Eyewear directions: Hall of Frames

The popular annual eyewear fair Hall of Frames (Zurich, Switzerland) has issued imagery from its new season shoot which took place on site at Papiersaal over a sunny weekend in September. The frames featured include a mix of advanced materials, from  lightweight titanium to 3d printed designs, with state-of-the-art details, classically inspired shapes and interesting finishes and treatments. Above: Ørgreen Optics Coeda 964, produced in 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium. www.orgreenoptics.com Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Funk eyewear model Authari Raw in a crystal finish / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Dieter Funk’s acetate frames, produced in Bavaria, Germany, lean toward classic or timeless design principles, with modern updates taking the form of special colorations and material/tonal combinations. For more details: www.funkbrillen.com

Coblens: Endlos 7 rimless design

The Endlos series by Gmerna-based company Coblens combines titanium temples with modern rimless fronts; the frame front and sides are attached to the lenses with small antique inspired screws with a hexagonal shape. www.coblens.com

Ørgreen Optics: less-is-more in the Quantum collection

Quantum spectacles have an outstanding spherical hinge design and light construction in 3D printed polyamide. The innovative choice of subtle and bright colours is one of many highlights of the Danish brand’s eyewear expertise. www.orgreenoptics.com / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé for Hall of Frames: https://www.ninamariaglahe.com/All rights reserved.

The next edition of Hall of Frames will take place on 13th and 14th September 2020. For more details, visit www.hallofframes.ch CN

Beyond chic: minimal metals

The metal frames of the moment are a sign that 2020 will be another good one for a more minimal style in eyewear. In Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, the coolest metal frames worn out on the street were neither mini nor oversized, fitting the face to perfection with interesting shapes, angled or geometric forms (octagons and hexagons) in metal tones, and particularly shiny steel, gun and black. Above: fashion influencer Megan Adelaide Schaefer in a black metal frame photographed at Paris Fashion Week by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Optical chic: MMCRAFT011 by MYKITA + MAISON MARGIELA: a precious engraving is just visible to the naked eye on the bridge and temples

Very, very narrow rimmed frames – whether sun or optical, as above at Mykita, deliver a sharp yet simple style softened with the subtle vintage inspired engraving, in a successful blend of nostalgic and futuristic elements. www.mykita.com

Milan Fashion Week: stunning 3-sided metal rim frame

Clean, pared back designs with dark grey or black lens for sunglasses provide streamlined modes that are visual but less showy that in previous seasons with attention paid to craftsmanship and finesse for a simple unembellished but elegant way of dressing.

Monarch by L.G.R: a metal front with a striking cat eye form

Cat eye inspired metal shapes, such as Monarch by L.G.R (www.lgrworld.com), are contemporary and striking, balancing glamour and a feminine identity in the shape; the colours of the Monarch are in line with the minimal mood and include matt copper (above) matt black and grey with flat zero base sun lenses made from mineral glass for 100% UV protection and comfort. For more on trending styles, visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/paris-fashion-week-ss20/CN

 

Guo Pei couture for Fashion in Motion

20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion – Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion, the V&A will be hosting a presentation by the acclaimed Chinese couturier Guo Pei. Famed for designing Rihanna’s yellow gown worn at the 2015 Met Gala, Guo Pei is one of China’s most spectacular designers, dressing celebrities, royalty and the style icons for over 20 years.

Fashion in Motion: Guo Pei will be the designer’s first ever show in the UK and will showcase looks from her AW 2019/20 Alternate Universe Couture collection inside the museum’s iconic Raphael Gallery on Friday 1st November 2019. Above: Guo Pei ‘Alternate Universe Fall-Winter 2019/20 – coming to #FashioninMotion at the V&A

Guo Pei: creative couture – ‘Alternate Universe’

Fashion in Motion is the V&A’s key fashion event enabling anyone to take a seat on the front row. Providing a platform for both established and up- and-coming designers, the regular series presents free-to-attend runway shows for the public and has previously featured Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Yohji Yamamoto.

Guo Pei first presented her Alternate Universe collection at this year’s Paris Couture Week. The collection is based on the idea of a new universe where light and darkness co- exist, angels and demons sit next to one another and magical creatures creep out of the shadows. Combining the use of pineapple hemp fabric, Lafite embroidery and her signature three- dimensional embroidery techniques, the collection conjures up vivid images of mystical creatures from a different realm. Drawing inspiration from myths, fables, religious texts and the beauty of natural life, animal and insect motifs feature heavily throughout the collection, from the monkeys of Aesop’s Fables to the poisonous snake which lured Eve to steal the forbidden fruit.

Details: decorative Chinese embroidery

Guo Pei has established herself as one of the most inventive designers working today. Showcasing the finest of traditional Chinese craftsmanship while incorporating contemporary innovation, her designs take inspiration from myths, legends, architecture, and her cultural heritage. Free tickets will be released for the catwalk events from 21st October 2019 at

https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/fashion-in-motion-guo-pei CN

Matali Crasset X theo: Dialogues

Creative energies are running particularly high at theo this year, in preparation for 2020. SILMO saw an ingenious spread of collections, among them a fresh collaborative series – the third of its kind for theo – with designer Matali Crasset. ‘Dialogues’ explores conversation and chat, with focus on the two eyewear basics – the lens and whatever goes around it; how the two interact together or relate beyond the classic ‘glasses’ form becomes a feature and a “talking point” – without constraint in the construction or the technical finesse (of course!). Above: Model Debate, in fluo pink, by theo X Matali Crasset

Model Talk – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

“The shape of the lenses is radically different from what Matali has created before” theo eyewear

Expressive, comfortable, surprisingly easy to wear. The result is six titanium styles with Crasset’s “signature” which bring a unique focus to the eyes of the wearer. Single colours emphasise the drama of the openwork and “floating effects”, exploring a bold vision, in theo style – with exquisite tones of fluo pink and orange through to sophisticated monochrome black or white – the two colours that Crasset wears herself.

Model Gossip – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Dialogues by theo X Matali Crasset was launched in Paris in September 2019; the frames will shortly become available in theo opticians worldwide. The collaborators have simultaneously launched ‘Blurred’, an even more ‘rebellious’ limited edition related to the Dialogues designs and created solely in black and white.

Matali Crasset is an industrial designer from France.  She has become known for a refusal of pure shape in her work and develops new typologies articulated around principles such as modularity, appropriation, and flexibility. She has worked on far-reaching projects in different disciplines and with leading brands including Alessi, Nodus and Le Buisson. For more information visit www.theo.be / www.matalicrasset.com CN

The Galápagos Collection by Tyche & Iset Eyewear

A fresh, luxury sunglasses collection, produced in premium materials from young LA-based female designer Morganne Leigh takes inspiration from the Galápagos Islands and its untamed flora and fauna. Highlights include model ‘Las Iguanas’ a timeless, unisex oval shape with creative details that simulate the textures and features of the islands’ most prominent lizard species.

“The Marine Iguana species can only be found on the Galápagos Islands. It is the only lizard species on Earth that lives on land, but swims in the sea to forage and feed on algae. Through evolution, it’s snout has been perfectly formed for this task; this inspired our nose bridge shape.” Morganne Leigh, Tyche & Iset

Details: Las Iguanas with signature music note temple charm and sculptured nose bridge

Her third unique collection to date, Leigh has a fresh, innovative touch in eyewear design and an experimental creative vision, coming from other arts disciplines and having trained as a painter and graphic designer. The new collection is a beautiful representation of her work, with details and finishes that are subtly tied to the magical natural volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean.

A participant of the Elaine Gold Launch Pad Program 2018-19, the designer recently won the prestigious emerging designers award with the CFDA and Accessories Council (a USA award) gaining new funding to further execute new ideas toward technology, sustainability, and innovation for her brand which she first launched in 2014. For further details on her new Galápagos styles at Tyche & Iset, visit https://www.tycheandiset.com/collections/the-galapagos-collection.For previous features on Eyestylist with Tyche and Iset visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/04/feminine-for-s-s18-4-unique-designs/ CN

Motown history: The Esther by Vinylize

Vinylize has launched the Hitsville U.S.A. Sunglasses collection, designed by the Budapest brand and launched for the Motown 60 Weekend, a Detroit event that marked its diamond anniversary this year.

“One of our favorite customers is Dr. Joe Ales of the fantastic Birmingham, Michigan, OPTIK eyewear store. And one of his customers is Brian Stevenson, a high-powered Detroit marketing consultant who works with the Motown Museum”, explains Zack Tipton on how the parnership came about. “Brian spotted Vinylize at OPTIK and realized that making glasses out of Motown vinyl to help commemorate Motown 60 was a fantastic, synergistic idea.”

The Esther and the Chairman, Limited Edition models from Vinylize

The brand has created two cool vinyl models, The Esther and The Chairman limited to 100 pieces per model. Vinylize is giving 20% of sales from The Hitsville U.S.A. Sunglasses Collection to support the Motown Museum Expansion plan. “This will go towards growing the museum – already a must-see destination for visitors to Detroit – into a 50,000-square-foot world-class entertainment and education tourist destination,” they explain. “When it’s completed, the museum will have a transformative impact on the surrounding Detroit neighborhoods, providing employment, sustainability and community pride.”

Vinylize is a Budapest brand run by husband and wife team Yulia and Zack Tipton. Their frames are produced in Hungary using old “unwanted” vinyl records. The label is unique in the eyewear industry in the use of the material and has strong ties with the music industry worldwide through collaborations and special editions produced for events such as Sziget (Hungary). For more information visit  https://vinylize.com – Find OPTIK eyewear store at www.optikbirmingham.com CN

Paris Fashion Week SS20

A little less sunshine (and fewer sunglasses on the street) but just as beautiful as ever, Paris Fashion Week’s street style looks were bold and breathtaking or deeply influenced by tradition. In eyewear, a sincere love and respect for heritage and classic couture was evident across the city with vintage designs and clean architectural shapes in muted tones being most popular with all generations. Above: Anna Dello Russo wearing an oversized mask in black. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Russian Model Alina wears thick rimmed tortoise sunglasses with leopard print

The cat’s eye continued to enjoy a spectacular showing at Paris, as in London and NYC – with all versions, from small and sleek to large or elongated worn by women – and increasingly, men too.

Elongated cat’s eyes: @kandelissa @mikhaelkale – Photo by Gennaro D’Elia

The elongated and sharply pointed cat’s eyes worn by many celebrities are still in vogue with the darker colours remaining the most elegant trend-driven statement for a striking finish or unique look – above, worn by Jessica (@kandelissa) with Mikhael Kale (SS20).

Leila Depina #PFW in small round sunnies

Metal frames have really taken off with a few particular shapes such as small rounds and ovals doing well. Our sightings of these styles indicated that this trend is strong and still growing.

Caro Daur : Valentino – photo by Gennaro D’Elia

With less rays throughout the week there was a chance to catch some models and influencers in glamorous glasses. Caroline Daur (influencer, blogger and entrepreneur – www.carodaur.com) wore a classic black cat eye with head to toe Valentino for the @maisonvalentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN

Silmo Paris: notes on what’s to come

Silmo is a key event in the optical fair calendar where we discover innovations, new directions and trends in eyewear for the season ahead. This year, the breadth of creative proposals was significant, and attendance by independent labels showed a strong movement toward individual design, high level production and experimental work and expertise in colour, materials and eco-oriented design.

At Silmo, Tavat Eyewear showed their new avant-garde SpamCan Collection, the next step on from SoupCan, inspired by the quadratical shape of the iconic spam can or tin. Made from an impressive material composed of bronze, zinc and nickel, this new departure is highly technical and elaborate, with 27 components and a hinge based on the high-precision Swiss watch crown mechanism. The sunglasses are fitted with melanin sunglass lenses. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.com

Metamorphosis by You Mawo

You Mawo’s showpieces at Silmo included the Metamorphosis 3D printed Limited series and a visor design (above) with futuristic 3D side pieces. The main line has also expanded with some strong fashion shapes (cateye model Lyra) and a beautiful round design called Selene. www.youmawo.com

 

SUSTAIN by Monoqool

Monoqool launched the SUSTAIN sunglasses, a first 3d printed design made from castor beans farmed sustainably in India through the Pragati Initiative (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHe1N43IN8o ). The company has entered the Sustain programme supported by the AM-Hub organisation in Denmark with the goal of helping a selected number of small/medium size Danish companies to develop sustainable manufacturing via 3D print technology. www.monoqool.com

Passion for purple at Kirk & Kirk

Kirk & Kirk have done much to promote the benefits of colourful eyewear proposals from the UK, and continue to put out glorious colorations, in both their Centena and Kaleidscope collections, with emphasis on new tones of blue, pink and mauve. www.kirkandkirk.com

ROLF Spectacles: Titanium Skyline – advanced tech + crafting

The Skyline collection at ROLF Spectacles is exceptional in its avantgarde designs in 3D printed titanium. The new styles have stunning combinations of smooth and textured ‘volcanic-like’ surfaces as well as offering a lightweight, easy-to-wear eyewear solution – putting this line in a category of its own. Image above: Photographer: Clemens Ascher http://www.clemensascher.com and clothes by Mühlmann https://www.muehlmann.eu  For more information about ROLF, visit www.rolfspectacles.com

VAERK no 104 in Champagne

New brands were plentiful at Silmo, the best ones focusing on advanced technology and technical know-how. VAERK Copenhagen puts the emphasis on beautiful engineering, tech and Danish design traditions. In collaboration with the renowned Danish industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen, this brand has developed an innovative hinge concept that not only constitutes high level precision but also an aesthetically appealing link between the frame front and temple. www.vaerkcopenhagen.com

Covrt Project: high-tech urban design / made in Italy

In a completely different departure for street style aficionados, London-based designer and creative director Marcello Martino launched Covrt Project in the “start-up” area of the Silmo fair. This bold Italian made collection includes 7 sunglass styles with advanced tech features focused on enhanced comfort, durability and individual design. The collection is accompanied by unique accessories: find out more at  https://covrtproject.com.

SILMO Paris will take place from 2nd to 5th October 2020 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For more information visit www.silmoparis.com Eyestylist will report on more trends and new updates following SILMO Paris in the weeks ahead. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. Please seek permission for reprints. All rights reserved.