Arts + travel

Hollywood Costume

An Essential Tool of Cinema Storytelling

1st October 2012 Fashion takes its cue from many sources, and frequently it is the cinema. Over one hundred of the most iconic costumes designed for unforgettable cinema characters go on display this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The collection is a dazzling statement of cinema fashion from classics such as The Wizard of Oz (1939), Gone With the Wind (1939), the memorable ‘little black dress’ designed by Hubert de Givenchy for Holly Golightly (Audrey Hepburn) in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), plus Titanic (1997), and Elizabeth: The Golden Age (2007), amongst others.

Elizabethian Glamour – Elizabeth: The Golden Age 2007

The exhibition is meticulously researched, with the clothes placed in their original context, alongside interviews with Hollywood costume designers, directors, and actors, talking about the role costume plays in creating a character. Sourcing, identifying and securing objects required tracking leads worldwide during the past five years. Sir Christopher Frayling, guest curator, said: “The design of costumes for films is a distinctive form of design, which is often taken for granted or misunderstood. This V&A exhibition presents the ideal opportunity to set the record straight – and will do so in the most spectacular way.”

 

Hollywood Costume Victoria & Albert Museum London 20 October 2012 through 27 January 2013. More details at www.vam.ac.uk JG

Photos: Titanic 20 Century Fox/Paramount/The Kobal Collection

Elizabeth: The Golden Age Universal/Working Title/The Kobal Collection/Greg Williams

 

Chanel’s Little Black Jacket Exhibition, London

11th September 2012 Chanel’s exhibition dedicated to Karl Lagerfeld’s latest book, The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s classic revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld, opens at the Saatchi Gallery in London in October. There is much talk about it given its success in other cities including Tokyo and New York.

The exhibition illustrates the versatility and timelessness of the iconic Chanel jacket, through Karl Lagerfeld’s 113 photographs, modelled on a variety of friends of the Fashion House, with each personality adapting the garment to reflect their own inimitable style – worn as a cape on singer Lily Allen, draped around model Stella Tennant, or transformed into a vest on Edie Campbell. The book will be available in bookshops in the autumn. (Pictured above, Charlotte Casiraghi in Chanel).

Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road, London SW3 4RY. Exhibition runs from Friday 12th October to 28th October 2012.

Opening hours: 10am to 6pm, 7 days a week. Last entry 5.30pm. www.thelittleblackjacket.chanel.com CN

Stars in Dior

Legends: Christian Dior and Screen Stars

1st September 2012 Christian Dior’s childhood home – which he adored – is now a charming museum, and the setting for Stars in Dior, a fascinating exhibition that traces cinema stars who loved and lived in Dior designs. Marlene Dietrich, (photo above: Dietrich in a Dior costume for the film No Highway in the Sky 1951) Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren, Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, Brigitte Bardot and Olivia de Havilland were dedicated fans of Dior fashions. More recently, film luminaries Marion Cotillard, Sharon Stone, and Isabelle Adjani, among others, have appeared on the ‘red carpet’ in Dior, as well as choosing the clothes for personal wear. The exhibition is an assemblage of the designs, plus amazing photos of the screen stars in Dior.

 

Jean Seberg photographed at The Dior Boutique Paris about 1960

The impact of Dior’s home, “Les Rhumbs”  – located on a cliff, overlooking the sea in Granville, Normandy, not far from Mont St.Michel,  – influenced the designer all his life. He wrote in his autobiography Christian Dior et Moi – “I have most tender and amazed memories…..I would even say that my life and my style owe almost everything to its site and architecture.” Fashion historians will delight in the beautiful book that was published by Rizzoli New York in conjunction with the exhibition: Stars in Dior – with contributions by Florence Müller and Serge Toubiana, director de la Cinémathèque française. More information at www.musee-dior-granville.com JG

Photos: Marlene Dietrich – Photofest

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Kurhaus The Hague

Nostalgic Elegance on The North Sea

26th August 2012 When I mentioned to a Dutch friend that I was going to the Hague, he said “oh, you must visit Kurhaus – and you’ll want to stay!” He was so right! Officially called the Steigenberger Kurhaus Hotel of The Hague, this grand hotel’s history goes back nearly two hundred years. A five-star establishment, the rooms are refreshing and sleek, and equipped with all mod cons. The Kurzaal restaurant is the showpiece – it was originally a concert hall, and it’s a beautiful setting from breakfast to a romantic dinner, with the beautiful glass Kurhaus Dome, frescos and 19th century paintings in full view above this tranquil oasis. As a former concert hall, the acoustics are superb, and enhance the daily live music. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to sample the culinary excellence (a good reason to return!)

 

The magnificent Kurzaal at Kurhaus Hotel in The Hague

With its delightful beachfront location – this is an ideal destination for an end of summer getaway, a lovely escape with historical notes of The Gilded Age, and its many leisurely, nostalgic pleasures. www.kurhaus.nl JG

 

 

Fashion: A History of the 20th Century

Style Icons of an Epic Era

1st August 2012  At the beginning of the 20th century, women’s clothing was corseted and mobility was limited with long, flowing and layered skirts. By the end of the century, a revolution had taken place, including natural free shaping. Fashion – A History of the 20th Century beautifully illustrates through text and stunning photos  the enormous changes that took place, and explores the influence that designers such as Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, Mario Fortuny, Yves Saint Laurent and many more, demonstrated over the decades.  The impressive assortment of distinctive designs, plus hats, bags, shoes has been collected by The Kyoto Costume Institute. This is an inspirational and informative book for fashion and social history enthusiasts. Published by TASCHEN www.taschen.com JG

Christian Dior photo (below) copyright Takashi Hatakeyama

 

 

1950’s Elegance: silk taffeta wave-pattern print by Christian Dior 1956