1st March 2014 Etienne Frederiks and Jolana Reinink of Hall of Frame in Holland share with Eyestylist the history of their boutique.
“We opened the shop in 2008,” says Frederiks, “and Jolanda and I (above photo) wanted to start a little boutique where we could sell things we liked ourselves. In Utrecht, in the middle of the country, there was no such place. We were fantasising about this over a coffee, when we saw a broker hanging up a “For Rent” sign in this beautiful location. Without a plan, we decided to start at that very moment, and agreed with the agent to rent the place. We only wanted to sell what we liked ourselves, and the best brands for us at the moment are Garrett Leight and Suzy Glam. We also love other brands with a strong identity like Mykita, Moscot and Lunettes Kollektion. In addition to this, our collection of vintage frames is getting better and bigger.
“For the interior, we searched ourselves for some unique furniture. We wanted an interior that looks exclusive – but accessible. More a fashion store than an optical shop. We are always the first in the Netherlands showing the newest Moscot collection and often we are the only shop in the Netherlands with some limited editions. And of course, we stock the entire Suzy Glam collection. (Etienne’s partner is Suzy Glam designer Susanne Klemm).
“Retro is still the big thing, but a lot of these styles can be bought now at internet shops or chains. So we are looking for new shapes – metal and acetate combinations, good fittings for different faces, and real good design. For us, business is good, but it’s a pity most opticians don’t choose a specific direction – independent shops suit independent labels.” www.hallofframe.eu JG
Jérémy Tarian
1st March 2014 His tall, lithe figure is silhouetted against Parisian landmark buildings – Eglise Saint Germain des Près, and Aux Deux Magots – the latter the favourite café of Jean-Paul Satre, Simone de Beauvoir and other literary luminaries. In his own metier, Jérémy is an eyewear designer of international acclaim. Paris is an inspriation for Tarian – The Left Bank being a favourite and familiar haunt, while The Marais is another source of energy and reference. Streets, buildings, and history all inspire his work. But so do travel, people, museums, nature, architecture – in fact – life itself.
We settle comfortably at Deux Magots, and over delicious coffee, Jérémy relates his eyewear odyssey. “I designed my first fame for myself, as ‘revenge’ because I needed to wear glasses from the age of eight.” However, his “revenge” evolved into a continuing unbridled passion for eyewear. He worked at ic! berlin for two years – where he won his first Silmo d’Or – before setting up his own business three years ago. In 2012 he captured his second Silmo d’Or – the eyewear equivalent of a Bafta or Oscar trophy – for his sunglass design Saintonge. Tarian’s sunglasses and optical frames can now be found in over 200 boutiques worldwide.
How does his design process work? “When I design, I really need to concentrate only on design, and I find this more and more necessary. I just cannot say ‘oh well, I’ll take an hour and design'”, explains Tarian. He also finds his master classes in eyewear design at HEAD (Geneva University of Art and Design/Switzerland) have a reflection in his work. “I find that working with the students opens me to new ideas. Glasses are not just a product, but also a personality on the face. I find that talking with the students, and listening to their stories, who are from all over the world, comes into my thinking.
Tarian draws each line, curve and detail of a frame design, and he says: “My designs now are very different from when I began five years ago. I focus more on comfort, and I can see how just one millimetre can change everything. Harmony is important – how the shape will fit on the face. I love working in acetate and metal, and there are so many things to explore with these two materials. For the collection in the autumn, we are experimenting with new textures, using these two elements.” The Tarian Collection is also eco-friendly, and only the finest quality acetate is used in his designs.
“For independent designers, it’s so important to keep independent in terms of product, and to explain the brand philosophy,” says Tarian. His original, unique and desirable frames contribute to making eyewear such an exciting accessory with creative design and style. www.jeremytarian.com JG
Obsession
Lafont Paris
This very elegant frame masterfully mixes a retro spirit with haute technology. Stainless steel is superbly crafted in Obsession by Lafont Paris, and softened with gentle tri-colour aqua tones. A special handmade gradient coating adds to the beauty, style and sophistication of the design. Click on www.lafont.com for more information on their new collection. JG
Artisanal excellence
is our pursuit at Eyestylist, and this month we feature eyewear and accessories crafted with skill and originality. We’ll also preview glamorous frames that will debut in Milan. In REVIEWS discover alluring optical frames, and check out BOUTIQUES for a stunning seaside Polish eyewear destination. We love accessories of all sorts and in Designer of the Month, meet a bespoke shoe creator. Visit CITY GUIDES for information on exhibitions, books and cultural events. Click and stay with Eyestylist for international eyewear and accessory highlights!
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The Rolf Universe
A Visit to Rolf Spectacles in the Tyrol
26th February 2014 From the first moment I met members of the Rolf team in Paris nearly five years ago, I was intrigued with these unconventional designers. This was their first show, and their “raison d’être” was to present a wooden frame. But….not just any wooden frame. this was a design with superb, beautifully sculpted craftsmanship, extremely professional, and it fit like a dream. The Rolf team (founders Roland Wolf, his partner Marija Lljazovic, her brother Martin, and Christian Wolf) had spent three years perfecting their perception of an elegant wooden frame, in the basement home of Roland and Christian’s father. Others were captivated too – Rolf Spectacles immediately won a Silmo d’Or, and people were intrigued with the beauty and construction of the design.
Discovering more of their unusual approach to eyewear over the years became evermore fascinating. With great anticipation I looked forward to visiting their headquarters in The Tyrol in Austria. Rolf had successfully emerged from the basement gathering international clients and more awards, to become an important player on the global eyewear scene. Nestled in the mountains, the outside of the sprawling Rolf structure looks like many commercial sites; however, enter the building, and a new universe unfolds – the Rolf World of amazing eyewear. The office dogs Jeremy and Lola add to the overall cosiness and casualness of the premises. However, behind this carefree ambience, is a team of extremely dedicated and hardworking people, committed to making superior handcrafted frames. There is a delightful camaraderie among the staff, and a purposeful atmosphere in the air.
Meticulous attention to detail is evident in the creation of each frame. The gluing room is acclimatized; sanding is done to perfection; and the quality control is evident with each frame microchipped so it can be monitored if necessary. Employees are trained over a period of several months to develop the skills and concentration that are required in producing the frames. The Rolf team makes most of the tools themselves used in creating the frames, while even humble instruments like tweezers also play an important role in the final product.
Mary Lljazovic is a construction engineer, which has served her well in developing the frames. “When we started making the frames, we thought we would stay in the cellar,” says Mary, “as we didn’t know what the reaction of the market would be. When the business began to grow, we had temporary offices: but it’s necessary to have enough space to build a structure, and work on research and development. We did it all, so we know what is involved. It used to be organised chaos, but now we are more structured.”
Nature and conservation are vital ingredients in everything Rolf pursues. Nothing goes to waste in the Rolf environment; a purpose is found for everything. “We like to influence people in a positive way,” says Bernie Wolf, who joined the family business as sales director, “and travelling so much I see the pollution in places like China. We are lucky to live in a country like Austria where people look after things.” Collecting and restoring old cars is a Rolf hobby. “We love classic cars,” Mary explains, “and every frame is inspired by a vintage car, including the technical features and design. There can be a lot of stress, but it would be boring if everything worked well all the time!” she says with a laugh.
“To break the stress, I take time with the horses and the dogs; think about the frames, and then it comes naturally. The frames are our passion, our love. We want to present wood in a new way; and it took almost three years to get the frames the way we wanted. The Rolf customer is between 18 and 85 years of age. We have a broad spectrum, so it is proof that the collection is well designed.”
To the original wood designs, Rolf has added incredible frames in stone. The Rolf legend continues to grow and expand. Roland Wolf says: “I’m a crazy guy; I like to try new things and it’s fun to experiment. You know, I can do the glasses, but I still don’t know how to work a cell phone!” www.rolf-spectacles.com JG