Fashion permeates the air in Paris as shows regale with exciting new perspectives in clothes and accessories. Silmo Paris salutes eyewear – with the annual event opening on 28th September. Tempting frames from international designers are on display during the four-day event at Parc Des Expositions – Paris Nord Villepinte. Creativity abounds: here is an advance peek at styles that will impress and delight. German model Toni Dreher (above image) wears a striking, bold design by Sol Sol Ito – the boutique Swiss brand. www.solsolito.com
The new Perspective Collection by Götti Switzerland highlights the interplay between segments of circles, reduced corners, and lines for pure avant-garde form. www.gotti.ch
Relaxed, laid-back California style: SALT.Optics beautiful designs are inspired by the fascinating Joshua Tree National Park. www.saltoptics.com
French artistry, exotic colourations, and beautiful materials characterise the collections of Plein Les Mirettes. Handcrafted in the French Normandy countryside, the frames express individualism and unique details. The voluptuous acetate silhouette in Demoiselle 12 in marbled tones is among the latest designs from the stylish boutique label. Plein les Mirettes will present the entire collection at SILMO Paris 28th September-1st October at Paris Nord Villepinte. Explore www.plein-les-mirettes.fr JG
Zack Tipton is the founder of VINYLIZE Eyewear – the only high-quality independent frame brand to create iconic sun and optical designs from old records – and CINEMATIQ, a collection that features old film footage inside the frames. He lives with his family in Budapest, Hungary.
Producing eyewear from vinyl has had its own peculiar challenges, but over the years, through perseverance and hard work, TIPTON Eyeworks has achieved much success since the first vinyl prototypes were created in 2000. Today the team and their artisans work out of an impressive established boutique and studio in central Budapest and boast an enviable and extraordinarily diverse list of VIPS wearing their designs – both in and outside the music + film industries. Their most recent limited editions were produced for Lana del Rey and Kendrick Lamar for the summer festival Sziget: https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/08/vinylize-for-lana-del-rey-kendrick-lamar/
Asked to reflect on his most exciting career moment so far, Zack refers to their constant efforts to make customers happy, which has driven him from the very beginning. He tells this story with pride and humour. “We had launched our Erotic Cinematiq collection which featured frames decorated with strip tease movies. It was selling like hot cakes and an order came in from London for a custom piece to feature details of male strippers. I wasn’t able to get suitable film for the delivery date so I improvised taking selfies with an old SLR camera and some reversal film…we used this footage for the Cinematiq design and that is the piece that Elton John is wearing.”
As well as the main collection Vinylize – produced from old records – the Cinematiq line today continues to attract a new following. “We re-launched this line this year with a 10-piece collection in three colours. Like the original collection, this one uses film stills in the temples, but we have managed to hugely improve the quality. The film strip is now laminated which protects it and the temples hold the film securely. We will soon be offering film choices.”
“Tipton has always had recycling at its heart”
And as with many of the most creative and innovative of the independent labels in this industry, there is always something new in production, or a special collaboration underway. One of the latest at Tipton, in production when Eyestylist was invited to Budapest in May, involves Nespresso. “Tipton has always had recycling at its heart. Vinylize transforms old vinyl records into eyewear. Cinematiq uses old film strips. Recycling is one of the brand aspects Tipton is known for and this is why Nespresso approached us to make frames out of their recycled aluminium capsules. We have designed and produced a three-piece collection – available in four colours. The material for the frames is produced from their used capsules. A trial run was launched in May and the response was astounding. We expect to see it released for purchase from January 2019.”
Similarly, Vinylize has a link up with AC/DC in a special edition collection that’s fresh, young and already sported by some huge stars in the music business, including Shawn Mendes. This collection, along with other one-off -new editions, will show to international buyers at SILMO Paris this month. It’s already available in specialist optical boutiques, in Europe and further afield. “The expanding Vinylize x AC/DC is coming to Paris. We will also release our colored vinyl collection – and a very special CINEMATIQ edition with footage from the “The Godfather” and some vintage erotic film. It’s an exciting time!”
Tipton Eyeworks is located at Iranyi utca 20, Budapest 1056, Hungary. The showroom and studio welcome visitors to see how the frames are created. VINYLIZE Eyewear is available worldwide at selected stores and online at www.vinylize.com CN
SILMO Paris opens the doors to the latest fashion-savvy eyewear in just a few days. Ernest Hemmingway would agree – it is a feast…for the eyes! Eyestylist previews indicate that the collections will be a plethora of new discoveries in concepts; technology; materials; colours; and irresistible style. Savour the possibilities – and opportunities – and come explore new and beautiful eyewear.
The wondrous world of flowers inspires Lafont Paris as they launch the elegant Les Delicieuses capsule collection (top image). www.lafont.com
A dream come true for Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland with the release of Dimension Next Generation glasses with futuristic 3D printing for young people. www.gotti.ch
Streamlined and sophisticated: LINDBERG presents new elements infused into titanium eyewear. www.lindberg.com
A special Limited Edition in a variety of beautiful colourations is a highlight by Australia’s Jono Hennessy. www.jonohennessy.com
Sensational surprises at theo with Matali Crasset’s collection – Trait d’union – for the Belgian brand, radiant with colour in stainless steel. www.theo.be
A symphony of synergy, lightness and technical achievement hallmark the latest designs in the Line Art Collection by Charmant. www.charmant.com
SILMO Paris – the French eyewear fashion event of the year takes place at Paris Nord Villepinte 28th September – 1st October. Further details at www.silmoparis.comJG
Handmade eyewear, of our time: Patinated Copper with Aluminum Magnesium
Ti Kwa’s commitment to design innovation is increasingly recognised across the industry and in the upper echelons of the optical retailing community and he continues to quietly push the boundaries in his work in materials, textures and specialist production techniques, with resounding individuality and an unmistakable style.
This September, his label RIGARDS explores an exceptional copper material finish with a gently-toned verdigris in a model designed for avant-garde fashion designer Ziggy Chen (RG1911CU), based on an existing “small and narrow” shape in the collection that has come to be known as the ‘Mad Scientist’.
The finish, a tribute to Bronze Age ritual vessels and their weathered slightly mottled greenish tones, appears in a unique way in all the models as the copper takes the patina finish differently from frame to frame.
“We added an interchangeable clip-on,” explains the designer. “Made from ultralight aluminum-magnesium — it locks onto the frame front and converts the glasses from optical frame to sunglasses. Two small side holes hold an eyeglass chain, allowing the sun-clip to double as jewellery.” Both the glasses and the clip-on can be fitted with lenses through built-in openings, part of RIGARDS’ exclusive screwless spring-hinge mechanism designed to ensure the product is both aesthetically pleasing and maintenance-free.
RIGARDS (from Hong Kong) was first launched in 2012, and exhibited their handcrafted buffalo horn eyewear months later at SILMO, the Paris eyewear fair (see our first story in 2012 at https://www.eyestylist.com/2012/11/rg0006/ ). Designer Ti Kwa has a refreshingly different perspective on design and has gradually opened eyes to the possibilities in creating exclusive artisan pieces with a distinctive modern approach to production techniques and eyewear aesthetics. RIGARDS exhibits at SILMO (Paris) and Paris Fashion Week. Don’t miss this collection: https://rigards.com CN
Hall of Frames Zurich returns to its roots – the historical and refurbished location Papiersaal – that was originally an ageing paper factory – to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the show. Organiser Nathanael Wenger reflected: “During the years, opticians all over Switzerland have supported our event, even during different moves inside the city. The event grew slowly, but now we have over forty independent brands, some whom have been with us since the beginning.”
Wenger is particularly delighted that more and more Swiss designers have joined the show. Some are Newcomers – Baselli, Fassungswerk, Specs Lab and Nirvan Javan – while other brands are well established and include Götti, Didier Voirol, Einstoffen, and Von Arkel. “We are proud that these companies show their collections at Hall of Frames Zurich along with many other well-known labels,” said Wenger.
The two-day event will showcase unique eyewear brands featuring artisan quality, creative imaginations, and enticing styling. Koali by Morel Lunettes introduces stunning new optical and sun designs (above photo) in a collection that is rich in beautiful colourations and shapes. www.morel-france.com
German designer Anne Dickhardt creates fabulous bags…and innovative, fun and useful eyeglasses cases (above) in elegant natural materials, with a welcoming sense of humour. www.any-di.com
Blackfin’s latest collection is highlighted with new craftsmanship processes and stylistic features. A unique frame structure reflects masterful technology with Leven BF850 – an innovation that anchors the beta titanium bridge to the titanium rims. www.blackfin.eu
Hungarian brand Vinylize introduces sleek geometric shapes in octagonal, square and round variations. The Vinylize signature vinyl record exterior on Roach (above) is individualised with graceful sculpted temples. Handcrafted in Budapest. www.vinylize.com
Mark the dates – now! 7th and 8th October at Papeiersaal in Zurich for the 10th anniversary celebrations of Hall of Frames Zurich. Seize the moment and experience skilfully gifted eyewear collections – from long-time favourites – as well as new and talented independent designers. www.hallofframes.ch JG
Specialists in sustainable eyewear since 2010, EOE from Swedish Lapland is heading to Italy later this week (21st-24th September) for WHITE Milano, a highly regarded fashion trade fair for women’s collections and accessories. It’s the independent brand’s first appearance at the 4-day event which is known as a creative launch “pad” for new and rising fashion labels from around the world.
Among the EOE styles for the coming season is the model above – Eljest, representative of the simple yet distinctive style in this highly eco-conscious collection in eyewear. The styles are recyclable and biodegradable, produced in an acetate material that contains no petroleum or poisonous phthalates, and to top it off, use steel parts produced from a carefully sourced recycled Swedish steel.
EOE Eyewear was founded by Erik and Emilia Lindmark during a snowmobile ride in the small village of Ammarnäs in Swedish Lapland. Their vision, they explain, was to create eyewear that combined the elegance and simplicity of Scandinavian design, with the barren beauty of the nature in the north of Sweden. The brand is one to watch for 2019 when they will announce a new exciting step in their achievements in sustainability and eco-friendly materials. www.eoe-eyewear.com CN
WHITE Milano takes place at Via Tortona 27 – for further details visit www.whiteshow.it
In nineteen-nineteen, two brothers – Sidney and Percy Kirk – laid the foundation for a century of optical innovations and strategies that still inspires around the world today. The mantle is now carried with Jason and Karen Kirk (above) at the helm, as the Kirk dynasty celebrates its 100th anniversary. “This is an amazing moment; having seen everything that my grandfather achieved, and grown up in my parent’s practice, Karen and I are very proud to learn from the past to drive the future. This is about looking forward, as like the previous generations, we try to contribute to the next century of optics,” said Jason.
Karen reflected on the influence of Sidney and Percy: “It is easy to overlook how innovative the Kirk Brothers were as a company. Things that seem normal to us today were visionary in the 1920’s. For example: Kirk Brothers were the first to deliver glasses to opticians by motorbike courier to offer a better, faster service.” Jason and Karen will launch the Centena Collection at SILMO – celebrating the one-hundred year history, and they are now firmly focused on future development programmes. The frames are handcrafted in France with special Italian acrylic – a very light, yet strong durable material. The new designs are chunky and bold in 10mm acrylic, but featherweight and wonderfully comfortable.
Colour is always imaginative in Kirk & Kirk designs – and ten vibrant colourations bring additional beauty and character to the Centena Collection.With their innovative eyewear approach, and exploration of shapes, colours and materials, Sidney and Percy Kirk would indeed be very proud of the continuing family tradition.
At SILMO Paris, 28th September-1st October, Jason and Karen will present Centena designs, alongside the Kaleidoscope, Spectrum and sunglass collections. Warmest congratulations to Kirk & Kirk on their exceptional and memorable centennial anniversary. www.kirkandkirk.comJG
Italian eyewear brand Blackfin’s clean aesthetic is based around its expertise in materials, and particularly titanium. Its new entries for the coming season are refined and technical, employing complex craftsmanship, new technology and a special mix of modern materials to ensure great wearability as well as style. Along with contemporary all metal designs, that come in fantastic colours and tonal combinations (many new ones will launch in Paris this month), the brand is extending its Lamina Plus line where titanium is paired with an ultra thin cellulose acetate. Model Maryport (BF845 pictured in colour 915) is one of two new designs in this modern collection, offering a super light construction and a modified cat-eye shaping. The design is enhanced by the attractive patterned material which is likely to pair seamlessly with seasonal colours, textures and warm winter layers in the AW 2018/19 collections.
Blackfin is one of Italy’s fastest growing eyewear companies. The company’s new editions will be exhibited at the eyewear fair SILMO Paris from 28th September to 1st October 2018 – view the latest editions available through selected stockists worldwide at www.blackfin.euCN
The run-up to the international shows in Paris has begun. Eyewear designers exhibit at Silmo, Paris at the end of the month, an international trade fair that brings together some of the freshest new designers and start-ups as well as iconic established eyewear companies.
For trends, our previews point to a fastidious focus on excellence and finesse in all details of frame designs. Acetate and metal collections appear to be equally well represented, although some designers refer to an increase in metal for 2019. These designs, while they are more and more sinuous and shapely, they tend to come in a wide variety of shapes, with oversized being just as popular as more reduced proportions.
Highlights in our previews include L.G.R, the Italian luxury brand by Luca Gnecchi Ruscone, who has some particularly strong new designs in metal and for Silmo, the special focus is on the development of the optical collection for the season ahead. An avant-garde direction is noted with careful attention paid to minimalist lines and metal colorations, with the introduction of a delicate, and slightly exotic copper finish. As trends go, it’s our favourite use of the colour in eyewear so far. www.lgrworld.com Pictured above: Tuareg in copper by L.G.R
At Claire Goldsmith, the latest CG Legacy releases take on a new direction by utilising the properties of stainless steel combined with Mazzucchelli acetate. Model Dean will be amongst the collections on show in Paris, “a solid light tint allows customers to make the choice of wearing the design either as a sunglass or an optical,” says the designer.
The light tint mirrors some of Goldsmith’s first ever ‘sun specs’ and the original glass lenses, which make a great addition to a wardrobe in the winter months. The Goldsmith stand will also feature OG Decades during the Paris fair, a collection of era-defining designs that represent the traditional values of the brand, combining that with a fresh and dynamic twist. www.clairegoldsmith.com / www.olivergoldsmith.com
An acutely design-focused buffalo horn collection from Delirious Eyewear (Milan) balances the natural colour effects of a classically luxurious material with a beautiful individuality and subtlety. This young award-winning artisan label – who also produce in other materials including metal, is moving in to the top optical boutiques worldwide, as one of the hottest emerging labels from Italy. More information at www.deliriouseyewear.com
Frame Chain – from the UK – always has something new and innovative and their latest chains are chic and delicate – with minute jewellery details such as freshwater pearls and Swarovski crystals. The female design duo – Vanessa Harrington and Ann-Margret Kearney – continue to shake up the eyewear accessories side of things across the fashion and optics industries (their collections are now in the top fashion stores worldwide) with designs that perfectly blend practicality and statement style. Meet this fabulous team at the fair and find out more about the chains at www.framechain.co.uk
A series of fresh collections by the Jura-based company MOREL – including their historic 1880 range, will highlight traditional French eyewear production at the Silmo exhibition in 2018. KOALI – the nature-inspired collection by MOREL, will release several new designs including this dramatic modified cat eye, sunglass style 20038K. Pink, gold and black are the tones highlighted in these designs which play with contrast and design accents behind the lens. Visit www.morel-france.com
Laura Imami, from the UK, exhibits at the fair in Paris for the first time. Her exclusive designs, which are made in Northern Italy, are, this season, inspired by architecture. Model Toska, produced in 8mm Mazzucchelli acetate, demonstrates a bold sculptural style with a faceted front, highlighted in a stunning colour mix. Other innovative designs require that the lenses are glazed into the front of the frame. Laura’s creative collection is currently available at Schuller Opticians in the UK where she is based, and at selected stores in Copenhagen and Berlin. www.lauraimami.com
Watch this space for exclusive Silmo updates / Silmo Paris takes place from 28th September 2018 to 1st October 2018. www.silmoparis.com CN
September is the harbinger of a new season – a harvest of back-to-school, cultural events…and the latest eyewear creations. Captivating shapes, in a host of intriguing colours – from subtle to sizzling – in technically advanced materials, ensure that eyewear for autumn is dynamic and stylish. ROLF Spectacles introduces a stunning new “Twist” design from their Evolved Collection (above image). Razor-thin sliced end-grained wood veneers are carefully selected and combined with each other. Crosscutting the tree trunk rather than cutting it lengthwise obtains the unique characteristics of the frame. ROLF’S individualistic collection will be presented at SILMO Paris 28th September-1st October. www.rolf-spectacles.com
JF Rey’s Parisian chic VOLTE FACE collection highlights exclusive Mazzucchelli acetate designs in beautiful patterns and colour palettes that are enriched with glittery accents. www.volteface.com
The autumn harvest is abundant with original concepts. Jeremy Tarian launches his superlative eyewear collection that unites his consuming passion for creation, and the memories and expertise of a childhood pleasure – working with clay. His striking designs are handcrafted in acetate in glorious colours reflecting the ceramic work. See the complete elegant, luxurious collection at SILMO Paris 28th September – 1st October. www:jeremytarian.com
Anna-Karin Karlsson’s slinky, seductive panther has a new look this season, artfully perched on a beautifully silhouetted voluminous shape in acetate. 24K gold plated accents and the graceful panther shimmering in Swarovski crystals, add to the glamour of Rose et la Roue. www.annakarinkarlsson.com
Berlin’s exclusive nightclub the Berghain – is the inspiration for the strikingly chic sunglasses by KBL. The nightclub located in a former power station. is famous for its long queues…and powerful security. Break the deadlock in KBL’s distinguished, dashing design – the Berghain. www.kbleyewear.com
Flowers of Denmark by Fleye Copenhagen pays tribute to Danish heritage with its beautiful collection inspired by Flora Danica – an iconic collection of plants from the 18th Century. Daisy is portrayed in subtle acetate patterns with shapely graphics. www:fleye.dkJG
The spirited, sensuous Bocca designs by Face à Face Paris are inspired this season by Surrealism – and effectively expressed in Bocca Mania 2. Surrealism was an important cultural movement in the 1920’s with art works that fascinated with unexpected and remarkable elements. The latest Bocca surprises with elegant, thin golden temples, that provide a sleek contrast to the generously sculpted acetate frame front. The temple tips are seductively enhanced with the distinguished Bocca shoe. Lyrical butterfly shaping is slightly pointed with a colourful accent indentation in contrasting tones to the frame. Luscious new colours as well – Bocca Mania 2 shown above in rich plum; also available in brilliant blue and black. Face à Face Paris will present the Bocca Collection and other dynamic frames at SILMO Paris – 28th September-1st October. www.faceaface-paris.comJG
Design trends are often influential in other disciplines, and the Decorex International fair in London – which highlights luxury interior design – specifically furniture, lighting, textiles and crafts – provides exceptional inspiration and insight into new directions and creations for the home. This year among the array of trends forecasted, details in line using inlays and marquetry in furniture take on a new contemporary aesthetic – and the typically astute attention to material mixes such as exotic wood and metal offers some very classy and refined design work across categories.
Above: Dhow monochrome 2×2 cabinet from Bethan Gray – showing at Decorex International Fair. The handmade Dhow collection features intricate use of marquetry on stained maple veneer with a stunning combination of solid brass. The collection is handmade to order in Muscat, Oman. Bethan Gray is a talented Welsh designer who combines luxurious natural materials with expertise in craftsmanship and technology. Find out more: www.bethangray.com
As is often the way, a similar interest in bold and graphic use of line has infiltrated the designer eyewear collections. In Studio 1 by Mykita, an art deco aesthetic meets functionalism for an aesthetic evoking the Fritz Lang classic. These particular models have a strong graphic look with fine, repetitive horizontal lines which join with round lenses. A sleek single or two-tone colour concept accentuates the 2-d quality of the sunglasses.
Inspired by the latest advancements in surface treatment technology, MYKITA’s Studio 6 uses a precision etching process to make ultra fine lines on the frame surface – the lines follow the exact contour of the frame and create a 3d graphic pattern. By combining metallic tones with matt solid colours the emphasis falls on a psychedelic effect, which evokes the optical illusion art of the 1960s. www.mykita.com
Similarly, exquisite inlays characterise the Stella’d Cocktail Cabinet by Zelouf + Bell – creating an exciting and eye-catching optical pattern that mixes a modern look and art deco with real artisan expertise. Zealouf + Bell – award-winning studio furniture makers – will also be highlighted at Decorex International. Visit www.zeloufandbell.com for further information.
The brand new model Hop from BOZ is an equally masterful design-focused frame from France. It’s unusual angular line superimposed on a circular eye shape is enhanced further with a very finely laser-etched pattern at the top of the double triangle creating an enchanting focus on linear detailing. www.jfrey.frCN
The leading interior design event – DECOREX International – takes place on 16 to 19th September at Syon Park London. Visit www.decorex.com for details and tickets.