2019

2020 collection watch: 5 emerging labels

Handpicked by Eyestylist.com: The start of a new decade is good reason to showcase our pick of the emerging labels in independent eyewear – from around the world. Here are five we think deserve special attention for their unique design approach, experimental character or dedication to research and genuine aspirations to produce good design with creative inspiration.

1. LAURENCE D’ARI, Antwerp, Belgium

Combining chic styling and made in Italy quality in sunglass designs for women, designer Laurence Bourguignon comes to eyewear having collected frames for most of her lifetime. Her unique style is beautifully represented in the sunglasses collection 2019, where oversized shapes with organic “wavy” details are proposed in beautiful minimal and classical colours with feminine grace. We look forward to seeing more from the brand in the next 12 months. See the Eyestylist 2019 post at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/chic-with-character-laurence-dari-antwerp/www.laurencedari.com

We Are Annu from Germany

2. WE ARE ANNU, Germany

The team at start-up We are Annu are inspiring, enthusiastic and quietly confident and with good reason. Their products speak for themselves – mixing technical precision, minimal design and comfort. They launched at opti in Munich in 2019 and since then they have grown quickly to a team of 18. Find out more at interview at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/12/we-are-annu/

Model Oceana in Watermelon

3. TYCH AND ISET, Los Angeles

The new collection by young designer Morganne Leigh – and specifically the Las Iguanas design – is one of the frames currently our wish list for 2020. Inspired by the flora and fauna of the Galapagos in the Pacific, this is a bold and beautiful statement range of sunglasses by a female creative to watch out for in the New Year. We happen to know there are exciting new things in the works. Find out more at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/the-galapagos-collection-by-tyche-iset/

VAERK no 301 in black

4. VAERK, Copenhagen

This new label from Denmark is getting good reviews for its balance of style and technical precision, proposing designs that have a lovely Scandinavian minimalist feel achieved in high-class materials such as carbon and stainless steel. The beautiful technical hinge is a collaborative design with industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen. See our first feature on Vaerk Copenhagen at www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/silmo-paris-notes-on-whats-to-come/ 

LIEN – gold eyewear accessories label

5. LIEN ATELIER, Hong Kong

Film director Jenny Suen has launched this new accessories label, designed exclusively for women. Determined to bring a fine jewellery style to the eyewear chain, Jenny’s first collection offers chains in 18K gold with pretty freshwater pearls. The chains are already stocked in some very unique fashion stores and opticians in Europe and Asia. Find out more at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/exclusive-lien-atelier-jewellery-chains/

2019: frames to remember

While anticipation rises in December for what’s to come, it’s also a good time to look back at what’s caught our eye…here are five frames by independent designers we think you’ll remember for some time to come. To see more of our selections visit our Reviews at https://www.eyestylist.com/category/reviews/

Kirk and Kirk have been flying the flag for colourful eyewear yet again in 2019 and their tones of hot pink and fuchsia or elegant sage (above, cat’s eye model Esme in the Centena collection in sage – https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/03/kk-expressive-video-centennial-celebration/) have helped pave the way for another brightly colored year of independent eyewear in 2020. Model Jasmine in the Spectrum collection was also a particularly outstanding statement design in eye-popping hot pink and we’ve spotted it in stores, far and wide. www.kirkandkirk.com

Delicieuse at Lafont Paris – the ultimate floral statement

Model Delicieuse by Lafont Paris was a memorable feature of the summer collections in 2019 with its incredible floral composition (see https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/09/silmo-spec-tacular/). Launched at the Paris trade fair in 2018, this artistic capsule line went on to enjoy much publicity and praise for its complex design and enamel and crystal treatments. www.lafontparis.com

Malina Sunglasses by You Mawo

You Mawo produce made-to-measure 3D printed frames with everyday qualities such as lightness and comfort and a style that is minimal and modern. Alongside the collection they produce some spectacular limited editions – Malina, from early 2019 (featured by Eyestylist at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/02/you-mawo-limited-edition-malina/) was inspired by the Inuits and has a narrow oval lens shape with eye-catching black Polyamide rim. Find out more at www.youmawo.com

Late 1970s punk influences at Kuboraum – Sid Vicious Capsule

Mask A1 ‘Pretty Vacant’ in the Sid Vicious Capsule is one of eight terrific, creative, rebellious frame designs decorated with safety pins, spikes, metal studs and stacked piercings, achieved through very committed artisan techniques and carving, burning and painting, turning the surfaces “into raw foundations of graffiti splashed walls” to echo the Sex Pistols’ lyrics. This Kuboraum collection is outstanding, good fun, and one of several series we’ve had an eye on this season. www.kuboraum.com

Bocca Song – FACE A FACE

Bocca Song is a titanium frame by FACE A FACE. The Bocca frames are well known for wearing shoes or boots, and on this occasion the boot design is achieved with a cut-out design. The detail makes a perfect companion to the double upper rim of the front which provides a flattering “airy” look when worn on the face. A truly unique design from Pascal Jaulent. www.faceaface-paris.com

To see more of our frame reviews in 2019, visit www.eyestylist.com/category/reviews/

Ones to watch at 100%, London – 2020 edition

By Clodagh Norton  – The 100% trade fair in London promises a huge display of eyewear collections in January, alongside the latest tech, lens releases and state-of-the-art optical equipment for opticians and optical practices. Their growing “studio area” for independent labels will welcome new additions for the 2020 show – among which the fair organisers highlight Coral Eyewear (www.coraleyewear.com), an eco-friendly frame producer, and Kaleos, the Barcelona brand offering innovative fashion frames at affordable prices. Above: model Pollitt by Kaleos – released this month in new colours. Find out more: www.kaleoscollection.com

Scenario by Ørgreen Optics

Titanium frames remain hugely popular this season and Ørgreen Optics will showcase some of their highly successful minimal modern styles – named after infamous rap tunes. The strong lines and contemporary details of these frames exude originality and freedom of expression. Find out more at www.orgreenoptics.com

Perspective Loop by Gotti Switzerland

Returning to the London show for 2020, Gotti Switzerland is one of the fair’s prestigious luxury exhibitors and a key innovator in eyewear design: their ultralight, minimal Perspective collection was launched in 2017 and has seen some original new editions including the Perspective “Loop” series (2019 launch) with delicate 3D printed matt polyamide rims – a must see at 100%. www.gotti.ch

Bolly Wool by Woow Eyewear

Woow is already a favourite French collection at 100% – much loved by the UK market for its bright quirky designs and creative colour combinations. The latest limited edition was the Bolly Wool capsule, inspired by “Bollywood” with Mandala patterns on temples and spiced-up tonal mixes of cardamom, saffron, mint and red pepper. Frames from the collection can be seen at www.wooweyewear.com

SALT. Optics from California: timeless design, quality construction

SALT. Optics is one of the most distinctive of the US brands attending the 100% fair for 2020. SALT. enjoys a strong relationship with the UK, with the ophthalmic and sun collections available at some of the most unique British independent optical retailers. Their latest designs will go on show at the exhibition, packed with wonderful classic shapes re-interpreted with modern elements and uplifting nature-inspired colours. Find out more: www.saltoptics.com

ERKERS
VAVA Eyewear
Orgreen
SALT.
Look
DIFFUSER Tokyo
Kayla by Lara D’

Lara D’ by Lara D’Alpaos comes to London from the Italian spectacle-making region of Belluno. The latest range includes laminated acetate frames characterised by clean, well defined lines and lovely colour combinations that offer a bold and fresh perspective for the New Year. Find our more at www.laradeyewear.com

100% Optical will take place from 25-27th January 2020 at ExCel exhibition centre, London. The event is exclusively for trade and showcases an overview of eyewear, lenses, optical equipment and business services. A selection of independent brands attend the event each year. A sustainability angle has been added to the fair in recent weeks. The organisers have promised to plant a tree in the name of every optical professional who signs up for the show between now and 8th January and who attends the show from 25th to 27th January, “to recognise and do something positive about the climate emergency.”

For more information visit www.100percentoptical.com – This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. All rights reserved.

Pantone colour 2020: Classic Blue

Poised. Self-assured. And elegant in its simplicity. Pantone also describes its colour of the coming year as multi-sensory, suggestive of the sky at dusk and reassuring in its qualities, while encouraging us to look beyond the obvious to expand our thinking.

In eyewear, blue has always held its own, across a spectrum of dark to light tones, from sky to indigo, and turquoise to lapis. Just because the classic blue is back on trend, all blueish hues are likely to see a revival or revamp, through mono, combo and gradient proposals, all of which will have a different style and look for the face. Above: acetate model Brian by Ørgreen Optics. For some of the acetate frames in this new line, colour designer Sahra Lysell says there are as many as three different tones in one single frame. The subtle colour pictured is called ‘Gradient Blue Sand Grey’. www.orgreenoptics.com

Get Hired by Woow Eyewear; a dark translucent blue in an easy mix with a hint of brown and a bright red temple tip

The new Get Hired frame at Woow proposes an artistic mix of tones with a translucent effect in the blue acetate. See more styles at www.wooweyewear.com

Lemon Curd by theo – Layer Cake series – an eletric blue with a dark blue inner rim

The Layer Cake series by theo is inspired by the sweetest desserts you can imagine, from Black Forest gateaux to Coconut Cream. The colour combinations subtly hint at the effect of the layers (as above in solid blue with a dark inner rim on the eye shape) or combine very different tones to ‘really stand out!’ Find out more at www.theo.be. Pantone’s colour of the year 2020 is 10-4052 / Classic Blue. By Clodagh Norton

Japanese designers: Ue-Shita by Padma Image

Padma Image, the Japanese independent eyewear line (which is yet to arrive in Europe) continues to inspire us with its asymmetrical spectacles and experimental design work which is always surprising, skilful and unique in presentation. The new “Ue-Shita” translates “Top and Under” – it combines the quirky style of the frame which has a half-rimless asymmetrical construction with bright colours and patterns inspired by the painter Ichiro Yamaguchi and his work TONE – recreated in the frame with care with a UV layered printing technique.

Artist Ichiro Yamaguchi’s work as inspiration –  TONE

Padma Image by young designer Meiji Hasui looks forward to launching in Europe shortly. Eyestylist has been following the brand since 2014. See earlier models at: https://www.eyestylist.com/2014/11/rotary-no-50/  https://www.eyestylist.com/2015/06/eyestylist-talks-to-yuuki-hasui/ – For more information: www.padmaimage.com CN

SALT.
OGI Eyewear
Res Rei
LEINZ
SILMO Paris 20-23 SEPT 2024
Orgreen
ROLF Spectacles