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The Rolf Universe

A Visit to Rolf Spectacles in the Tyrol

26th February 2014 From the first moment I met members of the Rolf team in Paris nearly five years ago, I was intrigued with these unconventional designers. This was their first show, and their “raison d’être” was to present a wooden frame. But….not just any wooden frame. this was a design with superb, beautifully sculpted craftsmanship, extremely professional, and it fit like a dream. The Rolf team (founders Roland Wolf, his partner Marija Lljazovic, her brother Martin, and Christian Wolf) had spent three years perfecting their perception of an elegant wooden frame, in the basement home of Roland and Christian’s father. Others were captivated too – Rolf Spectacles immediately won a Silmo d’Or, and people were intrigued with the beauty and construction of the design.

Discovering more of their unusual approach to eyewear over the years became evermore fascinating. With great anticipation I looked forward to visiting their headquarters in The Tyrol in Austria. Rolf had successfully emerged from the basement gathering international clients and more awards, to become an important player on the global eyewear scene. Nestled in the mountains, the outside of the sprawling Rolf structure looks like many commercial sites; however, enter the building, and a new universe unfolds – the Rolf World of amazing eyewear. The office dogs Jeremy and Lola add to the overall cosiness and casualness of the premises. However, behind this carefree ambience, is a team of extremely dedicated and hardworking people, committed to making superior handcrafted frames. There is a delightful camaraderie among the staff, and a purposeful atmosphere in the air.

 

Elegant Authenticity - oak and maple frames by ROLF
Elegant Authenticity – oak and maple frames by ROLF

Meticulous attention to detail is evident in the creation of each frame. The gluing room is acclimatized; sanding is done to perfection; and the quality control is evident with each frame microchipped so it can be monitored if necessary. Employees are trained over a period of several months to develop the skills and concentration that are required in producing the frames. The Rolf team makes most of the tools themselves used in creating the frames, while even humble instruments like tweezers also play an important role in the final product.

Mary Lljazovic is a construction engineer, which has served her well in developing the frames. “When we started making the frames, we thought we would stay in the cellar,” says Mary, “as we   didn’t know what the reaction of the market would be. When the business began to grow, we had temporary offices: but it’s necessary to have enough space to build a structure, and work on research and development. We did it all, so we know what is involved. It used to be organised chaos, but now we are more structured.”

 

Tools of the Trade at Rolf Spectacles
Tools of the Trade at Rolf Spectacles

Nature and conservation are vital ingredients in everything Rolf pursues. Nothing goes to waste in the Rolf environment; a purpose is found for everything. “We like to influence people in a positive way,” says Bernie Wolf, who joined the family business as sales director, “and travelling so much I see the pollution in places like China. We are lucky to live in a country like Austria where people look after things.” Collecting and restoring old cars is a Rolf hobby. “We love classic cars,” Mary explains, “and every frame is inspired by a vintage car, including the technical features and design. There can be a lot of stress, but it would be boring if everything worked well all the time!” she says with a laugh.

“To break the stress, I take time with the horses and the dogs; think about the frames, and then it comes naturally. The frames are our passion, our love. We want to present wood in a new way; and it took almost three years to get the frames the way we wanted. The Rolf customer is between 18 and 85 years of age. We have a broad spectrum, so it is proof that the collection is well designed.”

 

Nature's Bounty - Handcrafted Stone by Rolf Spectacles
Nature’s Bounty – Handcrafted Stone by Rolf Spectacles

To the original wood designs, Rolf has added incredible frames in stone. The Rolf legend continues to grow and expand. Roland Wolf says: “I’m a crazy guy; I like to try new things and it’s fun to experiment. You know, I can do the glasses, but I still don’t know how to work a cell phone!” www.rolf-spectacles.com JG

Silhouette and Felder Felder

Felder Felder Creates Bespoke Frames for Catwalk Show

24th February 2014 The fashion designers Daniela and Annette Felder bring eyewear chic to their Autumn/Winter 2014 catwalk presentation with one-of-a-kind frames made by Silhouette. The Austrian eyewear company teamed with the London designers – who are twins – to feature modern, bold frames that exemplify the contemporary styling of Felder Felder. The frames in a delicious chocolate tone complemented the chic lines of a shiny suit, acented with brown insets on the sleeves (above). The Felder twin’s signature style is a favourite with women who like fashion with tradition, plus a racy twist, and clients include Gwyneth Paltrow and Rihanna.

Felder Felder for Silhouette
Felder Felder for Silhouette

Long and short lengths are in the collection – flowing coats and short, swingy dresses – the above worn with the Silhouette frame in a luscious Bordeaux tone.

 

Chic and sleek by Felder Felder / Silhouette
Chic and sleek by Felder Felder for Silhouette

The Silhouette frame unites the spirit of retro and modern concepts – lightweight, lots of expression, and elegantly crafted – like the stunning fashion collections from Felder Felder. www.silhouette.com www.felderfelder.com JG

Designing for a Fashion Icon

Rigards Creates Custom Frames for Diane Pernet

21st February 2014 The American-born, Paris-based fashion designer, writer and film maker Diane Pernet is recognised at fashion events in her signature attire and dark shades. When Ti Kwa was in Paris, she visited the Rigards showroom, and it was the start of an intriguing project to create a special frame for the fashion luminary. “Diane’s signature has always been an oversized cat’s eye frame, and right from the beginning, it was a challenge to handcraft such an unusual shape and size,” says creative director Ti Kwa, “And we sketched more than ten different designs. She narrowed it down to two, before deciding on the final one. Through the designing process, we were inspired by Diane’s incredible endurance and her continuous journey in the world of fashion. Hence we decided to go with a fluid front like the mobius loop to signify movement – a never ending, constant pace.”

 

Customized Sunglasses by Rigards for Diane Pernet
Customized Sunglasses by Rigards for Diane Pernet

Last month Ti Kwa presented Diane with the final version of her customized frame. At the same time, Rigards unveiled their new design RG0057 (top photo), worn by Jean-Marc Virard, Rigards marketing director, and Diane is wearing her one-of-a-kind customized Rigards. “We look forward to more collaborations such as this, as it brings diversity and quite of bit of fun as well,” says Ti Kwa. For more information on innovative frames by Rigards, visit www.rigards.com JG

Hapter – A Dream Becomes a Design

Military Goggle with Nostalgia and Romanticism

19th February 2014 A mountain climbing expedition by Italian designers Eric Balzan and Mirko Forti led to the discovery of glacier military goggles from WWII, that they found on a summit within the Dolomite mountains. A creative concept was born, and the duo founded Hapter in January 2013 with an expressive collection of eyewear, crafted from  beautiful Cerruti 1881 fabrics. Now Balzan and Forti have created a replica of the heirloom goggles  – MG  Military Goggle.

MG - Military Google by Hapter creators Eric Balzan and Mirko Forti
MG – Military Google by Hapter creators Eric Balzan and Mirko Forti

The design unites a meticulous technological system with artisanal handcrafted materials. The result is a stunning piece with a special fusion of industrial-grade surgical steel, and an 18 micron superfine Merino wool in military green. The material is inspired by a Cerruti Woolen Mills fabric, masterfully woven from the finest wools in Queensland Australia. Hapter respects history, and the design is a tribute to an echo of the past, coupled with 21st century innovation. www.hapter.it JG

Trend watch: the allure of purple

16th February 2014 Purple is one of my personal favourites in eyewear. It is – perhaps unexpectedly – easy-to-wear, and it gives a lift to a minimal classic shape. Vanni’s choice of purple for Hydra V8444, a combination metal/acetate design with modified butterfly shape, is a good reflection of the colour’s all-round allure; worn by Doris Zaccone, presenter of “Capital in the world” (Radio Capital), Rome, where the Vanni Occhiali team was recently shooting, the colour is superbly eye-catching, but not overstated or in any way flash.

Vanni Hydra
Hydra by Vanni

The Hydra also benefits from large proportions, and from what we are seeing, this is a key trend in women’s eyewear through 2014. See more Vanni styles at www.vanniocchiali.com CN