Design & Inspiration

Eyewear trends: layer up!

Layering up is not just for winter apparel…layered effects in eyewear are popular again….

Layer upon layer of design details and fine materials, worked in beautiful ways! One of the most eye-catching trends of the moment in eyewear involves exceptional know-how and craft finesse, to create depth and unique twists in the structure of the frame. At Silmo in September, a variety of fine independent eyewear collections featured a particular example of such detailing, in different materials with all kinds of interesting and sometimes dramatic effects. Playing with layers for the exciting structures that can be explored, or using them to create a special mood or character in the frame, the effect of this design work on the face will reveal individuality and a nuanced expression, calling attention to the wearer’s unique personality and individual traits. Above: Layer 2 by FACE A FACE is one of the new highlights in the French collection this season. Two shapes are layered on top of one another, hence the name, Layer. The playful way in which this is achieved is further explored through the combination of the two colours which, layered together, reveal a third. The finely sculpted details of the wings add a further touch of subtle sophistication. www.faceaface-paris.com

PRIS by Veronika Wildgruber: a brand new release at Silmo last month

At Veronika Wildgruber, structure and architectural influences are a common thread from one collection to the next. The new model Pris has an aluminium bar running across the top as a defining structural element, reminiscent of the stark, functional lines characteristic of Brutalist architecture. The smooth acetate surface contrasts sharply with the rigid aluminium layer on top, emphasising the striking character of these glasses. The round lenses and horizontal bar mirror the Brutalist principles of exposed materials and structural elements. www.veronikawildgruber.com

Andy Wolf 4820

The “shape in shape in shape” concept has fascinated the design team at Andy Wolf for some time. Model 4820 is a medium-sized feminine combination frame combining three different shapes in a wonderfully layered design using acetate in clear and patterned tones with a fine metal wire. www.andy-wolf.com

Lonzo by l.a.Eyeworks

Model Lonzo by l.a.Eyeworks exemplifies a contemporary frame aesthetic that offers over-sized proportions refined by precise bevels that reveal layers of colour – the technical virtuosity permits a beautiful colour contrast with interesting light effects. www.laeyeworks.com

{REWIND} – ‘Happy Birthday Strass’

REWIND’s Happy Birthday style with diamanté is particular in its shaping at the upper rim where a transparent blue section appears to overlap a darker blue with a very pretty, feminine lightness. In this way, the diamanté crystals are highlighted in the top section where they have been meticulously hand-set to add a luxurious sparkle. www.rewindeyewear.com

Jenny by Morel – made in France

The audacious new Jenny optical style at the French eyewear compan yMorel features a layered effect – in a light transparent acetate – over the top rim of the frame front. By using a transparent material with a tiny dotted pattern over the intensely coloured red, the design takes on a more individualistic and artsy feel and the play of light around the design is elevated to create something eye-catching and different for the eyes. www.morel-france.com

Bastian by Jisco Eyewear

The acetate style Bastian by Spanish eyewear company Jisco explores a particularly popular look where the acetate layers are built up in different colours. In this green/black variation, both the front and the temples feature the layered look for a bold statement structure that is notably influenced by vintage icons of the past. www.jiscoeyewear.com

Organisme 3 by Parasite Eyewear

The layering effects are also observed in some metal collections. The designers at Parasite Eyewear have release some creative examples in their Organisme models which have steel structures decorated with a layer of colour in a bright organic formation across the front and the sides of the designs – appearing as if painted on the metal by hand. www.parasite-eyewear.com

IOKO Studio / One Of A Kind: Sunset & Sunrise

The design eyewear brand – IOKO Studio’s One Of A Kind (Bratislava, Slovakia), a project created by the founder of one of Europe’s most unique and forward-thinking optical stores, features the actress Antonie Formanová wearing the spectacular, one-of-a-kind eyewear styles

A series of stunning fashion images has been released by IOKO Studio – the eyewear studio and creators of One Of A Kind, conceived and created by Dana Prekopová and Erika Remencová. The images feature the new collection Sunset & Sunrise, a bold and confident concept made exclusively by hand each one as a unique piece, in a given colour and design. Above: Antonie Formanová wears IOKO Studio – Formanová is a Czech actress who starred in Dukla 61.

IOKO Studio – One Of A Kind

“As the morning dawn changes into the evening sunset, so do the glasses in the Sunrise and Sunset collection.The new emerges, the old disappears….the birth of one inspired the design of the next…..” IOKO STUDIO

IOKO Studio – One Of A Kind

Each shape in the collection is embellished with handmade decorative elements to create new contours and a sculptural relief. The colour palette is decadent and intense, with jewel-like tones of red and deep purple adding intrigue and artistic flair. The eyewear collection by IOKO Studio is available at IOKO Optica in Bratislava. The frames are designed with love and produced with the precision of jewellery making techniques. Find out more at www.ioko.sk/en/ Read our interview with Dana on Eyestylist: https://www.eyestylist.com/2022/11/10-questions-dana-prekopova-ioko-optika/

Rimless Eyewear: Blackfin Aero Loop

Blackfin has introduced a rimless collection with titanium micro-hinge

A new rimless collection by Blackfin incorporates a titanium micro-hinge inspired by rivets used in the aeronautical industry. The hinge is hidden behind a patented lens fastener and dual circular lens holes, not visible from the side. This new design eliminates any protrusion on the front, making the eyeglasses almost disappear on the face while delivering a contemporary aesthetic suited to every day wear. Underlying the apparent simplicity is an extremely complex development process in which every detail undergoes meticulous research. The product was shortlisted in the Silmo D’Or awards 2024 in the Technological Innovation in Eyewear category. Above: the Aero Loop designs are light and barely-there

Blackfin Aero Loop: lightweight, durable and strong

The Blackfin Aero Loop collection has been designed to allow for a high level of personalization of the product, offering 40 different lens shapes, two bridge sizes and four temple designs available in 40 colourways. Some colours are applied by hand with artisan precision, others are created via Nano-Plating technology, while anodization lends bright, polished hues. Thanks to their adjustability, the soft medical-grade silicone LitePads, and the easy-to-adapt inclination and length of the temples, the Aero Loop styles offer a high level of wearability and a comfortable fit for all faces. For more information visit www.blackfin.eu

Silmo 2024: energy, bold design, and intriguing innovation

Despite economic challenges around the world, the Silmo eyewear experience of 2024 felt optimistic, creative and full of energy, with a huge mash up of design innovations, tech ideas and start-ups and small artisan collections showing alongside iconic and well-established luxury and fashion eyewear brands 

A remarkable level of fine-tuning of the details in the luxury collections. A positively energetic and experimental buzz from young and new designers from different sides of the globe. And a particularly strong representation of tech companies and smart glasses products. These were just some of the notable areas which were highlighted at the Silmo 2024 event.

During the next months we will explore particular colour stories, innovations and new design directions we observed at the Paris show. Overall, the event was hugely popular amongst those who exhibited and those attending, thanks to the ever evolving breadth of design, craft expertise, material innovation and technology relating to eyewear on show there, alongside the incredible experiences and business opportunities for the industry’s leading and emerging designers to connect with influential buyers from around the world, collaborating to shape the future. Above: The Italian designer Cleto Munari showed his eponymous eyewear collection at Silmo for the second time – pictured, Ave Del Paraiso, produced from a 14mm thick acetate plate, the frame is created using two techniques for carving the material. The new releases on the Cleto Munari stand also included ‘Drop Drop Drop’, an acetate capsule with bold colours and 3-dimensional shapes featuring models Victor and Ernest and a handmade precious metal collection with exquisite signature details and jewellery embellishments.

Lafont Paris – model Rimini 4071

Many new models were released in the collection at Lafont Paris at Silmo: as well as a second edition frame produced in collaboration with Maison Sekimoto – named “Hanabi”, Lafont Paris also won a Silmo D’Or in the Children’s category, for a frame called Roudoudou, designed specifically for premature infants. The frame has been developed to meet the optical and morphological needs of this group and offers a bespoke size and geometry.

Lafont Paris – Roudoudou won the Silmo D’Or in the children’s category

The Lafont Paris collection also saw the addition of frames which served up gorgeous colour palettes, fresh gradients and a wide selection of vintage and modern inspiration for silhouettes, material combinations and exclusive details. www.lafont.com

“Brimming with bravado”: the graphic Duffle frame by l.a.Eyeworks – in carmine – a shade or red that is popular this season – as worn by Gai Gherardi at the event

l.a. Eyeworks showed a new collection popping with colour, vintage flavours and design energy. They described the temple seen here on their model Duffle as an extravagant nod to l.a.Eyeworks’ signature frog toe temple tip. The custom inlay appears on a variety of models in a contrast colour to the main frame. Model Duffle – in acetate with stainless steel temples – is one of those designs, like sister frame Totes – that feels chunky and out there for the season whilst being suitably balanced, lightweight and comfortable for all-day-long wear – the designer, Gai Gherardi was wearing it herself! The collection also featured faceted acetate designs with gorgeous gradient tones with eccentric names such as “bambi” and “rosewater brownie”. www.laeyeworks.com

Even Realities: “smarter smart glasses” – the content floats in your field of vision

Even Realities showed their smart glasses concept at Silmo 2024 for the first time. The brand has recently launched the G1 Digital Glasses which integrate advanced digital features into everyday frames designed to fit the face and feel comfortable and easy on the face. With the G1, they aimed to bridge the gap between smart glasses that are bulky and over-featured and AI companions that lack practical functionality for everyday use. We trialled the product and felt excited both by the ease of the functionality and the opportunities it will open in many different work places and specific activities. Find out more in our feature prior to Silmo: https://www.eyestylist.com/2024/07/smart-glasses-even-realities-and-g1-digital-panto-glasses/

Apex at MOVITRA

MOVITRA continues to deliver high-tech luxury in a collection that takes the combination of quality, comfort and design excellence in each product very seriously. The new collection which features Apex, a cutting-edge series in titanium, is particularly eye-catching for the technical details developed in each product and the unerring attention to detail, from the Motus patented closing system to small design features such as a two-piece titanium bridge with a polished and brushed finish. www.movitra.it

Rewind – original patterned acetates are a special feature in this Italian collection

In the start-up area, we were able to talk to the creatives at several emerging and new eyewear brands including Rewind (Italy – www.rewindeyewear.com), Otro Eyewear (Brazil – www.otro.com.br), Maggio Eyewear (France – www.maggiojulia.com), Maison Lune (France – https://www.maison-lune.fr) and BookArt (New York/Japan – https://bookartjewelry-int.com). All these examples show a dedication to quality craftsmanship and design individuality and we were taken by their use of colour and enthusiasm for expressive and individualistic design work.

BookArt – Cry Cry Gold was nominated for a Silmo D’Or: the jewellery style frame is delicate and beautifully crafted

We met Yuki Gotanda, the designer behind BookArt, the Japanese brand producing their jewellery oriented frames in Sabae (Japan). Each glass crystal teardrop is hand-set with the same precision as a diamond. Gotanda is a former graphic designer and launched BookArt in 2017. BookArt also showed us the frame called Fringe which features elegant gold chain tassels on the end tips.

The international optics and eyewear trade fair, Silmo Paris will take place from 26th to 29th September in 2025. Find more trends information and brand highlights from the show on Eyestylist in the weeks ahead! www.silmoparis.com

This feature was written by Clodagh Norton at Eyestylist.com. Copyright applies.

Sagaboi catwalk features Peoples from Barbados capsule

Linda Farrow x Peoples from Barbados capsule worn by models on Sagaboi catwalk

At London Fashion Week, the SAGABOI catwalk provided Caribbean inspiration in “Out and Bad”, a new collection which among other themes drew energy from the vibrant traditions of carnival. The models wore Peoples from Barbados capsule sunglasses created as a capsule with Linda Farrow, and a perfect compliment with its Bajan origins. Peoples from Barbados was founded in Barbados by optometrist and Eye Q Stylist store owner, Alicia Hartman.  Above: Sagaboi ‘Out and Bad’ September 2024 at London Fashion Week – photography credit / Michael Mapp

Sagaboi SS25 – photography by Jack Hall BFA.COM

The Linda Farrow x Peoples from Barbados Edition is a limited run of just 150 custom-made sunglasses/blue light blocking glasses available in three beautiful Bajan inspired colours of sorrel caramel and emerald green. All images by kind permission of Sagaboi. For more information visit https://peoplesfrombarbados.com