Design & Inspiration

Icons and Innovators in Copenhagen

The Copenhagen fair this weekend promises a hand-picked selection of some of the best eyewear to hit 2016 from Scandinavia, Europe and the USA, exhibiting in the Lokomotivvaerksted, a historic venue with an industrial ambiance. Eyestylist.com looks forward to visiting the fair for the first time.

One of several French companies taking part in the show, Jean-François Rey will show Line 1985 (pictured above, style Officer 6565), a limited edition of glasses and sunglasses, which reference iconic models launched in 1985 via original drawings. Current manufacturing processes and materials bring a new interpretation, combining quality, comfort and lightness. Produced in a limited edition of 500 pieces per style, the models are released with an anniversary book featuring archive photographs of Joëlle and Jean-François Rey. www.jfrey.fr

Caroline Abram
Model Penelope, in blue/gold by Caroline Abram

From Paris, young designer Caroline Abram will show her latest vibrant eyewear designs in a collection that embraces bold colour, glam shapes and luxurious material mixes.www.carolineabram.com

Orgreen
Ysabel by Orgreen Optics

Locals Orgreen Optics will attend with their extensive new collection for 2016 and several exciting statement highlights including the XY and YX sunglasses. Their range of slick, flattering titanium shapes such as the Ysabel (above) provide an excellent balance of everday style with the classic quality and superior lightness of premium titanium. www.orgreen.dk

Karmoie
Karmoie campaign 2016

From Norway, young couple Kristen and Lars Iversen travel to Copenhagen with their 2016 campaign and a collection of modern classics combining Scandinavian aesthetics and details from industrial design, always with a fresh twist such as unique understated wood look temple details. Find out more about Karmoie at www.karmoie.com.

Copenhagen Specs takes place from 5th-6th March 2016. For more information, registration and a full list of the eyewear exhibitors, visit www.copenhagenspecs.dk CN

Eyewear: Commanding…and in demand

Strong, bold shapes feature prominently in eyewear collections, with frames that are powerful – but never overpowering. Frames are crafted into unique, edgy shapes, with key detailing, enabling the wearer to express their individual personality. Kirk & Kirk have added two new shapes to their exceptional Vivarium Collection, plus an enchanting new sterling silver and 9K gold animal pin – an English Springer Spaniel – the affectionate, loyal and gentle natured hunting dog. Huxley (above) in crystal Italian acrylic, is handmade in France, exudes style and is exceptionally lightweight. Kirk & Kirk are exhibiting in Milan, and will present both the Vivarium and The Kaleidoscope Collections. www.kirkandkirk.com

Eli by RVS Eyewear
Eli by RVS Eyewear

Vidal Erkohen at RVS Eyewear creates dynamic shapes, and Eli in contrasting tones of dark and sunny Havana, with blue lenses is a striking design. Eli is included in The Shining Collection – the first ever Limited Edition by RVS Eyewear. The frames contain laminated acetates to create a custom look, and the designs are the first glossy collection to be produced by RVS – matte eyewear has been their speciality since 2007. Production is limited to one hundred pieces for each colour of each model – custom crafted collector’s items. www.rvseyewear.com

Plooi - theo+James:Plié
Plooi – theo+James:Plié

“We love crazy,” says theo, – so bold, intrepid, and innovative is stunningly apparent with this brand. Belgian designer James van Vossel had a “crazy idea”, and his creative imagination resulted in theo+James:Plié.The eye-catcher in this bi-coloured frame is the end piece. Instead of attaching the end piece to the front by welding, the end piece is part of the front piece, cut from the same metal plate. First the end piece is bended to the front, then bended backwards. There are four different designs – Plooi (above) Pli, Piega and Plissado. They all mean “pleat” in Dutch, French, Italian and Portuguese respectively. More fun and imaginative frames by theo at www.theo.be

Devi - Mondelliani for John Robshaw
Devi – Mondelliani for John Robshaw

Textile designer John Robshaw has joined forces with Italian luxury eyewear brand Mondelliani to create vibrant, colourful sunglasses. As a college student, Robshaw spent a year in Rome and absorbed “la dolce vita” with great enthusiasm. So he was delighted to combine his love of textiles, and inspired Roman ingenuity into sunglasses with vitality, spirit, style and lavish colour. Devi in fresh spring green features a sunny print on the interior. See more colourful designs by Mondelliani for John Robshaw at www.mondelliani.it JG

 

 

Smoke X Mirrors: Cool and Smokin’

A distinguished eyewear pedigree is reflected in Smoke x Mirrors with fine craftsmanship, and the merging of traditional spectacle production with state-of-the-art technology creates symmetric harmony. New York based cousins Roi Ironi and David Shabtai launched the brand last year, influenced by the style and spirit of the 1960s and 1970s. Sunglasses with attitude – combining classic and modern elements – highlight the vibrant collection in acetate and metal. Geometric silhouettes, focus on detail, fabulous colours, and artful aesthetics characterise the designs for men and women. With Smoke x Mirrors, there is always a new role to assume. Chic and cool combine in Volunteers of America (above) in bright horn with dark grey lenses. The double bridge – a Smoke x Mirrors signature statement – and the voluminous shape, express edgy glamour.

Atomic (left) and Golden Brown (right) dynamic sunglass appeal by Smoke X Mirrors
Atomic (left) and Golden Brown (right) dynamic sunglass appeal by Smoke X Mirrors

The timelessness of the designs adds to the style appeal. The male model above wears Atomic in crystal with a white acetate brow bar. A luxuriously exaggerated sunglass shape – Golden Brown – on the woman is handcrafted in matt gold metal, with an acetate rim in green pearl – an empowering design.

Passenger - Bold and striking by Smoke X Mirrors
Passenger – Bold and striking by Smoke X Mirrors

Ironi and Shabtai believe that sunglasses should be prominent and pleasing on your face. The bold, striking pattern in Passenger (above) creatively achieves this aim in bright tortoise acetate – in a sleek design that combines fashion, function and fun. Smoke x Mirrors will present the collection in Milan, and for further information on this innovative brand and their exciting collections, visit www.smokexmirrors.com JG

Trends: Folding focus

A frame which folds away provides the perfect balance of style on the move and convenience. Folding frames have been around for decades (above, vintage design at Specstacular, Shoreditch, London), and several brands like Persol have continued, through the years, to reproduce their classic folding designs, including the PO0714 “Steve McQueen” sunglasses – in updated designs with new technology.

Cellor by Persol : folding version
Cellor by Persol : folding version

Others are rekindling designs from their archives – a delightful example was shown at Lunor during the Munich eyewear fair – or coming up with completely new concepts for tidying frames away.

Tajo by Gotti Switzerland
Tajo by Gotti Switzerland

Gotti Switzerland launched their “Spin & Stow” concept in 2011. Rather than folding at the bridge or along the temple, these frames have a “rotating” mechanism at the temple so that the arms lay flat across the frame front when not in use. A special flat case has been designed to accommodate the glasses when not in use, very handy for many situations. The Götti Spin & Stow innovation is patented and has been distinguished with multiple awards (GERMAN DESIGN AWARD 2014, IF Product Design Award, red dot Design Award and V. AWARD Technology HK). Further details at www.gotti.ch

Movitra
Movitra Living Spectacles

Other noteworthy examples? A new entry from Italy, Movitra Living Spectacles proposes a cool round eye shape with a patented design system, developed by experts in micromechanical components production, and created to protect the Carl Zeiss lenses from damage. The temples of the design fold away on both sides of the lenses, protecting them on either side when not being worn. www.movitraspectacles.com CN

 

Eyewear Canine Companion Ruby

Eyestylist continues the Eyewear Canine Companion series and today we meet Ruby – “the best employee at Niloca” says owner and Niloca designer Colin Redmond in Australia.

Have you had Ruby since she was a puppy? “Ruby was actually born on St. Valentine’s day in 2009, and we picked her up as a puppy from the breeders on Easter weekend. She is an Airedale Terrier and our best employee.”

Can you please describe Ruby’s daily routine? “Ruby has her own fan base in our new location, which features a floor to ceiling glass frontage: this is where she bases herself on a restored 1930’s Art Deco arm chair. People walk by and can’t help but smile. During winter, she stays the entire day – only raising her head for pats from people walking in – and bringing treats I might add! The only other time she gets out of the chair is when a supplier visits and brings a tray of macaroons  – then it’s game on! Ruby’s main task might be a little surprising, as she is actually a very good judge of character. At day’s end we walk home together, sometimes stopping at the grocery store – where she gets more pats. The only time she’s not walking is during wet weather – her feet are made of sugar!”

Anyone for Fetch? A Swim?
Anyone for Fetch? A Swim?

What are some of Ruby’s special characteristics? “She has a snorting latex pig that she loves playing with – the snorter died in 30 seconds, but the pig remains. We found it in Paris years ago and she loves it. Now every overseas trip I have to buy a latex pig. One year I ran out of time, and she wouldn’t come for pats for a whole week. Luckily now I can buy the pigs at the local pet store if I ever forget. Sometimes if Ruby has been up all night chasing possums, she will be tired, and sleep solidly through the day.”

"I found a stick"
“I found a stick”

Has walking with your dog ever triggered a design idea? “I named a frame after her and it turned out to be the biggest selling frame I’ve designed. However, she did inspire a frame four years ago, and it will be presented at MIDO. Ruby and I were on the beach and what triggered the idea was a new yacht. The combination of materials were beautifully combined and technically advanced. The idea produced sketches that could not be produced until now, and the end result is pretty amazing. It will be another ‘eyewear first’ for our young design company.”

Ruby and child minding duties
Ruby and child minding duties

Does Ruby travel with you? “Ruby has travelled once to our outback workshop in Dubbo – a rural farming town and she loved it. Apart from that, Ruby whimpers when I start packing the bags for overseas – I don’t think she’d enjoy 24+ hour journeys. One time, I found Ruby sitting in my suitcase, looking up at me with big puppy eyes. The other place I take her is in the car to our country retreat. It’s a great place for me to refine designs and be inspired by nature’s offerings.”

Ruby Road Trip
Ruby Road Trip

Please tell us about Ruby’s watercolour portrait (to be unveiled in Milan) – is an animal portrait artist doing this? “Haha – it’s me! I was taught watercolours, which are a great medium that I don’t get enough time to indulge in. ”

Ruby at her country retreat
Ruby at her country retreat

Anything else you would like to add about your canine companion? “Without her there is no Niloca Eyewear. Ruby is part of the family, she is so much a part of our passion for life and love for what we do. Everyone that sees her smiles – she is the essence of good with a sense of humour to match, when you need it. A very instinctive and caring companion.” www.niloca.com JG