in marbled grey acetate – is among the stunning new designs in the SALT. Optics Collection. Premium crafting, beautiful materials, meticulous details, and gorgeous colours feature in all SALT. designs. www.saltoptics.com Visit SALT. at Silmo Hall 5A G134. All the brands noted here will be presenting their collections 23rd-26th September at Villepinte. www.silmoparis.com JG

RVS Hand Made Eyewear

Vintage overtones with the introduction of painted elements by watercolourist San Siguenza are eye-catching highlights of a new RVS x San Siguenza collaborative sunglasses collection launched in New York this month. Tia, one of two pieces in the special edition is eloquently configured to show the exotic hand-painted colours of a watercolour of Madonna – created as a hologram for a performance during the singer’s 2015 Rebel Heart World Tour.

The link-up between Vidal Erkohen and painter San Siguenza represents the first eyewear edition by RVS produced in Japan. Erkohen, who set up the label in Turkey in 2007, and originally produced hand-finished designs in his own artisan frame company  there, is now based in NYC. Passionate about imaginative design and authentic, handcrafted production methods, Erkohen has selected Japanese artisanal expertise to take the collection forward into a new phase for 2017.

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An RVS pop-up store is now open, and the big launch night is on 17th September at 312 Bowery, NYC. The collection for those who can’t get there goes online at www.rvseyewear.com on 30th September. CN

The past makes a lovely present

This delightful slogan appears on a shopping bag from the Wien Museum in Vienna Austria, and ideally relates to the 90th birthday of Oliver Goldsmith – the celebrated British Heritage eyewear company. Claire Goldsmith, the dynamic, resourceful, energetic and enthusiastic director, believes that “the best is yet to come. We fully intend to make the next decade more important than any other.” Claire (above) has graciously granted an exclusive interview to Eyestylist on OG’s potential insights and plans for the next decade…as they elegantly march towards their Centennial Anniversary.

Tortoise Split by Oliver Goldsmith
Tortoise Split by Oliver Goldsmith

In your opinion, why has vintage – eyewear styles from the 1950’s, 60’s etc. – continued to be so in demand? “They say out of adversity comes innovation, and the war years brought about huge adversity. What came off the back of that were decades of huge innovation in many walks of life. In the design world, everything from eyewear to car design and furniture to architecture – it’s all remained relevant from that period, and I think that comes down to what was going on in people’s lives at that time. Post war optimism and the feeling that anything was possible. Nothing had yet been done. Quite unlike how we feel today! Saying that, I see some designs coming out of new companies that I truly believe will stand the test of time themselves, and in sixty years from now will be hailed as vintage classics from 2016!

"I love the INGEMA - the feel of it"
“I love the INGEMA – the feel of it”

What are some of the differences between the OG frames created sixty-seventy years ago – and today? “To be honest we try hard to make no differences. There are some things like lens technology which has come a long way with improvement. We also have access to things like hypo allergenic hinges – but we make them in the old pinned hinge style! The Oliver Goldsmith brand is about clean and classic styling, and I don’t see us straying from that. The old saying ‘they don’t make ’em like they used to!’ does not apply to Oliver Goldsmith.

The OGLE "handmade in England to order...but watch this space."
The OGLE “handmade in England to order…but watch this space.”

Are you planning any special celebrations or events for the 90th Anniversary of OG? “We have had a great year doing small events around the world to mark this special birthday, but as we draw closer to the completion of that year, we are focused on the new decade ahead of us. As a 4th generation Goldsmith heading up this side of the business, I want to ensure that the next ten years in the lead up to the company’s centennial celebration, we create and produce some collections which show that we still set the standard. We have so much planned already in terms of design and development of a new collection called OG DECADES. But I can’t say any more about that right now. We also have tonnes of new treatments planned for the much loved OG ICONS collection – a bunch of characters in their own right. The OG FAMILY collection is also continuing to grow with new relatives joining the line up each season. So really the message is let’s start the new Decade! 100 here we come!”

What is your favourite OG frame and why? “That’s like asking which of my children I love most! I have a couple of favourites: I love the Y-NOT because it’s just a total statement frame and it’s so OG! I love the OGLE – but we have never put it into production. Its only ever been handmade in England to order. I might consider it for ready to wear – watch this space – but I LOVE this frame. I love the INGEMA – the feel of it. It’s got 3-dimensional hand built temples. It was originally made for Michael Caine in the IPCRESS FILE. It’s another design that has only ever been handmade in England to order.”

OG: Goldside Editions Lord sunglasses
OG: Goldside Editions Lord Sunglasses

This month Claire launches the stunning OG: Goldside Editions – with two defining designs from the family archive – Manhattan and Lord. The Limited Edition of only 500 pieces will be made in raw black and gold, with flat gold flash mirror sun lens – to mark the end of one OG decade and the start of another. Happy 90th Birthday Oliver Goldsmith! Discover more at www.olivergoldsmith.com JG

Smoke x Mirrors: eyewear with artistry and attitude

Smoke x Mirrors – the New York label that launched last year – is the creative endeavour of two cousins: David Shabati and Roi Ironi (above). Roi tells Eyestylist how they started their business.

Please give a brief history of how Smoke x Mirrors was created? “It started in Mexico when I lost my glasses. I went out to replace them, but couldn’t find anything I liked – it all looked the same to me. After this, I couldn’t help but to explore, and that’s when I recognised the lack of innovation in the industry, and the white space waiting to be tapped into. After working in the watch business, a very traditional industry from a manufacturing standpoint, I saw eyewear as an opportunity and vehicle to really express creativity, and push technology to reach the desired design level.”

Smoke x Mirrors GeoII
Smoke x Mirrors GeoII

How would you describe the fashion concept and philosophy of Smoke x Mirrors? “We approach eyewear as a means of fashion innovation. Outside of our core collection, we release diverse, radically different capsule collections, and collaborations that don’t necessarily adhere to a set identity – that’s where the name comes in. It gives us the freedom to play and experiment with design, to push boundaries on the technical and aesthetic level. ”

Artful geometrics: GeoII
Artful geometrics: GeoII

What is the customer profile – and consumer marketplace – of the Smoke x Mirrors frame wearer? “Our glasses are genderless and ageless. Simply put, my girlfriend and my father wear the same frames.”

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As newcomers to the eyewear industry – what are the biggest challenges so far? “The classic industry is not relevant as it is today, but is undergoing a seismic shift that we’re set to lead.”

Double bridge sunglasses with a difference: GeoIII by Smoke x Mirrors
Double bridge sunglasses with a difference: GeoIII by Smoke x Mirrors

In the next three years, how do you foresee Smoke x Mirrors developing your own identity, and distinguishing your brand in the eyewear business? “In terms of identity, time is not relevant – whether’s it’s now or in three years, we’ll still be Smoke x Mirrors.” www.smokexmirrors.com  Smoke x Mirrors will present their latest capsule collection – GEO –  at Silmo in Paris 23rd-26th September. www.silmoparis.com JG