January 2018

#cfw: Ørgreen’s 3d printed frames

Copenhagen Fashion Week is underway, and as always, the Danish brand Ørgreen has something special to show. Its new 3d printed collection with Yuniku is presented in a spectacular design window by GamFratesi at the flagship store in Store Regnegade 1, a street that boasts some of the city’s most fashionable shopping destinations.

A unique installation for Copenhagen Fashion Week

Drawing attention to the exclusive customised collection which currently has 12 models in six colours, the GamFratesi installation takes inspiration from Pablo Picasso’s diverse and eclectic approach to portraiture, never rendering one face in the same way. The accentuated quirks of Picasso’s portraits—evident in the portrayal of his muses Dora Maar, Olga Khokhlova, and his daughter, May—work to celebrate the diversity amongst people: their unique shape, size, and spirit.

The installation at Ørgreen : inspired by Picasso, designed by GamFratesi

The partnership between Ørgreen and Yuniku is an extension of Ørgreen’s desire to provide diverse product range choices for a wider spectrum of consumers, always with respect to a Nordic aesthetic, and with an eye for the newest technological innovation.

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Meaning “unique” in Japanese, Yuniku celebrates the uniqueness of the human face with a special scanner that measures facial features. By taking the lifestyle of the consumer into account, lenses are individually designed while the frame is 3D printed around the individual’s visual needs, all in all matching vision, face and personal styling. More details at www.orgreenoptics.com CN

London’s 100% Optical: trending design

London’s fair at ExCel, 100% Optical, presented an array of new looks in eyewear, from designers and companies across the international frame and sunglasses business. The UK demand for individual glasses is growing, and astute independent opticians have realised the gains in searching for the less easy to find labels, offering creative shapes, innovative, technical frames and beautiful eyewear materials and  colours. Above: TAVAT Tactile: from Italy, an evolution in its timeless collection of fine acetate and metal/acetate combination designs. www.tavateyewear.com

Perret Schaad for Silhouette

Highlighted at the fair, Silhouette’s extensive launches for 2018 include a collaboration with Perret Schaad, representing a new re-craft of Silhouette’s iconic Titan Minimal Art frame for Spring/Summer 2018.

Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad, the pair behind the label, are best known for sleek, minimalist designs. For Silhouette, the resulting frame takes the form of a unique modified hexagon shape  – with cutout on the outer side of each lens -which embodies influences of architecture and geometric styling. Despite the dramatic angles, the design personifies the designers’ passion for minimalism and weightlessness. www.silhouette.com

Austin by Andy Wolf

The colour palette for 2018 encourages bold, exciting statements and 100% helped to highlight the very latest hues. Along with an array of new neutrals, we were impressed by the prevalence of the colour purple, which, with many other pastel tones from pale pink to baby blue and pistachio, is making a huge impression for the coming season. Fresh colour combinations were particularly lively at the independent labels we visited and tone-on-tone effects where lenses match the frame, were fresh and sophisticated. Above: Andy Wolf’s sunglass model Austin, in lilac. The lens tone blends with the frame hue: www.andy-wolf.com

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Butti Eyewear Cases, made in the UK

Protective, stylish cases are an important element in eyewear and the array of styles has become more creative and luxurious. Butti Eyewear Cases, a new British label, produces a refined slip case design with a hard protective layer and a silk lining, perfectly suited to modern tastes. A small leather tab releases the glasses! Made in the UK, the brightly coloured cases are produced in Italian leather with a smart lustrous finish. Butti made their first appearance at the 100% fair: find details at www.butti.co.uk 

This year, 100%’s excellent “Celebration of Vision” competition for RCA students offered a fascinating insight into the creative talent of the future in the UK. Two winners were announced this weekend: well done to Julia Hauss, (Womenswear – Fashion, Year 1), who designed frames based on children’s birthdays and the joy they bring, and Ely Cao, (Womenswear – Accessories, Year 1), who proposed “a gift from the crazy optician” – a box containing 94 imaginative multi-coloured modular eyewear pieces, “full of possibilities”. 

Next year, 100% Optical will take place on 12th to 14th January 2019. For further details visit www.100percentoptical.com CN

Jean-François Rey Le Cuir – JF2785- elegant, natural leathers

An elegant new collection – Jean-François Rey Le Cuir – is highlighted with beautiful natural leathers from select tanneries in Tuscany. The Marseille based brand – sold internationally – has launched frames with new shapes that are streamlined and stylish. The chic interplay of materials – as seen above in style JF2785 – is similar to a fine collage. Superb colourations in quality leather, plus vintage details, embellish the refined shapes. Explore more of the Jean-François Rey Le Cuir – and the JF Rey universe at www.jfrey.fr JG

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100% Optical: welcome to ExCel London

The 100% Optical fair takes place in London this weekend. Several new exhibitors were announced in the last week, including Blackfin from Italy, David Green from South Africa and Hemp Eyewear from Scotland… as well as the iconic brand l.a. Eyeworks, from California!

Blackfin will bring its state-of-the-art titanium collection, recently updated with new colours and elegant layered silhouettes that play with colour contrasts and a spectacular frame-on-frame effect. Above: Blackfin is known for its expertise in titanium production. The frame pictured is the award-winning ARC BF822. www.blackfin.eu

Ferris by l.a. Eyeworks

Also confirmed this week is the very latest collection from l.a. Eyeworks. The Los Angeles company has long had a successful presence in the UK at stores that include Jones and Co. (Manchester), Frames in the Lanes (Brighton) and Grey St Optician (Newcastle). Style highlights include colour expertise and characterful shapes: in cateye model Ferris the bespoke lens inserts create dynamic interplays of colour and pattern. Visit their stand and look at their new season colours at www.laeyeworks.com

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TAVAT “Tactile”

Tavat Eyewear, famous for the SoupCan design, returns to 100% from their HQ in Italy, to unveil the “Tactile” models in London, designs which focus on a timeless, tasteful aesthetic whilst offering the ultimate in functionality and design precision. The four new acetate shapes have a 3-step minimal hinge design and unusual pin-stripe laser treatment, forming a pattern inspired by the design of Italy’s famous ‘Riva’ boat. Find out more at www.tavateyewear.com

100% takes place at ExCel in London from 27th to 29th January. For more details and a list of the final confirmed exhibitors visit www.100percentoptical.com. We wish everyone an excellent visit to London! CN

#PFW: Alain Mikli x Alexandre Vauthier

Parisian eyewear designer Alain Mikli and haute couture designer Alexandre Vauthier have today shown an edition of avant-garde eyewear captured through the lens of Mert & Marcus on British fashion icon, Kate Moss. Above: Moss wears model Roselyne

Model Edwige jeweled, worn by Kate Moss

The collaboration includes four styles: Edwidge, Edwidge jeweled, Roselyne, and Nadége that appeared on the runway at the Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture show today at Paris Couture week, with much comment.

Since the launch of his Haute Couture range in 2009, Vauthier’s luxurious and futuristic fabrics, Parisian savoir-faire and vision of the female body have ensured his creations have seduced clients around the world.  CN

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Photography credit: Kate Moss wears the Alain Mikli x Alexandre Vauthier Edwidge jeweled and the Roselyne in Noir Mikli with Swarovski Crystals and Grey lenses.