Design + Inspiration

The past makes a lovely present

This delightful slogan appears on a shopping bag from the Wien Museum in Vienna Austria, and ideally relates to the 90th birthday of Oliver Goldsmith – the celebrated British Heritage eyewear company. Claire Goldsmith, the dynamic, resourceful, energetic and enthusiastic director, believes that “the best is yet to come. We fully intend to make the next decade more important than any other.” Claire (above) has graciously granted an exclusive interview to Eyestylist on OG’s potential insights and plans for the next decade…as they elegantly march towards their Centennial Anniversary.

Tortoise Split by Oliver Goldsmith
Tortoise Split by Oliver Goldsmith

In your opinion, why has vintage – eyewear styles from the 1950’s, 60’s etc. – continued to be so in demand? “They say out of adversity comes innovation, and the war years brought about huge adversity. What came off the back of that were decades of huge innovation in many walks of life. In the design world, everything from eyewear to car design and furniture to architecture – it’s all remained relevant from that period, and I think that comes down to what was going on in people’s lives at that time. Post war optimism and the feeling that anything was possible. Nothing had yet been done. Quite unlike how we feel today! Saying that, I see some designs coming out of new companies that I truly believe will stand the test of time themselves, and in sixty years from now will be hailed as vintage classics from 2016!

"I love the INGEMA - the feel of it"
“I love the INGEMA – the feel of it”

What are some of the differences between the OG frames created sixty-seventy years ago – and today? “To be honest we try hard to make no differences. There are some things like lens technology which has come a long way with improvement. We also have access to things like hypo allergenic hinges – but we make them in the old pinned hinge style! The Oliver Goldsmith brand is about clean and classic styling, and I don’t see us straying from that. The old saying ‘they don’t make ’em like they used to!’ does not apply to Oliver Goldsmith.

The OGLE "handmade in England to order...but watch this space."
The OGLE “handmade in England to order…but watch this space.”

Are you planning any special celebrations or events for the 90th Anniversary of OG? “We have had a great year doing small events around the world to mark this special birthday, but as we draw closer to the completion of that year, we are focused on the new decade ahead of us. As a 4th generation Goldsmith heading up this side of the business, I want to ensure that the next ten years in the lead up to the company’s centennial celebration, we create and produce some collections which show that we still set the standard. We have so much planned already in terms of design and development of a new collection called OG DECADES. But I can’t say any more about that right now. We also have tonnes of new treatments planned for the much loved OG ICONS collection – a bunch of characters in their own right. The OG FAMILY collection is also continuing to grow with new relatives joining the line up each season. So really the message is let’s start the new Decade! 100 here we come!”

What is your favourite OG frame and why? “That’s like asking which of my children I love most! I have a couple of favourites: I love the Y-NOT because it’s just a total statement frame and it’s so OG! I love the OGLE – but we have never put it into production. Its only ever been handmade in England to order. I might consider it for ready to wear – watch this space – but I LOVE this frame. I love the INGEMA – the feel of it. It’s got 3-dimensional hand built temples. It was originally made for Michael Caine in the IPCRESS FILE. It’s another design that has only ever been handmade in England to order.”

OG: Goldside Editions Lord sunglasses
OG: Goldside Editions Lord Sunglasses

This month Claire launches the stunning OG: Goldside Editions – with two defining designs from the family archive – Manhattan and Lord. The Limited Edition of only 500 pieces will be made in raw black and gold, with flat gold flash mirror sun lens – to mark the end of one OG decade and the start of another. Happy 90th Birthday Oliver Goldsmith! Discover more at www.olivergoldsmith.com JG

Nonconformist eyewear: RIGARDS

Sculptural details crafted into amazing shapes, and sci-fi aesthetics, characterise the spirited collection that RIGARDS by Ti Kwa will present at Silmo 23rd-26th September in Paris. The designs are bold and strong, yet surprisingly light, and extremely comfortable to wear – the secret…hollow-back construction. Nuance, mystery and glamour are key in RIGARDS RG0080AL Metalloid Black (above). Creative shaping enhances the rich, über-cool dynamic in the sunglasses.

RIGARDS RG0080 Horn Marble Sanjuro
RIGARDS RG0080 Horn Marble Sanjuro

Dramatic flourish in horn brings new flair and originality to designs. Signature finishes and daring craftsmanship are vividly expressed in RIGARDS RG0080 Horn Marble Sanjuro (above).

RIGARDS RG0080AL Metalloid Chrome
RIGARDS RG0080AL Metalloid Chrome

Optical flair with a dashing fluid shape highlights RG0080AL Metalloid Chrome. Expressive…Bespoke…Nonconformist…expect the wonderfully unexpected with RIGARDS. www.rigards.com JG

 

Timeless and authentic: genuine horn

More than two decades ago when Sven Götti started designing eyewear, his first frame was in bona fide horn. “I love to work with this material, and I know people appreciate the product. This target group has found its personal style, and seeks the appropriate accessory to emphasise their individual character. They appreciate sophisticated, high-quality designs,” says the Swiss designer. Above photo: Borg in grey natural horn

Handcrafted by artisans: Götti horn frames
Handcrafted by artisans: Götti horn frames

Genuine horn has been used in eyewear since the middle of the 15th century. The horn featured in Götti frames is ethically and ecologically produced from Asian water buffaloes that are kept as farm animals. Nowadays, technological improvements ensure that horn eyewear is even more durable. Specialists create the frames entirely by hand – so each pair is a one-of-a-kind treasure.

Götti horn polished to a unique sheen
Götti horn polished to a unique sheen

The frames are incredible works of art, crafted with passion, diligence and love of detail. It takes three days to refine the surface with polishing paster and wood elements, and the frame finish achieves its unique sheen from an expertly trained artisan’s hand in a small German atelier. “Besides stylish creations, customers also appreciate sustainability,” observes Götti. The elegant authentic horn collection by Götti will be presented at Silmo 23rd-26th September. More Götti innovations at www.gotti.ch www.silmoparis.com JG

Trends and technical triumphs

Autumn highlights international fashion and accessory shows, and eyewear buyers, enthusiasts and consumers will want to indulge in the new season’s inspirations. Originality, style savvy, and exciting technical improvements are expressed throughout the collections. Vancouver, British Columbia is resplendent with natural beauty – a seaport city surrounded by mountains – and the home of Canadian designer Mehran Baghaie at Spectacle Eyeworks. His latest collection includes the elegant maple leaf as muse, with stunning results.

The pattern on the frame demonstrates nature’s amazing maple leaf intricacies. “I wanted to make the colours as reminiscent as possible to give the sensation of the flow of change in the life cycle of the maple leaf,” says the designer. Crafted in stainless steel in Germany, Joryne (above) features a vintage cat-eye silhouette with multiple technical elements. www.spec-eyeworks.com

Genie by Lafont
Genie by Lafont

Retro designs – in eyewear, fashion and for the home – continue to fascinate. For over ninety years, Lafont has been creating eyewear with elegance, charm and Parisian chic. A frame that the family firm created in 1980 – the iconic optical design Genie (above) is now available in a sleek sunglass version in gorgeous colourations, including blue variations reminiscent of the sea. www.lafont.com

Leaving Cuckoo's Nest by Anna-Karin Karlsson
Leaving Cuckoo’s Nest by Anna-Karin Karlsson

Dramatic, free-spirited, majestic and romantic eyewear is the theme at Anna-Karin Karlsson. The award-winning Swedish designer brings glamour and sophistication to her frames, evident in Leaving Cuckoo’s Nest in glossy black acetate with gold flecks, black Swarovski crystals on the temples, and gold-plated end tips. Stunning! www.annakarinkarlsson.com

GEO III by Smoke x Mirrors
GEO III by Smoke x Mirrors

The GEO collection by New York brand Smoke x Mirrors features ultra-light mixed material frames with sharp, geometric angles. The innovative frame shapes in stainless steel and acetate with flat lenses, unite technical qualities and craftsmanship, in desirable designs for men and women, and includes GEO III (above). More news at www.smokexmirrors.com All the brands featured here will be at Silmo – 23rd to 26th September at Villepinte. www.silmoparis.com JG

Show preview: Silmo approaches

Expectations are running high for exciting trends, original colour combinations and new-found inspirations for pattern and details. As the international eyewear fair Silmo (www.silmoparis.com) draws near our attention is on the finest sunglass and optical collections, and highlights that spark new beginnings and a fresh perspective for the frame wearer.

At JF Rey, the eyewear design label from Marseille, uplifting colour is the central focus in a visual series entitled Life is Color: the optical frame JF1402 (above) is a new combination of metal and acetate with a casual feminine elegance, and smart easy -to-wear eye shape. Further information at www.jfrey.fr

Jono Hennessy 8388
Jono Hennessy 8388

Australian designer Jono Hennessy always brings warmth and vibrancy to the Paris show. Their preview of frames highlights exotic Mazzucchelli acetates: inspired by the Australian landscape with matt stone finishes, opal like stripes and exciting tones reminiscent of desert sunsets. Pictured is model 8388, a typical example of Hennessy’s magical irridescent colour schemes where the graduated look comes into its own. www.jonohennessy.com

Moondance by MONOQOOL
Moondance by Monoqool

As 3D printing grows in popularity, so are the eyewear collections using this sophisticated technology, which offers endless possibilities for lightweight design and a multitude of colour and shape proposals. Denmark’s Monoqool presents its new collections for Silmo: model Moondance in charcoal grey is lightly textured, finely proportioned, and features the standard screwless hinge in this collection: practical, versatile and designed for a nice fit, Monoqool has a talent for balancing tech with stylish design. More details at www.monoqool.com

Saint Martin by Blackfin
Saint Martin by Blackfin

Titanium remains a leading material in the metal eyewear selection, both for its excellence in performance and clean minimal aesthetics. A great range of high-end designs in this material have emerged in recent years, bringing about a consistent fine-tuning in terms of the quality, detailing and finish.

The young Italian eyewear company Blackfin, experts in titanium designed with Italian finesse, will show their range of opticals and sunglasses in Paris – the collection favours rounded shapes and unisex designs such as model Saint Martin (BF769), with its arched double bridge and curved lines in a two-tone combination. Available with a natural shiny or satin titanium finish, the model represents an interesting mix of 1980s influences with modern, high-tech appeal. www.blackfin.eu

Caroline Abram
Ruby by Caroline Abram

Inspiration from nature and a desire for intriguing pattern suggests an ongoing interest in creating effects on the surface of the frame, something to watch for at the eyewear fairs: in the new R Collection, young French designer Caroline Abram plays with the effect of natural leather and python on a nylon frame front: model Ruby in bright blue features signature curvy titanium temples teamed with the bold and  glamorous butterfly shape. www.carolineabram.com

Silmo Paris – the international eyewear and optics fair – takes place from 23rd-26th September at Paris Nord Villepinte. For further details and registration visit www.silmoparis.com CN