2020

Shelter x Patrick Norguet

Shelter Manufacture collaborates with designer Patrick Norguet in ‘Fusion’, a line of glasses and sunglasses

A new line by the French eco-friendly independent label Shelter Manufacture with designer Patrick Norguet is based on complex architectural structures in Paris, London, Stockholm and Las Vegas. The collection features 10 designs in bio acetate, metal and wood with 70s undertones yet a clear and contemporary cosmopolitan aesthetic. Carefully thought out details bring a unique expression of architectural concepts and inspirations to the handcrafted range. Above: model Dublin in the new capsule collection, ‘Fusion’

Shelter x Norguet – model Stockholm

Shelter Manufacture use wood sheets from the French specialists Marotte in the creation of eyewear collections which uphold sustainable and eco-friendly values and an aesethetic direction that is minimal and timeless in its styling and colour palette. In this new collaboration, the frames are characterised by constrasting surfaces, playful yet discreet colour (including green, deep red, crystal and natural tones such as tortoiseshell), material pairings which offer something a bit different and bold variations on classic frame shapes including square, panto and multi-sided models.

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Shelter x Norguet – model Austin

Patrick Norguet is an award-winning French designer who has worked in product design, fashion and architecture. His design agency, which was founded in 2000, is based in Paris. One of his most famous designs is the Rainbow Chair for Cappellini, a work of 1999 and the first of Norguet’s products in collaboration with the Italian avantgarde design house. The new collaboration between Shelter and Norguet was announced at the Silmo HorsLesMurs event in Jardin des Tuileries, Paris in October 2020. To find out more visit the websites: www.patricknorguet.com / www.shelter-manufacture.com

Eyestylist trends: Shimmer and sparkle at Seraphin

Eyestylist update: The US label Seraphin Eyewear is known for its decorative designs, with stunning embellishments and sparkling jewellery accents. Today the collection is designed by Chief Creative Officer David Duralde, OGI Eyewear, and features the new Seraphin Shimmer, a capsule adorned with dazzling crystals by Swarovski. Eyestylist observed that the company has launched a try-on option on their website to browse the frames and see how they look on your face.

Apt for the festive season, but just as desirable by lovers of luxury through the seasons, Seraphin Shimmer expresses a mood of 1920s vintage glamour and high-fashion refinement. Above: model wears Shimmer 1, a modified rectangular butterfly with artful 1920s deco line decoration and hand-inlaid crystals.

Shimmer 1 by Seraphin Eyewear – adorned with sparkling accents

The Shimmer 1 style by Seraphin, like other frames in this series, features a delicate pattern of inlaid Swarovski crystals – the effect of which is both uplifting and illuminating on the face of the wearer. The two delicate colourways are inspired by the jazz age and the rich yet subtle fashions and finery of a Scott Fitzgerald novel.

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Shimmer 1 by Seraphin Eyewear – art deco inspired eyewear for a modern trendsetter

Seraphin Eyewear has been quick to embrace new technologies in 2020 and offers virtual try-on direct from their website at  https://www.ogieyewear.com/try-shimmer

The new campaign was shot by Mike Carreiro with model Lana Zakocela and art direction by David Duralde. Seraphin Eyewear is produced by Ogi Eyewear. See the Shimmer styles at www.ogieyewear.com/seraphin-shimmer/

Less is more: Falvin Eyewear

An Eyestylist update on Danish design: luxurious, minimal frames that will never go out of style, by jewellery designer, Birgitte Falvin

The jewellery and eyewear designer Birgitte Falvin has released new images of the AW 2020/21 Falvin styles, part of a couture line of frames with a balanced Scandinavian design mood and individualistic finely crafted jewellery details. Featured sunglasses include the Stellar model, a contemporary vision of the traditional cat’s eye shape which balances classical style and contemporary elegance – in this case, with a Danish flavour. Above: Danish model Marina Ohm wears Falvin’s Stellar shades, in matte black with matte black gold detail. The 2020 campaign for Falvin was shot by Danish photographer Henrik Adamsen.

Patrycja wears Arctic by Falvin Eyewear
In tune with geometric trends and architectural influences, ophthalmic model Arctic, pictured above in matte black and black gold detailing, highlights fine Japanese craftsmanship and a contemporary aesthetic. The large eye shape is a fresh look in the ophthalmic lines and on point for 2021.
Marina wears Twilight by Falvin Eyewear

Falvin’s Twilight frame is prestigious and unique. With a decoration of premium Top Wesselton VVS diamonds, set by Danish specialists, each jewel is mounted using traditional techniques to ensure quality, longevity and exquisitely finished designs.

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About the brand: Falvin Eyewear is creating fine eyewear – designed in Denmark and produced in Japan – using materials such as Japanese titanium, 24 carat gold, rose gold, palladium and diamonds. Creator Birgitte Falvin trained as a jewllery designer and has a special appreciation for products crafted in unique materials, inspired by exciting architecture and following the Danish design mantra of quality with focus on “less is more”. www.falvin.dk

Eyestylist update: Events for 2021

An Eyestylist update on trade fairs – 2021 looks set to welcome some new formats for the eyewear business’ trade events. Hall of Frames has joined with the You & Eye Weekend organisers to trial their new format in Lucerne in Switzerland based across venues as opposed to being held in one single place.

With the ongoing disruption to European eyewear events, the Swiss fair organisers, Hall of Frames GmbH has come up with a new opportunity for independent eyewear brands and opticians, designed for safety and wellbeing in the current climate, as well as enjoyment. Their new concept, in partnership with You & Eye Weekend (fair organisers from Sweden who arranged an eyewear event in Gothenburg in September 2020) will take place in the stunning cosmopolitan city of Lucerne in Switzerland in May. The exhibitors will be dispersed across unique venues within easy walking distance of one another so that the visiting and viewing of collections can be made both pleasurable and safe. The organisers have suggested that as well as exhibiting in hotel suites or stores, there will also be opportunities for brands to show in special private venues which are not normally open to the public.

The heart of the new event will be an electronic platform through which all registrations will be processed, and all information exchanged between the organisers, exhibitors and visitors. This platform will be activated at the beginning of January 2021 and will be regularly updated.

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Hall of Frames Weekend will take place in Lucerne, Switzerland at multiple locations from 8th to 10th May 2021. The event is designed for store owners and opticians who wish to view and purchase collections for their stores. (trade only). Also taking place in 2021, the Zurich Hall of Frames (also trade only) is planned for 12-13th September in the newly renovated Zurich Convention Centre. www.hallofframes.ch

EoE Eyewear: surprises for the season

Eco glasses – The label from Swedish Lapland pushes boldly forward with new, expressive, ideas in its sun and optical collections where contemporary design links with consistent sustainable focus and innovation. This brand proposes creative concepts distinctive in their eco-friendly commitments while combining the elegance and simplicity of Scandinavian design with the stark beauty of the nature of its homelands. Above: the cat eye model Burträsk by EoE Eyewear.

Eco glasses – Burträsk by EoE Eyewear – made from acetate remnants

A highlight of the line this season is the structured, oversized cat eye model Burträsk, a frame made from “valuable waste”.  “Normally when glasses are produced from virgin acetate, more than 75% goes to waste,” EoE told Eyestylist. “The material that isn’t used simply ends up on factory floors – considered useless. At EoE, we take care of this waste, turning it into beautiful, wearable new frame styles.”

Dorotea by EoE Eyewear

Acetate with flecks of natural fir tree needles is a novel addition in the line and the first of its kind. The Dorotea model (above) is an old-time favourite at EoE and the decorative make-over in the material is extremely elegant and eye-catching. This model is inspired by a village along highway E45. EoE explain: “The village – Dorotea – in Vasterbotten County was named after Queen Fredrika Dorotea Vilhelmina but we love the nickname, “the southern entrance to Lapland.”

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Close-up of model Dorotea in acetate with fir tree needles embedded in the material

In 2020, EoE has released a series of bestsellers in new colours and materials as a celebration of their 10th Anniversary. To read more about the 2020 editions by EoE, click on the link: www.eyestylist.com/2020/03/exclusive-collection-eoe-eyewear-for-10th-anniversary/ To see more of the latest styles by this label, visit EoE Eyewear at www.eoe-eyewear.com

Pantone 2021 tones are here

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Pantone has announced “Illuminating” and “Ultimate gray” as their two colours of 2021. This selection, they say, offers an overall message of strength, hope, optimism and resilience. The tones are close to a palette of fresh yellow hues and silvers/grey crystal hues circulating in the Autumn/Winter collections of specs and sunglasses – and shades that Eyestylist expects to develop further into Spring/Summer 2021.  The bright yellow tone ‘Illuminating’ is said to evoke “optimistic promise of a sunshine-filled day”. Ultimate Gray is described as a shade which offers “composure, steadiness and resilience”. The grey tone has a natural stone-like quality which Pantone points to as “the colour of pebbles on the beach and natural elements whose weathered appearance highlights an ability to stand the test of time.” Above: already in the Oliver Goldsmith collection: the stunning round OOPS in colour ‘steel’ (1973) – a very light, delicate grey wash with a soft crystal compliment. Click on the link to view the producthttps://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/oops/?attribute_pa_model-colour=steel

Alexandria by Andy Wolf – SS21

Model Alexandria in the Andy Wolf collection combines a milky white with flecks of yellow neon, close to the “Illuminating” hue. The wide, low cateye model is one of several examples in the collection that features a different, modern forward-focused palette and examples of clear lightly toned silver, yellowish and metallic tones and finishes. www.andy-wolf.com

theo’s Potatoes Acetate – aviator style Potatismos in yellow (ref .45)

theo belgium has always played with signature yellow tones in its avantgarde eyewear collections. The Potatoes “Acetate” line released this year features three models – Potatismos, Stoemp and Stamppot – in this bright attractive head-turning yellow tone. www.theo.be

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Thomas at Ørgreen Optics

Thomas is part of Ørgreen‘s acetate collection which takes a unique and bold approach to colour. The line has some very interesting crystal tones of clear smoke and some striking variations using very modern colour combinations and classical accents such as havana. Model Thomas is pictured here in stone blue/blue https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/11/orgreen-optics-imaginary-lines/www.orgreenoptics.com

For more on colour trends download our latest bulletin: http://eepurl.com/hkkXlv

 

LAPIMA shop opens in Brazil

An expression of the inspirations and references imbued in their designs and collections, Brazil’s no 1 artisan label for spectacles and sunglasses LAPIMA opens its first in-person store in São Paulo, Brazil. Located in the heart of the city, at CJShops, co-founder Gisela Assis describes the new store as “an extrapolation of LAPIMA’s essence, with a bold minimalist architecture.”

The spirit of Brazil’s Atlantic rain forest permeates the elegant interior. The inclusion of green peace granite is complimented by details in a warm copper hue inspired by the country’s rich terrain.  Central to the interior, the Domino bench by the Brazilian designer Claudia Moreira Salles, gives a distinctive focal point while referencing the iconic shapes of Brazilian architectural landmarks.

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LAPIMA Shop, Brazil

LAPIMA is a luxury artisan label, created by husband and wife, Gustavo and Gisela Assis. The collection is made in the couples own factory in Campinas, outside São Paulo, by skilled artisans. Adhering to traditional spectacle-making tradition with technical precision and an avantgarde perspective,  the designs focus on beautiful fine materials such as acetate and buffalo horn in a contemporary palette of natural and nature-inspired “Brazilian infused” colours. LAPIMA Shop, Rua Haddock Lobo, 1626, Sao Paulo, SP – BRAZIL www.lapima.com

Oversized glasses: Peoples from Barbados

As the eyewear brands hail “oversized” as a key trend for ’21, the Peoples from Barbados PFB-16 is one that fits right in, while preserving an individual structured statement design that’s special to this collection, born in Barbados. Modelled by blue-eyed Barbadian beauty Jalicia Nightengale and photographed by Jaryd Niles Morris, the stylish coloring of the frame originates from the traditional wooden “chattel” house after which it is named.

Jalicia Nightengale wears Peoples from Barbados

Known particularly for its sensational colorful sunglasses collection, filled with an incredible colour palette and design details inspired by the natural beauty and traditions of the Bajan culture, Peoples from Barbados by Alicia Hartman has become known for its successful balance of statement design and comfort and fit across its glasses range. (more…)

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Tania Grace Knuckey: handmade silk scarves

“Playfulness is a serious matter”

Award-winning textile designer Tania Grace Knuckey created her first scarf collection in 2015 as a one-off – mainly with friends and family in mind, and now she can’t stop! Fantastical creatures, exciting graphic colour mixes, and nature-inspired motifs are the focal elements of her playful creative world of silky scarves that are as much heirloom pieces of art as they are wearable accessories, with a contemporary and truly uplifting spirit. Above: Dinosaurs: Dino – 2020 – silk twill, made in France – limited edition

L’Oeil from the Soft Beast collection by Tania Grace Knuckey – made in France

In the most recent series of collections, dinosaurs, serpents, ‘soft’ beasts, dogs and lobsters are among the friendly-faced creatures portrayed against colourful asymmetrical abstract backgrounds with “naive” handwritten messages – all conceived through exciting colour mixes on the silk and a strong attention to detail and hand finishing.

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Arlo: silk twill – limited edition “portrait” silk scarf by Tania Grace Knuckey – made in France

About : Tania Grace Knuckey is a textile designer and multi-media artist living and working in Geneva, Switzerland. She graduated from Design Academy Eindhoven in 2009 with a Cum Laude BA in Design and from The Royal College of Art London in 2012 with an MA in mixed media textiles. Her artistic practice is playful with an unapologetic bold use of colour, and yet behind this aesthetic, more often than not, is a level of seriousness borne out of steady research. She seeks to surprise at times, to titillate perhaps, but always to unsettle the norm, questioning conventional notions of form and function. In 2015 Tania launched her limited edition silk scarves; unique, vibrant and playful. The manner in which colour folds, falls, intermingles, and intertwine when worn is particularly important as she spends a great deal of care designing and combining each motif to ensure it is authentic. Inspired from nature, animals and fantastical creatures, Tania’s scarf are a reminder that playfulness is a serious matter, that mark- making possibilities are endless, colours have power and prints can take on a life of their own. Knuckey’s work is available at Paradigme in Geneva, the Cloister in Milan and from her website at https://taniagraceknuckey.com

 

3D graphic statements: FACE A FACE

Stripes for the face: Bocca Pixel 3 and Bahia 3 by FACE A FACE

A few gorgeous and graphic horizontal striped frames have come to our attention this season, as the fashion trend for bold stripes – horizontal, vertical and/or zigzag, wide narrow or even classic marine styles  – really holds renewed appeal.  Whether it’s because it’s a trend that’s viewed as a safe and easy staple, the slight nod to the popular 1990s fashion era is also in its favour.

Among the stripey glasses highlights we spotted at the independent labels are modern acetate editions Bahia 3 and Pixel 3 by French label FACE A FACE – both using a translucent lined acetate with a delicate yet “digitalised” look that presents a graphic and bold illusion of movement, right across the front. Above: the Bahia3 by FACE A FACE in stripes with red detail; this chic style is also available in two other color variations, a striking blue and a bright fresh turquoise. The frame concept is inspired by Op Art and comes in four different wearable shapes.

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BOCCA Pixel 3: a one-of-a-kind visual treat – with a pixelated edging and horizontal narrow lines in transparent striped amber acetate

The Pixel 3, a style in the well known Bocca collection is the most out there of the two “striped” designs, with its extraordinary edging, in a series of steps inspired by the labyrinths of the Dutch artist, M.C. Escher. The cute end tips, once “heels” or shoes” – are now abstracted – replaced by a pixel form with tiny highlighter toned fluo details. BOCCA Pixel 3 comes in a total of 5 amazing colorways, including transparent striped amber and a very exciting graduated frozen bordeaux.

FACE A FACE glasses are available at fine independent optical retailers. To see more of our latest “favourite finds” in the FACE A FACE collections click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/11/op-art-inspired-face-a-face-hollow/ For more details and to locate your nearest stockist, visit www.faceaface-paris.com. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. All rights reserved.

Intuitive colour: Folc Eyewear

Barcelona-based designer Marta Llinares Perez of Folc Eyewear has a particularly beautiful mood-enhancing glasses colour palette for the months ahead

Seasonal colours for Spring are already on our Eyestylist horizons as winter sets in! And with the intense situation of recent months, a move toward calm, positive, tranquil colours looks set to be an immediately appealing, essential stimulus for good energy and optimism in 2021.

Folc Eyewear’s (Barcelona) new imagery struck a chord with our editorial team. The colour palette of the collection – which features striking, bevelled architectural acetate shapes, some with an oversized design and ‘sculpted’ finish – includes light tones of aqua and touches of blue as well as deeper forest green hues and delightful transparent cantaloupe or rose. Above: model Roundy – glasses colour – aqua mix by Folc Eyewear

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Folc Eyewear – model Lizy green combo – with a deep red temple tone

These tones, against a fresh and stimulating backdrop + styling focusing on details in coral, aqua mint and soft neutrals were instantly representative of a definitive trend toward a softness and lightness in the new collections, paving the way for a new vibrancy and visual purity that calls for simple, flattering tones that we can easily enjoy to wear. (more…)

Retro classic style: Fleye – Edward

Fusing modern materials together in one small spectacle design is an art, and one at which the finest of the independent labels excel. The modern style of the Edward frame by Fleye Copenhagen – one of Denmark’s leaders in fine frame creation – is an example of a combination in raw carbon fibre, colored wood and beta-titanium, where each material complements another, balancing lightness and comfort, alongside contemporary style and design. Above: model Edward by Fleye Copenhagen – a round eye shape with narrow beta titanium bridge and hinge detail

Close-up of model Edward by Fleye Copenhagen – 3 materials in one frame

“Each frame is the intersection of craft and art, representing our vision for modern designs, crafted to last.” Fleye Copenhagen

Part of the Elements of Art collection, a range designed as a tribute to the Thorvaldsens Museum in Copenhagen, achieved through a thorough and complex project of experimentation and creative research, this frame offers a shape suited to men and women, with exceptional refinement in the finish and the surface pattern of the wood and an interesting minimal colour palette, reproduced with skill and precision in different artistic combinations.

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For more details about the Fleye Copenhagen collection “Elements of Art” click on the link: https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/09/fleye-copenhagen-elements-of-art-2/

Op-art inspired: FACE A FACE Hollow

The Parisian label proposes a new visual experience in its latest collections. Hollow, a concept playing with transparency, neon and multi-textured surfaces is one of the highlights in the collection for the season to come.

Bold. Intense. Almost dizzying. With artistic references, interpreted in creative “graphic effects”. Hollow by FACE A FACE is one of the concept styles for the new season, a grouping of frames crafted in homage to artists of extraordinary stature: Escher, Vasarely and Bridget Riley. Above: the new FACE A FACE campaign, featuring the Hollow frame.

HOLLOW1: layering up in new season colour – a bold, round eye shape by FACE A FACE

Hollow1 – now available in 8 individualistic colorways, is at its most dramatic in the new flash blue under a contrasting shocking fresh papaya tone that highlights the details. Furthermore, the style boasts a precision machined shaping under the temple, with a front that displays different layers to create texture and an illusion of light. The frame is closely inspired by Bridget Riley and her works where geometry and optical effects are explored along with exciting notions of how to combine colours where the tones boldly echo one another and interact together.

HOLLOW3 – a classic shape with a colourful update

In Hollow3, neon touches punctuate the completely clear temple tips, and seem to be suspended in the air; the glittery and pearly tones highlight the futuristic spirit of the design.

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Created in Paris more than 20 years ago, FACE A FACE has become a contemporary reference in eyewear. Inspired by the boldness of modern art – a beloved theme of creative director Pascal Jaulent – the brand remains audacious and avant-garde while displaying a creativity in colours and expressions that has brought them recognition and accolades through many years. For further details: www.faceaface-paris.com 

Written by Clodagh Norton, Eyestylist.com – all rights reserved.

Local treasure: Ottica Rossi, Tuscany

Traditional Italian stores, Ottica Rossi and sister store Ottica Talluto, dedicated to professionalism and an offer of unique eyewear, have an established authentic history of serving their community. The owner Luca Rossi told us he has added his own limited sunglasses line to his selection of eyewear – a project he has dedicated to the local people and the beautiful landscapes of the Tuscan region.

In the dreamy seaside towns of Orbetello and Maremma (Tuscany), Luca Rossi’s traditional optical boutiques  – Ottica Rossi and Ottica Talluto – offer a combination of traditional eyecare services with a wide choice of frames and sunglasses – selected for the local community and, in normal seasons, a stream of tourists and visitors who come to the area for sun and relaxation. The eyewear collections in the stores currently include famous fashion collections and independent brands Barton Perreira, Seeoo and Maui Jim, as well as the Italian classic, Persol.

Ottica Rossi – the Ottica Rossi sunglasses edition

Rossi’s dedication and passion for his work has culminated in a new project in 2020. The optician has created his own collection of  10 sunglass models, produced locally in Italy and inspired by the location of the stores. Featuring classic colours of ochre, tortoise and black and retro-inspired shapes popularised by the stars of the Italian cinema of the 1950s and 60s the line is designed as a connection to the local Italian region, with a nostalgic and classical style, a nod to “la dolce vita”.

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Ottica Talluto Orbetello and Ottica Rossi Argentario present a wide range of eyewear

About – In the heart of Porto Santo Stefano, overlooking the sea, Talluto Ottica first opened in 1987, to serve the local community and tourists visiting the town. Ottica Rossi is located in Porto Santo Stefano, close to the sea front. Today both stores are run by optician, optometrist and contactologist Luca Rossi. www.otticarossi.it Written by Clodagh Norton – all rights reserved

MYKITA Shop Hamburg

Continuing its roll-out of new stores with a focus on cities closer to home, MYKITA has opened their first Hamburg store at Neuer Wall 88.

Located between the city’s canals and shopping boulevards, the shop brings the distinctively modern design aesthetic of the Berlin brand to the heritage-listed Stadthöfe, a recently restored architectural ensemble steeped in baroque and neo-renaissance style.

The fourth shop to open in Germany, it offers MYKITA’s comprehensive range of optical services using state-of-the-art instruments from optical partner, Zeiss. The full MYKITA product portfolio is available – the ultra-light stainless steel eyewear designs, mixed material models, and award-winning MYKITA MYLON collection made with 3D printing technology – as well as the design collaborations with Maison Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Leica.

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Neon signage marks the street-level shop location in the ‘Palaishaus’ built in 1881. Once inside the six-metre high doorway, visitors are welcomed into a modern, warm atmosphere with a seated consultation area, providing an unrushed and comfortable space to receive a personal and professional optical service. Eyes are immediately drawn to the open mezzanine level and the view of the optical lab and workshop used for in-store frame adjustments and lens fittings. Construction details and furnishings in a deep orange shade break up the reigning warm, neutral tones of wood and stone.

In addition to the MYKITA Shop Hamburg, the brand now has 14 shops worldwide, including locations in Bangkok, Barcelona, Berlin, Cartagena, Los Angeles, Monterrey, Munich, New York, Paris, Taipei, Tokyo, Washington and Zurich. For more information visit www.mykita.com

Emerging label: Shelter

Elegant, eco-friendly, and made-in-France

Luxurious, design-focused and crafted in the Jura, the team behind up-and-coming eco brand Shelter says their passion is creativity and working with natural wood.

The main collection – Renaissance, featuring compressed wood layers and metal, is based around an intense 2-year development for a patent. “The frames are light, thin yet flexible and strong,” Amicie de Bouteiller told Eyestylist in an interview this week. “We developed them making sure that the lenses can easily be placed in the frame. The Smartwood patent is in the glue and the technique we have developed for compressing the thin layers of wood.” Above: model Gabrielle by Shelter worn by Agnès.

Andrea in the Renaissance collection by Shelter

A second collection, Douce France, which takes as its reference from the beauty of the French forests, features bio-acetate with the essence and “feeling” of different types of French wood, a choice which includes palm, spruce, walnut burl and crab apple. The materials in this line are exclusively recycled or recyclable.

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Jean in the Renaissance collection by Shelter

Making their first appearance at Silmo, the Paris optical fair, in 2018, Shelter who are based in Cran Gevrier, Annecy exhibited at the recent Silmo Hors Les Murs, this year’s “substitute road show” event which opened in Paris in Jardin des Tuileries in October.

Gabin in walnut burl from the Douce France collection by Shelter

The brand’s commitment to sustainable values and eco-friendly production is manifested in many ways from the selection of materials – which includes upcycled wood sheets from the French specialists Marotte – and a commitment to a philosophy of “less is more”: “for each new frame, we attach a real importance to not being wasteful in the use of the primary material.” Find out more at: www.shelter-manufacture.com 

Frame Chain’s co-founders

FRAME CHAIN – The pain of misplacing your favourite pair of glasses is something we can all relate to, Annie and Vanessa – the founders of FRAME CHAIN, are no different. It was after losing countless pairs of designer sunglasses that the epiphany of FRAME CHAIN came to light; not only an efficient and aesthetic solution to an everyday problem, but one that doubles as a high-quality piece of glamorous jewellery. This brand has given a resurgence to the glasses chain I once knew to be a “grandma staple” – now spotted on catwalks from Gucci to Chanel, and available across luxury department stores and retail outlets worldwide. 

I would love to know a little bit about the founders of FRAME CHAIN, could you tell us a little about how you two came together? Annie: My path wasn’t really linear, I was obsessed with the entertainment industry for most of my life – a failed professional singer/dancer, so, I headed into marketing in the music and film industry. That was in-spite of studying biology, chemistry and maths beforehand – I wanted to be a surgeon at one point and a lawyer at another. It was my marketing degree that really kept me interested, though. I met Vanessa when I was working temporarily at Oasis – I had fallen up an escalator with a tray of cupcakes, and she was the designated first aid / Visual Merchandising extraordinaire. I consulted in a number of jobs – always in industries facing huge change; I was at Nokia and Microsoft before going to LOEWE. I have almost always had another job as well as FRAME CHAIN, topping up with consulting gigs along the way.

Vanessa: I started off by studying textiles at Loughborough University, as part of my degree I decided to do a year in industry working for a print fashion studio in London – here, I fell in-love with fashion and interior design. After I graduated I dabbled in different areas in the industry, which enabled me to set up my own business in interior styling. I met Annie when I worked in Visual Merchandising and I thought “Oh my life who is this girl?” – the rest is history, she is the best business partner and friend in the world. Above: Vanessa (left) and Annie (right) of FRAME CHAIN, London outside a FRAME CHAIN event at Cutler & Gross

FRAME CHAIN: a solution for your mask

Why do you think glasses chains, which are obviously a necessity to many of us, disappeared in the first place? We always say they didn’t really disappear – they just became less popular – along with trends like MC hammer pants, mullets, stone wash denim, smiley T’s or kick flares. Then, like all good things – they come back eventually; with the help of some tireless plugging, a little bit of luck and a lot of hard work.

Until recent years glasses chains were seen as something only grandmothers wore – my grandma wore fabulous gold chain ones and some with tiny freshwater pearls – I would kill for them now; what do you think enabled the resurgence of glasses chains as a popular ‘trendy’ accessory?  We love this question – go Grandma! There are all kinds of theories about how trends start, and now there is social media to add to the mix; how many people carry a smartphone in their pocket? That brings with it an inevitable shift of behaviour and constant communication, plus there is also a complete democratisation of retail with ecommerce. Before things like Shopify or Instagram we had to solely rely on the taste levels of buyers to add products to a store – so the momentum was strained – now people can build a ‘direct to consumer’ brand in a matter of weeks. We were lucky that the independent eyewear business seemed to kick off around the same time we got started; people generally wanted to consume differently and independent eyewear brands became a much more visible thing. We found people who understood what we were doing and began to grow day by day, chain by chain, customer by customer…we restricted access and focused on fashion accounts. I think we really hit momentum when Browns and Matchesfashion approached us, then, about 2 years ago – Gucci, Chanel, and Berluti were just a few of the brands beginning to push glasses chains down the runway. Brands like those highly validate a trend indeed, now everyone – Gentle Monster, Kaleos and Linda Farrow are echoing what we have created.

FRAME CHAIN: A solution for your eyewear

One thing I find particularly interesting with FRAME CHAIN is the ability to use the glasses chain as jewellery; are the chains utilised more as jewellery or as chains? Annie: Our concept was to create a chain that could double as jewellery with 100% true equal use. Vanessa was a jewellery designer and really insisted on this feature as she didn’t wear glasses, even now she rarely even wears them; she really saw it as something else. I wanted something practical that looked good – Vanessa gave it a beautiful spin and a big point of difference from the very beginning. Judging from what we see on social and in the street, it’s probably 50/50 in terms of how our chains are worn.

The new VINTAGE DISCO collection is fabulous – it seems to encapsulate everything the young people are craving across the world right now; dancing, glamour, getting dolled up and having a good time. Was the inspiration for this collection ignited pre or post pandemic? Also, if you could dress as though you were from only one era of style, what would it be and why? Annie: I love this question. Without fail, it would be the 70’s for me; disco, denim, glam, slogan t-shirts, platforms, sequins, sexy, casual, feminine, suits – oh god I could go on! The inspiration was pre-pandemic, we plan our collections about a year in advance. The original idea was to wear these on a dance floor, so now that isn’t possible, it’s become more about having a little slice of that ‘disco’ mood even if the ‘disco’ itself is absent – a reason to celebrate.

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Vanessa: Oh how exciting, I like this game; for me, my favourite era style-wise would be the 1920’s – I love the embellishment and pure decadence.

A solution for your mobile phone: new at FRAME CHAIN this season, MAXSIE and MINI phone chains

In light of the pandemic, the trend of face masks has erupted globally, has FRAME CHAIN joined in with this evolving fashion niche? Well of course – we are in it! We started showing masks on chains almost from the very beginning; all of our chains can be used as a mask chain. We also give reusable masks away for free with every purchase on the web – we are cooking up some other plans, but we can tell you about them later.

What accessories, other than FRAME CHAINS of course, can’t you leave the house without? Annie: I am generally wearing at least two FRAME CHAINS – one for reading glasses, one for sunnies and probably one or two as necklaces. I always wear my diamond ring that was a gift from my parents for my 21st, Manolo Blahnik heels, a LOEWE or Bottega Venetta Handbag and a spritz of BYREDO fragrance. Vanessa: I can’t leave the house without my rings that I have collected over the years, most as gifts from my parents, and at the moment – my mask, of course – with my FRAME CHAIN attached to it!

FRAME CHAIN has become such a well established brand – appearing in most of the major department stores across the UK, as well as across Europe and beyond; what can we expect next? Thank you for saying this – we still feel like we are building and growing – yet there is still so much to do. We do have more exciting new products in the pipeline for next year. We will let you know when we are ready to share!

FRAME CHAIN is a brand founded by two brilliantly diverse and creative women, and their innovative, stylish product range is a testament to them; with such a rapidly evolving brand, on the forefront of a trend that seems to be emerging more prominently in the catalogues of every major brand – I can’t wait to see what comes next for Vanessa, Annie and of course – FRAME CHAIN. Shop the FRAME CHAIN styles online at www.framechain.co.uk  Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com

Nina Mûr: an ode to optimism

An experiment comes to fruition: The Good Quarantine collection 2020, produced in a virtual collaboration with opticians around the world

Sustainable principles, a shared human experience and a creative vision: Nina Mûr’s Good Quarantine collection has launched this season. Through a process of virtual consultation and an exchange of ideas during the isolation of lockdown in April and May, the concepts for each model grew out of shared experiences and design discussion, fueling creativity as an “escape” in difficult and uncertain times. Above: model Bux in blue steel / hammered gold. The imagery in the new campaign was inspired by haunting images of David Lynch

Ansostyle in the TGQ Limited Edition Collection

“We collected the cinematographic and surrealism of the moment that we lived during lockdown, while we created this very special collection together….” Lorena Serrano, co-founder and creative director

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Participating opticians were eventually invited to submit their original designs to be voted on by a panel of professionals, among which Eyestylist was delighted to take part. The resulting collection includes 5 models – Alohe, Ansostyle, Ottificio, Bux and R&B, each one made to order in the label’s high-quality birch wood, a material that is flexible, lightweight and perfectly sustainable, with origins in a reforested cultivation in Finland.

Model R&B in the TGQ Limited Edition collection

For more details about the TGQ project read Eyestylist’s first feature about the collection written in April 2020 during lockdown: https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/04/from-lockdown-nina-mur-launch-collaborative-design-project/ For details about the frames which are made-to-order, visit www.ninamur.com

Animal magic: a classic print from Lafont Paris

All focus on the animal print

The extraordinary versatility of a frame as an accessory, the possibility of wearing chic animal prints or exciting shapes on the face, unusual colour combinations and fashionable designs that are as graceful and decorative as they are bold in making a statement, this is a world we continue to study and admire, across trends and seasonal expressions – in the world of fine eyewear.

For animal-inspired prints, with an air of distinguished quality and Parisian know-how, with the special attention to detail and colour typical of a fine fabric, Lafont Paris remains a remarkable leader – bringing its history and heritage into the style, and reproducing it for the modern wearer. Often playfully incorporated as a trim, as in the recent Gauloise model (100), the leopard prints are always particularly spectacular, with a level of definition and colour precision in the material that is difficult to find elsewhere.

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Gauloise by Lafont Paris – in chic black with leopard trim – the frame is also available in pink, beige, and tortoiseshell

Lafont Paris is an historic leader in French eyewear design, and all their frames are produced in the renowned spectacle-making region of the Jura. The boutiques in Paris – in Boulevard Raspail, Rue Vignon, and Rue de Sévigné represent the ongoing life and creative vitality of the Lafont collections alongside its rich archive, fully displayed at the original Rue Vignon shop, where the evolution of their exotic and chic prints can still be studied and admired today. Find out more about Lafont on Eyestylist at https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/10/lafont-paris/ Visit the Lafont Paris website at www.lafont.com

 

Eyeglass styles 2020: Paradigm

In homage to the scholarly, distinguished appeal of eyeglass styles of the 1950s, new model 20-22 by Paradigm, part of a grouping of frames from this independent label, offers eye-catching eyewear chic in interesting, contemporary colours. Above: model wears 20-22 by Paradigm. The frame is one of four new optical styles and four new sunglasses from the brand – designed to complement a wide range of faces

Paradigm 20-22, a winter launch at Kenmark Eyewear – pictured in “umber”

The smart shape of 20-22 uses a popular metal/acetate combination construction successfully incorporating vintage lines and modern colours of sky, grey, and umber.

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Paradigm sunglasses 20-61

Paradigm’s focus on comfort, wearability, flattering shapes and predominantly light translucent colours is further enhanced in this series by delightful new detailing and something unexpected, particularly in the sunglass releases where playful tricks with acetate inserts and strong shapes are beautifully articulated. Our current favourite? This reimagined aviator (20-61) in the sunglasses series (it is also offered as an optical), a style which boasts a classically shaped lens enhanced by  unusual acetate edging for a special style-driven statement. Find out more about Paradigm at https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/09/paradigm-emerging-trends-vintage-inspo/ www.kenmarkeyewear.com

The new home of Erker’s, St. Louis, Missouri

A new Erker’s flagship store has opened in St. Louis, Missouri in 2020, the latest and most luxurious in a long line of optical stores run by the Erker family through their extraordinary 141 year history.

“The Saint Louis Galleria is the premier shopping destination in Saint Louis where the top stores are located,”  Jack Erker III told Eyestylist. “The customers are from many demographics and come from all over to shop with us. Our focus is the hard-to-get-quality boutique brands including two of our own, Erker’s 1879 and NW77th.”

The Erker’s 1879 collection is one of the highlights in the shop

Alongside an eclectic range of collections by Barton Perreira, Dita, Cazal, Tom Ford and Jacques Marie Mage, the Erker’s 1879 collection represents an exclusive reference to the local legacy of a company that has served its community through generations. “Since the brand has deep roots, it resonates very well within the local market,” says Erker. “Many customers travel all over and see our brand in other markets as well and this lends to deep credibility within our local market. The focus of the store is primarily our brands, and are supplemented with other niches of brands that go well with our own.”

Bright lights and chic cabinet displays at the new Erker’s store (Saint Louis Galleria)

The decoration and design of the interior is classical with a luxurious orientation in line with the high-end feel of the St Louis Galleria, with clear, eye-catching branding.

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“Our brand is well known in our market and our customers still yearn for a brick and mortar store to give the service to the customers that they are used to receiving from us,” says Jack Erker when we asked about the key benefits of the store, even in the current climate. “The traffic in the mall allows us to have a larger reach to continue to grow the brand within the region. The local community is thrilled for us to be growing and it adds momentum internally within our family (employees).”

About Erker’s: Describing itself as the first optical laboratory west of the Mississippi River, Erker’s was founded in 1879 by A.P. Erker and brother, August. Today the company is led by the great-grandson Jack Jr. with his two sons, Jack III and Tony. Erker’s is one of the oldest eyewear establishments in the US with the rare claim that it is still owned by members of founding family. The family’s own extensive eyewear collection, Erker’s 1879 can be viewed directly at  www.erkers1879.com. For additional information visit www.studiooptyx.com

Ørgreen Optics: Imaginary Lines

New models launched: Ørgreen Optics’ ultra thin eyewear in advanced titanium

The Danish brand’s new Imaginary Lines collection pays tribute to the Ørgreen ethos of innovation combined with material quality, design precision and colour nuances. The seven new models announced are testimony to a label that continues to push boundaries with creative drive and a committed design attitude resulting in contemporary proposals in unique and refreshing colours. Above & below: Balancing colour and design in the Imaginary Lines collection: Model Hemishere by Ørgreen

Model Hemishere by Ørgreen in mat Miami Ocean green

The classically inspired shapes include model Hemisphere, a perfectly round frame, inspired by the imaginary lines that define the globe. A delicate but impactful frame,  the design embodies the lightness of state-of-the-art titanium and the elegance of the brand’s colour world. The colorways range from a shiny rose gold to mat miami ocean green / mat white gold – a light, pure and delicate combination for natural skin tones.

Model Tropics by Ørgreen, in mat lavender with mat rose gold

Not to be mistaken with tropical islands, the Tropics frame is named after the regions of Earth surrounding the Equator. A fashion forward frame – distinct for its characteristic geometrical shape, this style is offered in a range of six colours, including mat deep space blue / mat rose gold, and mat brown / shiny gold.

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Model Border by Ørgreen in antique blue

A highlight for men, the Border frame is also the result of a meticulous design – with emphasis on an ultra slim and cool looking double bridge. A wide frame (available in size 56-16-137) and made to fit larger faces, it comes in a range of six colours, including trendy antique finishes of blue, gun or teal.

Ørgreen Optics is an innovator in the field of eyewear with collections which include acetate and precious metals – titanium and beta-titanium. Find out more about the new Imaginary Lines capsule collection highlighting combinations of 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium at https://orgreenoptics.com/

Sustainable creator: Cristiano Ferilli

Cristiano Ferilli is a qualified ophthalmologist by day and a designer by night. If that alone doesn’t strike you as an accomplishment, Cristiano founded Ferilli Eyewear; the first eyewear brand to use cactus fibre – Sikalindi – in the manufacture of their Italian-made frames.

Cristiano, you speak of falling in love with the world of eyewear at the age of sixteen – forgive me if this is a backwards notion, but it’s perhaps quite an unusual attraction for a young boy to develop at such an age – how did this passion first ignite? When you’re a 16-year-old boy, I believe that you normally have a secret wish in life – it’s up to you to truly believe in that wish and make it come true. I think what pushed me back then was attending the Mido 2010 trade show and seeing so many sunglasses made with different kinds of materials. I said to myself then that when I was older, I would discover my own material to create my sunglasses.

Would you be able to tell us a little about your career path, did you always envision yourself working within the fashion industry? No, not at all. After getting an optician’s diploma at high school, I graduated with a degree in Orthoptic and Ophthalmologic Assistance, continuing that career path in clinics and hospitals. However, right after university I made my first sunglasses collection; I believed in it so passionately that Ferilli Eyewear has become my job today. While I’m busy with work as an orthoptist in a clinic, I’m also committed to creative projects as a designer for my brand.

Ferilli Eyewear: a sustainable collection using prickly pear fibre

How is it that your brand Ferilli goes beyond the concept of ‘just an accessory’? Prickly pear fibre creates a very particular pattern on every frame. I like to think that they are not just sunglasses, but they can be considered a fully-fledged design element that add a unique touch to a look, and that they are a distinctive feature that help define the wearer’s personality. Moreover, I care about the functionality of my sunglasses, not only about their design, and this applies also to the choice of lens.

Being the only brand of eyewear that uses Sikalindi is an amazing claim to be able to make, especially in an industry where the consumer is growing more aware of the impact of their purchases, and many brands are trying to find the newest, most innovative way to forge a sustainable future – tell us a bit more about producing frames with Sikalindi? In the region where I live – Puglia, in southern Italy – prickly pears are fast-growing plants, and sometimes there are so many of them that entire areas need to be cut down and thinned out. To obtain the fibre itself, we dehydrate the leaves of the plants through various physical processes – but without using chemical agents or pollutants. In this way we can extract the material we need, while respecting the environment and the natural cycle of the plant.

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Ferilli Eyewear: the frames display the patterns of the natural fibre

I assume you subscribe to the idea that the consumer needs to  ‘buy smart’ and ‘buy less’ in order for our planet and resources to survive? Why should the consumer invest in a pair of Ferilli sunglasses, in your opinion? Our products guarantee functionality from a technical point of view and they are made with a unique, sustainable material. Our aim is to be creative and innovative producing naturally beautiful sunglasses that respect the environment.

Finally, your website says that you hope to develop some new ‘sparkling ideas’ in the future – is there anything on the horizon? I can tell you that the prickly pear fibre will be incorporated into other materials, and we are meticulously studying new models that will amaze you!

To find out more about Ferilli visit www.ferillieyewear.com. Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton exclusively for Eyestylist.com

 

Winter Sun with Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

Millinaire, an original shape from the OG archive, first launched in 1968

In 1968, when Millinaire was first launched designer Oliver Goldsmith was already dressing the stars and providing innovative statement eyewear for men and women with a taste for fashion and unique attention-grabbing style. They were appearing on magazine covers, were worn by the likes of Grace Kelly, Peter Sellers and Michael Caine, and famously popped up in movies such as Breakfast at Tiffany’s (on Audrey Hepburn in 1961).

Millinaire in classic black – the frame is also available in lilac or “anchor” grey

Today the Millinaire model has returned – reintroduced into the Icons Collection at OG as part of the brand’s unique Winter Sun edition for 2020/21.  The small oval shape – typical of the 1960s – is one of the classic shapes that remains integral to the evolution of the brand and its exciting history. The fine handcrafted detailing and design features such as the thick and elegant acetate temples and small subtle metal pins, on front and sides, are carefully reproduced as they were in their original form – and paired with state-of-the-art modern Zeiss sun lenses with especially light tints –  to suit the winter sun.

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The original Millinaire model from 1968 is one of over 70 pairs of glasses and sunglasses held at the V&A Museum in London – find out more at https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-oliver-goldsmith-glasses-collection#slideshow=61993239512&slide=0 – To view the new Millinaire online visit https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/millinaire-ws/

 

RES/REI: The Essences Collection

Like a perfume, created by mixing and matching beautiful scents, the Essences collection is conceived through the balancing of transparencies and hundreds of unique colour compositions

New release: The Essences collection by Italian eyewear creators RES/REI is inspired by the magical world of perfume – with a delicate spirit and careful study of light effects with an interplay of colour. Just as fragrances are created by blending different ingredients, the eyewear in the Essences collection is the result of a careful equilibrium of design details and the balance and contrasts created through transparency and vibrant colours. Above: model Anise in dark havana, purple, green and shiny silver.

Almond by RES/REI in grey havana, red and green

With delicate shapes, embellished with metal temples in light shades, the styles – such as model Almond have complex bi- and tri- colour combinations which, when seen on the wearer appear to have a coloured line floating on the face, framing the eyes.

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Model Amber by RES/REI in dark havana, purple, green with shiny silver temples

RES/REI’s philosophy puts design, colour and attention to details at the centre of its creative direction requiring a deep and focused approach to research and innovation, to provide contemporary spectacles with a consistently surprising and artistic style and individuality. This season, the brand, whose collections are made by skilled artisans in Northern Italy has launched several new lines in addition to The Essences collection. They include the Diamonds Collection and The Galaxies Collection. Find out more about RES/REI at www.resrei.com

Something for the weekend: theo

theo Lavalands “hot vs. cold” – geologic-inspired designs, in daring colours

Inspired by the raw encounters of the forces of nature – hot lava and cool seawater – and the creation of unique volcanic islands, a new series by theo pushes the boundaries of eyewear creativity for the new season – as we’d expect – with stark contrasts in materials and powerful somewhat awe-inspiring colour choices. The five frames – named after well-known volcanic islands – Santorini (Italy), Maui (Hawaii), Flores (Indonesia), Karukera (Guadeloupe) and Aogashima (Japan) combine warm acetate and cool steel, with contrasting angles, smooth surfaces and strong, exhilarating shapes – all in their own way daring, idiosyncratic and spectacularly dramatic. Above: model Karukera by theo in the Lavalands collection – an iconic round shape in the series.

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Model Aogashima by theo © 2020 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Each model is available in eight contrasting colours and materials, with highlights including fiery tones of yellow and orange and signature theo colours of bright blue, cool “ash” grey and hot pink. The line is one of three new collections themed under the motto “theo goes upstream” – promising an injection of absolute uniqueness and personal style – in pure design that goes far beyond its functional purpose. Access more visuals and further details on Lavalands at theo’s website – www.theo.be

Mykita Lite: essentials for the season

Mykita’s edit in the Lite collection for autumn/winter points to timeless qualities in classic eyewear shapes and essential technical precision to create frames that are easy-to-wear while imbued with a stylish spirit for today. The models are strong yet understated, and come in predominantly natural tones, to complete the autumn wardrobe, metallics and neutrals such as dark brown, mocca and raw green for lenses. Above: Mykita Lite Jul – a lightweight stainless steel frame with slender acetate details – image from the 2020 campaign shot by Mark Borthwick for Mykita.

Paulson from the Mykita Lite collection, combining stainless steel + acetate

The classic panto shape model Paulson is offered both as an ophthalmic frame or sunglass style. For sunglasses, the tinted lenses of the Lite collection have anti-reflective coatings on the reverse side and total protection from UVA and UVB rays as well as protection from glare.

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Flemming in the Mykita Lite collection – pictured in glossy gold

Round shape Flemming is a wonderful balance of comfort and lightness, with a simple construction and fine lines, and it comes in metallics such as gold or silver as well as black or navy. The frame is one of those classic designs that reflects an iconic look of the past in a union with modern manufacturing. Mykita Lite frames are defined by their smooth contemporary silhouettes and pure constructions and are made exclusively in Berlin, Germany at the Mykita Haus (Kreuzberg).  Find out more at www.mykita.com

Sustainable eyewear: Sea2see for aw 20/21

New releases: setting the agenda for timeless, comfortable designs in recycled marine plastic

In a climate that continues to make sustainability a more pressing priority in fashion, independent eyewear label Sea2see is achieving notoriety as eyewear’s eco disruptor, wherever it goes. As well as their social enterprise initiatives in Africa for the collection of waste – creating a new source of income for local communities – the brand has recently launched a special edition ‘Chinook’ Collection of sunglasses supporting @searchingforchinook – an initiative to protect the last 72 Southern resident orcas. Sea2see also works closely with leading retailers around the world to promote their “seastainable” values and initiatives for recycling marine plastic…among them is the Canadian chain New Look Eyewear whose latest campaign for Sea2see features the vegan activist and eco influencer Jessie Nadeau. Above: New Look campaign with Sea2see: Jessie Nadeau wears model Verona 03 by Sea2see. Photo courtesy of New Look Eyewear. www.newlook.ca

Murano by Sea2see – a bold construction with key hole bridge

A keyhole bridge detail gives model Murano a distinctive retro design in line with the trend for timeless styles. The frame has an oval eyeshape with a thick rim. Colours include matte black (above), blue and matte havana.

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Santorini by Sea2see – a classic round shape with narrow flattering frame shaping

The intellectual round shape model Santorini is a new entry in the autumn/winter line and comes in a choice of bold colour combinations of red/blue or retro-inspired classics such as black or tortoise (pictured).

Sea2see’s contemporary, lightweight, robust frames are made from the company’s own recycled material deriving from marine plastic and collected by Sea2see’s initiative – established in Europe and West Africa over the last four years. The collection is made in Italy and is now available worldwide through independent retailers and leading chains such as Synsam in Scandinavia (www.synsam.se) and  New Look in Canada (www.newlook.ca). Find out more and see the new models online at www.sea2see.org