Hot again: bordeaux + burgundy + eggplant

Warm red wine tones, natural eggplant and deep bordeaux have returned to eyewear for the winter season. This flattering array of hues are an elegant lift for winter complexions and cold weather wardrobes, and an easy accompaniment to work or formal attire – and will spruce things up for everyday. Above: Falvin Eyewear, model Equator in matt amethyst with precious rose gold detail. An all-rounder (for work and weekends) where the purple amethyst colour looks beautiful with a touch of gold. An excellent accompaniment to gold jewellery and accessories. www.falvineyewear.com

Kirk and Kirk Centena – model Miriam

Style Miriam, in Bordeaux, is a newly released frame from  the British brand Kirk & Kirk; made in France it is produced in an acrylic material with a translucent quality that catches the light. The frame has been bevelled or “sculpted” on the edges which gives it a notable artisan finish. Find out more about the Centena collection by Jason and Karen Kirk at www.kirkandkirk.com

Wisdom by Caroline Abram

Parisian designer Caroline Abram combines colours in her new bold, feminine collection for winter, which highlights burgundy tones and chic shades of pink, adding hints of indigo, dark ruby and bright raspberry or fuchsia. For ophthalmic model Wisdom, the choices include burgundy/marsala (above) and indigo/purple, with the second colour in the pairing outlining the frame shape and providing definition at the brow. www.carolineabram.com

Lara D – model Kristel – black/bordeaux

Italian eyewear designer Lara D’Alpaos is also creative in her combinations of colours and layering effects. In the new model Kristel from the Unique Collection at Lara D’, she matches black with deep bordeaux as a  couture trim on a sumptuous statement cat’s eye that plays with art nouveau shapes and blocked 3d acetate. Find out more at www.laradeyewear.com

London street style: Winter 19/20

British brands highlighted: Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses, the iconic eyewear company, founded in 1926 and Covrt Project, a streetwear label launched in 2019.

In a London style focus by Eyestylist, we brought together two of the city’s finest street photographers with two British brands that define quality, individuality and eyewear attitude. Above: photographer @boyfromdagbon wears style Winston by Claire Goldsmith at Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses.  https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/winston/ Photography by David Nyanzi (@davidnyanzi) for Eyestylist.com

The new Gopas Winter Sun by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses – @boyfromdagbon photographed by @davidnyanzi

Model Gopas by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses is ideal for winter light conditions with lightly tinted sun lenses which remove the brightness of interior light or glare from the sun on a winter’s day. The style is derived from an aviator with a flattened top and angular silhouette. For further details or to buy direct: https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/gopas/

Covrt Project: style MP4 – @boyfromdagbon photographed by @davidnyanzi

Covrt Project’s MP4 from the _Mission One Sunglasses Collection defines this new brand’s ambition to balance innovation and a different design style with cutting-edge quality. MP4 is a hexagonal sunglass with a notable high double bridge and acetate bar. The design has undergone fine machine work to create the bridge and detailing and offers high-level functionality and comfort. This new label’s sunwear and accessories have launched at www.covrtproject.com CN

Mademoiselle by Delixs

The expertise of craftsmen and women in the Jura (France) is behind the elegant luxury 24k collection, Delixs – produced by Eyes Gold. The collection, which balances classical design with contemporary touches, has the makings of a best kept secret in luxury eyewear, and is already stocked by exclusive optical stores at home in France and further afield in Europe and Asia.

Released this season, the Mademoiselle model in the Timeless Collection is one of their most sought after frames, with a memorable blue finish and ostrich feather pattern – real feathers are inlaid in acetate. A narrow gold line defines the upper rim of the elegant oval eye shape, enhancing the luxury design.

Delixs styles throughout the Timeless collection are created with precious metals and French acetates and each one is hand polished with finishes in Gold, Pink Gold, Ruthenium or Palladium. Carl Zeiss sun lenses are fitted in all sunglass models. For more information visit www.eyes-gold.com

Morel and Nathalie Blanc collaborate

Two well-known French names in optics have joined forces in a new optical/sun collection for men and women, defining feminine elegance and a chic quintessentially French design style. The capsule ‘Morel par Nathalie Blanc’ brings together the traditional Jura-based eyewear producer, known for its technical expertise and production and Nathalie Blanc, a creative eyewear designer and former optician whose eponymous ‘independent’ label is now sold worldwide.

90002C – Morel x Nathalie Blanc, in brown with graduated effect

The designs in the capsule play with traits from Blanc’s style – features such as the rimless sections in the designs – illustrated in optical style 90002C, and subtle metal inlays on acetate adding minimal, super delicate structural elements (temples and nose bridges) for lightness and comfort. A colour palette of black and tortoise variants is interspersed with a fiery orange (sunglasses) and translucent blue or brown tones, and some refined graduated colorations reminiscent of painted water colours with varying intensity.

The new collection is now available in stockists of Morel eyewear. For details and to view the full collection visit: https://morel-france.com/product-category/morel-x-nathalie-blanc/ For more eyewear designs by Morel, visit: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/06/morel-collection-1880/

Monkeyglasses store, Copenhagen

Denmark’s first sustainable optician shop is now open

The Danish eyewear label Monkeyglasses has opened a flagship store in Denmark, as they celebrate 10 years in eyewear – placing complete focus on sustainability.

“We have created a flagship store where we can show the full potential of the market for sustainable products,” says Mai-britt Seaton, CEO & Designer. “In the store, our guests can experience a wide selection of  sustainable products: our frame designs in all the available colours, Zero Waste accessories made from surplus materials from our eyewear production, eco-friendly contact lenses and eyeglass washing kits with organic coconut soap and hand-tied washing brush. Our idea was to bring together a complete universe where environmental concerns are a given.”

Monkeyglasses store, Copenhagen – the plants were grown from cuttings given to the store by friends
Upcycled materials and design elements from the former building

The furniture in the shop is second-hand or has been built by hand by the Monkeyglasses team. The interior style is inspired by classic Danish mid-century modern with dark woods and sturdy metals, finished with a high level of craftsmanship. Modern touches come in the form of upcycled materials such as the scrap iron used for the counter and the former backyard gate (pictured above), repurposed for the design-office partition wall, preserving its patina, aged over many years by the Danish weather. For more information about the brand and the new store visit www.monkeyglasses.com  Photography by Robertsosis.dk – CN

Orris London introduces bio-acetate chains

Leading the way in modern bio-acetate accessories

There’s something about eyewear chains that has captured our attention over the last few years. Big brands and independent designers have re-worked their look in nice materials, and with jewellery details and decorative concepts that have turned them into a desirable must-have statement. Above: Brand new from Oriss London: Spaghetti chain in light Tokyo tortoise made from a biodegradable bio-acetate material

Eyestylist recommendation: the Spaghetti Chain in light Tokyo tortoise, light and beautiful to wear

At Orris London, the chic styling of the chains goes hand in hand with a focus on sustainable design and biodegradable materials. Their two chic new styles – previewed at Premiere Classe in Paris in September – are made of bio-acetate, comprising wood pulp and cotton fibre; the Chunky Chain possesses luxuriously oversized links, while the Spaghetti Glasses Chain is defined by a super-sleek silhouette and a completely new concept in styling – one of our personal favourites of the season.

Bio-acetate: Chunky chain by Orris London

About Orris London / Founder Tara Shen created Orris London after enjoying a career in fashion in Shanghai. A London College of Fashion graduate, Tara’s frequent travels in Europe and Asia inspired her to create beautiful, everyday accessories for modern living, work and travel.

As well as new bio-acetate chain styles, Orris London is committed to using recycled paper instead of virgin paper for stationary and wrapping tissues, as well as unbleached cotton for gift pouches. “We are always looking for ways to improve our eco footprint, and will continue to research new materials and technology for a more sustainable future,” says founder Tara Shen.

Orris London Chains are available at Liberty of London, Le Bon Marché in Paris, and online at www.orris.co.uk CN

Aviator sunglasses by FSLA + SALT. Optics

The unique, authentic design of aviator sunglasses continues to be attractive to men and women searching for timeless frames and excellent cover up from UV rays. Its iconic teardrop lens and minimal frame construction is an easy fit for most face shapes, and with so much choice in terms of colour and detail, it’s easy to find your go-to design.

For a luxe experience, the iconic thin rimmed metal design is hard to beat and we would always choose top-notch sun lenses and the most fashion-forward colours we can possibly find. Lens tones vary hugely in the aviator styles, from mirrors to very dark or very light “graduated” hues – so trying the styles is essential.

A design such as Francisco – part of a new collaboration collection by SALT. Optics and Fred Segal – focusing on elevating timeless basics – represents the ultimate “contemporary classic”. SALT. has taken the notion of timeless basics and gone back to the roots of hand-crafted eyewear using fine Japanese materials and working with third-generation Japanese artisans.

Francisco in brushed honey gold with rose lens tint in the SALT. + Fred Segal collab collection

This unisex style is beautifully crafted in titanium/beta titanium – premium metals that guarantees comfort and a smart, luxury finish and finesse, and the lenses are polarized CR-39, with a backside A/R coating to further reduce reflection. The style is also offered in black sand with grey gradient lens and silver with blue gradient lens (below).

Francisco in a silver finish with blue gradient lens

The FSLA X SALT. Optics capsule collection consists of three smart yet laidback unisex sun styles that come in three colorways and mix classic design elements with a retro vibe. The styles are now available at Fred Segal’s Flagship location at 8500 Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles, FRED SEGAL LAX as well as fine eyewear + optical locations worldwide.  Purchase online at: https://saltoptics.com/products/francisco-fred-segal-gold?_pos=5&_sid=549532105&_ss=r CN

UK: luxury eyewear at Clarke & Roskrow

The pretty town of Market Harborough has become home to one of England’s most beautifully restored optical boutiques in an historic 3-story townhouse. Statement colours, extraordinary attention to design details, the reintroduction of heritage features and a warm and elegant atmosphere: the renovation and refurbishment of Clarke & Roskrow took nearly 16 months from start to finish, and resulted in a stylish contemporary practice that rivals some of the UK’s most successful contemporary optical retail spaces.

An optician’s since 1974, Clarke & Roskrow, which the Clarke family bought in 2014, had an old-fashioned appearance, despite the historic building in which it was located. Anthony Clarke remembers his first ideas on how to develop it and create something quite new. “The practice was tired and the building was being under utilised, operating from two rooms on the ground floor.  I had an idea in my mind of how it could be transformed; something akin to a small, luxury boutique hotel, full of “period features” but with a modern and slightly quirky twist over several floors.  I wanted the new space to take inspiration from its heritage whilst simultaneously giving a clear indication of our new forward-thinking path.”

A contemporary colour scheme, inspired by the past

“I had to “think out of the box” to get 93feet interested in our project,” he says, on finding the right partners for the work, often a particularly challenging stage in a project of this scale. “I sent them a video of me and the interior, recorded on my iphone.  The next day I got a call from their designer Jim Butterell. The rest, as they say, is history!”

The restoration project and rebranding took place simultaneously. “For the building work, we approached several local building/construction firms. James Barby of Rockingham Construction had the “can-do” attitude and proven track-record of high-end finishes that we were looking for. 93feet understood what we were trying to achieve with the interior of the building and our “brand identity”, whilst Rockingham Construction were able to bring the design element to life, remaining true to the original design brief.”

A welcoming entrance hall at Clarke & Roskrow

The rooms are painted in bold yet warm heritage-inspired tones and feature an array of restored fittings from fireplaces to Victorian style ceiling coving, picture rails and authentic reclaimed wooden flooring. Contemporary Danish furniture is mixed with custom built pieces, designed and made by 93. Some eye-catching light fittings and works of art create an added finesse to each room where the luxury eyewear is displayed for customers to try on.

A relaxed and sunny space where customers can discuss styles and colours

“I wanted an environment that gave clients an experience, something memorable and quite different from a traditional optician’s. I am very pleased about the response that we have had from clients, the overwhelming majority of whom are thrilled with the transformation; of course I’m also delighted that our project won the Federation of Master Builders Award (Commercial Project, Midlands – June 2019).”

Today, focus is placed on exceptional eye care and a handpicked selection of independent eyewear brands, mixing well-known names with emerging labels. The selection this season includes LINDBERG, Maui Jim, Anne+Valentin, Leisure Society and the iconic eyewear collection from l.a. Eyeworks. Anthony Clarke takes the view that his clients deserve the very best choice in interesting, colourful independent frames, right on their doorstep.

Elegant fittings and vintage-inspired lighting

“If you want to sell beautiful and luxurious eyewear whether in a large city or small market town, you have to have an environment that reflects that,” says the owner. “The general public tend to assume that you’re a competent clinician, but we’re also judged on the quality of the products that we sell and increasingly, the experience that goes with it.”

18 Church Street, Market Harborough, LE16 7AA – For further information about the independent eyewear specialists Clarke & Roskrow visit www.clarkeandroskrow.co.uk Photography by Adam Fairclough. CN

Fabienne Delvigne, Royal Milliner

“Sublimating through difference”

Celebrating the 30th anniversary of her eponymous label, a new book is launched following the unique and fascinating journey of Fabienne Delvigne, Belgian entrepreneur and milliner. The book recounts the designer’s story and many commissions for members of the royal families of Belgium, Sweden and the Netherlands, professional women, or men “with a sense of style”.

La Petite Robe Noire – Paris

“All my clients have in common a love of beauty,” says Delvigne, whose extraordinary designs are produced according to superior traditional craftsmanship in the Maison’s Brussels boudoir workshop. The creativity and modernity with which they are carefully brought to life mean that they always remain a source of surprise.

“Fabienne is a daring woman who has more than one string to her bow and who has put her fiery lust for living at the service of her art. Fabienne is a true magician!” Diane Von Fürstenberg

Daytona hat – Square

The book itself – with outstanding forwards by Diane von Fürstenberg and Stéphane Bern, tells of the designer’s many bespoke commissions and one-off projects for Royalty. It also explains more unexpected work that Delvigne has accomplished  outside millinery, including a stand design for the Biennale Interieur in Kortrijk for the Carrières du Hainaut©, the largest producer of limestone in Europe. For further details about the new book which is published by Marot S.A. Bruxelles in November 2019 (for £59.99 euros) visit the e shop at www.fabiennedelvigne.be/eshop/sublimer-par-la-difference/?lang=en. For more information on the designer visit www.fabiennedelvigne.be CN

Fairplay by Lafont Paris – Reedition

The Reedition collection by Lafont Paris has special significance this year as the historic Parisian eyewear company  celebrates 40 years of artistic eyewear, design and colour. Since 1923, when Louis Lafont opened the first Lafont boutique in the French capital, Lafont Paris has produced classically chic eyewear designs conceived with artistic flair and passion for heritage, achievable through a combination of state-of-the-art manufacturing and traditional French craftsmanship.

Over the years the Reedition collection has highlighted some of the quintessentially iconic designs of each decade at Lafont. Fairplay, a new addition launched last month, is a reminder of the company’s expertise in metal, where classical design meets advanced technical precision and modern detailing.

A narrow metal structure with a square eyeshape, the frame expresses the meticulous refinement of the Lafont finish with a distinguished upper rim shaping and narrow temples integrating a small hinge mechanism with absolute precision.

Today Lafont Paris produces frames in acetate, stainless steel and titanium and is well-known for its expertise in fabric inlays and advanced applications in materials which include carbon fibre. Find more designs at www.lafontparis.com CN

Trends: black beauties

It really never went away. But with the resurgence in influences from the 1980s, 90s + 00s, a return of punk, grunge and gothic nuances, and the reemergence of specific iconic items from those decades including the classic black Dr Martens first created in the 1960s, consistently returning as a style piece, black eyewear is on cue to do particularly well in the next weeks and months, in many forms and with the quirkier of statements.

Part and parcel of the genre are the 1990s inspired narrow retro mask sunglasses, much hyped but always evolving thanks to some of the most creative designers in the eyewear business. Above: 90s style reimagined by Factory 900, Japan: model FA-380. Made in Fukui. For details: www.factory900.jp

A monochrome statement – restyling the cat’s eye: Saturn by Essedue, Italy

At Italian artisan label Essedue the inspiration is on the 80s with a nod to David Bowie and a chic “on point” style. Model Saturn, from the PRIMA line, has a strong round lens shape with pointed outer line in black, underscored with a white lower rim. Find out more at https://www.esseduesunglasses.com/product/saturn/

Mykita x Maison Margiela MMRAW016

Made of unpolished acetate, model MMRAW016 – in the Mykita x Maison Margiela collection comes in a Raw Black Havana with Black – illustrating that all types of finish and coloration based on black make up part of the season’s new looks. The panto-shaped optical frame with a raised bar highlights visible traces of the milling process, making each model slightly different from another. For more information: www.mykita.com

We have selected a few examples of the black styles now available for A/W 19/00. For more inspiration visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine.

Exclusive: Lien Atelier jewellery chains

At an impromptu meet in Paris, surrounded by luxury chain designs, more akin to jewellery than most collections we’ve come across, film director Jenny Suen tells me she found her first vintage eyewear chain at a flea market in Paris. She has worn it ever since as part of her signature look. “Over the years, so many people asked me where they could buy one,” she explains. “It occurred to me that there were no chains produced in fine materials or designed with the modern woman in mind. So when I finished my last movie, I decided to create my own.” Above: model wearing Coco (18K gold plated with freshwater pearls)

Launched this year, the debut collection is made with 18-carat gold and freshwater pearls, a tribute to the filmmaker’s/designer’s hometown of Hong Kong, a city known as “Pearl of the East.” Offering sleek lines evoking the city’s iconic skyscrapers, and a romantic modern feminine design, the three launch pieces are named after women for whom Suen has special admiration: Marguerite (Duras), Coco (Chanel), and Faye (Wong).

Lien Atelier chains

“Long associated with secretaries, forgetful grandmas, and stuffy librarians, Lien re- imagines the eyewear chain for the modern woman. Once a practical tool to keep optical glasses and sunglasses from the lost and found, the eyewear chain is now a statement-making piece of jewellery for visionaries who imagine, travel, and create….”

Lien Atelier is stocked at Kite Shoreditch (UK), Marc Le Bihan (France) and Kapok Sun Street (Hong Kong). The name “Lien” means “link” in French and Chinese.

About the founder: Jenny Suen is a Hong Kong director. She wrote, produced, and co-directed The White Girl with legendary cinematographer Christopher Doyle. The film stars Joe Odagiri and Angela Yuen in a tropical-noir love story set in the last fishing village of Hong Kong. It screened at festivals worldwide, including a world premiere at at the BFI London Film Festival, was nominated for a NETPAC award at the Taipei Golden Horse Film Festival, and had a special premiere at the Singapore International Film Festival, where it was lauded as an “accomplished first feature from Suen, [heralding] the coming of a new director with the potential to add truly unique offerings to the Hong Kong film canon.” Suen also produced Hong Kong Trilogy, a portrait of the city’s residents in childhood, youth, and old age, which was directed by Doyle. It premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival in 2015. Her next film will be a widely-anticipated Chinese remake of Vera Chytilova’s 1968 Czech New Wave masterpiece Daisies. For more details visit www.lienatelier.com CN

Eyewear directions: Hall of Frames

The popular annual eyewear fair Hall of Frames (Zurich, Switzerland) has issued imagery from its new season shoot which took place on site at Papiersaal over a sunny weekend in September. The frames featured include a mix of advanced materials, from  lightweight titanium to 3d printed designs, with state-of-the-art details, classically inspired shapes and interesting finishes and treatments. Above: Ørgreen Optics Coeda 964, produced in 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium. www.orgreenoptics.com Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Funk eyewear model Authari Raw in a crystal finish / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Dieter Funk’s acetate frames, produced in Bavaria, Germany, lean toward classic or timeless design principles, with modern updates taking the form of special colorations and material/tonal combinations. For more details: www.funkbrillen.com

Coblens: Endlos 7 rimless design

The Endlos series by Gmerna-based company Coblens combines titanium temples with modern rimless fronts; the frame front and sides are attached to the lenses with small antique inspired screws with a hexagonal shape. www.coblens.com

Ørgreen Optics: less-is-more in the Quantum collection

Quantum spectacles have an outstanding spherical hinge design and light construction in 3D printed polyamide. The innovative choice of subtle and bright colours is one of many highlights of the Danish brand’s eyewear expertise. www.orgreenoptics.com / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé for Hall of Frames: https://www.ninamariaglahe.com/All rights reserved.

The next edition of Hall of Frames will take place on 13th and 14th September 2020. For more details, visit www.hallofframes.ch CN

Beyond chic: minimal metals

The metal frames of the moment are a sign that 2020 will be another good one for a more minimal style in eyewear. In Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, the coolest metal frames worn out on the street were neither mini nor oversized, fitting the face to perfection with interesting shapes, angled or geometric forms (octagons and hexagons) in metal tones, and particularly shiny steel, gun and black. Above: fashion influencer Megan Adelaide Schaefer in a black metal frame photographed at Paris Fashion Week by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Optical chic: MMCRAFT011 by MYKITA + MAISON MARGIELA: a precious engraving is just visible to the naked eye on the bridge and temples

Very, very narrow rimmed frames – whether sun or optical, as above at Mykita, deliver a sharp yet simple style softened with the subtle vintage inspired engraving, in a successful blend of nostalgic and futuristic elements. www.mykita.com

Milan Fashion Week: stunning 3-sided metal rim frame

Clean, pared back designs with dark grey or black lens for sunglasses provide streamlined modes that are visual but less showy that in previous seasons with attention paid to craftsmanship and finesse for a simple unembellished but elegant way of dressing.

Monarch by L.G.R: a metal front with a striking cat eye form

Cat eye inspired metal shapes, such as Monarch by L.G.R (www.lgrworld.com), are contemporary and striking, balancing glamour and a feminine identity in the shape; the colours of the Monarch are in line with the minimal mood and include matt copper (above) matt black and grey with flat zero base sun lenses made from mineral glass for 100% UV protection and comfort. For more on trending styles, visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/paris-fashion-week-ss20/CN

 

Guo Pei couture for Fashion in Motion

20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion – Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion, the V&A will be hosting a presentation by the acclaimed Chinese couturier Guo Pei. Famed for designing Rihanna’s yellow gown worn at the 2015 Met Gala, Guo Pei is one of China’s most spectacular designers, dressing celebrities, royalty and the style icons for over 20 years.

Fashion in Motion: Guo Pei will be the designer’s first ever show in the UK and will showcase looks from her AW 2019/20 Alternate Universe Couture collection inside the museum’s iconic Raphael Gallery on Friday 1st November 2019. Above: Guo Pei ‘Alternate Universe Fall-Winter 2019/20 – coming to #FashioninMotion at the V&A

Guo Pei: creative couture – ‘Alternate Universe’

Fashion in Motion is the V&A’s key fashion event enabling anyone to take a seat on the front row. Providing a platform for both established and up- and-coming designers, the regular series presents free-to-attend runway shows for the public and has previously featured Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Yohji Yamamoto.

Guo Pei first presented her Alternate Universe collection at this year’s Paris Couture Week. The collection is based on the idea of a new universe where light and darkness co- exist, angels and demons sit next to one another and magical creatures creep out of the shadows. Combining the use of pineapple hemp fabric, Lafite embroidery and her signature three- dimensional embroidery techniques, the collection conjures up vivid images of mystical creatures from a different realm. Drawing inspiration from myths, fables, religious texts and the beauty of natural life, animal and insect motifs feature heavily throughout the collection, from the monkeys of Aesop’s Fables to the poisonous snake which lured Eve to steal the forbidden fruit.

Details: decorative Chinese embroidery

Guo Pei has established herself as one of the most inventive designers working today. Showcasing the finest of traditional Chinese craftsmanship while incorporating contemporary innovation, her designs take inspiration from myths, legends, architecture, and her cultural heritage. Free tickets will be released for the catwalk events from 21st October 2019 at

https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/fashion-in-motion-guo-pei CN

Matali Crasset X theo: Dialogues

Creative energies are running particularly high at theo this year, in preparation for 2020. SILMO saw an ingenious spread of collections, among them a fresh collaborative series – the third of its kind for theo – with designer Matali Crasset. ‘Dialogues’ explores conversation and chat, with focus on the two eyewear basics – the lens and whatever goes around it; how the two interact together or relate beyond the classic ‘glasses’ form becomes a feature and a “talking point” – without constraint in the construction or the technical finesse (of course!). Above: Model Debate, in fluo pink, by theo X Matali Crasset

Model Talk – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

“The shape of the lenses is radically different from what Matali has created before” theo eyewear

Expressive, comfortable, surprisingly easy to wear. The result is six titanium styles with Crasset’s “signature” which bring a unique focus to the eyes of the wearer. Single colours emphasise the drama of the openwork and “floating effects”, exploring a bold vision, in theo style – with exquisite tones of fluo pink and orange through to sophisticated monochrome black or white – the two colours that Crasset wears herself.

Model Gossip – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Dialogues by theo X Matali Crasset was launched in Paris in September 2019; the frames will shortly become available in theo opticians worldwide. The collaborators have simultaneously launched ‘Blurred’, an even more ‘rebellious’ limited edition related to the Dialogues designs and created solely in black and white.

Matali Crasset is an industrial designer from France.  She has become known for a refusal of pure shape in her work and develops new typologies articulated around principles such as modularity, appropriation, and flexibility. She has worked on far-reaching projects in different disciplines and with leading brands including Alessi, Nodus and Le Buisson. For more information visit www.theo.be / www.matalicrasset.com CN

The Galápagos Collection by Tyche & Iset Eyewear

A fresh, luxury sunglasses collection, produced in premium materials from young LA-based female designer Morganne Leigh takes inspiration from the Galápagos Islands and its untamed flora and fauna. Highlights include model ‘Las Iguanas’ a timeless, unisex oval shape with creative details that simulate the textures and features of the islands’ most prominent lizard species.

“The Marine Iguana species can only be found on the Galápagos Islands. It is the only lizard species on Earth that lives on land, but swims in the sea to forage and feed on algae. Through evolution, it’s snout has been perfectly formed for this task; this inspired our nose bridge shape.” Morganne Leigh, Tyche & Iset

Details: Las Iguanas with signature music note temple charm and sculptured nose bridge

Her third unique collection to date, Leigh has a fresh, innovative touch in eyewear design and an experimental creative vision, coming from other arts disciplines and having trained as a painter and graphic designer. The new collection is a beautiful representation of her work, with details and finishes that are subtly tied to the magical natural volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean.

A participant of the Elaine Gold Launch Pad Program 2018-19, the designer recently won the prestigious emerging designers award with the CFDA and Accessories Council (a USA award) gaining new funding to further execute new ideas toward technology, sustainability, and innovation for her brand which she first launched in 2014. For further details on her new Galápagos styles at Tyche & Iset, visit https://www.tycheandiset.com/collections/the-galapagos-collection.For previous features on Eyestylist with Tyche and Iset visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/04/feminine-for-s-s18-4-unique-designs/ CN

Motown history: The Esther by Vinylize

Vinylize has launched the Hitsville U.S.A. Sunglasses collection, designed by the Budapest brand and launched for the Motown 60 Weekend, a Detroit event that marked its diamond anniversary this year.

“One of our favorite customers is Dr. Joe Ales of the fantastic Birmingham, Michigan, OPTIK eyewear store. And one of his customers is Brian Stevenson, a high-powered Detroit marketing consultant who works with the Motown Museum”, explains Zack Tipton on how the parnership came about. “Brian spotted Vinylize at OPTIK and realized that making glasses out of Motown vinyl to help commemorate Motown 60 was a fantastic, synergistic idea.”

The Esther and the Chairman, Limited Edition models from Vinylize

The brand has created two cool vinyl models, The Esther and The Chairman limited to 100 pieces per model. Vinylize is giving 20% of sales from The Hitsville U.S.A. Sunglasses Collection to support the Motown Museum Expansion plan. “This will go towards growing the museum – already a must-see destination for visitors to Detroit – into a 50,000-square-foot world-class entertainment and education tourist destination,” they explain. “When it’s completed, the museum will have a transformative impact on the surrounding Detroit neighborhoods, providing employment, sustainability and community pride.”

Vinylize is a Budapest brand run by husband and wife team Yulia and Zack Tipton. Their frames are produced in Hungary using old “unwanted” vinyl records. The label is unique in the eyewear industry in the use of the material and has strong ties with the music industry worldwide through collaborations and special editions produced for events such as Sziget (Hungary). For more information visit  https://vinylize.com – Find OPTIK eyewear store at www.optikbirmingham.com CN

Paris Fashion Week SS20

A little less sunshine (and fewer sunglasses on the street) but just as beautiful as ever, Paris Fashion Week’s street style looks were bold and breathtaking or deeply influenced by tradition. In eyewear, a sincere love and respect for heritage and classic couture was evident across the city with vintage designs and clean architectural shapes in muted tones being most popular with all generations. Above: Anna Dello Russo wearing an oversized mask in black. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Russian Model Alina wears thick rimmed tortoise sunglasses with leopard print

The cat’s eye continued to enjoy a spectacular showing at Paris, as in London and NYC – with all versions, from small and sleek to large or elongated worn by women – and increasingly, men too.

Elongated cat’s eyes: @kandelissa @mikhaelkale – Photo by Gennaro D’Elia

The elongated and sharply pointed cat’s eyes worn by many celebrities are still in vogue with the darker colours remaining the most elegant trend-driven statement for a striking finish or unique look – above, worn by Jessica (@kandelissa) with Mikhael Kale (SS20).

Leila Depina #PFW in small round sunnies

Metal frames have really taken off with a few particular shapes such as small rounds and ovals doing well. Our sightings of these styles indicated that this trend is strong and still growing.

Caro Daur : Valentino – photo by Gennaro D’Elia

With less rays throughout the week there was a chance to catch some models and influencers in glamorous glasses. Caroline Daur (influencer, blogger and entrepreneur – www.carodaur.com) wore a classic black cat eye with head to toe Valentino for the @maisonvalentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN

Silmo Paris: notes on what’s to come

Silmo is a key event in the optical fair calendar where we discover innovations, new directions and trends in eyewear for the season ahead. This year, the breadth of creative proposals was significant, and attendance by independent labels showed a strong movement toward individual design, high level production and experimental work and expertise in colour, materials and eco-oriented design.

At Silmo, Tavat Eyewear showed their new avant-garde SpamCan Collection, the next step on from SoupCan, inspired by the quadratical shape of the iconic spam can or tin. Made from an impressive material composed of bronze, zinc and nickel, this new departure is highly technical and elaborate, with 27 components and a hinge based on the high-precision Swiss watch crown mechanism. The sunglasses are fitted with melanin sunglass lenses. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.com

Metamorphosis by You Mawo

You Mawo’s showpieces at Silmo included the Metamorphosis 3D printed Limited series and a visor design (above) with futuristic 3D side pieces. The main line has also expanded with some strong fashion shapes (cateye model Lyra) and a beautiful round design called Selene. www.youmawo.com

 

SUSTAIN by Monoqool

Monoqool launched the SUSTAIN sunglasses, a first 3d printed design made from castor beans farmed sustainably in India through the Pragati Initiative (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHe1N43IN8o ). The company has entered the Sustain programme supported by the AM-Hub organisation in Denmark with the goal of helping a selected number of small/medium size Danish companies to develop sustainable manufacturing via 3D print technology. www.monoqool.com

Passion for purple at Kirk & Kirk

Kirk & Kirk have done much to promote the benefits of colourful eyewear proposals from the UK, and continue to put out glorious colorations, in both their Centena and Kaleidscope collections, with emphasis on new tones of blue, pink and mauve. www.kirkandkirk.com

ROLF Spectacles: Titanium Skyline – advanced tech + crafting

The Skyline collection at ROLF Spectacles is exceptional in its avantgarde designs in 3D printed titanium. The new styles have stunning combinations of smooth and textured ‘volcanic-like’ surfaces as well as offering a lightweight, easy-to-wear eyewear solution – putting this line in a category of its own. Image above: Photographer: Clemens Ascher http://www.clemensascher.com and clothes by Mühlmann https://www.muehlmann.eu  For more information about ROLF, visit www.rolfspectacles.com

VAERK no 104 in Champagne

New brands were plentiful at Silmo, the best ones focusing on advanced technology and technical know-how. VAERK Copenhagen puts the emphasis on beautiful engineering, tech and Danish design traditions. In collaboration with the renowned Danish industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen, this brand has developed an innovative hinge concept that not only constitutes high level precision but also an aesthetically appealing link between the frame front and temple. www.vaerkcopenhagen.com

Covrt Project: high-tech urban design / made in Italy

In a completely different departure for street style aficionados, London-based designer and creative director Marcello Martino launched Covrt Project in the “start-up” area of the Silmo fair. This bold Italian made collection includes 7 sunglass styles with advanced tech features focused on enhanced comfort, durability and individual design. The collection is accompanied by unique accessories: find out more at  https://covrtproject.com.

SILMO Paris will take place from 2nd to 5th October 2020 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For more information visit www.silmoparis.com Eyestylist will report on more trends and new updates following SILMO Paris in the weeks ahead. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. Please seek permission for reprints. All rights reserved.

Rigards for UJOH: Paris launch

Ti Kwa’s avant-garde eyewear label Rigards always has something special to show at Paris Fashion Week and SILMO at this time of year – and for 2019 it’s a very special cat eye inspired by nature.

Collaborating with UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki’s award-winning womenswear line, model RG0123UJOH+ builds upon the traditional winged silhouette, with its upswept double rims, one made of ultralight aluminum-magnesium and the other of surgical-steel. The semi-stacked construction and negative-space cut away creates an illusion that the inner rims are floating over the face.

The frame’s aesthetic pays special homage to dragonflies and damselflies, insects which the designer has studied with a keen eye. Despite their simple origin from “incomplete” metamorphoses and fragile wings of gossamer, they have come to symbolize beauty, ferocity, and purity of habitat, in almost every part of the world.

A second model – RG0123UJOH – was created alongside this masterpiece. This style is described as “a little more subtle” without the statement-making cut-out (and thus the colour contrast), yet still offering a resolutely distinctive and individual alternative for the less-audacious wearer.

Both styles are released in six colours, one of the highlights of which is Red—nicknamed ‘Akatombo’ (Red Dragonfly), a nod to the iconic creatures of Japanese nostalgia and song. Find out more by visiting Rigards at SILMO or Paris Fashion Week, or go to www.rigards.com – for previous features on Rigards via Eyestylist visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/the-viridi-anne-x-rigards-glasses-with-clip/  CN

 

l.a. Eyeworks 40th anniversary celebrations

Forty years ago this month, Gai Gherardi and Barbara McReynolds opened an optical shop on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles – l.a. Eyeworks. Four decades later, the pioneering efforts and energy of Gherardi and McReynolds have catapulted l.a. Eyeworks into an international and influential house of eyewear design.

l.a. Eyeworks 40th anniversary placard designed by artist Nina Palomba

The anniversary year kicks off with a window campaign that will adorn the facades of more than eighty optical retailers in seven countries. Two signboards feature custom graphic designs with the messages: ‘Raise your Glasses’ and ‘Uncensored Visions since 1979’ floating above the brand’s logo. Created by L.A. based artist Nina Palomba, the design is one of numerous multidisciplinary artists and inspiring personalities with whom l.a. Eyeworks has partnered for creative marketing and photos during forty years. For the Fall 2019 portrait campaign, l.a. Eyeworks is working with three visionary photographers who will creatively express Gherardi and McReynolds’s philosophy, cementing their inspiration: “the ever-changing diverse landscape of faces.” Among the brands most famous catchphrases is: ‘A face is like a work of art. It deserves a great frame.’

Portrait styled by Shirley Kurata and photographed by Mimi Haddon

In all their eyewear designs, Gherardi and McReynolds display an innate passion for colour and shape, which has enamoured opticians worldwide throughout the years. Deirdre McNally at Optica Dublin noted: “We truly admire and have fallen in love all over again with l.a. Eyeworks. They have a magic to understand eyewear.” The l.a. Eyeworks innovative magic continues to expand with exemplary designs that manifest originality, diligence and dedication, as well as passion and perseverance, that the founders have infused into their iconic brand. Congratulations to l.a. Eyeworks on this memorable occasion of their 40th Anniversary. www.laeyeworks.com JG

Milan Fashion Week

Synonymous with quality and chic, trendsetting style, Milan’s fashion week continues to be a mecca for luxury street style, good taste and individual dressing. Here is a sneak peek outside the SS20 catwalks by Italian photographer Gennaro D’Elia. Above: Leila Depina wears vintage Cazal – model 913, first launched in 2001.

Jessica Wang in metal rimmed sunglasses

Jessica Wang (www.notjessfashion.com) looked stunning in oval metal sunnies.

@SISSIZHANG in Gentle Monster X FENDI

Fashion buyer @SISSIZHANG wore the latest style in the Gentle Monster X FENDI collab.

Armela Jakova

Logos are worn with pride in Milan. Digital content creator and speaker Armela Jakova wore Gucci. For more photos from Milan Fashion Week visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com.

Paris ready

With just 3 days to go before the big event in Paris, designers look forward to unveiling creative designs for the forthcoming season, with graphic presentations and valuable insights into the evolution of their collections and brand stories. Silmo Paris brings together an extraordinarily wide-ranging selection of companies related to the optical field, and for those who visit as buyers, an inspirational and diverse choice of design-focused eyewear from which to select for their customers.

Newcomers’ ranges are much sought after at the fair as are the independent collections with innovative flair and precise design motivations. Alf Lunettes – from France – exhibiting for the second time, will launch a carefully presented line of handmade sunglasses and optical frames which are made in Normandy in exclusive Japanese acetates. They add beautiful, comfortable mineral photochromic lenses “to make a highly technical product” and create a universe inspired by the elegance of the 1920s through to the ’50s, anchored by a precise and heart-felt respect for quality and clean, sober lines. https://lunettes-alf.com

Ynot : Oliver Goldsmith Wintersun

‘Wintersun’ was originally devised by Oliver Goldsmith back in 1965 and was a collection intended to be worn ‘during the winter months’ or through the months when dark-lensed sunglasses were not needed. The collection showcases some of the most historic shapes of the famous Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses collection such as the much favored Ynot (above), round chic Oops and the multi-sided Yatton sunglasses. www.olivergoldsmith.com

New frame Fado by LAFONT Paris: “40 years of Lafont, 40 years of colour”

The historic family eyewear company, Lafont Paris celebrates its 40th birthday at Silmo this year.  A special 40th anniversary collector’s edition box will feature iconic frames from the Lafont Archives, reimagined in a contemporary context. A nod to the 1980s, the decade when the company started will include new interpretations of the classic “Lafont” P3 and elegant cat-eyes with chic Parisian flair. A must-see at the Paris fair this year. www.lafont.com

MOREL 80027A feature Divel sun lenses with a golden internal non-reflective coating

French eyewear company Morel inaugurates an eponymous new collection of sunglasses which brings together a design that is both aesthetic and engineered, in complementary styles. A sneak peak of MOREL 80027A sums up the chic and super trendy flavour. www.morel-france.com

SILMO – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 in Paris, at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details visit www.silmoparis.com. SILMO is a trade only event.

HOF Zurich: Vital vibes & spirited smiles

Glorious Indian Summer weather graced the Hall of Frames Zurich exhibition, which highlighted exceptional presentations of exclusive, premium quality designs, created by independent eyewear designers and brands. Opticians from Switzerland, Germany and Austria enjoyed experiencing the two-day event. Above image: Designers attending HOF Zurich – from the left – included Matze Marpe; Birgitte Falvin; Sven Götti; and Nirvan Javan

HOF Zurich organiser Nathanaël Wenger; model wearing Orgreen frames

“We had excellent feedback from the exhibitors, and visitors were really interested in individual brands, and took the time to get to know them,” said organiser Nathanaël Wenger, “and there were many interesting conversations exchanged between exhibitors and visitors – plus a lot of laughter and smiles! The atmosphere was very good, relaxed and positive.”

Mara and Manuel Iten owners and creators at Fassungswerk

Beautifully crafted, individualistic frames were on display from independent innovators and brands noted for their charismatic approach to eyewear. Creative 3-D printed frames; superbly formulated wooden designs; modern minimalism in titanium; sleek acetate compositions in marvellous colours; material mixtures united for imaginative and original designs; and eco-friendly orientated frames resonated through the collections from Götti Switzerland; Orgreen; Blackfin; Rolf Spectacles; Falvin; Andy Wolf; Matze Marpe; Nirvan Javan; Any Di Munich; Fassungswerk; Caroline Abram; Neubau: Modo; Randolph USA and Tom Davies; among others.

Imaginative new eyeglass covers from Any Di Munich

“We are pleased with the results,” noted Wenger, “and Hall of Frames covers a clear need in the eyewear sector, and will probably increase in importance in the future. We are considering organising another show in the spring of 2020 or 2021.” More details at www.hallofframes.ch JG

Opticians from Switzerland, Austria and Germany visited HOF Zurich

All photos exclusively for HOF Zurich by Nina-Marie Glahé All Rights Reserved www.ninamariaglahe.com

Lafont Boutique Rouen

History permeates the French port city of Rouen on the River Seine. Hero and martyr Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake in Rouen in 1431; Edward IV of England (1442-1483) was born there, as was the novelist Gustave Flaubert (1821), and François Hollande, former President of France (2012-2017), and Claude Monet painted the Rouen Cathedral Series in the 1890’s while visiting there. Now French optical brand Lafont is creating a new and exciting history of its own – with a charming, inspiring boutique in Rouen’s historical  Old Town.

Lafont Children’s Corner in the Rouen Boutique

The Rouen boutique is the first shop outside Paris for the Lafont family-owned business. Optician Fatima Deflinne explained: “There is a family history of friendship between the Lafont family and the previous owner of this shop, and when he was ready to sell, he approached Philippe Lafont. The shop is over one hundred years old, and has always been an optical boutique.” Ultra chic colourations of aubergine and olive green harmonise elegantly in the shop, located within a three-minute walk of the acclaimed Cathedral Notre-Dame de Rouen, plus intriguing shops and cafés. The complete range of Lafont’s diversified eyewear designs for men, women and children are on display. A specific area for children has been carefully allocated where they can play with toys or use colouring books, while also trying on the latest immensely desirable children’s frames.

Intricate detailing crafted in Lafont’s Parisian atelier for the Rouen Armada frame

The shop participates and supports city events, the most prominent activity being the International Rouen Armada that takes place in June every year. This is a major robust celebration on the River Seine, where the finest and beloved sailing ships arrive from all over the world to cruise and navigate along La Seine from Rouen to Le Havre.  This year, as a tribute to the genuine love story between the city, the world of sailing and Maison Lafont, the Lafont Parisian workshop created a striking design to be sold exclusively in the boutique. The graceful, navy blue Armada frame is accented with a carved sailboat above the contemporary frame top.

The Lafont design celebrates the International Rouen Armada

Everything in the Lafont Boutique is personalised, and that includes customised, handwritten invitations that are sent to customers to experience and appreciate new collections. “We only use real invitations that are sent in the post,” explained Deflinne, “and visitors are welcomed with a glass of champagne. Rouen is really a community and everybody knows everybody.”

For Lafont, authenticity is linked to the credibility of the designs handmade in France, which have been awarded the distinguished certification ‘Origine France Garantie.’ For more information on Lafont products and shops, visit www.lafont.com JG

#MFW Delirious : Cheetah

Gracing the catwalks again in Milan this week, Delirious Eyewear joins a line-up of designer fashion collections in the Italian fashion capital. An iconic balance of classic materials and sharp architectural shapes are characterised by subtle natural colorations of caramel, black or delicate animal prints. Model Cheetah is the statement trapezoidal design of the collection, with a sharp slightly squared shape and decadent super flat lenses (by Zeiss) to hide behind.

Cheetah Sunglasses by Delirious Eyewear / Photography: Gennaro D’Elia

“We search for a style that consists of simple lines and minimalistic shapes which are passively influenced by our deep knowledge of the eyewear sector….” Marco Lanero, Delirious

About Delirious Eyewear – Delirious Eyewear is an award-winning independent label based in Milan. With a close relationship to the Milan fashion scene, the label has been recognised by Vogue Talent Italy and continues to innovate in manufacture and production methods through a close relationship with experts in Cadore, Italy and Japan. The collections feature Mazzucchelli acetate, buffalo horn and titanium materials.

Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Model @_piakarl_. For details about Delirious Eyewear visit www.deliriouseyewear.com CN

Skagen’s Nordic Light: Asger by Fleye

The soothing, atmospheric beauty of Skagen, Denmark’s most northerly village, has long inspired painters, writers and designers to visit its windswept shorelines, pine forests and dunes.

Most famous were the Skagen Painters, a group of Scandinavian artists who settled in the village to portray the remarkable scenery – and the unique quality of light that had drawn them to the spectacular spot at the tip of mainland Jutland.

Reflecting on their iconic paintings, eyewear label FLEYE Copenhagen’s design team have come up with their own inspirational artwork experimenting with a variety of materials and their different characteristics; they play with matte and shiny surfaces, soft natural light, color contrasts, and beautiful reflections, highlights of the paintings that most inspired their studies.

Inspired by Skagen Paintings, still life by photographer Ida Emilie Risager

“Each frame becomes its own artistic expression when textures are combined, colours are chosen and reflections are created.”

The result is a series of frames (including model Asger, top) inspired by the colours and textures of the team’s  ‘abstract’ art works, photographed by Ida Emilie Risager. Design concepts such as transparency, depth and structure have been applied to create the collection using a mix of materials from light acetates, to warm carbon/wood and beta-titanium. Each design has a link to the works of art, balancing the technical precision of the Danish company’s frame construction with unusual art-focused design elements and colours.

The Nordic Light eyewear collection launches shortly at the SILMO fair (trade fair) in Paris. Find out more about Fleye frames at : www.fleye.dk CN