Reviews

Handmade for men: Duke by RES/REI

In the Gentlemen collection by RES/REI launched for the current season, model Duke exemplifies the brand’s elegant contemporary take on designing artisan eyewear styles for men – always striving for an inimitable style of sophistication and handcrafted finesse

Distinguished by bi-layer acetates and the blending of horn tones and vibrant blue or green, through the intricate 3d detailing, model Duke is part of the Gentlemen collection conceived to suit the modern man. With its sophisticated shapes, accomplished workmanship and rich details, the frames in the line all feature 5-joint hinges and a decorative metal inner core within temples. Above: model Duke comes in six different colourways including the rich Brown Tortoise variation in acetate from Mazzucchelli 1849’s archives – the additional colourways (not pictured above and below) are – Brown Havana with slate blue and ultramarine blue; black/green; and olive green.

Detail: model Duke by RES/REI, pictured in brown horn with ultramarine blue

Decorations in this collection are inspired by the tradition of the Speakeasies that arose in the United States during Prohibition. The lettering on the inside of the frames follow this theme.

Detail: model Duke by RES/REI, pictured in grey-blue horn and green

The Gentlemen Collection by RES/REI currently boasts twelve models sorted into two main directions: the first features thicker fronts and temples, while the second is characterised by thinner profiles. Both design styles incorporate numerous masculine details. Find out more at www.resrei.com

Erker’s Special Reserve: new Limited Edition models

Two new refined models elevate the design of the heritage collection at Erker’s with a new polishing process, adding a range of custom elements throughout the frames, and upgrading from a standard brushed metal to a shiny silver – the ferris wheel rivets reference an important moment in the brand’s history

Combining the Erker’s family expertise, which dates back through generations, the Bouvier and Deardorf optical styles have been developed as being completely representative of the heritage of the brand and featuring detailed insignia, telling stories of the Erker family in each little detail. Found on the temple tips, a goggles icon notes their making of Charles Lindbergh’s goggles in the first ever nonstop transatlantic flight, while their year of inception and the generations of Erkers to run the business are found on the opposite side. On the interior of the temples, a custom-designed wire core is meant to resemble a microphone, a nod to the one-of-a-kind legends from the family’s hometown and some of the big-name celebrities that have sported an Erker’s frame. Ferris wheel rivets join the temple with the custom German hinge, matched by the decorative rivets on the front of the  Deardorf model featured in the collection. Above: model Deardorf by Erker’s – in the Special Reserve Limited Edition

Deardorf by Erker’s – available in blue grey, green sand, grey brown, and black red (pictured above)

Named after a veteran sales rep for a handful of their Northeast territories, the model Deardorf has a classic square shape, thick brows with a gentle curve at the bridge to offset the thinner lower rims, paired with a wide temple for a bold, sturdy style. A classic saddle bridge complements the thicker build, ensuring a comfortable fit. Matching the authentic rivets along the temples, four Ferris wheel rivets decorate the front of the frame, drawing the eyes upwards for an “uplifted” look.

LEINZ
ERKERS
Orgreen
SILMO Paris 20-23 SEPT 2024
BLACKFIN
DIFFUSER Tokyo

The Ferris wheel is a detail that references the history of Saint Louis, where in 1904 at the World’s Fair, the very first ferris wheel rides were given. Erker’s Eyewear was the official photographer of the event.

Bouvier by Erker’s – an elegant cat eye design

Model Bouvier, named after a long-time sales rep of the North Carolina territory, features a bold and expressive silhouette. The sharp cat eye edge gives a dramatic feel, further accentuated by a narrow rectangular shape, thick rims, and a sleek straight brow. Custom designed and exclusive to Special Reserve, model Bouvier is available in four acetate blends including Burgundy Night and Antique Tort. For both frames, with the aim of retaining real exclusivity, just 100 styles of each colour have been made. For more information visit https://erkers1879.com/pages/erkers-special-reserve

TVR®504 8mm KURO (Black Edition) released

Now available worldwide, the new Edition has been created in a collaboration with Aaron Chang – creator of IVY BOYS 

A new Black Edition from the Japanese independent eyewear brand, TVR® has been created in a collaboration with Aaron Chang, the South Korean born creator of IVY BOYS – and launched initially via teaser campaign in Seoul. The frame, which features Sterling Silver spear rivets and  introduces gunmetal on all metal parts of the eyewear is named “KURO” after the Japanese word for “black” and its spectrum of meanings across fashion and art as well as in Japanese culture.

Crafted from custom-made Japanese Zylonite in Grey Crystal, the TVR®504 8mm KURO features a 1mm black layer on the temple, adding depth and sophistication. The material used for the front is described as taking centre stage, crafted and layered with black hues, achieving a profound solid black tone with a unique finish and surprising light effect. Above + below: a handcrafted work of distinction – TVR®504 8mm KURO (Black Edition), merging craftsmanship and style with Sterling Silver rivets and gunmetal accents

TVR®504 8mm KURO: exclusive packaging and limited edition merchandise / gifts

Of particular interest to those who recognise craft and unique Japanese design work, the TVR® Sterling Silver Spear 3D Rivets (Enlarged Version), have been produced without coating in order that they will develop a dark patina over time. Breaking new ground, TVR®OPT has also introduced a gunmetal coating on the hinges and the metal core, a step which adds a luxurious touch, and further accentuated by gold-plated washers that make the hinges shine.

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ERKERS
SILMO Paris 20-23 SEPT 2024
Orgreen
DIFFUSER Tokyo
NYC LOFT 2025
OGI Eyewear

Designed and created in Sabae, Fukui, Japan, this new frame concept took 12-months to develop through production, to ensure the final qualities of stability and a luxurious finish. The team at TVR®OPT say that they dedicated their time in the subsequent year to the meticulous crafting of each piece, with every detail custom-crafted by their highly renowned artisans.

Available in sizes 46mm to 50mm, the larger 50mm design is recommended as the ideal choice for sunglasses. Find out more at www.instagram.com/TVROPT

About AARON CHANG: Chang is the visionary creator behind the IVY BOYS brand, and stands at the intersection of art, dreams, and fashion. Born in South Korea, his artistic journey began under the influence of his father, an art teacher, fostering a deep love for creativity from a young age. His childhood immersion in art laid the groundwork for a lifelong passion that eventually manifested in the fusion of Ivy League fashion and a whimsical sense of humour. Aaron’s journey into the world of fashion illustration was shaped by pivotal moments, notably the impact of street fashion photography during his university days and the inspiration drawn from luminaries like Scott Schuman, creator of The Sartorialist blog. The introduction to ‘Take Ivy,’ a book capturing the essence of Ivy League fashion, marked a turning point, leading to the birth of IVY BOYS. 

Marni by Retrosuperfuture

Retrosuperfuture continues its creative partnership with Marni, the iconic Milanese fashion brand, with the release of a new statement eyewear collection for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. The three new silhouettes are distinctive, sculptural and include beautiful shell-inspired patterns as well as solid colours

The new designs bring together RSF’s knowledge of materials and production technologies, with Marni’s aesthetic research. The selection was created with a particular emphasis on their tactile, material quality and high-end craftsmanship with the three silhouettes, Magneticus, Caelicola and Dark Doodad, having been designed by drawing inspiration from theatrical masks, with their exuberant, archetypal characters matching Marni’s distinctive and beautifully quirky aesthetics.  Above + below: model Caeolicola in “starshell” – the shape is described as an ironic take on classic cat-eyes – it features a unique pointed shape with curved rims and triangular lenses – the Marni branding is handset with an enamel finish within the temples

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Res Rei
SILMO Paris 20-23 SEPT 2024
MOREL
JISCO
TVR True Vintage Revival
LEINZ
LAMARCA EYEWEAR
Exciting patterned frame design: Marni’s “mischievous” Magneticus sunglasses in “Lava” – the frame also comes in black, “Lazuli” and pink

To emphasize the construction and material quality of each silhouette, RSF and Marni have ventured into in-depth archival research to create custom-made acetate finishes. Working with Mazzucchelli, the designers have crafted exclusive natural finishes. For Magneticus, a lava-like finish in deep red, brown and dusty pink tones; for Caelicola a pearlescent, layered finish in gray, black and white with brown touches. All the finishes were designed to highlight the thick, opulent construction of each piece, elevating their materiality and craftsmanship. In addition to these exclusive colours, all three models also come in a classic black finish with red enameled branding as well as in a bright solid tinted acetates – green, yellow blue and red – with contrasting coloured lenses in bright blue, acid yellow or orange.  Find out more at www.retrosuperfuture.com

Article One x Mission Workshop: sunglasses for sport

An activewear frame for cycling and running enthusiasts – the frame has been spotted on Ryan Gosling

With its unique take on the classic navigator design, the collaboration design from Article One x Mission Workshop offers a cool timeless design, with hidden advantages for use during sport. Handcrafted in Italy, the aim was to create an extremely versatile accessory that can seamlessly transition from day-to-day activities to intense athletic pursuits.

GIGI STUDIOS
Götti Switzerland
SILMO Paris 20-23 SEPT 2024
ROLF Spectacles
TVR True Vintage Revival
DIFFUSER Tokyo
VAVA Eyewear
LAMARCA EYEWEAR

The sunglasses boast performance-driven elements highlighted by a TR-90 polymer construction — a durable, lightweight and hypoallergenic material. The frame also features technical details such as Italian polarised CR39 lenses that block 100% of UVA/UVB rays and prevent road glare, adjustable silicone nose pads and rubber temple tips for grip and hold, backside anti-reflective lens coating and spring hinges. The style is currently available in Green Tortoise, Vintage Crystal, Black Marble and Purple Tortoise.

Article One x Mission Workshop
Article One are specialists in sports eyewear offering classic and old-school frame shapes that have been recreated with technical adjustments to give them high-tech appeal for those who wish to use the frames for activities and sports. The brand was founded in Flint, Michigan by former collegiate runner Wes Stoody. As the principal designer since the first collection launch in 2016, Stoody centres fashion at the heart of his creative process – constantly challenging traditional aesthetics of the performance category. Article One has teamed with Mission Workshop to produce a series of collaboration sunglasses since 2021 – the Mission Workshop label is San Francisco-based and creates bags, clothing, and footwear for urban cyclists. To find out more visit https://articleoneeyewear.com
Photography by Bryan Banducci.