Eyestylist

  | Eyestylist 5th December 2018

Minuscule masterpieces: Majestic artistry

From the 16th Century through to the mid-19th Century, portrait miniatures were symbols of love and devotion. People eagerly wore them as pendants around their necks, or imbedded in bracelets – and even worn as ornamental brooches. Napoleon never left home without his portrait miniature of Josephine; Marie-Antoinette’s first glimpse of the future Louis XVI was a portrait miniature of the Dauphin – a flattering portrayal as a svelte young man, and not the stout boy he really was; and in Verdi’s La Traviata, as Violetta dies of tuberculosis, she gives Alfredo her young lover, a miniature with her image to remember their doomed affair. Nowadays discerning collectors seek these diminutive pedigree keepsakes. Connoisseur Thierry Jaegy – Jaegy-Theoleyre Gallery – shares his expertise, love and enthusiasm for Portrait Miniatures.(Above image: Portrait of a Lady by François Dumont which is in the Tansey Foundation Collection in Celle, Germany. Photo courtesy of Thierry Jaegy with kind permission of the Tansey Foundation)

Portrait Miniature painted by Edmé Rousseau 1846

How did you become inspired and excited about Portrait Miniatures? TJ: I discovered portrait miniatures when I was twenty years old in a “brocante” (antique show) in the small village of Sancerre in the Loire Valley. It was a miniature signed by Carteaux P.D.R (peintre du Roi – painter to the king), lost and forgotten on a dusty shelf. I was fascinated by the life in this very small portrait. The sitter seems to be waiting for me for many centuries, protected under this small fragile glass, ignored by everyone. How did this piece of art come from Versailles to be here, in the countryside, abandoned? In fact, the art of portrait miniatures is totally forgotten by French people; it’s different in England. I have great pleasure to participate with this art: to discover, reveal them, and share them. Laurent and I became passionate collectors during the past twenty years, and we made this passion our life ten years ago by starting the very first web gallery dedicated exclusively to this Art: The Gallery jaegy-theoleyre.fr

Portrait Miniature by Francois Meuret

What Portrait Miniaturists do you believe are the most significant from the 18th and 19th Centuries? It is very difficult to choose when there were so many great artists everywhere in Europe. Difficult but not too much…as one of them touches my heart above all: this artist is Francois Dumont (Top image). Even if he is not regular in the quality of portraits, he made (but he painted so many that I pardon him), he created real masterpieces with an inimitable look that Dumont gives to his sitters eyes. A seduction, a dialogue between the portraiture and the portraitist, with a particular charm that touches me so much. In French, we have an expression about this way to look with seduction in the eyes: to have a “oeil de velours” (velvet eyes). Dumont was the only one to give his models this “oeil de velours” – an additional feeling of happiness.

Portrait Miniature by British artist John Smart

Twenty-five years ago, there were International sales of Portrait Miniatures. Now there are virtually none. What has happened to the market? The age of collectors has changed: their buying habits changed too. The sales you talk about were only two times per year. Nowadays, nobody wants to wait so long for pleasure. With the Internet, collectors how have the possibility to access what they like immediately, when they want, night and day. This is the role of web galleries like e-commerce in general.

Thierry Jaegy – Portrait Miniature Connoisseur and Consultant

Are SnapChat and Instagram the 21st Century version of Portrait Miniatures? I don’t think so. Instagram, Snapchat…this is instantaneously forgotten as soon as it is published…it’s so far from the art of Portrait Miniatures. In our modern life, what has replaced Portrait Miniatures – for me – is our smartphones! We keep our pictures inside it, the small portraits of the ones we love, keep them in our pockets, to see them as soon as we need to – and this is exactly the role that Portrait Miniatures had.

Laurent Theoleyre with a selection of Portrait Miniatures

Could you please give a brief profile of the Portrait Miniature collector?  In my opinion, the time when collecting portrait miniatures was reserved for a small select group of millionaires is finished. Now it appears that collectors are younger, curious and connected…Most often rich, but not exclusively. If the last generation bought star artists like Hall, Sicardy, Smart and Isabey…the new generation discovered that we can find true little masterpieces in unsigned portrait miniatures, or in pieces signed by less famous artists. But there are also investors who discovered this precious art; easy to preserve and to travel with, whose rating grows. www.jaegy-theoleyre.fr JG

 

 

  | Eyestylist 5th December 2018

Paul Smith x Cutler and Gross: coming soon

Paul Smith and Cutler and Gross are to join forces as eyewear partners, with a first collection launch planned for March 2019. The British eyewear brand will utilise its traditional production expertise that spans almost 50 years to create Paul Smith eyewear and sunglasses with a luxurious finesse in the metal and acetate materials and subtle design details that will tie in with the fashion designer’s colours and tailoring. Marie Wilkinson, long serving Design Director for the London eyewear brand will oversee the creation and development of the frames in collaboration with Smith’s design experts.

In a statement, Paul Smith explained: “I’ve always had enormous admiration for Cutler and Gross. Before we sadly lost him, Tony Gross was a personal friend of mine. The attention to detail and expertise that Tony practiced is still absolutely central to the work the company are doing today. I’m delighted to be collaborating with Cutler and Gross and look forward to an exciting and creative future.”

The frames, which will feature high quality Dalloz sun lenses, will be on show to retailers at Mido Milan – the Italian trade fair – in February. They will then be available from Paul Smith and Cutler and Gross outlets and a selection of premium stores and opticians globally. For more details about Cutler and Gross visit www.cutlerandgross.com CN

  | Eyestylist 3rd December 2018

LINDBERG Precious: Refined elegance

LINDBERG Precious embellishes winter festivities with the opulence and beauty of their handcrafted eyewear. The award-winning Danish label – who just received the German Design Award for 2019 in the Lifestyle and Fashion Category – celebrates this wonderful season with frame designs in 18 carat gold with splendid diamond highlights.(Above image: 18 carat solid rose gold with a 0.33 carat baguette cut pink diamond, and a 0.38 carat baguette cut purplish pink diamond) 

LINDBERG Precious 18 carat gold design with pink diamond.

The frames exude masterful engineering with silhouettes that are exquisitely shaped to the contours of the face. Pink is fashion’s energetic and spirited colour of the season, and LINDBERG extols its virtues with the highest quality diamonds in alluring pink – as well as exclusive options in black, and raw uncut, clear diamond accents.

Merry and bright: shimmering diamonds by LINDBERG Precious

With minimalist construction, the frames are featherweight, yet durable, and each frame is individually crafted. The distinguished collection includes designs for men and women.

LINDBERG Precious tiny treasures: sparkling pink diamonds

Treat yourself this holiday season, and just as importantly – your eyes – to the dramatic brilliance of a LINDBERG Precious design – a gift that truly keeps on giving – with its timeless, sophisticated beauty. www.lindberg.com JG

 

 

  | Eyestylist 3rd December 2018

Re Belle 14 by Plein Les Mirettes

Plein Les Mirettes’ Christophe Morcamp combines the creative eye of a couture designer with an astute focus on comfort and ease of wear in a frame design. The stunning new acetate model Re Belle 14 by this exotic little French label offers a wearable statement shape, gently cut into on either side of the front to add to its vibrant character. The colour palette has an unusual vertical fade effect, playing with chic tones “side by side” for a result that is both surprising technically and flattering when worn.

Plein Les Mirettes produces its women’s eyewear designs in a highly regarded traditional spectacle-making factory in Normandy, northern France. The elegant materials come from Mazzucchelli, the Italian leader in acetate production. Find the latest designs at www.plein-les-mirettes.fr CN

  | Eyestylist 30th November 2018

Karmoie: a hand-finished twist

Norwegian independent eyewear duo, Kirsten and Lars Iversen have worked on their timeless Karmoie designs with a hand-polishing technique that produces a unique matt finish on the exclusive acetate designs. Model Totem offers an example of how the artisan polishing work gives an exquisitely subtle look to the eco-friendly M49 material, which immediately stands apart from ordinary mass-produced acetates, both in the delicate texture and coloration.

Model Totem in Spruce matt by Karmoie

Karmoie frames are understated, modern classics. “We aim to create a truly beautiful, lasting piece for you to cherish and wear with pride,” say the founders, who continue their collaboration with Positive Luxury, the website which highlights ethical fashion brands and their commitment towards “positive actions” and sustainability. Find the full sun and optical collection by the Norwegian label and find out about this unique label at www.karmoie.com CN