2011

Shane Baum

Leisure Society Designer Inspired by Life

June 2011 A conversation with Shane Baum is always a rewarding experience.  The American  designer of supremely elegant, luxurious Leisure Society, has astute viewpoints on eyewear, design and business that he shares with Eyestylist.

Design philosophy: “I don’t rely on the eyewear industry for inspiration, but search in other creatively driven industries.  Furniture design, watch manufacturers and electronic products often inspire me.  I also feel it is important to be honest with yourself.  As a ‘designer’, you must reflect and disassociate yourself from your finished drawings, and judge them with harsh cynicism.  My best design decisions often involve a trash can and fresh sheets of paper.”

Preferred materials: “I like working in gold-plated titanium.  It is such a luxurious material and completely inert.  It lasts forever.  The inherent flexibility of this combination of materials allows one to engrave it, shape it, mould it and texture it in a very detailed manor that permits limitless possibilities. Platinum would be interesting too.  We are working with Tigers Eye, Ruthenium and Buffalo Horn for Spring 2012. History has shown that luxurious materials hold their value better over time.  This is the essence of Leisure Society’s ethos of “Heirloom Design.”

Creative inspiration: “I maintain a ‘child like’ enthusiasm for designing eyewear. The eyewear industry is unique: part fashion; part engineering; and part medical device.  For me, the key to success as a company and as a designer is to create proprietary brand attributes that are distinctly my own, and quality attributes that only reveal themselves systematically over time. It is simply a matter of remaining true to my personal paradigm of open mindedness whilst remaining true to our corporate commitment of excellence and self-involvement.”

The future: “I believe the world is entering a period of reverse globalization  We are noticing a trend towards locally made products crafted by classically trained artisans.  The preservation of cultural traditions is increasingly important to consumers, especially our youth.  This demographic wants meat from a butcher, watches from a watchmaker, and shoes from a cobbler.  For eyewear, a brand focused on quality and innovation should enjoy ‘just rewards’.”

Leisure Society designs are available internationally in high fashion shops and eyewear boutiques.  www.leisure-society.com JG

 

Special edition for Sonar Festival, Barcelona

ETNIA Barcelona

4th June 2011 The Catalan brand Etnia has produced this limited edition exclusively for the music event Sonar this year (which takes place on 16th to 18th June). The model is available to those attending the daytime events, who take part in the brand’s Facebook promotion – there are 300 being given away each day. From what we hear and from the pictures we’ve seen, it looks like a very cool sunglass style in fluorescent fuchsia and white acetate – it features Zeiss lenses in four colours of which the blue gradient is our favourite choice, and clever, understated detailing….a very hip sun style for Summer 2011, but unfortunately not available in the shops. CN

www.etniabarcelona.com

For more on Sonar 2011, visit www.sonar.es

 

 

1851

Graz

From “down under” in Australia, Graz Mulcahy creates edgy, distinctive eyewear.  It’s always an adventure to view his collections at the eyewear shows.  He believes in statement frames – designs that are bold and distinguished. Experimenting with the unusual is something that he particularly enjoys – such as the sunglasses shown above in matte acetate.  The frame is handmade, blasted with a very fine sand to create a non-reflective surface.  After the blasting, the matt is left untreated, which allows the frame to take on its own character.  With wear, the frame becomes slightly darker in different areas, which Graz likens to what happens to jeans.  This frame has a feeling of strength and substance, yet with its smooth matte finish, possesses subtle and understated beauty. For more information, visit www.grazstudio.com JG

 

02 Isolde 1300

Ralph Vaessen

Unusual materials to be found in eyewear include the unexpected use of snakeskin, favoured by Dutch designer Ralph Vaessen.  I spotted these sunglasses at jlc opticien on chic and fashionable Rue de Bac in Paris, and liked the oversized shape, strong brow and linear movement. The fit is superb too.  Vaessen’s entry into eyewear came about as a fluke – he couldn’t find frames that he really liked, and an optician suggested that Vaessen design his own frames.  The optician knew a small atelier that could make them. Already passionate about music, art, fashion and architecture, Vaessen has found his true metier in creating luxurious, unique eyewear, and was nominated for a Silmo D’Or in 2010. More details at www.ralphvaessen.com and www. jlcopticien.com JG

No Mercy 740

Intrigue NY

This is a real New York collection – spirited, sharp and sleek – created by a real New Yorker, Jeff Royce.  I haven’t seen this collection yet, but a chat with Jeff and studying photos confirm his goal to design eyewear with flair, precision and superb craftsmanship. Royce works in beautiful Italian and Japanese acetates.  No Mercy, shown above, illustrates acetate’s flexibility, with the front colour contrast giving a robust quality to the modern retro shape. This frame is also available in black and tortoise – stunning!  Intrigue NY frames are not yet available in Europe, but we hope they will be soon. www.intrigueny.com JG