Timeless, detail conscious, with a peerless level of craft
Four distinctive shapes, created with luxury materials and precise artisan workmanship. The quality of eyewear designed with dedication and exceptional attention to detail, as it was in past decades, continues to garner attention, underlining traditional values with reflection on genuine workmanship and innovation.
At the German company Coblens, the metal collection ‘Schiffahrtsstrasse’ – with focus on titanium, made in Japan – presents very narrow rimmed classic shapes this season – where every detail is visible, functional and reliable. Aviator and pilot shapes as well as round and multi-sided vintage-inspired glasses provide looks for everyday and multiple face shapes. Above: the soft octagononal model Mole in the Titanium collection, Schiffahrtsstrasse by Coblens. The octagon is a lovely flattering shape which is currently enjoying a resurgence. www.coblens.com
The classic shaping of model Gauloise by Lafont Paris is enriched with artistic colour combinations or fabric effects, which add subtle sparkle and delicate light reflections. Visit www.lafont.com for more details on the new luxurious classic styles in their extensive artisan eyewear collection.
The Berwick is an iconic design in the British-made Savile Row collection. Offering clean lines with its beautiful architectural brow line and rectangular eye shape the frame has a statement elegance which is both alluring and flattering, highlighting the line of the wearer’s natural brow line. Find a selection of classic spectacles, monocles and sunglass clips in their online store at www.savileroweyewear.com
Christian Roth continues to present exceptional pieces of design as a part of Dita Group; deconstructing its own precious archive of frames and re-imagining a new paradigm of style. The oval shape of Round-Wav (available as an ophthalmic or sunglass style) is a common thread in Roth’s collections and is significant now as one of the favourite trending ‘vintage’ inspired looks. Roth’s designs have been worn by a host of celebrities in the last decades including Kate Moss, Lenny Kravitz and Kurt Cobain, who wore the iconic oval Series 6558. For more information: www.christianroth.com
X Terrace annual press preview – for London Hat Week
The annual X Terrace London Hat Week Preview Catwalk Show took place on 16th March at Shangri-La Hotel, at The Shard, showcasing 54 hats made by milliners from around the world.
Milliners were encouraged to use the theme ‘To the future and back‘ as a way to show their vision of the future of their hat designs. Each piece was uniquely inspired by an arrange of ideas such as sci-fi, high tech, environmentally friendly, imagined worlds, and 3D Printers.
Monique Lee Millinery was inspired by Renzo Piano’s striking vertical city “The Shard” and within it, a mystical utopia Shangri-La where people will live isolated from the world happily in the future.
Amina Marie Hood named her hat Mosstro Orbiter which has an eco-futuristic design coexisting in nature and was inspired by the “Fly Eye Dome” designed by R. Buckminster fuller.
The Retro theme allowed milliners to show the glorious eras of the past when hats were the centerpiece of every wardrobe. Many milliners portrayed this theme through vintage fabrics, accessories such as ribbons, feathers and velvet, and by focusing on the elegant shapes and details of the 1920’s-1960’s.
The show at Shangri-La Hotel, at The Shard, featured a selection of hats from the upcoming ‘Great Hat Exhibition’, which is part of the 2020 London Hat Week. The models wore outfits selected and styled by Hector & Karger. Hairstyling was by Toni & Guy (Ilford) and makeup from AOFM Pro. The show included shoes from Stivaleria Cavallin and sculptures from Abigail Ozora Simpson. The show was also generously supported by Maxoo fashion platform, Jack Russell Jeanswear, Yooney Choi, and Katherine Elizabeth Academy, and was staffed by fashion students from Coventry University London. Photos courtesy of @xterrace.
X Terrace have announced the forthcoming launch of The Hat Circle, a website for the millinery industry to empower and connect independent milliners around the world with hat lovers everywhere. https://www.xterrace.com/lhwmilliner
An eyewear boutique setting trends in Krakow, Poland
A new generation of independent optical retailers is appearing in Poland, as young opticians develop a curiosity and passion for specialising in unique brands. In Krakow, Optyk Panski’s owner Pawel Szpytma established a new style of store in 2016, having taken over the family optical business in 2011. In 2019 the boutique which had moved to a location near Kazimierz and Podgorze, an historic, significant part of Krakow was developed with a contemporary architectural interior and a roster of exciting brands, which started with Tavat (from Italy) and AM Eyewear (from Australia).
Eyestylist met Pawel Szpytma in Munich in January, and we asked him what had inspired him to open a shop of this calibre: “I was always curious for something new. I really wanted to step up my knowledge and skills. After visiting international optical fairs and discovering many independent eyewear brands, I realized how much more there is to do. When it came to the design of the shop, the idea was to mix a loft look with modern design details. I wanted to create a place with a luxury touch where you can also feel comfortable and at ease. I did a few of the finishing touches myself – I wanted to have this personal bond with the place.”
Today alongside Tavat and AM, which have become hugely popular with local Krakow customers, the shop stocks Cazal, SALT. Optics, Matsuda, Moscot and Lesca. “I am still gaining knowledge all the time working closely with brands I admire,” says Pawel. “They have taught me a lot about production and materials. Quality always was important to me and always will be.”
Optyk Pański is located at sw. Kingi 8, Krakow Poland. The name of the shop represents a play on words. It means also “your” and “royal, manor” – representing a place where customer can experience a service above the normal level. Optyk Pański has also become known for their after hours openings for customers and events including exhibitions and Whisky tastings.www.optykpanski.pl
Eyestylist had the pleasure of meeting the delightful and enchanting Georgiana Boboc, one of the first pioneers in what we know now as the “social media influencing” industry, a connoisseur of all things fashion – particularly vintage and arguably one of the most genuine, talented and quirky individuals in the business today.
You are strong and confident in pulling off a plethora of colours and patterns in just one outfit – how do you choose what you wear, and why do you think you are drawn to such exuberant, vibrant materials and textiles? Fashion is ridiculous sometimes. It’s so hard to play with colours, I think you need to, or already be super open to wearing a rainbow and still feel comfortable about it and to own it. I’ve never worn something crazy to be the centre of attention – it’s because it puts me in a good mood; colours always do that for me – I was designed to wear them. Vintage is quite colourful actually; patterns, florals, geometrics – that’s why I’m so drawn to it. Most of my statement pieces are very bright.
As Eyestylist is an accessories platform – what do you think the importance of accessories is in regards to your personal style / in the industry generally? Oh my god – EVERYTHING – you can be super basic and just wear a white t-shirt, but as long as you have a sparkle of something; it could be a vintage bag that costs five euros, but it has a nice colour or nice details; brassware or buttons can be the focal point of a look. I have always been about details; matching my socks with the colour of my headband – I used to do crazier things in styling, but now I am a bit more chilled – I’m thirty two years old, I tried to introduce more black into my wardrobe but it’s SO hard.
When did this love-affair with colours and with fashion ignite for you – when did you become involved in the fashion industry? Just after I finished high-school, I lived in Romania so I didn’t have access to a lot of the fashion, but I was passionate about vintage before the craze of American bloggers – I started the Vintage Traffic blog in 2008; I was stuck in traffic, on the way to class – to my degree in Journalism, so it was an outlet to me; it was about women, society, models, the idea of ‘perfection’ and what is demanded of women in general – not just about fashion.
Given Vintage Traffic began as a more general fashion news / societal awareness blog – what is your stance on the drive towards sustainability in the fashion industry? I have noticed one of the biggest agencies in Paris – one that manages and organises the fashion shows for top brands has taken action towards sustainability this Fashion Week; they are reducing the plastic / paper waste of the shows they are running – I think that is amazing. It is essentially the overproduction of useless stuff that is temporary, they don’t mean anything to anyone, and they don’t help much, we are just realising that. I am still receiving envelopes from brands, paper invitations, that is so bad. I am conscious of it; I haven’t bought something new in such a long time – what I wear for Fashion Week, I wear for my daily life. Honestly, I don’t like being the same as everybody else so that’s another reason why I‘m saying NO to fast retailing. I love a Victorian dress with an oversized blazer – mixing antiquity with a flash of modernity, a touch of masculinity with a pinch of femininity, adding something androgynous to it – that’s just my style. If I got married again, I would wear a tuxedo.
Would you be more inclined to purchase from a brand that was higher quality / more expensive but 100% sustainable and ethical? Yes of course if I was going to purchase an investment piece – that would be a contributing factor. I am vintage addicted, so I don’t put a lot of money into new clothes –but I see and understand the need for new sustainable brands, buying, wearing and selling vintage is a passion. It doesn’t pay – that is why you really need to be passionate about it, I never follow trends, but vintage always comes back – for example, I went through a phase some years ago of collecting the fannypack / bumbag… vintage Moschino, Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo etc… I was constantly criticised for wearing them, and now you see all the top brands reintroducing them and they have become a streetwear trend.”
You’re very selective about the new brands you purchase or wear and showcase to your following – we have noticed you wearing ‘Delalle’ eyewear – do you remember what drew you to that brand or what you liked about them? I don’t remember if I discovered the brand in an agency or in a showroom or if they had reached out to me personally from the beginning, but anyway, I just love the designs, they’re so powerful, they are WOW! It’s the eyewear that stands out from the crowd. I couldn’t say no to them, they are so funky and cool.”
As our interview came to a close, we discussed Georgiana’s next potential career moves and future developments across a wide array of industries – cinema, costume design, vintage selling, antiquities and many more – after a difficult year this superwoman has truly come out on top and I look forward to our next interview – who knows in what industry that will be, but I wish her every success in whatever path she chooses to take. Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton in Paris – exclusively for Eyestylist.com – find Delalle sunglasses at www.de-lalle.com
A pledge to show support of independent retailers in the COVID-19 crisis with donation from online sunglass sales
Young Swiss eyewear label Einstoffen is taking immediate action in light of the global health crisis by donating a percentage of their online sunglasses sales back to their long-term optical partners.
Philippe Rieder told Eyestylist: “We have decided to support our customers in these difficult times as much as our strengths allow. From 18th March to 19th April 2020, 50% of the turnover of each pair of sunglasses purchased online will be credited to the opticians in the town where the purchase has been made.”
“We do not want to benefit at the expense of our partners. Our corrective frames will continue to be available only in specialist shops but we hope that this percentage of our online sunglasses sales could at least help alleviate our customers’ losses in some way…”
This spring, the brand has launched its biggest collection yet: ‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ with 40 new styles in titanium, wood acetate and steel. It celebrates independent minds and free spirits with forward-thinking designs, unusual materials and material combinations, with a focus on easy-to-wear design with the occasional ‘surprising twist’.
‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ stays true to the signature Einstoffen style, mixing natural resources with technical materials and easy-fitting shapes. New eye-catching details include very detailed micro-engravings, sprayed titanium, lenses in multiple colours and tiny wooden inserts. Find out more about the collection at www.einstoffen.ch
EINSTOFFEN is a young eyewear and fashion brand founded in 2008 by four friends from Switzerland. Inspired by nature, art, film and music, the brand has since created shirts, glasses, sunglasses, T-shirts and watches for cosmopolitan individualists with a sense of humour. “In our eyes, eyewear and streetwear, nature and urbanity, Swiss quality awareness and a pinch of extravagance go together very well.”
New sustainable series in bio acetate: Earth Bio by TBD
Vintage-inspired designs continue to hold their own: they’re cool, easy-to-wear and nostalgic. Add an element of eco responsibility and the effect – for eyewear – is contemporary and glamorous to boot.
From Italy, and now available to purchase online, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear company (TBD Eyewear) have launched a series of sunglasses in bio acetate, a material with an elegant and smooth style – and attractive translucent “natural-look” colorations. The Earth Bio collection encompasses iconic bestsellers from the main line in the newly adopted material which is produced from cotton and wood pulp.
Previewed at the 97th edition of Pitti Uomo earlier this year, and preserving its dedication to sophisticated style and attention to detail (all the frames are made with a production process carried out entirely in Italy), the line is yet another well-focused edition born out of style connoisseur Fabio Attanasio’s passion for quality, design and menswear with finesse and style. For more information about the Earth Bio collection or to shop online visit www.thebespokedudeseyewear.com/
The eco choices in eyewear continue to widen and neubau eyewear from Austria – one of the young innovative companies focusing on eco-friendly design, has just added to its selection of materials with their own new 100% bio-based ‘natural3D’. A special edition sunglasses collection has been released to show off the fresh relaxed styling and fresh Spring-infused colours available, with 3 models – Romy (above on model), Maurice and Alain.
What is ‘natural3D’? The all-new material, natural3D by neubau eyewear, is created via an innovative and sustainable production process. The surface is skin-friendly with smooth sealed edges and vibrant colour intensity which will not fade. The material is formed using the oil extracted from the castor oil plant’s seeds. The resulting powder derived during this extraction is merged together layer by layer by a laser during 3D printing and any excess material is then reused for additional frames (ensuring zero waste).
neubau eyewear has also launched four new optical styles in the new eco-friendly material, available from April 2020. The frames are named after environmental activists. For mode details visit www.neubau-eyewear.com
French Designer Jean-François Rey is a 1980s enthusiast and reminisces with fondness about those years when he first made a name for himself as a creative designer of sunglasses and specs. Today, his eponymous line includes the 1985 collection – highlighting emblematic revisited classics of this significant decade in fashion as well as some creative styles that point to this particular passion and influence.
The most recent addition is the Limited Edition JF2910SL – a concept frame with an inventive design inspired by tennis wear of the 80s, and more specifically the sport’s retro visor cap.
This metal model offers a round retro eye shape with a top bar which wraps around the front. The “peaked structure” appears to rest on this bar shading the eyes with a layered solid and textured construction.
The style is available in raw urban tones of ruthenium, black or khaki finely highlighted by hand in electric tones which add to the innovative sporty design. A range of related designs include an optical version – JF2910SL – (pictured above) and the minimal JF29120016. For more information: www.jfrey.fr
‘The lens cleaning cloth re-imagined as a canvas for creative action’
l.a. Eyeworks – whose long-term commitment to the art world has evolved through many years via an exciting legacy of collaborations with visual innovators – artists, illustrators, graphic designers and photographers – has a fresh line-up of art inspiration coming our way shortly. The brand has commissioned Los Angeles-based artists Liz Young and Julian Hoeber, and designer Gere Kavanaugh, an AIGA Medalist to create new designs for their cleaning cloths accompanying all their Spring 2020 eyewear and sunglass styles.
Above: the design by Gere Kavanaugh, a prolific voice in the history of American design, Gere Kavanaugh’s pioneering spirit and talents have touched almost every aspect of the discipline. A unifying thread throughout Kavanaugh’s work is the designer’s passion for colour (“I could eat colour”), bountifully represented in this explosive, fractal composition.
Julian Hoeber’s artwork for the iconic eyewear label explores the mysterious territory between oppositions – organic and inorganic, conceptual and experiential – as a way to illustrate the workings of the human mind. Hoeber’s sampler of eyes is described as “representing a journey from a literal self-portrait along a path of historical and pop culture references to an almost complete (and yet recognizable) abstraction”.
Working in diverse media, often with labor-intensive methods, artist Liz Young focuses on themes that evoke the beauty, fragility, and inevitable decay of nature and the human body. Perhaps metaphorically referencing the American West, Young’s photograph of a horse’s eye captures a moment of stillness, a poetic pause between vitality and decline. Find out more about l.a. Eyeworks at www.laeyeworks.com
Big, colourful and bright! Essedue’s acetate sunglasses for Spring/Summer are for those who love statement design and Italian finesse with quality UV protection. Model 360 has a wide enveloping square-ish shape and a sculpted ‘bevelled’ effect on the front, a charming detail which highlights the artisan skill. www.esseduesunglasses.com/en/product/woman-cateye-sunglasses-mod-360/
The natural landscapes of California and the colours and textures of endorheic basins of the world have inspired a new mood and colour palette in the C1-20 collection of eyewear.
Inspired by effortless beauty, and the natural formations and colours of endorheic basins – the characteristic of which is usually a saline lake or salt flats, the new releases at SALT. bring together two key characteristics, stylish design with a high-class, lasting finish. The collection, which includes new optical and sunglass shapes, is made in Japan, where producers create the frames according to time-old traditions.
Above: the Hillier sunglasses by SALT. Optics are named after the lake in Middle Island, Archipelago of the Recherche, Western Australia – a classically chic oval shape fitted with polarized CR39 gradient lens – available at https://saltoptics.com/products/hillier-tt
The smallest details, right down to the pins visible at either side of the front of the frames are distinctive in their quality and finish set flush into the surface of the acetate. Alongside classic tones of black and indigo blue, hues inspired by the colorations of salt flats and lakes include taupe, smoke grey, whiskey and woodgrain.
Model Fuller – available in tones which include black, smoke grey, tortoise grey and woodgrain – is one of the classic 1960s infused shapes in the collection, created in multiple sizes for a wide variety of faces. The thin clean lines of the silhouette – which has a delicate key hole bridge – define the signature timeless aesthetic of SALT. VIew model Fuller at: https://saltoptics.com/products/fuller-50-rx-tg
SALT. Optics optical and sunglass collections are designed in California and made in Japan. The models in Collection 1 2020 are available through selected optical retailers and online at www.saltoptics.com. CN
Collection 2020: re-edition of ‘favourite styles’ with elegant contemporary finish – a celebration of the sustainable label’s 10th Anniversary
One of eyewear’s innovative ‘treasures’, creative, pioneering, and committed to excellence in design, EOE Eyewear is celebrating 10 years in the optics business with inspirations in art and beautiful, wearable signature eyewear collectibles. Among the re-edition frames, each one updated with special nuances and nature inspired hues, are models Burträsk and Abisko – created in two special editions.
The EOE Eyewear brand started in 2010 when Erik and Emilia Lindmark were taking a snowmobile ride outside the small village of Ammarnas in northern Sweden. The white and softly rolling landscape gave birth to the idea of an eyewear brand that would combine inspiration from the barren nature of Lapland with the fastidious elegance so significant for Scandinavian design.
To mark the special Anniversary, EOE Eyewear has also been developing a special artistic collaboration. Finnish artist, Linda Linko has worked to translate some of the most evocative places and materials of their homeland which have inspired the EOE co-founders Erik and Emilia Lindmark throughout their first 10 years. Her work (above) will appear in packaging and cleaning cloths in 2020.
Burträsk is the cool cateye of the EOE Eyewear “family.” Inspired by Emilia’s grandpa, this dramatic feminine statement frame is now reissued in a new material, made entirely from waste products from inside the EOE Eyewear factory.
The light modified cat’s eye shape of the second Burträsk edition is a wonderfully creative interpretation of this dramatic shape, with a lightness achieved through the open sections above the lenses and the narrow semi-rimless structure of the smooth metal which frames the top rim.
Model Abisko is named after a village located north of the Arctic Circle, a place known for spectacular views of the aurora borealis. The newly updated aviator shape has a very fine chic profile and highlights the U-shape of the Lapponian Gate, a striking element of the local landscape. Produced in a wonderful trendy green tinted titanium, the new edition also has a graduated tinted lens, inspired by the colours of the Northern Lights.
Meanwhile the Abisko Round takes the concept further in an oval eye shape with a uniquely feminine yet minimal design. Inspiration for the subtle delicacy of the light pink-purple lens tone comes from the early morning hues of Lapland’s crisp winter skies.
“All of our frames are sustainably produced and fully recyclable and bio-degradable. EOE of today is considered a pioneer in sustainability. In 2019, we broke new ground when launching REGRIND, a concept which made us the first player in the global eyewear industry to produce new frames made from old ones.” – Emilia Lindmark, EOE Eyewear
If there’s one thing Lafont always carries off with elegance, it’s their refreshingly creative blending of colours and patterns. Part of the new Spring eyewear collection, the bold classical rectangular shaping of model Gala takes on a whole new vibrancy of character in wonderful mixes of translucent light tinted crystal, patterned and deep hued voluminous acetates, each one bringing a statement style all of its own. Above: model Gala (7115) pictured in a delicate purple with pastel tones of blue and grey.
The patterned materials, much like refined couture fabrics with complex, highly worked details, are matched with precision and expertise – surprising combinations rooted in vintage inspirations, are revitalised and refreshed with exquisite quality and modern flair in signature effects inspired by natural feathers and animal prints.
Lafont Paris frames are produced exclusively in France and are registered with the “French Origin Guarantee” certification to uphold quality, transparency and traceability of all their unique products. For more information about the new collection 2020, visit www.lafont.com
The Iceland Collection by Oscar Mamooi: seven outstanding new frames with a bold design, original combination of materials and ‘gleaming’ textures which replicate the beauty of ice – each frame is named after a track by Bjork as a homage to the singer.
Irregular shapes, conceived as a reflection of the connection between man and nature characterise new eyewear work by Italian designer Oscar Mamooi – launched this month. The frames replicate the unexpected, unpredictable forms, structures and jagged edges of icebergs and glaciers, contrasted with the smoothness and tactile experience of pieces of ice. Above: model Unison in the Iceland collection
The designer has explored advanced technologies and techniques such as hot pressing, creating ad hoc moulds for every single part of the frame. “These parts are then compressed to create the acetate, giving life to surprising volume effects,” says Mamooi.
Oscar Mamooi is a multi-talented designer/stylist and illustrator. His love for eyewear dates back several years; in 2014 he designed the Celebration Collection, a tribute to Italian journalist and fashionista Anna Piaggi. See the Iceland Collection at www.oscarmamooi.com
British independent label Kirk & Kirk continues to inspire a desire for bright statement colour in eyewear. Co-founder Karen Kirk says push your boundaries, and try something new, you might fall in love!
Using acrylic for frames in its Centena line, Kirk & Kirk can create its own palette of colours. What was your inspiration for the 2020 tones? Do you base the choices on what was selling well or is there more to it?
Acrylic transmits light beautifully, and I will always choose colours that work best with our material. It isn’t really a fashion thing. It’s about people, and the way you feel when you wear the frame. As we have full control over the manufacturing process, we have freedom to create our own subtleties and transparencies in colour; this is a huge advantage, as generally eyewear companies choose from pre-designed sheets from the two main manufacturers.
What is the difference in wearing a bright matt and a bright shiny frame for the wearer (if any)? Can you offer any guidelines on what tends to suit who? Generally speaking a matt material will sit on the same plane as your skin; shinier materials will have a three dimensional quality. For me, the level of transparency and colour plays a larger part. I would recommend trying different colours on your face as the best way to really tell. Many of our bright colours look amazing on dark skin tones as well as pale complexions. Pale skin can look incredible with a vibrant shade and a dramatic lip tone.
Pink was a hot colour for Kirk & Kirk in 2019. Would you agree and what advice can you give on choosing a pink frame? Yes, and it will continue to be, we have included this colour in new collections coming up! There seems to be an emotional connection to pink, it’s warm, sexy, fun and friendly.
People’s hearts seem to leap for joy (I am not exaggerating here) when they see this colour and it is usually love at first sight. When you choose a pink frame you need to own it, go with it and don’t be afraid to contrast with it. If you’re going hot, don’t be afraid of mixing with a clashing red, it can look amazing.
Colours in eyewear have generally been hotting up over the last years, but there can be worries or inhibitions over wearing really bold tones in the work place. What would you say to anyone who is a bit nervous about being bold with their colour choice? We hear this a lot, but once you start trying on colour, it is very hard to go back to that pair you were hiding behind before. Once you see the change in the way people react to you, there is usually no holding back.
Kirk & Kirk have just launched the new matt styles in the Centena Collection. They have also released 3 new styles in the Kaleidoscope Collection this week – a cat eye called Michelle, the oversized + angular Penelope, and a beautiful more minimal and understated two-tone Jane frame. For more information visit www.kirkandkirk.com or view the newly released presentation of the new models for SS20 by Jason Kirk on YouTube at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X69vaOmrCnY