It really never went away. But with the resurgence in influences from the 1980s, 90s + 00s, a return of punk, grunge and gothic nuances, and the reemergence of specific iconic items from those decades including the classic black Dr Martens first created in the 1960s, consistently returning as a style piece, black eyewear is on cue to do particularly well in the next weeks and months, in many forms and with the quirkier of statements.
Part and parcel of the genre are the 1990s inspired narrow retro mask sunglasses, much hyped but always evolving thanks to some of the most creative designers in the eyewear business. Above: 90s style reimagined by Factory 900, Japan: model FA-380. Made in Fukui. For details: www.factory900.jp
At Italian artisan label Essedue the inspiration is on the 80s with a nod to David Bowie and a chic “on point” style. Model Saturn, from the PRIMA line, has a strong round lens shape with pointed outer line in black, underscored with a white lower rim. Find out more at https://www.esseduesunglasses.com/product/saturn/
Made of unpolished acetate, model MMRAW016 – in the Mykita x Maison Margiela collection comes in a Raw Black Havana with Black – illustrating that all types of finish and coloration based on black make up part of the season’s new looks. The panto-shaped optical frame with a raised bar highlights visible traces of the milling process, making each model slightly different from another. For more information: www.mykita.com
We have selected a few examples of the black styles now available for A/W 19/00. For more inspiration visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine.
At an impromptu meet in Paris, surrounded by luxury chain designs, more akin to jewellery than most collections we’ve come across, film director Jenny Suen tells me she found her first vintage eyewear chain at a flea market in Paris. She has worn it ever since as part of her signature look. “Over the years, so many people asked me where they could buy one,” she explains. “It occurred to me that there were no chains produced in fine materials or designed with the modern woman in mind. So when I finished my last movie, I decided to create my own.” Above: model wearing Coco (18K gold plated with freshwater pearls)
Launched this year, the debut collection is made with 18-carat gold and freshwater pearls, a tribute to the filmmaker’s/designer’s hometown of Hong Kong, a city known as “Pearl of the East.” Offering sleek lines evoking the city’s iconic skyscrapers, and a romantic modern feminine design, the three launch pieces are named after women for whom Suen has special admiration: Marguerite (Duras), Coco (Chanel), and Faye (Wong).
“Long associated with secretaries, forgetful grandmas, and stuffy librarians, Lien re- imagines the eyewear chain for the modern woman. Once a practical tool to keep optical glasses and sunglasses from the lost and found, the eyewear chain is now a statement-making piece of jewellery for visionaries who imagine, travel, and create….”
Lien Atelier is stocked at Kite Shoreditch (UK), Marc Le Bihan (France) and Kapok Sun Street (Hong Kong). The name “Lien” means “link” in French and Chinese.
About the founder: Jenny Suen is a Hong Kong director. She wrote, produced, and co-directed The White Girl with legendary cinematographer Christopher Doyle. The film stars Joe Odagiri and Angela Yuen in a tropical-noir love story set in the last fishing village of Hong Kong. It screened at festivals worldwide, including a world premiere at at the BFI London Film Festival, was nominated for a NETPAC award at the Taipei Golden Horse Film Festival, and had a special premiere at the Singapore International Film Festival, where it was lauded as an “accomplished first feature from Suen, [heralding] the coming of a new director with the potential to add truly unique offerings to the Hong Kong film canon.” Suen also produced Hong Kong Trilogy, a portrait of the city’s residents in childhood, youth, and old age, which was directed by Doyle. It premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival in 2015. Her next film will be a widely-anticipated Chinese remake of Vera Chytilova’s 1968 Czech New Wave masterpiece Daisies. For more details visit www.lienatelier.comCN
The popular annual eyewear fair Hall of Frames (Zurich, Switzerland) has issued imagery from its new season shoot which took place on site at Papiersaal over a sunny weekend in September. The frames featured include a mix of advanced materials, from lightweight titanium to 3d printed designs, with state-of-the-art details, classically inspired shapes and interesting finishes and treatments. Above: Ørgreen Optics Coeda 964, produced in 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium. www.orgreenoptics.com Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé
Dieter Funk’s acetate frames, produced in Bavaria, Germany, lean toward classic or timeless design principles, with modern updates taking the form of special colorations and material/tonal combinations. For more details: www.funkbrillen.com
The Endlos series by Gmerna-based company Coblens combines titanium temples with modern rimless fronts; the frame front and sides are attached to the lenses with small antique inspired screws with a hexagonal shape. www.coblens.com
Quantum spectacles have an outstanding spherical hinge design and light construction in 3D printed polyamide. The innovative choice of subtle and bright colours is one of many highlights of the Danish brand’s eyewear expertise. www.orgreenoptics.com / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé for Hall of Frames:https://www.ninamariaglahe.com/All rights reserved.
The next edition of Hall of Frames will take place on 13th and 14th September 2020. For more details, visitwww.hallofframes.chCN
The metal frames of the moment are a sign that 2020 will be another good one for a more minimal style in eyewear. In Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, the coolest metal frames worn out on the street were neither mini nor oversized, fitting the face to perfection with interesting shapes, angled or geometric forms (octagons and hexagons) in metal tones, and particularly shiny steel, gun and black. Above: fashion influencer Megan Adelaide Schaefer in a black metal frame photographed at Paris Fashion Week by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.
Very, very narrow rimmed frames – whether sun or optical, as above at Mykita, deliver a sharp yet simple style softened with the subtle vintage inspired engraving, in a successful blend of nostalgic and futuristic elements. www.mykita.com
Clean, pared back designs with dark grey or black lens for sunglasses provide streamlined modes that are visual but less showy that in previous seasons with attention paid to craftsmanship and finesse for a simple unembellished but elegant way of dressing.
Cat eye inspired metal shapes, such as Monarch by L.G.R (www.lgrworld.com), are contemporary and striking, balancing glamour and a feminine identity in the shape; the colours of the Monarch are in line with the minimal mood and include matt copper (above) matt black and grey with flat zero base sun lenses made from mineral glass for 100% UV protection and comfort. For more on trending styles, visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/paris-fashion-week-ss20/CN
20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion – Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK
Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Fashion in Motion, the V&A will be hosting a presentation by the acclaimed Chinese couturier Guo Pei. Famed for designing Rihanna’s yellow gown worn at the 2015 Met Gala, Guo Pei is one of China’s most spectacular designers, dressing celebrities, royalty and the style icons for over 20 years.
Fashion in Motion: Guo Pei will be the designer’s first ever show in the UK and will showcase looks from her AW 2019/20 Alternate Universe Couture collection inside the museum’s iconic Raphael Gallery on Friday 1st November 2019. Above: Guo Pei ‘Alternate Universe Fall-Winter 2019/20 – coming to #FashioninMotion at the V&A
Fashion in Motion is the V&A’s key fashion event enabling anyone to take a seat on the front row. Providing a platform for both established and up- and-coming designers, the regular series presents free-to-attend runway shows for the public and has previously featured Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Yohji Yamamoto.
Guo Pei first presented her Alternate Universe collection at this year’s Paris Couture Week. The collection is based on the idea of a new universe where light and darkness co- exist, angels and demons sit next to one another and magical creatures creep out of the shadows. Combining the use of pineapple hemp fabric, Lafite embroidery and her signature three- dimensional embroidery techniques, the collection conjures up vivid images of mystical creatures from a different realm. Drawing inspiration from myths, fables, religious texts and the beauty of natural life, animal and insect motifs feature heavily throughout the collection, from the monkeys of Aesop’s Fables to the poisonous snake which lured Eve to steal the forbidden fruit.
Guo Pei has established herself as one of the most inventive designers working today. Showcasing the finest of traditional Chinese craftsmanship while incorporating contemporary innovation, her designs take inspiration from myths, legends, architecture, and her cultural heritage. Free tickets will be released for the catwalk events from 21st October 2019 at
Creative energies are running particularly high at theo this year, in preparation for 2020. SILMO saw an ingenious spread of collections, among them a fresh collaborative series – the third of its kind for theo – with designer Matali Crasset. ‘Dialogues’ explores conversation and chat, with focus on the two eyewear basics – the lens and whatever goes around it; how the two interact together or relate beyond the classic ‘glasses’ form becomes a feature and a “talking point” – without constraint in the construction or the technical finesse (of course!). Above: Model Debate, in fluo pink, by theo X Matali Crasset
“The shape of the lenses is radically different from what Matali has created before” theo eyewear
Expressive, comfortable, surprisingly easy to wear. The result is six titanium styles with Crasset’s “signature” which bring a unique focus to the eyes of the wearer. Single colours emphasise the drama of the openwork and “floating effects”, exploring a bold vision, in theo style – with exquisite tones of fluo pink and orange through to sophisticated monochrome black or white – the two colours that Crasset wears herself.
Dialogues by theo X Matali Crasset was launched in Paris in September 2019; the frames will shortly become available in theo opticians worldwide. The collaborators have simultaneously launched ‘Blurred’, an even more ‘rebellious’ limited edition related to the Dialogues designs and created solely in black and white.
Matali Crasset is an industrial designer from France. She has become known for a refusal of pure shape in her work and develops new typologies articulated around principles such as modularity, appropriation, and flexibility. She has worked on far-reaching projects in different disciplines and with leading brands including Alessi, Nodus and Le Buisson. For more information visitwww.theo.be / www.matalicrasset.comCN
A fresh, luxury sunglasses collection, produced in premium materials from young LA-based female designer Morganne Leigh takes inspiration from the Galápagos Islands and its untamed flora and fauna. Highlights include model ‘Las Iguanas’ a timeless, unisex oval shape with creative details that simulate the textures and features of the islands’ most prominent lizard species.
“The Marine Iguana species can only be found on the Galápagos Islands. It is the only lizard species on Earth that lives on land, but swims in the sea to forage and feed on algae. Through evolution, it’s snout has been perfectly formed for this task; this inspired our nose bridge shape.” Morganne Leigh, Tyche & Iset
Her third unique collection to date, Leigh has a fresh, innovative touch in eyewear design and an experimental creative vision, coming from other arts disciplines and having trained as a painter and graphic designer. The new collection is a beautiful representation of her work, with details and finishes that are subtly tied to the magical natural volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean.
Vinylize has launched the Hitsville U.S.A. Sunglasses collection, designed by the Budapest brand and launched for the Motown 60 Weekend, a Detroit event that marked its diamond anniversary this year.
“One of our favorite customers is Dr. Joe Ales of the fantastic Birmingham, Michigan, OPTIK eyewear store. And one of his customers is Brian Stevenson, a high-powered Detroit marketing consultant who works with the Motown Museum”, explains Zack Tipton on how the parnership came about. “Brian spotted Vinylize at OPTIK and realized that making glasses out of Motown vinyl to help commemorate Motown 60 was a fantastic, synergistic idea.”
The brand has created two cool vinyl models, The Esther and The Chairman limited to 100 pieces per model. Vinylize is giving 20% of sales from The Hitsville U.S.A. Sunglasses Collection to support the Motown Museum Expansion plan. “This will go towards growing the museum – already a must-see destination for visitors to Detroit – into a 50,000-square-foot world-class entertainment and education tourist destination,” they explain. “When it’s completed, the museum will have a transformative impact on the surrounding Detroit neighborhoods, providing employment, sustainability and community pride.”
Vinylize is a Budapest brand run by husband and wife team Yulia and Zack Tipton. Their frames are produced in Hungary using old “unwanted” vinyl records. The label is unique in the eyewear industry in the use of the material and has strong ties with the music industry worldwide through collaborations and special editions produced for events such as Sziget (Hungary). For more information visit https://vinylize.com – Find OPTIK eyewear store at www.optikbirmingham.com CN
A little less sunshine (and fewer sunglasses on the street) but just as beautiful as ever, Paris Fashion Week’s street style looks were bold and breathtaking or deeply influenced by tradition. In eyewear, a sincere love and respect for heritage and classic couture was evident across the city with vintage designs and clean architectural shapes in muted tones being most popular with all generations. Above: Anna Dello Russo wearing an oversized mask in black. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.
The cat’s eye continued to enjoy a spectacular showing at Paris, as in London and NYC – with all versions, from small and sleek to large or elongated worn by women – and increasingly, men too.
The elongated and sharply pointed cat’s eyes worn by many celebrities are still in vogue with the darker colours remaining the most elegant trend-driven statement for a striking finish or unique look – above, worn by Jessica (@kandelissa) with Mikhael Kale (SS20).
Metal frames have really taken off with a few particular shapes such as small rounds and ovals doing well. Our sightings of these styles indicated that this trend is strong and still growing.
With less rays throughout the week there was a chance to catch some models and influencers in glamorous glasses. Caroline Daur (influencer, blogger and entrepreneur – www.carodaur.com) wore a classic black cat eye with head to toe Valentino for the @maisonvalentino show by Pierpaolo Piccioli. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN
Silmo is a key event in the optical fair calendar where we discover innovations, new directions and trends in eyewear for the season ahead. This year, the breadth of creative proposals was significant, and attendance by independent labels showed a strong movement toward individual design, high level production and experimental work and expertise in colour, materials and eco-oriented design.
At Silmo, Tavat Eyewear showed their new avant-garde SpamCan Collection, the next step on from SoupCan, inspired by the quadratical shape of the iconic spam can or tin. Made from an impressive material composed of bronze, zinc and nickel, this new departure is highly technical and elaborate, with 27 components and a hinge based on the high-precision Swiss watch crown mechanism. The sunglasses are fitted with melanin sunglass lenses. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.com
You Mawo’s showpieces at Silmo included the Metamorphosis 3D printed Limited series and a visor design (above) with futuristic 3D side pieces. The main line has also expanded with some strong fashion shapes (cateye model Lyra) and a beautiful round design called Selene. www.youmawo.com
Monoqool launched the SUSTAIN sunglasses, a first 3d printed design made from castor beans farmed sustainably in India through the Pragati Initiative (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHe1N43IN8o ). The company has entered the Sustain programme supported by the AM-Hub organisation in Denmark with the goal of helping a selected number of small/medium size Danish companies to develop sustainable manufacturing via 3D print technology. www.monoqool.com
Kirk & Kirk have done much to promote the benefits of colourful eyewear proposals from the UK, and continue to put out glorious colorations, in both their Centena and Kaleidscope collections, with emphasis on new tones of blue, pink and mauve. www.kirkandkirk.com
The Skyline collection at ROLF Spectacles is exceptional in its avantgarde designs in 3D printed titanium. The new styles have stunning combinations of smooth and textured ‘volcanic-like’ surfaces as well as offering a lightweight, easy-to-wear eyewear solution – putting this line in a category of its own. Image above: Photographer: Clemens Ascher http://www.clemensascher.com and clothes by Mühlmann https://www.muehlmann.eu For more information about ROLF, visit www.rolfspectacles.com
New brands were plentiful at Silmo, the best ones focusing on advanced technology and technical know-how. VAERK Copenhagen puts the emphasis on beautiful engineering, tech and Danish design traditions. In collaboration with the renowned Danish industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen, this brand has developed an innovative hinge concept that not only constitutes high level precision but also an aesthetically appealing link between the frame front and temple. www.vaerkcopenhagen.com
In a completely different departure for street style aficionados, London-based designer and creative director Marcello Martino launched Covrt Project in the “start-up” area of the Silmo fair. This bold Italian made collection includes 7 sunglass styles with advanced tech features focused on enhanced comfort, durability and individual design. The collection is accompanied by unique accessories: find out more at https://covrtproject.com.
SILMO Paris will take place from 2nd to 5th October 2020 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For more information visitwww.silmoparis.com Eyestylist will report on more trends and new updates following SILMO Paris in the weeks ahead. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. Please seek permission for reprints. All rights reserved.
Ti Kwa’s avant-garde eyewear label Rigards always has something special to show at Paris Fashion Week and SILMO at this time of year – and for 2019 it’s a very special cat eye inspired by nature.
Collaborating with UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki’s award-winning womenswear line, model RG0123UJOH+ builds upon the traditional winged silhouette, with its upswept double rims, one made of ultralight aluminum-magnesium and the other of surgical-steel. The semi-stacked construction and negative-space cut away creates an illusion that the inner rims are floating over the face.
The frame’s aesthetic pays special homage to dragonflies and damselflies, insects which the designer has studied with a keen eye. Despite their simple origin from “incomplete” metamorphoses and fragile wings of gossamer, they have come to symbolize beauty, ferocity, and purity of habitat, in almost every part of the world.
A second model – RG0123UJOH – was created alongside this masterpiece. This style is described as “a little more subtle” without the statement-making cut-out (and thus the colour contrast), yet still offering a resolutely distinctive and individual alternative for the less-audacious wearer.
Forty years ago this month, Gai Gherardi and Barbara McReynolds opened an optical shop on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles – l.a. Eyeworks. Four decades later, the pioneering efforts and energy of Gherardi and McReynolds have catapulted l.a. Eyeworks into an international and influential house of eyewear design.
The anniversary year kicks off with a window campaign that will adorn the facades of more than eighty optical retailers in seven countries. Two signboards feature custom graphic designs with the messages: ‘Raise your Glasses’ and ‘Uncensored Visions since 1979’ floating above the brand’s logo. Created by L.A. based artist Nina Palomba, the design is one of numerous multidisciplinary artists and inspiring personalities with whom l.a. Eyeworks has partnered for creative marketing and photos during forty years. For the Fall 2019 portrait campaign, l.a. Eyeworks is working with three visionary photographers who will creatively express Gherardi and McReynolds’s philosophy, cementing their inspiration: “the ever-changing diverse landscape of faces.” Among the brands most famous catchphrases is: ‘A face is like a work of art. It deserves a great frame.’
In all their eyewear designs, Gherardi and McReynolds display an innate passion for colour and shape, which has enamoured opticians worldwide throughout the years. Deirdre McNally at Optica Dublin noted: “We truly admire and have fallen in love all over again with l.a. Eyeworks. They have a magic to understand eyewear.” The l.a. Eyeworks innovative magic continues to expand with exemplary designs that manifest originality, diligence and dedication, as well as passion and perseverance, that the founders have infused into their iconic brand. Congratulations to l.a. Eyeworks on this memorable occasion of their 40th Anniversary. www.laeyeworks.com JG
Synonymous with quality and chic, trendsetting style, Milan’s fashion week continues to be a mecca for luxury street style, good taste and individual dressing. Here is a sneak peek outside the SS20 catwalks by Italian photographer Gennaro D’Elia. Above: Leila Depina wears vintage Cazal – model 913, first launched in 2001.
Fashion buyer @SISSIZHANG wore the latest style in the Gentle Monster X FENDI collab.
Logos are worn with pride in Milan. Digital content creator and speaker Armela Jakova wore Gucci. For more photos from Milan Fashion Week visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com.
With just 3 days to go before the big event in Paris, designers look forward to unveiling creative designs for the forthcoming season, with graphic presentations and valuable insights into the evolution of their collections and brand stories. Silmo Paris brings together an extraordinarily wide-ranging selection of companies related to the optical field, and for those who visit as buyers, an inspirational and diverse choice of design-focused eyewear from which to select for their customers.
Newcomers’ ranges are much sought after at the fair as are the independent collections with innovative flair and precise design motivations. Alf Lunettes – from France – exhibiting for the second time, will launch a carefully presented line of handmade sunglasses and optical frames which are made in Normandy in exclusive Japanese acetates. They add beautiful, comfortable mineral photochromic lenses “to make a highly technical product” and create a universe inspired by the elegance of the 1920s through to the ’50s, anchored by a precise and heart-felt respect for quality and clean, sober lines. https://lunettes-alf.com
‘Wintersun’ was originally devised by Oliver Goldsmith back in 1965 and was a collection intended to be worn ‘during the winter months’ or through the months when dark-lensed sunglasses were not needed. The collection showcases some of the most historic shapes of the famous Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses collection such as the much favored Ynot (above), round chic Oops and the multi-sided Yatton sunglasses. www.olivergoldsmith.com
The historic family eyewear company, Lafont Paris celebrates its 40th birthday at Silmo this year. A special 40th anniversary collector’s edition box will feature iconic frames from the Lafont Archives, reimagined in a contemporary context. A nod to the 1980s, the decade when the company started will include new interpretations of the classic “Lafont” P3 and elegant cat-eyes with chic Parisian flair. A must-see at the Paris fair this year. www.lafont.com
French eyewear company Morel inaugurates an eponymous new collection of sunglasses which brings together a design that is both aesthetic and engineered, in complementary styles. A sneak peak of MOREL 80027A sums up the chic and super trendy flavour. www.morel-france.com
SILMO – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 in Paris, at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details visit www.silmoparis.com. SILMO is a trade only event.
Glorious Indian Summer weather graced the Hall of Frames Zurich exhibition, which highlighted exceptional presentations of exclusive, premium quality designs, created by independent eyewear designers and brands. Opticians from Switzerland, Germany and Austria enjoyed experiencing the two-day event. Above image: Designers attending HOF Zurich – from the left – included Matze Marpe; Birgitte Falvin; Sven Götti; and Nirvan Javan
“We had excellent feedback from the exhibitors, and visitors were really interested in individual brands, and took the time to get to know them,” said organiser Nathanaël Wenger, “and there were many interesting conversations exchanged between exhibitors and visitors – plus a lot of laughter and smiles! The atmosphere was very good, relaxed and positive.”
Beautifully crafted, individualistic frames were on display from independent innovators and brands noted for their charismatic approach to eyewear. Creative 3-D printed frames; superbly formulated wooden designs; modern minimalism in titanium; sleek acetate compositions in marvellous colours; material mixtures united for imaginative and original designs; and eco-friendly orientated frames resonated through the collections from Götti Switzerland; Orgreen; Blackfin; Rolf Spectacles; Falvin; Andy Wolf; Matze Marpe; Nirvan Javan; Any Di Munich; Fassungswerk; Caroline Abram; Neubau: Modo; Randolph USA and Tom Davies; among others.
“We are pleased with the results,” noted Wenger, “and Hall of Frames covers a clear need in the eyewear sector, and will probably increase in importance in the future. We are considering organising another show in the spring of 2020 or 2021.” More details at www.hallofframes.chJG
History permeates the French port city of Rouen on the River Seine. Hero and martyr Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake in Rouen in 1431; Edward IV of England (1442-1483) was born there, as was the novelist Gustave Flaubert (1821), and François Hollande, former President of France (2012-2017), and Claude Monet painted the Rouen Cathedral Series in the 1890’s while visiting there. Now French optical brand Lafont is creating a new and exciting history of its own – with a charming, inspiring boutique in Rouen’s historical Old Town.
The Rouen boutique is the first shop outside Paris for the Lafont family-owned business. Optician Fatima Deflinne explained: “There is a family history of friendship between the Lafont family and the previous owner of this shop, and when he was ready to sell, he approached Philippe Lafont. The shop is over one hundred years old, and has always been an optical boutique.” Ultra chic colourations of aubergine and olive green harmonise elegantly in the shop, located within a three-minute walk of the acclaimed Cathedral Notre-Dame de Rouen, plus intriguing shops and cafés. The complete range of Lafont’s diversified eyewear designs for men, women and children are on display. A specific area for children has been carefully allocated where they can play with toys or use colouring books, while also trying on the latest immensely desirable children’s frames.
The shop participates and supports city events, the most prominent activity being the International Rouen Armada that takes place in June every year. This is a major robust celebration on the River Seine, where the finest and beloved sailing ships arrive from all over the world to cruise and navigate along La Seine from Rouen to Le Havre. This year, as a tribute to the genuine love story between the city, the world of sailing and Maison Lafont, the Lafont Parisian workshop created a striking design to be sold exclusively in the boutique. The graceful, navy blue Armada frame is accented with a carved sailboat above the contemporary frame top.
Everything in the Lafont Boutique is personalised, and that includes customised, handwritten invitations that are sent to customers to experience and appreciate new collections. “We only use real invitations that are sent in the post,” explained Deflinne, “and visitors are welcomed with a glass of champagne. Rouen is really a community and everybody knows everybody.”
For Lafont, authenticity is linked to the credibility of the designs handmade in France, which have been awarded the distinguished certification ‘Origine France Garantie.’ For more information on Lafont products and shops, visit www.lafont.com JG
Gracing the catwalks again in Milan this week, Delirious Eyewear joins a line-up of designer fashion collections in the Italian fashion capital. An iconic balance of classic materials and sharp architectural shapes are characterised by subtle natural colorations of caramel, black or delicate animal prints. Model Cheetah is the statement trapezoidal design of the collection, with a sharp slightly squared shape and decadent super flat lenses (by Zeiss) to hide behind.
“We search for a style that consists of simple lines and minimalistic shapes which are passively influenced by our deep knowledge of the eyewear sector….” Marco Lanero, Delirious
About Delirious Eyewear – Delirious Eyewear is an award-winning independent label based in Milan. With a close relationship to the Milan fashion scene, the label has been recognised by Vogue Talent Italy and continues to innovate in manufacture and production methods through a close relationship with experts in Cadore, Italy and Japan. The collections feature Mazzucchelli acetate, buffalo horn and titanium materials.
Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Model @_piakarl_. For details about Delirious Eyewear visitwww.deliriouseyewear.comCN
The soothing, atmospheric beauty of Skagen, Denmark’s most northerly village, has long inspired painters, writers and designers to visit its windswept shorelines, pine forests and dunes.
Most famous were the Skagen Painters, a group of Scandinavian artists who settled in the village to portray the remarkable scenery – and the unique quality of light that had drawn them to the spectacular spot at the tip of mainland Jutland.
Reflecting on their iconic paintings, eyewear label FLEYE Copenhagen’s design team have come up with their own inspirational artwork experimenting with a variety of materials and their different characteristics; they play with matte and shiny surfaces, soft natural light, color contrasts, and beautiful reflections, highlights of the paintings that most inspired their studies.
“Each frame becomes its own artistic expression when textures are combined, colours are chosen and reflections are created.”
The result is a series of frames (including model Asger, top) inspired by the colours and textures of the team’s ‘abstract’ art works, photographed by Ida Emilie Risager. Design concepts such as transparency, depth and structure have been applied to create the collection using a mix of materials from light acetates, to warm carbon/wood and beta-titanium. Each design has a link to the works of art, balancing the technical precision of the Danish company’s frame construction with unusual art-focused design elements and colours.
The Nordic Light eyewear collection launches shortly at the SILMO fair (trade fair) in Paris. Find out more about Fleye frames at : www.fleye.dkCN
Amidst Extinction Rebellion environmental protests, demonstrations against leather in fashion, LFW photographers and the so-called style influencers, the crowds heading to the shows or lingering outside provide a fashion preview for autumn/winter 19 street style in the British capital. For eyewear, the variety was a talking point with a hugely eclectic mix of frames and sunglasses, from poorly styled to beautifully unique – with some very obvious over worn brand-emblazoned sunnies as well as a penchant for vintage, and mega trends of 2019 – mini Matrix shapes, the cateye (strong also in NYC) or the oversized visor and mask.
This weekend, some of the coolest looks in the city at the venues – both for glasses and sunglasses – showed there is growing confidence in understated, simple or pared back design – especially where there is an architectural detail or retro 80s/90s influenced silhouette. Above: Fashion artist @tayisiya_ph in all black, paired with a statement wide brim hat and structured timeless rectangular specs.
Our review of some of the eyewear spotted on London’s streets and at LFW will be published this coming week – follow us on Instagram @eyestylistmagazine. Top image: London Fashion Week photography by Cesare Riccardi, exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN
To a well trained eye, crystal tones (in eyewear) can vary dramatically. The most refined offer a delicate elegance due to the quality of the cellulose acetate, and the precision in tumbling and hand finishing to create the desired rich lustre or shine.
Consistent in their choice of strong and flexible Japanese cellulose acetate, SALT. Optics, the Californian eyewear brand works with a wide yet subtle palette of colours and superb clear crystal and smokey tints. The brand plays with the trending tinted crystal tones which are flattering to the complexion – often using colorations and a mix of tones inspired by the natural world, the sea, the earth and the sky. Above: model Sophia by SALT. Optics, in Smokey Grey with CR39 Denim Gradient polarized lenses. The finely crafted metal core is visible inside the clear acetate, a design touch that revisits the crafted finish of vintage eyewear.
This season, the models in the C2-19 collection include a range of finely crafted ophthalmic frames with natural tones of toasted toffee and brushed honey gold through to the sophisticated translucent smoke grey of model Gerry, pictured above.
One of the classic tones of sunglass model Andy, combines a delicate smoke grey and a bolder coloration in tea on the temples. A unisex panto design, this statement frame highlights the contrast of the metal hard ware – with plaques and pins, designed to last – lending a classic hallmark of quality to each design.
About SALT. Optics – SALT. is a premium eyewear brand from coastal California that is committed to quality frame construction and timeless design, inspired by effortless beauty. Combining high-grade materials with third generation Japanese craftsmanship, SALT. makes timeless eyewear designed for anyone who appreciates natural simplicity and lasting design. www.saltoptics.comCN
New main line titanium styles by Blackfin are hot off the press for the Autumn season, with a careful focus on innovative technical details and uncompromising quality construction – features that have long been at the heart of this tech-loving, innovation-driven family firm. The five shapes releasing include a panto-inspired frame called Bayou, a classically round Blackfin design with ultra-flex titanium bridge and temples in beta titanium – a material selected for its extra strength and flexibility when combined with titanium.
The color palette for Bayou ranges from the more masculine – dark blue paired with a bright red (below), black or midnight blue – to the more feminine shades of blush pink or midnight blue combined with the brightest tone of magenta.
All the new styles in the range are fitted with tilting nose pads and Blackfin’s Swordfish temple tips. Find them at Silmo Paris this month and visit the website for all the latest releases as they appear at www.blackfin.eu. CN
The founders of the Northern Swedish company EOE have created the first edition of eyewear made from recycled broken and discarded plastic eyewear. The collection and campaign launch this month in Paris.
Commitment to research. Investment in new technology for recycling. And admirable perseverance to set up a workable system for recycling frames in Sweden in a collaboration with the Nordic company Synsam and Vision for All. The founders of EOE Erik and Emilia Lindmark have worked for over three years on the recycling project to create a frame material with performance properties comparable to new acetate and an aesthetic finish and choice of colorations suitable for the creation of high-quality trend-focused products.
Launching the concept with the Regrind edition of three sunglasses, attention has been placed on creating a chic look in the coloration using predominantly black frames for the “regrinding” process. Tiny smatterings of minute coloured frame pieces are just visible, and create a textured effect on the surface, the look of which is wholly dependent on the types of frames recycled, the predominant colours of the frame pieces and the quality of the acetate of the old frames. Above: EOE’s new video illustrates the concept developed by EOE for turning old unwanted eyewear into a recycled material for new chic eyewear.
Regrind debuts as a fashion collection in a stunning campaign by fashion photographers Peter Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago (www.faragofarago.com) which highlights the idiosyncrasies of the material in a beautiful wild and natural Swedish landscape.
EOE recycled acetate material is produced by EOE together with engineers, chemists and physicists. The frames are shattered into small pieces and the metal parts are then filtered out. The plastic pieces then undergo a regrinding process to create new blocks of raw material. 98% of the old eyewear is recyclable. EOE uses recycled steel from Sweden to produce the metal parts of the frames. In August the company was recognised by Encouragement for Action – Stockholm Fashion District in the “closing the loop” category, part of an award scheme to raise awareness and bring attention to important ideas in sustainability, digitization and fashion tech.
Bespoke Limited Edition by master craftsman, Sawada-Yaemon – Sabae Japan
A new special edition “James Dean” inspired collection from Japan – bound for Europe this month – gives expression to the heritage and craftsmanship of Sabae eyewear makers dedicated to traditional ‘tried and tested’ production techniques, and expert craft work passed down through families.
The “JD” spectacles by TVR®, focusing on the classic rounded “horn-rim” style made famous by James Dean, are created in a strong Zylonite material (4mm thick) with metal core identified by a very fine handcrafted embellishment of Japanese engraving inspired by The Great Wave of Kanagawa, the woodblock print by ukiyo-e artist Hokusai. Above: TVR® Arnel®, European Edition – Kanagawa Metal Core Design
Craftsman Sawada-Yaemon whose family has a multi-generational reputation in eyewear production has been put in charge of the complete production of the limited edition. The Yaemon family whose ancestors date back to the Edo period, is the first to perfect the iconic TVR® Arnel® shape using traditional measuring techniques.
Meticulously recreated by hand, the unmistakable vintage design of the JD shape is enhanced with SPM (Sun Platinum Metal) spear rivets, a keyhole bridge, 7-barrel hinges and miter cutting by hand. Every detail, from the tumbling and polishing to each bend that’s perfected by hand represents the revival of TVR® Arnel® based on the original blueprint from 1948.
The European edition is released in seven colours with emphasis on delicate crystal tones – a Japanese specialty – and sophisticated neutrals including Amazing Grey Black, Black Dark Brown, Classic Black, Demi Brown Amber, Grey Gradient, Olive Clear and Yellow Crystal. The European Edition is designed as a special edition to recognise the support of TVR customers outside Japan since the label was first created in 2014. For more information visit:www.tvropt.comCN
Imagination and thinking “outside the box” highlights the thriving individuality and creativity of independent, global eyewear designers. Next week (15th and 16th September) in Zurich, this elegant Swiss city on the lake, is the ideal opportunity to discover over forty gifted creators who bring new concepts, dimensions, and spirit to eyewear. Organiser Nathanaël Wenger noted: “We’ve had lots of activity and interest in the Zurich show; and even with many changes in the optical sector, the market for independents is stable and strong. Opticians know how to focus and increasingly choose independent brands. So we are really positive.”
From Andy Wolf to You Mawo, the roll call of participating brands in HOF Zurich is impressive, energetic and artistic. Companies recognised on an international level, as well as newcomers, are participating in the two-day event as Papiersaal, an historic location in the centre of this vibrant, beautiful Swiss city. Glossy acetate and minimalist titanium designs grace the masterful variety of frames by Orgreen (top image). Japanese architecture inspires the newest collection, with stunning shapes and colours www.orgreen.dk
Nature and beautiful surroundings in the Austrian region of Styria is the keynote to the latest Andy Wolf designs. In an expressive collection with innovative silhouettes and chic colourations, you’ll discover diverse frames that also reflect Andy Wolf’s commitment to sustainable use of resources. www.andy-wolf.com
Danish Titanium specialist LINDBERG launches the autumn season with a striking collection of chic designs for men and women. Exquisite detailing, and attention to every aspect of frame creation, has enabled LINDBERG to become a recognised leader and award-winner in luxury eyewear. www.lindberg.com
Fassungswerk is a small Swiss brand also inspired by Nature with their crafting of unconventional frames in acetate and horn. Quality, precision and experimental styling characterises their young contemporary concept. www.fassungswerk.ch
Parisian designer Caroline Abram dresses up women’s eyes with glamour and elegance, as well as dashing and daring concepts. Caroline’s latest dazzling optical and sunglass designs in creative colourations and marvellous shapes, are the ideal accessories for autumn/winter fashions – holidays too! www.carolineabram.com
Come enjoy and experience exciting, new eyewear with independent creators in Zurich on the 15th and 16th September at Papiersaal…a remarkable place to discover exclusively produced designs with profound pedigrees. For the full list of exhibitors and more details, visit www.hallofframes.chJG
A new exhibition highlighting the creative talents of Belgian artisans takes place in Brussels this month. Ateliers Gabriel proposes an opportunity to get close to some of Belgium’s most accomplished craftsmen and women with an exhibition of the recent work and presentation of a selection of tools and photographs from the workshops which explore the expertise and precision that goes into the different handmade pieces.
“A world of passion and patience, where time and attention to detail make all the difference…” Substance Exhibition
Ateliers Gabriel is a project designed to represent high calibre Belgian workshops in ‘crafts, decorative arts and art of living’. Members of the group who will be highlighted in the exhibition include the bespoke eyewear maker Lunetier Ludovic (www.eyestylist.com/2019/01/lunetier-ludovic-brussels-belgium/), Atelier Mestdagh, makers of stained glass, Niyona, the fine leather goods specialist and furniture maker Alexandre Lowie.
Maison Johanne Riss, Rue de la grosse tour, 3, 1000 Brussels from 19-21 September 2019. For more information about Ateliers Gabriel: www.ateliersgabriel.be CN
The Silmo fair in September (international trade fair) is the pinnacle of the “eyewear designers” calendar of events, and provides our eyes with a feast of colour and innovation in design from well-known, new and up-and-coming labels who descend on Paris for several days. It’s the place we love to scout for innovation, new trends, and unique eyewear and accessories from all around the world.
Joining the line up are many companies who return to the event every year. The Marseilles designer Jean-François Rey launches new designs across multiple collections at the event, with a principal focus on expertise in colour, design creativity and beautiful French artisan quality. Highlights this year will include the new Wave collection (above) – an architecture-inspired eyewear concept using stainless steel to create lightweight, airy structures with a “folding effect” achieved by hand. Gorgeous hand applied colour combinations provide an eye-catching effect on the face. www.jfrey.fr
From Sweden, Oscar Magnuson returns each year to Paris, this time with a bio-acetate collection that marries a bold structural look with the quality and pared-down purity of high-quality Swedish design. The sunglasses collection in the same material include some statement micro shapes (model Sid) and oversized classics (model Debbie) and across the lines you will find a palette of monochrome tones such as urban green, crystal grey and deep ink – a deep sophisticated and moody tone that makes a clever alternative to black. www.oscarmagnuson.com
Their first time showing to the international audience at Silmo, Diffuser Tokyo – by Masaki Hirose – will reveal its comprehensive high-quality range of accessories which include cases, frame holders and eyewear pouches in a fresh concept that highlights quality materials and well designed functional products. Preview their ranges at www.diffuser-tokyo.com. We are already big fans.
Brand new crystal colorations and nature-infused tones are a feature for next year’s sunglasses collections. Californian label SALT. Optics is introducing new styles in their C2-19 collection which is poised to deliver beautiful heritage-inspired eyewear, made in Japan with exclusive quality features (incredible hardware through to chic glass lenses) and subtle colorations of dusty rose, hazy taupe, mojave and whiskey (above). Find out more at www.saltoptics.com
Another new name at Silmo this year, Mr Lenoir is the official brand of former football player Djibril Cissé, with optical and sunglass designs created in partnership with Laurent Balducelli, a French optician and specialist in bespoke eyewear. Produced in Montbeliard in France, the eclectic range of styles are made from Mazzucchelli acetate and in some cases feature metal laser cutting and chemical etching. They are available at a few independent stores already, both in and outside France. For more information visit their Instagram page @mrlenoirlunettes.
For luxurious, cutting-edge design, the Swiss brand Von Arkel stands apart in its achievements in applying the technical precision and craftsmanship of watchmaking to luxury frames, produced by master craftsmen in Morges in Switzerland. New sophisticated concepts will show on the Von Arkel stand at the Paris show this month: www.vonarkel.com
Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visitwww.silmoparis.comWatch our Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!
As The Matrix trend and tiny sunnies slightly wane in favour of oversized and “in your face” shelds and visors, miniature proportions for ophthalmic glasses are an essential look for autumn/winter. Several cutting-edge brands have just released interpretations of the look; they combine shapes we last saw trending in the 1990s with state-of-the-art materials and finishes for the contemporary twist. Above: 90s style glasses by Götti Switzerland
Götti Switzerland have launched lightweight models Gardin and Gafin for Autumn, a minimal expression of a 90s design in fine Japanese titanium, adjusting the look with contemporary influences for A/W 2019/20. The fine design features include narrow metal temple tips and a pure linear style. www.gotti.ch
The youthful Austrian label – neubau eyewear – also has some wire revival designs launching this month, produced in filigree stainless steel. The frames are light and have a barely-there effect on the face, gently outlining the expression of the eyes with oval and almond silhouettes.
Model Virginia by neubau has an almond eye shape and is available in a choice of colours: matte rose, glorious gold and matte ink black. Find out more about this eyewear label at www.neubau-eyewear.comCN
Sebastian Zenetti is the Co-Founder of the award-winning 3d printed eyewear label, You Mawo. The brand is pioneering a new form of 3D printed made-to-measure eyewear, which uses an ipad to take a scan of the head.
For any one who doesn’t know You Mawo, how would you explain what you are doing in the context of luxury 3D printed eyewear? We have formed a team of experts from areas outside eyewear, from optics, IT, product development, design, and business/economics. Our focus is to find new technologies, to bring them to eyewear and generate something innovative with added value for the customer. Among other things, we use the latest and most innovative production technology.
Who was originally the brains behind the brand and how has the team grown since you first launched in 2016 in Germany? You Mawo was created by four founders. Stephan Grotz is head of IT development and has more than 20 years’ experince with data analytics and algorithmic parametrisation. Daniel Szabo is head of finance and and business development. Daniel Miko is head of Design and product development. I take care of our sales team and customer support. After 3 and a half years we have grown from 4 to 40. We are developing everything by ourselves and as much as possible through our team.
What exactly is different about a You Mawo 3d printed design? And what are the frames made of? We use a special kind of polyamide from the medical industry. This material is 30% lighter than acetate and much more durable. It has great thermal properties and is adjustable with heat. Our production technology is called selective laser sintering and it is the industrial version of 3D Printing. The frames are produced, layer by layer. The benefit of this technology is that we can produce individual frames quickly and easily, and we produce as good as no waste, which makes this method completely sustainable.
As well as the main collection, you have created some pretty wild one-off frames including a cool thick framed limited edition. Can you tell us about these. These are our ‘design lab’ frames: we wanted to be able to showcase the possibilities we have with 3D printing. Our first concept in this series is ‘Metamorphosis’. Model Malina was inspired by the first sunglasses on Earth, created in bone by the Inuit.
How did you get into eyewear in the first place? – what is your previous career path and what attracted you to 3D printing? My family owns optical stores and I trained as an optician. Then I met Daniel Miko and Daniel Szabo. We realised instantly we had something in common: we are all very interested in new technologies. At some point on a backpacking trip to Southern Asia, we were talking about customization and we came up with a complete concept: You Mawo was born.
Can you give us a sneak peak of what is happening for you at the Silmo trade fair and what we can expect from the brand in 2020? This month we will launch four new models in our Design lab collection where our Designers and product development team can show what is possible with new technology. 2020 is extremely exciting for us too. We will launch new innovations including some new advanced software tools. We are hugely looking forward to the future and we can’t wait to reveal what else we are working on. For more information about You Mawo visit www.youmawo.comCN