Inspired by the Inuits and their distinctive iconic protective snow goggles, Malina sunglasses by You Mawo celebrate bold design created with 3D printing technology. Original Inuit frames featured a narrow oval lens shape, reducing the amount of light exposure to prevent snow blindness. Traditionally made of natural materials such as driftwood or bone, the frame would be carved to fit the face with slits that also acted to improve visual acuity according to the width.
Based on the classic interpretation, this new release by You Mawo, named Malina after the Inuit solar deity, explores the creative potential of 3D printed frames with a light yet sturdy, bold rim and gently curved silhouette. A modern fashion statement is achieved with the addition of the gold mirrored lenses, a stark contrast with the eye-catching black structure in Polyamide. Launched last weekend at Mido for the new season, the frame, produced in an edition of just 50 pieces, goes on sale at £600 (689 euros) in specialist retailers including Specs Berlin: find details at https://specs-berlin.de/en/female/you-mawo-malina
Award-winning German brand YOU MAWO is an innovator in custom tailored 3D printed eyewear. Founded in 2016, their frames are made exclusively in Germany with laser sintering technology. The frames in YOU MAWO’s mainline collections are made to measure via an iPad scan of the wearer’s individual face topography. This scan forms the foundation for the production of the frame to optimise comfort and fit. The frames are also customised with the individual’s name printed on the inside. Find further details at: https://www.youmawo.com/en/ CN
Buffalo horn. Fabric. Rubber. Acetate. The eye is drawn to the individual qualities of these materials in contemporary eyewear as young innovators highlight the form and structure of the product with special tactile details and deep nuances in coloration, some of these qualities, just visible with the naked eye.
In the Icons Line at Hapter, the rubberised surface featured has been developed to offer an exclusive tactile aesthetic and feel, with a retro inspiration and a slightly “aged” elegance. Italian founder Eric Balzan has invested years’ of research and development into collections that, for 2019, are further enhanced with a newly patented 8-GON Hinge. The brand will exhibit at Mido in the Design Lab (Pav 4 Stand S11) www.hapter.it Above: RBBR002 – the Icons Line – HAPTER
Rigards has attracted much attention in the last 12 months with their avantgarde collection, and in horn, they highlight the natural qualities of the material, the asymmetrical colorations and the beautiful striated patterns and effects where the surface is hand polished or left in its more natural state. www.rigards.com
Delirious Eyewear, the Milan label, produces buffalo horn frames with a distinct, light touch and artistic aesthetic: designed in Italy, the frames are made from natural Indian water buffalo horn. The process begins by milling two small boards of the same material; one for the front, and the other, for the temples. All the parts are ‘tumbled’, to smooth the little parts and surfaces in a process that can take up to a week. Finally, the artisans put the design together, polishing the surface with pads that highlight the details of the material and the brilliant surface. www.deliriouseyewear.com
In a similar vein – studying the possibilities in surface finishes worked by hand, TAVAT Tactile includes models that have been hand scratched and designs worked on with a pin-stripe laser treatment – mimicking the lines of the iconic Italian “Riva” boat. The frames are made in Italy and designed to offer the utmost comfort on the face. www.tavateyewear.comCN
Find these and other innovators at Mido – the Milan trade fair – from 23-25 February 2019.
Model Deligny by Lafont is one of those classics with a twist that is achievable only through exceptional expertise and precision in the making. In the version pictured, the retro inspired round design incorporates a floral cotton Liberty print in the narrow acetate inner rim of the eye shape as well as in the temples; the metal coloration picks up the bright yellow in the fabric creating a vibrant colour mix, an effect that is typical of the artistic Lafont style, and one that can be traced back through earlier collections.
The Deligny model (above) is pictured in yellow with flash mirrored sun lenses and is also available in combinations with pink or gold. A look of the moment also in optical, the style can also be worn stylishly with a clear prescription lens and various patterned effects in black, pink, brown or red. (https://www.lafont.com/product/57736/DELIGNYOPT-3094OPT/).
Lafont is a historic Parisian eyewear label with 90 years of history and expertise in creating chic eyewear designs, made exclusively in France. The frames carry the authenticity mark “Origine France Garantie”.www.lafont.comCN
With a backdrop of blue skies marking the first feeling of Spring, London Fashion Week opened on Friday. Alongside the main catwalk events and the colourful street style scenes off the catwalks – one of the highlights are the Designer Showrooms on The Strand, offering a diverse, handpicked showcase of over 50 smaller, up-and-coming international brands, a valuable platform for exposure and introductions to the world of fashion in the UK. – Above: buffalo horn frame detail, Delirious Eyewear. Photography: G. D’Elia
“Showcasing within the LFW Designer Showrooms allows brands to develop relationships with globally influential stores and helps to increase their exposure to top international journalists, publications and stylists.”
Representing the eyewear category at the Showrooms and premiering in the UK is Delirious Eyewear from Italy, an exclusive design label recognised by Vogue Italia’s “Who’s on next” awards (2018). Created by young entrepreneur Marco Lanero, the collection is produced in titanium and beta titanium, and the finest acetates and natural Indian buffalo horn, and is currently designed and made in Italy, with focus on traditional Cadore craftsmanship and expertise, rigorously monitored to ensure a unique and accomplished finish.
Buffalo horn remains a popular luxury material in eyewear, and Delirious aims high, using lengthy techniques in the production and final “tumbling” and polishing by hand. Their expertise in this material has attracted the attention of the fashion industry, through an ability to use the traditional techniques and merge them with contemporary design elements.
The Delirious Eyewear collections go into stores in London this season. The definition of luxury eyewear, their alternative design focus brings a contemporary look to the most classical aspects of traditionally made spectacles, as well as providing an impeccable comfort and fit. For more information about Delirious Eyewear visit the company in Milan (Mido trade fair) from 23-25th February 2019 or visit their website at www.deliriouseyewear.comCN Photography by Gennaro D’Elia exclusively for Eyestylist.com. All rights reserved.
Falvin’s Signature Eyewear – launching for the Spring/Summer season – combines Danish design expertise and exquisite Japanese crafting in contemporary shapes in lightweight titanium. The frames celebrate a passion for a Copenhagen landmark – the Crystal – a building from which founder Birgitte Falvin takes inspiration, for an eloquent direction in line and form. Above: released at the German trade fair opti last month, the new Falvin model Stellar. New additions are coming for the Mido trade fair, Milan. The brand exhibits in the prestigious Lab Academy ( Pav 6 / Stand LA 47) where up-and-coming designers and innovators showcase their collections.
Model Stellar (above and in featured video) is a contemporary version of the traditional cat’s eye frame, offering a supreme level of comfort and a statement shape in the state-of-the-art material. Using techniques that can only be mastered by hand, the beautiful two-tone base silhouette offers a luxury expression with black, white or champagne Wesselton diamond settings to create a personalized look. A trained jewellery designer, Birgitte Falvin has studied this element for the finishing of her distinctive eyewear, creating a one-off luxury detail that is both gentle yet sparkling – to catch the beholder’s eye.
The innovative diamond setting is of the highest quality, assembled by a top jeweler in Denmark, appointed by Falvin Eyewear. Find out more about the luxury designs for men and women by the Danish label at www.falvineyewear.com CN
The ways we wear colour in eyewear are always changing, and the impact can be subtle or powerful, depending on many nuances, material combinations and the work on the details and structure of the frame itself. Impactful designs this season include sunglass designs in one single colour for frame and lens. The accomplished innovative fashion brands are doing it – many others are set to follow.
In Europe, Ørgreen Optics is one of eyewear’s trendsetters in colour directions: their Yoko design is defined by the over-sized, circular lenses and elegant details. New vibrant colours of the Yoko include saturated lemon, blue or dusty pink. Above – Yoko in mat vibrant lemonade with yellow contrast lens. www.orgreenoptics.com
Like Ørgreen, Mykita’s new sunglass collections for Spring/Summer 19 open the door to fresh and fruity colour proposals. The impact of the tone-on-tone effect is seen in their Mykita + Maison Margiela model MMESSE023 – in Baywatch red with matching red lens – as well as the eye-catching tone this style has a bold, eye-catching shape – the experimental flat diamond aviator (1990s inspired) has a very narrow reduced stainless steel framework. www.mykita.com
Finest Seven’s fantastic Zero 14 is a fashionista must-have in this colour genre: luxuriously light to wear, in stunning brights such as shocking pink and baby blue, with the brand’s trademark narrow metal bridge and sinuous temples acting as a a balance to the thin bright blue rim and coordinated lens tone. To find more of their statement colour combos, visit www.finestseven.comCN
Over the years, eyewear for the young set has evolved into an inspiring sector with frame designs that are exciting and innovative, plus incorporating the latest production technology. Frames are crafted from fine quality, hypoallergenic materials, in appealing colours, plus safety factors for notorious tumbles and playground antics. Fashion statement frames also ignite a life-long connection – and identity to – exceptional, intelligent eyewear design. JF Rey has a superb Kids & Teen collection with fresh styling and bright colours. Hannah (above image) happily wears a charming round design – Oasis – created with an exclusive acetate component. www.jfrey.fr
Götti Switzerland’s chic Dimension collection for adults is also available in cool looks for kids – Dimension Next. Luxurious 3-D printing, streamlined styling and sophisticated colourations appeal to emerging fashionistas. Designer Sven Götti approached the designs with an imaginative understanding of the important specifications required for children’s glasses. www.gotti.ch
Trendy, sporty and charismatic designs for youngsters are a speciality at Lafont Paris. Polka dots are timeless, and Lafont features a delightful variation in Devinette in black and white, and a subtle salute to the cat-eye shape. www.lafont.com
Mini-version of sought-after adult styles are skilfully adapted for youngsters in Original Penguin Jr designs. The Mungarutal Jr is a relaxed, carefree, round shape in a contemporary tortoiseshell variation. www.kenmarkeyewear.com
Children’s frame specialist Zoobug London has launched flattering, diverse and desirable designs for spring/summer that will enchant kids. ZB 1039 is a hexagonal silhouette in vivid, bouncy colours of Red, Neon Yellow and Navy (above). Ideal for youngsters 5-9 years old. Photo by Lol Johnson – All Rights Reserved. www.zoobug.com
Exacting craftsmanship, beautiful materials, and styles that children will enjoy wearing highlight frames at award-winning Danish label LINDBERG KIDS. An awesome little shape in air titanium is wonderfully comfortable on young faces, plus frame attributes of durability, lightness and flexibility. www.lindberg.comJG
Whether your winter holiday destination includes warm, sun-kissed surroundings, or the allure of skiing and energetic après-ski life, your most important style and safety accessory is sunglasses. Winter sun and afternoon rays can be intense, and sunglasses that afford protection and fashion flair result in a stunning alliance. French label Morel introduces new designs that are ideal for winter adventures in the snow or by the sea. Style 60013 from Morel’s 1880 collection combines vintage elements with a trendy brace bar above the nose, and flat mineral lenses by Barberini. Lightweight, durable, and resistant stainless steel with slim, sleek details is silhouetted into a compelling, impressive design. Visit www.morel-france.com and view more beautiful frames from the Morel 1880 collection. JG
Consider the eyewear accessory here to stay – a much underplayed fashion item in the past, start-ups and fashion industry creatives have refocused on this element of eyewear to fit perfectly with our insatiable desire to create an individual “style of our own”.
Milan’s Federica Moretti launched Huma Sunglasses + accessories in 2017. Inspired to reflect and embrace the creativity and extravagance of the fashion industry, the hat designer came up with a new eyewear collection idea in a range of clean, “basic” sunglass designs (made in Italy) to be worn with “captivating” decorative accessories – with special fastenings that clip onto temples.
These decorative elements can be worn depending on where your mood takes you. The choice includes small jewellery items that fasten to the ring in the temple, crystals, silks, and decorative stones, through to extravagant slightly humorous acrylic “hair pieces” for those who choose to dress to be seen.
Moretti’s imagination has literally run wild with the hair extensions producing an eccentric look in crazy colours. In contrast, some of the designs are subtle and delicate designed as chic jewellery embellishments, perfect for evenings out, special occasions or a gift for the accessory enthusiast with a taste for all things new and different. For more details about Huma and designer Federica Moretti visit Huma Sunglasses on Instagram: @humasunglasses. Available at I Visionari in Florence https://ivisionari.com/collections/humaCN
Growing in size and stature, the 2019 edition of opti – the German trade fair – offered a vast experience of eyewear from all corners of the earth. It’s hard to know where to start and where to look, and 3 days was barely sufficient to discover the most interesting design directions and innovations of the year.
Our focus was drawn particularly to artisan works addressing a purposeful design thinking, where natural materials are highlighted, incorporated with other materials, and inspiring an extraordinarily interesting study into surfaces and finishes – as in other design disciplines.
Above: Rigards – by Ti Kwa – continues to explore new ways to work with unusual materials. Their gorgeous copper patina finishes are now available in a variety of ‘rust’ and jasper/jade colorations and combinations with the signature miniature lock-in sun clip. Pictured – Model RG1911CU / for Ziggy Chen. www.rigards.com
In a new departure, using wood and metal, Spanish label Nina Mûr pays homage to deconstructivism and the maximum exponent of this movement in Spain, The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. The collection consists of two models, Mikel and Izorne (above) in three versions. Following their much loved Memphis inspired collection with Abet Laminati, the Deseraiki launch represents a mature and refined release marked by constructive nuances, textures and materials. www.ninamur.com
Italian label Pugnale has an interesting collection for 2019, following their excellent collaboration in 2018 with architect Hani Rashid. The extensive range this year includes multiple materials such as buffalo horn, leather, mother of pearl and precious silks and several eye-catching pieces such as the square Esaedro which has a metal insert on the bridge. www.pugnaleeyewear.com
Hapter from Italy has an exciting year ahead. A patented hinge – the 8-GON hinge – previewed at opti for the very first time – is to be introduced through the collections. Their extraordinary work with surfaces – in tactile rubber and carefully selected fabric – continues to place them at the forefront of the design led companies in eyewear. www.hapter.it
In the fast growing field of 3d printed eyewear (there are already more than 40 3D printed brands we are aware of), opti offered an expansive overview of the current directions: from the sculptured “creative” look of Impressio (www.impressio.lu) to the minimal luxe of Gotti Dimension (www.gotti.ch) high-precision range in Polyamide and Rolf Spectacles’ new 3d printed titanium Skyline collection – which is printed, with additive manufacturing techniques, in Germany and hand finished in Austria. Rolf’s second Skyline edition offers fine silhouettes in natural colours with textured surfaces that are perfectly in tune with the focus on tactile, “raw” earthy finishes. www.rolf-spectacles.com
The opti boxes are always an ideal location to find new ideas. The collective ‘We are Annu’ were a highlight amongst the start-ups with their paper clip inspired glasses made “half by machine and half by hand”. The innovation lies in the easy modular construction of the frames – made of 3D printed nylon fronts with titanium wire temples (in 3 colour choices) and put together with a simple screwless hinge concept; not forgetting an attentive focus on fit with customizable nose pads and temples. It comes as no surprise that an independent optician is among the co-founders. More details at: www.weareannu.com
Eyestylist.com will identify other key trends discovered at opti in the edits we have coming up through Spring 2019. opti munich returns in January 2020 – save the date -10th to 12th January – www.opti.de CN