Sustainable design

Clara Besnard upcycled design: Morph alpha

The Morph alpha design won the Silmo d’Or – Prix Special du Jury – earlier this season – the design is remarkable for its unusual mix of avant-garde and retro influences  

Clara Besnard, the Brussels-based artist and designer, designed a unique tentacle-like creation born from the archive of eyewear brand Parasite and vintage acetate frames. The design won the Prix Special du Jury at Silmo this year, a prize which is given to recognise a particularly outstanding and innovative design.

The frame is made entirely of spare parts and old frames sourced from the workshops of Parasite and the Brussels-based vintage optical shop, Bidules (www.bidules.be). The artist and designer handcrafted the design as a system of tentacles, with its main roots formed from a Parasite MORPH V01 (2003) and secondary roots made of acetate temples and fronts from the 1970s and 80s.

Clara Besnard x Bidules x Parasite – MORPH alpha – recycled and recyclable – the design was presented at SILMO 2024

About Clara Besnard: A graduate from La Cambre’s Master’s program in accessory design, French designer Clara Besnard is an accessories designer who makes eyewear and jewellery creations from upcycled materials. Her newest collection – Blooming of a Face – was selected as a finalist for the Hyères International Festival of Fashion. To find out more about her work and to shop her handmade jewellery, visit www.clarabesnard.com

Emilia and Erik Lindmark, EOE Eyewear

Emilia and Erik Lindmark, co-founders of EOE Eyewear, have a pioneering approach to sustainable eyewear and how it is made. They are also the creative innovators behind the sustainable initiative, REGRIND, a project focusing on reducing waste in the industry by recycling old, used, or discarded eyewear and turning it into high-quality raw materials for new products. We caught up with them this month to find out about their latest work….and a new artistic collection from EOE featuring sustainably sourced reindeer antler

EOE Eyewear is one of the first brand’s to have taken a serious interest in sustainability. Would you agree? Absolutely. At EOE Eyewear, sustainability has been a core value since the very beginning. We’re proud to be one of the pioneers in the eyewear industry when it comes to integrating environmentally responsible practices into our production and distribution processes. Already in 2013, as Mazzucchelli released M49, our premiere collection with eco-acetate was released. While many brands are starting to embrace sustainability, I would say that EOE Eyewear has been at the forefront, focusing on materials like biodegradable acetate and recycled metals, as well as adopting circular business models (REGRIND) to reduce waste, both from production spill and from post consumer eyewear in a lot of different ways. We believe that sustainability is not just a trend, but a fundamental shift in the way fashion, along with all other industries, should be approached. We’re very committed to continuing this journey and inspiring others in the industry to follow suit. Above: Emilia and Erik Lindmark of EOE Eyewear – they are also the co-founders of REGRIND

What does the season’s EOE collection look like and can you highlight two of your favourite frames and explain the concept? This season, our collection is called the Antler Collection, and it draws inspiration from the soft, earthy hues of autumn and the majestic Swedish reindeer. Our designer Camilla Lindberg has created a range of frames that reflect the warmth and depth of autumn tones—think rich reds, burnt oranges, and earthy browns. A unique feature of this collection is the use of sustainably sourced reindeer antler, which is hand-carved by local artisan Ulf Avander, who has been honing his craft since the 1970s. The antlers are naturally shed each year, making them an eco-friendly material that can be thoughtfully repurposed. Besides this, we worked with incredible AI artist Sevda Albers for this campaign, creating images that fully encapsulates what we wanted to portray.

One of our personal favourites from this collection is the Saadek Horn—a beautifully rounded, soft oval frame that’s elegantly adorned with a piece of reindeer antler. The natural texture of the antler complements the smooth lines of the frame, creating a harmonious balance between nature and design.

Saadek Horn by EOE Eyewear – in the new Antler collection – natural reindeer antler is a feature of the collection

Another standout for me is the Lovikka Twist. The Lovikka is a classic EOE design that’s been reimagined over the seasons, and in this collection, it takes on a fresh, modern twist. It’s the perfect example of how timeless design can evolve, while still staying true to its roots.

You have always studied particular links between the landscapes of Northern Sweden and how those references can inform your design details and colour palette. How are you evolving this beautiful story? Yes, it’s true that we have always been fascinated by the unique landscapes of Northern Sweden and how they can inspire and enrich our designs. For me, it’s not just about reflecting the physical appearance of the landscape, but capturing its essence—the raw, untouched beauty and the subtle nuances found in nature that me, Erik, and our family have had the pleasure of experiencing up in Ammarnäs, and basically everywhere in (Swedish) Lapland.

In our most recent collections, we’ve continued to explore this connection through both colour palettes and form. We have drawn inspiration from everything, from the soft light of the mountains to the northern sky’s colours at different times of day, to the contrast between the cold tones of winter and the deep greenery of summer months. We’ve also been working with materials that reflect nature’s textures—such as frosty surfaces imagined through matt acetate, or the organic shapes of trees and precious stones – for example, in our Stone Collection!

To further evolve our brand, we’re always looking at ways to integrate sustainability and local material choices in our collections, so that our designs not only tell a story, but also have a deeper connection to the Northern landscape. We want each eyewear piece to feel like part of a larger narrative, where nature is not just an inspiration, but also a foundation for creating something timeless, and, most importantly, sustainable.

What has EOE got in the pipeline for 2025? EOE has an exciting year ahead for 2025, with a continued commitment to innovation, sustainability, and pushing the boundaries of eyewear design. Regarding shows, we have actually consciously taken a step back to instead focus on the continued expansion of our brand, and exciting new updates such as our new website and the upcoming collections.

Our upcoming SS25 collection is called “Midnight Sun”, and even though I won’t share more than that at the moment, I can promise that it will be exciting and a true reflection of the very special light that occurs in the north of Sweden.

We’re also focusing on enhancing our brand experience in Stockholm. The flagship store on Mäster Samuelsgatan 10 is more than just a retail space; it’s a reflection of our brand’s ethos—a place where design, craftsmanship, and the spirit of Northern Sweden come together. In 2025, (our 15th Anniversary), we’ll be introducing new in-store experiences, further include limited-edition collections and exclusive collaborations that will further elevate the EOE identity.

We’re also continuing to work on expanding our sustainability initiatives, from exploring new eco-friendly materials to enhancing our production processes. Our goal is to ensure that EOE not only delivers exceptional design but also a positive environmental impact, staying true to our roots and vision of creating eyewear that’s both beautiful and responsible. For example, exciting things are in the pipeline for REGRIND.

Atlas Bare by EOE Eyewear

As well as EOE, you are the co-founders of REGRIND. For anyone who hasn’t come across REGRIND as yet, can you explain the concept and outline your current activities? Of course! REGRIND is a project that we’re incredibly passionate about. It’s a sustainable initiative focused on reducing waste in the eyewear industry by recycling old, used, or discarded eyewear and turning it into high-quality raw materials for new products. The concept is simple but impactful: by collecting eyewear that would otherwise end up in landfills and giving it a second life, we can significantly reduce the environmental footprint of our industry. The REGRIND acetate has proven to lower CO2 emissions by up to 35% when compared to the use of virgin acetate, according to a LCA analysis.

At REGRIND, we work with optical retailers, manufacturers, and consumers to collect old eyewear, which we then process and transform into circular, usable acetate sheets. The circular acetate can then be used to create new eyewear, ensuring that nothing goes to waste.

It’s all about closing the loop and fostering a more circular economy within the eyewear sector, and we hope to be able to expand our factories and further develop the REGRIND technology in order to make it more accessible worldwide. For example, the REGRIND acetate was utilized by Balenciaga in 2024, and we look forward to aiding other brands in their journey to becoming more sustainable.

REGRIND is really about creating a more sustainable future for eyewear, and it’s a perfect complement to the work we’re doing with EOE Eyewear. Both initiatives are part of our broader mission to lead by example, and to drive a positive change in the eyewear industry.

As creative innovators in the eyewear sector, how do you feel the industry is progressing in general as regards sustainable practices? What do you think needs to happen next? As a company deeply committed to innovation and sustainability, we’ve seen the eyewear industry making significant strides in recent years. More and more brands are recognizing the importance of adopting sustainable practices, whether it’s through using eco-friendly materials, reducing waste, or improving the lifecycle of their products. Consumers are increasingly conscious of their environmental impact, and as a result, sustainability has moved from being a trend to a fundamental expectation. At EOE Eyewear, we’re proud to be a trailblazer of this movement, prioritizing the use of recycled and renewable materials, as well as designing products that are durable and timeless, (yet fashion forward), reducing the need for a constant replacement.

However, I do think the industry still has a long way to go. One area that could benefit from further innovation is the circularity of eyewear products. The infrastructure for this kind of closed-loop system is still underdeveloped, and there’s an opportunity for brands, manufacturers, and retailers to collaborate and create more effective recycling programs, and to adapt to use our REGRIND technology in order to ensure that discarded post consumer eyewear and production-spill becomes circular.

Additionally, there’s potential for more transparency around the environmental impact of virgin production processes, from sourcing materials to manufacturing across the entire sector. As we move forward, it’s essential that the industry continues to push for eco-friendly solutions while maintaining quality and functionality.

The next step, I believe, is not just innovation in materials, but also a shift towards a more systemic approach to sustainability—one that looks at the entire product lifecycle, from design and production to use and disposal or re-use. The more that all brands can educate consumers on how to care for, recycle, and repurpose their eyewear, the more we’ll collectively reduce our environmental footprint. It’s about creating a culture where sustainability is integrated into every step of the process, from ideation to delivery, and ultimately, to the customer’s experience.

www.eoe-eyewear.com  / www.regrind.se

REGRIND produce recycled eyewear material for fashion brands

This season, selected eyewear models at BALENCIAGA are made from old frames through the unique patented Swedish innovation process, REGRIND by EOE Eyewear

The independent sustainable eyewear materials innovators, REGRIND have announced that the latest BALENCIAGA eyewear collection features a model in several colours made from the recycled material that they have developed over the last few years. REGRIND utilizes old discarded eyewear and repurposes it to make a new attractive circular acetate material suitable for new designs.

The recycling rate of the old eyewear is an impressive 98%, and the resulting bio acetate material has multiple properties in terms of its quality, flexibility and durability, as well as endless creative possibilities for colour and pattern. Each frame produced through this process has up to 35% lower CO2 emissions compared to a standard frame according to a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). Above: REGRIND recycled material samples – the colours and patterns of the material have been developed for high-quality collections

Balenciaga Neo Round, produced in circular Regrind™ acetate. The acetate used for the Balenciaga Neo Round was chosen from REGRIND’s in-house selection of acetate; the material can also be customised for the client – image courtesy of REGRIND

Furthermore, the REGRIND team has taken care to ensure that the electricity used in the regrinding process is certified to come from renewable sources. The REGRIND™ process is ISCC plus certified and measured by the ISO14040 method to follow a fair and scientific Life Cycle Analysis.

REGRIND by EOE Eyewear – a company founded in Swedish Lapland – is one of the leading materials innovators in Europe, working for change towards a more sustainable eyewear industry, where design and quality together, come first. To find out more about the REGRIND process visit https://www.eyestylist.com/2022/06/regrind-an-innovative-approach-to-circular-design/ For further information visit www.regrind.se

Cabrio Eyewear: the Satin Collection

Made by the eyewear innovators HOET in Belgium, the latest products in the Cabrio Collection have a satin finish, inspired by the softness and translucency of elegant fabrics

A new 3D printed collection by HOET – produced in Belgium – features a satin-inspired finish like that of different fabrics including satin and toile. The eyewear is made from liquid resin which the design company says offers a new opportunity in eyewear design.

Cabrio Eyewear: the frame fronts in the Satin Collection are 3D printed – the material has a soft texture and translucent finish

“Sustainability and eco-friendly production remain key as this new materials causes no material waste. The liquid resin hardens through photopolymerisation, leaving a hard structure which is tactile and soft to the touch…”  HOET Eyewear

The Satin Collection by Cabrio is a new launch for HOET Eyewear for Spring/Summer 2024. To find out more about the Cabrio brand, and how the collection uses new materials and innovative techniques to create unique aesthetics in eyewear, visit https://cabrio-eyewear.be/

Independent eyewear brand Rolf receives recognition for sustainable product

The Wire collection is the Austrian brand’s latest design-led series – it has won the Mido award in the sunglasses category – the collection offers a beautiful sophisticated attention to style as well as function

Rolf has received the CSE Certified Sustainable Eyewear – Sunglasses Europe Category – at the Mido eyewear show in Milan this weekend, a further accolade that brings much well-deserved recognition from the optical segment for the brand’s sustainable innovation and design. Their new Wire collection, which is 3D printed using rapidly renewable castor beans, offers plant-based optical and sunglass models which are light, robust and durable – with a researched qualitative contemporary design.

The frames in the Wire collection are characterised by coloured threads to create an artistic accent. They feature timeless shapes and a stylish finish, while also making a clear statement about preserving our planet and evolving materials in eyewear to meet this need.

The unique glasses from Rolf – whether they’re made out of wood, stone, or the new sustainable material – can be purchased at selected optical retailers and in the two flagship stores in Vienna and Reutte, Austria. www.rolf-spectacles.com