Joe Doucet: face shield as fashion piece

With the expected long-term need for personal face protection in our daily lives against Covid-19 post lockdown, designer Joe Doucet has created a face shield with integrated sunglass lenses and arms – the first of its kind. The studio is currently seeking a brand or eyewear manufacturing partner to produce the unique futuristic design in a collaborative project.

Studies have shown that face shields or visors are much more effective than surgical style face masks, but in their current basic format they are uncomfortable and awkward. Doucet’s design aims to make wearing face protection “more practical and less alien and intrusive on the wearer”, integrating a fashion-forward ‘futuristic’ look more akin to trends in contemporary apparel and fashion in general. The design proposed with polycarbonate shield integrates an anti-fog coating to ensure clear vision when in use.

A face shield you would want to wear? An exclusive design by Joe Doucet

The design studio hopes that by improving the basic face shield design to a level that creates desirability in the product as an easy-to-wear fashion accessory aligned with sunwear, greater uptake for personal protection can be further encouraged in the weeks and months once lockdown is eased.

Based in New York, Joe Doucet is an award-winning designer, entrepreneur and inventor. After graduating from the Art Center College of Design, Doucet began exporting his vision into product, furniture, environment, and technology to find solutions for daily and societal challenges through design. His work deftly hybridizes function and visual appeal while conveying layers of meaning and message. Doucet believes that design and, more importantly, a designer’s thought process can play a larger role in innovation and problem solving, as well as aesthetics. He currently holds numerous patents for his designs and inventions. Find our more about his work at www.joedoucet.com Photography supplied by kind permission of Joe Doucet. – CN

Anna-Karin Karlsson ‘for a life less ordinary’

Haute couture eyewear with an avant-garde design

Putting a maximalist style at the heart of her work, eyewear designer Anna-Karin Karlsson has created a world of eyewear apart from the everyday. Decoration such as carved flowers, exotic wildlife and fantastical bugs and ‘claws’ have featured as embellishments for fronts, temples and bridges in works that highlight extravagant materials (24k gold, white gold and titanium) and immaculate execution.

This season, the collection unfolds with new dramatic sun entries, ‘Shady Luv’ and ‘Too Handsome’ defined by sophisticated forms with minute engraving work and jewellery settings. In 100% Japanese titanium, Shady Luv is hand-set with Swarovski crystals. Each colorway is available in just 100 limited edition pieces. The style is a reminder of the oversized mask shapes of the 00s with single visor lens. Above: Shady Luv, pictured in white gold with Zeiss mirrored lens.

Too Handsome by Anna-Karin Karlsson
Style “Too Handsome” combines Japanese acetate and titanium with attention to metal detailing and the engraving of AKK lettering. Another Limited edition entry, each colour of this design is produced in less than 50 pieces.
Anna-Karin Karlsson eyewear is available in luxury retail outlets around the world and online at https://annakarinkarlsson.com/shop/sunglasses/

Aviators: a directional design style

Aviator sunglasses continue to earn their iconic status. They lift and compliment most outfits with extraordinary versatility, a style staple through seasons and activities, from beach to business. The original teardrop silhouette is adaptable for many face shapes – just as much for women as men; it’s recommended if you have an oval, heart or square shaped face, but for the most part, with so many versions and sizes, there’s one for us all.

Independent eyewear labels are exploring the lightweight qualities of the design whilst make subtle changes to aesthetic details, eye shapes, lens colours or technical features to bring the styles a new-found directional elegance.

Above: Berlin-based designer Veronika Wildgruber’s new collection is inspired by geometry, the future and architecture. The Kent frame in the Interspace collection explores a completely new shaping of the lower section of the double bridge. Photo by @kerstinzupan. For more details about designer Veronika Wildgruger visit www.eyewear.veronikawildgruber.com

LINDBERG 8209: modern minimal lines + traditional teardrop lens shape

The LINDBERG 8209 is part of the Air Titanium line with full-rim made entirely of ultralight titanium wire. The frame is vintage inspired and timeless yet fully on trend with a choice of colourful Zeiss sun lenses, ranging from traditional to bold and bright. www.LINDBERG.com

Delon by Gotti Switzerland – an ophthalmic shape, adapted from the classic aviator

Gotti Switzerland’s new entries for Summer include the very finely structured model Delon, a large shape for men, with a slightly angled rim below the top bridge line. The minimal design is achievable through the expert application of ultralight Japanese titanium. www.gotti.ch

Oversized sunglasses

We have a soft spot for oversized sunglasses, particularly the round ones and the styles that Jackie O’ made her own. The shape is here again – of course it is! – worn in a variety of ways, by all ages, with quirky individuality or classic poise, a celebration of timelessness and characterful ‘iconic’ style. Above: huge round, idiosyncratic and ageless – vintage-infused sunglasses with pale lenses – shielding the face while the eyes are still visible. Photo by Gennaro D’Elia (Paris Fashion Week) exclusively for Eyestylist.com

For a dazzling Jackie O’ design: Oliver Goldsmith: The 1960s – 001

From Oliver Goldsmith’s wonderful series of iconic designs (there are several Jackie O’ styles here, depending on your face shape), the bold 001 is produced in classic acetate materials in perfectly chic colorations which include black leopard, military white or black powder (above). The frame, which is ideal for an average width face, is available to purchase online at www.olivergoldsmith.com

Jackie-inspired: Christian Roth’s glamorous ‘Jackie 60’ – UV protection + classic styling

For a statement tortoise model, Christian Roth revives the look in the graceful model Jackie 60, one of a line of distinctive designs in the iconic collection, combining the styling so popular with the former first lady and the exacting contemporary finish of a technically robust Japanese made frame. Find out more at https://christianroth.com

Conversations in lockdown: James Van Vossel

Thinking differently is what puts James Van Vossel apart in the field of eyewear. His work with Belgian label theo began in 2010, and has continued to flourish, alongside an ever expanding portfolio of innovative design products through very different disciplines. Most recently his work has included ‘Hollow’ for Modular Lighting Instruments (www.supermodular.com) and through the current lockdown – when not looking after the kids, he is working on ceramics, lighting concepts and tableware, from a studio style space in his workspace connected to his home.

Hollow by Modular Lighting Instruments: winner of an iF Design Award in 2020

From the theo collaboration, Van Vossel tells me how his work with eyewear continues to grow – always approaching the object “from a different angle”. He refers to one of the most distinctive enduring frames in his repertoire so far – James 6 (launched in 2012), a design which has an integrated ‘folded’ section which forms the nose piece of the design. From the front, the frame appears to have a missing piece. It’s a style that lives on in the theo collections, a reminder of the possibilities of bucking the trend, exploring alternatives, with an experimental ‘hands on’ process using moulds, modelling from life, far removed from what is more normal in eyewear production.

James 6 – first launched in 2012 by theo, worn by Wim, and still an eye-catcher in the collection

In Outlines, the line launched in 2018, James developed a concept based on prototypes crafted to scale – a mode of working that he prefers across disciplines where no predetermined outcome has been laid down. He produced a number of frame design studies in prototypes, giving a sense of the design and material and allowing him to see what works and what doesn’t.

Outlines for theo Sketch – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

“In the outline collection the radical and revolutionary step of starting with the shape of the lens was taken, allowing it to determine the further design of the glasses by extending the existing vocabulary of the lenses and allows them to continue into the frame”, he explains.

Outlines for theo Assembly – black and fluo pink

“In a natural way, the frame is then shaped and moulded around it as an outline, as a shadow image around the essence – the glass; thus creating an original tension between the frame and the shadow image.”

Current colorations in the Outlines collection at theo include signature brights, in combinations of black/fluo pink or the more demure black on black.

For more details about all James Van Vossel’s design work visit www.jamesvanvossel.com
For the eyewear collections, visit www.theo.be

Accessory love: Diffuser Tokyo – Japan

The Japanese brand continues to lead the way in the production of stylish leather glasses accessories and related design pieces

Japanese accessories experts – Diffuser Tokyo – add to their collections for the coming  season with new leather cases and cords for men. The Diffuser range now includes two-tone stitched leather cords which come in khaki and yellow, orange with bronze and red with dark brown with carefully finished metal details with a ‘tarnished’ like vintage effect.

High-quality hand-finished ccessories from Japan: Diffuser Tokyo

The brand has also introduced a natural leather book mark, and the Horween leather eyewear case inspired by traditional natural leather spectacles cases with an envelope style lid, fastened with a popper. Diffuser Tokyo is now stocked worldwide in luxury optical boutiques. Find their products at high level optical stores and concept stores including Bromptons Opticians (UK), Lunettes Selection (Berlin), and Selima Optique SOHO (NYC). To purchase online visit https://diffuser-tokyo.com

Clelland & Co., Montrose, Scotland

A design-focused independent eyewear boutique, north of Dundee

“We do things differently here,” says Gary Clelland in his Instagram profile @clelland_and_co. The pictures posted on the account show just how far the store has come in a short space of time. Clelland bought the optical shop in February 2018 completely transforming it from a tired, old-fashioned traditional shop with run-of-the-mill frames into a treasure trove of modern independent eyewear, sourced from around the world. Above: a 1950s wood haberdashery cabinet – repurposed for storing the eyewear, takes pride of place in the shop

Retro style at Clelland and Co. – interior design by Pamela Taylor from Aberdeen

“I went to Silmo for the first time in 2017,” Gary Clelland told Eyestylist, “and I was blown away by the variety and quality of niche eyewear available, I knew then I had to bring some of that to Montrose.” In 2019, Clelland introduced Gotti Switzerland and SALT. Optics to the store and began a process of transformation which culminated in a wonderful redesign with the assistance of the stylist Pamela Taylor (@Pam_picks) from Aberdeen.

“For the interior, I didn’t want the shop to look like every other optician’s. Scotland is awash with ‘normal’ optical shops, and not many practices are brave enough to create a different experience for their customers.” The work on the refit was completed in February 2020, and by that time, more new collections had been selected for the store, including theo, Anne & Valentin and Lowercase, following buying trips to Opti Munich and 100% in London.

Interior details at Clelland & Co

“Fast forward 2 years from the beginning and we are now selling far more stylish eyewear with much better lenses,” says Gary. “Our retail environment has been completely transformed with a view to improving the customer experience. From lighting, to paint colours, to the materials used on the seating, it has all been done to help the customer feel relaxed and at home. We now work with far less suppliers but have more depth in each collection. I am now confident that we can bring our clients a fantastic selection from some of the best eyewear manufacturers from around the globe. Anyway why not, we think our customers deserve it!”

Clelland & Co is offering a unique selection of over 450 frames including Rolf Spectacles (Austria), Anne & Valentin (France), Bruno Chaussignand (France), Gotti (Switzerland), la eyeworks (LA), Lowercase (NYC), THEO (Antwerp) and SALT. Optics (California). For more information visit www.clellandandco.com

Clelland & Co., 153 High Street, Montrose, Angus

Street art inspired: JF1494 by JF Rey

Designer Jean-François Rey plays with colour in acetate in the new JF1494 Urban Collage design. Inspired by the eye-catching tonal palette and details of famous street art in his home city of Marseille and the vibrant bohemian quarter of Cours Julien, Rey applies spectacular acetate materials with mixes of tones and patterns in designs which are literally bursting with personality and French-infused style.

Cours Julien, Marseille – colorful street art is a feature of this quarter

The designs (of which there are 12 in the Urban Collage collection) focus on the careful selection of the materials, the asymmetrical and diagonal lamination techniques – unique signature elements in the range – and the fun and fanciful mix of colours. Various tortoiseshell shades in graphic combinations and contrasting styles add an assertive, distinctive look to the final designs. For more information visit www.jfrey.fr

Tasoni welcomes Lapima SS20 collection

In an exclusive brand partnership the luxury Tasoni boutiques (Zurich, Switzerland) are releasing three glamorous Lapima sun models with a chic collab “Lapima + Tasoni” logo, discreetly appearing on the inside of the temple. The Brazilian SS2020 sunglasses collection (including models Teresa, Andrea and Joca) is the latest addition at the much-admired Swiss fashion stores which specialise in luxury brands and emerging designers for men and women, curated by sisters Taya and Tary Sawiris – and sourced across the globe. Above: SS2020 Lapima: the model wears model Teresa in mint. The frame has a bold square shape, inspired by 1960s retro sunglasses.

Lapima model Andrea, a co-created version with Tasoni – Mazzucchelli acetate, German OBE hinges in titanium, sun lenses by Essilor

The Andrea, a statement frame in the release, is a unisex piece inspired by scuba goggles, with the distinctive oversized shape based on the aviator. The colours of the shades are inspired by the ocean, ranging from delicate tones of mint, one of our favourite tones of the summer collections, and caramel alongside bold cherry and dark olive green (see Andrea above).

About the brand – Launched by Gisela and Gustavo Assis in 2016, Lapima is based on Brazilian design, with geometric lines that play with light and shadow in frames produced principally in Italian acetate. With backgrounds in dance and sport, the founders are both inspired by movement and aesthetic rigour, which set the path for creating the essence of a novel artisan sunglasses collection. The label is based on and continues to expand through constant experimentation, and proposes pieces which “frame the face” while still evoking a sharp image, filled with contemporary attitude. All Lapima frames are manufactured by artisans in São Paulo, Brazil.

Lapima sunglasses are available at Tasoni, St. Peterstrasse 1, 8001 Zurich (Switzerland) and branches including The Chedi Andermatt. For more information visit www.tasoni.com and www.lapima.com

 

 

Fassamano: award-winning readers

Cristiana Vannini describes her glasses concept as ‘micro architecture for the face’. The designer and art director of Fassamaneria srl – the company which owns the Milan-based reading glasses brand – has created a unique style of fast reader, worn on a chain or leather cord, specifically for instant tasks such as reading menus or text messages, with a luxurious artisan design – borne out of the Venetian craft tradition.

Fassamano: a charming, stylish reading accessory, worn around the neck

Created in hand polished Mazzucchelli 1849 acetate, with metal parts in  laser-cut German silver, the product combines a beautifully-finished jewellery style with a practical, lightweight – yet sturdy – construction. A choice of 9 colours – including a delicate blue (Capri) and delightful spotted green havana – with variations for men and women, are available with lens strengths of +1 to +3.5 dioptres. Photochromic sun lenses have also been added to the range.

Fassamano X Laura B: a collaborative design with Laura B, featuring gold and silver plated chains

Elegant chains, charms and brooches with cabochons are available to transform the basic design, for those who wish to wear the design as an artistic piece of luxury jewellery. These chic distinctive details come to life in the sophisticated capsule collections by the talented jewellery designers Sharra Pagano and Laura B.

Fassamano was the winner of the Golden A’ Design Award and Competition 2019 in the ‘Jewellery, Eyewear and Watch Design category’, a well-known award which recognises qualities such as innovation and sustainability alongside design excellence. For more information on Fassamano readers and accessories and for the online store visit www.fassamano.com

From lockdown, Nina Mûr launch design project

#THEGOODQUARANTINE Collection by @nina_mur_eyewearSpanish label is producing its next edition in virtual collaboration with opticians through the lockdown

Nina Mûr founders Lorena Serrano and Davide Fichera have launched a sustainable design project during the coronavirus quarantine – out of their home in Madrid – to share the creation of their next edition of eyewear with opticians. Their aim is to produce something both creative and unique at this unprecedented time through virtual connection with friends and optical partners.

The design duo plans to create five unique collaborative styles in the Quarantine collection – underlining the sustainable concept and production typical of the Nina Mûr brand while bringing together a community of like-minded people to create a human connection and shared ‘creative’ experience beyond the isolation and lonely existence of lockdown. Above: Lorena working from home on lockdown in Madrid (April 2020) – pictured with son Luca

“We will create these glasses with our usual sustainable materials, principally wood, and our usual local production in Madrid,” explains Serrano. “We have asked friends and optician contacts taking part to provide a drawing or a photo of a drawing as a starting point. We have people working on this project around the world, in Japan, France, Italy and the USA. Once the designs are in they will then vote themselves on their favourite designs – we propose to create the most ‘popular’ five styles through this process, once the voting is completed the week after next.”

#TheGoodQuarantine Collection by @nina_mur_eyewear + @nina_more_eyewear with be available for purchase in May 2020. Watch this space to see the collection soon! For more information visit www.ninamur.com

 

Gogosha Optique, Echo Park, Los Angeles

Julia Gogosha’s Echo Park flagship is just 2 years old. She describes it with a twinkle in her eye. “A Tetris cathedral artspace playground is how I imagined it…with different sources of inspiration, including artists, sculptors and works of art for which I am passionate.”

A minimal colour palette, injected with saturated tones of lilac, coral and mint, contributes to a bold deliberately architectural interior with the wow factor, designed with precision to house one of the most carefully curated selections of eyewear by internationally acclaimed independent designers. A variety of sunglass frames are displayed, intentionally visible, demonstrating their colour, shape and character and inviting customers to view them like works of art, and try them on. While the optical frames are housed in custom flat file/bleacher seating hybrid sculptural furniture cladded in speckled playground rubber. The space has been designed to include a state-of-the-art in-house workshop. Above: Julia Gogosha, Gogosha Optique – photo by Stephen Schauer

Interior sunglasses display: Gogosha Optique (photograph by Stephen Schauer)

Curated with “the best of each category”, the boutique offers a mix of design-focused core collections such as theo and Anne & Valentin, and design brands offering a variation of price points including Kaleos from Barcelona. Two internationally successful homegrown collections – Ahlem and JacquesMarieMage – are represented alongside some of the most avantgarde designers of the moment, Rigards from Hong Kong, Masahiro Marayuma from Japan and Kuboraum from Berlin. Julia is also innovative in collaborations and events with designers and labels bringing where she can a fresh slant to how she presents them to her customers. Launching for Spring, she has a new project underway with Dom Vetro, an LA label specializing in made-to-order and fully customizable frames – and more collaborative concepts are coming soon.

Gogosha Optique (photograph by Stephen Schauer)

For the current unprecedented situation, as the Coronavirus crisis affects businesses globally, we also talked about what this has entailed so far. In March, Gogosha was open for daily emergencies with one member of staff available in store to fulfil orders and attend to immediate needs such as repairs. The entire Gogosha team have also been providing virtual fittings during the lockdown from home. “We’ve been doing distance fitting appointments intuitively for years, mainly for longstanding clients who might have moved out of the area,” says Julia. “We will continue to adapt and streamline our services to deliver glasses right to the customer’s door. We consider vision essential and will continue to creatively pivot to best service our clients’ vision needs virtually and with a greater appreciation and greater focus on connection and conversation in a time of separation for the safety of humanity.”

Gogosha Optique, Echo Park was designed by John Chen of Formation Association. Gogosha first opened in 2008 in the former location of Silver Lake, east of Hollywood. Gogosha Optique is the winner of the Vision Expo Third Annual OPTImum Retail Award announced in April 2020. For previous articles on Gogosha on Eyestylist visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2017/05/gogosha-pop-2-0/ and https://www.eyestylist.com/2013/10/gogoshagoldsmith-shop-in-shop/

1555 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026 – www.gogosha.com

 

RockOptika: classic with a twist

British design label RockOptika takes the classic forms of vintage eyewear and re-creates them with the same finesse and style of yesteryear with a delicate slant on colour and sizing for the modern spectacle wearer. Designed in the UK and produced in a small artisan factory in the Jura, the collection is featured in a new photographic series by brand owner and photographer Tom Herrington who shoots his frames on friends and family (above, Philly wears model Sinistre).

Sinistre in Crystal

Model Sinistre, one of the signature pieces in the line, is available in several colorways including crystal, black Havana and Greengage Crumble. The art deco styling with key hole bridge was inspired by a 1930’s children’s spectacle found at a brocante in Lalinde, South West France. For more information and to find the frames from this unique British label visit www.rockoptika.com

Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses

Claire Goldsmith on her family legacy

Since 1926, fans of the Oliver Goldsmith label have been drawn to the pure heritage style and signature design flair of this British brand which continues under the direction of Claire Goldsmith, the great granddaughter of the founder. Claire took the business under her wing in 2005, leaving a steady regular job to reignite the tremendous legacy and style of her family’s historic company.

In a new video, Claire talks about the origins of the business, the release of Oliver Goldsmith “sunspecs” at Fortnum & Mason in Picadilly in London in the late 1930s, and the appearance of OG in Vogue in 1942 – the first acknowledgment by a fashion magazine of the potential of spectacles as a statement style accessory.

Above: The iconic OG style Yatton – first created in London in 1964 – has been re-released in the gorgeous colour combination described as White Christmas Maze. The soft geometric shaping of the design provides the iconic dramatic glamour typical of the Oliver Goldsmith label. https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/yatton/

The video (above) – ‘An introduction to Oliver Goldsmith by Claire Goldsmith’ – includes rare footage and imagery of early OG designs, and the most famous people who have worn the glasses through the last decades…personalities who include musicians, actors, actresses and members of the royal family whose eyewear was a natural enhancement to their style and personality.

Decades: The 1930’s: small sunglasses

Today, the Spring season brings new colourful releases to the iconic OG collection which preserves its history and artisan quality, in designs reignited through the label’s extensive and carefully preserved archives – and the intricate skill and technological benefits of modern eyewear crafting. In the Decades collection, this thick rimmed round sunglass style pays homage to the 1930s, and the Hollywood stars of the era. The frame is handmade in Japan from acetate and comes with 2-base flat 100% UVA/UVB lenses with backside AR coating.

Icons Manhattan 1960 – as worn by Audrey Hepburn

One of the most famous styles in the Oliver Goldsmith repertoire, the Manhattan sunglasses – represent classical statement style with the perfect timeless balance of shape and colour. As well as the iconic dark and light tortoise versions, the Manhattan sunglasses are made in contemporary tones of mocha or the delightful ‘rain’ colour – a delicately mottled blue/black finish. Find out more about the iconic specs and sunglass styles by Oliver Goldsmith and visit the online store at www.olivergoldsmith.com