Boutiques

Wilde Store, Barcelona

25th April 2012 Barcelona is one place I know like the back of my hand. But that was in the 1990s, and these days stores and bars and boutiques there are changing all the time…for vintage, my first stop today would be Wilde Store (www.wildestore.com), a very cool little place (there are two branches) to find quality vintage frames, from brands like Cazal, Persol, Lacoste and Silhouette, from the 1950s through to the 90s. The frames have been sourced across the world over several years. I have found them by chance through my brother, and I’m delighted to see what they are doing.

As well as its vintage frames, Wilde is also dedicated to the handcrafting trend…the store is launching its own sunglasses label this season, made on the premises by Carlos Azuaje and colleague Tepo, who have a passion for the artisanal qualities of traditional eyewear. Carlos explains, “The first Wilde Sunglasses collection is made by hand from Mazzucchelli acetate with metal accents. We are revisiting the old techniques of the 1950s, and producing in very small quantities per colour. All our work is done exclusively in our workshop in Barcelona, we are making our ideas a reality!”

As if this were not enough, the store has also created WSkin by Wilde, handmade felt and leather cases and covers (for iPhones, iPads and eyewear)  made with love and attention to detail. Their videos of the work they put in are superb, I’m a fan! CN www.wildeskin.com/showcase/index.php/fabricacion

Wilde Store, Barcelona
Oscar in Grey, by Wilde Sunglasses (Euros 150)

Wilde Store, c/Joaquin Costa, 2, Barcelona 08001, Spain

Wilde Store, c/ Avinyo, 21 Barcelona, 08002, Spain

http://wildestore.com/

La Galerie de Lunettes

Architectural Optical Gem Opens in Paris

16th April 2012 La Galerie de Lunettes is a delightful optical boutique find in the trendy Canal St. Martin area. Opened just two months ago, knowledgeable and charming opticians Marie-Charlotte and Jessica offer clients a warm welcome to the architecturally pleasing shop. The artistically thought out interior was created by the Parisian firm Dumazer-Lafallisee (www.dumazer-lafallisse.com), owned by Marie-Charlotte’s sister, so La Galerie is very much a family affair. Smooth, quality maple wood enhances the airy feeling of the boutique. There is a ‘gallery of mirrors’ on one wall – a beautiful collection of various shaped mirrors, found in markets and antique shops. A cornucopia of the most sought after designer frames are featured: LGR, Thierry Lasry, Prism, Graz, Lunettes Kollektion, Garrett Leight, l.a. eyeworks, Waiting for the Sun, and more. The very newest styles from these collections are available, and the selection is varied and vast. La Galerie de Lunettes is the perfect destination for personalised optical service, haute-style, and a charming atmosphere. www.lagaleriedelunettes.com JG

Silver Lining Opticians, Soho, New York

1st April 2012 This is the first place I’d be heading on my next trip to NY. These guys are so well known for their vintage frames and hand picked selection of contemporary styles, and their store showcases their passion for superb eyewear. The shop is run by Erik Sacher, a licensed optician and Jordan Silver, an expert in vintage eyewear. We talked to Jordan about the store and the vintage  particularly, which includes iconic sunglasses from the past (this is where Jennifer Aniston bought her vintage Persol Ratti’s last month) and a wide selection of carefully chosen pieces from the 1960s to the 1980s.

Asked to explain the ethos of the store, Jordan explained: “Silver Lining Opticians sells only independent, handmade, contemporary brands and vintage frames.  We don’t carry anything with decorative rivets or spring hinges.  This limits the frames we can carry, but we put quality and craftsmanship before all else.  We are located in Soho and cater to a wide range of people including artists, business people, and celebrities.”

How long have you been specialists in vintage? Do you source your own vintage frames?  “We’ve been sourcing vintage since before we opened in 2007.  We do source our own frames. Customers see vintage frames as representing something that is rare, and not available for mass consumption and it usually represents better quality.”

You come across as very creative opticians. How do you ensure customers find what they want, vintage or otherwise? “It’s about education.  Teaching people what luxury eyewear really is and isn’t.  To us it isn’t a logo on the temple.”

Interior, Silver Lining

Which are your favourite vintage sunglasses for this year? Persol, Vuarnet, Mikli, Balenciaga, and Ray-Ban.

Which trends in new collections are selling well in New York and why is that? “Collections that sell well for us have qualities similar to mid-century plastic frames.  They are hand made, hand riveted, and hand polished.

Tell us about your own line and how that came about? “Our own line is a work in progress.  We currently produce eight styles exclusive to Silver Lining Opticians.  It’s a super fun experience to design based on our tastes in vintage.  We have styles we’ve been saving for years to tweak and make our own.  We’ll be ramping up production in the coming year to offer wholesale.”

Ray-Ban Wayfarer II by Bausch & Lomb in black, vintage model available online from Silver Lining

 

What are your recommendations for buying vintage sunglasses? “Feel the frames.  Go into a sunglass store and try on glasses, then try on some vintage, or high quality, non-licensed product.  That’s usually all one needs.”

Silver Lining Opticians, own label. Model Helium in black gloss

Silver Lining Opticians, 92 Thompson Street, New York, NY 10012

For the online boutique, visit http://silverliningopticians.com 

Les Artisans Lunetiers Paris, France

Libraries and Books are Inspiration for Boutique

21st March 2012 Literary Paris glows with memorable writers – Marcel Proust, Alexandre Dumas, Honore Balzac, Alfred Musset and Jean-Paul Sartre – to mention a few. Women shine too – Colette, Françoise Sagan, Simone de Beauvoir, and in the 18th century, the often criticised, but highly intelligent and entertaining Madame de Staël. Their works still grace bookshelves – and Kindles – to this day.

So it was this aspect of history – writers, books and libraries – that launched Les Artisans Lunetiers, a charming “bijou” eyewear boutique on The Left Bank – the spiritual home for writers. The shop is the concept of opticians Christian Mathurier and his sister Laure, and features a tantalizing mix of retro and modern frames, including Waiting for the Sun, Lafont, and Beausoleil, among others. The atmosphere is that of a cosy library. If prose – as well as glasses – is your passion, a favourite quote, a little word or line of poetry can be engraved onto the frame temples. The engraving is done on site, in the first floor atelier. Customers are invited to choose their own quote, or avail themselves of noted author’s quotes.  A memorable gift idea! www.lesartisanslunetiers.fr JG

L’Osservatorio, Italy

An Italian eyewear adventure

1st March 2012 L’Osservatorio is a must-see for anyone who loves good frames….there are branches in Milan, Finale Ligure, Alassio and Mondovi (pictured above)…of which we have been to the Milan store and warmly recommend it to anyone going to Mido next week. We spoke to Alfio, director at the Milan branch.

“The Milan shop (Corso Porta Ticinese 83), like our other three stores, was designed by the architect Andrea Meirana. The overall design is inspired by Donal Judd, one of the most significant American artists associated with Minimalism. The concept of the shop is not simply to present a window display showing objects, but rather a “lieu” that treasures and protects the unique qualities of the products it presents. The frames are treated as works of art, and that is why they are placed on glass shelves or special fabrics…in a setting that recalls a jewellery display.”

The Milan shop, like our other two stores, stock very exclusive eyewear lines, including Frency & Mercury, Theo, Mykita, Linda Farrow and collaborations, Lunor, Reiz and Retrospecs, among others.

According to owner of the stores, Gabriele Evangelisti: “My philosophy is that the choice of a pair of glasses in our shops does not end with the purchase, the important story that lies behind each object continues even beyond the contact between the frame and the person who chooses it. The frame becomes a part of the personality of the person wearing it, a distinctive mark, an emotion…My dream is to always have more customers that share my passion for eyewear.”

Does the Italian public have an interest in more unusual brands? “We get a very positive response. The mentality in Italy is that many people are conditioned by famous brands. This is mainly because many of the world famous fashion brands are Italian. In the last year the trends have changed and people now are less keen to spend money only for a brand, they look more and more for the quality of a product. Customers today are also more interested in distinguishing themselves from others and looking more original.

Mondovi store interior

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