Gracing the catwalks again in Milan this week, Delirious Eyewear joins a line-up of designer fashion collections in the Italian fashion capital. An iconic balance of classic materials and sharp architectural shapes are characterised by subtle natural colorations of caramel, black or delicate animal prints. Model Cheetah is the statement trapezoidal design of the collection, with a sharp slightly squared shape and decadent super flat lenses (by Zeiss) to hide behind.
“We search for a style that consists of simple lines and minimalistic shapes which are passively influenced by our deep knowledge of the eyewear sector….” Marco Lanero, Delirious
About Delirious Eyewear – Delirious Eyewear is an award-winning independent label based in Milan. With a close relationship to the Milan fashion scene, the label has been recognised by Vogue Talent Italy and continues to innovate in manufacture and production methods through a close relationship with experts in Cadore, Italy and Japan. The collections feature Mazzucchelli acetate, buffalo horn and titanium materials.
Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Model @_piakarl_. For details about Delirious Eyewear visitwww.deliriouseyewear.comCN
The soothing, atmospheric beauty of Skagen, Denmark’s most northerly village, has long inspired painters, writers and designers to visit its windswept shorelines, pine forests and dunes.
Most famous were the Skagen Painters, a group of Scandinavian artists who settled in the village to portray the remarkable scenery – and the unique quality of light that had drawn them to the spectacular spot at the tip of mainland Jutland.
Reflecting on their iconic paintings, eyewear label FLEYE Copenhagen’s design team have come up with their own inspirational artwork experimenting with a variety of materials and their different characteristics; they play with matte and shiny surfaces, soft natural light, color contrasts, and beautiful reflections, highlights of the paintings that most inspired their studies.
“Each frame becomes its own artistic expression when textures are combined, colours are chosen and reflections are created.”
The result is a series of frames (including model Asger, top) inspired by the colours and textures of the team’s ‘abstract’ art works, photographed by Ida Emilie Risager. Design concepts such as transparency, depth and structure have been applied to create the collection using a mix of materials from light acetates, to warm carbon/wood and beta-titanium. Each design has a link to the works of art, balancing the technical precision of the Danish company’s frame construction with unusual art-focused design elements and colours.
The Nordic Light eyewear collection launches shortly at the SILMO fair (trade fair) in Paris. Find out more about Fleye frames at : www.fleye.dkCN
Amidst Extinction Rebellion environmental protests, demonstrations against leather in fashion, LFW photographers and the so-called style influencers, the crowds heading to the shows or lingering outside provide a fashion preview for autumn/winter 19 street style in the British capital. For eyewear, the variety was a talking point with a hugely eclectic mix of frames and sunglasses, from poorly styled to beautifully unique – with some very obvious over worn brand-emblazoned sunnies as well as a penchant for vintage, and mega trends of 2019 – mini Matrix shapes, the cateye (strong also in NYC) or the oversized visor and mask.
This weekend, some of the coolest looks in the city at the venues – both for glasses and sunglasses – showed there is growing confidence in understated, simple or pared back design – especially where there is an architectural detail or retro 80s/90s influenced silhouette. Above: Fashion artist @tayisiya_ph in all black, paired with a statement wide brim hat and structured timeless rectangular specs.
Our review of some of the eyewear spotted on London’s streets and at LFW will be published this coming week – follow us on Instagram @eyestylistmagazine. Top image: London Fashion Week photography by Cesare Riccardi, exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN
To a well trained eye, crystal tones (in eyewear) can vary dramatically. The most refined offer a delicate elegance due to the quality of the cellulose acetate, and the precision in tumbling and hand finishing to create the desired rich lustre or shine.
Consistent in their choice of strong and flexible Japanese cellulose acetate, SALT. Optics, the Californian eyewear brand works with a wide yet subtle palette of colours and superb clear crystal and smokey tints. The brand plays with the trending tinted crystal tones which are flattering to the complexion – often using colorations and a mix of tones inspired by the natural world, the sea, the earth and the sky. Above: model Sophia by SALT. Optics, in Smokey Grey with CR39 Denim Gradient polarized lenses. The finely crafted metal core is visible inside the clear acetate, a design touch that revisits the crafted finish of vintage eyewear.
This season, the models in the C2-19 collection include a range of finely crafted ophthalmic frames with natural tones of toasted toffee and brushed honey gold through to the sophisticated translucent smoke grey of model Gerry, pictured above.
One of the classic tones of sunglass model Andy, combines a delicate smoke grey and a bolder coloration in tea on the temples. A unisex panto design, this statement frame highlights the contrast of the metal hard ware – with plaques and pins, designed to last – lending a classic hallmark of quality to each design.
About SALT. Optics – SALT. is a premium eyewear brand from coastal California that is committed to quality frame construction and timeless design, inspired by effortless beauty. Combining high-grade materials with third generation Japanese craftsmanship, SALT. makes timeless eyewear designed for anyone who appreciates natural simplicity and lasting design. www.saltoptics.comCN
New main line titanium styles by Blackfin are hot off the press for the Autumn season, with a careful focus on innovative technical details and uncompromising quality construction – features that have long been at the heart of this tech-loving, innovation-driven family firm. The five shapes releasing include a panto-inspired frame called Bayou, a classically round Blackfin design with ultra-flex titanium bridge and temples in beta titanium – a material selected for its extra strength and flexibility when combined with titanium.
The color palette for Bayou ranges from the more masculine – dark blue paired with a bright red (below), black or midnight blue – to the more feminine shades of blush pink or midnight blue combined with the brightest tone of magenta.
All the new styles in the range are fitted with tilting nose pads and Blackfin’s Swordfish temple tips. Find them at Silmo Paris this month and visit the website for all the latest releases as they appear at www.blackfin.eu. CN
The founders of the Northern Swedish company EOE have created the first edition of eyewear made from recycled broken and discarded plastic eyewear. The collection and campaign launch this month in Paris.
Commitment to research. Investment in new technology for recycling. And admirable perseverance to set up a workable system for recycling frames in Sweden in a collaboration with the Nordic company Synsam and Vision for All. The founders of EOE Erik and Emilia Lindmark have worked for over three years on the recycling project to create a frame material with performance properties comparable to new acetate and an aesthetic finish and choice of colorations suitable for the creation of high-quality trend-focused products.
Launching the concept with the Regrind edition of three sunglasses, attention has been placed on creating a chic look in the coloration using predominantly black frames for the “regrinding” process. Tiny smatterings of minute coloured frame pieces are just visible, and create a textured effect on the surface, the look of which is wholly dependent on the types of frames recycled, the predominant colours of the frame pieces and the quality of the acetate of the old frames. Above: EOE’s new video illustrates the concept developed by EOE for turning old unwanted eyewear into a recycled material for new chic eyewear.
Regrind debuts as a fashion collection in a stunning campaign by fashion photographers Peter Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago (www.faragofarago.com) which highlights the idiosyncrasies of the material in a beautiful wild and natural Swedish landscape.
EOE recycled acetate material is produced by EOE together with engineers, chemists and physicists. The frames are shattered into small pieces and the metal parts are then filtered out. The plastic pieces then undergo a regrinding process to create new blocks of raw material. 98% of the old eyewear is recyclable. EOE uses recycled steel from Sweden to produce the metal parts of the frames. In August the company was recognised by Encouragement for Action – Stockholm Fashion District in the “closing the loop” category, part of an award scheme to raise awareness and bring attention to important ideas in sustainability, digitization and fashion tech.
Bespoke Limited Edition by master craftsman, Sawada-Yaemon – Sabae Japan
A new special edition “James Dean” inspired collection from Japan – bound for Europe this month – gives expression to the heritage and craftsmanship of Sabae eyewear makers dedicated to traditional ‘tried and tested’ production techniques, and expert craft work passed down through families.
The “JD” spectacles by TVR®, focusing on the classic rounded “horn-rim” style made famous by James Dean, are created in a strong Zylonite material (4mm thick) with metal core identified by a very fine handcrafted embellishment of Japanese engraving inspired by The Great Wave of Kanagawa, the woodblock print by ukiyo-e artist Hokusai. Above: TVR® Arnel®, European Edition – Kanagawa Metal Core Design
Craftsman Sawada-Yaemon whose family has a multi-generational reputation in eyewear production has been put in charge of the complete production of the limited edition. The Yaemon family whose ancestors date back to the Edo period, is the first to perfect the iconic TVR® Arnel® shape using traditional measuring techniques.
Meticulously recreated by hand, the unmistakable vintage design of the JD shape is enhanced with SPM (Sun Platinum Metal) spear rivets, a keyhole bridge, 7-barrel hinges and miter cutting by hand. Every detail, from the tumbling and polishing to each bend that’s perfected by hand represents the revival of TVR® Arnel® based on the original blueprint from 1948.
The European edition is released in seven colours with emphasis on delicate crystal tones – a Japanese specialty – and sophisticated neutrals including Amazing Grey Black, Black Dark Brown, Classic Black, Demi Brown Amber, Grey Gradient, Olive Clear and Yellow Crystal. The European Edition is designed as a special edition to recognise the support of TVR customers outside Japan since the label was first created in 2014. For more information visit:www.tvropt.comCN
Imagination and thinking “outside the box” highlights the thriving individuality and creativity of independent, global eyewear designers. Next week (15th and 16th September) in Zurich, this elegant Swiss city on the lake, is the ideal opportunity to discover over forty gifted creators who bring new concepts, dimensions, and spirit to eyewear. Organiser Nathanaël Wenger noted: “We’ve had lots of activity and interest in the Zurich show; and even with many changes in the optical sector, the market for independents is stable and strong. Opticians know how to focus and increasingly choose independent brands. So we are really positive.”
From Andy Wolf to You Mawo, the roll call of participating brands in HOF Zurich is impressive, energetic and artistic. Companies recognised on an international level, as well as newcomers, are participating in the two-day event as Papiersaal, an historic location in the centre of this vibrant, beautiful Swiss city. Glossy acetate and minimalist titanium designs grace the masterful variety of frames by Orgreen (top image). Japanese architecture inspires the newest collection, with stunning shapes and colours www.orgreen.dk
Nature and beautiful surroundings in the Austrian region of Styria is the keynote to the latest Andy Wolf designs. In an expressive collection with innovative silhouettes and chic colourations, you’ll discover diverse frames that also reflect Andy Wolf’s commitment to sustainable use of resources. www.andy-wolf.com
Danish Titanium specialist LINDBERG launches the autumn season with a striking collection of chic designs for men and women. Exquisite detailing, and attention to every aspect of frame creation, has enabled LINDBERG to become a recognised leader and award-winner in luxury eyewear. www.lindberg.com
Fassungswerk is a small Swiss brand also inspired by Nature with their crafting of unconventional frames in acetate and horn. Quality, precision and experimental styling characterises their young contemporary concept. www.fassungswerk.ch
Parisian designer Caroline Abram dresses up women’s eyes with glamour and elegance, as well as dashing and daring concepts. Caroline’s latest dazzling optical and sunglass designs in creative colourations and marvellous shapes, are the ideal accessories for autumn/winter fashions – holidays too! www.carolineabram.com
Come enjoy and experience exciting, new eyewear with independent creators in Zurich on the 15th and 16th September at Papiersaal…a remarkable place to discover exclusively produced designs with profound pedigrees. For the full list of exhibitors and more details, visit www.hallofframes.chJG
A new exhibition highlighting the creative talents of Belgian artisans takes place in Brussels this month. Ateliers Gabriel proposes an opportunity to get close to some of Belgium’s most accomplished craftsmen and women with an exhibition of the recent work and presentation of a selection of tools and photographs from the workshops which explore the expertise and precision that goes into the different handmade pieces.
“A world of passion and patience, where time and attention to detail make all the difference…” Substance Exhibition
Ateliers Gabriel is a project designed to represent high calibre Belgian workshops in ‘crafts, decorative arts and art of living’. Members of the group who will be highlighted in the exhibition include the bespoke eyewear maker Lunetier Ludovic (www.eyestylist.com/2019/01/lunetier-ludovic-brussels-belgium/), Atelier Mestdagh, makers of stained glass, Niyona, the fine leather goods specialist and furniture maker Alexandre Lowie.
Maison Johanne Riss, Rue de la grosse tour, 3, 1000 Brussels from 19-21 September 2019. For more information about Ateliers Gabriel: www.ateliersgabriel.be CN
The Silmo fair in September (international trade fair) is the pinnacle of the “eyewear designers” calendar of events, and provides our eyes with a feast of colour and innovation in design from well-known, new and up-and-coming labels who descend on Paris for several days. It’s the place we love to scout for innovation, new trends, and unique eyewear and accessories from all around the world.
Joining the line up are many companies who return to the event every year. The Marseilles designer Jean-François Rey launches new designs across multiple collections at the event, with a principal focus on expertise in colour, design creativity and beautiful French artisan quality. Highlights this year will include the new Wave collection (above) – an architecture-inspired eyewear concept using stainless steel to create lightweight, airy structures with a “folding effect” achieved by hand. Gorgeous hand applied colour combinations provide an eye-catching effect on the face. www.jfrey.fr
From Sweden, Oscar Magnuson returns each year to Paris, this time with a bio-acetate collection that marries a bold structural look with the quality and pared-down purity of high-quality Swedish design. The sunglasses collection in the same material include some statement micro shapes (model Sid) and oversized classics (model Debbie) and across the lines you will find a palette of monochrome tones such as urban green, crystal grey and deep ink – a deep sophisticated and moody tone that makes a clever alternative to black. www.oscarmagnuson.com
Their first time showing to the international audience at Silmo, Diffuser Tokyo – by Masaki Hirose – will reveal its comprehensive high-quality range of accessories which include cases, frame holders and eyewear pouches in a fresh concept that highlights quality materials and well designed functional products. Preview their ranges at www.diffuser-tokyo.com. We are already big fans.
Brand new crystal colorations and nature-infused tones are a feature for next year’s sunglasses collections. Californian label SALT. Optics is introducing new styles in their C2-19 collection which is poised to deliver beautiful heritage-inspired eyewear, made in Japan with exclusive quality features (incredible hardware through to chic glass lenses) and subtle colorations of dusty rose, hazy taupe, mojave and whiskey (above). Find out more at www.saltoptics.com
Another new name at Silmo this year, Mr Lenoir is the official brand of former football player Djibril Cissé, with optical and sunglass designs created in partnership with Laurent Balducelli, a French optician and specialist in bespoke eyewear. Produced in Montbeliard in France, the eclectic range of styles are made from Mazzucchelli acetate and in some cases feature metal laser cutting and chemical etching. They are available at a few independent stores already, both in and outside France. For more information visit their Instagram page @mrlenoirlunettes.
For luxurious, cutting-edge design, the Swiss brand Von Arkel stands apart in its achievements in applying the technical precision and craftsmanship of watchmaking to luxury frames, produced by master craftsmen in Morges in Switzerland. New sophisticated concepts will show on the Von Arkel stand at the Paris show this month: www.vonarkel.com
Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visitwww.silmoparis.comWatch our Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!
As The Matrix trend and tiny sunnies slightly wane in favour of oversized and “in your face” shelds and visors, miniature proportions for ophthalmic glasses are an essential look for autumn/winter. Several cutting-edge brands have just released interpretations of the look; they combine shapes we last saw trending in the 1990s with state-of-the-art materials and finishes for the contemporary twist. Above: 90s style glasses by Götti Switzerland
Götti Switzerland have launched lightweight models Gardin and Gafin for Autumn, a minimal expression of a 90s design in fine Japanese titanium, adjusting the look with contemporary influences for A/W 2019/20. The fine design features include narrow metal temple tips and a pure linear style. www.gotti.ch
The youthful Austrian label – neubau eyewear – also has some wire revival designs launching this month, produced in filigree stainless steel. The frames are light and have a barely-there effect on the face, gently outlining the expression of the eyes with oval and almond silhouettes.
Model Virginia by neubau has an almond eye shape and is available in a choice of colours: matte rose, glorious gold and matte ink black. Find out more about this eyewear label at www.neubau-eyewear.comCN
Sebastian Zenetti is the Co-Founder of the award-winning 3d printed eyewear label, You Mawo. The brand is pioneering a new form of 3D printed made-to-measure eyewear, which uses an ipad to take a scan of the head.
For any one who doesn’t know You Mawo, how would you explain what you are doing in the context of luxury 3D printed eyewear? We have formed a team of experts from areas outside eyewear, from optics, IT, product development, design, and business/economics. Our focus is to find new technologies, to bring them to eyewear and generate something innovative with added value for the customer. Among other things, we use the latest and most innovative production technology.
Who was originally the brains behind the brand and how has the team grown since you first launched in 2016 in Germany? You Mawo was created by four founders. Stephan Grotz is head of IT development and has more than 20 years’ experince with data analytics and algorithmic parametrisation. Daniel Szabo is head of finance and and business development. Daniel Miko is head of Design and product development. I take care of our sales team and customer support. After 3 and a half years we have grown from 4 to 40. We are developing everything by ourselves and as much as possible through our team.
What exactly is different about a You Mawo 3d printed design? And what are the frames made of? We use a special kind of polyamide from the medical industry. This material is 30% lighter than acetate and much more durable. It has great thermal properties and is adjustable with heat. Our production technology is called selective laser sintering and it is the industrial version of 3D Printing. The frames are produced, layer by layer. The benefit of this technology is that we can produce individual frames quickly and easily, and we produce as good as no waste, which makes this method completely sustainable.
As well as the main collection, you have created some pretty wild one-off frames including a cool thick framed limited edition. Can you tell us about these. These are our ‘design lab’ frames: we wanted to be able to showcase the possibilities we have with 3D printing. Our first concept in this series is ‘Metamorphosis’. Model Malina was inspired by the first sunglasses on Earth, created in bone by the Inuit.
How did you get into eyewear in the first place? – what is your previous career path and what attracted you to 3D printing? My family owns optical stores and I trained as an optician. Then I met Daniel Miko and Daniel Szabo. We realised instantly we had something in common: we are all very interested in new technologies. At some point on a backpacking trip to Southern Asia, we were talking about customization and we came up with a complete concept: You Mawo was born.
Can you give us a sneak peak of what is happening for you at the Silmo trade fair and what we can expect from the brand in 2020? This month we will launch four new models in our Design lab collection where our Designers and product development team can show what is possible with new technology. 2020 is extremely exciting for us too. We will launch new innovations including some new advanced software tools. We are hugely looking forward to the future and we can’t wait to reveal what else we are working on. For more information about You Mawo visit www.youmawo.comCN
The luxury accessories brand La Loop is celebrating 20 years in the business with a gorgeous holiday capsule and sophisticated new entries for autumn/winter. The designs offer a mix of classic La Loop style and new glamorous shapes and colours, with pieces that were around when the brand first launched, and 2019 iterations.
“I was inspired by Lucio Fontana’s Earth & Gold exhibition at the Borghese gallery in Rome,” explains California based designer Elizabeth Faraut. “Fontana’s 20th century gold metallic abstract paintings were placed next to classic sculptures and paintings by Bernini and Raphael. Fontana, an abstract artist whose body of work spanned the 1920s-50s, was the pioneer of spatialism, a movement which intended to synthesize colour, sound, space, movement, and time into a new type of art.”
Overall, the collection showcases the richness of material with distinctive details that make these pieces extremely collectible. And for Silmo release, Faraut promises something for everyone: “From supple metallic Italian leather, to multi-colored Tiger’s Eye beads, chunky gold and oversized acetate links, we bring you a breadth of texture, shape, and colour. We’re offering boxy, biker-inspired gender-neutral box chains, opulent gold plated bling, and a selection of premium solid sterling necklaces made by the same family-run NY jewelry manufacturer who made our very first La Loop necklace.”
In celebration of 20 years, La Loop has launched the ‘Loop In’ campaign which focuses on honoring people who are making a difference in their local communities. The goal is to have 10,000 people ‘loop in’ and share their personal journeys of how they shape their communities – by 2020. For more on the campaign, visit the Instagram page @la_loop . For more information and to purchase direct at the online store, visit www.laloop.comCN