100% Optical, London 2020

Collection recommendations

This year’s edition of 100% in London will bring together a cross-section of frame collections, with independent labels represented by companies from far and wide including California, Copenhagen, Paris, Madrid and Brighton in the UK. The excellent quality and craftsmanship of the independent collections offer the UK independent optician attending this event much opportunity and should be a point of reference as an important direction for their stores, providing customers with new, exciting design-focused premium quality eyewear.

The fair will highlight major players such as Design Eyewear Group, Orgreen Optics and Morel France alongside small artisan labels and newcomers who we look forward to seeing (some are showing for the first time in the UK). Highlights in this area will include: Lara D’ (Italy), Booth + Bruce (UK), FACE A FACE (Paris), Covrt Project (UK), Kaleos (Spain), Kirk and Kirk (Brighton, UK) Nina Mûr (Spain), and Kame Mannen (Japan).

Above: FACE A FACE will be present at 100% Optical, with Design Eyewear Group. Among their new collections is the latest range of Bocca frames – Bocca Pixel, in eye-catching raw machined acetate, which is sandblasted and polished. The Bocca shoe has been abstracted in this cool collection inspired by 3d pixelated effects. The colour selection includes delicate pastels and exciting patterns. Find out more: www.faceaface-paris.com

Look for lilac in 2020: model Andrew by Kirk and Kirk

Kirk and Kirk is a familiar face at 100%. The Brighton-based company will show its Kaleidoscope, Centena and Spectrum lines which offer uplifting colour and some of the hottest tones of the year. Find out more at www.kirkandkirk.com

 

Chico by SALT. Optics – in a collaboration with Second / Layer

SALT. Optics are a go-to brand for quality, and continue to do well with the UK market. Their frames are designed in California and made in Japan, with all the attributes of a well-made premium-quality design with unique details such as traditionally inspired pins and rivets. The classic or nature-inspired colour schemes are evocative of the land and seascapes of coastal California. www.saltopics.com

Turning ocean waste into sustainable eyewear: Sea2See

Anyone seeking out a strong, sustainable eyewear collection should visit Sea2See Eyewear at the London show. The collections by this enterprising company continue to expand. The frames are made from 100% recycled plastic ocean waste. Find out more at www.sea2see.org

Lunettes Alf comes to London from Paris this year

One of our favourite French newcomers has just reserved to attend the show in London. Lunettes Alf is an artisan label with a love for retro style and elegant handcrafted design work. Find out about this brand at www.lunettes-alf.com

Cuantica collection /  Nina Mûr : inspired by the microcosm

Nina Mûr is attending the London fair for the first time. Based in Madrid, the brand produces elegant, architectural eyewear pieces with a focus on advanced – often sustainable – materials (including wood) and special concepts of design “with a story”. One of their latest ranges is inspired by the microcosm (above),  with superimposed layers and materials which have an unusual and surprising finish. www.ninamur.com

A highlight of the 100% optical fair, the RCA competition for new talent is this year focused on the theme of ‘Love’. The work of the finalists will be on display throughout the weekend. The finalists are: Rebecca Armstrong, Womenswear, 1st year; Yili Cao, Womenswear (Millinery); Annie Mackinnon, Womenswear, 1st year; Adam Frost, Womenswear, 1st year; Reiss Dendie, Footwear, 1st year; Kitfung Sun, Menswear Accessories, 2nd year. 

To register for 100% Optical, visit the website: www.100percentoptical.com Feature written by Clodagh Norton exclusively for www.eyestylist.com.  The permission of the author must be sought to reprint or re-publish the materials in this article.

opti 2020: a showcase for the start of the decade

The first trade show of the year – opti 2020 – set the stage for what’s to come, with packed halls proposing a huge variety of niche eyewear labels, iconic brands and high-profile fashion brands – from around the world.

Our personal highlights at the show will be featured in the weeks to come. They included the new face scanning app at the German 3D printed brand You Mawo and a variety of collection launches that were innovative and impeccably produced. We have much to say on new colour, style directions and design trends, as well as having identified some impactful Limited Editions from California, Marseilles and Milan.

The beautifully curated opti BOXES cater to those who wish to explore emerging collections. Participants of note in this area included from France, Lunettes Alf, from the UK, Covrt Project (winner of the Newcomer Award at the fair), from Italy, Beate Leinz, and from Israel, Tough Character. Above: Leinz Eyewear by Berlin based eyewear designer, Beate Leinz. The collection, which is the designer’s first eponymous line, is presented under the concept of ‘contrasts and hybrids’. The frames feature two contrasting materials – acetate and and polyamide, achieving a mix of traditional Italian craftsmanship with high-end Belgian technology, created and coordinated from Berlin. www.leinzeyewear.com

Lunettes Alf: artisan sunglasses, produced in France

Lunettes Alf was present in the opti BOXES. This young French brand is attracting much interest from top level European independent stores who identify with its beautiful classical focus on restrained colours and shapes inspired from the past. www.lunettes-alf.com

Titanium expertise: Coblens has 10 new shapes in full titanium

Coblens Eyewear from Germany showed its latest titanium styles and a chic new line in Japanese acetate paired with titanium temples called Stadtgarten, coming into stores this season. The Coblens collection has expanded dramatically with intricate finishing and colorations and very elegant shapes in the Endlos “rimless” series. See the latest styles at www.coblens.com

Model Tottori by theo © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

We were delighted to see a new theo frame family for January 2020, inspired by the powerful beauty of the contours and folds of sand dunes around the world. Tottori (above) – named after a dune system on the North West coast of Japan – is one of five shapes in this group of designs that explore soft sloping forms, steep angles and delicate dips. www.theo.be

Neon Berlin: 3D printed eyewear from the German independent label

Neon Berlin showed their new 3d printed collection on an impeccably stylish sustainable exhibition stand that packed into two small hand held boxes – for easy transportation by train. The brand is consistently creative with their style and DNA and explore new materials, groundbreaking manufacturing methods as well as sustainable concepts – an area that was a particular focus at the opti fair this year. Find out more at www.neonberlin.com

In 2021, opti takes place from 8th to 10th January in Stuttgart, Germany. To find further details about the new location visit www.opti.de

 

Men’s style Milan: On the Street

Oversized full-wrap visors (we prefer them slightly retro), geometric statement sunglasses, edgy 70s, 80s or 90s shapes and all the classics we’d expect in metal or acetate. Large or small. Chunky, subtly sporty, and even rimless. Not forgetting the many different versions of the aviator. The streets of Milan are always notable when fashion week takes off and everyone’s in town…and for eyewear, all manner of styling showed up outside the shows, with the emphasis on statement-making via redefined classics. Above: Alex Badia (@thealexbadia) in leather with angular, dark tortoise visor. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com at Milan Fashion Week (FW2020).

Model Rob Drishti wears 90s vintage sunglasses

The 1990s continues to play a role in 2020. We expect more focus on angular styles for men with a penchant for classic black edgy looks and dark tortoise tones.

Yilmaz Aktepe, Editor in chief, Men’s Health Germany – in Kyme sunglasses

The round traditional eyewear styles are still with us, of course. Classic tortoise designs with the key hole bridge are always a go-to option for the best-dressed in Milan.

River Viiperi, model and owner of @rvgear

Off the catwalk, River Viiperi’s street-vibe look is made easy with a solid metal frame featuring an angled oval eye shape. For more images from Milan, visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine. Photography by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.

Materials focus: 357 collection by Vinylize

Repurposed material: spent cartridges

Budapest’s eyewear innovators, Vinylize continue their work in recycling and repurposing material for eyewear with the 357 collection – showing at the opti fair in Munich this weekend. The first line in a new performance collection, 357 incorporates spent cartridge cases as a functional element of the frames. This is the first time an eyewear brand has reused spent ammunition to create wearable frames suitable for everyday. Designer, Zack Tipton said he expects a ‘love it or hate it’ reaction, owing to the controversial nature of the upcycled material’s provenance. “I want to call attention to the casualization of destruction with this collection” he explains. “Not just of humans, but of our planet in general. We have casualized destruction to such an extent that the necessary tools can be easily acquired. And we don’t have the power to stop ourselves from using them.”

Slender design, provocative end tips : made from a 357 Magnum cartridge

The cartridge, also known as ‘casings’ or ‘brass’, is the element that holds the bullet, gunpowder and primer. Casings are made from brass, one of the most well-known metals in jewellery making. According to Vinylize, more than 12 billion cartridges are produced globally per year. In this process, each casing is machined to fit the temple tip and then washed before being incorporated into a 357 frame.

Vinylize: performance collection

357 is inspired by a philosophy of balance, durability and design. The frame front is made from stainless steel and uses a semi rimless construction to hold the lens in place – designed to reduce frame front weight. A compressed spring is discharge machined into the beta titanium temples for maximum flexibility and comfort. A 357 Magnum cartridge is fitted into each temple tip to create the counterweight and a visible detail for the frames. For more information: www.vinylize.com

Lunettes Alf: the elegance of simplicity

2020 will be a year that celebrates timeless classics in eyewear, frames that work with traditional forms and shapes, in high quality materials with an attentive respect for artisan techniques and meticulous hand finishing. In a series focusing on classic style in 2020, Eyestylist will highlight notable new labels and icons of eyewear through the year.

The past few years have seen a flow of new artisan eyewear labels, fascinated by quality, traditional spectacle-making processes and an aesthetic that updates classic design with delicacy and style. One of the finest and latest to arrive in France is Lunettes Alf, who launched their first line in early 2018. “Whether sun or optical, alf glasses are synonymous with high quality,” say co-founders and brothers, Germain and Alexis. Above: introducing new shapes for 2020.

Lunettes Alf: designed in Paris, made in Normandy

Alf frames are inspired by the early decades of the 20th century, and more specifically the elegance of the rimmed spectacles of the 1920s to the 1950s with beautiful yet restrained colorations, and hand polished surfaces with an eye-catching shine. Designed in Paris and made in Normandy in France, the frames are identified by a small red thread woven by hand into the end tip – a reminder of their artisan provenance and alf’s dedication to quality and considered design.

Lunettes Alf: hand polished acetate, distinctive soft rounded surfaces, mineral lenses

Lunettes Alf will show their full collection including four new styles at opti 2020 (10th to 12th January 2020) in the opti BOXES (www.opti.de), an area dedicated to new and emerging trendsetters. Their collection is now available in 50 independent optical stores.

About the brand – Alf is a French family business, created in early 2018. Alexis has worked in optics for many years and trained at l’École des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France Lunetiers. Germain is an expert in business and works within the luxury sector in France. Designed in their Paris studio and made in Normandy, Lunettes Alf use Japanese acetate and mineral photochromic lenses in designs with a classical elegance, respectful of tradition with a clean, simple aesthetic and predominantly sober, clean lines. Find out more at www.lunettes-alf.com

Inside view: opti 2020

Iconic designers side by side with emerging cutting-edge labels and the innovators of the industry: the first opti Munich of the new decade takes place this weekend from 10th to 12th January and will provide an exceptional overview of eyewear trends and innovations, with packed halls featuring over 600 exhibitors presenting themselves and their new offerings.

Pushing forward with their long-term commitment to sustainability – one of the most talked about topics in fashion as the new year begins – Swedish innovators EOE Eyewear will present their frame edition made from old eyewear – Regrind. Also showing is the new EOE biodegradable acetate collection – named after Swedish slang words, which has a new ‘chunky-effect’ design expression, and the latest intriguing styles in the Titanium collection. Two of those frames, Krycklan and Ramsan, have a unique design detail which allows jewellery to be attached and suspended as a decoration at the temple. The jewellery pieces are handmade in Stockholm and produced in recycled silver with a tiny gemstone from Swedish Lapland. Find out more details about EOE at www.eoe-eyewear.com

Optical style Gimlet by Res/Rei

Res/Rei is heading to the fair with new thin acetate designs fitted with multicolored gradient lenses, a tempting glimpse of what’s coming for summer. The touch and feel of the brand’s beautiful styles for the season are key to understanding their artisan quality and refinement. The company has just announced that a new collection will also be released at the show. Watch this space! www.resrei.com

Chico by SALT. Optics – a collaborative edition with fashion label Second / Layer

SALT. Optics will show the latest additions in their main line for 2020 and beautifully finished ‘made in Japan’ acetates launched in collaboration with Second/Layer – the Californian fashion brand. The quality and finish of these designs owes much to the brand’s impeccable attention to detail and ‘best in class’ Japanese production. www.saltoptics.com

Spectacle Eyeworks: an exquisite mix of materials

Spectacle Eyeworks travel to Munich from their hometown of Vancouver. Designer Mehran Baghaie combines stainless steel and acetate in his latest designs which balance inspiration from nature, history and indigenous art. Founded in 1996, this small independent eyewear company has stood the test of time maintaining creativity and technical precision in its lines with bold ideas in shape and colour. Their success and innovative endeavours continue. See the latest designs at www.spec-eyeworks.com

Covrt Project – model AS2:  a new arrival at opti 2020

For anyone looking for classy newcomers, Covrt Project promises a new style of eyewear for connoisseurs of street style. The 2020 sunglasses collection _Mission One balances technical details and an authoritative fashion style born in London and realised (according to exacting levels of production) in Italy.  The brand exhibits its sunglasses and eyewear accessories for the first time in the opti Boxes. Find out more at www.covrtproject.com

opti – the international trade show for optics & design, takes place at Fairground Munich from 10th to 12th January, 2020. Registration is open to trade visitors at www.opti.de. Written by Clodagh Norton.

2020 collection watch: 5 emerging labels

Handpicked by Eyestylist.com: The start of a new decade is good reason to showcase our pick of the emerging labels in independent eyewear – from around the world. Here are five we think deserve special attention for their unique design approach, experimental character or dedication to research and genuine aspirations to produce good design with creative inspiration.

1. LAURENCE D’ARI, Antwerp, Belgium

Combining chic styling and made in Italy quality in sunglass designs for women, designer Laurence Bourguignon comes to eyewear having collected frames for most of her lifetime. Her unique style is beautifully represented in the sunglasses collection 2019, where oversized shapes with organic “wavy” details are proposed in beautiful minimal and classical colours with feminine grace. We look forward to seeing more from the brand in the next 12 months. See the Eyestylist 2019 post at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/chic-with-character-laurence-dari-antwerp/www.laurencedari.com

We Are Annu from Germany

2. WE ARE ANNU, Germany

The team at start-up We are Annu are inspiring, enthusiastic and quietly confident and with good reason. Their products speak for themselves – mixing technical precision, minimal design and comfort. They launched at opti in Munich in 2019 and since then they have grown quickly to a team of 18. Find out more at interview at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/12/we-are-annu/

Model Oceana in Watermelon

3. TYCH AND ISET, Los Angeles

The new collection by young designer Morganne Leigh – and specifically the Las Iguanas design – is one of the frames currently our wish list for 2020. Inspired by the flora and fauna of the Galapagos in the Pacific, this is a bold and beautiful statement range of sunglasses by a female creative to watch out for in the New Year. We happen to know there are exciting new things in the works. Find out more at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/the-galapagos-collection-by-tyche-iset/

VAERK no 301 in black

4. VAERK, Copenhagen

This new label from Denmark is getting good reviews for its balance of style and technical precision, proposing designs that have a lovely Scandinavian minimalist feel achieved in high-class materials such as carbon and stainless steel. The beautiful technical hinge is a collaborative design with industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen. See our first feature on Vaerk Copenhagen at www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/silmo-paris-notes-on-whats-to-come/ 

LIEN – gold eyewear accessories label

5. LIEN ATELIER, Hong Kong

Film director Jenny Suen has launched this new accessories label, designed exclusively for women. Determined to bring a fine jewellery style to the eyewear chain, Jenny’s first collection offers chains in 18K gold with pretty freshwater pearls. The chains are already stocked in some very unique fashion stores and opticians in Europe and Asia. Find out more at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/exclusive-lien-atelier-jewellery-chains/

2019: frames to remember

While anticipation rises in December for what’s to come, it’s also a good time to look back at what’s caught our eye…here are five frames by independent designers we think you’ll remember for some time to come. To see more of our selections visit our Reviews at https://www.eyestylist.com/category/reviews/

Kirk and Kirk have been flying the flag for colourful eyewear yet again in 2019 and their tones of hot pink and fuchsia or elegant sage (above, cat’s eye model Esme in the Centena collection in sage – https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/03/kk-expressive-video-centennial-celebration/) have helped pave the way for another brightly colored year of independent eyewear in 2020. Model Jasmine in the Spectrum collection was also a particularly outstanding statement design in eye-popping hot pink and we’ve spotted it in stores, far and wide. www.kirkandkirk.com

Delicieuse at Lafont Paris – the ultimate floral statement

Model Delicieuse by Lafont Paris was a memorable feature of the summer collections in 2019 with its incredible floral composition (see https://www.eyestylist.com/2018/09/silmo-spec-tacular/). Launched at the Paris trade fair in 2018, this artistic capsule line went on to enjoy much publicity and praise for its complex design and enamel and crystal treatments. www.lafontparis.com

Malina Sunglasses by You Mawo

You Mawo produce made-to-measure 3D printed frames with everyday qualities such as lightness and comfort and a style that is minimal and modern. Alongside the collection they produce some spectacular limited editions – Malina, from early 2019 (featured by Eyestylist at https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/02/you-mawo-limited-edition-malina/) was inspired by the Inuits and has a narrow oval lens shape with eye-catching black Polyamide rim. Find out more at www.youmawo.com

Late 1970s punk influences at Kuboraum – Sid Vicious Capsule

Mask A1 ‘Pretty Vacant’ in the Sid Vicious Capsule is one of eight terrific, creative, rebellious frame designs decorated with safety pins, spikes, metal studs and stacked piercings, achieved through very committed artisan techniques and carving, burning and painting, turning the surfaces “into raw foundations of graffiti splashed walls” to echo the Sex Pistols’ lyrics. This Kuboraum collection is outstanding, good fun, and one of several series we’ve had an eye on this season. www.kuboraum.com

Bocca Song – FACE A FACE

Bocca Song is a titanium frame by FACE A FACE. The Bocca frames are well known for wearing shoes or boots, and on this occasion the boot design is achieved with a cut-out design. The detail makes a perfect companion to the double upper rim of the front which provides a flattering “airy” look when worn on the face. A truly unique design from Pascal Jaulent. www.faceaface-paris.com

To see more of our frame reviews in 2019, visit www.eyestylist.com/category/reviews/

Ones to watch at 100%, London – 2020 edition

By Clodagh Norton  – The 100% trade fair in London promises a huge display of eyewear collections in January, alongside the latest tech, lens releases and state-of-the-art optical equipment for opticians and optical practices. Their growing “studio area” for independent labels will welcome new additions for the 2020 show – among which the fair organisers highlight Coral Eyewear (www.coraleyewear.com), an eco-friendly frame producer, and Kaleos, the Barcelona brand offering innovative fashion frames at affordable prices. Above: model Pollitt by Kaleos – released this month in new colours. Find out more: www.kaleoscollection.com

Scenario by Ørgreen Optics

Titanium frames remain hugely popular this season and Ørgreen Optics will showcase some of their highly successful minimal modern styles – named after infamous rap tunes. The strong lines and contemporary details of these frames exude originality and freedom of expression. Find out more at www.orgreenoptics.com

Perspective Loop by Gotti Switzerland

Returning to the London show for 2020, Gotti Switzerland is one of the fair’s prestigious luxury exhibitors and a key innovator in eyewear design: their ultralight, minimal Perspective collection was launched in 2017 and has seen some original new editions including the Perspective “Loop” series (2019 launch) with delicate 3D printed matt polyamide rims – a must see at 100%. www.gotti.ch

Bolly Wool by Woow Eyewear

Woow is already a favourite French collection at 100% – much loved by the UK market for its bright quirky designs and creative colour combinations. The latest limited edition was the Bolly Wool capsule, inspired by “Bollywood” with Mandala patterns on temples and spiced-up tonal mixes of cardamom, saffron, mint and red pepper. Frames from the collection can be seen at www.wooweyewear.com

SALT. Optics from California: timeless design, quality construction

SALT. Optics is one of the most distinctive of the US brands attending the 100% fair for 2020. SALT. enjoys a strong relationship with the UK, with the ophthalmic and sun collections available at some of the most unique British independent optical retailers. Their latest designs will go on show at the exhibition, packed with wonderful classic shapes re-interpreted with modern elements and uplifting nature-inspired colours. Find out more: www.saltoptics.com

Kayla by Lara D’

Lara D’ by Lara D’Alpaos comes to London from the Italian spectacle-making region of Belluno. The latest range includes laminated acetate frames characterised by clean, well defined lines and lovely colour combinations that offer a bold and fresh perspective for the New Year. Find our more at www.laradeyewear.com

100% Optical will take place from 25-27th January 2020 at ExCel exhibition centre, London. The event is exclusively for trade and showcases an overview of eyewear, lenses, optical equipment and business services. A selection of independent brands attend the event each year. A sustainability angle has been added to the fair in recent weeks. The organisers have promised to plant a tree in the name of every optical professional who signs up for the show between now and 8th January and who attends the show from 25th to 27th January, “to recognise and do something positive about the climate emergency.”

For more information visit www.100percentoptical.com – This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. All rights reserved.

Pantone colour 2020: Classic Blue

Poised. Self-assured. And elegant in its simplicity. Pantone also describes its colour of the coming year as multi-sensory, suggestive of the sky at dusk and reassuring in its qualities, while encouraging us to look beyond the obvious to expand our thinking.

In eyewear, blue has always held its own, across a spectrum of dark to light tones, from sky to indigo, and turquoise to lapis. Just because the classic blue is back on trend, all blueish hues are likely to see a revival or revamp, through mono, combo and gradient proposals, all of which will have a different style and look for the face. Above: acetate model Brian by Ørgreen Optics. For some of the acetate frames in this new line, colour designer Sahra Lysell says there are as many as three different tones in one single frame. The subtle colour pictured is called ‘Gradient Blue Sand Grey’. www.orgreenoptics.com

Get Hired by Woow Eyewear; a dark translucent blue in an easy mix with a hint of brown and a bright red temple tip

The new Get Hired frame at Woow proposes an artistic mix of tones with a translucent effect in the blue acetate. See more styles at www.wooweyewear.com

Lemon Curd by theo – Layer Cake series – an eletric blue with a dark blue inner rim

The Layer Cake series by theo is inspired by the sweetest desserts you can imagine, from Black Forest gateaux to Coconut Cream. The colour combinations subtly hint at the effect of the layers (as above in solid blue with a dark inner rim on the eye shape) or combine very different tones to ‘really stand out!’ Find out more at www.theo.be. Pantone’s colour of the year 2020 is 10-4052 / Classic Blue. By Clodagh Norton

Reinventing vintage: ‘pince-nez’ inspiration

Art Deco Vintage Oxford: TVR® (True Vintage Revival), Japan

Inspired by the classic pince-nez spectacles from the early days of the Renaissance and the late 1800s, when eyeglasses became a highly popular style statement amongst the bourgeoisie, the two new models from the Japanese independent label TVR® work on transforming much loved antique styling into 21st century wearable design. The frames are made in Sabae, Japan, the heart of eyewear production in the country and a place that is revered for its level of artisan quality, workmanship and traditional handcrafting. Above: The new TVR® 525, a round eye shape available in a selection of colours, including antique gold or silver.

Inspiration: a pince-nez without temples, c late 1800s.

Both TVR® 525 (top) and TVR® 526 are also the brand’s first collection made entirely in pure Japanese SPM. From the frame to the temples and bridge, the exquisite round and Panto shapes are patented in the material for exclusivity. The metal temples are also engraved with intricate gold-filled design akin to original vintage Art Deco patterns, worked upon by master craftsmen with exceptional skill and know-how.

TVR® 525 (round shape) + TVR® 526 (panto shape): inspired by the “Oxford” spectacle style of yesteryear

Developed by Shintaro Kato in 1930 in Japan, SPM is a precious metal alloy. It was a rare commodity at that time, and cherished by Japan’s Showa royal family for its hardiness, resistance and compatibility with human skin. As such, the export of raw SPM material was not permitted at the time. Today, its remarkable characteristics make it popular in dental accessories and tools for plastic surgery, and TVR® is one of few labels who use it with creativity and passion in eyewear. Despite the name, SPM doesn’t contain platinum — instead, it refers to the soft platinum colour after it has been polished. More importantly, the material retains its shine even after a long period of time. The 68-year-old master craftsman Kanamaru Harumi is behind the production of the two new SPM metal frames from TVR® (True Vintage Revival) – Japan. Find out more about the brand TVR® at www.tvropt.com

Innovation 2020: opti Munich, Germany

Must-sees at the Munich fair – a packed fair is coming for January 2020

The Munich fair is expecting a busy turnout at the start of 2020. From emerging labels right through to historic eyewear brands, the showcase of eyewear collections at this important event gives a thorough overview of design developments, shining the spotlight on young innovators, creators as well as a host of high-profile fashion eyewear designers.

One of the standouts every year at opti – for artisan frames – is Res/Rei Italy, a small label with a dedicated following, owing to their creative style and close collaboration with Mazzucchelli which results in some very unique and detailed acetate materials. Their products are excellent with many unique and creative shapes and timeless qualities. We also particularly enjoy their covetable jewellery line – made from the leftover acetates – and offering a very chic and special design, with colours that match up with frames. Above: model Begonia from the nature-inspired Flowers collection at Res/Rei – different acetates combine and overlap with each other like the petals of exotic flowers. The frame is pictured in a pink/light pink colorway matched with plain grey lenses. Find out more at www.resrei.com

Eton Mess by theo – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Belgian design innovators theo have had a particularly spectacular raft of designs launched through 2019, with highlights including their mouth-watering Layer Cake series – featuring titanium plate designs created with two different layers.

At opti, theo will release a completely new “typically theo” eyewear family which they tell us is “warm, soft and comforting yet strong, powerful and unyielding, like….sand.” Check their new website at www.theo.be for more details about their collections.

The sleek Alium Race 2 by FACE A FACE – advanced aluminium eyewear, inspired by the sports aviator shape

The Alium collection is always a must-see at the FACE A FACE stand. This is a very distinctive line with focus on men’s eyewear where a balance of technological excellence and a modern approach to colour offers something quite beautiful and different to wear. See more Alium frames at www.faceaface-paris.com

We Are Annu return to the opti boxes for 2020

We are Annu launched their collection at opti this year (check our Eyestylist opti review 2019 – www.eyestylist.com/2019/02/exceptional-design-at-opti/). We admire both the imaginative concept of paper clip inspired frames and their commitment to innovation and team success. A must-see for opti – find out more at www.weareannu.com

SALT. Optics: designed in California, made in Japan

SALT. Optics travels from California for the opti event, with a collection inspired by nature and produced with rigorous Japanese quality driven techniques. Alongside the main line collection, the brand has launched some must-see fashion-focused collabs, which include SALT. + Second Layer and SALT. + Fred Segal where attention to detail and shared values such as quality materials have resulted in exceptional limited editions. www.saltoptics.com

opti – the international trade show for optics & design, takes place at Fairground Munich from 10th to 12th January, 2020. Registration is now open to trade visitors at www.opti.de. Written by Clodagh Norton – all rights reserved.

Rigards x Uma Wang exclusive collaboration

Sources of inspiration include ancient mosaics, 19th century eyewear + Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

A second collaboration series between artisan fashion designer Uma Wang and the avant-garde eyewear innovators from Hong Kong, Rigards caught the attention of Paris Fashion Week at the fashion designer’s much talked about RTW Spring 2020 catwalk show.

The two designs – UW5 and UW10 – are intentionally closely linked to the previous models, with an aesthetic derived from 19th century eyewear.  Above: backstage at Uma Wang, Paris Fashion Week – collaboration design UW10

UW10 (The Shanghai)

UW10, (a codename for the 10th anniversary of Wang’s brand) was undertaken as a follow-up design to the successful prior collaboration design, the UW1.

Conceived from a thread that runs through Wang’s latest collection (the golden age of Pompeii), Rigards’ Ti Kwa says they “zoomed in on the smallest element of the decorative arts of the Roman Empire, extrapolating it into something uncommonly inventive.”  An eco-friendly bio-acetate is used for the side shield inspired by ancient mosaic glass tiles—” these are as vivid now as they were 2000 years ago, relicts of Pompeii preserved by Vesuvius and the passage of time.”

Rigards x Uma Wang : UW10 (The Shanghai)

A further historic inspiration came from the extraordinary stained glass windows at Barcelona’s Sagrada Família, conceptualized by the great Antoni Gaudi and designed and produced by artist Joan Vila-Grau, a highlight of Kwa’s recent tour to Barcelona.
This frame, nicknamed “The Shanghai”, honors another artistic treasure, particularly dear to Wang. The exquisite Old Shanghai Art Deco stained glass windows are a legacy of the once-flourishing, now forgotten Jesuit Tushanwan Orphanage and its exceptional young foundling apprentices. The frame is produced in five spectacular shades, each one a literal rendering of seeing the world through tinted specs.

Rigards x Uma Wang UW5

With an aesthetic derived from 19th century eyeware, UW5 (The Victorian II) reflects the design vocabulary of UW3, a prior collaboration with a minimal silhouette.
The so called “owl-eye” style has been increased in size and thus works ideally for wider faces. “Building with copper allows the application of our exclusive, proprietary ‘Time Machine’ hand-aging process,” says Ti Kwa. “What emerged wer the most beautiful examples of metal coloring—expressive, painterly patina that further enhance the personality of the frames, as though weathered by the passing decades.”

Rigards x Uma Wang, backstage

Uma Wang’s Pompeii inspired show took place in Paris in September featuring the collaboration frames with Rigards on the catwalk.  For more information about the two brands visit www.rigards.com and www.umawang.com CN

Hot again: bordeaux + burgundy + eggplant

Warm red wine tones, natural eggplant and deep bordeaux have returned to eyewear for the winter season. This flattering array of hues are an elegant lift for winter complexions and cold weather wardrobes, and an easy accompaniment to work or formal attire – and will spruce things up for everyday. Above: Falvin Eyewear, model Equator in matt amethyst with precious rose gold detail. An all-rounder (for work and weekends) where the purple amethyst colour looks beautiful with a touch of gold. An excellent accompaniment to gold jewellery and accessories. www.falvineyewear.com

Kirk and Kirk Centena – model Miriam

Style Miriam, in Bordeaux, is a newly released frame from  the British brand Kirk & Kirk; made in France it is produced in an acrylic material with a translucent quality that catches the light. The frame has been bevelled or “sculpted” on the edges which gives it a notable artisan finish. Find out more about the Centena collection by Jason and Karen Kirk at www.kirkandkirk.com

Wisdom by Caroline Abram

Parisian designer Caroline Abram combines colours in her new bold, feminine collection for winter, which highlights burgundy tones and chic shades of pink, adding hints of indigo, dark ruby and bright raspberry or fuchsia. For ophthalmic model Wisdom, the choices include burgundy/marsala (above) and indigo/purple, with the second colour in the pairing outlining the frame shape and providing definition at the brow. www.carolineabram.com

Lara D – model Kristel – black/bordeaux

Italian eyewear designer Lara D’Alpaos is also creative in her combinations of colours and layering effects. In the new model Kristel from the Unique Collection at Lara D’, she matches black with deep bordeaux as a  couture trim on a sumptuous statement cat’s eye that plays with art nouveau shapes and blocked 3d acetate. Find out more at www.laradeyewear.com

London street style: Winter 19/20

British brands highlighted: Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses, the iconic eyewear company, founded in 1926 and Covrt Project, a streetwear label launched in 2019.

In a London style focus by Eyestylist, we brought together two of the city’s finest street photographers with two British brands that define quality, individuality and eyewear attitude. Above: photographer @boyfromdagbon wears style Winston by Claire Goldsmith at Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses.  https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/winston/ Photography by David Nyanzi (@davidnyanzi) for Eyestylist.com

The new Gopas Winter Sun by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses – @boyfromdagbon photographed by @davidnyanzi

Model Gopas by Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses is ideal for winter light conditions with lightly tinted sun lenses which remove the brightness of interior light or glare from the sun on a winter’s day. The style is derived from an aviator with a flattened top and angular silhouette. For further details or to buy direct: https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/gopas/

Covrt Project: style MP4 – @boyfromdagbon photographed by @davidnyanzi

Covrt Project’s MP4 from the _Mission One Sunglasses Collection defines this new brand’s ambition to balance innovation and a different design style with cutting-edge quality. MP4 is a hexagonal sunglass with a notable high double bridge and acetate bar. The design has undergone fine machine work to create the bridge and detailing and offers high-level functionality and comfort. This new label’s sunwear and accessories have launched at www.covrtproject.com CN

Orris London introduces bio-acetate chains

Leading the way in modern bio-acetate accessories

There’s something about eyewear chains that has captured our attention over the last few years. Big brands and independent designers have re-worked their look in nice materials, and with jewellery details and decorative concepts that have turned them into a desirable must-have statement. Above: Brand new from Oriss London: Spaghetti chain in light Tokyo tortoise made from a biodegradable bio-acetate material

Eyestylist recommendation: the Spaghetti Chain in light Tokyo tortoise, light and beautiful to wear

At Orris London, the chic styling of the chains goes hand in hand with a focus on sustainable design and biodegradable materials. Their two chic new styles – previewed at Premiere Classe in Paris in September – are made of bio-acetate, comprising wood pulp and cotton fibre; the Chunky Chain possesses luxuriously oversized links, while the Spaghetti Glasses Chain is defined by a super-sleek silhouette and a completely new concept in styling – one of our personal favourites of the season.

Bio-acetate: Chunky chain by Orris London

About Orris London / Founder Tara Shen created Orris London after enjoying a career in fashion in Shanghai. A London College of Fashion graduate, Tara’s frequent travels in Europe and Asia inspired her to create beautiful, everyday accessories for modern living, work and travel.

As well as new bio-acetate chain styles, Orris London is committed to using recycled paper instead of virgin paper for stationary and wrapping tissues, as well as unbleached cotton for gift pouches. “We are always looking for ways to improve our eco footprint, and will continue to research new materials and technology for a more sustainable future,” says founder Tara Shen.

Orris London Chains are available at Liberty of London, Le Bon Marché in Paris, and online at www.orris.co.uk CN

Trends: black beauties

It really never went away. But with the resurgence in influences from the 1980s, 90s + 00s, a return of punk, grunge and gothic nuances, and the reemergence of specific iconic items from those decades including the classic black Dr Martens first created in the 1960s, consistently returning as a style piece, black eyewear is on cue to do particularly well in the next weeks and months, in many forms and with the quirkier of statements.

Part and parcel of the genre are the 1990s inspired narrow retro mask sunglasses, much hyped but always evolving thanks to some of the most creative designers in the eyewear business. Above: 90s style reimagined by Factory 900, Japan: model FA-380. Made in Fukui. For details: www.factory900.jp

A monochrome statement – restyling the cat’s eye: Saturn by Essedue, Italy

At Italian artisan label Essedue the inspiration is on the 80s with a nod to David Bowie and a chic “on point” style. Model Saturn, from the PRIMA line, has a strong round lens shape with pointed outer line in black, underscored with a white lower rim. Find out more at https://www.esseduesunglasses.com/product/saturn/

Mykita x Maison Margiela MMRAW016

Made of unpolished acetate, model MMRAW016 – in the Mykita x Maison Margiela collection comes in a Raw Black Havana with Black – illustrating that all types of finish and coloration based on black make up part of the season’s new looks. The panto-shaped optical frame with a raised bar highlights visible traces of the milling process, making each model slightly different from another. For more information: www.mykita.com

We have selected a few examples of the black styles now available for A/W 19/00. For more inspiration visit our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine.

Exclusive: Lien Atelier jewellery chains

At an impromptu meet in Paris, surrounded by luxury chain designs, more akin to jewellery than most collections we’ve come across, film director Jenny Suen tells me she found her first vintage eyewear chain at a flea market in Paris. She has worn it ever since as part of her signature look. “Over the years, so many people asked me where they could buy one,” she explains. “It occurred to me that there were no chains produced in fine materials or designed with the modern woman in mind. So when I finished my last movie, I decided to create my own.” Above: model wearing Coco (18K gold plated with freshwater pearls)

Launched this year, the debut collection is made with 18-carat gold and freshwater pearls, a tribute to the filmmaker’s/designer’s hometown of Hong Kong, a city known as “Pearl of the East.” Offering sleek lines evoking the city’s iconic skyscrapers, and a romantic modern feminine design, the three launch pieces are named after women for whom Suen has special admiration: Marguerite (Duras), Coco (Chanel), and Faye (Wong).

Lien Atelier chains

“Long associated with secretaries, forgetful grandmas, and stuffy librarians, Lien re- imagines the eyewear chain for the modern woman. Once a practical tool to keep optical glasses and sunglasses from the lost and found, the eyewear chain is now a statement-making piece of jewellery for visionaries who imagine, travel, and create….”

Lien Atelier is stocked at Kite Shoreditch (UK), Marc Le Bihan (France) and Kapok Sun Street (Hong Kong). The name “Lien” means “link” in French and Chinese.

About the founder: Jenny Suen is a Hong Kong director. She wrote, produced, and co-directed The White Girl with legendary cinematographer Christopher Doyle. The film stars Joe Odagiri and Angela Yuen in a tropical-noir love story set in the last fishing village of Hong Kong. It screened at festivals worldwide, including a world premiere at at the BFI London Film Festival, was nominated for a NETPAC award at the Taipei Golden Horse Film Festival, and had a special premiere at the Singapore International Film Festival, where it was lauded as an “accomplished first feature from Suen, [heralding] the coming of a new director with the potential to add truly unique offerings to the Hong Kong film canon.” Suen also produced Hong Kong Trilogy, a portrait of the city’s residents in childhood, youth, and old age, which was directed by Doyle. It premiered at the Toronto International Film Festival in 2015. Her next film will be a widely-anticipated Chinese remake of Vera Chytilova’s 1968 Czech New Wave masterpiece Daisies. For more details visit www.lienatelier.com CN

Eyewear directions: Hall of Frames

The popular annual eyewear fair Hall of Frames (Zurich, Switzerland) has issued imagery from its new season shoot which took place on site at Papiersaal over a sunny weekend in September. The frames featured include a mix of advanced materials, from  lightweight titanium to 3d printed designs, with state-of-the-art details, classically inspired shapes and interesting finishes and treatments. Above: Ørgreen Optics Coeda 964, produced in 100% pure titanium and beta-titanium. www.orgreenoptics.com Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Funk eyewear model Authari Raw in a crystal finish / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé

Dieter Funk’s acetate frames, produced in Bavaria, Germany, lean toward classic or timeless design principles, with modern updates taking the form of special colorations and material/tonal combinations. For more details: www.funkbrillen.com

Coblens: Endlos 7 rimless design

The Endlos series by Gmerna-based company Coblens combines titanium temples with modern rimless fronts; the frame front and sides are attached to the lenses with small antique inspired screws with a hexagonal shape. www.coblens.com

Ørgreen Optics: less-is-more in the Quantum collection

Quantum spectacles have an outstanding spherical hinge design and light construction in 3D printed polyamide. The innovative choice of subtle and bright colours is one of many highlights of the Danish brand’s eyewear expertise. www.orgreenoptics.com / Photography by Nina-Maria Glahé for Hall of Frames: https://www.ninamariaglahe.com/All rights reserved.

The next edition of Hall of Frames will take place on 13th and 14th September 2020. For more details, visit www.hallofframes.ch CN

Beyond chic: minimal metals

The metal frames of the moment are a sign that 2020 will be another good one for a more minimal style in eyewear. In Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, the coolest metal frames worn out on the street were neither mini nor oversized, fitting the face to perfection with interesting shapes, angled or geometric forms (octagons and hexagons) in metal tones, and particularly shiny steel, gun and black. Above: fashion influencer Megan Adelaide Schaefer in a black metal frame photographed at Paris Fashion Week by Gennaro D’Elia for Eyestylist.com.

Optical chic: MMCRAFT011 by MYKITA + MAISON MARGIELA: a precious engraving is just visible to the naked eye on the bridge and temples

Very, very narrow rimmed frames – whether sun or optical, as above at Mykita, deliver a sharp yet simple style softened with the subtle vintage inspired engraving, in a successful blend of nostalgic and futuristic elements. www.mykita.com

Milan Fashion Week: stunning 3-sided metal rim frame

Clean, pared back designs with dark grey or black lens for sunglasses provide streamlined modes that are visual but less showy that in previous seasons with attention paid to craftsmanship and finesse for a simple unembellished but elegant way of dressing.

Monarch by L.G.R: a metal front with a striking cat eye form

Cat eye inspired metal shapes, such as Monarch by L.G.R (www.lgrworld.com), are contemporary and striking, balancing glamour and a feminine identity in the shape; the colours of the Monarch are in line with the minimal mood and include matt copper (above) matt black and grey with flat zero base sun lenses made from mineral glass for 100% UV protection and comfort. For more on trending styles, visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/10/paris-fashion-week-ss20/CN

 

Matali Crasset X theo: Dialogues

Creative energies are running particularly high at theo this year, in preparation for 2020. SILMO saw an ingenious spread of collections, among them a fresh collaborative series – the third of its kind for theo – with designer Matali Crasset. ‘Dialogues’ explores conversation and chat, with focus on the two eyewear basics – the lens and whatever goes around it; how the two interact together or relate beyond the classic ‘glasses’ form becomes a feature and a “talking point” – without constraint in the construction or the technical finesse (of course!). Above: Model Debate, in fluo pink, by theo X Matali Crasset

Model Talk – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

“The shape of the lenses is radically different from what Matali has created before” theo eyewear

Expressive, comfortable, surprisingly easy to wear. The result is six titanium styles with Crasset’s “signature” which bring a unique focus to the eyes of the wearer. Single colours emphasise the drama of the openwork and “floating effects”, exploring a bold vision, in theo style – with exquisite tones of fluo pink and orange through to sophisticated monochrome black or white – the two colours that Crasset wears herself.

Model Gossip – © 2018 copyright protected Artworks,
Photography & Graphic Design!

Dialogues by theo X Matali Crasset was launched in Paris in September 2019; the frames will shortly become available in theo opticians worldwide. The collaborators have simultaneously launched ‘Blurred’, an even more ‘rebellious’ limited edition related to the Dialogues designs and created solely in black and white.

Matali Crasset is an industrial designer from France.  She has become known for a refusal of pure shape in her work and develops new typologies articulated around principles such as modularity, appropriation, and flexibility. She has worked on far-reaching projects in different disciplines and with leading brands including Alessi, Nodus and Le Buisson. For more information visit www.theo.be / www.matalicrasset.com CN

Silmo Paris: notes on what’s to come

Silmo is a key event in the optical fair calendar where we discover innovations, new directions and trends in eyewear for the season ahead. This year, the breadth of creative proposals was significant, and attendance by independent labels showed a strong movement toward individual design, high level production and experimental work and expertise in colour, materials and eco-oriented design.

At Silmo, Tavat Eyewear showed their new avant-garde SpamCan Collection, the next step on from SoupCan, inspired by the quadratical shape of the iconic spam can or tin. Made from an impressive material composed of bronze, zinc and nickel, this new departure is highly technical and elaborate, with 27 components and a hinge based on the high-precision Swiss watch crown mechanism. The sunglasses are fitted with melanin sunglass lenses. Find out more at www.tavat-eyewear.com

Metamorphosis by You Mawo

You Mawo’s showpieces at Silmo included the Metamorphosis 3D printed Limited series and a visor design (above) with futuristic 3D side pieces. The main line has also expanded with some strong fashion shapes (cateye model Lyra) and a beautiful round design called Selene. www.youmawo.com

 

SUSTAIN by Monoqool

Monoqool launched the SUSTAIN sunglasses, a first 3d printed design made from castor beans farmed sustainably in India through the Pragati Initiative (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHe1N43IN8o ). The company has entered the Sustain programme supported by the AM-Hub organisation in Denmark with the goal of helping a selected number of small/medium size Danish companies to develop sustainable manufacturing via 3D print technology. www.monoqool.com

Passion for purple at Kirk & Kirk

Kirk & Kirk have done much to promote the benefits of colourful eyewear proposals from the UK, and continue to put out glorious colorations, in both their Centena and Kaleidscope collections, with emphasis on new tones of blue, pink and mauve. www.kirkandkirk.com

ROLF Spectacles: Titanium Skyline – advanced tech + crafting

The Skyline collection at ROLF Spectacles is exceptional in its avantgarde designs in 3D printed titanium. The new styles have stunning combinations of smooth and textured ‘volcanic-like’ surfaces as well as offering a lightweight, easy-to-wear eyewear solution – putting this line in a category of its own. Image above: Photographer: Clemens Ascher http://www.clemensascher.com and clothes by Mühlmann https://www.muehlmann.eu  For more information about ROLF, visit www.rolfspectacles.com

VAERK no 104 in Champagne

New brands were plentiful at Silmo, the best ones focusing on advanced technology and technical know-how. VAERK Copenhagen puts the emphasis on beautiful engineering, tech and Danish design traditions. In collaboration with the renowned Danish industrial design duo Harrit-Sørensen, this brand has developed an innovative hinge concept that not only constitutes high level precision but also an aesthetically appealing link between the frame front and temple. www.vaerkcopenhagen.com

Covrt Project: high-tech urban design / made in Italy

In a completely different departure for street style aficionados, London-based designer and creative director Marcello Martino launched Covrt Project in the “start-up” area of the Silmo fair. This bold Italian made collection includes 7 sunglass styles with advanced tech features focused on enhanced comfort, durability and individual design. The collection is accompanied by unique accessories: find out more at  https://covrtproject.com.

SILMO Paris will take place from 2nd to 5th October 2020 at Paris Nord Villepinte. For more information visit www.silmoparis.com Eyestylist will report on more trends and new updates following SILMO Paris in the weeks ahead. This feature was written by Clodagh Norton. Please seek permission for reprints. All rights reserved.

Rigards for UJOH: Paris launch

Ti Kwa’s avant-garde eyewear label Rigards always has something special to show at Paris Fashion Week and SILMO at this time of year – and for 2019 it’s a very special cat eye inspired by nature.

Collaborating with UJOH, Mitsuru Nishizaki’s award-winning womenswear line, model RG0123UJOH+ builds upon the traditional winged silhouette, with its upswept double rims, one made of ultralight aluminum-magnesium and the other of surgical-steel. The semi-stacked construction and negative-space cut away creates an illusion that the inner rims are floating over the face.

The frame’s aesthetic pays special homage to dragonflies and damselflies, insects which the designer has studied with a keen eye. Despite their simple origin from “incomplete” metamorphoses and fragile wings of gossamer, they have come to symbolize beauty, ferocity, and purity of habitat, in almost every part of the world.

A second model – RG0123UJOH – was created alongside this masterpiece. This style is described as “a little more subtle” without the statement-making cut-out (and thus the colour contrast), yet still offering a resolutely distinctive and individual alternative for the less-audacious wearer.

Both styles are released in six colours, one of the highlights of which is Red—nicknamed ‘Akatombo’ (Red Dragonfly), a nod to the iconic creatures of Japanese nostalgia and song. Find out more by visiting Rigards at SILMO or Paris Fashion Week, or go to www.rigards.com – for previous features on Rigards via Eyestylist visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2019/08/the-viridi-anne-x-rigards-glasses-with-clip/  CN

 

l.a. Eyeworks 40th anniversary celebrations

Forty years ago this month, Gai Gherardi and Barbara McReynolds opened an optical shop on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles – l.a. Eyeworks. Four decades later, the pioneering efforts and energy of Gherardi and McReynolds have catapulted l.a. Eyeworks into an international and influential house of eyewear design.

l.a. Eyeworks 40th anniversary placard designed by artist Nina Palomba

The anniversary year kicks off with a window campaign that will adorn the facades of more than eighty optical retailers in seven countries. Two signboards feature custom graphic designs with the messages: ‘Raise your Glasses’ and ‘Uncensored Visions since 1979’ floating above the brand’s logo. Created by L.A. based artist Nina Palomba, the design is one of numerous multidisciplinary artists and inspiring personalities with whom l.a. Eyeworks has partnered for creative marketing and photos during forty years. For the Fall 2019 portrait campaign, l.a. Eyeworks is working with three visionary photographers who will creatively express Gherardi and McReynolds’s philosophy, cementing their inspiration: “the ever-changing diverse landscape of faces.” Among the brands most famous catchphrases is: ‘A face is like a work of art. It deserves a great frame.’

Portrait styled by Shirley Kurata and photographed by Mimi Haddon

In all their eyewear designs, Gherardi and McReynolds display an innate passion for colour and shape, which has enamoured opticians worldwide throughout the years. Deirdre McNally at Optica Dublin noted: “We truly admire and have fallen in love all over again with l.a. Eyeworks. They have a magic to understand eyewear.” The l.a. Eyeworks innovative magic continues to expand with exemplary designs that manifest originality, diligence and dedication, as well as passion and perseverance, that the founders have infused into their iconic brand. Congratulations to l.a. Eyeworks on this memorable occasion of their 40th Anniversary. www.laeyeworks.com JG

Paris ready

With just 3 days to go before the big event in Paris, designers look forward to unveiling creative designs for the forthcoming season, with graphic presentations and valuable insights into the evolution of their collections and brand stories. Silmo Paris brings together an extraordinarily wide-ranging selection of companies related to the optical field, and for those who visit as buyers, an inspirational and diverse choice of design-focused eyewear from which to select for their customers.

Newcomers’ ranges are much sought after at the fair as are the independent collections with innovative flair and precise design motivations. Alf Lunettes – from France – exhibiting for the second time, will launch a carefully presented line of handmade sunglasses and optical frames which are made in Normandy in exclusive Japanese acetates. They add beautiful, comfortable mineral photochromic lenses “to make a highly technical product” and create a universe inspired by the elegance of the 1920s through to the ’50s, anchored by a precise and heart-felt respect for quality and clean, sober lines. https://lunettes-alf.com

Ynot : Oliver Goldsmith Wintersun

‘Wintersun’ was originally devised by Oliver Goldsmith back in 1965 and was a collection intended to be worn ‘during the winter months’ or through the months when dark-lensed sunglasses were not needed. The collection showcases some of the most historic shapes of the famous Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses collection such as the much favored Ynot (above), round chic Oops and the multi-sided Yatton sunglasses. www.olivergoldsmith.com

New frame Fado by LAFONT Paris: “40 years of Lafont, 40 years of colour”

The historic family eyewear company, Lafont Paris celebrates its 40th birthday at Silmo this year.  A special 40th anniversary collector’s edition box will feature iconic frames from the Lafont Archives, reimagined in a contemporary context. A nod to the 1980s, the decade when the company started will include new interpretations of the classic “Lafont” P3 and elegant cat-eyes with chic Parisian flair. A must-see at the Paris fair this year. www.lafont.com

MOREL 80027A feature Divel sun lenses with a golden internal non-reflective coating

French eyewear company Morel inaugurates an eponymous new collection of sunglasses which brings together a design that is both aesthetic and engineered, in complementary styles. A sneak peak of MOREL 80027A sums up the chic and super trendy flavour. www.morel-france.com

SILMO – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 27th to 30th September 2019 in Paris, at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details visit www.silmoparis.com. SILMO is a trade only event.

HOF Zurich: Vital vibes & spirited smiles

Glorious Indian Summer weather graced the Hall of Frames Zurich exhibition, which highlighted exceptional presentations of exclusive, premium quality designs, created by independent eyewear designers and brands. Opticians from Switzerland, Germany and Austria enjoyed experiencing the two-day event. Above image: Designers attending HOF Zurich – from the left – included Matze Marpe; Birgitte Falvin; Sven Götti; and Nirvan Javan

HOF Zurich organiser Nathanaël Wenger; model wearing Orgreen frames

“We had excellent feedback from the exhibitors, and visitors were really interested in individual brands, and took the time to get to know them,” said organiser Nathanaël Wenger, “and there were many interesting conversations exchanged between exhibitors and visitors – plus a lot of laughter and smiles! The atmosphere was very good, relaxed and positive.”

Mara and Manuel Iten owners and creators at Fassungswerk

Beautifully crafted, individualistic frames were on display from independent innovators and brands noted for their charismatic approach to eyewear. Creative 3-D printed frames; superbly formulated wooden designs; modern minimalism in titanium; sleek acetate compositions in marvellous colours; material mixtures united for imaginative and original designs; and eco-friendly orientated frames resonated through the collections from Götti Switzerland; Orgreen; Blackfin; Rolf Spectacles; Falvin; Andy Wolf; Matze Marpe; Nirvan Javan; Any Di Munich; Fassungswerk; Caroline Abram; Neubau: Modo; Randolph USA and Tom Davies; among others.

Imaginative new eyeglass covers from Any Di Munich

“We are pleased with the results,” noted Wenger, “and Hall of Frames covers a clear need in the eyewear sector, and will probably increase in importance in the future. We are considering organising another show in the spring of 2020 or 2021.” More details at www.hallofframes.ch JG

Opticians from Switzerland, Austria and Germany visited HOF Zurich

All photos exclusively for HOF Zurich by Nina-Marie Glahé All Rights Reserved www.ninamariaglahe.com

LFW 09/19: street style

Amidst Extinction Rebellion environmental protests, demonstrations against leather in fashion, LFW photographers and the so-called style influencers, the crowds heading to the shows or lingering outside provide a fashion preview for autumn/winter 19 street style in the British capital. For eyewear, the variety was a talking point with a hugely eclectic mix of frames and sunglasses, from poorly styled to beautifully unique – with some very obvious over worn brand-emblazoned sunnies as well as a penchant for vintage, and mega trends of 2019  – mini Matrix shapes, the cateye (strong also in NYC) or the oversized visor and mask.

This weekend, some of the coolest looks in the city at the venues – both for glasses and sunglasses – showed there is growing confidence in understated, simple or pared back design – especially where there is an architectural detail or retro 80s/90s influenced silhouette. Above: Fashion artist @tayisiya_ph in all black, paired with a statement wide brim hat and structured timeless rectangular specs.

Our review of some of the eyewear spotted on London’s streets and at LFW will be published this coming week – follow us on Instagram @eyestylistmagazine.  Top image: London Fashion Week photography by Cesare Riccardi, exclusively for Eyestylist.com. CN

 

Crystal chic: three of the best by SALT. Optics

To a well trained eye, crystal tones (in eyewear) can vary dramatically. The most refined offer a delicate elegance due to the quality of the cellulose acetate, and the precision in tumbling and hand finishing to create the desired rich lustre or shine.

Consistent in their choice of strong and flexible Japanese cellulose acetate, SALT. Optics, the Californian eyewear brand works with a wide yet subtle palette of colours and superb clear crystal and smokey tints. The brand plays with the trending tinted crystal tones which are flattering to the complexion – often using colorations and a mix of tones inspired by the natural world, the sea, the earth and the sky. Above: model Sophia by SALT. Optics, in Smokey Grey with CR39 Denim Gradient polarized lenses. The finely crafted metal core is visible inside the clear acetate, a design touch that revisits the crafted finish of vintage eyewear.

Gerry by SALT. Optics: clear frames continue to be very popular

This season, the models in the C2-19 collection include a range of finely crafted ophthalmic frames with natural tones of toasted toffee and brushed honey gold through to the sophisticated translucent smoke grey of model Gerry, pictured above.

Andy by SALT. Optics – in smoke grey / tea – G-15 polarized lenses

One of the classic tones of sunglass model Andy, combines a delicate smoke grey and a bolder coloration in tea on the temples. A unisex panto design, this statement frame highlights the contrast of the metal hard ware – with plaques and pins, designed to last – lending a classic hallmark of quality to each design.

About SALT. Optics – SALT. is a premium eyewear brand from coastal California that is committed to quality frame construction and timeless design, inspired by effortless beauty. Combining high-grade materials with third generation Japanese craftsmanship, SALT. makes timeless eyewear designed for anyone who appreciates natural simplicity and lasting design. www.saltoptics.com CN