Design & Inspiration

Silmo 2021: an Eyestylist Exclusive

EYESTYLIST : “A memorable, intimate showcase – with plenty of fresh products and innovative design brands” Written by Clodagh Norton

Last week’s Silmo 2021 welcomed exhibitors and visitors to their traditional venue in Paris with a particular atmosphere after the COVID hiatus and a period which until this point had remained difficult through most of 2021, particularly for business colleagues to come together. The show offered an intimate, meaningful experience for many people who we met, and a long awaited chance to engage with visitors and designers and view their innovations and new collections. The fair saw a good representation of brands from different countries including specialist collections from Italy (highlights included Delirious and L.G.R), Spain (Nina Mur and Sea2see), Austria (Rolf Spectacles), UK (Covrt Project) and Germany (Mykita and Leinz). France was well represented. Above: a new collection with elegant thick uniquely styled acetate shapes and exciting colour launched by VUE DC, the French artisan eyewear company, a longstanding exhibitor at the SILMO event

Timeless style: Lewis by SALT. Optics (USA) in matt smoke grey

A mix of bold and striking design trends alongside classic timeless collections with a love for minimalist details were the two overriding key directions throughout the fair. The colour palette was in sync with these two directions, either strong and surprising with new and innovative combination tones and exciting neons, or on the other hand based on a nature-inspired palette with many intriguing finishes and patterns. Inspiration was extensive and ingenious, and designers we spoke to often cited nature, natural phenomena such as a sunset or a sunrise, and art and architecture as their most important influences in the last months.

FACE A FACE Witty1: a collection bursting with stunning neon tones

Creative acetate collections were particularly colourful and explored new combinations and graduated colorations, while the strong presence of minimalist metal and 3d printed proposals showed that this is a time where there is room for all extremes – big and small proportions, very fine or very thick structures, cool and warm colour and smooth and rough details.

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SILMO Paris Nord Villepinte 24 - 27 Sept 2021
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Handmade in Normandy – “The Sunrise” by Struktur – references to the sun and playful details inspired by the sun rising or setting were noted by Eyestylist at the SILMO fair

Sustainable design was talked about with frequency and many existing brands and new sustainable ones are taking  some kind of steps to be more eco-conscious in how they work or produce products. Designers are paying attention to processes, materials and production to move away from the fast fashion culture and into an era where there is greater respect for lasting quality and frames created as design pieces “to be kept for life”.

From the UK: Covrt Project – model AS3: a strong, innovative, high quality approach to sunglass design

Now that an international fair has been possible in Europe in 2021, the industry looks forward to further exchanges and in person events in the months to come. SILMO 2022 dates are confirmed for 23rd to 26th September 2022 (Paris Nord Villepinte). To find out more about SILMO, visit www.silmoparis.com

Eyestylist.com will report on more of the new innovations and trends in detail in the weeks and months ahead. This article was written by Eyestylist.com. Please seek permission if you wish to reprint our articles and viewpoints.

Sculpt: Masahiromaruyama at Silmo

Studies in imperfection – inspired by the sculptural process

A new line by Japanese design brand Masahiromaruyama – which previewed for the first time at Silmo 2021 – takes inspiration from sculpture, and the process of making a three dimensional art work. From the tool marks of a chisel on stone, to the wire framework built for the process, the frames in the collection have required detailed craftsmanship and expertise to create the exquisite artisan finish with texture and sculptural definition of the materials and surfaces.

Masahiromaruyama: the new collection features nine models in titanium and acetate – handmade in Japan

The titanium designs underwent a carefully developed special step of chiselling on the surfaces to replicate the effects of a sculpted work of art. The metal structures are designed without the usual focus on symmetry and with the particular signature style of the designer whose attention to detail never faulters.  For the acetate frames, a scraping technique was used to create the intriguing finish of the designs.

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Masahiromaruyama – handcrafted in titanium

With nine models in the collection, the titanium styles come in a colour palette of four tones – black, white and two new bronze colours – the colours should be expected to change over time. “We encourage wearers to embrace the changes happening on the frame as part of the process,” explains the designer. The acetate designs include MM-0066 and 0069 in delicate tones of black, white or clear, charcoal, brown and grey. There is also a style included in beige havana that is made from a Mazzucchelli’s M49 bioplastic and this design is created as a limited edition of 200 pieces with part of the sales being donated to the Japanese Red Cross. The new collection will be in specialist stores this season. To find out more visit http://masahiromaruyama.com

Paris rendez-vous: SILMO 2021

Silmo 2021 takes place this weekend after much anticipation and planning for all those involved. The international event will bring together the European optical industry for the first time since the start of the global pandemic – and promises an “ultra-positive” experience with upbeat energy, emotion and atmosphere as colleagues meet again after a long period of uncertainty and difficulties to meet with friends and clients as they once would. Well over 500 brands from 32 countries have booked to exhibit from 24th to 27th September, and the venue of the Parc des Expositions – Paris Nord Villepinte – will be fully prepared in compliance with the regulations in force in France to make the event safe (face coverings and provision of a health pass will be required.) Above: The French design label JF REY from Marseille will bring its colorful and creative high-end frames to Paris this week. www.jfrey.fr

High-tech, sustainable 3d printing : Rolf Substance – model Amur 02 is a featured frame in the Silmo D’Or nominations – ‘Technological Innovation in Eyewear’ category

From Austria, Rolf Spectacles will show the impressive 3d-printed plant-based line SUBSTANCE at Silmo 2021, with the model Amur 02 nominated for a prestigious Silmo D’Or Award in the Technological Innovations category. The frames and patented hinge in this line are produced in the plant-based material that is flexible, natural and skin friendly. The line has already been successfully received by the market and is a multiple award-winning collection already, with a European Green Award and IDA design award achieved so far to date. www.rolf-spectacles.com

Model Lou by VUE DC in crystal light grey and champagne

French artisan collections are a highlight of the fair at the annual event. This year, they include the creative label, VUE DC who will present a series of enchanting designs in acetate in the exclusive RENEW FW2021 collection. The geometric model Lou is a strong signature piece in the line with rough cut angles and new colours of light grey and champagne. VUE DC is known for its French handmade quality and artistic design style. Founders Chris Mascre and Yoma (Yolande de Clercq) devote particular attention to the excellence of the materials and the traditional realisation of the frames in their partners’ factory in Oyonnax. www.vuedc.com

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SILMO Paris Nord Villepinte 24 - 27 Sept 2021
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TARIAN: Smiley and Ice Cream – resolutely positive in a bright, rainbow palette

Parisian designer Jeremy Tarian shares previews of his new collection showing at Silmo this weekend. Among the several ‘thematic’ series are the fun models Smiley and Ice Cream in the Play collection, a joyful, surprising line with a very creative and striking look. For each model, the acetate section of the frames is laser cut to reveal a contrast in colour and a new take on the traditional eyewear ‘aesthetic’ code.

Eyestylist looks forward to attending this long-awaited international reunion in Paris and we wish all our Eyestylist friends and sponsors as well as visitors to the fair a very successful and inspiring weekend! For more details: www.silmoparis.com

RIGARDS: Silmo 2021

RG2046WD nominated for Silmo D’Or : homage to architectural shapes and lines

A new design from the avantgarde eyewear designer Ti Kwa of RIGARDS captures a moment in time and a personal fascination for architectural contrasts. The design is directly inspired by a pandemic home improvement project and combines four unique materials with focus on sustainability, longevity and aesthetic beauty: the solid wood salvaged from high-end furniture timber contrasts with elements in aluminum-magnesium, beta-titanium and stainless steel. Above: Rigards RG2046WD, a new work with a finely structured frame and circular lens

Each element of the frame is painstakingly thought out to balance materials, design details and function – like the planning and construction of a unique architect designed building. The frame has adjustable beta-titanium arms hollowed on the underside to reduce the weight.

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RIGARDS RG2046WD

Wood end-tips, which are gently contoured, have been tested on diverse individuals, and provide a comfortable, ergonomic fit while the lightweight structure (a weight of just 12.8 grams)  makes the design suitable as a sun or optical style. Unusually, the nose pads extend upwards on either side of the inner sections of the eye shapes, adding elegance and comfort where the frame rests on the face.

This new sophisticated design from RIGARDS is shortlisted for a Silmo D’Or award in the Sunglasses “Eyewear Designer” category. The winners of the awards will be announced in Paris on Saturday 25th September 2021 (www.silmoparis.com). For more information about RIGARDS visit www.rigards.com. Click on the link for more about RIGARDS on Eyestylist: https://www.eyestylist.com/2021/07/rigards-x-uma-wang-for-2021/

Silmo Paris: FACE A FACE preview

Neon brights ‘light up’ colours of the night sky in the new collection by FACE A FACE

Playing with the effects of light – through the day – and how they influence colour. The FACE A FACE designers have introduced special effects in striking combination colours, imagining how light transverses each model in cut-outs and contrasts as well as unique shapes. The frames are complex and beautifully finished in state-of-the-art materials, an expression of boldness with experimental flair.

“Our work themes are drawn from aesthetic details in our first sketches or models made by our model maker. Some common details catch our attention, and through a discussion process a story appears,” explained the designers, when asked to explain how the idea came about. “When you have this feeling that a collection theme is blooming, it’s a very exciting moment.”  Above: model Zenit by FACE A FACE – a statement design in the collection ‘Colour as Light’

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Neonn by FACE A FACE: a Spring neon green contrasts with a midnight blue

They add, “For this new optical collection, the very first samples of the Neonn model featured a very new fluo green on the sides. The “halos” of colour created the luminous effect of an eclipse.”

The expressive Zenit by FACE A FACE: the colour highlight on the top represents the light effect of the midday sun
“We feel that people need to feel positive: after a period of doubt, there is always renewal. For this, the use of colours is a fantastic ‘soft medicine’.” FACE A FACE design team
Sharp and assertive: Gordon by FACE A FACE

Model Gordon, a design with masculine lines inspired by industrial machining, plays with dual tones and matt and shiny surfaces. The combination of bright aniseed yellow on opaque grey contrasts with transparent grey temples – is the ultimate trio of trendy hues while the layering effect is graphic and sculptural. FACE A FACE will exhibit at the Paris trade fair SILMO this week. Find out more about the collection at www.faceaface-paris.comEyestylist spoke with Paris design team Claire Ferreira, Marianne Dezes and Robin Apprioual of FACE A FACE.