November 2017

Erica by Res/Rei

21st November 2017

Sculptured silhouettes, unique colourations, and beautiful Mazzucchelli acetate blend harmoniously in the latest Res/Rei designs. Oliviero Zanon appreciates the professional use and logic of fine acetate, and frequently researches Mazzucchelli vintage acetate. Incorporating contemporary styling, and often bespoke acetate made exclusively for Res/Rei, further enhances the designs. Streamlined with artisan Italian handcrafting, Erica suggests retro hints united with timeless form. Discover more Res/Rei designs – both optical and sunglasses – at www.resrei.com JG

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Design + Inspiration

Coloured glasses

17th November 2017

One definition of colour is a component of light which is separated when it is reflected off an object, such as the colours in a rainbow. To colour something is to add a hue, shade, paint or dye to an object or picture – or in this case, beautifully designed eyewear. The influence of colour in our lives is significant. Studies show that colour has symbolic and aesthetic functions, as well as emotional impact including the use of colour psychology. Colour transformed eyewear into a sought-after fashion accessory. Bold, stylish and unexpected colours – and a multitude of combinations – continue to bring passion and excitement to creative spectacle frames. Top image: The British brand Kirk & Kirk is known as the ‘Kings of Colour’, and their latest triumph is the Spectrum collection. Jason and Karen Kirk continue to experiment with the exceptional qualities of acrylic – particularly because of the endless colour opportunities, and the gentle luminosity. Anna is crafted in eight tempting colours: Pacific, Chocolate Blue, Autumn, Berry, Hazel, Spark, Mars and Summer. www.kirkandkirk.com

Extraordinary colours have long permeated the cheerful designs at l.a. Eyeworks. The latest collection by Barbara McRenyolds and Gai Gherardi includes Kipper – a generous round acetate shape with distinctive serrated details in Leaf & Hay, handmade in Italy. www.laeyeworks.com

Normandy artisans Christophe Morcamp and Pascal Guidice combine print and colour in Belle X – particularly striking in a trio of hues. Discover more about the French brand at www.plein-les-mirettes.fr

Italian creator Oliviero Zanon enjoys history, retro inspiration and experimental eyewear crafting. Cartesio is from The Philosophers – a collection of immaculate, streamlined shapes in contemporary colourations. www.resrei.com

Layered construction highlights Fleye Copenhagen’s designs. Turner mixes solid and transparent acetate with beta-titanium, placing the different components on top of each other for a playful, thoroughly modern concept. www.fleye.dk

Paris has a reputation as queen of the LBD – Little Black Dress. However, dynamic colour is entering the French women’s wardrobe and accessories. A selection of expressive and colourful frames by Face à Face Paris reflects the reasons why – as shown in Eames in bi-tone blush and blue. www.faceaface-paris.com

Legendary styles by OG Icons include OOPS – and Claire Goldsmith comments that the two colours featured above are “my favourites without a doubt”, she says. The frames feature triple lamination for glamorous effect. www.olivergoldsmith.com JG

Reviews

New launch: Crystal Diva, Silhouette Eyewear

15th November 2017

Behind the luxurious design of this ‘jewellery’ frame are many steps of creativity and expertise, carried out in one of Europe’s most advanced eyewear production facilities. From the Elegance Collection by Silhouette Eyewear, the Crystal Diva frame features a unique crystal applique design: the Swarovski crystals are applied by hand to create an exquisitely detailed focal point on the temples – and a sparkling effect for a special occasion.

The Crystal Diva range comes in a stylish dusky rose metal finish, complete with luxe rose gold temples.

Founded in 1964, Silhouette Eyewear produces all its collections in Linz in Austria. The company was one of the first to present eyewear as a fashion accessory and has become renowned for its technical know-how and minimal eyewear concepts. More information at www.silhouette.com CN

Design + Inspiration

Trends: Super fine

13th November 2017

Fine lines and a totally minimal structural aesthetic in eyewear continue to trend for the season ahead. Many design brands have produced their own interpretation of the look, some returning to their archives to delve into the past – and eras where fine wired frames were popular – and others proposing a more futuristic design concept, employing advanced materials which are very strong as well as slim. Architectural influences have naturally had an impact on the styling, as more “open” frame structures and different ideas on volumes and the method of construction become significant.

neubau eyewear, the young Austrian brand at Silhouette Eyewear, the Austrian experts in minimalist eyewear design, propose a completely new line in their collection which highlights 4 designs in stainless steel – conceived to combine a forward-looking, yet timeless look and a comfortable fit, achieved through adjustable nose pads and temples and a choice of two sizes. Above: neubau eyewear has launched four styles in The Wire Collection, made from stainless steel.

Manu by neubau is part of the Wire Collection. With its classic round shape and double bridge, the style cleverly plays on current styles and is perfectly fitting for a young audience who are increasingly seeking out the minimal designs. Available in graphite matte, eclectic silver, eclectic silver/black and glorious gold. www.neubau-eyewear.com

From theo, and for those with an eye on a creative lightweight design, the new Noodles serve up minimalism with quirky original details inspired by the Japanese dish and its many varieties: Ramen, Soba, Udon etc.

The lenses are held in place by “sticks” likened to chopsticks and colours vary from neon to more subdued greys and blues – there are 20 colour choices in total. The frames are made of strong, flexible stainless steel, are chemically etched, and feature corners that are laser-cut for an extra delicate effect. Find out more: www.theo.be

Rigards – Aurel wears RG0100AG in .925 sterling silver, blackened.

Rigards, renowned for its artisan designs in buffalo horn, has created a new take on the oversized aviator in .925 sterling silver. The curves on the frames are meant to create an illusion that it’s always in motion. The delicacy of the bridge design points to a minimal refinement in designer Ti Kwa’s artisan work in silver for the new season. www.rigards.com

Rimless styling has returned to the catwalks, and the new collections with this look represent, in some cases, exceptional steps in technological excellence. Gotti Switzerland’s Perspective Collection offers the ultimate minimal frameless concept, with a new proposal in the construction which is free from screws, glue and soldering. The connecting piece between the stainless steel and the lens itself is manufactured for a seamless aesthetic using 3d printing. More details on Gotti Perspective at www.gotti.ch CN

Creative spirits

French eyewear, Plein Les Mirettes

10th November 2017

French Eyewear by Pascal Guidice and Christophe Morcamp

Plein Les Mirettes glasses are produced near Evreux, Normandy. Pascal Guidice and Christophe Morcamp shared their eyewear story since creating their women’s eyewear label in January 2013.

Have you both been in eyewear for a while or did you begin your careers in different sectors?
Christophe Morcamp: My first job was managing visual impairments and strabismus as an orthoptist. Then, over the years after further training in optics, I took a position as an assistant ophthalmologist. At the same time I created two optical shops in Normandy. This was a new experience and allowed me to learn about French eyewear very quickly. I fell in love when shopping for my stores with the creative collections. Making a collection of my very own soon started to appeal to me.
Pascal has a background in R&D, purchase management and finance – in other areas of business. It is the union of our complementary skills that has enabled Plein Les Mirettes to establish itself as a specialist in women’s eyewear in just five years.

Has it been difficult to grow your small label and what has been the main challenge? What has been the best thing for both of you?
We are lucky; the collection quickly finds an audience. The graphic quality and the traditional French production of our glasses enabled us to quickly find our place in a market which is already saturated.
In the first year, we opened more than 200 customer accounts in France, started exporting to Italy with Mattis our distributor there, and also to the Netherlands and Belgium. We were able to develop sufficiently for Pascal to leave his job to join me in this beautiful adventure in eyewear!

You are only designing women’s frames but their appeal is huge! What is your focus? Why do women love your frame styles?
Plein Les Mirettes is addressed specifically to women. I wanted to have fun drawing, but also to address a lot of women through these designs. I think women appreciate the glasses because they have been made especially for them!

You have a sensitive colour palette – that is broad and quite complex in terms of the graduated effects and transparency. Is this a natural gift or has it taken a lot of work to arrive at this in acetate?
I have a natural sensitivity to colour that comes from my childhood. I was lucky to be surrounded by women with strong characters and assertive tastes. I learnt a lot about what they liked.

In recent years, what have been your favourite trips abroad? Tell us a bit about this experience.
We are both a bit wild and we occasionally enjoy partying with a few special friends. During the many trips that we are now making to the various eyewear fairs around the world, we go out very little and dedicate ourselves exclusively to work. However we sometimes take a few extra days away from the madness of Vegas or NYC; we enjoy walking around the streets of Copenhagen or making personal visits to see our distributor in Canada or Tel Aviv.

We are fascinated by your factory in Normandy and its traditional production. Feel free to talk about this as it must be a huge benefit for you to have an intimate relationship with your producers and to live so close to them?
Our production is just near our house and this is a major asset for our success. The workshop and the team working there are close to us and understand our tastes. Being “on the spot” allows me to have access to some of their acetate stock and I think it makes me more responsive to the demands of women and opticians. I can also have an eye on every step of the production and have some things changed in real time if need be. But just as much as this proximity, another important thing is our producer’s know-how and recognised expertise.

Finally, what do you both love doing outside eyewear? What inspires you and what makes you feel happy or creatively inspired?
Pascal and I love to spend our life at work. We have the chance to work together, and we have our offices within the floors of our house in Normandy.
We are very different in our interests. I love cooking, gardening, and spending time modifying the decor of the rooms in the house, drawing objects, clothes, accessories. Pascal loves reading and visiting museums; and he absolutely loves ‘shoes’. www.plein-les-mirettes.fr CN