Eyestylist

| Eyestylist 1st July 2014

Grant Krajecki – Grey Ant

Grey Ant’s designer Grant Krajecki talks to Eyestylist.com as six new Grey Ant sunglasses hit the stores. Based in NYC, Grey Ant is a trendsetting label that manufactures its sunglass designs in limited quantities. Grey Ant started out as a clothing label to which eyewear was added and eventually took over as a result of their resounding success.

What is your background? I have a background in fashion and costume. In 2006 I thought eyewear would be a good addition to our collection but had no idea things would end up this way. I designed two frames at the time – one being the ‘Status’ frame. It was a mash up of 1950’s and 1970’s Elton John’esque elements which still remains our most sought after model.

When did you launch Grey Ant? We launched in 1998. Natalie Levy became by business partner in 2004.

Like us you are obsessed with quality and individuality. Please comment and explain about the processes you use to make your frames.
Sometimes colors can inspire my designs and sometimes they are chosen afterwards. Once I send the factories the initial specs there are usually a few revisions before we nail it. We work with top class factories in Japan, Italy and China. We use Carl Zeiss lenses from Germany.

Grey Ant
Model Embassy by Grey Ant / Photo by Josh Wool
Bowtie by Grey Ant
Model Bowtie by Grey Ant / Photo by Josh Wool

We see you as young innovators in the world of eyewear, setting creative standards. Please expand on your direction and hopes/desires for the next years? I feel the men’s fashion market in particular has made some great leaps forward in what is acceptable in shapes and colors. We’re in a very eccentric state right now that hasn’t been seen since the early 80’s. As much as there’s a growing market for the turn of the century “vintage” aesthetic the avante garde has fueled itself into the unwearable. I love both of these views and choose to subtly unite these two worlds in my designs.  We plan on expanding our optical frames in the near future.

Is expansion the aim or does off the grid mean “hard to find”, unique and very small scale.
Since the market trickles down and not up we like to remain a very exclusive brand for now. I feel our brand speaks to a customer that understands and appreciates a delicate balance of classic and experimental. Kind of like Coltrane meets Joy Division.

Grey Ant
Public Light by Grey Ant
Incidental Habit by Grey Ant
Incidental Habit by Grey Ant

Are you an NYC label through and through or does your philosophy go beyond that? I think there’s a strong New York ingredient in Grey Ant which combines the uptown, downtown and underground elements.

Explain your collaborative work and video projects. We have just joined forces with Jeaneen Lund on a new video short which will be finished very soon. She has captured a very New York street scenario involving real life and fantasy with the backdrop of original music from Terminal Twilight. We are also very excited about working exclusively with Helmut Lang as their sole eyewear brand for their retail stores.
I’ve always admired the Helmut Lang brand since the early 90’s and would never have foreseen this opportunity to work with them. I have also been working with our Japanese factory for almost a year originating an exclusive component for our new collection. They will premier this September in our Paris showroom Paper Mache Tiger and Silmo. www.greyant.com

| Eyestylist 1st July 2014

Claudia

Res/Rei

Italian elements of history, art, literature and centuries of artisan craftsmanship merge creatively in Res/Rei frames. Claudia is a powerful eyewear interpretation in acetate and metal. The upper part of the frame is sculpted with smooth flow in tortoiseshell acetate, and contrasted with fine metal in soft turquoise. Designer Oliviero Zanon creates eyewear with distinctive poignancy. www.resrei.com JG

| Eyestylist 1st July 2014

Independent Innovators

L.G.R. Sunglasses Rome, Italy

1st July 2014 Beautiful shapes, superior craftsmanship, and exquisite details keynote the L.G.R. collection. Luca Gnecchi Ruscone’s instinct for original eyewear is inherited from his beloved grandfather, and his fascination with Africa. The Rome based designer expresses flair, individuality and style in his creative collections. This summer, mirrored lenses are making a big splash in sunglasses, as the models in the top photo show as they enjoy outdoor adventures.  Left, Keren –  with green mirrored polarized lenses, and right – Aswan –  with stunning red mirrored polarized lenses.

 

Tripoli by LGR
Tripoli by L.G.R. Sunglasses

L.G.R. sunglasses for men feature strong, bold shapes  that include Tripoli with polarized vermillion lenses.

LGR - Sun Specialists
L.G.R. – Sun Specialists

Song (above) is a dramatic design in Havana 02 with Zeiss Organic lenses. Unique metal detailing on the brow line and nose piece accents the elegant acetate. www.lgr-sunglasses.com JG

Photo: Top photo by vera Colombo  Centre image by Fay Baldwin Bottom photo by Daniele Ratti, taken in Asmara, Eritrea

 

 

 

| Eyestylist 1st July 2014

Welcome Aboard!

History of Travel Bags in Amsterdam

1st July 2014 How times change! An original exhibition at the charming canal-side Tassen Museum in Amsterdam shows the history of travel and development of suitcases from 1850 to the present. Excursions in the early days relied on gigantic trunks that were the norm for travel by coach and ship, as well as luxurious luggage sets, and extravagant dressing cases containing silver brushes and crystal vials. Travel during the 19th Century was uncomfortable and dangerous; for that reason trunks had to be weather proof and sturdy, so that they could be tied to the top or back of a coach.

 

Wool and Beaded Travel Bag Berlin, Germany  Mid-19th Century
Wool and Beaded Travel Bag Berlin, Germany Mid-19th Century

The invention of the steam engine changed not only how people lived, but how they travelled. It was then possible to cover much longer distances by steam train or ship. The carpet bag, which could also serve as a rug in unheated train compartments, was popular for train travel during the 19th Century. Later came the use of woolen railway bags, decorated with depictions of flowers or animals. For luxurious cruises, cabin trunks (top photo: Wardrobe Trunk Belber Trunk & Bag Co. Philadephia c. 1930)  were designed for extensive wardrobes with drawers for shoes and clothing hooks for coats, dresses or suits.

Samsonite Luggage Trio 1950's
Samsonite Luggage Trio 1950’s

 

How people travelled and the types of bags used changed dramatically during the 1970’s when air travel became more affordable. Mass tourism put different demands on suitcases and travel bags; luggage became smaller, lighter and was equipped with wheels. And now creating luggage that accommodates one’s belongings that fit into an airplane’s overhead locker is the latest challenge.

Welcome Aboard is a delightful exhibition that traces the history of suitcases and travel bags, reflecting the mobility and speed of the changing times. The exhibition continues through 31 August 2014. www.tassenmuseum.nl JG

| Eyestylist 1st July 2014

Boudoir Venice

Enchanting Venetian Eyewear Boutique

1st July 2014 Venice is a fascinating oasis of beauty, history, art, music and eyewear delights! On a recent visit, I had the great pleasure to discover Boudoir – an amazingly chic little boutique with stunning eyewear, plus accesrsories and exquisite perfumes. Proprietor Alessandro De Lorenzo enthuses an ingrained ardour for eyewear, and has assembled a collection of inventive eyewear creators. His handpicked selections include Hapter, Lindberg and Lindberg Precious, Oliver Goldsmith and Claire Goldsmith, and Flippan’Look, among others. There are also capsule eyewear collections by Cesare Cunaccia and Oscar Mamooi. Perfumes by Cristopher Brosious and Meo Fusciuni, and home scents by Villa Buti filter throughout the boutique and create a wonderful ambience. De Lorenzo and his partner devised the original interior, which is an eclectic and charming mix of unusual furniture; beautiful mirrors, flowers and trees. All very natural with a subtle magic – just like Venice!

Alessandro De Lorenzo Boudoir Venice
Alessandro De Lorenzo, Boudoir Venice

De Lorenzo observes differences with an optical boutique located in La Serenissimia – Venice’s formal name. “Venice, with less that 6000 residents, isn’t a real city,” he says, “So I deal mostly with tourists, especially from America and other English speaking countries. People from abroad have a more contemporary approach when they choose accessories like glasses. Venice used to be a city and a kind of “Mecca” for special shopping. My goal is to give my contribution to go back to this. I want people to say ‘in Venice, you can really find cool glasses.’ Having the chance to do my work in such a beautiful place pays back every effort. Plus having clients from so many different countries is a bit like travelling myself…”

Boudoir Interior - Stylish and Charming
Boudoir Interior – Stylish and Charming

The boutique is easily reached from San Marco by bobbing along on a Vaporetto and alighting at Ca’Rezzonico, then it’s a short walk to Calle Lunga S. Barnabas, where the eyewear and accessories are incredibly tempting. Eyewear from Boudoir will retain long lasting Venetian memories. www.boudoir.venice.it JG

Photo of Alessandro De Lorenzo exclusively for Eyestylist by Travelonics, LLC