The Austrian brand – Rolf Spectacles – who have pioneered the production of fine wood and horn spectacles made through a precise balance of technical innovation and time-honored artisan techniques, since 2009, is adding a new material to its collections in 2020.
The label, which has also developed its own unique collections using stone and 3d printed titanium is now adding a line made from a natural plant-based material taken from a species of the Euphorbiaceae family (commonly known as spurge), with exciting sustainable credentials.
“The plants are grown in tropical climates without any kind of genetic engineering, they don’t compete with food crops, and they can grow very tall, very quickly: where a spruce or a beech will only grow a few centimeters taller every year, this remarkable plant will shoot up six metres in just four months, and it comes back every year,” explains company founder and visionary Roland Wolf. “This makes the new material more sustainable and kinder to the environment than ever – and the perfect foundation upon which to build a new collection of glasses…”
The new 3d printed Substance collection by Rolf comprises 23 flexible natural skin-friendly frame styles in 6 colours and makes a highlight of the refined design typical of a Austrian-made Rolf product, as well as the unique Flexlock hinge. Find out more about Substance at www.rolf-spectacles.com
Amsterdam-based blogger, model and influencer Linda Tol lives life in fashion’s fast lane. Her own-brand eyewear collection is the embodiment of her fresh, elegant, unpretentious personal style. Eyestylist spoke to her in an exclusive interview during lockdown.
What is your earliest memory of fashion? I grew up in a village nearby Amsterdam. Together with my younger sister. I grew up with fashion. My mum has a deep interest in it and I guess it rubbed off on me. Growing up, she loved to dress us kids for school. It looked like it was our birthday every day.
When did you begin your journey / career in the fashion industry? Before I started blogging I worked in Fashion PR. Many stylists and journalists supported me to do something with my style. A blog was the perfect way to share my love, passion and inspiration for beauty and fashion. After 3 years working for the PR firm, I decided to start my own company and LindaTol was born.
What are your thoughts on the “influencer” industry and social media platforms as we know them today? Social networks are the biggest source of inspiration. Billions of us are using social media platforms every day. We use it for every part of our lives. In our personal relationships, for entertainment, at work and in our studies. Social media changed the way we communicate. It’s changing the way we do business, the way we are governed, and the way we live in society. Social media is real. Influencers share their personal life, experiences and stories. And people relate to influencers.
When you’re looking for a particular item; clothing, bags, accessories – what, for you, are the 3 most important attributes to the item / the brand it is produced by? 1/I invest in timeless pieces: wardrobe investments 2/Quality over quantity 3/I ask if it is environmentally friendly production?
Does quality / lasting wear for you have an influence on purchasing a product? Yes. For me it’s really important to invest in a piece. I only buy products that are timeless and the quality is really important to me. Quality means it lasts longer. It has a different value for me.
What is your stance on environmentalism and sustainability in the fashion industry and in day to day life? Shop less, Collect better – be mindful of your consumer habits – shop Brands That Prioritize Sustainability.
Do you think there’s a similar need for accessories to become sustainable? Not really a need. But the idea behind TOL Eyewear is to invest in a timeless pair of sunglasses. A pair of sunglasses you buy and wear for many years. It’s a luxury product.
How would you describe your own style / and how has it developed over time? Style is all about personality; it’s an expression of your individuality, so if you don’t feel comfortable in what you’re wearing, then it won’t feel authentic. My style is quite diverse, but it’s always really recognizably me. When I was younger, I used to try a little bit too hard – I’d wear too many crazy prints or statement pieces all at once – but in recent years my look has become more sophisticated. Now, a typical outfit for me is a pair of boyfriend jeans and a T-shirt, but I’ll finish it off with some super-girly slingbacks. Comfort is the most important factor for me when I’m piecing together a look, so I live in denim.
If you could choose one only one category of accessory to wear, what would the category be and why? Hard to choose between bags and sunglasses. I love bags. In the same way that different types of bags define your personality, the way you carry them defines it too. It’s practical. I love sunglasses because they are the finishing touch of the look. They make me feel strong and powerful. I also wear sunglasses in winter. It’s an attitude. They make people feel confident.
When did TOL Eyewear present itself as a potential business prospect? From the moment we proposed the project to the Italian factory who produces TOL Eyewear. They believed in the project from the very beginning.
What are your plans for this collection? We have so many ideas in mind. Our dream is to become a successful global brand.
If any, what is the mission statement / brand motto for TOL and it’s future customers? TOL is an Amsterdam based design studio with an international approach to eyewear and fashion that is overseen and embodied by myself and Marieke Meulendijks. All our work derives from a deep interest in fashion, contemporary art, interiors, architecture and people. Above all, every story and every project begins with the creation of a new emotion.
The brand’s mission is to reach a fusion between creativity, technical innovation and traditional craftsmanship. This allows them to offer eyewear characterised by high quality materials and the typical excellence of Italian manufacturing. This combination of innovation and tradition is the principle that inspires us to create and design for TOL.
On a personal level, what is your feeling towards this current period we’re living through – a pandemic, self isolation…how do you keep busy and mindful? It was not easy in the beginning. Staying positive is very important. I try to create a routine for myself. I wake up around the same time every day. I get dressed and get my make-up done every day. I plan meetings (via Zoom) and try to create as much content as I can for my personal account and TOL Eyewear.
What would be your advice to young fashion creatives looking to work in the fashion industry? Stay true to yourself and ignore the critics.
Find out more at www.lindatol.com.and @lindatol_ on Instagram. To purchase the sunglasses visit @toleyewear (available from July). Interview by Victoria G. L. Brunton for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.
A vision of sun-drenched island vistas and fabulous colours, Peoples from Barbados eyewear by Alicia Hartman returns to inspire uplifting reflections for the future with new photography by Jaryd Niles-Morris, and Barbadian model Jalicia Nightengale.
Accompanying the imagery, and for the first time, the brand is publishing poetic words dedicated to the precious community from where it draws hope and inspiration – by the travelling street poet, Kevin Devaney.
“If the future that you are gazing towards is as bright as the Bajan sun, remember, it is a star and you are too, Peoples from Barbados” Kevin Devaney for PFB Eyewear
Peoples from Bardados eyewear lives and breathes the beauty, colour and spirit of the Bardados community. Produced exclusively in Japan, the eyewear collection highlights an extraordinary versatility in design style. The collection has grown to a complete set of 10 models, incorporating styles for men and women. PFB13, worn by Nightengale in the new shoot, is created in a pastel shade of mysterious purple pink acetate with glamorous grey undertones, finished with a high-end Japanese polishing technique to reveal a graduated shiny to matt finish across the surface. https://peoplesfrombarbados.com Find your PFB style at Alicia Hartman’s online store: www.eyeqstylistopticians.com
In the third and final recommendation in our series on creativity on Instagram this week, meet Chiara Veronese @centro_ottico_bastia, a young Italian optician and designer with an eye for style and curated imagery.
Chiara Veronese’s IG profile @centro_ottico_bastia is colourful, personal and full of fun and glamour. With a background in art and graphic design, Veronese took over her father’s optical store in 2016, and has a special passion for independent creative design. “After graduating from the University of the Arts London in 2011 I studied to be an optician in Italy,” she told Eyestylist. ” Today I’m the owner, the manager, the creative, the cleaner: I’m a one-woman band!”
With posts that visualise the beautiful chic style of the shop, as well as Chiara’s personal edit of eyewear, design, fashion and accessories, a few very elegant selfies are also highlighted as part of the styling of this page, demonstrating the unique qualities of the frames in store.
“My IG inspiration is always connected with independent brands and creative individuals,” she says. “I follow many accounts on travel, design and ceramics, and I have a soft spot for Japanese photography and architecture. I’m very attracted to one-off projects, collaborations and hybrid design (useful vs beautiful).”
Asked how she’s faired in lockdown, she says she has tried to see it as a chance to explore creativity within the limits of her home. “For IG I’ve been using only what is immediately available and mundane, everyday objects and settings. I also had the opportunity to experiment with my first, rudimentary posts via IGTV.” Via Veneto 54, Loc. Bastia, 35030 Rovolon PD, Italy. Find out more about Centro Ottico Bastia at the new website:www.centrootticobastia.it
In our special series about creativity on Instagram, we introduce @nina_more_eyewear, a new Insta page by the Spanish design brand Nina Mûr designed to “connect, support and share” across the optical/optician community.
The Spanish label, already present on Instagram with their brand page @nina_mur_eyewear, have launched a second page @nina_more_eyewear, with design and lifestyle inspiration specifically for the optical community. “We wanted to share our knowledge, inspiration and philosophy with passionate opticians,” Lorena Serrano, Co-founder and Creative Director told Eyestylist. “To inspire and empower them to improve their sales – and also to feel good. On this page we highlight sustainability, slow luxury, arts & crafts, design and innovation.”
The page curates a wide variety of imagery about design, display, creative composition, colour and eyewear inspiration based on the brand’s main values but translating them into ideas and tips about window dressing, set design and decoration, marketing concepts and elegant minimal ideas for presentation.
“We see this side of Nina as a new window on our work – beyond glasses,” explains Lorena. “It talks about our philosophy and our soul and our activities beyond eyewear as a creative agency. Here you will find more variety of content and more value, giving ‘more’ and sharing ‘more’.”
Nina Mûr is a refined wooden eyewear label – crated by Davide Fichera and Lorena Serrano and based in Madrid. The label focuses on independent production, high quality and sustainabile materials, innovation and craft.Visit @nina_more_eyewear by @nina_mur_eyewear on Instagram – and find out more at www.ninamur.com
A special series of three posts about creativity on Instagram highlighting three individuals with an eye for social media and a unique design-focused content style
Bold compositions. Real people. Creative style and energy. Eyewear designer Jean Philippe Joly runs his own Instagram page @jeanphilippejolysunglasses with the hashtag #passionisborn. The photos are for the most part by the designer himself who tells personal stories of “travels, meeting people, art, furniture and new eyewear designs.” Above: “Be ready for the summer: model Seducteur by Jean Philippe Joly – available as a sunglass or ophthalmic model.”
Joly is a believer in capturing the attention of a real audience on Instagram with similar values and interests in design and life who appreciate his photographs and the stories he tells.
His time during lockdown, he says, has been dedicated to the creation of new designs for Autumn/Winter 20/21 which will preview at Silmo in October. He has worked on all the prototypes himself by hand from scratch in his workshop so they can be ready to go to into a limited edition production at the factory in the next weeks. “I want it to be perfect!”
Originally from Paris, Jean Philippe Joly is a passionate traveller, designer, and eyewear + design connoisseur. Made exclusively in Italy, his frames are graphic and characterful with strong shapes and colours that highlight their unique artisan characteristics. With just over 12 timeless styles, each piece in the collection has an expressive design and colour palette which makes it immediately recognisable as a JPJ design. Find out more at www.jeanphilippejoly.com
With the expected long-term need for personal face protection in our daily lives against Covid-19 post lockdown, designer Joe Doucet has created a face shield with integrated sunglass lenses and arms – the first of its kind. The studio is currently seeking a brand or eyewear manufacturing partner to produce the unique futuristic design in a collaborative project.
Studies have shown that face shields or visors are much more effective than surgical style face masks, but in their current basic format they are uncomfortable and awkward. Doucet’s design aims to make wearing face protection “more practical and less alien and intrusive on the wearer”, integrating a fashion-forward ‘futuristic’ look more akin to trends in contemporary apparel and fashion in general. The design proposed with polycarbonate shield integrates an anti-fog coating to ensure clear vision when in use.
The design studio hopes that by improving the basic face shield design to a level that creates desirability in the product as an easy-to-wear fashion accessory aligned with sunwear, greater uptake for personal protection can be further encouraged in the weeks and months once lockdown is eased.
Based in New York, Joe Doucet is an award-winning designer, entrepreneur and inventor. After graduating from the Art Center College of Design, Doucet began exporting his vision into product, furniture, environment, and technology to find solutions for daily and societal challenges through design. His work deftly hybridizes function and visual appeal while conveying layers of meaning and message. Doucet believes that design and, more importantly, a designer’s thought process can play a larger role in innovation and problem solving, as well as aesthetics. He currently holds numerous patents for his designs and inventions. Find our more about his work at www.joedoucet.com Photography supplied by kind permission of Joe Doucet. – CN
Putting a maximalist style at the heart of her work, eyewear designer Anna-Karin Karlsson has created a world of eyewear apart from the everyday. Decoration such as carved flowers, exotic wildlife and fantastical bugs and ‘claws’ have featured as embellishments for fronts, temples and bridges in works that highlight extravagant materials (24k gold, white gold and titanium) and immaculate execution.
This season, the collection unfolds with new dramatic sun entries, ‘Shady Luv’ and ‘Too Handsome’ defined by sophisticated forms with minute engraving work and jewellery settings. In 100% Japanese titanium, Shady Luv is hand-set with Swarovski crystals. Each colorway is available in just 100 limited edition pieces. The style is a reminder of the oversized mask shapes of the 00s with single visor lens. Above: Shady Luv, pictured in white gold with Zeiss mirrored lens.
Style “Too Handsome” combines Japanese acetate and titanium with attention to metal detailing and the engraving of AKK lettering. Another Limited edition entry, each colour of this design is produced in less than 50 pieces.
Aviator sunglasses continue to earn their iconic status. They lift and compliment most outfits with extraordinary versatility, a style staple through seasons and activities, from beach to business. The original teardrop silhouette is adaptable for many face shapes – just as much for women as men; it’s recommended if you have an oval, heart or square shaped face, but for the most part, with so many versions and sizes, there’s one for us all.
Independent eyewear labels are exploring the lightweight qualities of the design whilst make subtle changes to aesthetic details, eye shapes, lens colours or technical features to bring the styles a new-found directional elegance.
Above: Berlin-based designer Veronika Wildgruber’s new collection is inspired by geometry, the future and architecture. The Kent frame in the Interspace collection explores a completely new shaping of the lower section of the double bridge. Photo by @kerstinzupan. For more details about designer Veronika Wildgruger visit www.eyewear.veronikawildgruber.com
The LINDBERG 8209 is part of the Air Titanium line with full-rim made entirely of ultralight titanium wire. The frame is vintage inspired and timeless yet fully on trend with a choice of colourful Zeiss sun lenses, ranging from traditional to bold and bright. www.LINDBERG.com
Gotti Switzerland’s new entries for Summer include the very finely structured model Delon, a large shape for men, with a slightly angled rim below the top bridge line. The minimal design is achievable through the expert application of ultralight Japanese titanium. www.gotti.ch
We have a soft spot for oversized sunglasses, particularly the round ones and the styles that Jackie O’ made her own. The shape is here again – of course it is! – worn in a variety of ways, by all ages, with quirky individuality or classic poise, a celebration of timelessness and characterful ‘iconic’ style. Above: huge round, idiosyncratic and ageless – vintage-infused sunglasses with pale lenses – shielding the face while the eyes are still visible. Photo by Gennaro D’Elia (Paris Fashion Week) exclusively for Eyestylist.com
From Oliver Goldsmith’s wonderful series of iconic designs (there are several Jackie O’ styles here, depending on your face shape), the bold 001 is produced in classic acetate materials in perfectly chic colorations which include black leopard, military white or black powder (above). The frame, which is ideal for an average width face, is available to purchase online at www.olivergoldsmith.com
For a statement tortoise model, Christian Roth revives the look in the graceful model Jackie 60, one of a line of distinctive designs in the iconic collection, combining the styling so popular with the former first lady and the exacting contemporary finish of a technically robust Japanese made frame. Find out more at https://christianroth.com
#THEGOODQUARANTINE Collection by @nina_mur_eyewear – Spanish label is producing its next edition in virtual collaboration with opticians through the lockdown
Nina Mûr founders Lorena Serrano and Davide Fichera have launched a sustainable design project during the coronavirus quarantine – out of their home in Madrid – to share the creation of their next edition of eyewear with opticians. Their aim is to produce something both creative and unique at this unprecedented time through virtual connection with friends and optical partners.
The design duo plans to create five unique collaborative styles in the Quarantine collection – underlining the sustainable concept and production typical of the Nina Mûr brand while bringing together a community of like-minded people to create a human connection and shared ‘creative’ experience beyond the isolation and lonely existence of lockdown. Above: Lorena working from home on lockdown in Madrid (April 2020) – pictured with son Luca
“We will create these glasses with our usual sustainable materials, principally wood, and our usual local production in Madrid,” explains Serrano. “We have asked friends and optician contacts taking part to provide a drawing or a photo of a drawing as a starting point. We have people working on this project around the world, in Japan, France, Italy and the USA. Once the designs are in they will then vote themselves on their favourite designs – we propose to create the most ‘popular’ five styles through this process, once the voting is completed the week after next.”
#TheGoodQuarantine Collection by @nina_mur_eyewear + @nina_more_eyewear with be available for purchase in May 2020. Watch this space to see the collection soon! For more information visitwww.ninamur.com
Since 1926, fans of the Oliver Goldsmith label have been drawn to the pure heritage style and signature design flair of this British brand which continues under the direction of Claire Goldsmith, the great granddaughter of the founder. Claire took the business under her wing in 2005, leaving a steady regular job to reignite the tremendous legacy and style of her family’s historic company.
In a new video, Claire talks about the origins of the business, the release of Oliver Goldsmith “sunspecs” at Fortnum & Mason in Picadilly in London in the late 1930s, and the appearance of OG in Vogue in 1942 – the first acknowledgment by a fashion magazine of the potential of spectacles as a statement style accessory.
Above: The iconic OG style Yatton – first created in London in 1964 – has been re-released in the gorgeous colour combination described as White Christmas Maze. The soft geometric shaping of the design provides the iconic dramatic glamour typical of the Oliver Goldsmith label. https://www.olivergoldsmith.com/product/yatton/
The video (above) – ‘An introduction to Oliver Goldsmith by ClaireGoldsmith’ – includes rare footage and imagery of early OG designs, and the most famous people who have worn the glasses through the last decades…personalities who include musicians, actors, actresses and members of the royal family whose eyewear was a natural enhancement to their style and personality.
Today, the Spring season brings new colourful releases to the iconic OG collection which preserves its history and artisan quality, in designs reignited through the label’s extensive and carefully preserved archives – and the intricate skill and technological benefits of modern eyewear crafting. In the Decades collection, this thick rimmed round sunglass style pays homage to the 1930s, and the Hollywood stars of the era. The frame is handmade in Japan from acetate and comes with 2-base flat 100% UVA/UVB lenses with backside AR coating.
One of the most famous styles in the Oliver Goldsmith repertoire, the Manhattan sunglasses – represent classical statement style with the perfect timeless balance of shape and colour. As well as the iconic dark and light tortoise versions, the Manhattan sunglasses are made in contemporary tones of mocha or the delightful ‘rain’ colour – a delicately mottled blue/black finish. Find out more about the iconic specs and sunglass styles by Oliver Goldsmith and visit the online store at www.olivergoldsmith.com
Timeless, detail conscious, with a peerless level of craft
Four distinctive shapes, created with luxury materials and precise artisan workmanship. The quality of eyewear designed with dedication and exceptional attention to detail, as it was in past decades, continues to garner attention, underlining traditional values with reflection on genuine workmanship and innovation.
At the German company Coblens, the metal collection ‘Schiffahrtsstrasse’ – with focus on titanium, made in Japan – presents very narrow rimmed classic shapes this season – where every detail is visible, functional and reliable. Aviator and pilot shapes as well as round and multi-sided vintage-inspired glasses provide looks for everyday and multiple face shapes. Above: the soft octagononal model Mole in the Titanium collection, Schiffahrtsstrasse by Coblens. The octagon is a lovely flattering shape which is currently enjoying a resurgence. www.coblens.com
The classic shaping of model Gauloise by Lafont Paris is enriched with artistic colour combinations or fabric effects, which add subtle sparkle and delicate light reflections. Visit www.lafont.com for more details on the new luxurious classic styles in their extensive artisan eyewear collection.
The Berwick is an iconic design in the British-made Savile Row collection. Offering clean lines with its beautiful architectural brow line and rectangular eye shape the frame has a statement elegance which is both alluring and flattering, highlighting the line of the wearer’s natural brow line. Find a selection of classic spectacles, monocles and sunglass clips in their online store at www.savileroweyewear.com
Christian Roth continues to present exceptional pieces of design as a part of Dita Group; deconstructing its own precious archive of frames and re-imagining a new paradigm of style. The oval shape of Round-Wav (available as an ophthalmic or sunglass style) is a common thread in Roth’s collections and is significant now as one of the favourite trending ‘vintage’ inspired looks. Roth’s designs have been worn by a host of celebrities in the last decades including Kate Moss, Lenny Kravitz and Kurt Cobain, who wore the iconic oval Series 6558. For more information: www.christianroth.com
A pledge to show support of independent retailers in the COVID-19 crisis with donation from online sunglass sales
Young Swiss eyewear label Einstoffen is taking immediate action in light of the global health crisis by donating a percentage of their online sunglasses sales back to their long-term optical partners.
Philippe Rieder told Eyestylist: “We have decided to support our customers in these difficult times as much as our strengths allow. From 18th March to 19th April 2020, 50% of the turnover of each pair of sunglasses purchased online will be credited to the opticians in the town where the purchase has been made.”
“We do not want to benefit at the expense of our partners. Our corrective frames will continue to be available only in specialist shops but we hope that this percentage of our online sunglasses sales could at least help alleviate our customers’ losses in some way…”
This spring, the brand has launched its biggest collection yet: ‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ with 40 new styles in titanium, wood acetate and steel. It celebrates independent minds and free spirits with forward-thinking designs, unusual materials and material combinations, with a focus on easy-to-wear design with the occasional ‘surprising twist’.
‘Stand Tall, Run Free’ stays true to the signature Einstoffen style, mixing natural resources with technical materials and easy-fitting shapes. New eye-catching details include very detailed micro-engravings, sprayed titanium, lenses in multiple colours and tiny wooden inserts. Find out more about the collection at www.einstoffen.ch
EINSTOFFEN is a young eyewear and fashion brand founded in 2008 by four friends from Switzerland. Inspired by nature, art, film and music, the brand has since created shirts, glasses, sunglasses, T-shirts and watches for cosmopolitan individualists with a sense of humour. “In our eyes, eyewear and streetwear, nature and urbanity, Swiss quality awareness and a pinch of extravagance go together very well.”
The eco choices in eyewear continue to widen and neubau eyewear from Austria – one of the young innovative companies focusing on eco-friendly design, has just added to its selection of materials with their own new 100% bio-based ‘natural3D’. A special edition sunglasses collection has been released to show off the fresh relaxed styling and fresh Spring-infused colours available, with 3 models – Romy (above on model), Maurice and Alain.
What is ‘natural3D’? The all-new material, natural3D by neubau eyewear, is created via an innovative and sustainable production process. The surface is skin-friendly with smooth sealed edges and vibrant colour intensity which will not fade. The material is formed using the oil extracted from the castor oil plant’s seeds. The resulting powder derived during this extraction is merged together layer by layer by a laser during 3D printing and any excess material is then reused for additional frames (ensuring zero waste).
neubau eyewear has also launched four new optical styles in the new eco-friendly material, available from April 2020. The frames are named after environmental activists. For mode details visit www.neubau-eyewear.com
‘The lens cleaning cloth re-imagined as a canvas for creative action’
l.a. Eyeworks – whose long-term commitment to the art world has evolved through many years via an exciting legacy of collaborations with visual innovators – artists, illustrators, graphic designers and photographers – has a fresh line-up of art inspiration coming our way shortly. The brand has commissioned Los Angeles-based artists Liz Young and Julian Hoeber, and designer Gere Kavanaugh, an AIGA Medalist to create new designs for their cleaning cloths accompanying all their Spring 2020 eyewear and sunglass styles.
Above: the design by Gere Kavanaugh, a prolific voice in the history of American design, Gere Kavanaugh’s pioneering spirit and talents have touched almost every aspect of the discipline. A unifying thread throughout Kavanaugh’s work is the designer’s passion for colour (“I could eat colour”), bountifully represented in this explosive, fractal composition.
Julian Hoeber’s artwork for the iconic eyewear label explores the mysterious territory between oppositions – organic and inorganic, conceptual and experiential – as a way to illustrate the workings of the human mind. Hoeber’s sampler of eyes is described as “representing a journey from a literal self-portrait along a path of historical and pop culture references to an almost complete (and yet recognizable) abstraction”.
Working in diverse media, often with labor-intensive methods, artist Liz Young focuses on themes that evoke the beauty, fragility, and inevitable decay of nature and the human body. Perhaps metaphorically referencing the American West, Young’s photograph of a horse’s eye captures a moment of stillness, a poetic pause between vitality and decline. Find out more about l.a. Eyeworks at www.laeyeworks.com
The natural landscapes of California and the colours and textures of endorheic basins of the world have inspired a new mood and colour palette in the C1-20 collection of eyewear.
Inspired by effortless beauty, and the natural formations and colours of endorheic basins – the characteristic of which is usually a saline lake or salt flats, the new releases at SALT. bring together two key characteristics, stylish design with a high-class, lasting finish. The collection, which includes new optical and sunglass shapes, is made in Japan, where producers create the frames according to time-old traditions.
Above: the Hillier sunglasses by SALT. Optics are named after the lake in Middle Island, Archipelago of the Recherche, Western Australia – a classically chic oval shape fitted with polarized CR39 gradient lens – available at https://saltoptics.com/products/hillier-tt
The smallest details, right down to the pins visible at either side of the front of the frames are distinctive in their quality and finish set flush into the surface of the acetate. Alongside classic tones of black and indigo blue, hues inspired by the colorations of salt flats and lakes include taupe, smoke grey, whiskey and woodgrain.
Model Fuller – available in tones which include black, smoke grey, tortoise grey and woodgrain – is one of the classic 1960s infused shapes in the collection, created in multiple sizes for a wide variety of faces. The thin clean lines of the silhouette – which has a delicate key hole bridge – define the signature timeless aesthetic of SALT. VIew model Fuller at: https://saltoptics.com/products/fuller-50-rx-tg
SALT. Optics optical and sunglass collections are designed in California and made in Japan. The models in Collection 1 2020 are available through selected optical retailers and online at www.saltoptics.com. CN
Collection 2020: re-edition of ‘favourite styles’ with elegant contemporary finish – a celebration of the sustainable label’s 10th Anniversary
One of eyewear’s innovative ‘treasures’, creative, pioneering, and committed to excellence in design, EOE Eyewear is celebrating 10 years in the optics business with inspirations in art and beautiful, wearable signature eyewear collectibles. Among the re-edition frames, each one updated with special nuances and nature inspired hues, are models Burträsk and Abisko – created in two special editions.
The EOE Eyewear brand started in 2010 when Erik and Emilia Lindmark were taking a snowmobile ride outside the small village of Ammarnas in northern Sweden. The white and softly rolling landscape gave birth to the idea of an eyewear brand that would combine inspiration from the barren nature of Lapland with the fastidious elegance so significant for Scandinavian design.
To mark the special Anniversary, EOE Eyewear has also been developing a special artistic collaboration. Finnish artist, Linda Linko has worked to translate some of the most evocative places and materials of their homeland which have inspired the EOE co-founders Erik and Emilia Lindmark throughout their first 10 years. Her work (above) will appear in packaging and cleaning cloths in 2020.
Burträsk is the cool cateye of the EOE Eyewear “family.” Inspired by Emilia’s grandpa, this dramatic feminine statement frame is now reissued in a new material, made entirely from waste products from inside the EOE Eyewear factory.
The light modified cat’s eye shape of the second Burträsk edition is a wonderfully creative interpretation of this dramatic shape, with a lightness achieved through the open sections above the lenses and the narrow semi-rimless structure of the smooth metal which frames the top rim.
Model Abisko is named after a village located north of the Arctic Circle, a place known for spectacular views of the aurora borealis. The newly updated aviator shape has a very fine chic profile and highlights the U-shape of the Lapponian Gate, a striking element of the local landscape. Produced in a wonderful trendy green tinted titanium, the new edition also has a graduated tinted lens, inspired by the colours of the Northern Lights.
Meanwhile the Abisko Round takes the concept further in an oval eye shape with a uniquely feminine yet minimal design. Inspiration for the subtle delicacy of the light pink-purple lens tone comes from the early morning hues of Lapland’s crisp winter skies.
“All of our frames are sustainably produced and fully recyclable and bio-degradable. EOE of today is considered a pioneer in sustainability. In 2019, we broke new ground when launching REGRIND, a concept which made us the first player in the global eyewear industry to produce new frames made from old ones.” – Emilia Lindmark, EOE Eyewear
The Iceland Collection by Oscar Mamooi: seven outstanding new frames with a bold design, original combination of materials and ‘gleaming’ textures which replicate the beauty of ice – each frame is named after a track by Bjork as a homage to the singer.
Irregular shapes, conceived as a reflection of the connection between man and nature characterise new eyewear work by Italian designer Oscar Mamooi – launched this month. The frames replicate the unexpected, unpredictable forms, structures and jagged edges of icebergs and glaciers, contrasted with the smoothness and tactile experience of pieces of ice. Above: model Unison in the Iceland collection
The designer has explored advanced technologies and techniques such as hot pressing, creating ad hoc moulds for every single part of the frame. “These parts are then compressed to create the acetate, giving life to surprising volume effects,” says Mamooi.
Oscar Mamooi is a multi-talented designer/stylist and illustrator. His love for eyewear dates back several years; in 2014 he designed the Celebration Collection, a tribute to Italian journalist and fashionista Anna Piaggi. See the Iceland Collection at www.oscarmamooi.com
Angles, edges, corners. An articulated architectural style. Multi-sided, multi-faceted or softly layered. Whatever will work for you this season, we’re noting a choice of dramatic details and design flourishes defined by geometric lines and clean-cut silhouettes.
Above: SOL SOL ITO sunglasses photographed by Nina-Maria Glahé. The frames are made from high-quality acetate with hand-polished surfaces and all elements processed and refined with painstaking care.www.solsolito.com
The new proposition from Mykita and Helmut Lang offers a deconstruction of a wraparound sunshield with several component parts. The HL002 is curvilinear and fluid with a strong angular style for the design of the temple and side – the model is pictured above in white/silver flash sides with silver flash lenses. For more details visit www.mykita.com
Launching this week for the Spring/Summer season the new Essedue range of sunglasses includes hexagonal designs (model 488) and chunky shapes with visible bevelling to create a strong dynamic structured frame design. On-trend colorations include the delicate coral above and some vintage inspired tortoise tones – see more shapes at www.esseduesunglasses.com
Anything goes is the mantra for 2020 in the women’s sunglass collections. In Milan this weekend, blue skies brought out plenty of eyewear chic on the street outside the shows, and a pleasing breadth of designs to pair with outfits and accessories with pride, purpose and precision. Popular styles included the large square-ish tortoise frames, a variety of mini and maxi rimless styles, very large iconic visors, and a consistent fondness for the 1990s looks. Above: Outside the shows at Milan Fashion Week: Mandy Bork wears oversized visor / Fendi FW20. Photo: Gennaro D’Elia / Eyestylist
Vintage-infused styles were popular paired with miniature bags, and a predilection for boyfriend shirts and suits came dressed up with a variety of sunglass statements, from very feminine cat’s eyes to 90s micro “blackouts” which shield the eyes with purpose from the sun (and the cameras).
Fashion blogger “Mascarada Paris” wears quirky oversized sunglasses, a multi-colored top and super baggy boyfriend trousers. (Photo by Gennaro D’Elia/Eyestylist).
A good mix of classic eyewear or vintage-infused shapes in Milan suggests that anything really goes this season! See more of our photos from Milan, Italy on our Instagram page @eyestylistmagazine.Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist. All rights reserved.
Eyestylist returned to Algha Works, London – the home of classical British eyewear
Behind the memorable doors of Algha Works, an historic artisan eyewear factory now surrounded by new builds and wastelands in the East End of London, are some of Europe’s most highly skilled craftsmen and women, making spectacles the traditional way, through years – in some cases decades – of dedication to the meticulous craft.
The building itself has stood the test of time. In 1940, a bomb exploded just outside on Smeed Road and it was described as a miracle that Algha Works – and its extraordinary collection of German-made machinery and specialised tools survived. Today, within the factory’s distinctive graffitied walls, lies a complex artisan operation that remains much as it was in the ’30s, historic and infused with a deep heritage which has brought it consistent recognition and loyalty from customers around the world.
Preserving the most classical forms and constructions, delicately tweaked for the contemporary wearer, each of the Savile Row rolled-gold styles today continues to be produced in the old fashioned manner with numerous steps to achieve a final “bespoke-finished” product. Model Beaufort exemplifies the ultimate signature panto shape of the Savile Row collection, worn by a host of well-known faces such as Harrison Ford (as Indiana Jones) and Johnny Depp. Typical of the styles in the line, the frame comes in a choice of gold or rhodium with a choice of colour for the Windsor rim, typically black, chestnut, tortoise or blond. https://savileroweyewear.com/retailshop/beaufort
The Savile Row Panto is unequivocally a star in the collection, worn famously by John Lennon as well as Eric Clapton (the Diaflex Panto version). Engravings, which elevate the unique finish of these retro-infused spectacles, can be applied to parts of the frame such as the bridge (illustrated above) – the operation to create such a delicate and ornate patterning is precise and requires particular expertise – using the very same machines that were brought from Germany many decades ago. Link to The Panto online:https://savileroweyewear.com/retailshop/panto For more details about Savile Row Eyewear visit www.savileroweyewear.co.uk
A sensual soft style evolves in new designs at the luxury brand
The Danish eyewear designer, Birgitte Falvin points to the sensual finesse of her handcrafted frames for Spring/Summer 2020. “A Nordic ambience infuses our new designs, pure and streamlined,” says Falvin. “The Premium Collection unites this mood with precise details, superb Japanese quality and skillful craftsmanship.” Above: Danish model Marina Ohm wears model Venus; photography by Henrik Adamsen.
Falvin’s unisex aviator shape, Uranus, is sleek, sophisticated and commanding in its expression of quality – ideal for all activities – both sports and professional. The structure is oversized with a dramatic square-ish eye shape to suit men and women. The colour choices are typical of the brand with uniquely inspiring luxury pairings which include mat onyx with mat black gold or mat topaz with 24 carat gold.
The soft, sensual form of frame model Venus is interpreted with a light construction, satisfyingly comfy fit, and a striking matt and shiny finish to symbolise charisma and subtle personality. FALVIN offers the additional possibility of a fully customised design, decorated with sparkling Wesselton diamonds. The brand works in close collaboration with a distinguished Danish jeweller to create the jewellery encrusted frames with a luxurious and compelling expression of individual style.
FALVIN’s exciting new eyewear designs include models Venus and Uranus. The frames will be available at international stockists from Spring 2020. They will show at the trade fair in Denmark: Copenhagen Specs March 7/8. Find out more atwww.falvineyewear.com
Cutting-edge aesthetics. Advanced functionality. Streamlined tech detailing. These areas have been studied with painstaking care and attention by a handful of independent eyewear brands creating products to fit with the aesthetic of streetwear: where luxurious – often avantgarde – styling and innovation are presented in equal, uncompromising measure.
Barcelona brand Lool has just announced its flat sport style sunglasses, Lool’s ‘Spark’ (above) from the Non Stop City collection. The inspiration for the line comes from club culture, contemporary cities and streetwear fashion. The glasses mix experimental concepts and new fashion trends with a touch of colour and bold, angular structures. The range also highlights the use of photochromic lenses which adapt to changes in light, darkening for day and lightening for night, when a luminescent line profiles the lens. Find out more: www.looleyewear.com
Mykita’s reputation as an eyewear innovator and its wide offering of sun and ophthalmic frame styles takes in the streetwear aesthetic in many guises with models in the 3D printed Mylon collection having a particularly special allure for connoisseurs of design. On course with a mix of sports and streetwear – and elements of fantasy, the new capsule collab styles with Bernhard Willhelm serve up bold silhouettes with airbrush gradients on temples and eye-catching ‘hanging’ lenses – marking a decade of successful collaboration between the two creative brands. www.mykita.com
The British label Covrt Project is defined by streetwear cultures and subcultures. Creative Director Marcello Martino has particular expertise in CAD design – and luxury eyewear production (in Italy), allowing the brand to create innovative frames with a distinctive identity. MP4 – from the all-black _MissionOne collection has an unusually high double bridge, topped with an acetate bar. The tech details include a signature cam laser welded hinge and functional ‘stopper’ incorporated into the temple arm. Find out more at www.covrtproject.com
The Italian brand explores a new deep narrative in its latest campaign – Timeless Memories -, located at Alberto Burri’s Cretto of Gibellina. The campaign was shot by Giovanni De Sandre.
The Cretto of Burri, also known as the Great Cretto, is a dramatic piece of land art in Southern Italy, realized by Alberto Burri. The work lies at the site of the historic centre of Gibellina, a village destroyed in an earthquake, and today remembered in Burri’s immense and permanent ‘cretto’ or crack.
“Selecting the Great Cretto was a choice of values and value,” Simone Favero told Eyestylist. “A pure connection between what Burri wanted to convey in cementing the Gibellina ruins after the earthquake and our putting down roots, even emotional ones, in our every action. We can only grow as a company, as a business, if we define our reasons for doing business in a clear way. For us, the connection with the past, and what every day teaches us, is a fundamental way of putting down roots.”
“Cementing the ruins of a city after an earthquake represents the ‘apotheosis of pointless gestures’. With Timeless Memories we wanted to convey our conviction that these seemingly pointless gestures are necessary,” explained Favero.
This location, and those of past campaigns, have become inherent to the storytelling of the brand and its values: neomadeinitaly, the company’s ethical and historic ties to the land it inhabits; titanium, the concrete material aspect of the product; and credo, the ‘awareness’ of the campaign’s message that, in this case at the Grand Cretto, is not only a transfiguration of images, but also of deep meaning and substance.
“We’re a company and a brand,” says Favero. “Our history and actions as regards production, along with our business choices are all focused around corporate social responsibility. The objective is to bring this theme into the seasonal campaign and amaze people, as we like to do at Blackfin, thereby, for maybe the first time, laying down a subtext which can constitute a milestone in the company’s history. Timeless Memories was welcomed by all…and has far surpassed expectations. It has touched people due to the emotion inspired by the book we have created, resonating mostly because of the choice of a truly intimate, ethical motivation.” For more details about TimelessMemories and the new SS20 eyewear releases, visit www.blackfin.eu
British photographer Mark Borthwick has worked with Mykita through a multitude of campaigns and his latest work for the brand – entitled Light Narratives – illustrates his characteristic unaffacted style and authentic approach with a particularly compelling mood. As storytelling goes, the imagery is perfectly in keeping with the personal aspect of Mykita design, capturing real faces and real glances and expressions in a landscape that is evocative and mesmerising, with wide-open spaces.
Created in a remote area of Portugal, the minimal imagery features deliberate contrasts in close-up portraits, group shots and landscapes, while across some of the photographs are the distinctive pink and lilac movements in light from the sun, a trait that is typical of the style of the photographer. Below: a short ‘behind the scenes’ film from the shoot in Portugal by Mark Borthwick.
The campaign images show frames styles in the Mykita Lite, Decades and No1 Sun collections, in contemporary stainless steel or acetate/steel combinations. In synergy with the photography and the neutral colour palette dominated by blue sky and tan earth, interspersed with flashes of bright crimson fabric, the eyewear designs come in pared down and classical tones of matte silver, champagne gold and black, with some unexpected twists and contrasts in a gentle purple bronze/pink clay combination and a topaz/shiny copper mix. For more information about the new SS20 styles now available at Mykita, visitwww.mykita.com
The UK’s showcase destination for eyewear fashion, 100% Optical, took place last weekend, at the well-known trade venue ExCel in East London. This British trade event for the optics industry presents a cross-section of technical products with a slew of seminars, debates and educational lectures for optical retailers, alongside a broad eyewear fashion “overview” where big and small brands present their lines, side by side.
Among hundreds of different types of eyewear showing across the hall, the creativity, design focus and innovation of the frame industry comes through in the representation of independent labels at the fair; their presence was widened in the 2020 edition with the addition of a small shared section dedicated to emerging talent: Covrt Project (London), Nina Mûr (Madrid), Lunettes Alf (Paris), Lowercase (NYC) and Manu Torres Atelier (Galicia) were particular highlights for lovers of finely crafted, spectacles and sunglasses.
Above: Lowercase from NYC was one of the notable additions in an area dedicated to small labels and newcomers. Built out of a love for eyewear and an appreciation for craftsmanship, Lowercase was established in 2016 by Gerard Masci and Brian Vallario. The team founded the company “with a mission to once again localize the trade of eyewear to the US. Every pair of Lowercase frames is made in the Brooklyn workshop from start to finish….”
Key colours: Across the show, the freshest statement colours that popped up time and again were bright canary yellow, Pantone “colour of the year” classic blue, and light purple/lilac – with several very pale interpretations of lilac through to pastel pink. The Alium collection by FACE A FACE (above) which combines extremely well aligned technical properties for comfort and longevity offered a mix of vibrant, on-trend colorations with a particularly stunning intensity. www.faceaface-paris.com
Nina Mûr from Madrid has a consistent and broad range of eyewear concepts – some created as collaborations. The label is focused on good quality and distinctive design and produces its collections in innovative and sustainable materials – predominantly wood with an artistic palette of tasteful, quality colour finishes. www.ninamur.com
The French label Morel was also exhibiting at 100% this year. Morel’s expertise in minimal styling takes a new aesthetic twist with pretty seasonal colours and two-tone ideas in the S/S range. The hexagonal shaping of Morel model 30182L combines with the bold graduated transparent shade of blue, and a delicate soft pink, perfect for a lighter look for Spring. Find out more at www.morel-france.com
The annual RCA competition was won by Ely Yili Cao, Womenswear (Millinery) for her piece entitled ‘Your sight, sound and smell, my love.’ 100% Optical will take place at Excel London in 2021 from 23rd to 25th January 2021. For details visitwww.100percentoptical.com. Feature written by Clodagh Norton exclusively for Eyestylist.com.
The contemporary appeal of the palest tones of lilac alongside a few more provocative purple hues have infiltrated the 2020 eyewear and sunglasses collections with striking success, as we head towards new looks for spring/summer. According to trend forecasters, this is a colour to “pack a punch” with a growing desirability since 2018 when “ultra violet” took the title of Pantone colour of the year. Above: a new campaign from Italian label Blackfin at an evocative location, The Great Cretto, Southern Italy. The frame is a combo beta titanium with acetate rim model called Tortuga and is part of the Blackfin AURA collection, pictured above in a purple/gradient blue acetate. For more colorways visit the website at www.blackfin.eu
The Sand Dab by l.a.Eyeworks is a little bit shimmery, with a graduated soft blue to pale lilac effect, a chic rendering of the trend that has achieved a steadfast hold on fashion and design trends. This pairing of tones softens the quirky angular shaping of the acetate frame. Find out more www.laeyeworks.com
1980s attitude combined with the most modern tone of luminous lilac packs a punch for girls and boys who love the cat eye edge. Particularly alluring is the matching ‘fresh lavender’ lens tone. Find out more at www.carlacolour.com/shop/modan-astro-comet
Tree Spectacles has focused in on this colour in both its acetate (above) and titanium collections for 2020. Note the delicacy of the tone in the acetate style Hero, and the lightness achieved through the transparent crystal finish. www.treespectacles.com