Design + Inspiration

Magical Interpretations of the Colour SpectrumPreviews of new season launches indicate that the colour spectrum is absolutely stunning! Bright colourations abound, as well as lovely nuances of deep, rich tones, and subtle mutations. Duo and tri-tone effects provide additional style and flair. SALT. Optics – the California based company – explores the many fascinating aspects of nature, and Eleanor (above) in Dragonfly is a beautiful example. The two-tone acetate design in a contemporary silhouette is handcrafted in Japan. www.saltoptics.com

HAPTER in Italy has launched a striking bi-coloured design – Optical EO4S – with colour both inside and outside the frame. The colourations are chic and sophisticated in muted tones. This is an elegant new feature from Eric Balzan and Mirko Forti, in a design that is suitable for small to regular-size faces. Sophistication and understated luxury are totally aligned in Prime Line, within the txt001 HAPTER collection. www.hapter.it

Benjamin Franklin – one of America’s Founding Fathers – was also a witty man who thrived on work, and according to legend – the inventor of bifocals. Theo in Belgium have creatively – and colourfully – updated Franklin’s invention with a 21st Century version, that enables bifocal wearers to have perfect far away and close up view. Tandem in vibrant shocking pink is for the individualist who won’t settle for less – just like the fascinating Mr. Franklin. www.theo.be

California designers Barbara McReynolds and Gai Gherardi at l.a. Eyeworks debut a multi-faceted collection this month at SILMO Paris in dynamic colours. Pingo in acetate – deliciously named Emerald Lagrassy Fade with Deep Eggplant – features a signature metal browline, with handmade custom epoxy finishes. The latest optical collection from l.a. Eyeworks is a modern exploration of colour and shape. www.laeyeworks.com

Colour vibrations and special surface techniques are emphasised in frames by Face à Face Paris. Selma displays scratched acetate with hand varnishing for a rich, lustrous look in  glossy cherry and teal blue. A modern cat-eye shape adds to the allure and individuality of the design. www.faceaface-paris.com JG

Eyewear Designers at Motorworld

Important dates to note on the October calendar are Saturday and Sunday the 17th and 18th – when major independent eyewear designers present their collections at Motorworld in Stuttgart. Stunning eyewear and an equally distinctive collection of vintage cars at the same venue is an ideal way to enjoy an autumn weekend! Over fifty unique companies – including Götti; Orgreen; Spectacle Eyeworks; Onkel Ferdi; Kirk & Kirk; Bellinger; Joel Lesca; Tavat; and Slav Nowosad among others, will present their latest collections at this outstanding international exposition of creative eyewear.

The Canadian design house Spectacle Eyeworks pays homage to history and heritage with the Cyrus (above) frame. Inspired by the power of the past – and connecting with the present – the temples of each frame are meticulously engraved. Cyrus is named after the Great King of Persia who wrote The Tablet of Cyrus. Designer Mehran Baghaie says: “My Persian roots and family, the visual richness and enigmatic nature of symbolism, as well as the freedom and equality of mankind, continue to be a defining source of influence and inspiration with these new designs.” www.spec-eyeworks.com

Swiss designer Sven Götti has an elegant, deft touch with eyewear materials. His latest collection combines acetate and Titanium, crafted beautifully into Tonky – in a glorious shade of autumn plum. The voluminous shape is remarkably slim and lightweight. www.gotti.ch

Fun details and dashing colours highlight designs at Danish company Bellinger. Bella is a bright tonal mix – colours that are ideal with autumn fashions. www.bellinger.dk

Handcrafted in Italy, Tavat has launched a unique frame – Soupcan Pantos – in red acetate and light gun metal, with great attention to detail – particularly on the nose piece and temples. www.tavat-eyewear.com Save the Dates! 17th and 18th October for Die Brillenmesse in Stuttgart. More info at www.diebrillenmesse.de JG

OG Family 16, coming to Paris

11th September 2015 British designer Claire Goldsmith, great granddaughter of Oliver Goldsmith, announces a new collection of Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses, inspired by details from the OG Icons, the collection that recreates some of the brand’s most famous sunnies. Focusing on single details from the Icons as a starting point, the new “Family” frames play with historic references whilst adding a modern aesthetic in colour and design. It’s the first new OG line in over 30 years.

The frames are named after streets, places and landmarks in London – including significant spots in the city that are dear to Claire and part of everyday OG life.

Friends, family and the Goldsmith children star in the newly released Oliver Goldsmith campaign which highlights the brand’s wonderful British heritage. “I wanted to cast a physical embodiment of our collections,” explains Claire, “with two Icons, two Family and two of our kids featured. The feeling was to be quintessentially British, classy yet a little off kilter, polished and always keeping up appearances a little.”

Oliver Goldsmith exhibits OG Icons, Family and Mini Icons at SILMO Paris from 25th to 28th September 2015. Additional SILMO information at www.silmoparis.com. For more on OG Sunglasses, and the OG boutique in Notting Hill, visit www.olivergoldsmith.com CN

New Arrivals in Luxury Eyewear

New season, new looks, and new style interpretations – autumn pulsates with exciting fashion revelations in clothing, accessories and eyewear. Paris is the setting for SILMO, the eyewear show, and the brands featured here will be presenting their latest collections at the end of the month. Beauty, refinement, precision and technology are the hallmarks of LINDBERG, the multi-award winning Danish company. They will present the newest models in the LINDBERG Strip Collection, including the supremely elegant 9710 – above. www.lindberg.com

A favourite frame of Anna Karin Karlsson and her international clients is the seductive, expressive When Trouble Came to Town. Anna-Karin’s latest luxurious interpretation is in silky black acetate, liberally studded with Swarovski crystals. You can also shop for Anna Karin Karlsson’s stunning designs on line at www.annakarinkarlsson.com

The magic, opulence and mystery of opera have inspired the newest designs from the LIne Art Collection by Charmant. Hand mounted Swarovski crystals are embedded in the temples in style XL2068, and the lightweight Excellence Titan frame is light-as-air to wear. Worthy of a standing ovation! www.charmant.com

Congratulations to Adrian Marwitz, who has been named a winner of the German Design Award 2016. He received a  Special Mention in the category “Lifestyle and Fashion” for the complete Urban Strangers collection. The German Design Award recognises top quality products with outstanding design. Stranger No. 21 – sunglasses in navy blue matt Titanium – combines traditional and modern techniques, with ultra-light finesse. More information at www.adrianmarwitz.com

Daniel Benner enjoys mixing materials and then adding specific accents – as he does with the unique look of Cosmo Duo 19, that unites anthracite stainless steel and sandblasted black acetate. The distinctive frame features a reverse brow bar, and is handcrafted in Stuttgart Germany. www.bennereyeweardesign.com www.silmoparis.com JG

Italian Acetate with Global Accolades

One of the first new words I learned when starting to work in eyewear was “Mazzucchelli.” When designers and companies mentioned quality acetate, it was Mazzucchelli. The company was spoken of with reverence, awe and respect. After many years of admiring the lustrous beauty of Mazzucchelli, there was an opportunity to visit the company’s headquarters  – with a group of delightful Dutch opticians – located in the charming Italian village of Castiglione Olona, near Milan. Res/Rei, who produces all their imaginative designs in Mazzucchelli acetate, graciously organised an informative and inspiring visit to the firm that was founded in 1849.

In the ensuing one hundred sixty plus years , Mazzucchelli has created innovative, colourful and technical acetate marvels, that enables designers to broaden their approach to eyewear, and to explore and expand unlimited potential in frames. Creating acetate is a complex process that involves many intricate steps.  The knowledge, skill, and experience of enlightened craftsmen have passed down their unique talents from generation to generation. The careful blending of creative artisans and sophisticated equipment produces astounding results.

Even though Mazzucchelli has the latest state-of-the-art machinery, it still utilizes machines that were built in 1884. Painstaking and delicate steps are involved in acetate creations, and employees must complete an intensive training period. In addition, production requires special skill sets including mental agility, patience, and experience in order to ensure the colour and high quality expected from Mazzucchelli. The company takes particular care that the employees are safe and protected during these processing operations – and takes great satisfaction in knowing that the staff is passionate and knowledgeable about what they do.

Just as fabric companies follow fashion influences, Mazzucchelli has a keen eye on the trends, and develops 6000-8000 new colours every year, seventy percent of which are custom made. Designers often remark on the “warmth, beauty, smoothness and depth” of Mazzucchelli acetate, and it is one of the many reasons that they create frames in this material. Oliviero Zanon at Res/Rei enjoys scouring the Mazzucchelli archives to find vintage acetates in which to develop his collection. Zanon once remarked that one of the reasons he started to create eyewear, is “because I wanted a more human experience. You interact with all the people involved from the manufacturer of the materials, to the clients…it is quite amazing.”

What is also amazing is the continuity of craftsmanship that begins with Mazzucchelli, and continues through to the eyewear designers – harmonious creations made by people who really care. www.mazzucchelli1849.it Res/Rei will be at SILMO 25-28th September www.resrei.com www.silmoparis.com  JG Top Photo: Bach and Mozart from The Musicians Collection by Res/Rei in Mazzucchelli Acetate