A collective initiative by some of the most prominent designers in eyewear in the US brings together some favourite and iconic optical frames in a look book celebrating materials, colours, and imaginative shapes. The edition is a reminder that while public health concerns necessitate the masking of the face, the eyes are now ‘the centrepiece of communication and beauty’.
The project is the work of edCFDA, a group of independent eyewear designers within the CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America), and has resulted in a showcase of memorable, individualistic styles from their current collections an expression of creativity, craftsmanship and fashion flair in eyewear design – from LA, Miami, and NYC.
Participating designers and their brand namesakes include: Ahlem Manai-Platt (Ahlem), Barbara McReynolds & Gai Gherardi (l.a.Eyeworks), Blake Kuwahara (Blake Kuwahara), Christian Roth & Eric Domège (Christian Roth), Jeff Press (Morgenthal Frederics – Robert Marc), Patty Perreira (Barton Perreira), Selima Salaun (Selima) and Shane Baum (Leisure Society).
The initiative also offers a timely reminder on the importance of eyewear care and suggests more regular and thorough cleaning of frames by wearers during the Covid-19 epidemic. It highlights the professionalism of fine independent opticians in approaching the creative styling of fashion eyewear with an elevated sensibility about hygiene and client safety at this time when stores have reopened with new protocols such as social distancing and greater availability of private appointments and contact-free consultations. Find out more: https://cfda.com/news/view-the-edcfda-digital-lookbook
The Architecture Collection in M49 bio acetate – afirst collection from Good’s in Naples (Italy)
A fascinating appreciation of art history and references to architecture have had a consistent influence in the making of a first collection at GOOD’S, where contemporary taste, culture and a refined and researched artisan style play a part in forming something new, quality-driven and intriguing with a design style that combines vintage-infused looks with eco-friendly materials comfortably – and with auspicious know-how. This first line features seven models in six different colours, each one inspired by Neopolitan architecture and architects, after whom they are named.
Model Alisio – inspired by Giancarlo Alisio (1930-2005) – is a tribute to the eminent university professor of the History of Architecture in Naples. Other models are the result of detailed studies of Napoli’s rich architecture and specific buildings which include the Baroque church and monastery San Gergorio Armeno, the church of Gesu Nuovo and the landmark Certosa di San Martino on the Vomero Hill.
This small creative Italian label is led by Piero Buono (Co-Founder), Walter Engle (digital director) and Francesco Maria Stazio (architect and creative director). A second line – the Book Collection, is already in the pipeline and will launch in September 2020. Find out more: www.goodseyewear.it By Clodagh Norton
305 familes producing hope, bags, hats, and pompoms in Brazil, Peru and Ecuador
This week our Friday spot is dedicated to Nannacay, a trusted sustainable accessories label – by business woman turned creative entrepreneur, Marcia Kemp. With a passion for travel, fashion, and community work, Kemp’s idea for the brand was to create a social fashion project, with benefit to communities in Latin America through their unique craftwork and artisan skill. The brand goes as far as providing orientation and training to the craftsmen and women who work on the styles.
Kemp collaborates with the communities to create a fashion line that is brightly colored and bold, handmade with a modern style that has become well-known in international fashion circles.
“Nannacay was awarded the Eco-Age Brandmark in recognition of strategically enhancing the lives of those involved in the creation of its products. Nannacay aims to preserve culture and improve its communities’ lives through fair trade.”
Above: Aura S/S 20 collection:Brigit Bag
With carefully selected sustainable materials such as wool, cotton, and recycled textiles, the handmade designs in the collection including this season’s Aura series, also feature exceptional designs using macrame and crochet derived from communities in Brazil. The label also continues to research new possibilities for the introduction of pieces featuring recycled materials.
Nannacay – meaning ” sisterhood of women” in the Peruvian indigenous language Quechua – is a fashion brand born to transform peoples lives through the making of unique accessories; the bag designs have far-reaching appeal for their balance of style and simplicity, with handmade details that are playful and tasteful, always with a gentle nod to the tribal patterns and time honored crafts from where they are born. Find more designs athttps://nannacay.com
From high-tech sun-clips, combination designs (Polyamide fronts with titanium sides are popular) through to new collections by a healthy number of different types of company, the 3D printed eyewear choices are clearly pleasing wearers. The key properties of lightness and comfort alongside a growing variety of design options point to ongoing growth in this field where evolving design styles and more individualistic looks are now more readily available.
Above: Launched this month : Gotti Switzerland’s refined new sun clip (designed for models DAGO / DALE) – in titanium and 3D printed polyamide, offered in 12 colours and 4 different lens tints – www.gotti.ch
Modo’s 3D Lab collection, announced in June 2020, is the first 3D printed line in this company’s portfolio and is described as utilizing the latest in additive manufacturing. A wide choice of colours and styles are featured as is typical with 3D printed, with preference given to a high-tech matte surface. Temples are produced in beta titanium balancing the Polyamide front and creating – overall – a sleak and minimal finish. Find out more: www.modo.com
Start-ups have also taken a keen interest in the potential of 3D printing in eyewear – and highlight the sustainable production and ease of customization for sizing and fit. We’ve identified a selection of small labels like Liq Eyewear (www.liq-eyewear.es); started initially as a small project by Josep Mateo Muñoz, product designer at Creax Design, a design and innovation studio in Barcelona, the team has taken the line further to launch it online and through opticians – so far in Mallorca, Ibiza, Barcelona and locations in mainland Spain. A modern, cosmopolitan style balances fashion and technology in frames which are easy to wear, and produced “on demand” with reduction in waste. For more of the latest 3D printed product news follow our updates – For our latest review featuring 3D printed sunglasses (Côte du Soleil edition by neubau eyewear) visit: https://www.eyestylist.com/2020/06/maurice-by-neubau/CN
The imaginative, gently curved SOL SOL ITO 031 DP is a frame that combines purity of design with a nod to femininity in its subtle soft lines. A statement shape, launched previously in shiny green, the Swiss independent label has now issued the style in different powerful red versions and a subtle ‘gold brown’ (pictured above) with gold-plated temples and brown temple ends. At a time when neutrals and ‘earthy’ shades such as deep, orange, ochre and clay are trending in fashion, this version in particular has a rich depth of tone that will transition well through autumn.
At Sol Sol Ito, each pair of sunglasses is limited to just 100 pieces worldwide. All the frames have a particular “click-in” temple design, an innovative feature for which design duo Monika Fink and Sandra Kaufmann have received much recognition. The collection is sold widely in fine optical stores including Auerbach & Steele in the UK. For online purchases, Sol Sol Ito’s sunglasses store has launched for the current season and can be found at https://de.solsolito.com/sunglasses Photography for Sol Sol Ito by Hans Hansen.
These particular products are on our wish list for the summer days ahead…
Preparing for staycations, balmy days of summer, moments of quiet relaxation, reflection or just a good read? In our Friday edit this week, we highlight three unique yet simple products that will lift your spirits and sense of well-being in the weeks to come. Above: Morpho + Luna’s silk eye pillow from “Les Irrésistibles” line
1. The “Les Irrésistibles” line of eye pillows makes use of archived fabric from past collections. As with the silk pieces at Morpho + Luna, the pillows are made in Italy from 100% pure silk and filled with meticulously cleaned wheat grown in Lancashire which helps to soothe and relax tired eyes whilst also being gentle on skin. Put a few drops of a favourite essential oil to the inner cotton pillow for added relaxation! https://morphoandluna.com
2. For reading glasses and sunglasses, Frank and Lucie (Netherlands) have updates in their collection, which explore pretty, delicate tones of aquamarine, seaweed and natural “watery” transparencies of ‘laguna’ and ‘morning swim’. Shapes are easy and well-proportioned with panto and round designs inspired by classic spectacles of the past. The collection also features sunglasses for reading and fun new eyewear chains. Find all the latest designs at www.frankandlucie.com
3. Alongside those moments of reading and rest, the Shed SoyCandle is a wonderfully luxurious treat with pure essential oils selected for their therapeutic and calming properties. The high quality scents will add an immediate feeling of wellbeing, while the design is unpretentious and minimal fitting perfectly with any decor – for home or work environments and a perfectly unique and elegant gift. Find our more: www.shedsoycandles.co.uk
Being a young and admittedly unseasoned fashion journalist – prior to working with Eyestylist, I had made my assumptions about the obvious rising ‘trend’ of environmentally friendly products across every aspect of the fashion industry. Be it in manufacturing, labour, materials – the emphasis and importance on where, why and how our clothing and accessories are made has never been so highlighted by the consumer and by the world. That being said, my expectations for ‘sustainable eyewear’ brands were minimal – if any. Sustainability and environmentalism within fashion has been an interest and niche of my own for a few years now and even so the number of sustainable eyewear brands releasing on the market came as a complete surprise – a very pleasant one at that.
neubau is known by most as the creative epicentre of Austria’s capital – similarly, with the 100% bio-based line of optical and sunglass frames ‘neubau’ eyewear – the independent lifestyle eyewear brand could very well be at the creative epicentre of progress in the sustainable eyewear segment. Their range is diverse – with anything from a minimal optical frame to a statement sunglass available.
neubau sent me the Maurice frames from their three-piece special edition collection; the other two styles are Romy and Alain. The Maurice style comes in evergreen matte/graphite or black coal matte/graphite frame/lens – I have the evergreen frame / amber lens and that particular colour pairing is beautifully different and eye-catching. The amber lenses are light on the eyes but succeed in blocking out harsh rays just as well as a black or dark grey lens – it must be noted that the lens production is equally technical in it’s own right; made of polycarbonate and providing 100% UVA/UVB UV400 protection – the optical clarity is flawless. The frame shape is sporty, sleek and lightweight with no compromise on comfort or durability. These particular sunglasses are made using neubau’s natural3D process – with an entirely natural material in a 3D printer. The material used is an oil extracted from castor oil plant seeds layered repeatedly with any excess material being made into other frames – ‘innovative’ does not do this completely circular, scientific and almost magical process justice. On top of the modern aesthetic, scientific facts and the physicality of the frame, the natural origins of the material means that the surface is basically pore-less and sits comfortably on the skin.
For further details and deeper insights into how neubau works I also thoroughly enjoyed the neubau blog, where enthralling stories, product details and updates on their See & Do Good initiative make for an engaging and informative read and explain how the sustainable focus is at the heart of this stunning collection and in neubau’s evolving story. Website and blog at www.neubau-eyewear.comA review by Victoria G. L. Brunton
The Dublin-based designer shares her lockdown project, ‘Me, myself & eye’
Artist/designer Jen Nollaig developed a colourful collection of intriguing works centered around upcycling old eyewear frames, during the weeks of lockdown in March/April 2020. Nollaig has built a unique niche for herself in customised artworks, and has produced pieces for clients in the UK, NYC and Ireland.
“In lockdown, I needed to anchor my mind to something that made me feel at peace,” she explained, “so I started to do what I love most and create. For me this offers a way to escape; this is what this new collection is inspired by, a personal journey of escapism in isolation, an attempt to capture the current sentiment of the new days and feelings that I am experiencing.” Above: One of the new works: ‘Processing’ is created with layered cocktail sticks, hand painted and finished off with painted compressed polystyrene balls from an old bean bag.
The works in the new series include ‘Eyesolation’ – produced out of a deconstructed diamond belt Nollaig found in a charity shop and customised with ‘googley eyes’ fromher children’s craft box.
For ‘Adjustments have been made’ – the artist says she broke apart old eyewear frames to use as the base and layered crayons and colouring pencils on top.
Previous works by Nollaig with an Xmas ‘glitter’ and ‘bauble’ theme earned her the headline ‘Ireland’s most Christmassy woman’ (Irish Times in 2019). A custom design she created for a client in New York (@happyhappyphoenix) for the Afropunk Brooklyn festival brought the designer attention in WWD and Teen Vogue. Photographs by Jen Nollaig featuring the artist. Follow Jen Nollaig and hew new works on Instagram @jen_nollaig.
Delicate, mixed hues continue to trend in women’s eyewear and recent releases show a distinct rebirth of airy mottled tones and colour variants with transparencies. At a time when flattering easy-to-wear styles will be widely appreciated, these fresh ultra-modern palettes offer uplifting new modes for sophisticated feminine styling. Above: Veronika Wildgruber model Rachel in ‘pastel’. Two transparencies combine in a confident minimal shape with highlighted top bar. Find more designs at www.eyewear.veronikawildgruber.com
The new model Freda at Andy Wolf (Ultra Light – White Heat Collection) combines the very narrow two-tone metal frame with characteristic acetate nose bridge of this range and the matching acetate tips. The line uses custom acetates with unusual colour accents such as the Springtime-inspired design above combining yellow, pink and green. www.andy-wolf.com
Fleye’s beautifully considered colour palette and playful tonal contrasts explore natural hues and, in the latest models in the Signature Collection, the translucent Nordic light – captured in works by the 19th century Skagen painters. Model Lukas has an earthy texture, reminiscent of a classic tortoiseshell, with a lighter more translucent clarity. Find out more about these frames which were due to preview at the cancelled Mido fair in February at www.fleye.dk
In the brand new releases at Volte Face Paris this month, the spectacle styles like Orely mix exclusive colours and unexpected transparencies to showcase French craftsmanship and artisan details, with chic patterning (some designs are directly inspired by contemporary textiles) and a subtle asymmetrical twist. Find out more about this new-look line at www.jfrey.fr
Seasonless, gender neutral, with both men’s and women’s collections and a mix of new launches – designers are adapting to new ways of working and presenting new lines online at the first virtual fashion week #LFWreset
London Fashion Week (#LFWreset) has launched today as a digital event, hosting multimedia content from designers, creatives, brand partners and other key collaborators. Described as a global meet-up point, the website is filled with content ranging from interviews and playlists and podcasts to digital showrooms + lookbooks, webinars and designer diary “stories”, available to all who wish to be a part of it, and (uniquely) not just trade. Above: London-based Brazilian designer Joao Maraschin – New Foreigner Traveller series – the photoshoot is launched at LFW today – with photography by Lucas Fonseca – Maraschin: ” I invited Brazilian photographer Lucas Fonseca to create a collaborative series that would show both our visions of the collection adapted to the current situation.”
The event promises a new format with an official schedule of brands and shows the typical support for and dedication to young designers and emerging talent where feasible. They include Brazilian designer Joao Maraschin who launched his collection Foreigner Traveller in February 2020 with London College of Fashion. Maraschin’s new work is presented in powerful still life photography by Lucas Fonseca where the absence of models offers a poignant reminder of current restrictions and difficulties of working as we did before.
Elizabeth Faraut expands accessories collection with LA LOOP mask chain
As the market floods with new styles of mask in all shapes and sizes, Los Angeles-based entrepreneur Elizabeth Faraut has added a new mask accessory combining functionality and style in her beautiful luxury accessories line. LA Mask is a hand-designed solution to today’s need to wear masks in public places and helps keep track of them, says Faraut.
The concept for LA Mask came when Faraut was faced with trips outside her home on weekly runs to the market and it was too easy to leave her mask behind. “As the LA LOOP is the simple way to hang one’s eyewear around the neck, LA Mask performs the same function for the personal health mask.”
When worn with a mask, LA Mask can hang from one’s neck with the mask hanging against the chest so that it is at one’s fingertips ready to be put on at a moment’s notice. When the mask is removed (by unclipping the clasps) LA Mask is a necklace or can be wrapped around the wrist and worn as a bracelet. For wider social benefit, through June and July, LA Mask will be donating a percentage of the proceeds to Downtown Women’s Center (DWC), an organization in Los Angeles focusing on serving and empowering homelessness and formerly homeless women. DWC envisions a Los Angeles with every woman housed and on a path to personal stability. LA LOOP has a long history of supporting the charity.
LA Mask is handmade in Los Angeles. The Vintage masks collection by LA Mask features fabrics like Guatemalan Indigo, seersucker blue, white pin striped cotton and Italian linens. The Classic collection masks are 100% cotton blend.
Along with this functionality, LA Mask’s creator says the product is connecting consumers and community. LA Mask customers are placing gift orders, asking their purchases to be sent directly to loved ones. Faraut is handwriting gift notes with orders that read: “Stay safe and healthy. I love you.” Find out more at www.laloop.com
Slim, pared down, and as light as can be. The new Annie model from Blackfin, the Italian independent brand, is part of the label’s Razor “retro-infused” collection created from 1mm Japanese titanium sheet and made in Italy. The eyewear producer has developed special micro mechanical processes to create the frames which, it says, have been custom-engineered to achieve a technically sound construction and finish – one of their lightest yet.
Blackfin is often ahead of the game in its launches and new high-tech titanium eyewear proposals – and even in these difficult and challenging times, the Razor concept represents a clear expression of pushing forward through innovation and bold design, for those who seek quality, technical construction and detail.
The colour palette for the Annie style ranges from the more sombre monochrome black to metallic powder pink, metallic blue, metallic Burgundy red, bright metallic violet and optic white – plenty of choice for all tastes and moods this season. Two-tone versions include white/polished silver, dark metallic bordeaux/polished silver, or Nano-Plated Champagne Light Gold combined with raspberry or bright metallic blue. Check out Blackfin’s fullranges atwww.blackfin.eu
@boyfromdagbon x @davidnyanzi shoot with streetwear brand Covrt Project in Piccadilly, London
Out of lockdown, and back on the street: Covrt Project, the emerging British streetwear brand, returns with its first shoot post-quarantine in central London by photographers @boyfromdagbon x @davidnyanzi.
The featured Covrt sunglasses from the award-winning _Mission One collection 2020 include the MP1 style, a black CNC milled steel frame with Base 2 visor lens. The innovative design of the lens is a unique element at the bridge influencing the overall shape of the sunglasses; bolted on with visible screws to the front it’s also cut away at the top and bottom, lightening the structure and creating a different and defining style-driven look.
Covrt Project eyewear is designed by Marcello Martino in London and produced exclusively in Italy. The first collection is available at high-end optical stores in UK, France, Italy and Germany – and online at www.covrtproject.com
Eyestylist.com joins with Covrt Project in a special giveaway on Instagram – from Wednesday 10th June at 9am (GMT). For a chance of winning this pair of award-winning sunglasses, visit our Instagram page at @eyestylistmagazine between 10th and 13th June 2020. For more information: www.covrtproject.com
The new Milled concept for 2020: performance, design + innovation – in Bronze edition
Tavat Eyewear’s individualistic Soupcan design – first released in 2015, is back with the introduction of a new Milled concept – in bronze. The frames were one of a series of avantgarde eyewear innovations due to show at the cancelled Mido fair in Milan in February – but nevertheless launched and now available, heading out to leading optical stores as we write.
Each frame has been milled from sheets of bronze and through elaborate machining techniques unique to the company’s production in Italy, the SoupCan design has reemerged with a fresh and modern guise. Contemporary architectural shapes and elegantly balanced metallic colours fuse alongside Tavat’s precision and refinement in production and hand finishing for the ultimate contemporary artisan line. Tavat frames undergo more than 100 production and artisanal steps with meticulous quality control throughout each work cycle. The sunglasses are fitted with Melanin sun lenses to offer enhanced contrast, sharp vision and high level protection for the retina.
Model Tank is conceived to embody the “live larger than life, dream larger” ethos. In line with former SoupCan editions, model Tank and all other styles in this series are built with specific technical details including an anti-rotation screw (inside the watch-crown hinge) a rim-lock under the nose, and Tavat’s signature temple made from Niclafor®, a flexible, easy to adjust material that gives a lasting high quality finish. For more details about the technical properties of these new state-of-the-art Tavat designs in the SoupCan Milled edition, visit www.tavat-eyewear.com
Eyewear accessories which serve another practical purpose are unique at Beaumour. The Paris brand has tapped into convenience alongside quality, with a nicely balanced design finesse for products which carry a mix of personal essentials.
Above: the collection is produced in naturally dyed leathers. Founder Quentin Stubbe has created timeless artisan-made designs adjusted to the modern lifestyle.
The range includes a card holder glasses case with space for up to 4 credit cards, a compact design made of full-grain natural leather (above).
The lightweight glasses wallet has the appearance of a slim eyewear case – on the inside there is space for eyewear, credit cards and bank notes making it ideal as a way to carry around essentials without the need for several individual accessories.
Different materials are arriving as the sustainability conversation evolves
‘Eco-friendly’ materials in eyewear are advancing, with new additions applying processes of recycling, repurposing and upcycling or exploring plant-based opportunities with a sustainable goal. This follows the fashion industries gradual introduction of materials such as bio leathers, bamboo and hemp, the use of corn starch, castor oil, roots of mushrooms (MycoTEX), bananas and pineapples and a much greater acceptance of recycled and repurposed material with more regular use of off-cuts, scraps and waste parts that would normally be thrown away.
Here are 3 independent European eyewear labels – using different eco-oriented methods and material combinations to create an alternative sustainable style (Above: EOE Eyewear – Regrind – photo credit: Farago & Farago).
1. EOE Regrind (Swedish Lapland)
EOE Regrind sunglasses are made from old, surplus eyewear. The frames are collected, sorted and then undergo a “grinding” process to produce new blocks of raw material. The colorations of the new models depend on the predominant colours of the old frames and how they are mixed. The first edition of Regrind sunglasses was a chic mainly black fashion collection with tiny flecks of coloured plastic. EOE Eyewear has extended the collection to include ophthalmic models as well as sunglasses in 2020. Find out more: https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/09/exclusive-regrind-by-eoe-eyewear/www.eoe-eyewear.com
2. Ferilli Eyewear (Italy)
Ferilli is an Italian label working with cactus. Their frames are made exclusively in Italy and have a delicate finish with the natural patterns of the plant. Their new line called “Aéras” ( “air” in Greek) is composed of six models created in prickly pear “cactus” and ebony and is dedicated to the most picturesque villages of Puglia. www.ferillieyewear.com
3. Ochis Coffee (Ukraine)
Max Gavrilenko founded Ochis Coffee Eyewear in 2018. The eco brand uses reusable organic materials – flax and coffee – as an alternative to plastic. A soybean oil based glue is used for the assembly. The frames are biodegradable and give off a natural subtle coffee aroma. www.ochiscoffee.com CN
The Austrian brand – Rolf Spectacles – who have pioneered the production of fine wood and horn spectacles made through a precise balance of technical innovation and time-honored artisan techniques, since 2009, is adding a new material to its collections in 2020.
The label, which has also developed its own unique collections using stone and 3d printed titanium is now adding a line made from a natural plant-based material taken from a species of the Euphorbiaceae family (commonly known as spurge), with exciting sustainable credentials.
“The plants are grown in tropical climates without any kind of genetic engineering, they don’t compete with food crops, and they can grow very tall, very quickly: where a spruce or a beech will only grow a few centimeters taller every year, this remarkable plant will shoot up six metres in just four months, and it comes back every year,” explains company founder and visionary Roland Wolf. “This makes the new material more sustainable and kinder to the environment than ever – and the perfect foundation upon which to build a new collection of glasses…”
The new 3d printed Substance collection by Rolf comprises 23 flexible natural skin-friendly frame styles in 6 colours and makes a highlight of the refined design typical of a Austrian-made Rolf product, as well as the unique Flexlock hinge. Find out more about Substance at www.rolf-spectacles.com