Creative spirits

Leisure Society Designer Inspired by Life

June 2011 A conversation with Shane Baum is always a rewarding experience.  The American  designer of supremely elegant, luxurious Leisure Society, has astute viewpoints on eyewear, design and business that he shares with Eyestylist.

Design philosophy: “I don’t rely on the eyewear industry for inspiration, but search in other creatively driven industries.  Furniture design, watch manufacturers and electronic products often inspire me.  I also feel it is important to be honest with yourself.  As a ‘designer’, you must reflect and disassociate yourself from your finished drawings, and judge them with harsh cynicism.  My best design decisions often involve a trash can and fresh sheets of paper.”

Preferred materials: “I like working in gold-plated titanium.  It is such a luxurious material and completely inert.  It lasts forever.  The inherent flexibility of this combination of materials allows one to engrave it, shape it, mould it and texture it in a very detailed manor that permits limitless possibilities. Platinum would be interesting too.  We are working with Tigers Eye, Ruthenium and Buffalo Horn for Spring 2012. History has shown that luxurious materials hold their value better over time.  This is the essence of Leisure Society’s ethos of “Heirloom Design.”

Creative inspiration: “I maintain a ‘child like’ enthusiasm for designing eyewear. The eyewear industry is unique: part fashion; part engineering; and part medical device.  For me, the key to success as a company and as a designer is to create proprietary brand attributes that are distinctly my own, and quality attributes that only reveal themselves systematically over time. It is simply a matter of remaining true to my personal paradigm of open mindedness whilst remaining true to our corporate commitment of excellence and self-involvement.”

The future: “I believe the world is entering a period of reverse globalization  We are noticing a trend towards locally made products crafted by classically trained artisans.  The preservation of cultural traditions is increasingly important to consumers, especially our youth.  This demographic wants meat from a butcher, watches from a watchmaker, and shoes from a cobbler.  For eyewear, a brand focused on quality and innovation should enjoy ‘just rewards’.”

Leisure Society designs are available internationally in high fashion shops and eyewear boutiques.  www.leisure-society.com JG

Inspiration from Palm Springs

Robert Marc has had his own brand since 1999 and is now a leading American eyewear designer with eight shops in New York and one in Boston. His designs are made by hand in France and Japan. No corners are cut when it comes to quality and detail. “As an independent designer, I do whatever it takes to get what I want for the frame and the brand, however painstaking or however long it takes to ensure the production is perfect.”

I have known Robert for a long time and I recently met with him at the Four Seasons in Milan to see the 2011 collection, which is inspired by the desert landscape and modernist architecture of Palm Springs. Robert explains, “On the occasions I have visited Palm Springs, I have always been struck by the linear architecture, the straight lines and surprising pops of colour; but also the nature around me, the plants, cacti and incredible smoke tree. It is an unusual place, with an energy that I wanted to evoke in this year’s collection.”

With a subtle approach to colour, Robert uses bright yet natural colour tones, as well as some of his favourite classics, including Havana and tortoise.

“Colour was always an important element of the architecture in Palm Springs, and in this collection I have used colour, both contrasting and complimentary, to bring out the graphic potential in the clean-lined design of the frames. I also layered temples with contrasting bright colours creating a vibrant energy that is in perfect tune with modernism.” In this collection, the women’s shapes are as Robert describes slightly “man-tailored” with subtle lines and a vintage flavour coming through, and of course occasionally an extremely feminine catseye or butterfly. For men, there is a reminder of Hollywood and the 1950s, with deep shapes such as those worn by Cary Grant, rounded designs with an intellectual air, and the ever popular classically defined aviator. All models sport the Robert Marc trademark hinge, which is instantly distinguishable as a mark of the brand, whilst serving its crucial role to provide ease-of-wear and absolute comfort at the temple. CN

www.robertmarc.com

Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses / Claire Goldsmith Legacy

Claire is her usual bubbly self when I speak to her for this feature before the optical fair Mido. She is about 7 months pregnant with her second child, but despite having to delay a few long-haul travel arrangements, she is as busy and excited as ever about business and new projects, as well as looking forward to being a mum of 2! “I feel like I’m having my third baby! The business is so important to me, and I am very protective about it and every new step we take,” she explains. Claire Goldsmith is the great granddaughter of Oliver Goldsmith, one of the most influential designers of spectacles and sunglasses, who designed for a mass of celebrities, from 1926 through to the 70s and 80s…Princess Diana, Audrey Hepburn (the Audrey style “Manhattan” from Breakfast at Tiffany’s has just been re-released) and Michael Caine…and the list goes on and on. Claire opened Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses in 2005 and now has her own flagship store in the hub of London’s Notting Hill. The newly renovated shop offers the full offering of OG styles, plus the latest additions, including Claire’s first brand in her own name, Claire Goldsmith Legacy. It also houses the archives of Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses, including a huge, unique collection of frame styles which span decades of eyewear history and fashion.

Claire Goldsmith Legacy – classic with a twist

Launched in 2010, CG Legacy is a collection of spectacles designed by the new team Claire has put together; it’s the expression of their enthusiasm for eyewear, born out of working with the OG archive, but embodying their own new design ideas in the present day. “We launched Legacy in 2010. I felt it was time I had my own line after many years dedicated to perfecting the reissue of OG vintage classics. I have the same DNA as my great grandfather but we are not the same person, so it was time to put my own mark on eyewear with my own line. We will have a total of 20 styles in the range from this March, 6 of these will be launched in Milan at Mido. We are growing Legacy at a calm, steady rate. It suits a slightly younger customer than the pure vintage OG concept, with its colours which are fun, and the designs which are really out there! I am working on new materials for Legacy, I am exploring different metals and titanium for the first time, it’s really a new departure for us and an evolving one. (more…)

Butcher Couture

Babou brings an intriguing international background to her designs for Butcher Couture – leather frames that are created with her philosophy of “Slow Design”. That is the term that the designer uses for her framecreations that are made with traditional manufacturing processes, and working with skilled craftspeople and artisans. She is also an avid believer in using natural materials whenever possible, and likes to design frames that merge both style and functionality.

I had the pleasure of meeting the personable and charming designer last summer in Paris, and was impressed not only with her innovative frames, but her philosophy and unconventional approach to frame design.

Babou was born in the Democratic Republic of Congo, but grew up primarily in the UK, and attended University in England. She now divides her time between Oslo and London, perfecting her craft of Optical Tailoring in frames, which are made in France – giving a global flavour to her products.

She emphasises that the overall focus of Butcher Couture is to offer design, quality and to evoke timelessness. In addition to frames available in boutiques, customers are able to purchase and commission frames on a made-to-order basis, and clients can choose from a selection of leathers, threads and various finishes. “I’ve always enjoyed a love affair with leather, which I believe is inherently linked to my love of all things craft and artisan,” she says, “and since starting Butcher Couture in 2007, my passion for leather is a crescendo into somewhat of a full blown obsession. (more…)