Creative energies are running particularly high at theo this year, in preparation for 2020. SILMO saw an ingenious spread of collections, among them a fresh collaborative series – the third of its kind for theo – with designer Matali Crasset. ‘Dialogues’ explores conversation and chat, with focus on the two eyewear basics – the lens and whatever goes around it; how the two interact together or relate beyond the classic ‘glasses’ form becomes a feature and a “talking point” – without constraint in the construction or the technical finesse (of course!). Above: Model Debate, in fluo pink, by theo X Matali Crasset
“The shape of the lenses is radically different from what Matali has created before” theo eyewear
Expressive, comfortable, surprisingly easy to wear. The result is six titanium styles with Crasset’s “signature” which bring a unique focus to the eyes of the wearer. Single colours emphasise the drama of the openwork and “floating effects”, exploring a bold vision, in theo style – with exquisite tones of fluo pink and orange through to sophisticated monochrome black or white – the two colours that Crasset wears herself.
Dialogues by theo X Matali Crasset was launched in Paris in September 2019; the frames will shortly become available in theo opticians worldwide. The collaborators have simultaneously launched ‘Blurred’, an even more ‘rebellious’ limited edition related to the Dialogues designs and created solely in black and white.
Matali Crasset is an industrial designer from France. She has become known for a refusal of pure shape in her work and develops new typologies articulated around principles such as modularity, appropriation, and flexibility. She has worked on far-reaching projects in different disciplines and with leading brands including Alessi, Nodus and Le Buisson. For more information visitwww.theo.be / www.matalicrasset.comCN
Silmo is a key event in the optical fair calendar where we discover innovations, new directions and trends in eyewear for the season ahead. This year, the breadth of creative proposals was significant, and attendance by independent labels showed a strong movement toward individual design, high level production and experimental work and expertise in colour, materials and eco-oriented design.
At Silmo, Tavat Eyewear showed their new avant-garde SpamCan Collection, the next step on from SoupCan, inspired by the quadratical shape of the iconic spam can or tin. Made from an impressive material composed of bronze, zinc and nickel, this new departure is highly technical and elaborate, with 27 components and a hinge based on the high-precision Swiss watch crown mechanism. The sunglasses are fitted with melanin sunglass lenses. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.com
You Mawo’s showpieces at Silmo included the Metamorphosis 3D printed Limited series and a visor design (above) with futuristic 3D side pieces. The main line has also expanded with some strong fashion shapes (cateye model Lyra) and a beautiful round design called Selene. www.youmawo.com
Monoqool launched the SUSTAIN sunglasses, a first 3d printed design made from castor beans farmed sustainably in India through the Pragati Initiative (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHe1N43IN8o ). The company has entered the Sustain programme supported by the AM-Hub organisation in Denmark with the goal of helping a selected number of small/medium size Danish companies to develop sustainable manufacturing via 3D print technology. www.monoqool.com
Kirk & Kirk have done much to promote the benefits of colourful eyewear proposals from the UK, and continue to put out glorious colorations, in both their Centena and Kaleidscope collections, with emphasis on new tones of blue, pink and mauve. www.kirkandkirk.com
The Skyline collection at ROLF Spectacles is exceptional in its avantgarde designs in 3D printed titanium. The new styles have stunning combinations of smooth and textured ‘volcanic-like’ surfaces as well as offering a lightweight, easy-to-wear eyewear solution – putting this line in a category of its own. Image above: Photographer: Clemens Ascher http://www.clemensascher.com and clothes by Mühlmann https://www.muehlmann.eu For more information about ROLF, visit www.rolfspectacles.com
New brands were plentiful at Silmo, the best ones focusing on advanced technology and technical know-how. VAERK Copenhagen puts the emphasis on beautiful engineering, tech and Danish design traditions. In collaboration with the renowned Danish industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen, this brand has developed an innovative hinge concept that not only constitutes high level precision but also an aesthetically appealing link between the frame front and temple. www.vaerkcopenhagen.com
In a completely different departure for street style aficionados, London-based designer and creative director Marcello Martino launched Covrt Project in the “start-up” area of the Silmo fair. This bold Italian made collection includes 7 sunglass styles with advanced tech features focused on enhanced comfort, durability and individual design. The collection is accompanied by unique accessories: find out more at https://covrtproject.com.
SILMO Paris will take place from 2nd to 5th October 2020 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For more information visitwww.silmoparis.com Eyestylist will report on more trends and new updates following SILMO Paris in the weeks ahead. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. Please seek permission for reprints. All rights reserved.
Ti Kwa’s avant-garde eyewear label Rigards always has something special to show at Paris Fashion Week and SILMO at this time of year – and for 2019 it’s a very special cat eye inspired by nature.
Collaborating with UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki’s award-winning womenswear line, model RG0123UJOH+ builds upon the traditional winged silhouette, with its upswept double rims, one made of ultralight aluminum-magnesium and the other of surgical-steel. The semi-stacked construction and negative-space cut away creates an illusion that the inner rims are floating over the face.
The frame’s aesthetic pays special homage to dragonflies and damselflies, insects which the designer has studied with a keen eye. Despite their simple origin from “incomplete” metamorphoses and fragile wings of gossamer, they have come to symbolize beauty, ferocity, and purity of habitat, in almost every part of the world.
A second model – RG0123UJOH – was created alongside this masterpiece. This style is described as “a little more subtle” without the statement-making cut-out (and thus the colour contrast), yet still offering a resolutely distinctive and individual alternative for the less-audacious wearer.
Forty years ago this month, Gai Gherardi and Barbara McReynolds opened an optical shop on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles – l.a. Eyeworks. Four decades later, the pioneering efforts and energy of Gherardi and McReynolds have catapulted l.a. Eyeworks into an international and influential house of eyewear design.
The anniversary year kicks off with a window campaign that will adorn the facades of more than eighty optical retailers in seven countries. Two signboards feature custom graphic designs with the messages: ‘Raise your Glasses’ and ‘Uncensored Visions since 1979’ floating above the brand’s logo. Created by L.A. based artist Nina Palomba, the design is one of numerous multidisciplinary artists and inspiring personalities with whom l.a. Eyeworks has partnered for creative marketing and photos during forty years. For the Fall 2019 portrait campaign, l.a. Eyeworks is working with three visionary photographers who will creatively express Gherardi and McReynolds’s philosophy, cementing their inspiration: “the ever-changing diverse landscape of faces.” Among the brands most famous catchphrases is: ‘A face is like a work of art. It deserves a great frame.’
In all their eyewear designs, Gherardi and McReynolds display an innate passion for colour and shape, which has enamoured opticians worldwide throughout the years. Deirdre McNally at Optica Dublin noted: “We truly admire and have fallen in love all over again with l.a. Eyeworks. They have a magic to understand eyewear.” The l.a. Eyeworks innovative magic continues to expand with exemplary designs that manifest originality, diligence and dedication, as well as passion and perseverance, that the founders have infused into their iconic brand. Congratulations to l.a. Eyeworks on this memorable occasion of their 40th Anniversary. www.laeyeworks.com JG
With just 3 days to go before the big event in Paris, designers look forward to unveiling creative designs for the forthcoming season, with graphic presentations and valuable insights into the evolution of their collections and brand stories. Silmo Paris brings together an extraordinarily wide-ranging selection of companies related to the optical field, and for those who visit as buyers, an inspirational and diverse choice of design-focused eyewear from which to select for their customers.
Newcomers’ ranges are much sought after at the fair as are the independent collections with innovative flair and precise design motivations. Alf Lunettes – from France – exhibiting for the second time, will launch a carefully presented line of handmade sunglasses and optical frames which are made in Normandy in exclusive Japanese acetates. They add beautiful, comfortable mineral photochromic lenses “to make a highly technical product” and create a universe inspired by the elegance of the 1920s through to the ’50s, anchored by a precise and heart-felt respect for quality and clean, sober lines. https://lunettes-alf.com
‘Wintersun’ was originally devised by Oliver Goldsmith back in 1965 and was a collection intended to be worn ‘during the winter months’ or through the months when dark-lensed sunglasses were not needed. The collection showcases some of the most historic shapes of the famous Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses collection such as the much favored Ynot (above), round chic Oops and the multi-sided Yatton sunglasses. www.olivergoldsmith.com
The historic family eyewear company, Lafont Paris celebrates its 40th birthday at Silmo this year. A special 40th anniversary collector’s edition box will feature iconic frames from the Lafont Archives, reimagined in a contemporary context. A nod to the 1980s, the decade when the company started will include new interpretations of the classic “Lafont” P3 and elegant cat-eyes with chic Parisian flair. A must-see at the Paris fair this year. www.lafont.com
French eyewear company Morel inaugurates an eponymous new collection of sunglasses which brings together a design that is both aesthetic and engineered, in complementary styles. A sneak peak of MOREL 80027A sums up the chic and super trendy flavour. www.morel-france.com
SILMO – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 in Paris, at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details visit www.silmoparis.com. SILMO is a trade only event.
Glorious Indian Summer weather graced the Hall of Frames Zurich exhibition, which highlighted exceptional presentations of exclusive, premium quality designs, created by independent eyewear designers and brands. Opticians from Switzerland, Germany and Austria enjoyed experiencing the two-day event. Above image: Designers attending HOF Zurich – from the left – included Matze Marpe; Birgitte Falvin; Sven Götti; and Nirvan Javan
“We had excellent feedback from the exhibitors, and visitors were really interested in individual brands, and took the time to get to know them,” said organiser Nathanaël Wenger, “and there were many interesting conversations exchanged between exhibitors and visitors – plus a lot of laughter and smiles! The atmosphere was very good, relaxed and positive.”
Beautifully crafted, individualistic frames were on display from independent innovators and brands noted for their charismatic approach to eyewear. Creative 3-D printed frames; superbly formulated wooden designs; modern minimalism in titanium; sleek acetate compositions in marvellous colours; material mixtures united for imaginative and original designs; and eco-friendly orientated frames resonated through the collections from Götti Switzerland; Orgreen; Blackfin; Rolf Spectacles; Falvin; Andy Wolf; Matze Marpe; Nirvan Javan; Any Di Munich; Fassungswerk; Caroline Abram; Neubau: Modo; Randolph USA and Tom Davies; among others.
“We are pleased with the results,” noted Wenger, “and Hall of Frames covers a clear need in the eyewear sector, and will probably increase in importance in the future. We are considering organising another show in the spring of 2020 or 2021.” More details at www.hallofframes.chJG
Amidst Extinction Rebellion environmental protests, demonstrations against leather in fashion, LFW photographers and the so-called style influencers, the crowds heading to the shows or lingering outside provide a fashion preview for autumn/winter 19 street style in the British capital. For eyewear, the variety was a talking point with a hugely eclectic mix of frames and sunglasses, from poorly styled to beautifully unique – with some very obvious over worn brand-emblazoned sunnies as well as a penchant for vintage, and mega trends of 2019 – mini Matrix shapes, the cateye (strong also in NYC) or the oversized visor and mask.
This weekend, some of the coolest looks in the city at the venues – both for glasses and sunglasses – showed there is growing confidence in understated, simple or pared back design – especially where there is an architectural detail or retro 80s/90s influenced silhouette. Above: Fashion artist @tayisiya_ph in all black, paired with a statement wide brim hat and structured timeless rectangular specs.
Our review of some of the eyewear spotted on London’s streets and at LFW will be published this coming week – follow us on Instagram @eyestylistmagazine. Top image: London Fashion Week photography by Cesare Riccardi, exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN
To a well trained eye, crystal tones (in eyewear) can vary dramatically. The most refined offer a delicate elegance due to the quality of the cellulose acetate, and the precision in tumbling and hand finishing to create the desired rich lustre or shine.
Consistent in their choice of strong and flexible Japanese cellulose acetate, SALT. Optics, the Californian eyewear brand works with a wide yet subtle palette of colours and superb clear crystal and smokey tints. The brand plays with the trending tinted crystal tones which are flattering to the complexion – often using colorations and a mix of tones inspired by the natural world, the sea, the earth and the sky. Above: model Sophia by SALT. Optics, in Smokey Grey with CR39 Denim Gradient polarized lenses. The finely crafted metal core is visible inside the clear acetate, a design touch that revisits the crafted finish of vintage eyewear.
This season, the models in the C2-19 collection include a range of finely crafted ophthalmic frames with natural tones of toasted toffee and brushed honey gold through to the sophisticated translucent smoke grey of model Gerry, pictured above.
One of the classic tones of sunglass model Andy, combines a delicate smoke grey and a bolder coloration in tea on the temples. A unisex panto design, this statement frame highlights the contrast of the metal hard ware – with plaques and pins, designed to last – lending a classic hallmark of quality to each design.
About SALT. Optics – SALT. is a premium eyewear brand from coastal California that is committed to quality frame construction and timeless design, inspired by effortless beauty. Combining high-grade materials with third generation Japanese craftsmanship, SALT. makes timeless eyewear designed for anyone who appreciates natural simplicity and lasting design. www.saltoptics.comCN
The founders of the Northern Swedish company EOE have created the first edition of eyewear made from recycled broken and discarded plastic eyewear. The collection and campaign launch this month in Paris.
Commitment to research. Investment in new technology for recycling. And admirable perseverance to set up a workable system for recycling frames in Sweden in a collaboration with the Nordic company Synsam and Vision for All. The founders of EOE Erik and Emilia Lindmark have worked for over three years on the recycling project to create a frame material with performance properties comparable to new acetate and an aesthetic finish and choice of colorations suitable for the creation of high-quality trend-focused products.
Launching the concept with the Regrind edition of three sunglasses, attention has been placed on creating a chic look in the coloration using predominantly black frames for the “regrinding” process. Tiny smatterings of minute coloured frame pieces are just visible, and create a textured effect on the surface, the look of which is wholly dependent on the types of frames recycled, the predominant colours of the frame pieces and the quality of the acetate of the old frames. Above: EOE’s new video illustrates the concept developed by EOE for turning old unwanted eyewear into a recycled material for new chic eyewear.
Regrind debuts as a fashion collection in a stunning campaign by fashion photographers Peter Farago and Ingela Klemetz Farago (www.faragofarago.com) which highlights the idiosyncrasies of the material in a beautiful wild and natural Swedish landscape.
EOE recycled acetate material is produced by EOE together with engineers, chemists and physicists. The frames are shattered into small pieces and the metal parts are then filtered out. The plastic pieces then undergo a regrinding process to create new blocks of raw material. 98% of the old eyewear is recyclable. EOE uses recycled steel from Sweden to produce the metal parts of the frames. In August the company was recognised by Encouragement for Action – Stockholm Fashion District in the “closing the loop” category, part of an award scheme to raise awareness and bring attention to important ideas in sustainability, digitization and fashion tech.
Imagination and thinking “outside the box” highlights the thriving individuality and creativity of independent, global eyewear designers. Next week (15th and 16th September) in Zurich, this elegant Swiss city on the lake, is the ideal opportunity to discover over forty gifted creators who bring new concepts, dimensions, and spirit to eyewear. Organiser Nathanaël Wenger noted: “We’ve had lots of activity and interest in the Zurich show; and even with many changes in the optical sector, the market for independents is stable and strong. Opticians know how to focus and increasingly choose independent brands. So we are really positive.”
From Andy Wolf to You Mawo, the roll call of participating brands in HOF Zurich is impressive, energetic and artistic. Companies recognised on an international level, as well as newcomers, are participating in the two-day event as Papiersaal, an historic location in the centre of this vibrant, beautiful Swiss city. Glossy acetate and minimalist titanium designs grace the masterful variety of frames by Orgreen (top image). Japanese architecture inspires the newest collection, with stunning shapes and colours www.orgreen.dk
Nature and beautiful surroundings in the Austrian region of Styria is the keynote to the latest Andy Wolf designs. In an expressive collection with innovative silhouettes and chic colourations, you’ll discover diverse frames that also reflect Andy Wolf’s commitment to sustainable use of resources. www.andy-wolf.com
Danish Titanium specialist LINDBERG launches the autumn season with a striking collection of chic designs for men and women. Exquisite detailing, and attention to every aspect of frame creation, has enabled LINDBERG to become a recognised leader and award-winner in luxury eyewear. www.lindberg.com
Fassungswerk is a small Swiss brand also inspired by Nature with their crafting of unconventional frames in acetate and horn. Quality, precision and experimental styling characterises their young contemporary concept. www.fassungswerk.ch
Parisian designer Caroline Abram dresses up women’s eyes with glamour and elegance, as well as dashing and daring concepts. Caroline’s latest dazzling optical and sunglass designs in creative colourations and marvellous shapes, are the ideal accessories for autumn/winter fashions – holidays too! www.carolineabram.com
Come enjoy and experience exciting, new eyewear with independent creators in Zurich on the 15th and 16th September at Papiersaal…a remarkable place to discover exclusively produced designs with profound pedigrees. For the full list of exhibitors and more details, visit www.hallofframes.chJG
The Silmo fair in September (international trade fair) is the pinnacle of the “eyewear designers” calendar of events, and provides our eyes with a feast of colour and innovation in design from well-known, new and up-and-coming labels who descend on Paris for several days. It’s the place we love to scout for innovation, new trends, and unique eyewear and accessories from all around the world.
Joining the line up are many companies who return to the event every year. The Marseilles designer Jean-François Rey launches new designs across multiple collections at the event, with a principal focus on expertise in colour, design creativity and beautiful French artisan quality. Highlights this year will include the new Wave collection (above) – an architecture-inspired eyewear concept using stainless steel to create lightweight, airy structures with a “folding effect” achieved by hand. Gorgeous hand applied colour combinations provide an eye-catching effect on the face. www.jfrey.fr
From Sweden, Oscar Magnuson returns each year to Paris, this time with a bio-acetate collection that marries a bold structural look with the quality and pared-down purity of high-quality Swedish design. The sunglasses collection in the same material include some statement micro shapes (model Sid) and oversized classics (model Debbie) and across the lines you will find a palette of monochrome tones such as urban green, crystal grey and deep ink – a deep sophisticated and moody tone that makes a clever alternative to black. www.oscarmagnuson.com
Their first time showing to the international audience at Silmo, Diffuser Tokyo – by Masaki Hirose – will reveal its comprehensive high-quality range of accessories which include cases, frame holders and eyewear pouches in a fresh concept that highlights quality materials and well designed functional products. Preview their ranges at www.diffuser-tokyo.com. We are already big fans.
Brand new crystal colorations and nature-infused tones are a feature for next year’s sunglasses collections. Californian label SALT. Optics is introducing new styles in their C2-19 collection which is poised to deliver beautiful heritage-inspired eyewear, made in Japan with exclusive quality features (incredible hardware through to chic glass lenses) and subtle colorations of dusty rose, hazy taupe, mojave and whiskey (above). Find out more at www.saltoptics.com
Another new name at Silmo this year, Mr Lenoir is the official brand of former football player Djibril Cissé, with optical and sunglass designs created in partnership with Laurent Balducelli, a French optician and specialist in bespoke eyewear. Produced in Montbeliard in France, the eclectic range of styles are made from Mazzucchelli acetate and in some cases feature metal laser cutting and chemical etching. They are available at a few independent stores already, both in and outside France. For more information visit their Instagram page @mrlenoirlunettes.
For luxurious, cutting-edge design, the Swiss brand Von Arkel stands apart in its achievements in applying the technical precision and craftsmanship of watchmaking to luxury frames, produced by master craftsmen in Morges in Switzerland. New sophisticated concepts will show on the Von Arkel stand at the Paris show this month: www.vonarkel.com
Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visitwww.silmoparis.comWatch our Design + Inspiration page for the next weeks for more updates and previews for the Paris show!
As The Matrix trend and tiny sunnies slightly wane in favour of oversized and “in your face” shelds and visors, miniature proportions for ophthalmic glasses are an essential look for autumn/winter. Several cutting-edge brands have just released interpretations of the look; they combine shapes we last saw trending in the 1990s with state-of-the-art materials and finishes for the contemporary twist. Above: 90s style glasses by Götti Switzerland
Götti Switzerland have launched lightweight models Gardin and Gafin for Autumn, a minimal expression of a 90s design in fine Japanese titanium, adjusting the look with contemporary influences for A/W 2019/20. The fine design features include narrow metal temple tips and a pure linear style. www.gotti.ch
The youthful Austrian label – neubau eyewear – also has some wire revival designs launching this month, produced in filigree stainless steel. The frames are light and have a barely-there effect on the face, gently outlining the expression of the eyes with oval and almond silhouettes.
Model Virginia by neubau has an almond eye shape and is available in a choice of colours: matte rose, glorious gold and matte ink black. Find out more about this eyewear label at www.neubau-eyewear.comCN
The luxury accessories brand La Loop is celebrating 20 years in the business with a gorgeous holiday capsule and sophisticated new entries for autumn/winter. The designs offer a mix of classic La Loop style and new glamorous shapes and colours, with pieces that were around when the brand first launched, and 2019 iterations.
“I was inspired by Lucio Fontana’s Earth & Gold exhibition at the Borghese gallery in Rome,” explains California based designer Elizabeth Faraut. “Fontana’s 20th century gold metallic abstract paintings were placed next to classic sculptures and paintings by Bernini and Raphael. Fontana, an abstract artist whose body of work spanned the 1920s-50s, was the pioneer of spatialism, a movement which intended to synthesize colour, sound, space, movement, and time into a new type of art.”
Overall, the collection showcases the richness of material with distinctive details that make these pieces extremely collectible. And for Silmo release, Faraut promises something for everyone: “From supple metallic Italian leather, to multi-colored Tiger’s Eye beads, chunky gold and oversized acetate links, we bring you a breadth of texture, shape, and colour. We’re offering boxy, biker-inspired gender-neutral box chains, opulent gold plated bling, and a selection of premium solid sterling necklaces made by the same family-run NY jewelry manufacturer who made our very first La Loop necklace.”
In celebration of 20 years, La Loop has launched the ‘Loop In’ campaign which focuses on honoring people who are making a difference in their local communities. The goal is to have 10,000 people ‘loop in’ and share their personal journeys of how they shape their communities – by 2020. For more on the campaign, visit the Instagram page @la_loop . For more information and to purchase direct at the online store, visit www.laloop.comCN
Antwerp creator and avid eyewear collector Laurence Bourguignon says she doesn’t follow trends nor does she focus on a specific target group or age. “My designs are an expression of myself and who I am. I can only hope they will be picked up by women with a genuine and self-confident personality, daring to express themselves.”
Named after her father Ari (short for Aristide), the collection remains something of a special ‘secret’ outside Belgium, although it’s stocked in some prestigious optical stores and luxury fashion stores like Azzurro Due (www.azzurrodue.com). Pictured above: model Authentic in Honey – a showpiece in the Laurence D’Ari collection.
The 8 sunglasses in the 2019 selection – named after characteristics of personalities which the designer admires (they include ‘Devoted’ and ‘Spirited’) are crafted in Italy in rich marble-effect acetates with bold organic or angular oversized forms and retro-infused squares and cat eyes that have characteristic sculptural definition in some details such as a wave effect in the lower edge of the temples, and an open gold temple ring to attach the accompanying gold chain.
Laurence D’Ari launched in 2018 with focus on strong, charismatic elegant styling inspired by vintage elements, especially for women. The sunglasses are available in selected opticians (including Annys Optiek, De Wilde, Philip Hoet and Frank Props) and several fashion concept stores known for unique designers and luxury apparel. Find the full collection online at www.laurencedari.comCN
Big is definitely beautiful when it comes to square frames. This shape has re-emerged in 2019 with bold retro-inspired depth and bulkiness – or a minimalist airiness – in a choice of ingeneous colorations, that beg to be worn as modern statement pieces.
Above: Essedue model Ecstasy in grey from the Italian label’s Prima collection, a handfinished line produced in a family factory in Irpinia near Naples. Prima sunglasses by Essedue are available direct from the Essedue website atwww.esseduesunglasses.com
Frames with a classic retro flair are an easy bet for all-year-round styling, and the square designs are already being hyped for SS2020. Model Fuz from Oliver Goldsmith is one that has inspired many other sunglass designs. First created in London in 1966, the frame is still constructed with bold bevelled edges and paddle temples – and comes in lots of new colorways including black leopard (above) and black cherry. www.olivergoldsmith.com
The UK label Kirk & Kirk always delivers a classic shape with a unique twist. The Percy is one of their acrylic optical styles in the Centena collection, providing a magnificently bold silhouette with the flash of transparent colour that lights up the face. www.kirkandkirk.com
In contrast, Finest Seven brings on the square with a special super fine structure. Their oversized Zero 09 has a large squareish lens with a neat double bridge. The frame is made of stainless steel wire and fitted with 100% UV 400 high quality Italian lenses. For more details visit www.finestseven.comCN
Introducing TVR®, an eyewear collection by skilled craftsmen from Sabae City, Fukui Prefecture, Japan
Japanese precision, tradition and artisanal craft: at the centre of the frame manufacturing region of Fukui, where artisans have worked for over 60 years in old family-owned workshops, today there are just a few traditional factories existing in Sabae who still produce handmade eyewear, and a handful of craftsmen and women of this age who continue to produce eyeglasses by hand. Some of them work exclusively with True Vintage Revival – TVR®, a small label dedicated to their extraordinary expertise through the revival of the historic “classic” shapes. Above: Artisan Yamada Mitsukazu, in his 70s, works with his wife in their traditional workshop. He has been making frames since he was 16 years old. Between them, they make around 100 frames a month.
TVR® uses time-tested methods to create these high-quality “revival” designs as well as original tools and moulds which date from the 1920s to the 80s. They also use the “Datum Expression Size” technique, a masterful method for measurement used during the 50s in Japan to obtain a subtle balance in the design for comfort, durability and lightness.
In the making of the TVR® classics, vintage design features including the keyhole-bridge, functional ‘spear’ rivets, 7-barrel hinges, and other traditional spectacle details are boldly executed with skill, passed down through these generations of craftsmen whose families were responsible for starting the production of Zylonite/celluloid spectacles in the early 1950s.
Today, TVR® produces a selection of collections in Japanese zyl and SPM Sun Platinum Metal – a metal material first used in Japan in the 1930s and a favourite of the former Emperor of Japan, Hirohito. The shapes are inspired by 50 rare and collectible frames the TVR® team found discarded in an old Sabae factory. The collections include the mainline TVR Collection and “YM” – the Yamada Mitsukazu collection. For details about frames in the collections launched for 2019, visit www.tvropt.comCN
Sziget festival has become one of Europe’s summer season musical highlights. Held each year in northern Budapest, the week-long event now attracts over 565,000 visitors and puts on around 1,000 performances. This year, the line up includes singer/songwriter Ed Sheeran, Post Malone and Twenty One Pilots from the US and Martin Garrix, DJ and record producer from The Netherlands.
As in previous years, all of the lead musicians/performers will receive special commemorative sunglasses made by Vinylize, the Budapest vinyl eyewear brand. Above: custom sunglasses by Vinylize await Ed Sheeran this week – where possible Zack Tipton makes the frames from the artist’s own vinyl – in this case he was able to use a copy of ‘Divide’ – Sheeran’s third album.
Vinylize was first commissioned to make sunglasses for Sziget when Zack Tipton, co-founder of the brand, had lunch with Károly Gerendai, the visionary behind the event. Gerendai appreciated the fit between Vinylize and Sziget instantly. After he sold 70% of his stake in the festival in 2018 to a US-based private equity firm, the new organizers saw the value of continuing to work with Vinylize and the relationship continues.
The Vinylize team arrives at Sziget the day before the festival begins and stays throughout. “We design and pre-make the sunglasses and take our buffing wheel, thermal equipment to form the frame to the performer’s face and sandpaper for the final touches. Much as we’d love it if the performers dropped into our store for fittings, we work from photographs. 90% of the time our frames fit pretty well, and we just need some minor adjustments.”
The Mono-glass is part of RCA fashion graduate Yi Wen Lim’s SOFT POWER project (RCA 2019). SOFT POWER celebrates women at work and represents a new image of power and femininity.
RCA Fashion (Womenswear) graduate Yi Wen Lim has produced a stunning, wearable Mono-glass as part of a finals project entitled SOFT POWER. The jewellery collection was designed in collaboration with Yi Wen Lim’s close jeweller friend Agatha (Instagram: @raccoonandbabiesofficial), and explores re-appropriating jewellery in the formal workplace. Above: Model Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstein wears Yi Wen Lim’s design
Highlights in the collection include the merging of power pearls with everyday work accessories, stationery and tech wearables – these pieces include a biro pen cap ear cuff, Airpods pearl necklace, ID Badge necklace and the Mono-glass with Hair-clip.
“The Mono-glass is inspired by work glasses that women wear, sometimes as a means to establish their intelligence and competence,” says the designer. “It is also inspired by tech accessories like the Google Glass, which perhaps can one day be integrated into more ‘aestheticised’ designs like the SOFT POWER Mono-glass,” she explains.
Yi Wen Lim’s friend/muse Mercedes von Thun-Hohenstien (www.mercedesvonthun.com) wore the monocle design at the RCA finals presentation in London in June – and immediately caught our eye. “I found her through Instagram @mvthun21,” said Yi Wen Lim. “She is a mature model, and has been very generous with her time and support for me. She has modelled for my presentations and for video and photoshoots. We have become close over the past few months, and we are now great friends.” For more information about Yi Wen Lim’s work visit her page on Instagram – @__wenlim. Other RCA posts on Eyestylist: https://www.eyestylist.com/2016/12/rca-x-100-optical/CN
Fresh colours, fun shapes and fashion preferences enhance the immense variety available in children’s eyewear. With so many inspiring choices, youngsters can select frame styles that adapt to their individual personality. From toddlers to teens, children’s eyewear has a unique path with creative frames by international companies who take youngster’s style savvy knowledge into consideration. Danish label LINDBERG features innovative design for kids with the air titanium rim collection. With expertly crafted lightweight shapes, colours and safety elements with high density kid appeal – the air titanium rim designs are available in a variety of colours, including Jackie in two-tone green (above image). www.lindberg.com
The Next Generation is celebrated by Götti Switzerland with children’s designs using futuristic 3D printing. The stunning results are personalised frames that are light, flexible, stylish and sleek. Two new beautiful colours are welcome additions to the collection – Flamingo and Pool (above). The designs are constructed in Götti’s Swiss factory, with no screws or soldered joints, yet the Dimension Next frames are robust and will successfully withstand youthful antics and adventures. Contented children – and mothers – report that their children enjoy the uncluttered styling, comfort and stability of the Next Generation Dimension designs. www.gotti.ch
Cultural richness and artistic excitement inspire the 2019 Kids and Teens collection by JF Rey. A street-art spirit embraces the geometric and graphic shapes, available in acetate and metal. Youngsters from the age of 4-16 can find frame shapes energised with beautiful colours in the wide variety of designs available in the JF Rey Kids and Teens selections. Kids will love to wear the compact round shape Slide (above) delicately scaled for small faces with exclusive hues and innovative styling. Discover more spirited designs for children at www.jfrey.fr
Quality, durability, fashion and fine styling – you’ll find them all in the Lafont Paris children’s collection. The latest designs (including Entrechat for girls above image) combine vintage concepts with technical expertise, and stunning colour combinations. Entrechat reveals a subtle and graceful feline influence, with a three-dimensional perspective. Shown in blue with camel, Entrechat is also available in Red, Black and Tortoise. Explore more Lafont Paris designs for infants to teenagers at www.lafont.comJG
Eyewear and art share and enjoy reciprocal excellence, and beautiful harmony is embodied elegantly with Götti’s stunning collections. With the perception of spectacle frames and an innovative accessory for your eyes and face, glasses radiate a distinct personality with character and finesse. Sven Götti at Götti Switzerland approaches his designs with a musical, artistic rhythm. Exclusively for Eyestylist.com, visual concept creators Elisa and Jasmin Teichtmeister, who are sisters, organised a photo shoot with Austrian artist Julian Epok in his Vienna atelier, wearing timeless eyewear designs created by Sven. In the above image, Julian wears Bold 11 – streamlined, sleek and lightweight sunglasses from the Götti Perspective Collection. The lenses are available in eight distinctive colours.
Artistically stylish and developed with high-tech expertise, the Perspective Collection embraces airiness, flexibility, and masterful minimalism. Style DS02 (above) combines graphic components in a striking double-bridge design. www.gotti.ch The complete Götti collections will be presented at Hall of Frames Zurich 15th-16th September www.hallofframes.ch and at SILMO in Paris 27th-30th September. www.silmoparis.com Jasmin Teichtmeister is a fashion stylist for eyewear and accessories. email@example.com Elisa Teichtmeister is a fine art photographer and multi-media artist. firstname.lastname@example.org Austrian artist Julian Epok www.julianepok.comJG
The shift towards eco trends and sustainability is a continuing story in eyewear, with many new examples of eco-friendly innovations, greater sustainable focus in companies or more focused recycling endeavours in product and packaging.
One of the latest to launch is art initiative + e-commerce platform “One. All Every.” who has teamed with RVS Eyewear and Ugo Rondinone to launch See A Clean Future, a line of colorful sustainable sunglasses, designed to raise awareness of environmental issues and climate change. The collection debuted at Design Miami in Basel Switzerland (the booth was made from wood and earth, pictured above) and is available for a limited period until June 2020.
The frames consist of the innovative materials from the Italian Mazzucchelli company using their M49 bio-plastic, which is eco-friendly, recyclable, and biodegradable. The bioplastic is produced from cotton linters and wood fibers, which are purified into a pulp and then transformed into a resin known as M49. (www.mazzucchelli1849.it)
All metal inlays as well as temple hinges in the sunglasses are made of a recyclable stainless steel. The steel is coated with ion plating which protects the surface and allows the engraving of the frames. Ion plating is a physical vapor deposition process that uses concurrent or periodic bombardment of the substrate with aluminium, which is recyclable and non-toxic to the environment.
The sunglass lenses revert back to the traditional use of glass. According to the project directors, glass lenses are not only more environmentally sustainable but also ensure precision clarity and a refined aesthetic.
Artist Ugo Rondinone’s designs are applied to the case and box containers, which are made from recycled cardboard and eco-friendly paper, made in London. Additionally, exhibition and furniture design at Design Miami consist of non-toxic and bio materials. The project supports the work of the Jane Goodall Institute, the Green Belt Movement and the E.O. Wilson Biodiversity Foundation. For more information: www.oneallevery.comCN
With the launch of two more far-from-ordinary retro inspired sunglasses, Ørgreen Optics’ Quantum collection continues to lead us down a path of advanced fashion styling, only achievable with the solid commitment in R&D and qualitative focus of one of the leading innovator teams in modern eyewear.
Models Marsala and Amalfi from the Down South series are named after the popular holiday destinations stretching along the coast of the Campania region in Italy and the Sicilian province of Trapani. Their classically inspired shapes are highlighted by an ultra-cool bas relief patterning created through the high-tech 3d printing technology, while the feeling on the face is of lightness, comfort, and ease of wear.
Quantum’s impact, since its launch in 2017, has been significant at the cutting-edge of the roster of 3d printed collections – particularly in the technically focused combination of titanium with Polyamide, and its patented hinge design using a minute spherical component which connects the titanium temple to the polyamide front. The frames are available at selected opticians and in Copenhagen at the brand’s flagship store. For more details about Ørgreen Optics, visit www.orgreenoptics.comCN
In time for summer – l.a. Eyeworks has launched FICTION Sun – stunning prescription sunglasses from the California label. Now FICTION designs are available in both optical (Eyestylist.com 25th April 2019) and sun options. Whether your preferred summer activities include parks and picnics, or sand and sailing, the contemporary styling of the new FICTION Sun styles adds fashion flair and exciting charisma. Timeless yet trendy, cat-eye frames transcend the decades. Dress (above) in Blue Wiggle is a jaunty frame with gentle contours, and relaxed comfort.
Acetate and metal unite in Wake, with a curved double bridge in metal, and acetate frame front. The finely crafted frames merge the latest technology, with precise details, and sophisticated colours.
Among the contemporary designs in the capsule collection of eight different frames is the desirable NOTCH, in Tokyo Tortoise. Tortoise is an enduring colouration in eyewear, and the creative colour play in Notch, with a metal double bridge and retro hints, ensure a frame with self-confidence and expression. Visit www.fictionframes.com to see more FICTION styles, and the label’s diverse variety of innovative frames. JG
The two year old Kensington optical boutique The Eye Establishment continues to lead the way in bringing fine eyewear collections to their local community – with an astutely curated selection of brands from around the globe – and the best optical parties in town. Located in a busy street near Earl’s Court, the shop itself stocks frames by L.G.R, Garrett Leight, Celine, DITA and Japanese label Eyevan 7285, among others. They have a beautiful selection of chains by Frame Chain, the trendsetting British accessories brand who have turned the eyewear chain into a must-have fashion staple. Photography by Cesare Riccardi for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.
Last week’s party brought together guests and regular customers for a full showing of the Garrett Leight Collection (GLCO) for Spring/Summer. The LA-based brand has sparked particular attention this season thanks to appearances by Leonardo DiCaprio and Brad Pitt at Cannes in their sunnies (Beach Sun and Calabar Sun) for the premiere of Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time…In Hollywood.
Unisex designs with a square shape and graduated lenses, cat eye silhouettes and quirky multi-sided shapes like the Jacqueline Sun (pictured above) were a big hit with guests. The crystal acetate sunnies are also doing well for the summer, particularly when paired with colorful lens tones of pink, blue or berry. Vintage touches lend a touch of old-school design, which everyone seems to love, with features like a defined keyhole bridge adding style and a comfortable fit.
The Eye Est. is run by Nadeem Rob and his wife, Fahmida Kamal. For more details about testing at the Eye Est. and to purchase frames online visit: www.eye-est.com. California party design exclusively for The Eye Est. by the Event Builders @theeventbuilders. Eyestylist.com thanks the Eye Est. for a warm welcome at their summer event.CN
Generous linear proportions, delicious colours and luxuriously sculpted, Finest Seven proposes glamorous sunglasses for summer adventures. Designed by New Zealand couple Ainjali and Jesse Fine, the frames are crafted in beautiful materials with dedication to exquisite details. For the latest campaign Ainjali commented: “We wanted a high summer shoot with lots of colour.” The frame silhouettes in Finest Seven designs are exquisitely formed with distinctive variations on contemporary shapes. In the above photo, the male model wears Zero 13 with blue gradient lenses. Colour variations of the lenses are beautifully expressed in Zero 14 with Tequila Sunrise lens, worn by the female model.
Sunglasses are a powerful – as well as a protective – accessory. Travel escapades enable people to follow the sun, and captivating sun specs are the ultimate fashion accessory. Ainjali and Jesse appreciate vintage eyewear, and Zero 16 (above) highlights this with a gentle cat-eye in a superbly slim, yet voluminous shape. Tequila Sunrise lenses give instant charm and charisma to summer fashions.
Finest Seven designs pursue romantic, mysterious, and contemporary concepts. Graphic streamlining in Zero 15, is complimented by a thin double bridge. Baby Pink Mirror lenses embolden the sunglasses with characteristic Finest Seven style. Discover more unconventional shapes, colours and dramatic details from the collection at www.finestseven.comJG Photos by Elisa Teichtmeister All Rights Reserved
Craftsmanship, creativity, and fine design are the benchmarks for independent eyewear designers exhibiting at Hall of Frames Zurich in September. Organiser Nathanaël Wenger said: “The show has made a name for itself as a meeting point for independent opticians and eyewear designers.”
“For the first time,” continued Wenger, “the event will take place in September – Sunday 15th and Monday 16th. Our location remains the same – the historical Papiersaal in Sihlcity in the centre of Zurich. Many of the exhibitors are among the pioneers who have shaped the eyewear market over the years.”
Wenger noted that diverse collections to be seen at the event include designers and brands with selections in acetate, metal, stainless steel, wood and horn, plus 3D technology that have set new standards for alluring eyewear.
Among the participants are Blackfin from Italy (top image) Swiss labels Götti; Von Arkel; Nirvan Javan; Baselli and Fassungswerk; Orgreen from Copenhagen; German brands Dusseldorf; You Mawo and Matze Marpe; Rolf Spectacles from The Tyrol in Austria and Andy Wolf; Randolph Engineering from USA; among other exciting labels.
Demand for high quality, innovative eyewear remains strong. “In general, the mood among independent specialist opticians is good,” said Wenger. This optimistic attitude is a reflection of the distinctive, desirable eyewear designs beautifully crafted from international creators. Save the dates! 15th and 16th September, Hall of Frames Zurich at Papiersaal. Additional details at www.hallofframes.chJG
Classic shapes are confirmed as the ultimate accessory for men this summer. Not only do these designs define an outfit and look good on most faces, their beautiful colorations, details and subtleties, particularly in the superior acetate materials, make a design statement in themselves.
Emerging label, Lunettes Alf has created one of the most easy-to-wear artisan collections of timeless designs, made in France and signed with a small red thread woven by hand into one temple tip as a reminder of each model’s provenance, quality and refined detailing.
Inspired by famous faces of the past, and a touch of the elegance of James Dean and the refined humour of Woody Allen, the e18.02.008 in crystal embodies an old-world 1940s charm with its half-ring profile and riveted hinges. For more details: https://lunettes-alf.com/collection/?lang=en#alf_2
Unisex model e18.04 – available in several classic colours of tortoise, black and crystal, is inspired by the soul and hip hop street culture of the 1980s and like the other highlighted models features the brand’s signature photochromic mineral glass sun lenses. More details: https://lunettes-alf.com/collection/?lang=en#alf_4
Eyestylist shot on location in Florence, Italy. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia (@genndel) exclusively for Eyestylist.com. Model: Alex Mancini (@mancini_alex). Sunglasses by Lunettes Alf. https://lunettes-alf.com CN
Free-spirited and adventurous, RIGARDS launches their latest exhilarating designs with bold, distinctive silhouettes. Designer Ti Kwa is fascinated with the work of H.R. Giger, the Swiss painter also acclaimed for his amazing special effects in the film Alien. The intrigue with Giger’s concepts led to Sentinel (above), moulded in natural horn with larger than life dimensions that ensure the frame is all the more imposing. Sensuous sculpting on the frame front adds to the dramatic, luxurious and impressive effect.
A favourite childhood film – Clash of the Titans – is the inspiration for RIGARDS striking design Nite Owl. The mechanical owl in the film – Bubo – influenced the stunning, painstakingly crafted frame in lightweight aluminium and magnesium. Deftly cast with a beak-like bridge, flowing sweeping curves, and ribbing details, Nite Owl fully expresses RIGARDS masterful accomplishment for powerful, unorthodox eyewear. Discover more avant-garde, splendid designs from the independent creator at www.rigards.comJG