Gracing the catwalks again in Milan this week, Delirious Eyewear joins a line-up of designer fashion collections in the Italian fashion capital. An iconic balance of classic materials and sharp architectural shapes are characterised by subtle natural colorations of caramel, black or delicate animal prints. Model Cheetah is the statement trapezoidal design of the collection, with a sharp slightly squared shape and decadent super flat lenses (by Zeiss) to hide behind.
“We search for a style that consists of simple lines and minimalistic shapes which are passively influenced by our deep knowledge of the eyewear sector….” Marco Lanero, Delirious
About Delirious Eyewear – Delirious Eyewear is an award-winning independent label based in Milan. With a close relationship to the Milan fashion scene, the label has been recognised by Vogue Talent Italy and continues to innovate in manufacture and production methods through a close relationship with experts in Cadore, Italy and Japan. The collections feature Mazzucchelli acetate, buffalo horn and titanium materials.
Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Model @_piakarl_. For details about Delirious Eyewear visitwww.deliriouseyewear.comCN
The soothing, atmospheric beauty of Skagen, Denmark’s most northerly village, has long inspired painters, writers and designers to visit its windswept shorelines, pine forests and dunes.
Most famous were the Skagen Painters, a group of Scandinavian artists who settled in the village to portray the remarkable scenery – and the unique quality of light that had drawn them to the spectacular spot at the tip of mainland Jutland.
Reflecting on their iconic paintings, eyewear label FLEYE Copenhagen’s design team have come up with their own inspirational artwork experimenting with a variety of materials and their different characteristics; they play with matte and shiny surfaces, soft natural light, color contrasts, and beautiful reflections, highlights of the paintings that most inspired their studies.
“Each frame becomes its own artistic expression when textures are combined, colours are chosen and reflections are created.”
The result is a series of frames (including model Asger, top) inspired by the colours and textures of the team’s ‘abstract’ art works, photographed by Ida Emilie Risager. Design concepts such as transparency, depth and structure have been applied to create the collection using a mix of materials from light acetates, to warm carbon/wood and beta-titanium. Each design has a link to the works of art, balancing the technical precision of the Danish company’s frame construction with unusual art-focused design elements and colours.
The Nordic Light eyewear collection launches shortly at the SILMO fair (trade fair) in Paris. Find out more about Fleye frames at : www.fleye.dkCN
Amidst Extinction Rebellion environmental protests, demonstrations against leather in fashion, LFW photographers and the so-called style influencers, the crowds heading to the shows or lingering outside provide a fashion preview for autumn/winter 19 street style in the British capital. For eyewear, the variety was a talking point with a hugely eclectic mix of frames and sunglasses, from poorly styled to beautifully unique – with some very obvious over worn brand-emblazoned sunnies as well as a penchant for vintage, and mega trends of 2019 – mini Matrix shapes, the cateye (strong also in NYC) or the oversized visor and mask.
This weekend, some of the coolest looks in the city at the venues – both for glasses and sunglasses – showed there is growing confidence in understated, simple or pared back design – especially where there is an architectural detail or retro 80s/90s influenced silhouette. Above: Fashion artist @tayisiya_ph in all black, paired with a statement wide brim hat and structured timeless rectangular specs.
Our review of some of the eyewear spotted on London’s streets and at LFW will be published this coming week – follow us on Instagram @eyestylistmagazine. Top image: London Fashion Week photography by Cesare Riccardi, exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN
To a well trained eye, crystal tones (in eyewear) can vary dramatically. The most refined offer a delicate elegance due to the quality of the cellulose acetate, and the precision in tumbling and hand finishing to create the desired rich lustre or shine.
Consistent in their choice of strong and flexible Japanese cellulose acetate, SALT. Optics, the Californian eyewear brand works with a wide yet subtle palette of colours and superb clear crystal and smokey tints. The brand plays with the trending tinted crystal tones which are flattering to the complexion – often using colorations and a mix of tones inspired by the natural world, the sea, the earth and the sky. Above: model Sophia by SALT. Optics, in Smokey Grey with CR39 Denim Gradient polarized lenses. The finely crafted metal core is visible inside the clear acetate, a design touch that revisits the crafted finish of vintage eyewear.
This season, the models in the C2-19 collection include a range of finely crafted ophthalmic frames with natural tones of toasted toffee and brushed honey gold through to the sophisticated translucent smoke grey of model Gerry, pictured above.
One of the classic tones of sunglass model Andy, combines a delicate smoke grey and a bolder coloration in tea on the temples. A unisex panto design, this statement frame highlights the contrast of the metal hard ware – with plaques and pins, designed to last – lending a classic hallmark of quality to each design.
About SALT. Optics – SALT. is a premium eyewear brand from coastal California that is committed to quality frame construction and timeless design, inspired by effortless beauty. Combining high-grade materials with third generation Japanese craftsmanship, SALT. makes timeless eyewear designed for anyone who appreciates natural simplicity and lasting design. www.saltoptics.comCN
New main line titanium styles by Blackfin are hot off the press for the Autumn season, with a careful focus on innovative technical details and uncompromising quality construction – features that have long been at the heart of this tech-loving, innovation-driven family firm. The five shapes releasing include a panto-inspired frame called Bayou, a classically round Blackfin design with ultra-flex titanium bridge and temples in beta titanium – a material selected for its extra strength and flexibility when combined with titanium.
The color palette for Bayou ranges from the more masculine – dark blue paired with a bright red (below), black or midnight blue – to the more feminine shades of blush pink or midnight blue combined with the brightest tone of magenta.
All the new styles in the range are fitted with tilting nose pads and Blackfin’s Swordfish temple tips. Find them at Silmo Paris this month and visit the website for all the latest releases as they appear at www.blackfin.eu. CN
The founders of the Northern Swedish company EOE have created the first edition of eyewear made from recycled broken and discarded plastic eyewear. The collection and campaign launch this month in Paris.
Commitment to research. Investment in new technology for recycling. And admirable perseverance to set up a workable system for recycling frames in Sweden in a collaboration with the Nordic company Synsam and Vision for All. The founders of EOE Erik and Emilia Lindmark have worked for over three years on the recycling project to create a frame material with performance properties comparable to new acetate and an aesthetic finish and choice of colorations suitable for the creation of high-quality trend-focused products.
Launching the concept with the Regrind edition of three sunglasses, attention has been placed on creating a chic look in the coloration using predominantly black frames for the “regrinding” process. Tiny smatterings of minute coloured frame pieces are just visible, and create a textured effect on the surface, the look of which is wholly dependent on the types of frames recycled, the predominant colours of the frame pieces and the quality of the acetate of the old frames. Above: EOE’s new video illustrates the concept developed by EOE for turning old unwanted eyewear into a recycled material for new chic eyewear.
Regrind debuts as a fashion collection in a stunning campaign by fashion photographers Peter Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago (www.faragofarago.com) which highlights the idiosyncrasies of the material in a beautiful wild and natural Swedish landscape.
EOE recycled acetate material is produced by EOE together with engineers, chemists and physicists. The frames are shattered into small pieces and the metal parts are then filtered out. The plastic pieces then undergo a regrinding process to create new blocks of raw material. 98% of the old eyewear is recyclable. EOE uses recycled steel from Sweden to produce the metal parts of the frames. In August the company was recognised by Encouragement for Action – Stockholm Fashion District in the “closing the loop” category, part of an award scheme to raise awareness and bring attention to important ideas in sustainability, digitization and fashion tech.
Bespoke Limited Edition by master craftsman, Sawada-Yaemon – Sabae Japan
A new special edition “James Dean” inspired collection from Japan – bound for Europe this month – gives expression to the heritage and craftsmanship of Sabae eyewear makers dedicated to traditional ‘tried and tested’ production techniques, and expert craft work passed down through families.
The “JD” spectacles by TVR®, focusing on the classic rounded “horn-rim” style made famous by James Dean, are created in a strong Zylonite material (4mm thick) with metal core identified by a very fine handcrafted embellishment of Japanese engraving inspired by The Great Wave of Kanagawa, the woodblock print by ukiyo-e artist Hokusai. Above: TVR® Arnel®, European Edition – Kanagawa Metal Core Design
Craftsman Sawada-Yaemon whose family has a multi-generational reputation in eyewear production has been put in charge of the complete production of the limited edition. The Yaemon family whose ancestors date back to the Edo period, is the first to perfect the iconic TVR® Arnel® shape using traditional measuring techniques.
Meticulously recreated by hand, the unmistakable vintage design of the JD shape is enhanced with SPM (Sun Platinum Metal) spear rivets, a keyhole bridge, 7-barrel hinges and miter cutting by hand. Every detail, from the tumbling and polishing to each bend that’s perfected by hand represents the revival of TVR® Arnel® based on the original blueprint from 1948.
The European edition is released in seven colours with emphasis on delicate crystal tones – a Japanese specialty – and sophisticated neutrals including Amazing Grey Black, Black Dark Brown, Classic Black, Demi Brown Amber, Grey Gradient, Olive Clear and Yellow Crystal. The European Edition is designed as a special edition to recognise the support of TVR customers outside Japan since the label was first created in 2014. For more information visit:www.tvropt.comCN
Imagination and thinking “outside the box” highlights the thriving individuality and creativity of independent, global eyewear designers. Next week (15th and 16th September) in Zurich, this elegant Swiss city on the lake, is the ideal opportunity to discover over forty gifted creators who bring new concepts, dimensions, and spirit to eyewear. Organiser Nathanaël Wenger noted: “We’ve had lots of activity and interest in the Zurich show; and even with many changes in the optical sector, the market for independents is stable and strong. Opticians know how to focus and increasingly choose independent brands. So we are really positive.”
From Andy Wolf to You Mawo, the roll call of participating brands in HOF Zurich is impressive, energetic and artistic. Companies recognised on an international level, as well as newcomers, are participating in the two-day event as Papiersaal, an historic location in the centre of this vibrant, beautiful Swiss city. Glossy acetate and minimalist titanium designs grace the masterful variety of frames by Orgreen (top image). Japanese architecture inspires the newest collection, with stunning shapes and colours www.orgreen.dk
Nature and beautiful surroundings in the Austrian region of Styria is the keynote to the latest Andy Wolf designs. In an expressive collection with innovative silhouettes and chic colourations, you’ll discover diverse frames that also reflect Andy Wolf’s commitment to sustainable use of resources. www.andy-wolf.com
Danish Titanium specialist LINDBERG launches the autumn season with a striking collection of chic designs for men and women. Exquisite detailing, and attention to every aspect of frame creation, has enabled LINDBERG to become a recognised leader and award-winner in luxury eyewear. www.lindberg.com
Fassungswerk is a small Swiss brand also inspired by Nature with their crafting of unconventional frames in acetate and horn. Quality, precision and experimental styling characterises their young contemporary concept. www.fassungswerk.ch
Parisian designer Caroline Abram dresses up women’s eyes with glamour and elegance, as well as dashing and daring concepts. Caroline’s latest dazzling optical and sunglass designs in creative colourations and marvellous shapes, are the ideal accessories for autumn/winter fashions – holidays too! www.carolineabram.com
Come enjoy and experience exciting, new eyewear with independent creators in Zurich on the 15th and 16th September at Papiersaal…a remarkable place to discover exclusively produced designs with profound pedigrees. For the full list of exhibitors and more details, visit www.hallofframes.chJG
A new exhibition highlighting the creative talents of Belgian artisans takes place in Brussels this month. Ateliers Gabriel proposes an opportunity to get close to some of Belgium’s most accomplished craftsmen and women with an exhibition of the recent work and presentation of a selection of tools and photographs from the workshops which explore the expertise and precision that goes into the different handmade pieces.
“A world of passion and patience, where time and attention to detail make all the difference…” Substance Exhibition
Ateliers Gabriel is a project designed to represent high calibre Belgian workshops in ‘crafts, decorative arts and art of living’. Members of the group who will be highlighted in the exhibition include the bespoke eyewear maker Lunetier Ludovic (www.eyestylist.com/2019/01/lunetier-ludovic-brussels-belgium/), Atelier Mestdagh, makers of stained glass, Niyona, the fine leather goods specialist and furniture maker Alexandre Lowie.
Maison Johanne Riss, Rue de la grosse tour, 3, 1000 Brussels from 19-21 September 2019. For more information about Ateliers Gabriel: www.ateliersgabriel.be CN
The Silmo fair in September (international trade fair) is the pinnacle of the “eyewear designers” calendar of events, and provides our eyes with a feast of colour and innovation in design from well-known, new and up-and-coming labels who descend on Paris for several days. It’s the place we love to scout for innovation, new trends, and unique eyewear and accessories from all around the world.
Joining the line up are many companies who return to the event every year. The Marseilles designer Jean-François Rey launches new designs across multiple collections at the event, with a principal focus on expertise in colour, design creativity and beautiful French artisan quality. Highlights this year will include the new Wave collection (above) – an architecture-inspired eyewear concept using stainless steel to create lightweight, airy structures with a “folding effect” achieved by hand. Gorgeous hand applied colour combinations provide an eye-catching effect on the face. www.jfrey.fr
From Sweden, Oscar Magnuson returns each year to Paris, this time with a bio-acetate collection that marries a bold structural look with the quality and pared-down purity of high-quality Swedish design. The sunglasses collection in the same material include some statement micro shapes (model Sid) and oversized classics (model Debbie) and across the lines you will find a palette of monochrome tones such as urban green, crystal grey and deep ink – a deep sophisticated and moody tone that makes a clever alternative to black. www.oscarmagnuson.com
Their first time showing to the international audience at Silmo, Diffuser Tokyo – by Masaki Hirose – will reveal its comprehensive high-quality range of accessories which include cases, frame holders and eyewear pouches in a fresh concept that highlights quality materials and well designed functional products. Preview their ranges at www.diffuser-tokyo.com. We are already big fans.
Brand new crystal colorations and nature-infused tones are a feature for next year’s sunglasses collections. Californian label SALT. Optics is introducing new styles in their C2-19 collection which is poised to deliver beautiful heritage-inspired eyewear, made in Japan with exclusive quality features (incredible hardware through to chic glass lenses) and subtle colorations of dusty rose, hazy taupe, mojave and whiskey (above). Find out more at www.saltoptics.com
Another new name at Silmo this year, Mr Lenoir is the official brand of former football player Djibril Cissé, with optical and sunglass designs created in partnership with Laurent Balducelli, a French optician and specialist in bespoke eyewear. Produced in Montbeliard in France, the eclectic range of styles are made from Mazzucchelli acetate and in some cases feature metal laser cutting and chemical etching. They are available at a few independent stores already, both in and outside France. For more information visit their Instagram page @mrlenoirlunettes.
For luxurious, cutting-edge design, the Swiss brand Von Arkel stands apart in its achievements in applying the technical precision and craftsmanship of watchmaking to luxury frames, produced by master craftsmen in Morges in Switzerland. New sophisticated concepts will show on the Von Arkel stand at the Paris show this month: www.vonarkel.com
Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visitwww.silmoparis.comWatch our Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!
As The Matrix trend and tiny sunnies slightly wane in favour of oversized and “in your face” shelds and visors, miniature proportions for ophthalmic glasses are an essential look for autumn/winter. Several cutting-edge brands have just released interpretations of the look; they combine shapes we last saw trending in the 1990s with state-of-the-art materials and finishes for the contemporary twist. Above: 90s style glasses by Götti Switzerland
Götti Switzerland have launched lightweight models Gardin and Gafin for Autumn, a minimal expression of a 90s design in fine Japanese titanium, adjusting the look with contemporary influences for A/W 2019/20. The fine design features include narrow metal temple tips and a pure linear style. www.gotti.ch
The youthful Austrian label – neubau eyewear – also has some wire revival designs launching this month, produced in filigree stainless steel. The frames are light and have a barely-there effect on the face, gently outlining the expression of the eyes with oval and almond silhouettes.
Model Virginia by neubau has an almond eye shape and is available in a choice of colours: matte rose, glorious gold and matte ink black. Find out more about this eyewear label at www.neubau-eyewear.comCN
Sebastian Zenetti is the Co-Founder of the award-winning 3d printed eyewear label, You Mawo. The brand is pioneering a new form of 3D printed made-to-measure eyewear, which uses an ipad to take a scan of the head.
For any one who doesn’t know You Mawo, how would you explain what you are doing in the context of luxury 3D printed eyewear? We have formed a team of experts from areas outside eyewear, from optics, IT, product development, design, and business/economics. Our focus is to find new technologies, to bring them to eyewear and generate something innovative with added value for the customer. Among other things, we use the latest and most innovative production technology.
Who was originally the brains behind the brand and how has the team grown since you first launched in 2016 in Germany? You Mawo was created by four founders. Stephan Grotz is head of IT development and has more than 20 years’ experince with data analytics and algorithmic parametrisation. Daniel Szabo is head of finance and and business development. Daniel Miko is head of Design and product development. I take care of our sales team and customer support. After 3 and a half years we have grown from 4 to 40. We are developing everything by ourselves and as much as possible through our team.
What exactly is different about a You Mawo 3d printed design? And what are the frames made of? We use a special kind of polyamide from the medical industry. This material is 30% lighter than acetate and much more durable. It has great thermal properties and is adjustable with heat. Our production technology is called selective laser sintering and it is the industrial version of 3D Printing. The frames are produced, layer by layer. The benefit of this technology is that we can produce individual frames quickly and easily, and we produce as good as no waste, which makes this method completely sustainable.
As well as the main collection, you have created some pretty wild one-off frames including a cool thick framed limited edition. Can you tell us about these. These are our ‘design lab’ frames: we wanted to be able to showcase the possibilities we have with 3D printing. Our first concept in this series is ‘Metamorphosis’. Model Malina was inspired by the first sunglasses on Earth, created in bone by the Inuit.
How did you get into eyewear in the first place? – what is your previous career path and what attracted you to 3D printing? My family owns optical stores and I trained as an optician. Then I met Daniel Miko and Daniel Szabo. We realised instantly we had something in common: we are all very interested in new technologies. At some point on a backpacking trip to Southern Asia, we were talking about customization and we came up with a complete concept: You Mawo was born.
Can you give us a sneak peak of what is happening for you at the Silmo trade fair and what we can expect from the brand in 2020? This month we will launch four new models in our Design lab collection where our Designers and product development team can show what is possible with new technology. 2020 is extremely exciting for us too. We will launch new innovations including some new advanced software tools. We are hugely looking forward to the future and we can’t wait to reveal what else we are working on. For more information about You Mawo visit www.youmawo.comCN
The luxury accessories brand La Loop is celebrating 20 years in the business with a gorgeous holiday capsule and sophisticated new entries for autumn/winter. The designs offer a mix of classic La Loop style and new glamorous shapes and colours, with pieces that were around when the brand first launched, and 2019 iterations.
“I was inspired by Lucio Fontana’s Earth & Gold exhibition at the Borghese gallery in Rome,” explains California based designer Elizabeth Faraut. “Fontana’s 20th century gold metallic abstract paintings were placed next to classic sculptures and paintings by Bernini and Raphael. Fontana, an abstract artist whose body of work spanned the 1920s-50s, was the pioneer of spatialism, a movement which intended to synthesize colour, sound, space, movement, and time into a new type of art.”
Overall, the collection showcases the richness of material with distinctive details that make these pieces extremely collectible. And for Silmo release, Faraut promises something for everyone: “From supple metallic Italian leather, to multi-colored Tiger’s Eye beads, chunky gold and oversized acetate links, we bring you a breadth of texture, shape, and colour. We’re offering boxy, biker-inspired gender-neutral box chains, opulent gold plated bling, and a selection of premium solid sterling necklaces made by the same family-run NY jewelry manufacturer who made our very first La Loop necklace.”
In celebration of 20 years, La Loop has launched the ‘Loop In’ campaign which focuses on honoring people who are making a difference in their local communities. The goal is to have 10,000 people ‘loop in’ and share their personal journeys of how they shape their communities – by 2020. For more on the campaign, visit the Instagram page @la_loop . For more information and to purchase direct at the online store, visit www.laloop.comCN
“My philosophy toward eyewear is simple: longevity and versatility are key”, says Coyote DeGroot. “I want the frame to last, from both from a structural and stylistic standpoint. The frame must complement, not overwhelm, the wearer. And it should also be suitable for all occasions, weddings, job interviews, bachelor parties, funerals….”
Lab Rabbit Optics, located by Wicker Park in Chicago, opened nearly 9 years ago. Today, Coyote sells a wide selection of independent collections, from classics like Randolph Engineering to avantgarde designers from Japan. “My customer base is very diverse in terms of both lifestyle and age,” he told Eyestylist. “I make eyeglasses for attorneys, musicians, television and film producers, bike messengers, retirees, bartenders, professors, performance artists, doctors, deviants, and over-achievers. Every day is a surprise.”
The development of an own label came naturally, owing to a serious passion and interest in design. “My own frames are designed in-house and handmade in Japan in limited quantities of 20-80 pieces per colour. The collection is comprised of nine different models, with another two in production. They have unusually sturdy hinges, and lots of titanium, along with Mazzucchelli and Takiron acetates. I try to offer something different in terms of the design, and I experiment constantly. My customers really like having access to unique, limited edition frames, from a Chicago-based brand. I’m now preparing for the frames to go into select optical shops outside Chicago.”
Asked about the attitude of young people toward independent labels in Chicago, Coyote is realistic but he sees a trend that suits his style. “I think buying cheap, fast eyewear via the internet is a phase that a lot of consumers go though. Many of my customers have purchased glasses from Warby Parker or Zenni in the past, and now they’re ready to invest in something better: cool handmade frames, more optically precise lenses, and attentive, personal service. My shop definitely does NOT look like the average optical shop that most people grew up visiting, but it’s growing in popularity among the adventurous, and among those who recognize the lasting value of good quality products and service.” For more information visit: www.labrabbit.comCN
Antwerp creator and avid eyewear collector Laurence Bourguignon says she doesn’t follow trends nor does she focus on a specific target group or age. “My designs are an expression of myself and who I am. I can only hope they will be picked up by women with a genuine and self-confident personality, daring to express themselves.”
Named after her father Ari (short for Aristide), the collection remains something of a special ‘secret’ outside Belgium, although it’s stocked in some prestigious optical stores and luxury fashion stores like Azzurro Due (www.azzurrodue.com). Pictured above: model Authentic in Honey – a showpiece in the Laurence D’Ari collection.
The 8 sunglasses in the 2019 selection – named after characteristics of personalities which the designer admires (they include ‘Devoted’ and ‘Spirited’) are crafted in Italy in rich marble-effect acetates with bold organic or angular oversized forms and retro-infused squares and cat eyes that have characteristic sculptural definition in some details such as a wave effect in the lower edge of the temples, and an open gold temple ring to attach the accompanying gold chain.
Laurence D’Ari launched in 2018 with focus on strong, charismatic elegant styling inspired by vintage elements, especially for women. The sunglasses are available in selected opticians (including Annys Optiek, De Wilde, Philip Hoet and Frank Props) and several fashion concept stores known for unique designers and luxury apparel. Find the full collection online at www.laurencedari.comCN
In a unique collaboration between award-winning avantgarde label Rigards and Japan’s artisan fashion designer Tomoaki Okaniwa, these silver + aluminium round glasses are among several of the works of art in the Rigards collection for 2019 – showing that the Hong-Kong based designer Ti Kwa continues on his own path of artisan craftsmanship and innovation, with ever greater achievement in the creative process and work with different, distinctive materials.
This complex small round frame is made from pure titanium and hand hammered .925 sterling silver for the nose piece, surgical steel for the temple arms and aluminium-magnesium for the interchangeable sun clip. Delicacy and character come from the signature hand worked finishes and elegant shape of the glasses which are light and refined, with a bespoke feel to each element of the design. A sophisticated nose pad design uses three different components which fit together to form the cohesive whole and unique colour combinations ensure a choice of dramatic or more subtle, depending on the individual’s style. The frame above is pictured in black (RG2001) with a white clip-on and contrasting red lens.
About The Viridi-anne: the brand was launched by Tomoaki Okaniwa in Japan in 2001. It is often described as Japanese in design, with influences from Europe. The label collaborates with many unique labels including Bocci, Mold and Daniel Andresen.
About Rigards: Rigards has become a creative leader in luxury artisan eyewear and produces frames by hand in a variety of sophisticated materials including copper, wood and buffalo horn. Rigards won the iF design award in 2018. for its aluminum-magnesium model RG0086AL. For further details visit www.rigards.com and www.viridi-anne.jpCN
Tavat Eyewear continues to prove that ingenious tech innovation is a lasting, winning trait in eyewear. Their SoupCan concept, launched in 2015 (at the Mido eyewear fair, Milan) and inspired by 1930s goggles, continues to achieve an ideal balance in the benefits of the “sandwich” style technical construction with rimlock closure. It also offers a completely different finish and feel to the design which is comfortable, durable and fresh in style.
Launched in 2019, the Hexad in the Soupcan collection is offered in a range of colours suited to all tastes. They include classic matt black, bond blue horn and champagne, all beautiful and unique for the new season.
The frames are made in Italy and feature a long list of tech details from tiny watch-crown screws to comfy hypoallergenic nosepads; the metal temples are laser etched for a decorative touch and some styles benefit from ultra scratched hand finished surfaces which provide a tactile feel to the material and a subtle texture. Tavat’s frames in the SoupCan collection are the expression of a rare and innovative approach to functionality and style in product design and the refreshing aesthetic is ideally suited to those who seek something different beyond the ordinary designer frame. See more colours in the SoupCan collection at https://tavat-eyewear.com/eng/prodotto/hexad-sc041-ov / https://tavat-eyewear.com For more about Tavat click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/10/tavat-eyewear-pantos-18k-gold/ CN
Behind the Vera Wang eyewear collection is a team of creatives with expertise in colour, shape and the technical precisions of a unique pair of spectacles. Eyestylist asked designer Laura Howard to talk about her approach to luxury product design and her thoughts on trends and choosing a new frame.
How long have you been working with Vera Wang eyewear? I first began working on the Vera Wang runway collection, VWX, in 2014, along with Kenmark’s CCO and Vera Wang optical collection designer, David Duralde. Vera has been fully involved from the beginning, so having all that history there when I started provided some valuable design groundwork and some major expectations to fulfil.
How do you turn Vera’s vision into an eyewear collection? Can you describe the process for each collection. Each season’s runway collection all starts with Vera! She is incredibly passionate about eyewear and spends a lot of time thinking about the point of view she wants her collection to have. We meet with Vera and her team to discuss trends, to gather inspiration and to get a read on her vision for the collection. She’ll often sketch a few ideas for shape or to show the scale and proportion she is looking for. I then take all of that and design many, many concepts for her to review and make further edits. She stays very involved after that by choosing every material, lens and finish for each frame. This collection is truly personal to her and she is creatively connected to each piece.
From a personal point of view, what are your greatest passions in life, and does that impact on your work as a designer ? I have a real need to get out and experience the world. There aren’t many places that I wouldn’t go at least once! The takeaways from travel (even short weekend trips) have a lasting effect on my life and work. Just opening yourself up to new experiences allows for creativity to prosper. Being out in the world is also a reminder that there are faces other than my own. When designing, I obviously try everything on my face, so I constantly have to make sure I don’t end up with a collection that is tailor-made just for me.
Do you think that women are more in tune with the benefits of eyewear styling and choosing styles/colors that are enhancing to the personality. If so, can you give any examples or advise on choosing a frame? I think women have always been in tune with their personal style, but now more than ever, fashionable eyewear is much more accessible. With so many new ways to shop and eyewear being offered at nearly every price tier, women have access to a lot more variety and endless ways to express themselves. With that, I think choosing just one frame is no longer necessary. And I’d say try on EVERYTHING! As designers at Kenmark, we put frames on lots of faces. I would say that most people we fit end up loving something they never would have tried on if we didn’t make them. Toss out the face shape chart and go with your gut!
What can we expect in 2020 in terms of design trends / style/colour trends and how have you interpreted those concepts in the new collections? Metal eyewear is still a very strong trend that I don’t see going anywhere anytime soon. Shapes are trending toward more utility styling with pieces like shields and sports wraps. I think micro sunglasses are slowing down, but a frame on the smaller and thinner side is still going strong. Moving into 2020, I think we’ll start to see acetate creep back in, but in thinner profiles and more translucent colorways. One of the defining features of the Vera Wang collection has been the showcasing of exposed structure, which really lends itself to the growing utilitarian trend. Through a series of prongs and screws, the strength and construction of those pieces are celebrated, not buried within the materials. This styling will be carried forward into the newest collection by creating new shapes in metal that boast this concept.
What is it like to work with a couture designer on a collection, and what have been the most exciting moments for you in your career path so far? Working with someone like Vera Wang, who 30+ years into her career is still at the top of her game, is truly the most fascinating and invigorating experience. I’m incredibly inspired by her sense of self, the strength in her vision and her tenacity as a designer. One of the perks of being around someone like that is that you get a contact high from their energy. Just absorbing her ideas, philosophies and instincts is always time well spent. Seeing your frames walk the runway isn’t too shabby either! For more details about the Vera Wang Collection visitwww.kenmarkeyewear.comCN For previous articles about Vera Wang click on the following link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/deryn-by-vera-wang/
Big is definitely beautiful when it comes to square frames. This shape has re-emerged in 2019 with bold retro-inspired depth and bulkiness – or a minimalist airiness – in a choice of ingeneous colorations, that beg to be worn as modern statement pieces.
Above: Essedue model Ecstasy in grey from the Italian label’s Prima collection, a handfinished line produced in a family factory in Irpinia near Naples. Prima sunglasses by Essedue are available direct from the Essedue website atwww.esseduesunglasses.com
Frames with a classic retro flair are an easy bet for all-year-round styling, and the square designs are already being hyped for SS2020. Model Fuz from Oliver Goldsmith is one that has inspired many other sunglass designs. First created in London in 1966, the frame is still constructed with bold bevelled edges and paddle temples – and comes in lots of new colorways including black leopard (above) and black cherry. www.olivergoldsmith.com
The UK label Kirk & Kirk always delivers a classic shape with a unique twist. The Percy is one of their acrylic optical styles in the Centena collection, providing a magnificently bold silhouette with the flash of transparent colour that lights up the face. www.kirkandkirk.com
In contrast, Finest Seven brings on the square with a special super fine structure. Their oversized Zero 09 has a large squareish lens with a neat double bridge. The frame is made of stainless steel wire and fitted with 100% UV 400 high quality Italian lenses. For more details visit www.finestseven.comCN
Folding sunglasses have been around for decades. The Italian label Persol claim their 714 as the first-ever commercialised foldable design. Since then, beyond the classic designs and some iconic examples from the 1970s, new innovations in this area had been fairly scarce, until in 2017, the Californian start-up ROAV came along with a robust, screwless patented metal design, launching via Kickstarter, the crowdfunding platform.
ROAV frames are made from 0.6mm stainless steel – they say they are thinner than an iPhone – and have micro hinges “press-formed” into the metal. Folding at the nose bridge, sides and along the temples, the whole frame packs down to fit snugly into a soft, flexible ‘pouch’ or case that’s under 7 cms wide. Every detail is there to make them easy to pull out and put away and convenient for travellers, weekenders and those who love a slim tech design for practicality and ease with enough detail in the styling to make them wearable.
For the most part, the shapes are straightforward and timeless and suit most faces, with regular black or gunmetal and a few more flashy colours such as gold (see above). The very flat TAC polarised sun lenses – which provide standard 100% UV400 protection (scratch and shatter resistant) vary from traditional hues for a tone-on-tone effect with matching frame to super bright acid mirror tones of red or green.
ROAV sunglasses are available online and, increasingly through opticians, and they come with a 2 year defect free warranty which means your style will be fixed or replaced during that time if you find any problems. For more information, visit www.roaveyewear.com or in the UK go to www.roavuk.comCN
Introducing TVR®, an eyewear collection by skilled craftsmen from Sabae City, Fukui Prefecture, Japan
Japanese precision, tradition and artisanal craft: at the centre of the frame manufacturing region of Fukui, where artisans have worked for over 60 years in old family-owned workshops, today there are just a few traditional factories existing in Sabae who still produce handmade eyewear, and a handful of craftsmen and women of this age who continue to produce eyeglasses by hand. Some of them work exclusively with True Vintage Revival – TVR®, a small label dedicated to their extraordinary expertise through the revival of the historic “classic” shapes. Above: Artisan Yamada Mitsukazu, in his 70s, works with his wife in their traditional workshop. He has been making frames since he was 16 years old. Between them, they make around 100 frames a month.
TVR® uses time-tested methods to create these high-quality “revival” designs as well as original tools and moulds which date from the 1920s to the 80s. They also use the “Datum Expression Size” technique, a masterful method for measurement used during the 50s in Japan to obtain a subtle balance in the design for comfort, durability and lightness.
In the making of the TVR® classics, vintage design features including the keyhole-bridge, functional ‘spear’ rivets, 7-barrel hinges, and other traditional spectacle details are boldly executed with skill, passed down through these generations of craftsmen whose families were responsible for starting the production of Zylonite/celluloid spectacles in the early 1950s.
Today, TVR® produces a selection of collections in Japanese zyl and SPM Sun Platinum Metal – a metal material first used in Japan in the 1930s and a favourite of the former Emperor of Japan, Hirohito. The shapes are inspired by 50 rare and collectible frames the TVR® team found discarded in an old Sabae factory. The collections include the mainline TVR Collection and “YM” – the Yamada Mitsukazu collection. For details about frames in the collections launched for 2019, visit www.tvropt.comCN
If you’ve never before tried pastel tones, the coming season is a good time to explore their beauty. In eyewear, transparent crystal, with just a dash of colour, has become an ideal companion for contemporary apparel, with soft pink, mint, blue or grey (on-trend now) infused in the acetate with subtlety and modern appeal.
In tune with the mood, independent brand Lowercase has unveiled a set of modern tones in their made-in NYC collection, where mint green – a gorgeous hue in sync with the neo-mint palette – and tones like saffron are ideal choices for now – and months ahead.
Sziget festival has become one of Europe’s summer season musical highlights. Held each year in northern Budapest, the week-long event now attracts over 565,000 visitors and puts on around 1,000 performances. This year, the line up includes singer/songwriter Ed Sheeran, Post Malone and Twenty One Pilots from the US and Martin Garrix, DJ and record producer from The Netherlands.
As in previous years, all of the lead musicians/performers will receive special commemorative sunglasses made by Vinylize, the Budapest vinyl eyewear brand. Above: custom sunglasses by Vinylize await Ed Sheeran this week – where possible Zack Tipton makes the frames from the artist’s own vinyl – in this case he was able to use a copy of ‘Divide’ – Sheeran’s third album.
Vinylize was first commissioned to make sunglasses for Sziget when Zack Tipton, co-founder of the brand, had lunch with Károly Gerendai, the visionary behind the event. Gerendai appreciated the fit between Vinylize and Sziget instantly. After he sold 70% of his stake in the festival in 2018 to a US-based private equity firm, the new organizers saw the value of continuing to work with Vinylize and the relationship continues.
The Vinylize team arrives at Sziget the day before the festival begins and stays throughout. “We design and pre-make the sunglasses and take our buffing wheel, thermal equipment to form the frame to the performer’s face and sandpaper for the final touches. Much as we’d love it if the performers dropped into our store for fittings, we work from photographs. 90% of the time our frames fit pretty well, and we just need some minor adjustments.”
Antwerp is a creative force for emerging young designers. The city is home to avant-garde theo eyewear, and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. The lure of Antwerp and its stylish impact convinced German born Vincent Thürstein that The Royal Academy Fashion Department was where he wanted to study. Curiosity about a tribe in the Indian Ocean living apart from outer civilisation, sparked Vincent’s concept for his catwalk collection – Mokushiroku (above image) which in Japanese means apocalypse. In a reimagined post-apocalyptic civilisation, people will be just as prone to need eyewear as we are. Vincent knocked on theo’s door, Serge Bracké responded, and a dynamic collaboration was formed.
Vincent used inspirations from Japanese fisherman, Korean female divers, Rodchenko sculptures, Marcel Breuer and other sources to create his binoculars that bear a similarity to fishermen’s diving goggles. “I wanted to combine natural materials such as horn with metal components for the constructional elements,” said Vincent, “And Serge and I worked on the oxidation processes of the frame surface in the same way as I experimented with fabrics in my collection.”
When Vincent’s fashion silhouettes appeared on the catwalk, the smart details on the outfits and the softly muted but pleasing colour palette gave a reassuring glow. Theo x Vincent eyewear added the finishing touch to Mokushiroku. For more trailblazing eyewear designs visit www.theo.be JG
The Crafting Plastics Studio – award-winning innovators in materials and design – are a highlight of the V&A’s latest exhibition looking at food and farming and sustainable practices for the future.
Described as a multi-sensory exhibition, there are opportunities to participate by tasting or touching items on display, and overall the exhibition features more than 70 contemporary projects, new commissions and creative collaborations by artists and designers who are working with chefs, farmers, scientists and local communities.
Part of the discussion falls on creative projects using food products in innovative ways. A central feature of this section is the extensive work of Crafting Plastics who have created a type of compostable bioplastic, named Nuatan, from corn, starch, sugar and cooking oil. Colours are achieved using natural pigments such as turmeric or coffee.
Founded in 2016 by product designer Vlasta Kubušová and production designer Miroslav Král, Crafting Plastics has achieved consistent recognition for the material from the design world owing to its extraordinary versatility (it can be injection moulded, 3d printed or blow-formed) and eco-friendly properties, which include not being harmful to fish. Their first collection (‘Collection 1’) of biocompatible biodegradable sunglasses was exhibited at Salone del Mobile Milan in 2016 and since then they have won several awards which include Forbes 30 under 30 in 2018. The most recent project, Collection 4, features a series of handmade lighting objects. For more information about Crafting Plastics visit www.craftingplastics.com
FOOD: Bigger than the Plate runs until Sunday, 20th October 2019 at the V&A, South Kensington, London. www.vam.ac.uk
“Eyewear is the biggest accessory; it can change your whole mood”, declares fashion designer Vera Wang. The new optical styles from the celebrated designer enhance both mood and style mode. The latest releases are feminine and glamorous, featuring contemporary silhouettes in sophisticated colourations. Whether a graceful butterfly shape; a round semi-rimless in metal and acetate; or the beautiful square acetate Deryn (above), the selections are stunning. A waterfall Swarovski crystal pattern decoratively highlights the corners at the front of Deryn. Vera Wang’s eyewear, dresses and bridal wear all reflect her modern, pared-down approach to fashion and lifestyle. See more Vera Wang eyewear designs at www.kenmarkeyewear.comJG
The Mono-glass is part of RCA fashion graduate Yi Wen Lim’s SOFT POWER project (RCA 2019). SOFT POWER celebrates women at work and represents a new image of power and femininity.
RCA Fashion (Womenswear) graduate Yi Wen Lim has produced a stunning, wearable Mono-glass as part of a finals project entitled SOFT POWER. The jewellery collection was designed in collaboration with Yi Wen Lim’s close jeweller friend Agatha (Instagram: @raccoonandbabiesofficial), and explores re-appropriating jewellery in the formal workplace. Above: Model Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstein wears Yi Wen Lim’s design
Highlights in the collection include the merging of power pearls with everyday work accessories, stationery and tech wearables – these pieces include a biro pen cap ear cuff, Airpods pearl necklace, ID Badge necklace and the Mono-glass with Hair-clip.
“The Mono-glass is inspired by work glasses that women wear, sometimes as a means to establish their intelligence and competence,” says the designer. “It is also inspired by tech accessories like the Google Glass, which perhaps can one day be integrated into more ‘aestheticised’ designs like the SOFT POWER Mono-glass,” she explains.
Yi Wen Lim’s friend/muse Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstien (www.mercedesvonthun.com) wore the monocle design at the RCA finals presentation in London in June – and immediately caught our eye. “I found her through Instagram @mvthun21,” said Yi Wen Lim. “She is a mature model, and has been very generous with her time and support for me. She has modelled for my presentations and for video and photoshoots. We have become close over the past few months, and we are now great friends.” For more information about Yi Wen Lim’s work visit her page on Instagram – @__wenlim. Other RCA posts on Eyestylist: https://www.eyestylist.com/2016/12/rca-x-100-optical/CN
Fresh colours, fun shapes and fashion preferences enhance the immense variety available in children’s eyewear. With so many inspiring choices, youngsters can select frame styles that adapt to their individual personality. From toddlers to teens, children’s eyewear has a unique path with creative frames by international companies who take youngster’s style savvy knowledge into consideration. Danish label LINDBERG features innovative design for kids with the air titanium rim collection. With expertly crafted lightweight shapes, colours and safety elements with high density kid appeal – the air titanium rim designs are available in a variety of colours, including Jackie in two-tone green (above image). www.lindberg.com
The Next Generation is celebrated by Götti Switzerland with children’s designs using futuristic 3D printing. The stunning results are personalised frames that are light, flexible, stylish and sleek. Two new beautiful colours are welcome additions to the collection – Flamingo and Pool (above). The designs are constructed in Götti’s Swiss factory, with no screws or soldered joints, yet the Dimension Next frames are robust and will successfully withstand youthful antics and adventures. Contented children – and mothers – report that their children enjoy the uncluttered styling, comfort and stability of the Next Generation Dimension designs. www.gotti.ch
Cultural richness and artistic excitement inspire the 2019 Kids and Teens collection by JF Rey. A street-art spirit embraces the geometric and graphic shapes, available in acetate and metal. Youngsters from the age of 4-16 can find frame shapes energised with beautiful colours in the wide variety of designs available in the JF Rey Kids and Teens selections. Kids will love to wear the compact round shape Slide (above) delicately scaled for small faces with exclusive hues and innovative styling. Discover more spirited designs for children at www.jfrey.fr
Quality, durability, fashion and fine styling – you’ll find them all in the Lafont Paris children’s collection. The latest designs (including Entrechat for girls above image) combine vintage concepts with technical expertise, and stunning colour combinations. Entrechat reveals a subtle and graceful feline influence, with a three-dimensional perspective. Shown in blue with camel, Entrechat is also available in Red, Black and Tortoise. Explore more Lafont Paris designs for infants to teenagers at www.lafont.comJG