The New York eyewear scene continues to see a healthy surge in creativity and directional trends. This month sees the launch of yet another newcomer called SpiltMilk Eyewear, set up with the creative input from the NYC based designer Vidal Erkohen (RVS Eyewear). Made in Japan, with focus on quality standards and innovative design concepts with a global inspiration, the collection is proposing some experimental ideas “to represent the conjunction between fashion and culture” and builds from a high-energy colour palette – on point for SS19.
In the mix for the launching collections of sunnies are designs that combine two shapes in one (Bali), a super round shape with inner rim connected with an open wire mesh (Bora Bora), a detailed aviator statement piece (Maldives) and a narrow elongated trendy wire form that is slightly upswept – in chic combos such as lime with scarlet and pastel pink with black (Phi Phi).
The new brand has been under development since 2017, and is owned by Saif Ghobash (London) and Judge Khanna (NYC) – a New York based accessories designer. Spilt Milk launches its first sunglasses collection at the end of October and goes online shortly at www.spiltmilkeyewear.com. CN
Mondelliani’s colourful readers will be a breath of fresh air for any one who has tried to find reading glasses that offer a distinctive look and lively colour. The designs are inspired by the shapes of the “roller coaster”, and in keeping with Mondelliani’s passion for beautiful colour and original tonal combos, the frames comes in some gorgeous two-tone colorways as well as cool camo colours or distinctive black and white.
All the models in the line include high quality lenses (5 strengths available) or high quality sun lenses, and the aim is to offer a comfortable and wearable – slightly cheeky – design – at a sensible and practical price point. Mondelliani is a Rome-based eyewear brand with several collections of sunglasses and eyewear styles inspired by creative and unusual themes – including wine, birds and fish. For more information on their Ottovolante readers, visit http://mondelliani.it/ottovolante-2/?lang=en CN
The award winning Austrian label – Rolf Spectacles – excels in moving beyond barriers to create new possibilities and horizons. When the company launched, Tyrol woods were crafted into superb quality frames. Then there were unique designs in stone, and luxurious buffalo horn frames. For their latest eyewear adventure, Rolf has launched a Titanium collection with fresh innovations.
The Titanium Skyline Collection includes sixteen designs for prescription glasses, and six sun styles. Technical engineering is evident with intricate detailing, so finely optimised, and the frames are amazingly slim and light. The glasses are made with only three major components, so therefore, highly flexible, as well as sturdy. Finishes are smooth and sleek, or beautifully textured.
Rolf stated: “Our mission is to follow our vision, to create new things never seen before, and to set new trends while remaining true to our roots.” For more information on the distinctive Titanium Skyline Collection – visit www.rolf-spectacles.com JG
Internet brands are booming, and in sports-oriented sunwear there is now a confusing mass of online only brands selling direct to the consumer, with just a handful working that little bit extra to offer a balance of affordability, functionality, and, importantly, attentive customer service.
In the sports/leisure segment, Sungod Custom Optics – a start-up based in the UK and Verbier, Switzerland, has launched a customisable sunglasses collection – with a team of hard-core sports personalities endorsing the designs on Instagram including Stephanie Ede (duathlete/cyclist), Max Rowe (freestyle windsurfer) and Tom Bishop (triathlete).
The process of purchasing the product itself is different, quite fun, for the novelty, and super fast. You choose a shape (all quite standard), select the colours of the front, temples, lenses and logo icon – according to your personal preference – and then buy. The order – once processed, is with you within a couple of days (in my case 48 hours – the frames are assembled in the UK) and offers a Lifetime Guarantee promising that all breakages will be repaired – or fully replaced – free of charge. My first order included the Custom SIERRAS and the Custom Classics – both standard shapes, in one size, but just working ok for my smallish face shape and my son’s, who is 15. (Above: Custom SIERRAS).
UV protection is the key feature, and beyond that the sunglasses perform as a hard-wearing option for sports and outdoor activities at a realistic price (from £65.00) – this is of course significantly lower than equivalent all-round sport styles by Ray-Ban and Oakley.
For technical content, the 4KO Lenses are made from a 2mm Polycarbonate Core and you select from 5 lens tints that offer enhanced contrast and optimised clarity – the tint we selected in “smoke” was comfortable in bright conditions. Polarised versions are also available and judging by the number of water sports enthusiasts featured on the Instagram page, the lenses are adaptable and suitable for water sports.
The frame itself is made from the company’s Adventureproof Frame Material – this is a memory polymer – designed for durability, protection and high flexibility. It’s as good as any standard sports sunglasses material coming from China and it feels light and modern and pleasant to the touch. The colours are classic and easy-to-wear and a popular look for youngsters and the teen and 20+ market.
Sungod Custom Optics produces sports-oriented sunglasses and sports goggles. They have also launched a special signature series of models in collaboration with Pro Team Athletes including Hannah Whiteley and we expect to see more exciting projects from their young entrepreneurial team. For more details visit www.sungod.coCN
Creative highlights from this year’s Paris eyewear event
There’s one thing we are always in search of at the international eyewear event, SILMO: and that’s innovation with a clearly defined creative or technical achievement in the construction, design or overall concept. This year the stands were loaded with forward-thinking design work and original collections, for the most part, with a strong infusion of interesting colour, exquisite tonal and material combinations, and increasingly daring shapes – which sat alongside very minimal pared back collections where the focus is clearly on lightness and comfort.
Key shapes included elongated cateyes and new 90s-inspired ovals, but the shape story is not confined to these statement looks and we found many geometric forms, octagonal or hexagonal shapes, and a strong trend for complex shapes or constructions that require accomplished design tricks with layering, cutting and colour. Above: a new collection by FACE A FACE with imagery which explores the phenomenon of Synaesthesia. The frames play with contrasts of colour and materials, taking inspiration from the world of fine art.www.faceaface-paris.com
Ørgreen’s state-of-the-art Quantum collection saw the addition of the first Sun styles – a brilliant collection of 5 unisex, male and female designs, with futuristic cases fitted uniquely with the specific form of two of the statement styles.
Pictured above, 3.11 is one of the statement pieces among the designs: an oversize sun style for women which takes strong visual inspiration from the classics of the 1970s – a key theme at SILMO. The low bridge contrasts with large rectangular tinted lenses recall acetate frames from a bygone era, while the titanium and polyamide material add an urban and modern touch. 3.11 is available in three refreshing colours contrasting frame and lenses – from Black/Gun with an amber hue lens to Red Wine / Gold with a light grey and bronze tinted lens. www.orgreenoptics.com
Exceptional handcrafting in precious materials is always a highlight at the fair. From the Netherlands, Alexanian has a devoted following of customers who look for craftsmanship and luxury refinement in rimless and full rim designs created to perfection in solid gold, and in many cases studded boldly with jewels, on frame and even nose pads. The frame with a sculptural detail on the rim above in their new collection is inspired by watches and comes in white gold and 18kt gold. www.alexanian.nl
French eyewear creativity is well represented across the fair, and a handful of young designers are following the traditional spectacle making techniques making use of classic materials and features. The classical style was beautifully conveyed at Meg Eyewear, a label that produces frames in Oyonnax. The designs, specifically for women, offer high quality and sophisticated elegance in ‘sober’ iconic colour tones. www.megeyewear.com
Designers have also paid much attention to the effect of layering rims in different colours or materials on the front of the frame, to play with light and structure. A super example is the Theodore by SALT. Optics, where the round titanium rim features a delicate crystal inner rim in acetate. www.saltoptics.com
Also in our highlights this year is Portrait Eyewear, run by a young delightful brother and sister team, based in Milan, with a genuine passion for art and eyewear. There new Glitch concept is based on the glitch-art movement most often related to video art and photography. The frame surface reproduces the digital and analog interference with an unexpectedly glamorous effect on the face. Find out more at www.portraiteyewear.com
ALERT! Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart will be held at Haus der Wirtschaft (above image) at Willi-Gleicher-Strasse 19, 70174 Stuttgart, commencing Saturday 13th October from 11h00 to 18h00; and Sunday 14th October from 10h00 to 16h00. www.hausderswirtschaft.de
The 2018 edition of Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart takes place in a uniquely historical building with royal connections – and warmly welcomes guests seeking energised state-of-the-art eyewear. Located in the centre of Stuttgart, Haus der Wirtschaft was built at the end of the 19th century as an exhibition centre and museum, and was opened by King Karl I in June 1896. The elegant structure was fortunate to survive the bombing of WW2, and has been updated with caring diligence – and great awareness of its long history. Independent eyewear artisans will introduce their latest collections that include superlative designs in beautiful materials, enhanced with – and highlighting – cutting-edge technology, with original colourations.
The ingenious engineering in Von Arkel’s Calibre 4 Outline designs is a masterpiece of fine detail and the resplendent polishing on the frames is borrowed from the meticulous craftsmanship of watchmaking. www.vonarkel.com
In the Blackfin autumn collection stylistic innovation reigns with sleek cat-eye shaping in titanium and beta-titanium in Sunnyside – blending design sophistication and interplays of technology. www.blackfin.eu
Andy Wolf, the Austrian label, will be in Stuttgart to show their minimalist White Heat design collection that incorporates a divergence of materials and balanced proportions. www.andy-wolf.com
Handmade in Germany, Matze Marpe will present contemporary optical designs in acetate and stainless steel. www.matzemarpe.de
RESERVE THESE DATES for Die Brillenmesse Stuttgart – and the stunning venue – Haus der Wirtschaft – 13th and 14th October – for artisan eyewear from participating – and passionate – independent labels. www.diebrillenmesse.deJG
Fashion permeates the air in Paris as shows regale with exciting new perspectives in clothes and accessories. Silmo Paris salutes eyewear – with the annual event opening on 28th September. Tempting frames from international designers are on display during the four-day event at Parc Des Expositions – Paris Nord Villepinte. Creativity abounds: here is an advance peek at styles that will impress and delight. German model Toni Dreher (above image) wears a striking, bold design by Sol Sol Ito – the boutique Swiss brand. www.solsolito.com
The new Perspective Collection by Götti Switzerland highlights the interplay between segments of circles, reduced corners, and lines for pure avant-garde form. www.gotti.ch
Relaxed, laid-back California style: SALT.Optics beautiful designs are inspired by the fascinating Joshua Tree National Park. www.saltoptics.com
French artistry, exotic colourations, and beautiful materials characterise the collections of Plein Les Mirettes. Handcrafted in the French Normandy countryside, the frames express individualism and unique details. The voluptuous acetate silhouette in Demoiselle 12 in marbled tones is among the latest designs from the stylish boutique label. Plein les Mirettes will present the entire collection at SILMO Paris 28th September-1st October at Paris Nord Villepinte. Explore www.plein-les-mirettes.fr JG
Zack Tipton is the founder of VINYLIZE Eyewear – the only high-quality independent frame brand to create iconic sun and optical designs from old records – and CINEMATIQ, a collection that features old film footage inside the frames. He lives with his family in Budapest, Hungary.
Producing eyewear from vinyl has had its own peculiar challenges, but over the years, through perseverance and hard work, TIPTON Eyeworks has achieved much success since the first vinyl prototypes were created in 2000. Today the team and their artisans work out of an impressive established boutique and studio in central Budapest and boast an enviable and extraordinarily diverse list of VIPS wearing their designs – both in and outside the music + film industries. Their most recent limited editions were produced for Lana del Rey and Kendrick Lamar for the summer festival Sziget: https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/08/vinylize-for-lana-del-rey-kendrick-lamar/
Asked to reflect on his most exciting career moment so far, Zack refers to their constant efforts to make customers happy, which has driven him from the very beginning. He tells this story with pride and humour. “We had launched our Erotic Cinematiq collection which featured frames decorated with strip tease movies. It was selling like hot cakes and an order came in from London for a custom piece to feature details of male strippers. I wasn’t able to get suitable film for the delivery date so I improvised taking selfies with an old SLR camera and some reversal film…we used this footage for the Cinematiq design and that is the piece that Elton John is wearing.”
As well as the main collection Vinylize – produced from old records – the Cinematiq line today continues to attract a new following. “We re-launched this line this year with a 10-piece collection in three colours. Like the original collection, this one uses film stills in the temples, but we have managed to hugely improve the quality. The film strip is now laminated which protects it and the temples hold the film securely. We will soon be offering film choices.”
“Tipton has always had recycling at its heart”
And as with many of the most creative and innovative of the independent labels in this industry, there is always something new in production, or a special collaboration underway. One of the latest at Tipton, in production when Eyestylist was invited to Budapest in May, involves Nespresso. “Tipton has always had recycling at its heart. Vinylize transforms old vinyl records into eyewear. Cinematiq uses old film strips. Recycling is one of the brand aspects Tipton is known for and this is why Nespresso approached us to make frames out of their recycled aluminium capsules. We have designed and produced a three-piece collection – available in four colours. The material for the frames is produced from their used capsules. A trial run was launched in May and the response was astounding. We expect to see it released for purchase from January 2019.”
Similarly, Vinylize has a link up with AC/DC in a special edition collection that’s fresh, young and already sported by some huge stars in the music business, including Shawn Mendes. This collection, along with other one-off -new editions, will show to international buyers at SILMO Paris this month. It’s already available in specialist optical boutiques, in Europe and further afield. “The expanding Vinylize x AC/DC is coming to Paris. We will also release our colored vinyl collection – and a very special CINEMATIQ edition with footage from the “The Godfather” and some vintage erotic film. It’s an exciting time!”
Tipton Eyeworks is located at Iranyi utca 20, Budapest 1056, Hungary. The showroom and studio welcome visitors to see how the frames are created. VINYLIZE Eyewear is available worldwide at selected stores and online at www.vinylize.com CN
SILMO Paris opens the doors to the latest fashion-savvy eyewear in just a few days. Ernest Hemmingway would agree – it is a feast…for the eyes! Eyestylist previews indicate that the collections will be a plethora of new discoveries in concepts; technology; materials; colours; and irresistible style. Savour the possibilities – and opportunities – and come explore new and beautiful eyewear.
The wondrous world of flowers inspires Lafont Paris as they launch the elegant Les Delicieuses capsule collection (top image). www.lafont.com
A dream come true for Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland with the release of Dimension Next Generation glasses with futuristic 3D printing for young people. www.gotti.ch
Streamlined and sophisticated: LINDBERG presents new elements infused into titanium eyewear. www.lindberg.com
A special Limited Edition in a variety of beautiful colourations is a highlight by Australia’s Jono Hennessy. www.jonohennessy.com
Sensational surprises at theo with Matali Crasset’s collection – Trait d’union – for the Belgian brand, radiant with colour in stainless steel. www.theo.be
A symphony of synergy, lightness and technical achievement hallmark the latest designs in the Line Art Collection by Charmant. www.charmant.com
SILMO Paris – the French eyewear fashion event of the year takes place at Paris Nord Villepinte 28th September – 1st October. Further details at www.silmoparis.comJG
Handmade eyewear, of our time: Patinated Copper with Aluminum Magnesium
Ti Kwa’s commitment to design innovation is increasingly recognised across the industry and in the upper echelons of the optical retailing community and he continues to quietly push the boundaries in his work in materials, textures and specialist production techniques, with resounding individuality and an unmistakable style.
This September, his label RIGARDS explores an exceptional copper material finish with a gently-toned verdigris in a model designed for avant-garde fashion designer Ziggy Chen (RG1911CU), based on an existing “small and narrow” shape in the collection that has come to be known as the ‘Mad Scientist’.
The finish, a tribute to Bronze Age ritual vessels and their weathered slightly mottled greenish tones, appears in a unique way in all the models as the copper takes the patina finish differently from frame to frame.
“We added an interchangeable clip-on,” explains the designer. “Made from ultralight aluminum-magnesium — it locks onto the frame front and converts the glasses from optical frame to sunglasses. Two small side holes hold an eyeglass chain, allowing the sun-clip to double as jewellery.” Both the glasses and the clip-on can be fitted with lenses through built-in openings, part of RIGARDS’ exclusive screwless spring-hinge mechanism designed to ensure the product is both aesthetically pleasing and maintenance-free.
RIGARDS (from Hong Kong) was first launched in 2012, and exhibited their handcrafted buffalo horn eyewear months later at SILMO, the Paris eyewear fair (see our first story in 2012 at https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/rg0006/ ). Designer Ti Kwa has a refreshingly different perspective on design and has gradually opened eyes to the possibilities in creating exclusive artisan pieces with a distinctive modern approach to production techniques and eyewear aesthetics. RIGARDS exhibits at SILMO (Paris) and Paris Fashion Week. Don’t miss this collection: https://rigards.com CN
Hall of Frames Zurich returns to its roots – the historical and refurbished location Papiersaal – that was originally an ageing paper factory – to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the show. Organiser Nathanael Wenger reflected: “During the years, opticians all over Switzerland have supported our event, even during different moves inside the city. The event grew slowly, but now we have over forty independent brands, some whom have been with us since the beginning.”
Wenger is particularly delighted that more and more Swiss designers have joined the show. Some are Newcomers – Baselli, Fassungswerk, Specs Lab and Nirvan Javan – while other brands are well established and include Götti, Didier Voirol, Einstoffen, and Von Arkel. “We are proud that these companies show their collections at Hall of Frames Zurich along with many other well-known labels,” said Wenger.
The two-day event will showcase unique eyewear brands featuring artisan quality, creative imaginations, and enticing styling. Koali by Morel Lunettes introduces stunning new optical and sun designs (above photo) in a collection that is rich in beautiful colourations and shapes. www.morel-france.com
German designer Anne Dickhardt creates fabulous bags…and innovative, fun and useful eyeglasses cases (above) in elegant natural materials, with a welcoming sense of humour. www.any-di.com
Blackfin’s latest collection is highlighted with new craftsmanship processes and stylistic features. A unique frame structure reflects masterful technology with Leven BF850 – an innovation that anchors the beta titanium bridge to the titanium rims. www.blackfin.eu
Hungarian brand Vinylize introduces sleek geometric shapes in octagonal, square and round variations. The Vinylize signature vinyl record exterior on Roach (above) is individualised with graceful sculpted temples. Handcrafted in Budapest. www.vinylize.com
Mark the dates – now! 7th and 8th October at Papeiersaal in Zurich for the 10th anniversary celebrations of Hall of Frames Zurich. Seize the moment and experience skilfully gifted eyewear collections – from long-time favourites – as well as new and talented independent designers. www.hallofframes.ch JG
Specialists in sustainable eyewear since 2010, EOE from Swedish Lapland is heading to Italy later this week (21st-24th September) for WHITE Milano, a highly regarded fashion trade fair for women’s collections and accessories. It’s the independent brand’s first appearance at the 4-day event which is known as a creative launch “pad” for new and rising fashion labels from around the world.
Among the EOE styles for the coming season is the model above – Eljest, representative of the simple yet distinctive style in this highly eco-conscious collection in eyewear. The styles are recyclable and biodegradable, produced in an acetate material that contains no petroleum or poisonous phthalates, and to top it off, use steel parts produced from a carefully sourced recycled Swedish steel.
EOE Eyewear was founded by Erik and Emilia Lindmark during a snowmobile ride in the small village of Ammarnäs in Swedish Lapland. Their vision, they explain, was to create eyewear that combined the elegance and simplicity of Scandinavian design, with the barren beauty of the nature in the north of Sweden. The brand is one to watch for 2019 when they will announce a new exciting step in their achievements in sustainability and eco-friendly materials. www.eoe-eyewear.com CN
WHITE Milano takes place at Via Tortona 27 – for further details visit www.whiteshow.it
In nineteen-nineteen, two brothers – Sidney and Percy Kirk – laid the foundation for a century of optical innovations and strategies that still inspires around the world today. The mantle is now carried with Jason and Karen Kirk (above) at the helm, as the Kirk dynasty celebrates its 100th anniversary. “This is an amazing moment; having seen everything that my grandfather achieved, and grown up in my parent’s practice, Karen and I are very proud to learn from the past to drive the future. This is about looking forward, as like the previous generations, we try to contribute to the next century of optics,” said Jason.
Karen reflected on the influence of Sidney and Percy: “It is easy to overlook how innovative the Kirk Brothers were as a company. Things that seem normal to us today were visionary in the 1920’s. For example: Kirk Brothers were the first to deliver glasses to opticians by motorbike courier to offer a better, faster service.” Jason and Karen will launch the Centena Collection at SILMO – celebrating the one-hundred year history, and they are now firmly focused on future development programmes. The frames are handcrafted in France with special Italian acrylic – a very light, yet strong durable material. The new designs are chunky and bold in 10mm acrylic, but featherweight and wonderfully comfortable.
Colour is always imaginative in Kirk & Kirk designs – and ten vibrant colourations bring additional beauty and character to the Centena Collection.With their innovative eyewear approach, and exploration of shapes, colours and materials, Sidney and Percy Kirk would indeed be very proud of the continuing family tradition.
At SILMO Paris, 28th September-1st October, Jason and Karen will present Centena designs, alongside the Kaleidoscope, Spectrum and sunglass collections. Warmest congratulations to Kirk & Kirk on their exceptional and memorable centennial anniversary. www.kirkandkirk.comJG
Italian eyewear brand Blackfin’s clean aesthetic is based around its expertise in materials, and particularly titanium. Its new entries for the coming season are refined and technical, employing complex craftsmanship, new technology and a special mix of modern materials to ensure great wearability as well as style. Along with contemporary all metal designs, that come in fantastic colours and tonal combinations (many new ones will launch in Paris this month), the brand is extending its Lamina Plus line where titanium is paired with an ultra thin cellulose acetate. Model Maryport (BF845 pictured in colour 915) is one of two new designs in this modern collection, offering a super light construction and a modified cat-eye shaping. The design is enhanced by the attractive patterned material which is likely to pair seamlessly with seasonal colours, textures and warm winter layers in the AW 2018/19 collections.
Blackfin is one of Italy’s fastest growing eyewear companies. The company’s new editions will be exhibited at the eyewear fair SILMO Paris from 28th September to 1st October 2018 – view the latest editions available through selected stockists worldwide at www.blackfin.euCN
The run-up to the international shows in Paris has begun. Eyewear designers exhibit at Silmo, Paris at the end of the month, an international trade fair that brings together some of the freshest new designers and start-ups as well as iconic established eyewear companies.
For trends, our previews point to a fastidious focus on excellence and finesse in all details of frame designs. Acetate and metal collections appear to be equally well represented, although some designers refer to an increase in metal for 2019. These designs, while they are more and more sinuous and shapely, they tend to come in a wide variety of shapes, with oversized being just as popular as more reduced proportions.
Highlights in our previews include L.G.R, the Italian luxury brand by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, who has some particularly strong new designs in metal and for Silmo, the special focus is on the development of the optical collection for the season ahead. An avant-garde direction is noted with careful attention paid to minimalist lines and metal colorations, with the introduction of a delicate, and slightly exotic copper finish. As trends go, it’s our favourite use of the colour in eyewear so far. www.lgrworld.com Pictured above: Tuareg in copper by L.G.R
At Claire Goldsmith, the latest CG Legacy releases take on a new direction by utilising the properties of stainless steel combined with Mazzucchelli acetate. Model Dean will be amongst the collections on show in Paris, “a solid light tint allows customers to make the choice of wearing the design either as a sunglass or an optical,” says the designer.
The light tint mirrors some of Goldsmith’s first ever ‘sun specs’ and the original glass lenses, which make a great addition to a wardrobe in the winter months. The Goldsmith stand will also feature OG Decades during the Paris fair, a collection of era-defining designs that represent the traditional values of the brand, combining that with a fresh and dynamic twist. www.clairegoldsmith.com / www.olivergoldsmith.com
An acutely design-focused buffalo horn collection from Delirious Eyewear (Milan) balances the natural colour effects of a classically luxurious material with a beautiful individuality and subtlety. This young award-winning artisan label – who also produce in other materials including metal, is moving in to the top optical boutiques worldwide, as one of the hottest emerging labels from Italy. More information at www.deliriouseyewear.com
Frame Chain – from the UK – always has something new and innovative and their latest chains are chic and delicate – with minute jewellery details such as freshwater pearls and Swarovski crystals. The female design duo – Vanessa Harrington and Ann-Margret Kearney – continue to shake up the eyewear accessories side of things across the fashion and optics industries (their collections are now in the top fashion stores worldwide) with designs that perfectly blend practicality and statement style. Meet this fabulous team at the fair and find out more about the chains at www.framechain.co.uk
A series of fresh collections by the Jura-based company MOREL – including their historic 1880 range, will highlight traditional French eyewear production at the Silmo exhibition in 2018. KOALI – the nature-inspired collection by MOREL, will release several new designs including this dramatic modified cat eye, sunglass style 20038K. Pink, gold and black are the tones highlighted in these designs which play with contrast and design accents behind the lens. Visit www.morel-france.com
Laura Imami, from the UK, exhibits at the fair in Paris for the first time. Her exclusive designs, which are made in Northern Italy, are, this season, inspired by architecture. Model Toska, produced in 8mm Mazzucchelli acetate, demonstrates a bold sculptural style with a faceted front, highlighted in a stunning colour mix. Other innovative designs require that the lenses are glazed into the front of the frame. Laura’s creative collection is currently available at Schuller Opticians in the UK where she is based, and at selected stores in Copenhagen and Berlin. www.lauraimami.com
Watch this space for exclusive Silmo updates / Silmo Paris takes place from 28th September 2018 to 1st October 2018. www.silmoparis.com CN
September is the harbinger of a new season – a harvest of back-to-school, cultural events…and the latest eyewear creations. Captivating shapes, in a host of intriguing colours – from subtle to sizzling – in technically advanced materials, ensure that eyewear for autumn is dynamic and stylish. ROLF Spectacles introduces a stunning new “Twist” design from their Evolved Collection (above image). Razor-thin sliced end-grained wood veneers are carefully selected and combined with each other. Crosscutting the tree trunk rather than cutting it lengthwise obtains the unique characteristics of the frame. ROLF’S individualistic collection will be presented at SILMO Paris 28th September-1st October. www.rolf-spectacles.com
JF Rey’s Parisian chic VOLTE FACE collection highlights exclusive Mazzucchelli acetate designs in beautiful patterns and colour palettes that are enriched with glittery accents. www.volteface.com
The autumn harvest is abundant with original concepts. Jeremy Tarian launches his superlative eyewear collection that unites his consuming passion for creation, and the memories and expertise of a childhood pleasure – working with clay. His striking designs are handcrafted in acetate in glorious colours reflecting the ceramic work. See the complete elegant, luxurious collection at SILMO Paris 28th September – 1st October. www:jeremytarian.com
Anna-Karin Karlsson’s slinky, seductive panther has a new look this season, artfully perched on a beautifully silhouetted voluminous shape in acetate. 24K gold plated accents and the graceful panther shimmering in Swarovski crystals, add to the glamour of Rose et la Roue. www.annakarinkarlsson.com
Berlin’s exclusive nightclub the Berghain – is the inspiration for the strikingly chic sunglasses by KBL. The nightclub located in a former power station. is famous for its long queues…and powerful security. Break the deadlock in KBL’s distinguished, dashing design – the Berghain. www.kbleyewear.com
Flowers of Denmark by Fleye Copenhagen pays tribute to Danish heritage with its beautiful collection inspired by Flora Danica – an iconic collection of plants from the 18th Century. Daisy is portrayed in subtle acetate patterns with shapely graphics. www:fleye.dkJG
The spirited, sensuous Bocca designs by Face à Face Paris are inspired this season by Surrealism – and effectively expressed in Bocca Mania 2. Surrealism was an important cultural movement in the 1920’s with art works that fascinated with unexpected and remarkable elements. The latest Bocca surprises with elegant, thin golden temples, that provide a sleek contrast to the generously sculpted acetate frame front. The temple tips are seductively enhanced with the distinguished Bocca shoe. Lyrical butterfly shaping is slightly pointed with a colourful accent indentation in contrasting tones to the frame. Luscious new colours as well – Bocca Mania 2 shown above in rich plum; also available in brilliant blue and black. Face à Face Paris will present the Bocca Collection and other dynamic frames at SILMO Paris – 28th September-1st October. www.faceaface-paris.comJG
Design trends are often influential in other disciplines, and the Decorex International fair in London – which highlights luxury interior design – specifically furniture, lighting, textiles and crafts – provides exceptional inspiration and insight into new directions and creations for the home. This year among the array of trends forecasted, details in line using inlays and marquetry in furniture take on a new contemporary aesthetic – and the typically astute attention to material mixes such as exotic wood and metal offers some very classy and refined design work across categories.
Above: Dhow monochrome 2×2 cabinet from Bethan Gray – showing at Decorex International Fair. The handmade Dhow collection features intricate use of marquetry on stained maple veneer with a stunning combination of solid brass. The collection is handmade to order in Muscat, Oman. Bethan Gray is a talented Welsh designer who combines luxurious natural materials with expertise in craftsmanship and technology. Find out more: www.bethangray.com
As is often the way, a similar interest in bold and graphic use of line has infiltrated the designer eyewear collections. In Studio 1 by Mykita, an art deco aesthetic meets functionalism for an aesthetic evoking the Fritz Lang classic. These particular models have a strong graphic look with fine, repetitive horizontal lines which join with round lenses. A sleek single or two-tone colour concept accentuates the 2-d quality of the sunglasses.
Inspired by the latest advancements in surface treatment technology, MYKITA’s Studio 6 uses a precision etching process to make ultra fine lines on the frame surface – the lines follow the exact contour of the frame and create a 3d graphic pattern. By combining metallic tones with matt solid colours the emphasis falls on a psychedelic effect, which evokes the optical illusion art of the 1960s. www.mykita.com
Similarly, exquisite inlays characterise the Stella’d Cocktail Cabinet by Zelouf + Bell – creating an exciting and eye-catching optical pattern that mixes a modern look and art deco with real artisan expertise. Zealouf + Bell – award-winning studio furniture makers – will also be highlighted at Decorex International. Visit www.zeloufandbell.com for further information.
The brand new model Hop from BOZ is an equally masterful design-focused frame from France. It’s unusual angular line superimposed on a circular eye shape is enhanced further with a very finely laser-etched pattern at the top of the double triangle creating an enchanting focus on linear detailing. www.jfrey.frCN
The leading interior design event – DECOREX International – takes place on 16 to 19th September at Syon Park London. Visit www.decorex.com for details and tickets.
Celebrity-endorsed frames don’t get better than this. Vinylize has a unique position in being the only artisan producer of high-quality vinyl eyewear – hand-finished in the beautiful city of Budapest, which has become a destination for film, art and music enthusiasts…and it’s putting their exclusive handmade designs in the headlines at international events across the city.
A new shape designed for rapper Kendrick Lamar features a rhodium plated sterling silver brow piece on the vinyl front and was commissioned by Sziget, one of the biggest multicultural music and arts festivals in the city. For Lana del Rey, a bold unisex octagonal design has been created by designer and founder of Vinylize Zachary Tipton, and both are presented in packaging that resembles an original box set, with exclusive cover designs in black and gold.
Vinylize launches the two new limited styles today (from 31st August 2018) and they are available in a limited production exclusively by emailing firstname.lastname@example.org. Vinylize/TIPTON Eyeworks is based in Budapest and sells their collections – which include CINEMATIQ – worldwide in leading optical boutiques. www.vinylize.com CN
There is still time to enjoy last minute summer fun and adventure before the season is over…plus beautiful autumn weekends often provide delightful opportunities to enjoy outdoor sunshine and events. No matter what the season, fabulous sunglasses enhance you – and your fashion attire. Vera Wang, who is synonymous with chic, glamour and elegance, has a new selection of sun designs that includes Farah – a frame that expresses all these characteristics. The voluminous, uplifting square shape and luxurious linear metal setting, are the perfect backdrops for little shimmering Swarovski crystals on the front and temple tips. Featured above in tangy Mint, the frame is also available in Apricot and Ebony. Farah is among the latest Vera Wang Sun Styles that include a variety of beautifully inspired shapes and colours. Explore more at www.kenmarkeyewear.comJG
“The language of flowers is non-negotiable” Vanessa Diffenbaugh The Language of Flowers
Flowers speak a beautiful, global language, and the latest FLEYE Copenhagen eyewear campaign Flowers of Denmark is meticulously aligned with flowering inspiration from the iconic Flora Danica – a collection of 18th century plants in the Danish kingdom. A Winter mood sets the elegant scene with flowers frozen in ice blocks. Annette Esto, Head of Design noted: “Our idea was to emphasise the plants and illustrate their intrinsic qualities, just like the iconic flora Danica illustrations from the 1700’s, only doing so from a very new perspective. In these still-life images taken by photographer Ida Emilie Risager, lies the inspiration for the rich and dense frame colours, as well as the structure and layering in our newest eyewear.” Top image: Ida Emilie Risager All Rights Reserved
The frames are superbly crafted in three categories: Carbon/Wood, Acetate and Beta-Titanium. The melting ice cubes with the cracked surface and layered edges in the photos is a reference to a new-layered bottom line of acetate frames with a bold, yet light shape.
The FLEYE Copenhagen Flowers of Denmark collection for men and women will be launched – and flourishing – at SILMO Paris 28 September-1st October with beautiful streamlined shapes in a gorgeous colour range. More details on award-winning FLEYE designs at www.fleye.dk. JG Campaign photos: Josephine Svane All Rights Reserved
On the streets of Manhattan, he was a familiar sight, his slim, lithe figure gliding skilfully amidst the raucous city traffic on his battered bike; trusty Nikon camera dangling from his neck. Bill Cunningham was an amazingly influential style authority and trend-spotter in the late 20th century. He was a beloved figure on the city’s streets, and in 2009, Cunningham was designated a New York living landmark. He captured the fashion icons of the day; attended museum openings and benefit dinners, in order to document the latest craze. When Bill Cunningham noted an item of fashion interest, headlines followed. (Photo above: Bill Cunningham on his bike – photographing Tziporah Salamon, 2011 Photo courtesy Antonio Alvarez)
Celebrating Bill Cunningham at the New York Historical Society is a wonderful tribute to his eclectic creativity, with a selection of objects, personal correspondence, photographs and ephemera that reflect his life and work. His career began as a milliner with stylish “Willian J” hats, as he described his label. On display at the museum is a beach hat – which even Cunningham described as “a bit outrageous.” His photography stint started in the 1960’s and for fifty years, he photographed and catalogued what New Yorkers wore on the streets. His favourite vantage point was 57th Street and Fifth Avenue – where gilded fashion emporiums Bergdorf Goodman, Tiffany and Bonwit Teller (until the latter was demolished) were certain to attract the “fashionistas” of the era, and Bill could capture the moment with his Nikon.
The New York Historical Society has acquired his iconic Nikon camera; the French workers jacket that Cunningham adored for its numerous pockets; and one of his many bicycles. It is estimated that he owned at least thirty bikes over the years; frequently the bikes were stolen.
A transplanted Bostonian, Cunningham evolved into the quintessential New Yorker, who was passionate about the city, art and politics. This touching tribute to Cunningham is a reminder of what a revolutionary he was at the time…and how much he is missed. Celebrating Bill Cunningham New York Historical Society Museum & Library through 9th September. www.nyhistory.orgJG
Urban cool is reflected in the latest optical metal designs – SoHo by JF Rey – that are enriched by the architectural, cultural and bohemian atmosphere of SoHo neighbourhoods. The frames are graphic, slim and very lightweight, and include sixteen different concepts in vivid colourations that draw on pop palates that enhance the contemporary design of the frames. Certain styles are also available in metal and acetate combinations in unexpected colourations. SH2005 (above) is superbly sleek in vibrant red with thin graphic lines. Visit www.jfrey.fr and discover more exciting styles from the Marseille brand. JG
Encouraging youngsters to value the importance of eye care and the benefits of quality frames can set the stage – and cultivates – a lifelong appreciation of fine eyewear. Artisan eyewear designers encourage this educational process by creating frames that children – and their parents – will approve. Most importantly – that kids will love to wear! With Back-to-School underway, there are impressive and “eye-inspiring” frames to kick-start the academic year.
A dynamic new launch is the beautiful collection by Sven Götti – Generation Next – featuring superbly-crafted 3D creations. Said the Swiss designer: “Creating a collection for children has been on my wish list for a long time. But I know that just doing a smaller version of existing frames is not enough. Selling eyewear to children has a lot to do with respect and responsibility, and it is so important that this will be a good experience. Plus comfortable fit and a cool look, so children have confidence wearing glasses.” Generation Next ticks all the right boxes with designs that combine fashion, fit, quality, and durability. Featured above: DUMU – a sleek little round shape mirroring a silhouette which both kids and parents love to wear. www.gotti.ch
The enduring beauty of tortoiseshell is stylishly interpreted by Lafont Paris in Cowboy – a contemporary form in acetate with trendy nuances. Designed for youngsters 7-12 years old, Cowboy is ideal for pre-teens and small faces. Lafont also has super selections for babies to three-year-olds, and children 4-7 years old. www.lafont.com
In Marseille, headquarters of JF Rey, children gather to participate in creative workshops (above) organised by designers, when they are creating frame designs for kids. The children are able to chose from diverse colours in acetate that brighten little faces, create their own motifs, and select shapes they like the best. www.jfrey.fr
Stylish, flexible, lightweight, adaptable, comfortable fit and fashion cred – LINDBERG titanium wire is the magical material for children’s frames by the Danish brand. LINDBERG Kid air titanium rim Lucas (above) is also hypoallergenic, perfect for young, sensitive skins. www.lindberg.com
Zoobug has a superb collection of lively, colourful designs that captivates children’s interest. These opticals were created by eye surgeon Dr Julie Le, who fully understands the importance of quality frames for children. ZB1027 features a timeless shape in acetate, for 7-12 year olds, with print sides for additional style pizzazz. Shown above in Raspberry, the frame is also available in dynamic blue or subtle candy floss pink. www.zoobug.com
Parisian Caroline Abram designs fun frames – Tetes à Lunettes – in a marvellous array of colours and shapes for youngsters 3-12 years old. Solid and two-tone colourations provide intriguing choices for young spectacle wearers. Explore more at www.carolineabram.com
Sabine B launched a charming collection of eyewear for kids with her innovative designs for mini be – frames with playful shapes including mini be cat’s (above) plus a gipsy theme frame, and round and rectangular shapes in neon tones. www.sabinebe.fr
Children frequently like to emulate what their parents are wearing, and clear crystal acetate designs are a perfect example by Very French Gangsters. www.veryfrenchgangsters.com JG
“If you wear spectacles then do it with panache and bravura” Oliver Goldsmith (Jewish Life, August 1966, from Top of the Optic Pops)
Bold style is not so new. Some of the standout designs of the past were thick-rimmed in the most conspicuous colours, contrasting with skin tones. In the 1960s, actor and style icon Michael Caine’s signature was undoubtedly his unmistakable Oliver Goldsmith spectacles. He has been much applauded for giving glasses a stylish reference at the time: while the era was literally bursting with creativity in eyewear his everyday classics and the way he wore them with assurance and ease – he had several 1960s Goldsmith designs – paved the way for a confidence in cool suave statement eyewear styling for men that remains to this day. Above: A Goldsmith classic: model Ingema in dark tort acetate – worn by Michael Caine on and and off set.
With so much history in its favour, the beautifully structured model Ingema worn by Caine (and several other jaw-dropping creations that turned into icons in the same decade) is back in the Oliver Goldsmith Vintage Archive Range, available as a special bespoke order. The OG store in London (All Saint’s Road, W11) is the best place to view the archive of styles available in this range and discuss styling and prescription needs. It’s a space that is packed with history….celebrity endorsement inspiration from the past, exceptional vintage designs and rare eyewear that you won’t see anywhere else.
Today the company is run by Claire Goldsmith, the great-granddaughter of Oliver Goldsmith and a designer in her own right, whose collection is also on show in the store, distinctive in its links with the family style and excellence in quality, with modern touches in colour and detail and keen pricing, with handcrafted frames in acetate from £230. For more information visit: www.olivergoldsmith.comCN
“While spectacles are a growing fashion phenomena, there are too many unattractive and unfashionable items in the eyewear accessory market,” says the owner of Diffuser, a Japanese independent label that is already a leader in its field at home in Tokyo. Masaki Hirose, formerly at eyewear brand Dita, questioned the situation and turned his attention to developing attractive, distinctive accessories designed for men and women with discerning taste.
Launched in 2012, Diffuser’s concept is to create a well designed set of timeless accessories – with more accessibility for men, in well crafted quality materials, including leather and silver. “We are offering customers the satisfaction of wearing a better product – at an affordable price,” says Hirose. “The range now includes glasses cords, eyewear cases and pouches and some small leather goods – all of them coordinating with one another.”
Diffuser designs are original and come in a tasteful colour palette which includes natural tan, navy and black, with gold lettering – well suited to luxury eyewear and classically focused yet in line with contemporary trends. The accessories are widely available in Japan and are stocked by a selection of handpicked optical stores worldwide including Milan Lunetier (Paris), Haute Eye (S. Korea) and Senses Optik (Hong Kong). For more information visit: www.diffuser-tokyo.comCN
Narrow golden temples and a brightly patterned front in acetate: the new PFB label from Barbados has a colourful entry for all occasions in model PFB 03, now in a hot pink/red (colour C2). The design is one of several in this chic collection designed to embody the Bajan spirit: warmth and individuality in a graceful and softly feminine frame with a high-tech finish including screwless hinges and a lovely lightweight feel.
Peoples from Barbados is the new line by Alicia Hartman, the owner/optician at EYE Q Opticians in Limegrove (Barbados). The frames are designed in Barbados and made in Japan. Coming soon to selected optical boutiques in the UK and US: www.peoplesfrombarbados.comCN